I watched your entire video. No idea why, you just had to remove one pin and insert one screw. And yet I sat here and watched half an hour of some dude forgetting which words he wanted to say. It's called RECOIL btw. Nice rifle.
Wow thats exactly my next project. My 1937 is waiting for that mount. Sad that we could not buy it in germ. Can you give me the exact product name and where to order?
Did you get the mount on your rifle? I just had one fixed on my 1937. I went for the ultra low profile gen 3 version. Looking forward to test it on the range.
I feel the same way about my ugly duckling rc k98k. Serial numbers matching is amazing but the fact mine isn't to me just means the Russians took the best pieces from the others and the accuracy it has shows that and it's my first collection piece
Es handelt sich um ein Exportmodell. Wappen von Königshäusern etc. der Importländer wurden damals oft auf der Systemhülse eingraviert. Meiner z.B. trägt das Zeichen des ehem. portugiesischen Königshauses.
Danke für dein Video, wenn auch ich erst jetzt darüber gestolpert bin. Ich habe mir diese Low Profile NDT Montage ebenfalls bestellt, mit genau der gleichen Intention wie du. Nur soll es bei mir das Kahles RD sein, aber ansonsten... ;) Habe ich es richtig verstanden, dass du mit dem Ergebnis nur eingeschränkt zufrieden bist? Neigt die Montage wirklich dazu sich zu lockern? Ein Erfahrungsaustausch wäre super, da ich genau dies leider bei der 8x57 befürchtet habe. Gruß
Christian Kugler Hier geht es leider um kleinste Toleranzen und ich vermute je nach Herkunft/Hersteller/Baujahr wird es K98 geben bei denen es besser passt und welche bei denen es minimales Spiel gibt. Bei mir hatte die Schraube vorne (richtung Mündung) leichtes Spiel. Durch festes Anziehen kann man das erstmal eliminieren aber das lockert sich wieder. Mein Tipp daher: sehr wachsam sein was dieses Problem betrifft und notfalls die Montage unterfüttern mit etwas Hülsen-Messing oder so.
Charel Peffer So far my experience with the mount is very mixed. The 8x57is cartridge has significant recoil and the screw to fix the front of the rail can start to wiggle which makes the whole mount unstable. I ended up putting a small strip of case brass between the mount and the barrel so it is basically canted in place and my result are better since. Make sure you try and wiggle the mounted optic after every 5-10 shots really quick and see if any play has developed.
@@GunWodan thank you very much for the reply, i will consider that when buying the mount for an upcoming project. Have you tried putting something like loctite or zwei Komponenten klebstoff, for lack of a better term, on the screws to fix them in place?
Charel Peffer One thing I wanted to avoid was having to permanently glue the mount to the rifle. Adding loctite to the screw might make sense though I am not sure you might regret that should the mount ever start to wiggle, tightening that screw further will be a pain.
@@GunWodan I am not a gunsmith, but I draw free body diagrams in my sleep. Think about which direction the gun recoils; parallel to the barrel. The screws all point perpendicular to this, which creates friction in the direction you need it. The steel-to-steel coeffecient of friction is extremely low, often as low as 0.1. So while you might get incredible clamping force from those screws, the low coefficient of friction means the resulting friction force is probably less than the force of the recoiling rifle. You need more friction. f you are still messing with it, I would rough up the bottom of the rail with some sandpaper then put a two part epoxy between the rail and the leaf sight base. Tighten the screws and let it dry. Then tighten the screws a tiny bit more (epoxy slightly shrinks when it dries). Steel-to-epoxy has a coeffecent of friction of 0.2 to 0.4 which means 2 to 4 times the friction, and it won't be canted any more. And if it doesn't work out, the epoxy will come off easily. In the mean time if the thought of expoxy goo doesn't sound good, you might try replacing your brass shim with a piece of aluminum. Brass is not much higher in friction than steel (its used for sleeve bearings for a reason), but steel-to-aluminum will get you to 0.3 which triples your friction.
The Daily Pathé *sigh* it‘s very hard to find ranges that go beyond 100m in Germany. There‘s a handful of 300m ranges and beyond that, I‘d have to drive for 500km and be lucky enough to book a slot. So I won‘t be able to directly answer your question. I can tell you however, that even at 100m I am having issues maintaining zero with a scope mounted on this rail when shooting full power 8mm Mauser loads. The scope I mounted is a rather light Vortex „Scout“ scope ... but the recoil is substantial and I keep getting small amounts of play in the mount that ruin my zero...
@@GunWodan jesus so youd have to get the damn thing screwed on with a sixe rail. Because I recently fired a 98 with a scopw from the second world war and the zero was pretty damn good to about 1000 meters after that it had problems. And I know i can get alot more out of the rifle i know i can but what extent would i have to go to is my question.
The Daily Pathé The original WW2 scope mounting requires drilling into the receiver if I‘m not mistaken. The K98s are very common around here - in Germany lol - so I‘ve seen dozens of mounting options that have developed over the years. A lot of them were also converted to hunting rifles with scope bases soldered to the receiver - unfortunately with proprietary mounts that make it nearly impossible to replace the scope. I am considering putting the iron sights back on just to see whether the rifle or the scope caused the bad grouping ...
I watched your entire video.
No idea why, you just had to remove one pin and insert one screw. And yet I sat here and watched half an hour of some dude forgetting which words he wanted to say.
It's called RECOIL btw.
Nice rifle.
Beautiful video. Thank you for this informative demonstration. Happy hunting!
Great job, any video of zeroing, what you mean about that sight, how you seen through that, any experience?
Can you tell us about ease of shooting, point of aim, what MOA the dot was and how accurately it shoots. Thanks.
Sorry for the late reply! Honestly never found a REALLY good load for that rifle. The dot is 3 MOA and so is the rifle ;)
Wow thats exactly my next project.
My 1937 is waiting for that mount. Sad that we could not buy it in germ.
Can you give me the exact product name and where to order?
The exact product name is in the video title and I ordered it direcly from Canada from the manufacturer
@@GunWodan is that a 1937 portuguese export? I got one of those too. Am looking to put a red dot on it!
Did you get the mount on your rifle? I just had one fixed on my 1937. I went for the ultra low profile gen 3 version. Looking forward to test it on the range.
I feel the same way about my ugly duckling rc k98k. Serial numbers matching is amazing but the fact mine isn't to me just means the Russians took the best pieces from the others and the accuracy it has shows that and it's my first collection piece
The K98 I actually shoot is also a „best-of“ model ;)
Hallo, wo bekomme ich diese schiene her? Habe auch eine k98 von 1944.
Habe ich damals aus Kanada bestellt - den Hersteller gibt es noch
Danke..
What is the symbol on top of the chamber? That shield of arms?
Afaik that‘s from Portugal
@@GunWodan I thought so..... I used a Mauser just like your's and I'm thinking about to by one
Hallo Wodan, ich besitze fast den gleichen K98k nur meiner ist bj 1941. kannst du mir sagen wofür die Gravur über dem Patronenlager steht ?
Dazu kann ich leider keine qualifizierte Aussage machen - kenne mich damit einfach nicht aus.
Es handelt sich um ein Exportmodell. Wappen von Königshäusern etc. der Importländer wurden damals oft auf der Systemhülse eingraviert. Meiner z.B. trägt das Zeichen des ehem. portugiesischen Königshauses.
Wo hast du das bestellt Mit freundlichen Grüßen danke für die Film Anleitung
Direkt beim Hersteller in Kanada. Bad Ace Tactical
@@GunWodan danke
What is the name of this mounting
plate ?
www.badacetactical.com/collections/ndt-mount-for-mausers/products/best-mauser-k98k-scout-mount
Where did you purchase the mount (in germany?)
I ordered it from Canada. Shipping and importing wasn't a big deal.
Danke für dein Video, wenn auch ich erst jetzt darüber gestolpert bin.
Ich habe mir diese Low Profile NDT Montage ebenfalls bestellt, mit genau der gleichen Intention wie du. Nur soll es bei mir das Kahles RD sein, aber ansonsten... ;)
Habe ich es richtig verstanden, dass du mit dem Ergebnis nur eingeschränkt zufrieden bist?
Neigt die Montage wirklich dazu sich zu lockern?
Ein Erfahrungsaustausch wäre super, da ich genau dies leider bei der 8x57 befürchtet habe.
Gruß
Christian Kugler Hier geht es leider um kleinste Toleranzen und ich vermute je nach Herkunft/Hersteller/Baujahr wird es K98 geben bei denen es besser passt und welche bei denen es minimales Spiel gibt. Bei mir hatte die Schraube vorne (richtung Mündung) leichtes Spiel. Durch festes Anziehen kann man das erstmal eliminieren aber das lockert sich wieder. Mein Tipp daher: sehr wachsam sein was dieses Problem betrifft und notfalls die Montage unterfüttern mit etwas Hülsen-Messing oder so.
@@GunWodan Es gibt noch eine Weaver Montage von S&K, kann man dazu aussagen tätigen?
Liebe Grüße!
Hello, I love watching your videos. My friend has a spanish rifle. I want to buy binoculars. Thank you in advance for gifting it to my friend.
Hättest du nenn Link zum Produkt. Finde hier nur die Seiten in Übersee.
Habe den Adapter selbst direkt aus Kanada bezogen 😪
How was the performance of the mount? Did you like it?
Charel Peffer So far my experience with the mount is very mixed. The 8x57is cartridge has significant recoil and the screw to fix the front of the rail can start to wiggle which makes the whole mount unstable. I ended up putting a small strip of case brass between the mount and the barrel so it is basically canted in place and my result are better since. Make sure you try and wiggle the mounted optic after every 5-10 shots really quick and see if any play has developed.
@@GunWodan thank you very much for the reply, i will consider that when buying the mount for an upcoming project. Have you tried putting something like loctite or zwei Komponenten klebstoff, for lack of a better term, on the screws to fix them in place?
Charel Peffer One thing I wanted to avoid was having to permanently glue the mount to the rifle. Adding loctite to the screw might make sense though I am not sure you might regret that should the mount ever start to wiggle, tightening that screw further will be a pain.
@@GunWodan I am not a gunsmith, but I draw free body diagrams in my sleep. Think about which direction the gun recoils; parallel to the barrel. The screws all point perpendicular to this, which creates friction in the direction you need it. The steel-to-steel coeffecient of friction is extremely low, often as low as 0.1. So while you might get incredible clamping force from those screws, the low coefficient of friction means the resulting friction force is probably less than the force of the recoiling rifle. You need more friction.
f you are still messing with it, I would rough up the bottom of the rail with some sandpaper then put a two part epoxy between the rail and the leaf sight base. Tighten the screws and let it dry. Then tighten the screws a tiny bit more (epoxy slightly shrinks when it dries). Steel-to-epoxy has a coeffecent of friction of 0.2 to 0.4 which means 2 to 4 times the friction, and it won't be canted any more. And if it doesn't work out, the epoxy will come off easily.
In the mean time if the thought of expoxy goo doesn't sound good, you might try replacing your brass shim with a piece of aluminum. Brass is not much higher in friction than steel (its used for sleeve bearings for a reason), but steel-to-aluminum will get you to 0.3 which triples your friction.
Whats the absolute maximum range you can get of a kar98k with the best scope
The Daily Pathé *sigh* it‘s very hard to find ranges that go beyond 100m in Germany. There‘s a handful of 300m ranges and beyond that, I‘d have to drive for 500km and be lucky enough to book a slot.
So I won‘t be able to directly answer your question. I can tell you however, that even at 100m I am having issues maintaining zero with a scope mounted on this rail when shooting full power 8mm Mauser loads. The scope I mounted is a rather light Vortex „Scout“ scope ... but the recoil is substantial and I keep getting small amounts of play in the mount that ruin my zero...
@@GunWodan jesus so youd have to get the damn thing screwed on with a sixe rail. Because I recently fired a 98 with a scopw from the second world war and the zero was pretty damn good to about 1000 meters after that it had problems. And I know i can get alot more out of the rifle i know i can but what extent would i have to go to is my question.
The Daily Pathé The original WW2 scope mounting requires drilling into the receiver if I‘m not mistaken. The K98s are very common around here - in Germany lol - so I‘ve seen dozens of mounting options that have developed over the years. A lot of them were also converted to hunting rifles with scope bases soldered to the receiver - unfortunately with proprietary mounts that make it nearly impossible to replace the scope. I am considering putting the iron sights back on just to see whether the rifle or the scope caused the bad grouping ...
@@bakist5540👍
Hallo. Bist Österreicher oder aus DE? LG Augustin
Lebe in Deutschland :)
Shoot and tell us it’s good 👍🏻
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