I'm now seeing RUclips channels with excessive advertising, abusive really, being relentless nearly every minute! RUclips is about over for me. These abusive ads are so distracting from enjoying the channels videoed content. Lately been giving a thumbs down on channels having abusive relentless advertising as well as just leaving before the end of the video. I wonder if this is the beginning to the end of RUclips's rane at the top, I think so! Love your channel but hate all these ads. Seeing a child in an ad choking because he can't breath every minute or so isn't what I want to see. I come to my saved channels for enjoyment, not to feel bad after seeing some of these ads! Love seeing the progress you both are making on this wonderful historic boat.
Well then pay for RUclips premium or just understand that the advertisements help pay for the production of these videos that you watch for free. You have options but whining should not be one of them
Hi John, after your comment I have just been to check the advert placements in this video, and to my surprise there wasn't any adverts in the middle of this episode, stupid me for not setting any, and now we wont make any money as there were no adverts to make money from. So your comment doesn't make sense to me! Yes there was an ad at the very beginning, but none during the episode due to my error!! So I've basically put this video out for free! And it still gets complaints! I've now amended this so there is now 2 ads during this video. But if you want to watch ad free, you can pay for youtube premium or become a patreon. Unfortunately this project has to be funded somehow, otherwise there would be no videos on here for your enjoyment. We don't expect you to contribute in any way, but we would rather not have your view if your going to press the dislike button, as this is hurting the channel. All the effort we put into making these videos, the cost of the restoration, and the physical, mental and financial stress this puts on us, it would be nice to have our viewers support, and not people who come to complain and hit the dislike button.
I certainly agree with the comment John. We watch a lot of You Tube because we are so sickened by the abusive amount of advertising on our television here in the US. Believe it or not it is easily three times as much as in the UK. At our house we have banned purchasing any of the products advertised in the middle of our You Tube content and we further refuse to pay additional fees to avoid such aggressive advertising. You Tube is already a very profitable company and doesn't need to offend users with so many ads. But in the US greed is the only thing that matters. At any rate we love this channel and are amazed at the great skill and teamwork by this couple saving a unique watercraft from what rightfully should be a grim death. Cheers and thanks for saying what we all feel.
@@dfanta123crist5Complain to a RUclips Bot! That's like talking to the dead. What I want the host and others to know is this, RUclips treats subscribers one way and non subscribers another way, giving the unsubscribed a better viewing experience! The host pinned my comment for all to read, why? I'll tell you why, as the host of the channel he knows he can stop some advertising, however, RUclips can put ads up as they want, the host has very little to no say about that. So, why pin my comment? Either to have his subscribers comment negatively on my comment, leading them to believe something other than what is in the reply by the channels host to me. That being the settings were wrong, that money will not be generated from this latest video, that he had the settings wrong. This could be true, however, he leads others' to believe he controls the ads which isn't factual by stating he's perplexed do to the fact the settings were... This is now happening at other subscribed channels I visit daily, not just this channel. This is happening now for about a month. Can't even skip the ad, must watch full ads. What this tantamounts to is this, a fifteen minute video is now thirty minutes, being forced to watch informercials the other fifteen minutes in order to watch the channels content. Only certain subscribers, not all. The host will get a thumbs down from now on because of his effort to lead others to believe something that isn't factual. I'll visit with one of a dozen electronic devices to do just that. Too bad for the channel, this has a bigger picture here and may I say this, the host knows what side of his bread RUclips butters it. One reply states mindlessly to pay-up to be ad free, that RUclips pays the channel for the content. While true, that individual fails to recognize that it's the advertisers that pay for it. RUclips takes its share, then trickles a tiny portion down to the channels host. That's the cold hard truth! I say blank you to all those who think they know it all with responses that are simply intellectually. You know, like, pay-up, it has always been like this, everybody knows it's... I live in San Francisco, wasn't born yesterday and come in contact with software engineers, of which several are friends. I know how it all works. RUclips is pressuring subscribers of channels who visit them daily or..., to pay-up for ad free content or watch relentless informercials every minute or so during the video. Unsubscribed, let me open the door to show you a wonderful experience with only an ad or two that you have the choice to click-skip! 😮
never seen a couple work in such harmony before! - no doubt you have your arguments behind the scenes but you both seem to absolutely thrive working together to solve problems and its what makes you so endearing :)
Yet another fantastic and really interesting episode. As an engineer, I solve problems day to day, and to see you investigate issues and come up with solutions is really satisfying to watch. It’s been said many times before, but watching the two of you work so well together is what makes your channel so interesting. You really are an effective team. You thank us for donating, but we thank you for the amazing content in your vids. Well done❤
There's a man who knows what he's doing. Having a book is the most clever idea. When I was managing large construction jobs, I had one in my shirt pocket. When someone needed a problem solved, I'd write down what needed doing, who asked for it, when they asked for it, and when it needed doing by. Every day, I'd start at the top and work my way down, scratching off as they finished. No issue fell through the cracks or missed a deadline.
Out of the water jobs book is a good idea. You may want to index each job and somehow mark position in the book and on the boat. Plastic address labels with the index number written with a sharpie at all the locations will enable you to quantify the work and then check and confirm each job has been done. Sail Safe Guys, Ant & Cid.
I've heard of people posting signs by a printer or such saying it was voice command and watching people lose their minds. That pesky GoPro seems to be channeling that prank. Love this channel and the two of you.
Good work and lots of progress. I don't like the idea of fishing line between the laminates. When I laminated my frames I had plenty of squeeze out, but 15 years later the frames are still just fine. I used West epoxy thickened with their 403 microfibers.
Based on what I know about fiberglass, the more epoxy you squeeze out the better. Since the epoxy is only there to fill the gaps between the strands, if there are voids you're more likely to have it crack and delaminate
@@undissatisfied1557 They are not using fiberglass. They are laminating pieces of wood together with epoxy. When it comes to fiberglass, you want to get to approximately 50% resin by weight in a part. The exact amount varies a bit based on the specific fiberglass you are using. More than 50% by weight and you have a resin rich and comparatively brittle part. If you go much less than 50% you can generate a resin starved part.
Wll done. Its so intersting seeing how she was built. The upgrades that were done in the 80's. The way you work together to overcome issues. Another brilliant episode 😊
Simon what a wonderfully gifted practical woman you have. Gemma is such an asset to you and this project. I've never known a woman to be so keen to learn just about anything.. Love you both!
The copper nails in the bottom you can take a toilet paper roll center and cut it just long enough to come to ether the bottom of the washer or to the top and fill it with epoxy, that way it holds the copper nails and washers tight in place so they won't be accidentally hit and or loosened along with keeping them sealed, you can cut your wood to fit around them and to be replaceable and if you ever do need to replace them it will be easy to do so along with new wood.
No joke, it will be a novel if you can even manage to remember all the times you’ve already said, “we’ll get to that when we’re out of the water.” Great idea!😊
You thought that section was a continuation of the engine bearer and as such would provide longitudinal strength to the hull. Now you know it is a separate section you need to consider if it is still required. If a replacement tank is not going in there then what you build only needs to be strong enough to support the new sole (floor for non boaters). This probably also applies to the similar structures in the forward cabin.
You two guys - are amazing - nothing phases you - you just get on and do what needs to be done - Sarinda is in good hands!!! With you working in the fuel tanks/engine room areas its reminded me about you coming up with names for Sarinda's port and starboard engines - do you have names yet?? As it is a WW2 vessel with Kat engines, how about "Tom" and "Jerry"? a subtle connection to our world war two Tommies - and the other lot!
depending on the application and material details, I've found that scoring/ scratching/ gouging a bit on both surfaces helps keep glue in there, and when I pry it apart during testing it doesn't snap apart fairly cleanly, it destyroys the wood, indicating a better bond. This would be on hard woods specifically, as glue doesn't soak into hardwoods well, but I also do it on softwoods if I think it'd help the specific issue.
OOOhhh Boy! my first comment; I had to clean my monitor off! when Simon swore at the go-pro, I sprayed the screen with my drink of coffee out of my mouth every where. You two really crack me up!
Another brilliant episode, Gemma and Simon. The way you keep positive whilst digging around in the grot in her bilge is an inspiration. A couple of ideas on the things you showed us in this episode… First, the deep ply-clad bearer was probably made that way to create a deep strong pair of bearers for the fuel tanks in the absence of sufficient solid timber. The engine bearers are probably solid lengths of timber but ML1392 was built during a time of wartime shortages and maybe there was insufficient solid timber available for the extensions forward? Secondly, those copper fasteners standing proud are probably left over from some exterior planking repairs, as Simon suggested. They may not have had access to this part of the bilge when the repairs were done. You’ll only find out when she’s slipped and you can inspect the bottom properly. You may find planking repair sections fastened with screws from the outside?
Having owned over a dozen wood production and semi-production boats over a 50 year period, your bilge timbers and areas around the rivets amaze me. The wood deterioration (an acid that rots the wood) surrounding fastenings is nearly universal in wood boats that are immersed in salt water for decades. Regarding your rudders, is it possible that they are long (deep) and narrow. Your boat is relatively narrow, and shallow in stern, so while underway, your rudders would provide a good deal of stability. The rudder shafts and packing glands are bronze, so they are likely not stuck--- but the rudders may be very long and stuck in the mud!
Thats really interesting to see her history. She wasn't too far from us either at one point in her life when at Crinan, albeit, a while before we were here!
Confidently applying lessons learned. Safely leaving some investigating when on hard. Laminating in the old gas tank area. Winter time, boat closed up, don't forget about adequate ventilation in small spaces. Especially when working in the lowest part of the boat, the bilge. Epoxy glues and paint vent off fumes and vapors.
What a job !! but as usual amazed how you just get on and get it done and interesting how the boat was constructed , they don't make them like that today which is great for you as the boat would not have lasted so long .
Hi Simon / Gemma them frames could also be for transferring thrust from the engines forward as well as tank supports. Half way through watch on the smart tele. So just checked in on my phone so I could comment. Good job
It’s still so much fun watching you guys. I’m sorry I can’t afford to be a patron or any other way to help money wise (although I did send you an assortment of bronze screws way back in the early days). You’ve grown soooo much. I’m proud to be a watcher from the very beginning. ❤you guys and hope you can manage to “get er done” (definition open to interpretation) with all the help from others who can afford to help that way.😊
Should have a work diary even for the jobs done that way if you need to check something on film you don’t have to scroll through heaps to find , The idea of clamping the glued timber is to get a pressure seal , if you put anything else in the glued area it can cause weakness in your joints, many different ideas have been tried but the clamps cause a vacuum seal and done properly are extremely difficult to separate, it will break through the timber first , the both of you are absolutely amazing people for restoring this fine old lady best wishes from Tasmania Australia 🇦🇺
Time to start using 'bow' and 'stern' Gemma! You've come a long way let's see you start to assimilate the lingo! Fascinating nitty gritty problem-solving episode; I just love it!!
Congratulations on your determination and hard work! As an engineer, I would say that you need to keep the glue thickness as thin as possible(on a microscopic level there will always be glue there), as the adhesive quality is more important than its own inherent strength. By all means abrade the mating surfaces, as this increases the effective surface area, but don't increase the thickness of the glue with fishing line or anything else. My thoughts...
Plywood was used to build powered aircraft and gliders as well as in boats. It was used with the early super glues (not that super) and stamped "sanded" to provide a key surface.
Joking apart, dissimilar woods in contact can cause decay in wet conditions. The Royal Navy discovered that fact two hundred years ago when ships used to be pegged together with wooden trenails, and it often wasn't possible to be certain the trenails were made of the same wood as the frames and planking.
In wooden aircraft construction of wing formers inside the wing, glued up features use nails with the head sticking up a fingernail thickness. The nail holds them together till they cure and are left in place.
Simon, Gemma have you considered removing those huge fuel tanks and replacing them with more practical tanks. This vessel was designed and built with long range capabilities which are much needed for a war machine from when it was built. You will likely never need tanks this size nor are they likely to ever get filled to capacity. A couple of stove oil tanks would probably be more suited to Sarinda's future usage. And they would give you more room and allow you to do restoration underneath the tanks. They may even be able to be lowered down with the use of a day tank which would lower your center of mass which would slow the roll rate considerably. It would also reduce the need for some of the original ballast and anytime you can lighten the boat you are gaining. Just food for a thought.
A good idea where you cannot laminate elsewhere is laminate in place, and screw the pieces together in place, bolting through sideways to the old web-frames where you cannot work under the hull because of mud and water. Gluing bonds the fibres on two pieces together, doesn't matter if glue squeezes out on clamping. Clean up as best you can and later you can sand it off in place. Also laminating in place - you can put each strip in place in two pieces which will help you get the web frames full span with no gaps top and bottom, keeping joins staggered of course and maybe using 4 laminations instead of 3.
The strongest epoxy mixture I have found is to use about 10% chopped strand fiberglass about 1/2” this will wet out in the epoxy then add some wood dust and the rest silica. A little messy but super strong and the fiber gives you the space you are talking about. I scarfed full length planking and chines for a 50 foot boat out of 2” thick dried pressure treated pine over 20 years ago with this mix plus nails and screws and it is all still together and tight
Great job guys. I dont think the wood you took out were engine beareres. They were probably just put in to support the old fuel tanks. The ones on the bottom are more likely to be the main longitudinals. The main engine bearers are usually 12 x 3 or similar and only about twice the engine length. ATB regards
Keep in mind when you Dry Dock your wooden boat the wood will start to shrink if you’re out of the water for a period of time.. could open up a big can of worms…. Best to get it out and back in the water ASAP don’t DillyDattle or it can become a disaster. But I’m sure you’re aware of this. Either that or get the garden sprinklers out lol.
Another fantastic and really interesting episode, as always! It's truly satisfying to see you dissect and investigate the issues of this 80-year-old boat. Your problem-solving skills, especially as an engineer, are impressive. The harmony and teamwork between the two of you are what make your channel so captivating and endearing. Thank you for sharing this amazing content with us. Keep up the great work! Your dedication to rebuilding and your Friday night marine archaeology sessions are truly admirable. The idea of an "Out of the Water Jobs" book with indexed tasks and corresponding boat markings is brilliant for quantifying and confirming your progress. Sail safe, guys! You continue to inspire by overcoming every obstacle in your path. Well done! ❤️
Interesting to see how the engine bearer was built up - and that it's not connected through the length of the boat! A book to record all the faults and problems and ongoing work would be essential for a project like yours! You could do like we do in Aviation, and separate problems that NEED to be done - for safety or seaworthiness of the boat, and smaller problems that are just items of convenience. If you did it in your computer, you could also use that to record what you've done, materials and expenses, too! This could also help with any inspections you may need, as well.
Those bearers are fabricated bearers for strength but low weight. They are load bearers not part of the structural integrity of the hull. The bulkhead between the ER and the other is a watertight bulkhead....penetrating it would provide a leak path for water in the event of hull damage. As for the "floating" copper nails, your assertion regarding plank repair is correct.
Working on the muddy hard sucks. However you are not the first. To get to the bottom of the boat a process of careening has been used for centuries. Imagine the HMS Victory careened on the beach to get to her bottom plates. Up side-do it at high tide and have your docking lines heel over the boat. Tide goes out and you’re careened with half your hull exposed. Downside all your decks are on an slant and you can see what you may not want to see. Plan your work and you should be able to accomplish quite a lot of between the tides. Tide comes in, release your lines and the boat is level again. Easy peasey.
You definitely do not want anything between the 2 mating surfaces except the glue. Many if not most laminates are produced under extreme clamping pressures they not onlyexpect the extra glue/bonding agent to be forced out they require it.
I think the fishing line idea needs testing before using it, as sticking wood together is not the same as laying bricks where they are laid to a level on an overfilled bed of mortar. An idea of leaving a measured thickness of adhesive, is to tighten the bolts with a torque wrench but again test should be made. Maybe just contact the epoxy company and raise the question with them. On one tunnel project we had to form a concrete haunch along the sides, ideas came up of drilling the lining and installing rebar starter bars. But weight tests showed we only needed to scabble the surface of the lining segments to form a bond. So maybe having a rough surface instead of a planed surface would be stronger.
You guys are great in the way ya approach any problems that arise. The below the water line fix is epic do what ya can till on the hard. Maybe a tenon joint routed inti the bearer to give added strengh. Nice work on the laminating. Just bloody brilliant keep at it 😊
Regarding the coppernails cant you just cut the top/head off and put new rowes on them as is. Then you dont have to knock them in or out, just refit and tighten with a new rowe on the inside. You got the space for it!
Yet another episode where I am gobsmacked by your tenacity! Proper inspiration for me. Oh, can I check whether there is some sort of catch-up film so I can bring new people on to your amazing story?
Hello Gemma and Simon, great work as usual. Your perseverance on this job is amazing! A few questions: Have you stopped the van conversions and the shipping container? Why not continue the deck while the weather holds and the inside during the winter? I know with such a long project, sometimes you just have to go work on another area. Happy holidays to you both and the family.
Is it possible to hinge the engine room door on the left hand side so that it swings toward the portholes? That would make entry/exit into the engine room more easier and clear up some space in the room.
Those nails are not leaking. But they are not holding components together. So at some point they need to be replaced or re clinched with new roves. Otherwise in a sea things might open up.
I'm now seeing RUclips channels with excessive advertising, abusive really, being relentless nearly every minute! RUclips is about over for me. These abusive ads are so distracting from enjoying the channels videoed content. Lately been giving a thumbs down on channels having abusive relentless advertising as well as just leaving before the end of the video. I wonder if this is the beginning to the end of RUclips's rane at the top, I think so! Love your channel but hate all these ads. Seeing a child in an ad choking because he can't breath every minute or so isn't what I want to see. I come to my saved channels for enjoyment, not to feel bad after seeing some of these ads! Love seeing the progress you both are making on this wonderful historic boat.
Well then pay for RUclips premium or just understand that the advertisements help pay for the production of these videos that you watch for free. You have options but whining should not be one of them
Hi John, after your comment I have just been to check the advert placements in this video, and to my surprise there wasn't any adverts in the middle of this episode, stupid me for not setting any, and now we wont make any money as there were no adverts to make money from. So your comment doesn't make sense to me! Yes there was an ad at the very beginning, but none during the episode due to my error!! So I've basically put this video out for free! And it still gets complaints!
I've now amended this so there is now 2 ads during this video. But if you want to watch ad free, you can pay for youtube premium or become a patreon.
Unfortunately this project has to be funded somehow, otherwise there would be no videos on here for your enjoyment. We don't expect you to contribute in any way, but we would rather not have your view if your going to press the dislike button, as this is hurting the channel. All the effort we put into making these videos, the cost of the restoration, and the physical, mental and financial stress this puts on us, it would be nice to have our viewers support, and not people who come to complain and hit the dislike button.
John you clearly don’t comprehend how YT is set up to work. Poor form to complain.
I certainly agree with the comment John. We watch a lot of You Tube because we are so sickened by the abusive amount of advertising on our television here in the US. Believe it or not it is easily three times as much as in the UK. At our house we have banned purchasing any of the products advertised in the middle of our You Tube content and we further refuse to pay additional fees to avoid such aggressive advertising. You Tube is already a very profitable company and doesn't need to offend users with so many ads. But in the US greed is the only thing that matters. At any rate we love this channel and are amazed at the great skill and teamwork by this couple saving a unique watercraft from what rightfully should be a grim death. Cheers and thanks for saying what we all feel.
@@dfanta123crist5Complain to a RUclips Bot! That's like talking to the dead. What I want the host and others to know is this, RUclips treats subscribers one way and non subscribers another way, giving the unsubscribed a better viewing experience! The host pinned my comment for all to read, why? I'll tell you why, as the host of the channel he knows he can stop some advertising, however, RUclips can put ads up as they want, the host has very little to no say about that. So, why pin my comment? Either to have his subscribers comment negatively on my comment, leading them to believe something other than what is in the reply by the channels host to me. That being the settings were wrong, that money will not be generated from this latest video, that he had the settings wrong. This could be true, however, he leads others' to believe he controls the ads which isn't factual by stating he's perplexed do to the fact the settings were... This is now happening at other subscribed channels I visit daily, not just this channel. This is happening now for about a month. Can't even skip the ad, must watch full ads. What this tantamounts to is this, a fifteen minute video is now thirty minutes, being forced to watch informercials the other fifteen minutes in order to watch the channels content. Only certain subscribers, not all. The host will get a thumbs down from now on because of his effort to lead others to believe something that isn't factual. I'll visit with one of a dozen electronic devices to do just that. Too bad for the channel, this has a bigger picture here and may I say this, the host knows what side of his bread RUclips butters it. One reply states mindlessly to pay-up to be ad free, that RUclips pays the channel for the content. While true, that individual fails to recognize that it's the advertisers that pay for it. RUclips takes its share, then trickles a tiny portion down to the channels host. That's the cold hard truth! I say blank you to all those who think they know it all with responses that are simply intellectually. You know, like, pay-up, it has always been like this, everybody knows it's... I live in San Francisco, wasn't born yesterday and come in contact with software engineers, of which several are friends. I know how it all works. RUclips is pressuring subscribers of channels who visit them daily or..., to pay-up for ad free content or watch relentless informercials every minute or so during the video. Unsubscribed, let me open the door to show you a wonderful experience with only an ad or two that you have the choice to click-skip! 😮
never seen a couple work in such harmony before! - no doubt you have your arguments behind the scenes but you both seem to absolutely thrive working together to solve problems and its what makes you so endearing :)
_77y____
Yet another fantastic and really interesting episode.
As an engineer, I solve problems day to day, and to see you investigate issues and come up with solutions is really satisfying to watch.
It’s been said many times before, but watching the two of you work so well together is what makes your channel so interesting. You really are an effective team.
You thank us for donating, but we thank you for the amazing content in your vids.
Well done❤
These two deserve to hit 100k. Great content.
Maybe one day!
@@ShipHappensUKi watch every single video and tell my buddies at the club about your channel.
There's a man who knows what he's doing. Having a book is the most clever idea. When I was managing large construction jobs, I had one in my shirt pocket. When someone needed a problem solved, I'd write down what needed doing, who asked for it, when they asked for it, and when it needed doing by. Every day, I'd start at the top and work my way down, scratching off as they finished. No issue fell through the cracks or missed a deadline.
Simons giggle just cracks me up.
Out of the water jobs book is a good idea. You may want to index each job and somehow mark position in the book and on the boat. Plastic address labels with the index number written with a sharpie at all the locations will enable you to quantify the work and then check and confirm each job has been done. Sail Safe Guys, Ant & Cid.
Reference the episode and timestamp of the repair discussion
You both work so well together. The old expression “two minds are better than one” has never been truer.
You guys just overcome all the obstacles in your path and continue to make progress.
I do love me some Friday night marine archeology! And rebuilding, of course.
You two love stringering us all along! 🙂
Might be worth sticking a photo of the job to do on the hard in the new book. Just as visual reminder of the issue.
Great update 👍👍
I've heard of people posting signs by a printer or such saying it was voice command and watching people lose their minds. That pesky GoPro seems to be channeling that prank. Love this channel and the two of you.
I don't believe that there has ever been a better team than the both of you!!!
Good work and lots of progress. I don't like the idea of fishing line between the laminates. When I laminated my frames I had plenty of squeeze out, but 15 years later the frames are still just fine. I used West epoxy thickened with their 403 microfibers.
Based on what I know about fiberglass, the more epoxy you squeeze out the better. Since the epoxy is only there to fill the gaps between the strands, if there are voids you're more likely to have it crack and delaminate
@@undissatisfied1557 They are not using fiberglass. They are laminating pieces of wood together with epoxy. When it comes to fiberglass, you want to get to approximately 50% resin by weight in a part. The exact amount varies a bit based on the specific fiberglass you are using. More than 50% by weight and you have a resin rich and comparatively brittle part. If you go much less than 50% you can generate a resin starved part.
Wll done. Its so intersting seeing how she was built. The upgrades that were done in the 80's. The way you work together to overcome issues. Another brilliant episode 😊
Sailboat glue, can't wait to see Gemma and Simon knitting themselves a sail.
Simon what a wonderfully gifted practical woman you have. Gemma is such an asset to you and this project. I've never known a woman to be so keen to learn just about anything..
Love you both!
An old fire blanket makes a really great spark stopper.
The copper nails in the bottom you can take a toilet paper roll center and cut it just long enough to come to ether the bottom of the washer or to the top and fill it with epoxy, that way it holds the copper nails and washers tight in place so they won't be accidentally hit and or loosened along with keeping them sealed, you can cut your wood to fit around them and to be replaceable and if you ever do need to replace them it will be easy to do so along with new wood.
No joke, it will be a novel if you can even manage to remember all the times you’ve already said, “we’ll get to that when we’re out of the water.” Great idea!😊
You thought that section was a continuation of the engine bearer and as such would provide longitudinal strength to the hull. Now you know it is a separate section you need to consider if it is still required. If a replacement tank is not going in there then what you build only needs to be strong enough to support the new sole (floor for non boaters). This probably also applies to the similar structures in the forward cabin.
Suggestion - flip the engine room door so it opens to the port side of the hull - should be easy to do with a few minor mods… just a thought
I just love to see how you are getting around any problem you are discovering.
I would not use fishing line with wood glue. No idea about epoxy. You’re welcome for this super helpful tip 😂
You two guys - are amazing - nothing phases you - you just get on and do what needs to be done - Sarinda is in good hands!!! With you working in the fuel tanks/engine room areas its reminded me about you coming up with names for Sarinda's port and starboard engines - do you have names yet?? As it is a WW2 vessel with Kat engines, how about "Tom" and "Jerry"? a subtle connection to our world war two Tommies - and the other lot!
depending on the application and material details, I've found that scoring/ scratching/ gouging a bit on both surfaces helps keep glue in there, and when I pry it apart during testing it doesn't snap apart fairly cleanly, it destyroys the wood, indicating a better bond. This would be on hard woods specifically, as glue doesn't soak into hardwoods well, but I also do it on softwoods if I think it'd help the specific issue.
OOOhhh Boy! my first comment; I had to clean my monitor off! when Simon swore at the go-pro, I sprayed the screen with my drink of coffee out of my mouth every where. You two really crack me up!
Another brilliant episode, Gemma and Simon. The way you keep positive whilst digging around in the grot in her bilge is an inspiration. A couple of ideas on the things you showed us in this episode… First, the deep ply-clad bearer was probably made that way to create a deep strong pair of bearers for the fuel tanks in the absence of sufficient solid timber. The engine bearers are probably solid lengths of timber but ML1392 was built during a time of wartime shortages and maybe there was insufficient solid timber available for the extensions forward? Secondly, those copper fasteners standing proud are probably left over from some exterior planking repairs, as Simon suggested. They may not have had access to this part of the bilge when the repairs were done. You’ll only find out when she’s slipped and you can inspect the bottom properly. You may find planking repair sections fastened with screws from the outside?
Great crisp video! Great audio! Substantial improvement from first episode? Thx for bringing us along. 😊😊😊 John Ken
Having owned over a dozen wood production and semi-production boats over a 50 year period, your bilge timbers and areas around the rivets amaze me. The wood deterioration (an acid that rots the wood) surrounding fastenings is nearly universal in wood boats that are immersed in salt water for decades. Regarding your rudders, is it possible that they are long (deep) and narrow. Your boat is relatively narrow, and shallow in stern, so while underway, your rudders would provide a good deal of stability. The rudder shafts and packing glands are bronze, so they are likely not stuck--- but the rudders may be very long and stuck in the mud!
Thats really interesting to see her history. She wasn't too far from us either at one point in her life when at Crinan, albeit, a while before we were here!
Confidently applying lessons learned. Safely leaving some investigating when on hard. Laminating in the old gas tank area. Winter time, boat closed up, don't forget about adequate ventilation in small spaces. Especially when working in the lowest part of the boat, the bilge. Epoxy glues and paint vent off fumes and vapors.
What a job !! but as usual amazed how you just get on and get it done and interesting how the boat was constructed , they don't make them like that today which is great for you as the boat would not have lasted so long .
Each day you replace another vertebrae in her back, making her stronger than ever..quite the good work.
great idea Gemma about trimming those clamps with an angle-grinder 😀 .. that's the sort of lateral thinking that makes workshop stuff fun!
Hi Simon / Gemma them frames could also be for transferring thrust from the engines forward as well as tank supports. Half way through watch on the smart tele. So just checked in on my phone so I could comment. Good job
It’s still so much fun watching you guys. I’m sorry I can’t afford to be a patron or any other way to help money wise (although I did send you an assortment of bronze screws way back in the early days). You’ve grown soooo much. I’m proud to be a watcher from the very beginning. ❤you guys and hope you can manage to “get er done” (definition open to interpretation) with all the help from others who can afford to help that way.😊
At some point you going to have to get her out before it to late don't want to lose all that hard work seen it before ❤
This stuff is addictive. Great work.
What, the glue?
Looks like you guys took in a big haul of new Patrons 🎉
Should have a work diary even for the jobs done that way if you need to check something on film you don’t have to scroll through heaps to find , The idea of clamping the glued timber is to get a pressure seal , if you put anything else in the glued area it can cause weakness in your joints, many different ideas have been tried but the clamps cause a vacuum seal and done properly are extremely difficult to separate, it will break through the timber first , the both of you are absolutely amazing people for restoring this fine old lady best wishes from Tasmania Australia 🇦🇺
Seeing stuff clamped to a sister and coming back into line is😊 SOO SATISFYING
Time to start using 'bow' and 'stern' Gemma! You've come a long way let's see you start to assimilate the lingo! Fascinating nitty gritty problem-solving episode; I just love it!!
You are so in tune with each other.
Wonderfull
Congratulations on your determination and hard work! As an engineer, I would say that you need to keep the glue thickness as thin as possible(on a microscopic level there will always be glue there), as the adhesive quality is more important than its own inherent strength. By all means abrade the mating surfaces, as this increases the effective surface area, but don't increase the thickness of the glue with fishing line or anything else. My thoughts...
Plywood was used to build powered aircraft and gliders as well as in boats. It was used with the early super glues (not that super) and stamped "sanded" to provide a key surface.
Great video. Addictive to watch! Can’t wait for next one. Dave Birmingham
Joking apart, dissimilar woods in contact can cause decay in wet conditions. The Royal Navy discovered that fact two hundred years ago when ships used to be pegged together with wooden trenails, and it often wasn't possible to be certain the trenails were made of the same wood as the frames and planking.
In wooden aircraft construction of wing formers inside the wing, glued up features use nails with the head sticking up a fingernail thickness. The nail holds them together till they cure and are left in place.
Why, that’s just extra weight? (Weight being a massive enemy of flight.
Great video! Always impressed by the laminating.
You and me both, so much easier than messing around with steam bending!
you two are so perfect together
Reaspect to you both. That’s a project that will need all the enthusiasm you both have!
Nice place to bring my boat Resilience
Solid job as always!
Thanks x
Simon, Gemma have you considered removing those huge fuel tanks and replacing them with more practical tanks. This vessel was designed and built with long range capabilities which are much needed for a war machine from when it was built. You will likely never need tanks this size nor are they likely to ever get filled to capacity. A couple of stove oil tanks would probably be more suited to Sarinda's future usage. And they would give you more room and allow you to do restoration underneath the tanks. They may even be able to be lowered down with the use of a day tank which would lower your center of mass which would slow the roll rate considerably. It would also reduce the need for some of the original ballast and anytime you can lighten the boat you are gaining. Just food for a thought.
P.s. my minds eye sees the two smaller tanks moved to the side and the engine room door placed center of the hull.
Good idea for a jobs out of the water to do book. Or as you will go you will surely forget something…..great job so far guys
A good idea where you cannot laminate elsewhere is laminate in place, and screw the pieces together in place, bolting through sideways to the old web-frames where you cannot work under the hull because of mud and water. Gluing bonds the fibres on two pieces together, doesn't matter if glue squeezes out on clamping. Clean up as best you can and later you can sand it off in place. Also laminating in place - you can put each strip in place in two pieces which will help you get the web frames full span with no gaps top and bottom, keeping joins staggered of course and maybe using 4 laminations instead of 3.
You all are awesome ❤
The strongest epoxy mixture I have found is to use about 10% chopped strand fiberglass about 1/2” this will wet out in the epoxy then add some wood dust and the rest silica. A little messy but super strong and the fiber gives you the space you are talking about. I scarfed full length planking and chines for a 50 foot boat out of 2” thick dried pressure treated pine over 20 years ago with this mix plus nails and screws and it is all still together and tight
That is almost not better advice, than the epoxy expert told them.
Great job guys. I dont think the wood you took out were engine beareres. They were probably just put in to support the old fuel tanks. The ones on the bottom are more likely to be the main longitudinals. The main engine bearers are usually 12 x 3 or similar and only about twice the engine length. ATB regards
Keep in mind when you Dry Dock your wooden boat the wood will start to shrink if you’re out of the water for a period of time.. could open up a big can of worms…. Best to get it out and back in the water ASAP don’t DillyDattle or it can become a disaster. But I’m sure you’re aware of this. Either that or get the garden sprinklers out lol.
Similar to where it is now. Setting on top of a mud bank. Only occasionally, Is the hull fully wet on extreme high tide.
Another fantastic and really interesting episode, as always! It's truly satisfying to see you dissect and investigate the issues of this 80-year-old boat. Your problem-solving skills, especially as an engineer, are impressive. The harmony and teamwork between the two of you are what make your channel so captivating and endearing. Thank you for sharing this amazing content with us. Keep up the great work! Your dedication to rebuilding and your Friday night marine archaeology sessions are truly admirable. The idea of an "Out of the Water Jobs" book with indexed tasks and corresponding boat markings is brilliant for quantifying and confirming your progress. Sail safe, guys! You continue to inspire by overcoming every obstacle in your path. Well done! ❤️
Interesting to see how the engine bearer was built up - and that it's not connected through the length of the boat!
A book to record all the faults and problems and ongoing work would be essential for a project like yours! You could do like we do in Aviation, and separate problems that NEED to be done - for safety or seaworthiness of the boat, and smaller problems that are just items of convenience.
If you did it in your computer, you could also use that to record what you've done, materials and expenses, too! This could also help with any inspections you may need, as well.
Copper nails that stick out. Cut the copper nails and leave enough nail to add new copper washer and Peen the nail to the beam.
Those bearers are fabricated bearers for strength but low weight. They are load bearers not part of the structural integrity of the hull. The bulkhead between the ER and the other is a watertight bulkhead....penetrating it would provide a leak path for water in the event of hull damage.
As for the "floating" copper nails, your assertion regarding plank repair is correct.
willingly taking on a to do list, you do realise how high you are pushing the bar for the rest of us Simon ! LOL!
Unbelivable great nuts. My favorite series.love you guys😊
Working on the muddy hard sucks. However you are not the first. To get to the bottom of the boat a process of careening has been used for centuries. Imagine the HMS Victory careened on the beach to get to her bottom plates.
Up side-do it at high tide and have your docking lines heel over the boat. Tide goes out and you’re careened with half your hull exposed. Downside all your decks are on an slant and you can see what you may not want to see. Plan your work and you should be able to accomplish quite a lot of between the tides.
Tide comes in, release your lines and the boat is level again. Easy peasey.
Love watching this beautiful boat come back
You are best. Best regards from Finland. Love you.
Thank you! 😃
Hey a double bill. That's made my day. Thank you.
Great job by Gemma just making mincemeat of the engine bearer plywood!!!
Hahaha what a great end to the video, you two are great
You definitely do not want anything between the 2 mating surfaces except the glue. Many if not most laminates are produced under extreme clamping pressures they not onlyexpect the extra glue/bonding agent to be forced out they require it.
Agreed.
UGH VERY DIRTY BUT AFTER YOU GUYS STARTEDED PREPPING FOR REPAIRS, IT'S LOOKING MUCH BETTER
I think the fishing line idea needs testing before using it, as sticking wood together is not the same as laying bricks where they are laid to a level on an overfilled bed of mortar. An idea of leaving a measured thickness of adhesive, is to tighten the bolts with a torque wrench but again test should be made. Maybe just contact the epoxy company and raise the question with them.
On one tunnel project we had to form a concrete haunch along the sides, ideas came up of drilling the lining and installing rebar starter bars. But weight tests showed we only needed to scabble the surface of the lining segments to form a bond.
So maybe having a rough surface instead of a planed surface would be stronger.
That's it, seen it so many times I just had to comment. "Never use your hand as a hammer".
You guys are great in the way ya approach any problems that arise. The below the water line fix is epic do what ya can till on the hard. Maybe a tenon joint routed inti the bearer to give added strengh. Nice work on the laminating. Just bloody brilliant keep at it 😊
If that big packer block is a somewhat soft wood, it's likely old growth fir or spruce. Possibly tamarack/ larch.
Regarding the coppernails cant you just cut the top/head off and put new rowes on them as is. Then you dont have to knock them in or out, just refit and tighten with a new rowe on the inside. You got the space for it!
But when the new heads are being peened on, the nails are being hammered outboard.
Thanks!
Cheers Joe xx
Yet another episode where I am gobsmacked by your tenacity! Proper inspiration for me. Oh, can I check whether there is some sort of catch-up film so I can bring new people on to your amazing story?
For new people I would recommend watching episode 52 & 100
Yes, that's going to be a large book of things to check in the dry dock 😂
An even larger book of tasks already completed by the time they get that far.
Knobhead.. haha. Yeah atleast you have stuff to do indoors for now. Thank you for a great video!
Think you need to botch a night heater together for this time of year 🥶
Very very interesting. I allso love your woodworking fixes. Looks really profesional.
Thank you very much!
Lelochip…brilliant!
Brilliant again guys !
incredible, like all past videos!
Yes a Repair Journal
Hello Gemma and Simon, great work as usual. Your perseverance on this job is amazing! A few questions: Have you stopped the van conversions and the shipping container? Why not continue the deck while the weather holds and the inside during the winter? I know with such a long project, sometimes you just have to go work on another area. Happy holidays to you both and the family.
The "engine bearer" looks like plywood box beam. They can be very strong.
Ah! Love the sticky epoxy.
Is it possible to hinge the engine room door on the left hand side so that it swings toward the portholes? That would make entry/exit into the engine room more easier and clear up some space in the room.
Oh great work upuntill now
Those nails are not leaking. But they are not holding components together. So at some point they need to be replaced or re clinched with new roves. Otherwise in a sea things might open up.
U are almost in the stage of needing dry docking!!
The Wreck of the Hesperus has got nothing on this old girl.
Crushed walnut shells work as well