Seeing how far you’ve come from making “cold air intake” from dryer venting to completely drivetrain swapping not just 1 but 2 cars now is just incredible.. thanks for the years of entertainment man
A dry sump kit is pretty expensive, and you also need a space to put the oil reservoir and pump. If he already has trouble fitting the brake booster and steering shaft on one side, there probably won't be much room for the oil tank anywhere.
Hey I saw that your LS doesn’t have any rear steam ports you may want to run front and rear steam ports that tie into your coolant hoses to prevent hot spots in the motor.
been sitting on my 240 for awhile, wondering what im going to do. too bad you didnt do a 16v conversion. glad theres going to be a more descriptive build on the volvo videos compared to the others!
Hey, nice vid! One thing to add tho, is to strengthen the panhard-bar mount on the chassi, those are known to be weak points for volvos with lots of power! Awesome work, keep it up.
3:15 maybe add a doubler plate on the outside (left and right) that catches the frame too. So over the existing mount you did, going up at least 4 cm. Here's why i'm saying this. If you ever have a less than crash bump, chances are that the plate's weld/frame will crack. You need some form of stress mitigation because you welded them at the ends (of the plate) where there's less structure than in a over plate situation. I know why you did, and that's that, but one plate extra per side should solve the potential issue. One plate per side should be more than sufficient to stop any kind of stress (you have to remember that you're resting the whole car on four plate ends. That's a lot of weight) and in case of a small bump, like i said, you wouldn't have the issues that arise with it. Also, as someone who got burned on this kind of stuff before, check the pumpkin on the inside, just rotating it isn't enough. Look for excessive wear and maybe even rust. You don't know why that car was in the junk yard, best you know before it breaks to the point where it can't be repaired. In theory, you get away with just checking the state of the gears and maybe use the lever to check the state of the end play side to side (would check the bearing for the pinion shaft too). Just some cautionary 2 cents, nothing more. That said, i think you did an amazing job so far. Like i said before, out of all the RUclips car kids, you're the one that has the biggest and most consistent growth. It's unreal just how fast you're able to catch up to the big guys in just a few years.
Plug welding your control arms will make them that much stronger! Drill into the tube where the shaft of the heim joint sits, but not into the heim itself then fill the plug with weld, off-road guys do that just to hold up to extra abuse!
Don’t need to remove brake booster to put motor and trans in. You’ll need a different steering shaft and to mash the firewall a bit for the t56 to fit as well as cut the shifter whole a bit. I pulled everything off the front of mine and it slid right in. Also bunch of v8 Volvo groups on Facebook if you have more questions.
I started watching your channel back when it was mostly Forza videos with the occasional Molly episode. It's amazing to see how far you've come over just the past few years!
dude, love your builds. awesome how you progressed with your skills!! but please do us all a favor and fix all the rust on the volvo! that car deserves to look mint, even if it‘s intended to be a sleeper
Sweet Build! I did a similar rear end upgrade but went about it a different way on my channel. A bit less expensive. Can't wait to see the results of both of our builds on the track, and on the dyno. Shooting for 700 this year, made 505 wheel last year. Keep the Volvo Videos coming!
I remember like two years ago, maybe more, when you were planning on doing the subaru swap and this build and they were just vague wishes, now they are realities, good job getting it done.
I've seen some hydro handbrakes come with bias-ing valve, so for burnouts you can nearly diss-engage rear brakes(if brake line will go through hydro), then use it as staging brake. You don't want to brake that sweet axle, do you?
@@fiisho Slipping a handbrake while preloading reduces shock on the drivetrain. Linelock locks the fronts only, mainly for burnouts. A mansbrake is a transbrake but for manuals.
To be honest this all tho its a volvo this is one of the builds i really like watching and like just click on the video without looking to see whatelse there is and really like old volvos so good idea and good project caleb
You really need to weld your axle tubes! If you're going to be putting that much power through an 8.8 and launching it you will snap the plug welds and spin the axle tubes inside the diff housing.
You must have seen Tom's Turbo Garage fitment of an LS into a Tacoma. He ended up getting a front oil pan (Summit Racing part numbers in the video) and making a hotrod-style steering extension. It's documented pretty clearly, you could easily copy what he did if needed.
Who would have thought that a Ford Explorer rear axle would be so well suited for your project? I don't think this old Volvo could have imagined a better second life
Loving the build but from personal experience the 8.8 can take about 500 before the 31 splines break. It also depends on how hard you drive it but I’d consider upgrading the housing and axles to some beefier ones. But that’s just my opinion. Love the build though keep it up!!
Very cool build but I have some bad news; you just warped the crap out of the axle tubes. Whenever you weld anything onto a differential it needs to be camped down. I know this because I learned it the hard way. How it will show up is it's going to take out wheel bearings, not right away but probably every 5-10k you're going to be replacing one or both of them (axle bearings). But I love the concept and build!
Nice! But just to put it out there. Many people have run +500hp on the dragstrip and drift tracks on stock axles without problems but the magic word is an strong lsd preferably a Torsen helical style because the axles shafts don't like spools, so the 8.8 is a cheaper and stronger alternative no doubt in this situation! But for their size the stock axles are actually really strong.
Hey gingium,i think a good idea is to change the diff oil and see its condition before it takes ls torque and have a big trouble in case something is not right
Set the miles thats on the motor on the tach and keep a note of how many miles body has and see how long that stock motor stays intact after some abuse
Great build and even better to watch the progress vids. Any chance you could post the rear coil overs part number, the supplier or a identifier. The parts list ebay link is now invalid. Thanks.
If you took the time to Undercoat those small areas you Fabricated!....I hope you will do all the Rust Repair on that as well?...At least make it look somewhat OEM+
I’ve heard oiling issues is mainly what kills ls engines. Will you need an accusump or anything like that for this build? This build is looking amazing though honestly. I’ve been watching since the Molly in a home garage days so it’s crazy seeing your progress.
Are you going to reinforce that panhard bolt a bit? You said you were, but I only saw it welded. Seems like instead of that metal sleeve you spaced the bar with, it could use a pyramid like structure to help support the bolt from side ways forces. It would double as the spacer you need as well.
Will you being reinforcing the chassis? Looks fairly rusted and I'd imagine some miata-style frame rail stiffeners and cross bracing would go along a way. Having dailed a 600whp vette for years I can appreciate big power and a stiff chassis. Thanks for the amazing content, still have some of your air fresheners from your first release.
You might wanna rebuild that LSD chances are the clutches are worn down they well a carbon fiber rebuild kit it's the one that Chris fix did on his mustang.
I was under the impression that 2 5/16” had to be taken out of the long side of the axle housing and an additional short side axle used to have the same width as the factory axle housing. Is this not the case? I’m about to install a foxbody 5.0 302 in mine.
This is one of the most coolest build of gingium
Yepp
We still need a rx7
@@zombieplant3048 nah gingies great for not doing the main stream.
@@wesleybates5585 he had one but he sold it way too soon
@@zombieplant3048 yeah cause it was way too expensive for his budget back then
Seeing how far you’ve come from making “cold air intake” from dryer venting to completely drivetrain swapping not just 1 but 2 cars now is just incredible.. thanks for the years of entertainment man
4 cars lol
Molly, rally miata, drift truck, now this
@@cccraigslist and the bus
@@lloydy___8720 and the datsun, too?
And the civic and well... the previa
Yall forgetting the subaru wagon, fred the focus, the rx7
Holly I can't even amagine what builds you will be into in 10 years this is crazy
I swear gingium is the only youtuber that actually puts in work and gets his project done
You’ve obviously never heard of “ChrisFix”
@@11gen_heihei not really. only other person I can think of is Jimmy oakes
What about BUILT OFFICIAL?
Jimmy Oaks, BUILT, and Evan Shanks
Do a dry sump for the oil, it will basically eliminate the oil pan issue
A dry sump kit is pretty expensive, and you also need a space to put the oil reservoir and pump. If he already has trouble fitting the brake booster and steering shaft on one side, there probably won't be much room for the oil tank anywhere.
@@wowdogeful In the trunk
Yeah I had some people recommended me that, its just way to expensive. I already got it to fit so no worries! You'll see in the next vid :)
In order to have beefy slicks don’t you have to use shorter axles to fit the tires?
@@onmy7.622 not necessarily with the right offset you can make it work
Love how the grinder touched the metal to the beat of the song at 2:53 , Pasha you good bro.
Hey I saw that your LS doesn’t have any rear steam ports you may want to run front and rear steam ports that tie into your coolant hoses to prevent hot spots in the motor.
Ahaha I got a Volvo ad before the video started,it must be a sign
been sitting on my 240 for awhile, wondering what im going to do. too bad you didnt do a 16v conversion. glad theres going to be a more descriptive build on the volvo videos compared to the others!
Great work. What I do recommend to strengthen the 8.8 with 600hp getting thrown at it is to welding the axel tube to the pumpkin
Hey, nice vid! One thing to add tho, is to strengthen the panhard-bar mount on the chassi, those are known to be weak points for volvos with lots of power!
Awesome work, keep it up.
The first custom 4 link I've seen on RUclips that isnt a jeep or truck thank God for that
3:15 maybe add a doubler plate on the outside (left and right) that catches the frame too. So over the existing mount you did, going up at least 4 cm.
Here's why i'm saying this. If you ever have a less than crash bump, chances are that the plate's weld/frame will crack. You need some form of stress mitigation because you welded them at the ends (of the plate) where there's less structure than in a over plate situation.
I know why you did, and that's that, but one plate extra per side should solve the potential issue. One plate per side should be more than sufficient to stop any kind of stress (you have to remember that you're resting the whole car on four plate ends. That's a lot of weight) and in case of a small bump, like i said, you wouldn't have the issues that arise with it.
Also, as someone who got burned on this kind of stuff before, check the pumpkin on the inside, just rotating it isn't enough. Look for excessive wear and maybe even rust. You don't know why that car was in the junk yard, best you know before it breaks to the point where it can't be repaired. In theory, you get away with just checking the state of the gears and maybe use the lever to check the state of the end play side to side (would check the bearing for the pinion shaft too).
Just some cautionary 2 cents, nothing more.
That said, i think you did an amazing job so far. Like i said before, out of all the RUclips car kids, you're the one that has the biggest and most consistent growth. It's unreal just how fast you're able to catch up to the big guys in just a few years.
From making some cringy gaming vids to making these vids this man has evolved very very good 😂😂😂😂😂
Jk jk ur gaming vids were very good as well
Plug welding your control arms will make them that much stronger! Drill into the tube where the shaft of the heim joint sits, but not into the heim itself then fill the plug with weld, off-road guys do that just to hold up to extra abuse!
Those wooden blocks for adjusting suspension is the hardest working tool in the shop
literally a kid that played forza is now doing it in real life 👍🏾👍🏾
exept... you cant ls swap the volvo in forza....
@@eriksimca9409 pretty sure you can lol
@@kristianmichels5649 not v8 you cant
@@eriksimca9409 you been able to on most forzas
@@kristianmichels5649 not in fh4
Don’t need to remove brake booster to put motor and trans in. You’ll need a different steering shaft and to mash the firewall a bit for the t56 to fit as well as cut the shifter whole a bit. I pulled everything off the front of mine and it slid right in. Also bunch of v8 Volvo groups on Facebook if you have more questions.
I started watching your channel back when it was mostly Forza videos with the occasional Molly episode. It's amazing to see how far you've come over just the past few years!
Cam. Trunnions. Springs.
This is gonna be a cool car.
dude, love your builds. awesome how you progressed with your skills!! but please do us all a favor and fix all the rust on the volvo! that car deserves to look mint, even if it‘s intended to be a sleeper
@ Gingium, you should also weld the axle tubes to the axle housing. It adds a lot of strength and will avoid the tubes from spinning under high hp/tq.
Sweet Build! I did a similar rear end upgrade but went about it a different way on my channel. A bit less expensive. Can't wait to see the results of both of our builds on the track, and on the dyno. Shooting for 700 this year, made 505 wheel last year. Keep the Volvo Videos coming!
I'm bingeing this build, that first drive got me excited ;)
Hey caleb do you ever wanna do a cleaning the shop livestream
I love your videos man everytime you post something i'm happy your the best
I remember like two years ago, maybe more, when you were planning on doing the subaru swap and this build and they were just vague wishes, now they are realities, good job getting it done.
I've seen some hydro handbrakes come with bias-ing valve, so for burnouts you can nearly diss-engage rear brakes(if brake line will go through hydro), then use it as staging brake. You don't want to brake that sweet axle, do you?
Nah, get a mansbrake from nxt shift.
linelock is a thing...
@@fiisho Slipping a handbrake while preloading reduces shock on the drivetrain. Linelock locks the fronts only, mainly for burnouts. A mansbrake is a transbrake but for manuals.
@@tag206 I know, im talking about the guy saying to get a biasing valve for burnouts
@@fiisho Realised after i hit reply. mb.
Your literally the only youtuber who I watch that does work like this and shows it still beautiful work of art
Keep an eye on that drag link mount. There is alot of bending force on those bolt head welds whenever you turn. Looks dope
Ging! Your progress with fabrication over the builds is amazing. Keep on learning and inspiring.
I haven't been this excited for a Gingium build since you started the drift truck
You might want to look into c-clip eliminators, prevent your wheel from falling off if you snap an axle shaft.
Super excited to see this build, but that axle really needs a diff brace before it spins the axles tubes on you
You should add a plate to the 4-link bars on the bottom of the axle. It will keep them from twisting
This man is doing his best to bring back the paint brush. I respek that.
Awesome build! Those lasercut brackets are looking very good too.
Loving this build. Awesome job Caleb. You have really inspired me to learn how to weld. Thanks for all the amazing content.
🦃🍁🍂Happy Thanksgiving to everyone! 🦃🍁🍂
Hey Gingium, happy thanksgiving bud. Hope you and Audrey have a wonderful time today.
Thankful for the longer episode!
Keep it up bud!
It’s such a simple idea but so fascinating how easy you made it look to put that in
To be honest this all tho its a volvo this is one of the builds i really like watching and like just click on the video without looking to see whatelse there is and really like old volvos so good idea and good project caleb
You really need to weld your axle tubes! If you're going to be putting that much power through an 8.8 and launching it you will snap the plug welds and spin the axle tubes inside the diff housing.
You must have seen Tom's Turbo Garage fitment of an LS into a Tacoma. He ended up getting a front oil pan (Summit Racing part numbers in the video) and making a hotrod-style steering extension. It's documented pretty clearly, you could easily copy what he did if needed.
Good job! I am not sure if the panhard bar axle support will be strong enough... I suggest you to add a reinforcement! Keep filming✊🏼
Just casually binging gingium videos at 5am before school lmaoo
its 5pm for me lmao
@@AsapSztonder For me its 6 pm
The video was posted at 11:00am for me.
This was posted at around 9:50am for me
6:45 PM for me
Looking at progress done do Volvette is so satisfying
Who would have thought that a Ford Explorer rear axle would be so well suited for your project? I don't think this old Volvo could have imagined a better second life
I clicked it as fast as possible. So excited for the finished product
14 minutes of pure gold!
Loving the build but from personal experience the 8.8 can take about 500 before the 31 splines break. It also depends on how hard you drive it but I’d consider upgrading the housing and axles to some beefier ones. But that’s just my opinion. Love the build though keep it up!!
Happy thanksgiving gingium, thank you for all these videos over the years, stay safe my friend. one day we could hopefully meet :)
Very cool build but I have some bad news; you just warped the crap out of the axle tubes. Whenever you weld anything onto a differential it needs to be camped down. I know this because I learned it the hard way. How it will show up is it's going to take out wheel bearings, not right away but probably every 5-10k you're going to be replacing one or both of them (axle bearings).
But I love the concept and build!
It’s crazy how good you’ve gotten at fabricating over the years
Nice progress on the "Not so slow Volvo" 👍👍👍
making good progress! works looks solid and your skills are improving. i’d kill to have a lift and that much space to work, would be a game changer
of course the first fully non mazda build is the craziest super super hyped for this one great work
Nice!
But just to put it out there.
Many people have run +500hp on the dragstrip and drift tracks on stock axles without problems but the magic word is an strong lsd preferably a Torsen helical style because the axles shafts don't like spools, so the 8.8 is a cheaper and stronger alternative no doubt in this situation!
But for their size the stock axles are actually really strong.
The build begins boys lets goo
Hey gingium,i think a good idea is to change the diff oil and see its condition before it takes ls torque and have a big trouble in case something is not right
Solid work! This rear axle will do nicely.
Set the miles thats on the motor on the tach and keep a note of how many miles body has and see how long that stock motor stays intact after some abuse
Love the build! Maybe future collabs with cleeter?
Can't wait to see it reap up the streets 😎
The Volvo needs a name.
I feel like he’s still gonna end up snapping the axle shafts
I love this, this is definetly something that will end up on ThatDudeInBlue when it's done!
Exactly what I need before the sleep
Fabium never ceases to impress. great work!
i would advise you to get the axle straighten before finishing it - the welding would have warped it and you maay have axle issues later on.....
You know you have something when I'm watching a tj hunt video and see your video below and click on it strait away
TJ hunt is a joke lol, ginguim does more work to his cars in one video than TJ ever has done to any of his cars
Tf you watching that hunt kid for in the first place
@@fakename287 😂 I know I'm actually going off his channel, feels like he's sold out for fame
Just saying it doesn't matter what you are building i be watching lmao love this build
Great build and even better to watch the progress vids. Any chance you could post the rear coil overs part number, the supplier or a identifier. The parts list ebay link is now invalid. Thanks.
This is so awesome, never stop doing this kind of stuff.
Just some food for thought...if your going to be launching this thing on slicks, you might want to weld the tubes....
New to your channel love this ls build very different can't wait to wait rest of this build and all your other ones
If you took the time to Undercoat those small areas you Fabricated!....I hope you will do all the Rust Repair on that as well?...At least make it look somewhat OEM+
Love this build, keep up the grind sir!
Liked before watching the video 👍🏻 much love for Fabium ❤️
Me too just hit the like before it starts
Great looking build. What did the rearend come out of? Mine was from an explorer and I had to shorten the driver side axle tube.
Love the passion behind each thing Gingium does, been here since the Forza vidss, super excited for this build.
Please keep those roof cross bars, completes the look.
I’ve heard oiling issues is mainly what kills ls engines. Will you need an accusump or anything like that for this build? This build is looking amazing though honestly. I’ve been watching since the Molly in a home garage days so it’s crazy seeing your progress.
So satisfying when you're fabium stuff. Fav channel ever since forza videos!
It would be cool to have the original steel wheels have a larger barrel put on so it looks stock from the outside but can run a much larger tire.
As far as I know all the clutch kits for any ls will work but the Corvette and camaro ones have a more clamping force than the truck ones
Happy Thanksgiving gungium and audtry I hope you have a nice Thanksgiving love y'all 👍 keep up the good work
Nice brackets!
Bruh who remembered when ging was a gamer channel
Not sure if youre going to see this or not, but i would HIGHLY suggest putting a "Diff Mount" up front to keep the axel from swinging up and down.
That's not how solid axle suspensions work..
Are you going to reinforce that panhard bolt a bit? You said you were, but I only saw it welded. Seems like instead of that metal sleeve you spaced the bar with, it could use a pyramid like structure to help support the bolt from side ways forces. It would double as the spacer you need as well.
Yeah I'll definitely do something like that before doing any serious driving!
Can't wait to see this thing at GLD.
Will you being reinforcing the chassis? Looks fairly rusted and I'd imagine some miata-style frame rail stiffeners and cross bracing would go along a way. Having dailed a 600whp vette for years I can appreciate big power and a stiff chassis. Thanks for the amazing content, still have some of your air fresheners from your first release.
"The harbor frieght tube kinker" 😂😂😂
You might wanna rebuild that LSD chances are the clutches are worn down they well a carbon fiber rebuild kit it's the one that Chris fix did on his mustang.
Slovo. Things gonna be sick
As James Pumphrey once said
. .
.
.
MORE POWAR BABEHHH!!
Hey Gingium, are they any chances your able to share your differential bracket templates? I would like to do this to my Volvo aswell ! Thanks, cheers!
I was under the impression that 2 5/16” had to be taken out of the long side of the axle housing and an additional short side axle used to have the same width as the factory axle housing. Is this not the case? I’m about to install a foxbody 5.0 302 in mine.
Happy thanksgiving!