Omg, can we just take a minute to appreciate the amount of care on all the little details that it is put onto this build, it’s simply gorgeous. That plus the quality of the editing and music makes it a masterpiece to watch.
There are 2 different styles of steering racks for these cars (CAM and ZF). They use different tie rods and ends as well as boots. Some of the tie rods have a rubber bushing that slides on where the accordion boot can be affixed to.
If you look for 15" steelies for volvo. They are standard on the 740, 760, 940, 960, 850, s90 before 2000, v90 before 2000. And most of the early 2000's front wheel drive Volvos fits the 240 too. So there is no shortage of 15" wheels for the 240 in the states.
Hey @Gingium make sure you remove the brake pressure warning switch from the distribution block and cap that bung with a plug! The threads are M12x1.0, you'll also need a copper gasket to act as a washer. The rubber o ring on the sensor likes to spontaneously pop out of place, and all of your brake fluid will leak out within minutes. This is exacerbated by hard braking, which you'll be doing with all that power. Same thing happened on my '85 244, stay safe, and happy building!
there should be a rubber thing on the original inner tie rod ends. its a rubber circle thing thats like a "damper" most people dont swap them over and run into the same issue youre having.
You probably threw away part of the inner tie rod boot while thinking it was part of the old boot. There is a little donut rubber that goes inside the boot that slides on the middle of the tie rod.
I used to watch Gingium WAYYYY back when during the Forza 6 videos, then when he switched to working on Molly. I left forever ago and I came back recently and rewatched just about every video between now and then, and I gotta say I missed it so much. You make awesome videos man, and you're a huge inspiration. Thank you ❤️
For the ebrake you should do a dual purpose ebrake like Hoonigan did for the Rolls Royce project. Cylinder on either side of the brake Push forward locks the fronts, pull back and you lock the rears Easy staging burnouts, easy drifts. Full modulation ✌🏻
Your original video's on this car are what inspired me to get a volvo for myself. Have a 91 volvo 245 in a dark red. Unfortunately I don't have any funds to make it speedy but perhaps someday that dream will come true. In the meantime your video's are enough :)
@@brysonshires9742 This. They're SO rugged, just find a stock turbo car at the junk yard, swap the everything, throw a big Holset turbo off a Cummins diesel Dodge from the junk yard while you're there. That'll push 300hp on ethanol for sure.
I think your going to want to switch the hydro and the solenoid around. In my experience you want to be able to slip the rear wheels when treeing/launching and you want the solenoid to be the on off switch/line lock for the water box/burnout. Plus you get the hydro for skids
You should double check the brake block, or just ditch. It has a balance piston in it that is designed to cut off some circuits if they are not balanced in pressure in the case that one of two lines to the front brakes broke you would still have brake pressure.
Fyi, your lower ball joints are for a non power assisted steering rack. The ones for the power assisted rack is offsetted forward and are different left to right which as a bonus gives you more caster 😎
Doggin’ on RockAuto quite a bit. I get it, but it’s kinda on you. Gotta do your research. Quality, however, we can agree on. Love the build. Love your progress. You are definitely “building” a lot more these days and your work is quality, when you can dedicate the time.
I am glad the BNE stuff worked for you, looks like you got the updated version of the offset strut mount. Looks like the saving grace was that you used smaller diameter springs, the earlier versions would not allow for proper camber when using stock diameter springs (despite me asking that very question before purchasing). Terrible customer service, ended up with $400 paperweights. I recommend the Retro Trubo strut mounts, they may not be as fancy looking but they get the job done.
Never had an issue with rockauto i would consider before buying a part lookin at the info they always have a measurment page that says everything i was looking for an ls pilot bearing if i wouldnt check all the info i would ordered it wrong tho… so rockauto shop rockauto cautiously
I agree. RockAuto is hit and miss when it comes to parts. Great for everyday repairs (EVAP,Brakes) that have to be replaced at least once in a cars life. But big bits, (whole steering racks,gas tanks),old cars and gaskets. They suck, I can’t think of how many parts I’ve sent back to them because of some random screw up on their part
I'd have to disagree, rock auto has repeatedly sent me bad parts but they have a decent enough return policy for me to still gamble it at times. For some cars it's way worse than others. Every order for my current car ended up being returned or thrown away, but I used plenty of parts from them to rebuild an rd1 CR-V that I flipped a week later
The blue cap on the tie rod end needs to be removed and you bought the wrong boot for the type rack you have! Larger front and rear sway bars and an adjustable panhard bar are available through IPD in Oregon. Hit the junk yards for the wheels you want.
@gingium what you’re going to want to look for is a set a volvo Canopus wheels, theyre 17 wheels but they fit the 240 perfectly. Let me know if you’d like a picture of a blue wagon on them I have them on mine. They came on Volvo s80’s.
2:30 thats the standard boot style. Youre missing the stock rubber plug grommet that goes on the tie rod. its donut shaped and it sits in that little machined recess on the tie rod you see there. It does the same exact thing you did with the tape there lmao.
I know this has been said many times, but every time I watch one of your videos I am thoroughly impressed by what you are doing. Especially when I remember that only a few years ago you were making Forza comparison videos and never made any actual car modifications. Keep up the great work!
Awsome work 👍 about the rims, in sweden we use to take peugeot 407 or xc90 wheels, think both of them are 17” wich is perfect on a 240 (if u want the steel type of wheel) and make them 8-8.5 inch Wide
And idea on the brakes. The line lock can be used to disarm the rear brake. Flip switch actives solenoid and block off rear brakes now the brake pedal only controls front brakes. But with switch off brake pedal works all for brakes. Then plumb the hand brake through the additional bypass that the line lock solenoid has so you can pull the hand brake for rear brakes when needed.
What about one hydro with 2 cylinders opposite to each other so you can either push or pull the hydro for front or rear effect @gingium seems like the best of both worlds
To be correct you should torque wheel bearing nut to specs when turning whole front hub - that what greenbook and bentlay says ;) The rest of the instructions are correct
Volvo's man....I've never seen a ball joint, that bolts into a bracket...that bolts into the hub...and also bolts into a bracket...that bolts into the arm. The over-engineering(and serviceability tbf) is INSANE
The old clip at the end of v1.0 excites me even more about this build. Always been a fan of sleepers and I can't wait for you to roll up and surprise people!😂
Do yourself a favor and buy a set of "taxiplattor", the little brackets that hold the lower ball joint in the strut. They push the lower part further out increasing negative camber and make the old boat more fun to drive in the corners.
Just a little advice on packing a bearing better..put the grease on the palm of you hand and work the bearing over it packing it full of grease till it pushes out on the other side
I know it might not be necessary right now but IPD sells a whole sway bar kit with solid bushing and no extra metal piece and then the sway bars are more solid ig but I’ve heard it super worth it for even just a stock b230 240, I only used the sway bar bushings and it was way stiffer.
I set my line lock solenoid to isolate rear brakes but still have full time use of front brakes. Solenoid on (rear brakes removed) in water box, roll the sumbitch out of the water box and then turn solenoid off (rear brakes operate again). I actually run 2 sets of rear calipers with the second set operated by hydro handbrake because I’m a pretty cool kid yknow. The thought of hydro fronts scares me tbh
Yeah those Volvo dual line dual piston from calipers suck lol.. I put slotted rotors on the ford 8.8 hubs on the back and have my hydraulic handbrake hooked to them. Stops on a dime with that!! Mines just a 5.3 with cam, heads, headers, and tbss intake. But with the RS5R30A Nissan trans and 3.73 locked in the rear it's def fun.
Watching from the land down under 🇦🇺 love the build. My 240 wagon needs some work so this stuff keeps me motivated and also broke at the same time 😂 keep killing it mate
You have got the wrong gaiters. There are two types of steering racks for 240s (three if you count the manual rack), and I don't know if you should blame Rock Auto for this. I would however say that they should include the little rubber donuts with the gaiters. But I think they are included with the inner tie rods, IF you buy the correct ones. EDIT: J M described it beautyfully further down in the comments.
Need to put in a DRIVE SHAFT SAFETY HOOP , just in case it breaks and takes out the bottom of the car or worse breaks the fuel line or make the car fly in the sky
Just have a lug pattern adapter machined up, you're running a big enough spacer that you could accommodate an adapter. Then you can go to any lug pattern you want!
Honestly I've never had an issue with them. If anything just need to make sure you pick the right option for parts. I doubt you messed anything up but I have noticed sometimes they have so many options. Again. Fridge full of magnets on all 3 sides. No issues yet.
You will need a lot of spacer for FWD wheels, they don't fit on the RWD ones, I've tested V70 wheels on the 240 I had, without space you don't even get the wheels on properly, as the rim hits against the damper. That said I was testing aluminum wheels not steelies, maybe the steelies could fit? But I'd suggest checking out the turbobricks forum if you haven't already, they're mostly US based and got a lot of tips and such, and if I recall correctly, I think the 940/V90 actually got up to 17" steelies, so steelies from other RWD models than the 240 could maybe work? Or just 740/760 ones for that matter as I think those are 16" Going off of memory though, which I don't always trust thanks to ADHD, but I seem to recall swapping steelies for my winter tires on the 240 I had, as it was cheaper and easier to find studded tires for the larger steelies than the stock ones for my 240 as they were a small and outdated size.
How to pack wheel bearings properly: Place a blob of grease on the palm of your weak hand, put a finger or two in the bearing from the smaller side, force the grease to come all the way through the race to the other side. Bearing-packing lesson complete.
you can probably remove the roof rack and change the rear-view mirrors and the 245 will be both faster and better in the wind tunnel test if now a shoebox can be better 😉
Why don't u use them in reverse like the solenoid to keep the pressure in the front brake lines by pressing a button on the steering wheel and use the hydro on the back?
Would it not be better to run some banded steels basically change the offset of the wheel and widen it, but still looks oem, a company in England does them
Man, the underside of this brick is looking fantastic! I would love to have a similar setup in my Canadian 245! But I am beyond too stupid for electrical work. Haha. Maybe someday!
It's so funny to see the car (same body, colour etc) that transported me growing up being worked on! Gotta ask, why did you put hoses on the rear calipers? I'm thinking, solid axle, only flexible link should be from body to axle, not from the axle to the calipers.
Even the classic 5 spoke Volvo rims or multi spoke in the old 240Glt would go well with your sleeper. Btw what are you doing to keep the lighter tail end from fish tailing with all that power.?
I'm telling you the underside of that Volvo is awesome! ditch the sleeper look and just make the whole car a clean car. plus no issues if you get different wheels.
@@tabs5941 because Caleb did such a great job underneath the engine and underside. If he fixes up the whole wagon it would look sick. Also the wagon is basically already a drag car.
$20k with rockauto for 7 of my vehicles in the past 6 months and my first issue with anything was found today, and it's the fault of the manufacturer of the parts, not rockautos fault. I found a $8 workaround (and spent another $75 because the deals were too good 🤣) so it's all good. I know on some of my vehicles there are parts specific to a certain date in the model year that a change was made, or like the toyotas there are different parts for same years USA made VS Japan made.
Y’all need to start collecting up the appropriate hippy bumper stickers, for camouflage. Is that rear axle / rear suspension going to be up to the power level you’re aspiring too?
Are you by chance coming up to Tougefest this year? I just moved to the Alpharetta area and would love to help out! I work mostly out of Speed Foundry in Roswell.
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Omg, can we just take a minute to appreciate the amount of care on all the little details that it is put onto this build, it’s simply gorgeous. That plus the quality of the editing and music makes it a masterpiece to watch.
If this is a joke I would "-🤖🤖🤖", anyway cool that you enjoy this channel
Thank you 🥲❤
Indeed!
I've got spray paint and electrical tape too
@@_Gingium_ thanks to you for providing such masterpiece to enjoy ❤️
There are 2 different styles of steering racks for these cars (CAM and ZF). They use different tie rods and ends as well as boots. Some of the tie rods have a rubber bushing that slides on where the accordion boot can be affixed to.
this guy Volvos.
@@greg.marchand definitely a rök head
@@greg.marchand 🤫😉
Hahaha thank you so much. I’ll get the right ones ordered while the electrical tape wears out.
Yeah, that's the thing with rockauto, if you don't get the right part, it's usually your own fault 😅
The underside is beautiful! Probably one of the biggest flexes on any car is a beautiful suspension and drivetrain
If you look for 15" steelies for volvo. They are standard on the 740, 760, 940, 960, 850, s90 before 2000, v90 before 2000.
And most of the early 2000's front wheel drive Volvos fits the 240 too. So there is no shortage of 15" wheels for the 240 in the states.
Hey @Gingium make sure you remove the brake pressure warning switch from the distribution block and cap that bung with a plug! The threads are M12x1.0, you'll also need a copper gasket to act as a washer. The rubber o ring on the sensor likes to spontaneously pop out of place, and all of your brake fluid will leak out within minutes. This is exacerbated by hard braking, which you'll be doing with all that power. Same thing happened on my '85 244, stay safe, and happy building!
there should be a rubber thing on the original inner tie rod ends. its a rubber circle thing thats like a "damper" most people dont swap them over and run into the same issue youre having.
You probably threw away part of the inner tie rod boot while thinking it was part of the old boot. There is a little donut rubber that goes inside the boot that slides on the middle of the tie rod.
I used to watch Gingium WAYYYY back when during the Forza 6 videos, then when he switched to working on Molly. I left forever ago and I came back recently and rewatched just about every video between now and then, and I gotta say I missed it so much. You make awesome videos man, and you're a huge inspiration. Thank you ❤️
add some turbskis
Same bro, long time!
I thought the same thing, you put it in better words though
Forza 6 to driveway mechanic to a full on shop. Best youtuber glow up
You unlocked a memory, I followed him for his forza videos and I totally forgot when he switched to irl videos
For the ebrake you should do a dual purpose ebrake like Hoonigan did for the Rolls Royce project. Cylinder on either side of the brake
Push forward locks the fronts, pull back and you lock the rears
Easy staging burnouts, easy drifts. Full modulation
✌🏻
Your original video's on this car are what inspired me to get a volvo for myself. Have a 91 volvo 245 in a dark red. Unfortunately I don't have any funds to make it speedy but perhaps someday that dream will come true. In the meantime your video's are enough :)
Find you a totaled factory turbo car and it'll be a smooth process 🙂
@@brysonshires9742 This. They're SO rugged, just find a stock turbo car at the junk yard, swap the everything, throw a big Holset turbo off a Cummins diesel Dodge from the junk yard while you're there. That'll push 300hp on ethanol for sure.
Sheeeeeesh this Volvo is getting cleeeaaan!
For your steel wheel issue, check out Detroit steel wheel they can custom make some for you
Nice craftsmanship, Gingium! Its fun to see you in a setting with good tools and good work area. Your skills are growing so fast.
I think your going to want to switch the hydro and the solenoid around. In my experience you want to be able to slip the rear wheels when treeing/launching and you want the solenoid to be the on off switch/line lock for the water box/burnout. Plus you get the hydro for skids
You should double check the brake block, or just ditch. It has a balance piston in it that is designed to cut off some circuits if they are not balanced in pressure in the case that one of two lines to the front brakes broke you would still have brake pressure.
Fyi, your lower ball joints are for a non power assisted steering rack. The ones for the power assisted rack is offsetted forward and are different left to right which as a bonus gives you more caster 😎
👍🏻
IPD sway bars would of made a HUGE difference . Really helped on my 240 , better than anything else
Doggin’ on RockAuto quite a bit. I get it, but it’s kinda on you. Gotta do your research. Quality, however, we can agree on.
Love the build. Love your progress. You are definitely “building” a lot more these days and your work is quality, when you can dedicate the time.
Take a moment to appreciate the editing in sync with the music at 8:50. Killer quality, Caleb!
I am glad the BNE stuff worked for you, looks like you got the updated version of the offset strut mount. Looks like the saving grace was that you used smaller diameter springs, the earlier versions would not allow for proper camber when using stock diameter springs (despite me asking that very question before purchasing). Terrible customer service, ended up with $400 paperweights. I recommend the Retro Trubo strut mounts, they may not be as fancy looking but they get the job done.
Never had an issue with rockauto i would consider before buying a part lookin at the info they always have a measurment page that says everything i was looking for an ls pilot bearing if i wouldnt check all the info i would ordered it wrong tho… so rockauto shop rockauto cautiously
I had orders head gaskets for a 6.1 hemi and they sent me ones for a 5.7
I agree. RockAuto is hit and miss when it comes to parts. Great for everyday repairs (EVAP,Brakes) that have to be replaced at least once in a cars life. But big bits, (whole steering racks,gas tanks),old cars and gaskets. They suck, I can’t think of how many parts I’ve sent back to them because of some random screw up on their part
I'd have to disagree, rock auto has repeatedly sent me bad parts but they have a decent enough return policy for me to still gamble it at times. For some cars it's way worse than others. Every order for my current car ended up being returned or thrown away, but I used plenty of parts from them to rebuild an rd1 CR-V that I flipped a week later
Had a few. But it really isn't their fault. They sell they dont manufacture.
The blue cap on the tie rod end needs to be removed and you bought the wrong boot for the type rack you have! Larger front and rear sway bars and an adjustable panhard bar are available through IPD in Oregon. Hit the junk yards for the wheels you want.
@gingium what you’re going to want to look for is a set a volvo Canopus wheels, theyre 17 wheels but they fit the 240 perfectly. Let me know if you’d like a picture of a blue wagon on them I have them on mine. They came on Volvo s80’s.
2:30 thats the standard boot style. Youre missing the stock rubber plug grommet that goes on the tie rod. its donut shaped and it sits in that little machined recess on the tie rod you see there. It does the same exact thing you did with the tape there lmao.
There are two different racks, looks like he ordered the bellows for a ZF rack. it may be twice as much but MOOG K9882 should fit it.
I know this has been said many times, but every time I watch one of your videos I am thoroughly impressed by what you are doing. Especially when I remember that only a few years ago you were making Forza comparison videos and never made any actual car modifications.
Keep up the great work!
Awsome work 👍 about the rims, in sweden we use to take peugeot 407 or xc90 wheels, think both of them are 17” wich is perfect on a 240 (if u want the steel type of wheel) and make them 8-8.5 inch Wide
I'm so excited for this! It's so close to being ready to drive. I can't wait to see you put down some fat times at the drag strip.
And idea on the brakes. The line lock can be used to disarm the rear brake. Flip switch actives solenoid and block off rear brakes now the brake pedal only controls front brakes. But with switch off brake pedal works all for brakes. Then plumb the hand brake through the additional bypass that the line lock solenoid has so you can pull the hand brake for rear brakes when needed.
BNE is awesome, highest quality volvo stuff for sure, i run a lot of their suspension parts
😁
2:30 there is another rubber piece thats supposed to go inbetween
What about one hydro with 2 cylinders opposite to each other so you can either push or pull the hydro for front or rear effect @gingium seems like the best of both worlds
To be correct you should torque wheel bearing nut to specs when turning whole front hub - that what greenbook and bentlay says ;) The rest of the instructions are correct
Volvo's man....I've never seen a ball joint, that bolts into a bracket...that bolts into the hub...and also bolts into a bracket...that bolts into the arm. The over-engineering(and serviceability tbf) is INSANE
Yeah i did a wheel bearing once expected it to take all weeked. Done and ready to drive in 45mins
The old clip at the end of v1.0 excites me even more about this build. Always been a fan of sleepers and I can't wait for you to roll up and surprise people!😂
My dude, as a fellow Brick enthusiast, FCP Euro or IPD. The Swedish wonder box don't fuck with no Rock Auto.
This build has such a cool aesthetic of old parts, refurbished parts, and new parts. It looks so good! Can't wait to see it rip!
Do yourself a favor and buy a set of "taxiplattor", the little brackets that hold the lower ball joint in the strut. They push the lower part further out increasing negative camber and make the old boat more fun to drive in the corners.
Just a little advice on packing a bearing better..put the grease on the palm of you hand and work the bearing over it packing it full of grease till it pushes out on the other side
“This video was not brought to you by Rock Auto”
I’ve never had an issue with getting incorrect parts from rock auto that’s so crazy to see for me
You should get some ultra light wheels that u can retrofit the hubcaps onto
I know it might not be necessary right now but IPD sells a whole sway bar kit with solid bushing and no extra metal piece and then the sway bars are more solid ig but I’ve heard it super worth it for even just a stock b230 240, I only used the sway bar bushings and it was way stiffer.
Been here since the Forza days and the growth that you've had is amazing.
Just a pointer for wheel bearings next time. You can fill the inside of the bearing with grease using a bearing packer. Love the build!!
Don't forget a driveshaft loop
a common trick in Sweden is to use two anti-roll bars on top of each other, works perfekt. You just need to lengthen the two mounts. 👑
I set my line lock solenoid to isolate rear brakes but still have full time use of front brakes.
Solenoid on (rear brakes removed) in water box, roll the sumbitch out of the water box and then turn solenoid off (rear brakes operate again).
I actually run 2 sets of rear calipers with the second set operated by hydro handbrake because I’m a pretty cool kid yknow.
The thought of hydro fronts scares me tbh
FCP euro and IPDUSA are great places to get parts for Volvo.I've used them for years for my 240,940 and my 850 turbo.
So ready to see a V8 volvo hit some "rolling donuts" this thing will be so sick!
Yeah those Volvo dual line dual piston from calipers suck lol.. I put slotted rotors on the ford 8.8 hubs on the back and have my hydraulic handbrake hooked to them. Stops on a dime with that!! Mines just a 5.3 with cam, heads, headers, and tbss intake. But with the RS5R30A Nissan trans and 3.73 locked in the rear it's def fun.
Watching from the land down under 🇦🇺 love the build. My 240 wagon needs some work so this stuff keeps me motivated and also broke at the same time 😂 keep killing it mate
man those stainless sikky parts look so amazing on the interior! This thing is gonna MOVE!
You have got the wrong gaiters. There are two types of steering racks for 240s (three if you count the manual rack), and I don't know if you should blame Rock Auto for this. I would however say that they should include the little rubber donuts with the gaiters. But I think they are included with the inner tie rods, IF you buy the correct ones. EDIT: J M described it beautyfully further down in the comments.
Need to put in a DRIVE SHAFT SAFETY HOOP , just in case it breaks and takes out the bottom of the car or worse breaks the fuel line or make the car fly in the sky
Bne is badass! I have there panhard bar, torque rods, and retro turbo makes camber plates and extended lowers.
You should upgrade to IPD sway bars and chassis stiffeners. Made a difference on my buddies 1983 Volvo 245 wagon.
Just have a lug pattern adapter machined up, you're running a big enough spacer that you could accommodate an adapter. Then you can go to any lug pattern you want!
someone get this man a bearing packer
Honestly I've never had an issue with them. If anything just need to make sure you pick the right option for parts. I doubt you messed anything up but I have noticed sometimes they have so many options. Again. Fridge full of magnets on all 3 sides. No issues yet.
Tip for the rear calipers - they don't move in relation to the rear axle so you can hard pipe direct to them. Only need flexi from body to axle.
So clean man, well done.
You will need a lot of spacer for FWD wheels, they don't fit on the RWD ones, I've tested V70 wheels on the 240 I had, without space you don't even get the wheels on properly, as the rim hits against the damper.
That said I was testing aluminum wheels not steelies, maybe the steelies could fit?
But I'd suggest checking out the turbobricks forum if you haven't already, they're mostly US based and got a lot of tips and such, and if I recall correctly, I think the 940/V90 actually got up to 17" steelies, so steelies from other RWD models than the 240 could maybe work?
Or just 740/760 ones for that matter as I think those are 16"
Going off of memory though, which I don't always trust thanks to ADHD, but I seem to recall swapping steelies for my winter tires on the 240 I had, as it was cheaper and easier to find studded tires for the larger steelies than the stock ones for my 240 as they were a small and outdated size.
I don’t think the master cylinder on the hydro is sized enough for the front calipers… just saying 😅 awesome build tho love it❤
Also 17 inch crown Vic steelies should work flawlessly
@@1997mass Can't use the Volvo hubcaps with 17"s
volvo 855/v70/s70 have 15 steelies! Ford Kuga got 17" steelies!You just grind the center hole bigger!
I love the Volvo Caleb, what an utter beast
Man ur shop is just amazing watching u from all the way from the Middle East..
How to pack wheel bearings properly: Place a blob of grease on the palm of your weak hand, put a finger or two in the bearing from the smaller side, force the grease to come all the way through the race to the other side. Bearing-packing lesson complete.
It looks like those boots you put on your steering rack for the tie-rods might be dust covers for your shocks
YESSSS BOLBOOOOOOO
LETS GO BOLBOOOOOOO
My favourite pokemon
ol volvo head chiming in…. early 2000’s ford fusions run 5x108. base models have steelies and will work with your brembos✌🏼
Awesome videography and detail
I guess the nearest car wrecker has piles of original wheels for a 245... Yes, I live in Sweden. 😜
Two lines coming off of the handbrake with a ball valve you can have front or back or even both
Nice hat, "Chopped"....Go MCM! Love the 240
you can probably remove the roof rack and change the rear-view mirrors and the 245 will be both faster and better in the wind tunnel test if now a shoebox can be better 😉
Amazing content. Working hard isn't easy unless you're good.
If your looking for euro parts, I'm a fan of FCP euro, their warentee is so good it's stupid and their prices are pretty fair if I remember right
I can’t believe I used to watch your forza videos, dope how far you have come
Holy cow what cool build!
Why don't u use them in reverse like the solenoid to keep the pressure in the front brake lines by pressing a button on the steering wheel and use the hydro on the back?
Would it not be better to run some banded steels basically change the offset of the wheel and widen it, but still looks oem, a company in England does them
You are supposed to stake the inner tie rods..
Also is there an answer to how that 8.8 is in there without the one side being shortened?
Thanks to this episode's sponsor, RockAuto!
Man, the underside of this brick is looking fantastic! I would love to have a similar setup in my Canadian 245! But I am beyond too stupid for electrical work. Haha.
Maybe someday!
I think I'm the only one from Saudi Arabia still watching you since forza days. keep going my favorite youtuber 😊.
Any water jet, diy chassis brace plans? So the Volvo doesn’t get torqued like a Fritos honey bbq twist
It's so funny to see the car (same body, colour etc) that transported me growing up being worked on!
Gotta ask, why did you put hoses on the rear calipers? I'm thinking, solid axle, only flexible link should be from body to axle, not from the axle to the calipers.
there supposed to be a little bushing there on the tie rod, but you got cam rack tie rods
Even the classic 5 spoke Volvo rims or multi spoke in the old 240Glt would go well with your sleeper. Btw what are you doing to keep the lighter tail end from fish tailing with all that power.?
slightly off piste question from uk. when you built your off road miata what or where did the wide arches come from please.
Such a cool build! Makes me want to start working on the LS swap for my 81 Trans Am!
I'm telling you the underside of that Volvo is awesome! ditch the sleeper look and just make the whole car a clean car. plus no issues if you get different wheels.
@@tabs5941 because Caleb did such a great job underneath the engine and underside. If he fixes up the whole wagon it would look sick. Also the wagon is basically already a drag car.
You should do a drag and drive…nice to have the volvo back
This is really some great content man.
If I remember correctly, Volvo had a hard rubber bushing on the tie rod the took up the space of the opening of the outside end of the boot stock
im wondering with the steel wheels if you need brake cooling
$20k with rockauto for 7 of my vehicles in the past 6 months and my first issue with anything was found today, and it's the fault of the manufacturer of the parts, not rockautos fault. I found a $8 workaround (and spent another $75 because the deals were too good 🤣) so it's all good. I know on some of my vehicles there are parts specific to a certain date in the model year that a change was made, or like the toyotas there are different parts for same years USA made VS Japan made.
does that solenoid work like a kind of parking brake? what is the purpose of that little thing?
Sts machining has some high-quality mods for our volvos aswell. You'll be surprised what's made stateside for us
Y’all need to start collecting up the appropriate hippy bumper stickers, for camouflage.
Is that rear axle / rear suspension going to be up to the power level you’re aspiring too?
Are you by chance coming up to Tougefest this year? I just moved to the Alpharetta area and would love to help out! I work mostly out of Speed Foundry in Roswell.