If you want to remove the taper that comes from forming it on the mandrel, you can size up that last size by hammering it on a socket instead of a mandrel. The trick is to have the ring a smidge smaller than the socket and then hammer the socket through the inside of the ring. The chamfer on the socket and the taper inside the ring make this operation possible. Then hold the socket in a vise with the ring around it and hammer to size just as you'd do with a mandrel.
That is frigging awesome I absolutely love it. I had no way you could melt down those single ingots. I have a powerful butane torch wirh small flame outlet. I have seen other jewellers use it. Do you think it would work? 24k is soft as can be. I can't get over how you made that. It is so impressive. From a local jewellers here £900 easy for a single 5gram 24kbgold ingot £300 what a saving
GIVEN: My understanding of flux is that it is used to quell the formation of oxidation and other atmospheric gases interactions with metals that are being heated. When the heated flux shields the metal, it prevents these contaminations that would otherwise jeopardize the structural integrity of the "joint". GIVEN: Gold doesn't interact with any atmospheric gases, even in the liquid phase. THEREFORE: No need to use a flux with fusing 24k gold.
Using the "base" metal (in this case: 24k gold) is the only way to "fuse". Using a lower karat gold, which probably has a lower melting point, is technically a solder, because the base metal now has a lower karat solder in-between the two sides. A real "fused joint" requires the base metal to melt and solidify with only the base metal. I use 24k dust and chips to add extra metal to the joint but I technically don't need to. I could just let the two ends melt and solidify. Using the beneficial melting properties of a lower karat gold is cheating if advertised as a "fused joint"
Charcoal block. Theoretically... pure carbon. Low coefficient of thermal conductivity. Wet with water to prevent combustion. Re-wet after every flame. I dug a hole to allow the gold to sit in without risking a mess!
I do all my gold melting work on solid charcoal blocks. They're found on Amazon or specialty jewelry tool sites. Gold doesn't get fouled by charcoal, so it keeps everything clean. If I'm not getting up to the melting point, I sometimes work on a vermiculite board, which is super heat resistant. But melting silver/gold on vermiculite will foul the metal with yucky flakes.
@@mustachemetalworks awesome reply thank you so much! Really want to get into this but can't afford all the equipment up front. Thinking of sand casting sterling silver in the meantime... Is that a good option or is the quality not up to par?
I also found that fusing is a butt-clencher for sure 😆, though far preferable than using solder and 'contaminating' a pure piece imo!! EDIT: BTW I found that sticking a wad of ceramic-wool through the middle of the ring makes it 'safer' to heat from the outside, gives it support so it doesn't collapse
I'm happy to hear that fusing is universally terrifying. Good trick with the ceramic; do you find that it clings to the metal after melting? I would hate to foul gold for the sake of easy fusing. I would prefer some carbon based material, like a piece of jewlers charcoal cut-to-fit, but thats a pain in the rear-end to manufacture.
@@mustachemetalworks only time it clings slightly (like literal tiny fibers on the surface) to the gold/silver is when it’s completely melted (or if borax is used, naturally), and is very easily removed as simple as being able to be rubbed off by hand once it cools, or pickling for ~15sec (even including borax). No problem at all if annealing or fusing 👍
That surely is a very manly, beefy, brawny ring. I'm sure the client loves it!
Sir help me I need a gold planner iron I like that work if available in ur shop how much
If you want to remove the taper that comes from forming it on the mandrel, you can size up that last size by hammering it on a socket instead of a mandrel. The trick is to have the ring a smidge smaller than the socket and then hammer the socket through the inside of the ring. The chamfer on the socket and the taper inside the ring make this operation possible. Then hold the socket in a vise with the ring around it and hammer to size just as you'd do with a mandrel.
That is frigging awesome I absolutely love it. I had no way you could melt down those single ingots. I have a powerful butane torch wirh small flame outlet. I have seen other jewellers use it. Do you think it would work? 24k is soft as can be. I can't get over how you made that. It is so impressive. From a local jewellers here £900 easy for a single 5gram 24kbgold ingot £300 what a saving
Great to see you again!!! I missed your videos!!!
Thanks for the warm welcome back!
I've been busy making other big things happen, and my videos had to take the back seat.
welcome back! hope to see more vids in the future
Very nice video!!!! Does scratches from everyday wear on 24k gold lowers the weight or remove material?
No doubt. Theoretical abrasive material loss is inevitable
Have you tried a liquid flux to fuse the 24k gold?
Great video, thanks!
GIVEN: My understanding of flux is that it is used to quell the formation of oxidation and other atmospheric gases interactions with metals that are being heated. When the heated flux shields the metal, it prevents these contaminations that would otherwise jeopardize the structural integrity of the "joint".
GIVEN: Gold doesn't interact with any atmospheric gases, even in the liquid phase.
THEREFORE: No need to use a flux with fusing 24k gold.
You’re the only person I’ve seen use 24k to fuse at the end. Anyone know why jewelers use lower karat gold to fuse?
Using the "base" metal (in this case: 24k gold) is the only way to "fuse".
Using a lower karat gold, which probably has a lower melting point, is technically a solder, because the base metal now has a lower karat solder in-between the two sides.
A real "fused joint" requires the base metal to melt and solidify with only the base metal.
I use 24k dust and chips to add extra metal to the joint but I technically don't need to. I could just let the two ends melt and solidify.
Using the beneficial melting properties of a lower karat gold is cheating if advertised as a "fused joint"
Awesome job. Thanks for sharing
Iron gold plainer sir to order about that tools
That was awesome!
This is so satisfying.
What is the surface you melt the gold on? Thank you
Charcoal block. Theoretically... pure carbon.
Low coefficient of thermal conductivity.
Wet with water to prevent combustion. Re-wet after every flame.
I dug a hole to allow the gold to sit in without risking a mess!
@@mustachemetalworks Thank you! Can you melt gold on top of a clean anvil?
Trust me, that's not a good idea. The anvil will soak up the torch heat and you'll end up with a hot anvil and a warm piece of gold.
Your father is one of my teachers he is fun
That is a very very nice ring well done 👍
What’s a good site to buy all the equipment? I need to mount gold and silver and molds to make jewelry?
Try RioGrande and Amazon
@@mustachemetalworks thank you
I’d rather have it polished
Semangat beraktifitas sahabat baik, itu pekerjaan yang membutuhkan kesabaran ektra.. 👍👍
That gold looks good enough to eat!
I've tried to nibble it but my friend slapped me because it was still on his hand.
What is the block your heating the gold on
I do all my gold melting work on solid charcoal blocks. They're found on Amazon or specialty jewelry tool sites. Gold doesn't get fouled by charcoal, so it keeps everything clean.
If I'm not getting up to the melting point, I sometimes work on a vermiculite board, which is super heat resistant. But melting silver/gold on vermiculite will foul the metal with yucky flakes.
@@mustachemetalworks awesome reply thank you so much!
Really want to get into this but can't afford all the equipment up front.
Thinking of sand casting sterling silver in the meantime... Is that a good option or is the quality not up to par?
@@HarrisTRT I've never done casting, so I can't comment as an expert, but I would say that it's very very different quality than forged work.
Remember god even in your work
Remember your work is not god
🎉
Beautiful
thank you!
I also found that fusing is a butt-clencher for sure 😆, though far preferable than using solder and 'contaminating' a pure piece imo!!
EDIT: BTW I found that sticking a wad of ceramic-wool through the middle of the ring makes it 'safer' to heat from the outside, gives it support so it doesn't collapse
I'm happy to hear that fusing is universally terrifying.
Good trick with the ceramic; do you find that it clings to the metal after melting? I would hate to foul gold for the sake of easy fusing. I would prefer some carbon based material, like a piece of jewlers charcoal cut-to-fit, but thats a pain in the rear-end to manufacture.
@@mustachemetalworks only time it clings slightly (like literal tiny fibers on the surface) to the gold/silver is when it’s completely melted (or if borax is used, naturally), and is very easily removed as simple as being able to be rubbed off by hand once it cools, or pickling for ~15sec (even including borax). No problem at all if annealing or fusing 👍
1;50 how the fck did that go so easy. Im trying for /m2 hours now to open uo my unicore certificate. These things are unbrakeble
Did You Just Fart At 24:05?
Yeah We Got A Toot.
Ya bois gotta toot sometimes
I love this channel 😂
Kitna lemda hai be
This is pure mess work that a child can do even better
Yes! What a terrible mess. Where were the children during quality control? Who allowed this work to see the light of day?