It's really a pleasure to follow you and the way you explain things is so convincing. Communication with you seems so easy. Thank you for every thing. I am from Cameroon.
I haven’t seen this video, but I will, of course. I was scared that the video of the week didn’t arrive last Friday 😳😳😳I told my girl “Reza haven’t post video.” and she said: “Relax… it’s Christ resurrection week… leave the laptop.” 🤣🤣🤣Anyways! Thank you for the lesson Reza.🤓🤓🤓🤓🤓
This was a great video. Thank you so much. I am sure that when I do this I will need to look back at the pad stitching video. These videos are not simple or quick or poor production quality. This is quite the labor of love/ commitment to growing the craft. 🪡🧵
Excellent video as always, thank you for sharing. I wonder though, how warm is the water for soaking the fabric? I'm guessing there's an acceptable temperature range that does not ruin it.
It really helps to watch Part 13 - Padding Stitch | How to Make a Bespoke Jacket at least twice before starting Lesson 15: Canvas Construction - Traditional Method and Pagoda Method.
Hello! Absolutely not. You can however, stretch the edges of the front and back of the pad to allow it to sit better on the shoulder with a forward shape. This is something you have to experiment with for your personal project to get the specifics right. But if you're following the lessons with our materials, do as instructed for best results. If you do the exercises of all relative length techniques that I've demonstrated, you will understand much better what is and isn't possible. Reza
If the pad stitch is not contributing to the shape of the canvas, couldnt the same result be achieved by rows of machine stiches(maybe zick-zack) or simple running or back stiches?If not ,what does the pad stich contributes to the construction of the canvas?
To be specific, the pad-stitch contributes the holding the shape of the canvas, not creating it. Machine stitches or other hand stitches can do the same. However, some stitches, such as straight machine stitches can create channels of bubbles, when the length difference between the materials is severe. This of course depends in which direction or line shape the stitches are applied. When machine stitches are applied inappropriately, they don't allow the longer layer to spread its length evenly across the entire surface, causing breaks or the diffusion of shape. The principle you must be familiar with to better understand the above (in case it sounds abstract) is Relative Layer Length: ruclips.net/video/wSFHhkBCQIU/видео.html Reza
You do not have to worry about the right or wrong side of the interlining canvas. There usually isn't one as both sides of the canvas are finished the same way during the weaving and finishing process. Reza
What do you think about putting a piece of silesia under the canvas when zig zagging the horizontal cut after closing the dart? I would think think that might need some reinforcement if the canvas isn't overlapping there? Maybe cut the silesia on the bias so it can still move side to side?
It will be an unnecessary step. The machine threads will be very strong. Adding a piece of Selisia to the horizontal cut may only be needed if your planning to carry extremely heavy items in your pockets AND use them excessively. Reza
Hello! Yes it is possible, however, I don't usually recommend it. If the thread is not super thin, it will show through on the fabric very easily, depending on what type of cloth you're using. Reza
Hello Reza, first of all, thank you very much for all these wonderful videos! Second, when it is used a double dart in the chest, the canvas has to be cut removing the double dart and cloaing it the same fashion way as you showes in this video?
That depends. If you have a double dart on your front panel, I assume you have good reason for it. For most jackets, a double dart is not a good idea. If however you have a double dart for good reason, I would progress by marking the double dart on the canvas as well and cut it out as I did in the lesson. Closing will indeed be the same. Reza
@@OFFICIALISOT thank you for your answer! The draft would be for a corpulent 48 chest/waist, and the idea would the a double dart on the chest and a single dart at the front seam and at the pocket cut forming like a donlon wedge. I studied this draft in the TC Archibald Whife adaptations for corpulent figure. Does it make sense? I am sorry for my english! Thanks again!
when inserting the wedge would it be possible to pivot the cut to the scye on the hair canvas in order for a simplier way for the wedges not to overlap?
Yes you can do that. It won't make much of a difference as we have already offset the wedge positions for a smooth transition. When choosing between two methods, you must consider the outcome (in this case a smooth transition/less bulk) and the workflow (in this case making the cuts separately instead of making both at the same time) and decide from there. If your workflow is sacrificed for a similar outcome, I would not see that as an improvement. The same holds true if the outcome is sacrificed for a better workflow. It's best to improve both and move forwards. My suggestion would be to try it out and experience it for yourself. You can always fall back on what I've done in the video or even better, improve it according to your needs! Reza
The leg hair oil bit kinda caught me off guard lol. Just curious, isnt typically silk thread used for pad stitching? Of course there's silamide instead of silk these days, but why not use the silamide instead of sewing machine thread?
Most tailors use basting thread. Silk thread is possible but not essential. Machine thread is thin and strong, which makes it a great all-rounder with all the colours available. Reza
Im doing a womens coat in melton wool with shoulder princess seams so the front is two panels. I assume you would cut the canvas in two panels too? But in this instance what about a wedge in the canvas? Is it required for a womans pattern? Ah just seen the video you have on canvassing a womens jacket. Ill watch that :)
Yes, please watch the video on canvassing a women's jacket. And as long as women have hollow shoulders (which most of them have) then yes a wedge in the shoulder is necessary. Unless you deliberately want to ignore it and create an extra large loose fit with a messy look for style. Reza
@@OFFICIALISOT Thanks Reza, the coat I’m doing is a fit and flare style but has around 17cm of total ease in the bust area. I assume the more fitted a garment is, the more there is a need for a shoulder wedge.
@@OFFICIALISOT One follow up question. If on a womens pattern there is a shoulder princess seam would you make the canvass with this seam closed then open it to put in a wedge? Would that not nullify the princess seam which effectively is a dart?
This is an indication that your thread tension needs adjusting. Make sure your needle is sharp and has not bends. The tip should not be damaged. Your top tension must not be any tighter than the bobbin and vice versa. Also, your needle might be inserted wrong or the timing of the machine might be off. But most likely, it is the tension of your threads. I'm sure there are dozens of videos on how to get perfect thread tension on an industrial sewing machine on RUclips. Good luck! Reza
@@OFFICIALISOT But i am talking about zigzag stitch Is it same problem of tension? I already practiced how to adjustment tension by using two different color of thread
I've never soaked canvas before. I assume after soaking the canvas we gently remove the water and roll it up using a dry towel or two, then hang it to dry? I have only found internet postings that say to wash and spin it in a washing machine. Some even say use cold water - very disappointing directions. As always, your video couldn't be better.
Thank you ! Reza and all your team for doing this.
Wow Mr. Reza. You have executed the most beautiful padstitching I have ever seen. Kudos!
It's really a pleasure to follow you and the way you explain things is so convincing. Communication with you seems so easy. Thank you for every thing. I am from Cameroon.
I'm glad you find the explanations easy to follow. Thank you for following our lessons :)
Reza
I love this course, I can't wait for the next lesson. Thank you, Reza.
You're welcome!
Great to have you with us.
Reza
I'm so enjoying, while your way of teaching 😮
When closing the dart im glad you changed your mind about folding the lining on the domette side and all that faffing about
We actually do that on the Pagoda Model!
But I get your point. Which is why I thought that it’s good to show this method as well.
Reza
I haven’t seen this video, but I will, of course. I was scared that the video of the week didn’t arrive last Friday 😳😳😳I told my girl “Reza haven’t post video.” and she said: “Relax… it’s Christ resurrection week… leave the laptop.” 🤣🤣🤣Anyways! Thank you for the lesson Reza.🤓🤓🤓🤓🤓
Haha don’t worry, there will be more resurrections this year.
Your welcome Ken!
Reza
29:11
Great job, keep it up Sir, very informative and effective ❤
Thanks Reza. Like many of my friends here, I waited Friday for the video. You are a true teacher Reza. I am so tuned in. ❤❤❤❤
You are very kind Oraine. Thank you.
Reza
Thank you for doing this.
You’re welcome!
Reza
This was a great video. Thank you so much. I am sure that when I do this I will need to look back at the pad stitching video. These videos are not simple or quick or poor production quality. This is quite the labor of love/ commitment to growing the craft. 🪡🧵
That sounds like a good thing to do. There are many steps involved. Looking forwards to your results!
Reza
Since we're using our fashion fabric thread to pad stitch should we be waxing and ironing the thread before using it?
Not at all. Waxing is not needed for any of these parts.
Reza
Excellent video as always, thank you for sharing. I wonder though, how warm is the water for soaking the fabric? I'm guessing there's an acceptable temperature range that does not ruin it.
Thank you Roger. Good question. As warm as would feel comfortable in a “hot” bath.
Reza
Q vien maestro ....felicidades.......
It really helps to watch Part 13 - Padding Stitch | How to Make a Bespoke Jacket at least twice before starting Lesson 15: Canvas Construction - Traditional Method and Pagoda Method.
Reza, would you recommend adding the wedge to shoulder pad as well?
Hello!
Absolutely not.
You can however, stretch the edges of the front and back of the pad to allow it to sit better on the shoulder with a forward shape. This is something you have to experiment with for your personal project to get the specifics right. But if you're following the lessons with our materials, do as instructed for best results.
If you do the exercises of all relative length techniques that I've demonstrated, you will understand much better what is and isn't possible.
Reza
If the pad stitch is not contributing to the shape of the canvas, couldnt the same result be achieved by rows of machine stiches(maybe zick-zack) or simple running or back stiches?If not ,what does the pad stich contributes to the construction of the canvas?
To be specific, the pad-stitch contributes the holding the shape of the canvas, not creating it.
Machine stitches or other hand stitches can do the same. However, some stitches, such as straight machine stitches can create channels of bubbles, when the length difference between the materials is severe. This of course depends in which direction or line shape the stitches are applied.
When machine stitches are applied inappropriately, they don't allow the longer layer to spread its length evenly across the entire surface, causing breaks or the diffusion of shape.
The principle you must be familiar with to better understand the above (in case it sounds abstract) is Relative Layer Length:
ruclips.net/video/wSFHhkBCQIU/видео.html
Reza
Hello Reza - thank you for the informative and clear video. I am wondering, does a missy women's jacket have the same wedge width as a men's jacket?
If missy has forwards shoulders, then indeed she would need the same wedge on the canvas :)
Reza
Should you do this for something like a wool overcoat with heavy wool ?
thank you for sharing your knowledge. how to distinguish the outer or inner side of the canvas? I am sory my english is bad
You do not have to worry about the right or wrong side of the interlining canvas. There usually isn't one as both sides of the canvas are finished the same way during the weaving and finishing process.
Reza
Can you use tracing paper to transfer marks on other side of the canvas
Yes you can, though it is a fiddly process.
Reza
Thanks
Thank you for the Super Thanks Octavia!🙏 We hope you are enjoying the lessons😄
Reza - when are we going to see you wearing your own bespoke suit?? I'm sure you look terrific in it.
Soon!
Reza
Thank you very much.where is ur place? Do you take offline classes?i am from India
Hello Veena,
We don't do offline classes at the moment.
Reza
What do you think about putting a piece of silesia under the canvas when zig zagging the horizontal cut after closing the dart? I would think think that might need some reinforcement if the canvas isn't overlapping there? Maybe cut the silesia on the bias so it can still move side to side?
It will be an unnecessary step. The machine threads will be very strong.
Adding a piece of Selisia to the horizontal cut may only be needed if your planning to carry extremely heavy items in your pockets AND use them excessively.
Reza
Would using a zigzag when attaching the shoulder wedge be worthwhile to reduce the four ridges that develop from the straight stitch?
Hello!
Yes it is possible, however, I don't usually recommend it. If the thread is not super thin, it will show through on the fabric very easily, depending on what type of cloth you're using.
Reza
As I slowly do my pad stitching I wonder how long it takes a skilled tailor to pad stitch a single chest piece. My guess is 45-50 minutes.
That also depends on the size of the stitches. These can be done within 45-50 minutes per side as you guessed.
Reza
Hello Reza, first of all, thank you very much for all these wonderful videos!
Second, when it is used a double dart in the chest, the canvas has to be cut removing the double dart and cloaing it the same fashion way as you showes in this video?
That depends. If you have a double dart on your front panel, I assume you have good reason for it. For most jackets, a double dart is not a good idea.
If however you have a double dart for good reason, I would progress by marking the double dart on the canvas as well and cut it out as I did in the lesson. Closing will indeed be the same.
Reza
@@OFFICIALISOT thank you for your answer! The draft would be for a corpulent 48 chest/waist, and the idea would the a double dart on the chest and a single dart at the front seam and at the pocket cut forming like a donlon wedge. I studied this draft in the TC Archibald Whife adaptations for corpulent figure. Does it make sense? I am sorry for my english! Thanks again!
when inserting the wedge would it be possible to pivot the cut to the scye on the hair canvas in order for a simplier way for the wedges not to overlap?
Yes you can do that.
It won't make much of a difference as we have already offset the wedge positions for a smooth transition.
When choosing between two methods, you must consider the outcome (in this case a smooth transition/less bulk) and the workflow (in this case making the cuts separately instead of making both at the same time) and decide from there.
If your workflow is sacrificed for a similar outcome, I would not see that as an improvement. The same holds true if the outcome is sacrificed for a better workflow. It's best to improve both and move forwards.
My suggestion would be to try it out and experience it for yourself. You can always fall back on what I've done in the video or even better, improve it according to your needs!
Reza
The leg hair oil bit kinda caught me off guard lol.
Just curious, isnt typically silk thread used for pad stitching? Of course there's silamide instead of silk these days, but why not use the silamide instead of sewing machine thread?
Most tailors use basting thread. Silk thread is possible but not essential. Machine thread is thin and strong, which makes it a great all-rounder with all the colours available.
Reza
Im doing a womens coat in melton wool with shoulder princess seams so the front is two panels. I assume you would cut the canvas in two panels too? But in this instance what about a wedge in the canvas? Is it required for a womans pattern? Ah just seen the video you have on canvassing a womens jacket. Ill watch that :)
Yes, please watch the video on canvassing a women's jacket. And as long as women have hollow shoulders (which most of them have) then yes a wedge in the shoulder is necessary.
Unless you deliberately want to ignore it and create an extra large loose fit with a messy look for style.
Reza
@@OFFICIALISOT Thanks Reza, the coat I’m doing is a fit and flare style but has around 17cm of total ease in the bust area. I assume the more fitted a garment is, the more there is a need for a shoulder wedge.
@@OFFICIALISOT One follow up question. If on a womens pattern there is a shoulder princess seam would you make the canvass with this seam closed then open it to put in a wedge? Would that not nullify the princess seam which effectively is a dart?
The Pagoda model? These videos are coming through very slowly.
Working on it. It will be out this upcoming week.
I know that you're waiting and have you in my mind Michael.
Reza
What happens in the back of the jacket tho
Do you mean how is the back constructed?
Reza
Itu lapisa konstruksi atau lapisan dalamnya jas apa namanya ya? Maaf nanya pakai bhs Indonesia.
It's called a floating canvas where the chest consists of the body canvas horsehair and domette, and the rest is just body canvas alone
1:34:24 Can someone explain why the upper thread keeps breaking or the lower thread comes messed??
This is an indication that your thread tension needs adjusting. Make sure your needle is sharp and has not bends. The tip should not be damaged.
Your top tension must not be any tighter than the bobbin and vice versa.
Also, your needle might be inserted wrong or the timing of the machine might be off. But most likely, it is the tension of your threads.
I'm sure there are dozens of videos on how to get perfect thread tension on an industrial sewing machine on RUclips.
Good luck!
Reza
@@OFFICIALISOT But i am talking about zigzag stitch Is it same problem of tension? I already practiced how to adjustment tension by using two different color of thread
Hello boss, how is this?
I'm in Mali, I wanted to learn sewing.
Hello!
Please visit our website for all the information you need:
www.internationalschooloftailoring.com/
I've never soaked canvas before. I assume after soaking the canvas we gently remove the water and roll it up using a dry towel or two, then hang it to dry? I have only found internet postings that say to wash and spin it in a washing machine. Some even say use cold water - very disappointing directions. As always, your video couldn't be better.
Let it dry naturally. Don’t use a towel. A wire hanger is ideal to hang the canvases on. Let the water drip away until fully dry.
Reza