Not surprised. The problem with any of these broad band light pollution filters is that they only reject Hg and Na lines. With more and more lighting moving to broad band light sources like LEDs, they become pretty much useless
Hey Peter, I'm in downtown Bremerton and find that the L-Quad does not perform to my expectations from my back yard. I can shoot with the L-Extreme and results are superior. Keep up the good work!
Thanks! I'm not buying it, as I'm in bortle 8-9. Just watched a few Cuiv videos on filters. "Think " I'm getting an idea of which filters will give me good results. An honest evaluation like this is very helpful.
My backyard is Bortle 4. Some sky glow from 30k pop. cities nearby. I am using the quad (with ASI294MC Pro) with good results. Even during full moons +/- a few days. My two cents worth is too make the comparison with at least 5+ hours of time on a target. I suspect that is all that is needed for the quad's performance to pull away from the 'no filter' images. The quad has made a BIG difference in the quality of my images. I use either 3 or 5 minute subs for stacked totals from 5 hr. to 14 hrs.
Peter, I am awaiting my scope, mount and camera, but will be beginning to shoot shortly. I am also in the Seattle area (in fact, I live on the eastern side of Seattle where, to the East, Lake Wa forms a hole in the LP bubble, making my yard mostly Bortle 7 (sometimes 6). I am struggling with how to decide which, if any, broadband and narrow band filters to use in western WA on my ff107 and asi2600 air. I would love to get your recommendations! I think I will start to learn without filters, to get a baseline. Hope to get to E. Wa in the spring. Do you have any favorite spots there? I am wasting a lot of time searching google maps. I have a bud with land on the Waterville plateau and will see if I can go there. Love your channel, and have learned a lot. Thanks.
For targets like Horsehead, I feel it's best to shoot no filter then add in HA from the L-extreme to do an HaRGB. Longer integration times definitely helps. I try to aim for a minimum of 6 hours to start and then go back and add additional data later.
Non-narrowband light pollution filters are basically obsolete due to adoption of LED lighting, which has a more broadband emission spectrum than mercury or sodium lamps. (I googled about Bremerton and turned up a city document requiring installation of LED street lights...)
I have the new Antlia quad and got the same results. Wish I didn’t waste the money on a quadband. Better off to just shoot with no filter at all. In a 4.5 zone love the Antlia ALT-P though. Worth every penny.
Hi Peter! We have had pretty good experience from a Bortle 4 with the L-Quad vs No filter. My question for you is this: What filter do you set for the L-Quad in Pixinsight SPCC? I only recently got the software and would very much like to get your feedback!
Excellent video! I also find that filtered images have a red cast to the right side and a blue cast to the left. I see it in some of your examples. No one ever mentioned that in reviews and I wonder why that occurs? My tests are filtered and unfiltered agree with your results.
This maybe an obvious question to most, but I am starting out. Would these filters be strictly for refractor scopes and astro cameras? I have a mirrorless unmodified Canon R7 and a 70-200 2.8L. This is my current starting point. I'm wondering if I could use filters like this in Bortle 1/2 skies on something like an Ra? Also, would this filter be helpful in a Monochrome workflow using ASI2600MM?
What was total exposure time of each nebula? Amd what was each frame time exposure? Because for no filter it is possible you explode the frame if longer frames are taken
The question is that 2600 mc pro already have uv IR cut filter build in Can we add any filter on top of that ? I got Optolong lquad and I’m not happy It turned out as you explain here it is much noise and sho much dust show . Thanks for a great video I wish I watched this video before I bought my filter.
The transmission spectrum looks very close to the Orion skyglow imaging filter. Would work if everyone was still using sodium and mercury vapor lamps, but the ongoing 1:1 replacement with broad spectrum LED lighting makes these more useless over time.
Here's the link for all the master XISF files shown in this video, along with a PDF containing all the photo details: u.pcloud.link/publink/show?code=XZ8Or50ZbQaGwh2Gd8HTHSwTs88350TpSiek I'd also recommend checking out the following review from Intergalactic Astro, he captured some great data with the L-Quad Enhance: ruclips.net/video/b5Z1u8GfOxs/видео.htmlsi=PqWhdYUQV8ZhWwH1
Peter did you test the L-Ultimate filter? I guess the results would be even worse then the L-Quad Enhance since L-Ultimate is a more aggresive filter and lets in only 2 bands of 3nm bandwidth. I was excited about both of these but apparently you need darks skies anyways, so why waste good dark skies on filters.
When I travel to my B3 spot from my home in B9 skies. I don't use any light pollution filter unless the moon is out. But I don travel there when it's high anyway.
Very good comparison! Well done! Better than most of YT videos
Yes, someone once said that the best LPR filter is a tank of gas!
Your videos are among the absolute best in the astrophotography community. Thanks for this review!
Not surprised. The problem with any of these broad band light pollution filters is that they only reject Hg and Na lines. With more and more lighting moving to broad band light sources like LEDs, they become pretty much useless
Thanks Peter for being so honest.
Hey Peter, I'm in downtown Bremerton and find that the L-Quad does not perform to my expectations from my back yard. I can shoot with the L-Extreme and results are superior. Keep up the good work!
Antlia triband is better. Second version will come out soon.
Wow, this is an eye opener, great review.
I am From Bortle 4-5 . I shoot this filter with Samyang 135 and 533mc pro. I have very good results both for broadband targets and Narrowband Target.
Thank you for sharing my Optolong L-Quad Enhance Filter Review I appreciate it.
Outstanding review!
Thanks!
I'm not buying it, as I'm in bortle 8-9. Just watched a few Cuiv videos on filters. "Think " I'm getting an idea of which filters will give me good results. An honest evaluation like this is very helpful.
My backyard is Bortle 4. Some sky glow from 30k pop. cities nearby. I am using the quad (with ASI294MC Pro) with good results. Even during full moons +/- a few days. My two cents worth is too make the comparison with at least 5+ hours of time on a target. I suspect that is all that is needed for the quad's performance to pull away from the 'no filter' images. The quad has made a BIG difference in the quality of my images. I use either 3 or 5 minute subs for stacked totals from 5 hr. to 14 hrs.
Need to test the filter with another camera, remember the 2600 has a IR/UV cut filter. I would like to know how the l-quad compares to the l-pro. 👍
You probably should've also tested with a 533 as well, which doesn't have the uv/ir
Peter, I am awaiting my scope, mount and camera, but will be beginning to shoot shortly. I am also in the Seattle area (in fact, I live on the eastern side of Seattle where, to the East, Lake Wa forms a hole in the LP bubble, making my yard mostly Bortle 7 (sometimes 6). I am struggling with how to decide which, if any, broadband and narrow band filters to use in western WA on my ff107 and asi2600 air. I would love to get your recommendations! I think I will start to learn without filters, to get a baseline. Hope to get to E. Wa in the spring. Do you have any favorite spots there? I am wasting a lot of time searching google maps. I have a bud with land on the Waterville plateau and will see if I can go there. Love your channel, and have learned a lot. Thanks.
Hi Peter,
I have tried the LQE and agree with your findings. Very disappointing alas!
Wow, so you are also a Washingtonian. We are on the same weather cycle :)
that thumbnail is so good!!
Very informative, great explanations, thanks!
For targets like Horsehead, I feel it's best to shoot no filter then add in HA from the L-extreme to do an HaRGB. Longer integration times definitely helps. I try to aim for a minimum of 6 hours to start and then go back and add additional data later.
Non-narrowband light pollution filters are basically obsolete due to adoption of LED lighting, which has a more broadband emission spectrum than mercury or sodium lamps. (I googled about Bremerton and turned up a city document requiring installation of LED street lights...)
Hi Peter, thanks for the unbiased review. Do you think the CLS filters have any place for widefield images or just a waste?
I have the new Antlia quad and got the same results. Wish I didn’t waste the money on a quadband. Better off to just shoot with no filter at all. In a 4.5 zone love the Antlia ALT-P though. Worth every penny.
Hi Peter! We have had pretty good experience from a Bortle 4 with the L-Quad vs No filter. My question for you is this: What filter do you set for the L-Quad in Pixinsight SPCC? I only recently got the software and would very much like to get your feedback!
Thinking of buying one of these. Oh, and just subscribed.
Excellent video! I also find that filtered images have a red cast to the right side and a blue cast to the left. I see it in some of your examples. No one ever mentioned that in reviews and I wonder why that occurs? My tests are filtered and unfiltered agree with your results.
This maybe an obvious question to most, but I am starting out. Would these filters be strictly for refractor scopes and astro cameras? I have a mirrorless unmodified Canon R7 and a 70-200 2.8L. This is my current starting point. I'm wondering if I could use filters like this in Bortle 1/2 skies on something like an Ra?
Also, would this filter be helpful in a Monochrome workflow using ASI2600MM?
I’m north of your location, Okanagan area, the only clear sky’s we had so far this winter were the 5 days it was 27 below zero 😂
What was total exposure time of each nebula? Amd what was each frame time exposure? Because for no filter it is possible you explode the frame if longer frames are taken
The question is that 2600 mc pro already have uv IR cut filter build in
Can we add any filter on top of that ?
I got Optolong lquad and I’m not happy
It turned out as you explain here it is much noise and sho much dust show .
Thanks for a great video
I wish I watched this video before I bought my filter.
Would you say this is worth upgrading from the LnEnhance?
The transmission spectrum looks very close to the Orion skyglow imaging filter. Would work if everyone was still using sodium and mercury vapor lamps, but the ongoing 1:1 replacement with broad spectrum LED lighting makes these more useless over time.
Here's the link for all the master XISF files shown in this video, along with a PDF containing all the photo details:
u.pcloud.link/publink/show?code=XZ8Or50ZbQaGwh2Gd8HTHSwTs88350TpSiek
I'd also recommend checking out the following review from Intergalactic Astro, he captured some great data with the L-Quad Enhance:
ruclips.net/video/b5Z1u8GfOxs/видео.htmlsi=PqWhdYUQV8ZhWwH1
Peter did you test the L-Ultimate filter? I guess the results would be even worse then the L-Quad Enhance since L-Ultimate is a more aggresive filter and lets in only 2 bands of 3nm bandwidth. I was excited about both of these but apparently you need darks skies anyways, so why waste good dark skies on filters.
Nebul A. What is a Nebul A? B S on this video. The L Quad works very well.
you should put a link into the summary of where to buy it. Us noobs see stuff and wanna buy it.
I'm new to the hobby, If you live in an low bortle area do you require a narrow band filter to take pictures of nebulars?
When I travel to my B3 spot from my home in B9 skies. I don't use any light pollution filter unless the moon is out. But I don travel there when it's high anyway.
Optolong filters just didn't work for me. Sold both.
But still nothing for Nikon or Sony cameras and lenses.......