Silverado 5.3 DIY rebuild part 1 - pulling the 230,000 mile engine!

It’s time boys! Pulling the motor on my Silverado due to low oil pressure. I’m going to turn this 5.3 into a beast! Stay tuned for the next episodes as we tear down the engine and rebuild it with some bad ass parts!
Staring Andrew(thanks for the help)
Follow me on Instagram @ harleystillz71
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[@flomondbarnes1578]

Man you reminded me when I first started I pulled a motor in my aunts driveway I had trans fluid every ware boy was she pissed , keep at it it gets better with time .

[@thomasfoster5200]

I didn't know James Franko was a mechanic

[@mohamed_alanze]

your channel will take off keep it up dude 👏🏼

[@harleystillwell7519]

I appreciate that so much thanks man!

[@jedmeltonmusic698]

You could always deflate the tires, I do it a lot while working on tall trucks. Helps a ton man.

[@joshritchie_media]

At least you didn’t have to take off your whole front clip too 😂

[@tickettiger]

From what I been researching… Maybe the motor flush fluid help destroy the gaskets causing leaks or something related to motor flush?

[@ChiefDLK]

Should use a torch on the exhaust bolts if they feel like they are going to break or if you break one. Next time....

[@101Leprecaun]

Induction Bolt Heating tool would be the actual proper tool. More efficient and less chance of damaging anything. Amazon sells cheap ones, but if you have the cash, the ones made by Induction Innovations are the best. They have safety mechanisms built in that prevent the tool from overheating, as well as an anti-shorting feature which shuts the tool down if it were to short on the frame or something. And it works in seconds. I use mine specifically on exhaust manifold bolts at my shop. Makes it came to remove in the rust belt

[@ChiefDLK]

@@101Leprecaun Meh, a torch works the same. It is not hard to not destroy anything else unless you're a d*mba**. Although, the induction heaters do work pretty good too but it doesn't make it the only tool or the "proper tool". What do you think they did before that tool?

[@wasntme3651]

I understand you are changing the gaskets but you can change the oil pump and oring without dropping the pan. Just had it done in a suburban and yes it’s 4x4.

[@jawa6988]

I would very much like to see how you did that! I have a 06 4x4 suburban and the pressure is starting to get low

[@wasntme3651]

@@jawa6988
My mechanic basically took the front end off of my suburban. The radiator and core support,lights etc. everything to where the front of the motor was easily accessible. Then did the job without dropping the pan. New Melling high flow oil pump and o ring. I have around 45 pounds at idle and over 60 on throttle. There’s a few videos on RUclips on how to do it without dropping the pan. Some show that you have to use a Dremel to grind something but my mechanic did not do that. He’s a excellent mechanic and I would of never tried to fix it myself. He saved me a load of cash and gave me a awesome deal. While it was apart I had him change the cam thrust plate also because the gasket can be bad on that sometimes also and it’s only like $40. New water pump and thermostat and timing gears and gears since it was torn down.
Honestly I thought there’s no way he could do it without dropping the pan and I was really sweating it when my front end was in a bunch of pieces on the ground. But here I and some weeks later and over 3000 miles since the fix and it’s running great.

[@hunterwarren8618]

@@jawa6988it is doable. Changed oil pump and pick up tube on a Tahoe tires on the ground

[@21crookedstick]

Dowel pins are like....Not today Man...lol

[@deweybell3529]

Keep it up

[@BIGHEN_]

Man im doing the same. Exact. Thing...same exact, truck, lift etc😂 its sitting down in the shop and im on RUclips lol, my oil pan gasket was leaking too, originally thought it was the rear main seal untill i cleaned everything and ran it to actually see where it was leaking...anyway the motor is sitting in the air, transmission undone, still not enough clearance 🤦🏽‍♂️i was doing everything in my power to Not pull the motor but thats what its coming down to

[@harleystillwell7519]

No way lol, it’s one of those things that sucks until you do it man. I spent a week staring at it before I said okay it’s coming out. Then it was so easy to work on and now I’m happy I did it. It’s overcoming the fact that it’s gotta come out that sucks so bad😂

[@ALCRAN2010]

...cement floors in outbuildings are expensive. Just saying...

[@mikegresham9424]

Compression shot time for new block

[@harleystillwell7519]

😂😂

[@dantmanish]

Hi,, Do you know what the is sensor just behind the rear knock sensor , flat plug that has 1 bolt holding it in ,it pulls out from the top has an o ring on it and is about 3 and a half inches long ,, next to the oil pressure sensor

[@harleystillwell7519]

I’m sorry I can’t pictures which sensor you mean. Should just be the 2 knocks sensors and oil pressure?

[@dantmanish]

@@harleystillwell7519 Hi ,, As it turns out I found out it is the cam positioning sensor ,, next to the oil pressure sensor ,, Thanks

[@dantmanish]

@@harleystillwell7519 I was removing the camshaft bearings and the tool wouldnt slide into the last bearing for removal ,, it was hitting someting , turns out it was hitting the bottom of that sensor ,,so I had to remove it and got the bearing out , but I didnt know what that thing did

[@harleystillwell7519]

Ohhhhh wow that’s kinda crazy. Good find I’m sure that was an annoying issue to figure out lol

[@estebanramos2846]

What lifters did u use and what size pushrods

[@harleystillwell7519]

I used comp cam’s LS7 style lifters and factory pushrods