Hello, I don't know how to thank you. Your video is extraordinary, I just fixed my Apple Cinema Display 24'' which was always going down and it was only with a lot of "on/off" that I managed to get it to work, until today when I couldn't. I found the courage and got to work, following the steps in your video with SUCCESS. THANK YOU VERY MUCH for your video
You’re so welcome! I know a lot of smart folks posted comments about fixing the brightness control (on mine it’s not working), but I’m glad this helped 👍
Man I wish I was aware of your channel when you were live with this. I have actually taken apart the whole display, so I could have given you some info during it, but... Here it is: The mod you did will ultimately kill your backlight because you removed backlight voltage control (brightness) and the "lower than max" brightness" you get is because you are running at max brightness but just 1 or 2 of the 3 independent lines that the LED strip has, the problem with this display is the actual LED strip just as in the 27", but this 24" one has just 1 in the bottom instead of 2 on the sides, it is where the black plate is, the thin black cable you didn't know what it was is a temp sensor, as the whole black plate serves as a heat sink for the strip so if you don't connect that one you will get full fan spin as "protection". There's a technician guide that you can find online that give you some voltage test points in the board and other handy info and steps to troubleshoot. So back to the point, the LED strip was manufactured with lead free solder that cracks over time and the difference in voltages of the 3 lines because of the bad conductivity is what triggers the "protection" that doesn't let the backlight turn on, so you have to reflow the 6pin (3 individual lines) connector and all the individual LEDs in the strip with good solder as recommended in the 27" and it will work again, you MUST undo your board mod though if you don't want full eye piercing and LED burning brightness. So for the disassembling the display part... it is not as scary as you would think, once you unscrew and unclip the whole plastic frame and remove the small plate that shields the connectors you can get the panel out. As for the panel and all it's layers (like 5 or 6) you may be able to remove them all together, at the end the actual LED strip and frame is what you get left. The LED strip is screwed to the frame, and also has a thermal strip that "glues" it together (so be sure to have some new strip 533mm long to be precise) but the most important part is the white plastic it is in also holds it, and you have to be VERY VERY careful with it since it will be very brittle from all the heat of the LEDs over the years, that plastic is mounted to the back and to the border of the frame at the same time and you have to unclip it and remove it in two ways at the same time for it not to break (Also each individual LED has a little dome in it, be careful with those too, as they are also brittle and pop off easily) I ended breaking mine before I understood how to remove it, I didn't mind since the display was already dead when I got it because of a previous repair attempt that went bad and I was just using it as a "practice surgery" before I destroy the one I could actually repair, and I haven't got the time and tools right now to reflow the strip and test it with an external power source.
@@baileydelelys2890 I probably do, since when I was attempting this I was about to make an ifixit guide, but I'll have to dig in my photo library. I'll let you know in a couple of days. But beware, I ended up not managing to fix the LED strips consistently and get them to last and found out some of the board that controls the LEDs to be damaged too so instead I bypassed everything and bought new comercial strips, tapping into a 12v line and modding the whole display frame and difussers to fix them, 2 strips one top and one bottom and experimenting with a few voltage controllers to dim them (that ended up not working that well), but I managed to get both displays working. I had to make a new display cable for the one that was "dead" too since I could not find a replacement cable anymore, but that worked pretty well and allowed me to connect to a normal size display port too.
@@Mac84 That would be even more awesome! The fixed brightness is okay to work with in regular lighting conditions, but being able to adjust it would we even better.
You mean a Mac Pro? The Mac Pros were introduced as a replacement to the G5s in 2006. I potentially could repair them, but they are cheap and plentiful today. I’d suggest going to www.TinkerDifferent.com and making a post about your problem. Maybe someone can help!
The LCD has a series of LEDs below the display. I’ve received details in the comments of other ways to try and fix it. This may work for you, but I haven’t tried it. Essentially, conductive material is breaking down and shorting out the LEDs, causing the flicker.
Hello, i make this hack on my cinema display, he reworks 7 months normally , and yesterday... he flash again like you in the end but my wire is good.. wtf.. have you a idea ? thanks
@@CmichelePerdón por no ver tu pregunta antes. Sí, y me acaba de llegar un segundo monitor con el mismo problema. Voy a intentarlo por segunda vez. Crucemos los dedos. La semana que viene lo intento.
Hello, I don't know how to thank you. Your video is extraordinary, I just fixed my Apple Cinema Display 24'' which was always going down and it was only with a lot of "on/off" that I managed to get it to work, until today when I couldn't.
I found the courage and got to work, following the steps in your video with SUCCESS.
THANK YOU VERY MUCH for your video
You’re so welcome!
I know a lot of smart folks posted comments about fixing the brightness control (on mine it’s not working), but I’m glad this helped 👍
Man I wish I was aware of your channel when you were live with this.
I have actually taken apart the whole display, so I could have given you some info during it, but...
Here it is:
The mod you did will ultimately kill your backlight because you removed backlight voltage control (brightness) and the "lower than max" brightness" you get is because you are running at max brightness but just 1 or 2 of the 3 independent lines that the LED strip has, the problem with this display is the actual LED strip just as in the 27", but this 24" one has just 1 in the bottom instead of 2 on the sides, it is where the black plate is, the thin black cable you didn't know what it was is a temp sensor, as the whole black plate serves as a heat sink for the strip so if you don't connect that one you will get full fan spin as "protection". There's a technician guide that you can find online that give you some voltage test points in the board and other handy info and steps to troubleshoot.
So back to the point, the LED strip was manufactured with lead free solder that cracks over time and the difference in voltages of the 3 lines because of the bad conductivity is what triggers the "protection" that doesn't let the backlight turn on, so you have to reflow the 6pin (3 individual lines) connector and all the individual LEDs in the strip with good solder as recommended in the 27" and it will work again, you MUST undo your board mod though if you don't want full eye piercing and LED burning brightness.
So for the disassembling the display part... it is not as scary as you would think, once you unscrew and unclip the whole plastic frame and remove the small plate that shields the connectors you can get the panel out. As for the panel and all it's layers (like 5 or 6) you may be able to remove them all together, at the end the actual LED strip and frame is what you get left.
The LED strip is screwed to the frame, and also has a thermal strip that "glues" it together (so be sure to have some new strip 533mm long to be precise) but the most important part is the white plastic it is in also holds it, and you have to be VERY VERY careful with it since it will be very brittle from all the heat of the LEDs over the years, that plastic is mounted to the back and to the border of the frame at the same time and you have to unclip it and remove it in two ways at the same time for it not to break (Also each individual LED has a little dome in it, be careful with those too, as they are also brittle and pop off easily)
I ended breaking mine before I understood how to remove it, I didn't mind since the display was already dead when I got it because of a previous repair attempt that went bad and I was just using it as a "practice surgery" before I destroy the one I could actually repair, and I haven't got the time and tools right now to reflow the strip and test it with an external power source.
You wouldn’t happen to have a photo of the white clip would you? I’ve got a 24” and 27” that I’d love to bring back to life
@@baileydelelys2890 I probably do, since when I was attempting this I was about to make an ifixit guide, but I'll have to dig in my photo library. I'll let you know in a couple of days.
But beware, I ended up not managing to fix the LED strips consistently and get them to last and found out some of the board that controls the LEDs to be damaged too so instead I bypassed everything and bought new comercial strips, tapping into a 12v line and modding the whole display frame and difussers to fix them, 2 strips one top and one bottom and experimenting with a few voltage controllers to dim them (that ended up not working that well), but I managed to get both displays working. I had to make a new display cable for the one that was "dead" too since I could not find a replacement cable anymore, but that worked pretty well and allowed me to connect to a normal size display port too.
@@baileydelelys2890 Hey, just to let you know I found the pics. I just don't know how to send them to you.
@thiagodlt make a thread on TinkerDifferent.com - I’d love to check them out too 👍
@@thiagodlt I could make a Dropbox link to put them in
thank your for your work. we are watching your video and finally exactly result! thank you very much bro
Awesome, thank you, my cinema display is back online again. Works perfect.
why do you jumper all 3 resistors at the beginning and then only one?
Man you are the best!! Did everything you did and my display works again! Brilliant, thank you!
Great! I may need to take another look as the brightness control isn’t working and reading some of the smart comments here I can maybe fix that. :-)
@@Mac84 That would be even more awesome! The fixed brightness is okay to work with in regular lighting conditions, but being able to adjust it would we even better.
tks it's worked for me ! best regards.
PS : I didn't remove resistances.
You only did the wire routing?
Thanks Buddy! You save my life!
Hi can someone please tell me the value of R0449 and R0458
Man you are the best, can you repair mac g5 tower type 2008 model?
You mean a Mac Pro? The Mac Pros were introduced as a replacement to the G5s in 2006. I potentially could repair them, but they are cheap and plentiful today. I’d suggest going to www.TinkerDifferent.com and making a post about your problem. Maybe someone can help!
Hey guys maybe Invaliden help me out i did All the steps an its still flickering all 3 or only the one its Not Working plz help me out
The LCD has a series of LEDs below the display. I’ve received details in the comments of other ways to try and fix it. This may work for you, but I haven’t tried it. Essentially, conductive material is breaking down and shorting out the LEDs, causing the flicker.
Hello, i make this hack on my cinema display, he reworks 7 months normally , and yesterday... he flash again like you in the end but my wire is good.. wtf.. have you a idea ? thanks
😭
I’m sorry I’m unsure, it is very difficult to troubleshoot over RUclips. I suggest making a post at www.TinkerDifferent.com
@@Mac84 3.3 volt where you connected?
Grazie ha funzionato
Ciao, ma la 3.3volt da dove l’hai presa?
OMG. I didn't know why i were removing resistors jajajaja. My display works again. Great!!!!!! Thanks a lot.
Hola Sergio! Te funcionó?
@@CmichelePerdón por no ver tu pregunta antes. Sí, y me acaba de llegar un segundo monitor con el mismo problema. Voy a intentarlo por segunda vez. Crucemos los dedos. La semana que viene lo intento.