Thanks for this, invaluable YT service! I’ve just desoldered the reg and will buy another tomorrow. For those about to attempt this, I recommend breaking the top layer off the chip as in this video. That will allow you to get to the middle of the metal layer with your iron, which makes it easier to create enough even heat to then desolder that and push / slide it away with a screwdriver.
Francesco, I just want to thank you one thousand times, I bought my third ACD 23" for 25 euros the other day, it was broken. Thanks to your video I managed to repair it yesterday. It was such a joy when I saw the green light flashing. Things like this one make Internet a great place, this is the best of human-knowledge sharing, amongst a lot of sad and bad things. So: THANKS FRANCESCO, THANKS AGAIN
Just wanted to let you know that this info is still relevant. My 23" display died during a brownout. I followed your instructions, replaced the regulator, and it's working again. I think the problem is that there's a big MOV or TVS near the regulator that's supposed to prevent this problem, but over the years the TVS fails, so I'm expecting to see the same problem again when I have another bad power situation. If that happens, I'll see if I can replace the TVS while I'm at it. Anyway, it's working with a new regulator for now, thanks for posting very clear instructions.
Great! Usually the regulator fails after prolonged use and maybe overheating. So far all the displays I’ve repaired are still working great even after years of daily use
Good Video on taking it apart. My problem is that as long as I hold my finger on the on button the display will stay on, take your finger off and the display goes out. Not sure if the button is suppose to work as a push button on/off or by heat of you finger?
Found one of these at the bin. Had no supply but i picked up 2x 65W supplies from ebay. Guess that is not enough to do the bypass trick. If this works that will be a result. Thanks for the tip.
Good afternoon. Thank you for your video they are very good, very well explained and you learn. Thank you. Please can you tell me how you fix these pixels.
Thank you for this video! I am working on a 23" that did not have the original power supply, so I used a generic 24v 3A power supply and it worked fine for 18 months, now it won't turn on. Last time I turned it on, it flickered, and then went black. No LED flashes or any response. When I plug in the DVI, it is recognized by my mac, even if the power is not plugged in. So I desoldered my DIY power supply, and it tested fine with a multimeter, but no joy for the LED or backlight (and I checked w a flashlight, no picture, so not just backlight). USB also doesn't work. Could it be a voltage regulator inside, or is it more likely blown capacitors or something?
Hello ! I will receive tomorrow from a neighbor an Apple HD Cinema Display model A1082. Do you think that i can use this display trough a hdmi-dvi adaptor ? I have currently a laptop with win 10, i dont have a mackbook since i am a student with a low budget. What advice could you give me ?
Thanks sooo much, monitor now works perfectly. Forewarning to anyone else who tries this, solder requires a high power soldering iron, as my small one couldn’t shift anything Apple originally put on.
Hi Francesco. Thanks for your video. I have a working display but when I replace the plastic side with the power buttons it seems to short out. Works fine sitting on the desk. Any help would be appreciated.
Hi Francesco, this is a great video - thank you for posting it! We were able to diagnose the problem of our monitor with the help of your video: we taped the center pins and the monitor lit back up. Unfortunately, we are lacking the tools to follow through on the full repair immediately. You seem to be very knowledgeable and I am wondering what you opinion is regarding using the monitor with the taped pins in the short term or even long term? Do we risk serious damage to the unit by isolating the pins? Thank you!
In theory this should damage the circuitry inside the monitor (because the output voltage is higher and not lower), but so far I've only seen one monitor fail after the center pin was taped. I'd say it's ok if the monitor does not see much use, on the other hand I would repair it. the replacement component is easy to source and the repair process is very simple.
Thank you for this excellent video Francesco! I was wondering if you might have an idea on a problem I have. I have a very early Apple 30 inch display model M9179LLA. The display will go slightly green and out of focus at the native resolution 2560X1600. On rare occasions the display will return to normal but only lasts an hour or so before returning to the out of focus off color condition at 1280X1600. If I put the resolution to 1280X800 or lower the screen returns to normal from a focus and color standpoint, however putting the monitor back to 2560X1600 puts it back out of focus. Thinking it might be the driver or video adapter I tried another computer and the same conditions still exists. Any ideas on which board or component to check. Like once in a few months or so it will glitch back and be normal but only for an hour or sos before failing again
Hi, Francesco! Regulator voltage is 5 as you ve shown, but first measurements is jumping from 16 to 18 volt between -minus and uf700 yellow Thing. Do I have to replace both regulator and uf700?
Hey Francesco at first hoped your video was my answer. I replaced the side cover that has the power and brightness buttons. Both the old and new controls work - UNTIL I go to stick the side back on. As soon as any of the wiring on the inside of the strip gets near to sticking to the inside metal strip I basically lose all control of the buttons. I've made sure display settings are all correctly enabled. I could always use the keyboard brightness controls and no power button, but it'd be nice just to have the display fully working. Is there some special sequence putting the strip back onto the side? Is there some sort of sensor on the inside of the display that needs matching up?
Hi Francesco! My friend, my 30" Apple Diaplay Monitor has a very dull white (sort of light yellow). I've tried adjusting brightness (from macOS) but it's not the problem. Which PCB controls the brightness/contrast should I need to replace? Thanks!
The display has a CCFL backlight that when it's end of life turns very yellow. usually it gets slightly better after some use if it has been sitting but the only way to fully solve it is replacing the panel or the tubes inside it.
I have the same screen, 31 inch. But it wil flikkering some times. On, off, on off, no display, than again on for a week, an than again problems, Off. I have bring him to Aplle, but they do no longer repairs on this screens. Vintage.... But i think it is just an electronic problem, and "easy" to repair. Can you still find spareparts to repair my screen ?
Hi Francesco, Thank you so much for the video!!! I have 2 30" Apple monitors. One is Micky moused with the scotch tape technique (This monitor is usually off) and the other one is running of a 150 watt brick. I'd like to repair them but since the circuit boards are different I'm worried I may not be able to figure it out! Any help would be greatly appropriated. I subscribed TBW :)
Gabriel Navarro I also have a couple 30” models I need to repair. So far I found out that a dead display might wake up again if there’s a USB device hooked up to it. You may also have a back backlight. You can start by swapping boards between them and see where what follows the problem
didn't fix mine. Any other ideas? Got no voltage on the lower part of the board. When i activate the power button on the display i see 17. something volts come and go on the input cable connection and 24V on the other side i also have some 5V pins and the 3.3V somewhere just under 2V also. The lower caps where the 2x smaller ic's are have no power on them. I was wondering why the 17V disappears. is it the psu shorting out or is it the power switch activating the psu. I didn't have the front led plugged in because of not wanting to throw it all back in the frame, the led on the board never lights 3.3V is good.
Ciao Francesco, ti chiedo un parere: mi è stato regalato un Apple cinema 20 senza psu, ho collegato ad un alimentatore non originale ed ha funzionato alla perfezione. Dopo aver scollegato i due fili li ho inavvertitamente collegati invertiti perché sono daltonico e faccio casino coi colori. Ho provato a collegarli di nuovo nel giusto verso ma non si accende più. C'è qualcosa che posso fare o lo getto nella spazzatura? Grazie mille
Francesco, also forgot to inquire whether the 3.3V regulator is used on the logic board for both the 20'" and 23" models? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
Yes, the component is the same. Actually I think that both boards are identical (they just have different firmware) while the 30 is different (since it has to handle two channels)
Hi Francesco, I'm checking 30" Cinema, have 3.3v ok, then 5v on LM2676S - 5.0 and LM2676S - ADJ has 18.1V. Cinema HD recognized by my 13" macbook but display is black. The left board is a backlight as I understand it, there is 24.66v comes to it along with 3.2v & 4.5v but nothing comes out. I checked all fuzes - all 8 of them (2A) are ok. Power LED is half lit, if I touch power button it comes on brighter then few seconds later back to half lit. All looks clean as good as new. Any suggestions what else can be checked? Is there any schematics? Also, how to check controlling signals to check what actually enables the backlight etc. The story behind is power brick died, now it doesn't turn on. Any advice greatly appreciated!
Hi Francesco, how are you, I got several displays and one of them had the same problem, but as I didn't have the power supply, so I just bought a generic one and connect the wires w/o any group and is working fine..is that a problem? do I need this fix? if so how do I get the regulator? I also have an other display that doesn't turn on the led stars of, but the computers kind of recognize the screen at the display settings. How can I fix? Its 23 apple Cinema Display, and it is in great shape, I really what to fix it..what should I check... no lights come on...tried w/ a good power supply! thanks
I would still replace the regulator, It's cheap and redly available. As for the 23 you may have a damaged cable, if the regulator is fine. some parts are the same with the 20
good morning. thanks for your information. I have a 30 "apple cinema and every once in a while it turns itself off and on. I take the current and put it back and it continues to work. Could it be the same fault that you notice in the video? forgive my english, I speak only spanish and translate it with program. Thank you.
Francesco Ferretti Thank you for your message. Dismantle it by the regulator and it is perfect 3.3v. I have connected two devices to usb as you advise me and it is perfect. Thank you.
I got it from RS, order number 686-9123. it's a LD1117ADT33TR. In this case any 3.3V regulators in a DPAK package that handle 1.2A or more should work.
Mines just blank. The led doesn't come on at all. However following my 3.3 regulator is outputting 5 volts. I presume it's broken. I've ordered new ones but can anyone confirm I'm doing the right thing?
Ciao Francesco, grazie per il video. Sto cercando di riparare il monitor di un amico e ho ti seguito passo per passo. Ma ci credi che quello su cui sto lavorando legge 11.9V invece di 3.3? Pazzesco. Spero di trovare un regolatore in zona domani. Hai qualche altro consiglio, per caso? Saldo senza problemi, ma non sono esperto di elettronica. Grazie!
Se non ricordo male la tensione in ingresso sul regolatore è 5V e non 12. Se hai 12 sull’uscita al posto di 3v3 direi che è altamente probabile che si sia danneggiato qualcos’altro oltre al regolatore.
Ciao Francesco, anche io sto cercando di riparare il mio monitor seguendo il tuo tutorial, ma purtroppo qualcosa non ha funzionato... posso chiederti un parere a riguardo? Innanzitutto non sono riuscito a trovare un regolatore esattamente identico al tuo. L'unico che ho trovato (visivamente identico) ha un codice che inizia con LD1117 ma finisce in modo diverso... sempre da 3.3V comunque. Ho saldato il nuovo regolatore e i voltaggi che leggo sono i seguenti: Pin di destra 5V, pad superiore 3.3V, pin di sinistra 0V. Immagino che quest'ultimo valore sia dove risiede il problema. Hai qualche consiglio a riguardo? Sai consigliarmi dove trovare il regolatore identico a quello che hai usato tu? Grazie mille dell'aiuto!! Pietro
In reità è un 23. Ho provato a sostituire il regolatore di tensione in quanto il led frontale lampeggiava (short-long-short). Adesso se lo collego al mac viene riconosciuto, ma rimane nero (non si accede più nemmeno il led frontale... e ovviamente nemmeno quello sulla scheda madre). Cosa può essere successo?? Consigli?? @@FrancescoF
Francesco Ferretti gli unici cavi che ho staccato sono le due clip che hai mostrato nel video: il led frontale e quello principale dello schermo. Dove si trova il fusibile di cui parli?? Che possa essere un problema di “saldatura” (è la prima volta che ne faccio una del genere)
Hi all and thanks Francesco for this great video. I have a 20" Apple Cinema Display. The white led error signal is not one of the well known ShortLongShort or LongShortLong. I only have the white front led flashing once for 2' as the finger presses the button then nothing else, no more white led signal and no image on screen. I opened it up and checked the Voltage as shown : around 27V in and 3.3 to 3.5 after regulator, so I guess this is fine. Seen no burnt component either. Anyone has an idea what it could be ? Thanks in advance. PhiL.
![COLOMBIA vs. CHILE [4-0] | RESUMEN | ELIMINATORIAS SUDAMERICANAS | FECHA 10](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/TDjN4W3yy1k/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for this, invaluable YT service! I’ve just desoldered the reg and will buy another tomorrow. For those about to attempt this, I recommend breaking the top layer off the chip as in this video. That will allow you to get to the middle of the metal layer with your iron, which makes it easier to create enough even heat to then desolder that and push / slide it away with a screwdriver.
Francesco, I just want to thank you one thousand times, I bought my third ACD 23" for 25 euros the other day, it was broken. Thanks to your video I managed to repair it yesterday. It was such a joy when I saw the green light flashing. Things like this one make Internet a great place, this is the best of human-knowledge sharing, amongst a lot of sad and bad things. So: THANKS FRANCESCO, THANKS AGAIN
Just wanted to let you know that this info is still relevant. My 23" display died during a brownout. I followed your instructions, replaced the regulator, and it's working again. I think the problem is that there's a big MOV or TVS near the regulator that's supposed to prevent this problem, but over the years the TVS fails, so I'm expecting to see the same problem again when I have another bad power situation. If that happens, I'll see if I can replace the TVS while I'm at it. Anyway, it's working with a new regulator for now, thanks for posting very clear instructions.
Great! Usually the regulator fails after prolonged use and maybe overheating. So far all the displays I’ve repaired are still working great even after years of daily use
Thank you very much for this video. I repaired today my Cinema Display following your instructions.
Good Video on taking it apart. My problem is that as long as I hold my finger on the on button the display will stay on, take your finger off and the display goes out. Not sure if the button is suppose to work as a push button on/off or by heat of you finger?
Hola, tengo el mismo problema. Ya lo solucionaste??
Found one of these at the bin. Had no supply but i picked up 2x 65W supplies from ebay. Guess that is not enough to do the bypass trick. If this works that will be a result. Thanks for the tip.
Good afternoon. Thank you for your video they are very good, very well explained and you learn. Thank you. Please can you tell me how you fix these pixels.
Nice work and thanks for sharing. Do you think it will be possible to covert the backlight to LED? You know the CCFL will eventually die sadly lol 😅
Thank you for this video!
I am working on a 23" that did not have the original power supply, so I used a generic 24v 3A power supply and it worked fine for 18 months, now it won't turn on. Last time I turned it on, it flickered, and then went black. No LED flashes or any response. When I plug in the DVI, it is recognized by my mac, even if the power is not plugged in. So I desoldered my DIY power supply, and it tested fine with a multimeter, but no joy for the LED or backlight (and I checked w a flashlight, no picture, so not just backlight). USB also doesn't work.
Could it be a voltage regulator inside, or is it more likely blown capacitors or something?
Thank you Francisco
Hello ! I will receive tomorrow from a neighbor an Apple HD Cinema Display model A1082. Do you think that i can use this display trough a hdmi-dvi adaptor ? I have currently a laptop with win 10, i dont have a mackbook since i am a student with a low budget. What advice could you give me ?
Thanks sooo much, monitor now works perfectly. Forewarning to anyone else who tries this, solder requires a high power soldering iron, as my small one couldn’t shift anything Apple originally put on.
Do you have any experience with Apple Cinema Display 24" ? I have black screen on it and is not recognized by my Mac Pro... but USB is working...
Hi Francesco. Thanks for your video. I have a working display but when I replace the plastic side with the power buttons it seems to short out. Works fine sitting on the desk. Any help would be appreciated.
Please answer this question for us francesco. Thanks.
Yes I have the same problem. Seems to have to do with metal. Once close to the metal, the buttons arent working anymore.
Hi Francesco, this is a great video - thank you for posting it!
We were able to diagnose the problem of our monitor with the help of your video: we taped the center pins and the monitor lit back up. Unfortunately, we are lacking the tools to follow through on the full repair immediately. You seem to be very knowledgeable and I am wondering what you opinion is regarding using the monitor with the taped pins in the short term or even long term? Do we risk serious damage to the unit by isolating the pins?
Thank you!
In theory this should damage the circuitry inside the monitor (because the output voltage is higher and not lower), but so far I've only seen one monitor fail after the center pin was taped. I'd say it's ok if the monitor does not see much use, on the other hand I would repair it. the replacement component is easy to source and the repair process is very simple.
Thank you for the explanation - that makes sense. We are opting to repair as we use the monitor quite a bit.
Thank you for this excellent video Francesco! I was wondering if you might have an idea on a problem I have. I have a very early Apple 30 inch display model M9179LLA. The display will go slightly green and out of focus at the native resolution 2560X1600. On rare occasions the display will return to normal but only lasts an hour or so before returning to the out of focus off color condition at 1280X1600. If I put the resolution to 1280X800 or lower the screen returns to normal from a focus and color standpoint, however putting the monitor back to 2560X1600 puts it back out of focus. Thinking it might be the driver or video adapter I tried another computer and the same conditions still exists. Any ideas on which board or component to check. Like once in a few months or so it will glitch back and be normal but only for an hour or sos before failing again
Hi, Francesco! Regulator voltage is 5 as you ve shown, but first measurements is jumping from 16 to 18 volt between -minus and uf700 yellow Thing. Do I have to replace both regulator and uf700?
Hey Francesco at first hoped your video was my answer. I replaced the side cover that has the power and brightness buttons. Both the old and new controls work - UNTIL I go to stick the side back on. As soon as any of the wiring on the inside of the strip gets near to sticking to the inside metal strip I basically lose all control of the buttons.
I've made sure display settings are all correctly enabled. I could always use the keyboard brightness controls and no power button, but it'd be nice just to have the display fully working.
Is there some special sequence putting the strip back onto the side? Is there some sort of sensor on the inside of the display that needs matching up?
I have the exact problem. Did you fix this problem? I also found it has to do with the metal.
Amazing!!!! Thanks for sharing this!
Hi Francesco! My friend, my 30" Apple Diaplay Monitor has a very dull white (sort of light yellow). I've tried adjusting brightness (from macOS) but it's not the problem. Which PCB controls the brightness/contrast should I need to replace? Thanks!
The display has a CCFL backlight that when it's end of life turns very yellow. usually it gets slightly better after some use if it has been sitting but the only way to fully solve it is replacing the panel or the tubes inside it.
Francesco Ferretti I have ACD 23" and top portion of the display become bit dark. Do you have any tip for me? Thanks in advance.
I have the same screen, 31 inch. But it wil flikkering some times. On, off, on off, no display, than again on for a week, an than again problems, Off. I have bring him to Aplle, but they do no longer repairs on this screens. Vintage.... But i think it is just an electronic problem, and "easy" to repair. Can you still find spareparts to repair my screen ?
thanks man it really helped. it worked on my mac but just asking, is it a safety hazard that mine read 8 volts when i measured it
where did you buy your multimeter?
@@izzzzzz6 harbor freight.
Hi Francesco, Thank you so much for the video!!! I have 2 30" Apple monitors. One is Micky moused with the scotch tape technique (This monitor is usually off) and the other one is running of a 150 watt brick. I'd like to repair them but since the circuit boards are different I'm worried I may not be able to figure it out! Any help would be greatly appropriated. I subscribed TBW :)
Gabriel Navarro I also have a couple 30” models I need to repair. So far I found out that a dead display might wake up again if there’s a USB device hooked up to it. You may also have a back backlight. You can start by swapping boards between them and see where what follows the problem
didn't fix mine. Any other ideas? Got no voltage on the lower part of the board. When i activate the power button on the display i see 17. something volts come and go on the input cable connection and 24V on the other side i also have some 5V pins and the 3.3V somewhere just under 2V also. The lower caps where the 2x smaller ic's are have no power on them. I was wondering why the 17V disappears. is it the psu shorting out or is it the power switch activating the psu. I didn't have the front led plugged in because of not wanting to throw it all back in the frame, the led on the board never lights 3.3V is good.
Should be 24V not 17. I also had one with a bad microcontroller so it’s not always the regulator. If you don’t put a signal it will always remain off
Ciao Francesco, ti chiedo un parere: mi è stato regalato un Apple cinema 20 senza psu, ho collegato ad un alimentatore non originale ed ha funzionato alla perfezione. Dopo aver scollegato i due fili li ho inavvertitamente collegati invertiti perché sono daltonico e faccio casino coi colori. Ho provato a collegarli di nuovo nel giusto verso ma non si accende più. C'è qualcosa che posso fare o lo getto nella spazzatura? Grazie mille
Francesco, also forgot to inquire whether the 3.3V regulator is used on the logic board for both the 20'" and 23" models? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
Yes, the component is the same. Actually I think that both boards are identical (they just have different firmware) while the 30 is different (since it has to handle two channels)
Hi Francesco, I'm checking 30" Cinema, have 3.3v ok, then 5v on LM2676S - 5.0 and LM2676S - ADJ has 18.1V. Cinema HD recognized by my 13" macbook but display is black. The left board is a backlight as I understand it, there is 24.66v comes to it along with 3.2v & 4.5v but nothing comes out. I checked all fuzes - all 8 of them (2A) are ok.
Power LED is half lit, if I touch power button it comes on brighter then few seconds later back to half lit. All looks clean as good as new. Any suggestions what else can be checked? Is there any schematics? Also, how to check controlling signals to check what actually enables the backlight etc. The story behind is power brick died, now it doesn't turn on.
Any advice greatly appreciated!
The tape method worked for me it sucks that every time my power goes out I have to reply got in
Hi Francesco, how are you, I got several displays and one of them had the same problem, but as I didn't have the power supply, so I just bought a generic one and connect the wires w/o any group and is working fine..is that a problem? do I need this fix? if so how do I get the regulator?
I also have an other display that doesn't turn on the led stars of, but the computers kind of recognize the screen at the display settings. How can I fix? Its 23 apple Cinema Display, and it is in great shape, I really what to fix it..what should I check... no lights come on...tried w/ a good power supply! thanks
I would still replace the regulator, It's cheap and redly available. As for the 23 you may have a damaged cable, if the regulator is fine. some parts are the same with the 20
good morning. thanks for your information. I have a 30 "apple cinema and every once in a while it turns itself off and on. I take the current and put it back and it continues to work. Could it be the same fault that you notice in the video? forgive my english, I speak only spanish and translate it with program. Thank you.
Don't think so, the 30 uses a different logic board inside. Try hooking up a USB device to one of the ports, that usually solves the problem
Francesco Ferretti Thank you for your message. Dismantle it by the regulator and it is perfect 3.3v. I have connected two devices to usb as you advise me and it is perfect. Thank you.
Friend thanks for your video by suggestion I recommend for soldering and desoldering SMD components easily use liquid flux is easy to clean and solder
Hi, great video! just wondering where I can buy the 3.3V regulator needed for the repair?
I got it from RS, order number 686-9123. it's a LD1117ADT33TR.
In this case any 3.3V regulators in a DPAK package that handle 1.2A or more should work.
Awesome! Thanks!
Mines just blank. The led doesn't come on at all. However following my 3.3 regulator is outputting 5 volts. I presume it's broken. I've ordered new ones but can anyone confirm I'm doing the right thing?
Ciao Francesco, grazie per il video. Sto cercando di riparare il monitor di un amico e ho ti seguito passo per passo. Ma ci credi che quello su cui sto lavorando legge 11.9V invece di 3.3? Pazzesco. Spero di trovare un regolatore in zona domani. Hai qualche altro consiglio, per caso? Saldo senza problemi, ma non sono esperto di elettronica. Grazie!
Se non ricordo male la tensione in ingresso sul regolatore è 5V e non 12. Se hai 12 sull’uscita al posto di 3v3 direi che è altamente probabile che si sia danneggiato qualcos’altro oltre al regolatore.
Ho lo stesso timore. Intanto proverei a cambiare il regolatore... Mi consigli di prendere anche una manciata di condensatori?
In genere i condensatori non danno problemi in questo caso
Grazie, per ora mi limito a cambiare il regolatore di voltaggio e ti aggiorno.
Ciao Francesco... volevo solo aggiornarti al volo: ho cambiato il regolatore e funziona! Grazie di nuovo dell'aiuto, buon finesettimana.
Thanks I will try to do it.
Ciao Francesco,
anche io sto cercando di riparare il mio monitor seguendo il tuo tutorial, ma purtroppo qualcosa non ha funzionato... posso chiederti un parere a riguardo? Innanzitutto non sono riuscito a trovare un regolatore esattamente identico al tuo. L'unico che ho trovato (visivamente identico) ha un codice che inizia con LD1117 ma finisce in modo diverso... sempre da 3.3V comunque. Ho saldato il nuovo regolatore e i voltaggi che leggo sono i seguenti: Pin di destra 5V, pad superiore 3.3V, pin di sinistra 0V. Immagino che quest'ultimo valore sia dove risiede il problema. Hai qualche consiglio a riguardo? Sai consigliarmi dove trovare il regolatore identico a quello che hai usato tu?
Grazie mille dell'aiuto!!
Pietro
Ciao, in realtà le tue misure mi sembrano normali: 5V è la tensione di ingresso, 3.3 l'uscita e 0 la massa comune. Che modello è? un 30?
In reità è un 23. Ho provato a sostituire il regolatore di tensione in quanto il led frontale lampeggiava (short-long-short). Adesso se lo collego al mac viene riconosciuto, ma rimane nero (non si accede più nemmeno il led frontale... e ovviamente nemmeno quello sulla scheda madre). Cosa può essere successo?? Consigli?? @@FrancescoF
@@paiaria Non saprei... tutti i cavi sono collegati correttamente? il fusibile all'ingresso dell'alimentazione?
Francesco Ferretti gli unici cavi che ho staccato sono le due clip che hai mostrato nel video: il led frontale e quello principale dello schermo. Dove si trova il fusibile di cui parli?? Che possa essere un problema di “saldatura” (è la prima volta che ne faccio una del genere)
@@paiaria il fusibile è subito dopo il connettore dell'alimentazione. Verificare le saldature non è una brutta idea, magari hai rotto qualche traccia
You are measuring the input voltage of the regulator, not the output voltage! The pins from left to right are: 1= GND, 2 + FAN = OUT, 3 = IN.
Hi all and thanks Francesco for this great video. I have a 20" Apple Cinema Display. The white led error signal is not one of the well known ShortLongShort or LongShortLong. I only have the white front led flashing once for 2' as the finger presses the button then nothing else, no more white led signal and no image on screen. I opened it up and checked the Voltage as shown : around 27V in and 3.3 to 3.5 after regulator, so I guess this is fine. Seen no burnt component either. Anyone has an idea what it could be ? Thanks in advance. PhiL.
Hi Phil, I’ve got a similar issue - please let me know if you found any solution?
@@kunal201283 hi guys. let me know also pls.
let me know also pls.
in the video what you do is not well appreciated, so I would ask you to put detailed photos of what you do to the board,
thanks and greetings
good!
Même en Français on ne peut dire qu'un seul mot : MERCI,
he only fixes the apple screen 30 prints not on the source