If you have long stretches of straight roads without traffic on your commute, a set of areo bars is great in the summer. They greatly speed up my commute.
1. Phone holder for podcasts & navigation 2. 2wheelgear's garment panier bag for those of us who wear blazers / slacks at work 3. Bone conduction headphones 4. Merino wool cap that fits under helmet
Solid tires. You talked about puncture resistant tires, but actually solid tires are excellent for commuting. No pump, no patch kit, no spare, no tire levers, no worries.
1.Pack a ziplock baggie in your emergency kit to put electronics in if you get caught in the rain. 2. Leave a pair of shoes at work so you never have to haul an extra set if you ride clipless. 3. The shortest way isnt always the best way. Plan your daily route to avoid busy streets. You might have to add a few miles, but its better than being killed by some driver who hasnt had their coffee yet.
#3 is super important. My first few days, I followed my Google Maps directions down the core roads in my city and it was nerve-wracking and filled with debris & potholes. I've worked out my own route that takes me along residential streets and bike paths pretty much the entire 25km route, only about 1-2km are along busy roads.
I’m extremely new to Road cycling. Take me back 4 weeks ago...I knew nothing. Now, thanks to GCN I am obsessed and I will never look back. I treat GCN like Netflix now.. Thank you so much!!!
If your commute is longer than a 20 minute easy ride, GET PANNIERS. I cannot stress this enough. Your back will not get sweaty in the summer, and you will not have the weight tiring your back out. When I switched to panniers after years of using a messenger, it literally changed my life.
Anything with rack bosses and a decent wheelbase. My Fuji Roubaix has bolt holes just above the rear dropouts, but I had to find very small panniers to fit the short wheelbase without rubbing my heels on the bags. An aftermarket seat clamp provides the upper mounting points.
Really liking these recent, interspersed, more accessible videos for non-club standard cyclists. GCN still feels like a group of Pro's but reaching out to those of us mere mortals that maybe just commute, Sunday ride or do a bit of touring. Keep up the great work team 👍
Four suggestions: 1. I drive to the office once or twice a week, and use those trips to replace "office clothes" and snacks, so I can commute in with just lunch and a laptop. 2. Most of the lights in the video are tragically under-powered. I have a pair of multi-LED units with external battery packs that put out 1000+ lumens on the bright setting, which is about what a car headlight does. Not friendly on the urban cycle-path, but CRUCIAL on my dark country roads in the winter. The battery packs are interchangeable and I keep one charged in my pannier just in case. You cannot have too much light. 3. I covered the seat-stays with reflective tape for added nighttime visibility. 4. Anything that you do not BOLT to solid mounting points on your frame will etch away the paint.
At point nr2 I have to admit that I have cursed those ebikes many many times on cycling paths in the dark blinding every cyclist going the opposite way.
@@cherriagana yup it sucks that ebike headlights are not adjusted so most of the light shines down and the amount shining in the front is enough to make a presence but not an annoyance
(2) it could be an issue of being a mix of weight weenie and not enough rural riding where having 500 lm mid beam and 1000 lm high beam makes a considerable difference, as well as not encouraging the use of bright off-road lighting that could be illegal in the EU. I'm staying with my 18650-based headlight, considering how easy it is to swap batteries midway through a nocturnal century. (3) side of forks is also useful, and this includes the fork lowers for suspension forks. For 4, touch-up paint is nice, especially to keep corrosion at bay, but so is electrical tape and old inner tubes as a paint protection buffer.
I have a 400 lumen headlight which I usually keep in the low setting (so maybe 200 lumens?) and pointed fairly low too. That's all I need to see where I'm going and to be seen by others in the dark Finnish autumn and winter mornings. I can't understand why someone thinks they would need car headlight type power for cycling (much lower speed than cars) on a road where there are no hard to see obstacles on the ground. Offroad in the forest might be different as you really need to see what's ahead. You think you must see everything for hundreds of meters ahead of you to feel safe but really you don't, a few dozen meters will be enough and it doesn't need to be lit like an operating room either. The most annoying are the ones with a huge searchlight strapped to their heads (both cyclists and pedestrians) as they'll invariably point it right at the face of the oncoming cyclists, as their eyes are instinctively drawn there and very few people can override their instincts , blinding them completely.
@@Murgoh Deer. That's my main reason. I run the light in the low setting in town, but when I get out in the country, the darkness is complete and unrelenting. And every passing car puts their brights on to "help" me, which just leaves me even more blinded after they pass. Plus I can get oncoming cars to lower their headlights with a quick flick of the high-beam. But the deer are terrifyingly stupid out here, and I have a pair of ~40mph descents right before I get to my house.
Gotta go full Fred. Panniers & a rack. Full coverage fenders/mudguards. Bright primary light & a smaller secondary light in front & at least one red blinky in back. Tires with reflective sidewalls are a plus. I leave clothing at work & do a once a week swap of clean clothing for laundry. If the weather is unpredictable where you live, have the clothing for it. Here in New England we can have three seasons in one day. In the end though, bike commuting is fun. It's consistently one of the best parts of my day, certainly better than sitting in a car dealing with stop & go traffic.
Commute 22Km to work here in Helsinki. Few tips: mudguards, puncture proof tyres for summer and studded tyres for winter, dynamo is a must, hi-vis as much as possible, panniers over rucksack and finally some decent clothing. Oh and a lock.!
I agree with some of the sentiments. Actually show setting up a commuter -specific bike, discuss why better lights are needed for rush hour traffic, and more utilitarian clothing/gear (versus) all the road race kit. And secure those backpack straps... nothing is more annoying than flapping straps.
I agree...if you are wearing a back pack 3 pocketed cycling jersey are pointless, short and long sleeve hi viz technical T shirts I find are good, with a gilet or hi viz jacket....doesnt need to be Rapha, daily commuting isnt a fashion show. Comfort, safety, quick drying is what you want.
I would add a loud Bell on the bike when in the city for the mindless pedestrians on their phones. I would also recommend that if you do use a light that the angle be down and away from eye level to prevent blinding oncoming traffic, pedestrian, cars or other cyclists.
My 2 € cents: 1. Get the damn single speed if you can, for the lightness, ease of the maintenance and reliability. 2. Even sturdier aluminium rims for attacking the kerbs and potholes. 3. U-lock holder for the frame. 4. Waterproof: overtrousers, hardshell and gloves. Either on you or stored in the backpack. 5. Don't ride your sporty bike. 6. Good bell. People in the morning daze need extra help to look around. 7. Narrow bar, potentially even flat bars with MTB grips that keep the friction in the wet.
For places that have more heat than the threat of rain, find somewhere with a shower, you will be sweaty no matter how leisurely of a pace you have. For number 1, Ride what you have.
(1) A decent hill climb is annoying with a single gear ratio. (2) Touring rims are great for this. (4) I like my Adidas track suit for this. (6) A rechargeable air horn beats a bell especially when there's drivers and people using headphones. (7) Narrow bar sucks if you're riding a gravel shoulder or doing any off-roading.
I have toured and commuted without waterproof panniers. I use food freezer bags to store my clothes and items that need to remain dry in my bags. It is also a great way to organize your gear. I put a full set of clothing in one bag for the next day.
Pre-pandemic I would daily commute pretty much year round from NJ into NYC - 40 miles round trip. Bike locked up in public bike stands on street outside office. I would use my beater bike - originally a 97 LeMond Tourmalet - but rebuilt and repainted several times - switched to friction shifters in the down tube for simplicity. Easily 8k plus miles a year and would never think twice about getting to work any other way.
Been bike commuting for 7 years now! I tried a pannier that could transform into a backpack and it was not great at either. Sticking with panniers on a rack.
There are a few options for convertible backpack panniers. I love my Banjo Brothers backpack pannier. It was one of the cheaper options too. I would still get a pack cover to keep it clean in the rain and snow.
Get some cheap, large and water-proof double panniers, and dump your backback in it. You can also make food shopping easier by just sliding two bags into both. Cycling should be convient for everyday stuff.
I'm planning a route to my school from my home. It's the first time I will be commuting by cycling. Tbf I would've started earlier but I live in Los Angeles and if you've ever been here you would know the drivers are... assholes. What finally swayed my judgement was the knowledge that it would take 2 hours to travel a mere 6 miles home on the bus. These comments and this video is extremely helpful. I've found a route that takes me along the beach (parallel to PCH/Santa Monica). I'm looking forward to being able to commute by cycling. Thank you, everyone, for all your help and insight on commuting by cycling I'm sure this knowledge will not go to waste when my school finally does go back to in-person (hopefully in the coming months).
Thank you, GCN. As a daily commuter for years now I can confirm all of your tips. The only thing I miss in your list are disc brakes. When commuting you ride far more often in wet conditions than in training rides, where you may adjust your riding time more to the weather forecast. And disc brakes were one of the most valuable upgrades I did. And you're right: safety and comfort are more important for commuting. This is, why I finally got an gravel bike. They nearly have all your upgrades united in one bike.
I used to do 1-2 comutes to work per week, but since i got myself a gravel bike I ride every day, doing 200miles per week. all the points checked. I like new videos...
A good place to start is an upright city bike, not a hybrid or racer. You will be much safer in an upright riding position that will allow you to easily be aware of your surroundings. And if you do crash, you won't be going head-first into something. Check out what the Dutch do. They are super experienced city riders, and they don't bother wearing helmets.
I use my Caad12 for fitness,, commuting, charity rides etc. I use lights all the time along with my Blaze colored Timbuk2 backpack. Luckily I teach at a High School with good shower facilities and my office where I keep my clothes for the commuting days.
I used to own a trekking bike which served me well for getting to the shops, to uni and to later start commuting to work (18km both ways). - then I moved and got my first steel road bike (It was the cheapest 2nd hand bike available). After moving to another city in Austria I got a alu-road bike. Simple bike. I commute 2-4 times/week to work, 50km. I still use a backpack and have a simple set up. The points you make in the video are great for people who cycle regularly and own a road bike. I find, one of the most important things is keeping things safe and dry + make the trip as enjoyable as possible - because it is gonna be super boring and hard some days. Therfore beeing able to do everything with as little work as possible is key for me. Leaving clothes at work, having accessible pockets for bananas, MP3-Player, ... is important for my commuting style. And dry days are the best days for commuting. hands down ^^
When I commuted in the times before I think I had it down Over-sized bike packing saddle bag for Change of clothes and lunch Frame bag for bike tools and on bike essentials. Vest/Jacket arm or leg warmers. Bike is a gravel bike 650b 1.9 tubeless. I tried puncture proof thinner tires and they never lasted. Bigger may be a little slower but the piece of mind is worth it.
Puncture resistance of Pirelli Cinturato is amazing. I have been using it tubeless on the rear wheel for over one year and no flats so far (approx 4000 km ridden). On front wheel I have the Conti 4 Season clincher. Another excellent option. Only two flats on the same period and descent grip on the rain
I do that in the summer as I only need to transport my lunch and maybe a rain jacket so a small backpack will do. I sometimes even commute on my TT bike if I'm quite sure it's not going to rain. In the winter I use a 90:s mountain bike converted into a "gravel bike" (drop bars, road chainset) with a rack, a pannier, mudguards, studded tyres, lights, lots of reflectors etc.
I commute through NYC every day on a carbon endurance racing bike with removable plastic fenders when need be and use a bikepacking saddle bag for my stuff. It makes my commute so much more fun being able to feel faster compared to a typical commuter bike with racks/panniers etc. I don't have to leave the bike outside, which is a big factor though, as if I couldn't do that it would have been stolen at some point.
Yeah if you need to pick up groceries and go back home with them or god forbid if you’re caught in a thunderstorm you would need a bag to put a rain suit in and also a separate sandwich bag to keep your electronics dry. That bike computer/gps/heart monitor they advertise all the time? I doubt they will withstand a downpour. Never use a backpack if you can help it, panniers are better and your back won’t sweat to death (and it won’t hurt after 5+ miles) I also didn’t see a change of shoes or goggles for when the rain gets really hard, either. Also... where do you put the bike locks for when you’re at work? anyone? No? Ok 😂
@@Sarah_Kinz "Never use a backpack if you can help it, panniers are better and your back won’t sweat to death" now that depends on what backpack one uses - I use a Deuter AirComfort that has a web mesh gap between the bag and my back and there are other brands with the same. After years of rattling speed-resisting panniers I ditched the rack and panniers and cycles are more comfortable and quicker now.
What about solid tires?? After two flats a week apart on Continental (kevlar lined) Gatorskins I switched to Tannus solid tires - not the easiest install, but are supposed to be good for 8,000 km - I put them on my girlfriend's bike a couple of months ago. We both commute to work and so far the only notable difference is having to ignore the impulse to check tires for pressure. If weight is a concern, mine weighed in at 50 grams heavier than the old clincher tire, tube and rim tape - however, the bike is now lighter without the spare tube (at 90 g), plus CO2, pump, levers, and saddle bag.
A pair of panniers can also be used to carry a lot of groceries, if you're interested in grocery shopping by bike. I can pretty much get a week's worth of groceries, depending on the grocery list (a case of coke won't really fly). I'll strongly second your suggestion about lights - far too many commuters here do not use lights; maybe they're suicidal?
I think that when we talk about "commuting", it is good to differentiate between short- /mid- and large distance commuting. Totally different story. I "commute" every day 4 km to my workplace with a 30 year old single speed, back-pedal brake bike with "grandma" seat, totally upright position. My comfortable speed is 20 km/h, which is totally fine for this distance. 30 km/h would mean saving 4 minutes. I can also leave that bike locked on the street with a peace of mind. I have a huge raincoat (poncho) from decathlon that covers me and my backpack, etc. Of course, if I were to ride 30 km to work, that would be a different story. But even on something like 15 km, I'm not sure you gain that much with a roadbike because of traffic lights and whatnot. I was also a bit surprised that in a commute focused video, varia was not even mentioned in the lights category.
I absolutely agree. My commute is much the same, I ride a 3 speed heavy retro style city bike. Plus it came with mudguards included...and the chain covered so I don't accidentally get my nice work pants dirty. A racing bike would be uncomfortable, more likely to be stolen, and maybe shave off a few minutes of my trip. Panniers also are a godsend. I can go grocery shopping on the way home and I can fit nearly a week's worth in them.
@@aaronhauptmann869 Haha, well, I got used to them. It is funny when I try to do the same sometimes on my road bike :-P One huge advantage of that setup of mine is that there is only 1 cable on the whole bike (front brake), and that's it. My bike is a "terminator", it is really difficult to get any damage on it more serious than scratches for the paint. Och, and it also looks cool. At least according to myself :-P instagram.com/p/Be5EdAQlepF/
I ride a gravel bike I specifically bought with mounts for mudguards and a rear pannier rack. Number one thing that was missed is a bell, if you're cycling on a mixed use path it's essential, but also useful to give fellow cyclists or road users a friendly warning before you overtake them. There should also be advice about how to ride in the dark, always angle your lights down, don't set them to flashing unless it is light or they are really low lumen lights.
9:04 I have scoliosis, I've just ordered a bike and I'm wondering what are some things I should buy - this advice is helpful, a panier sounds better than a backpack for me!
I used to have a rack and panniers on a previous bike but the rattling, imbalances and significant decrease in aero concluded in selling them on in favour of an aero backpack with a sweat-mitigating web-mesh layer between the bag and my back. Never rack and panniers again - saddle, frame and handlebar bags rule.
1. Don't use a road bike 2. Schwalbe marathon plus But seriously, how did this get filmed without a single bike showing a rear rack or even the mudguards that specifically get mentioned
Because the UK fundamentally doesn’t get bike commuting. I mean if I was to ride a road bike to work, which I wouldn’t, then it would have a Rohloff or Pinion gearbox. Every day I’d look at my bike and be happy at the fact that I wouldn’t have to clean it and it would keep working perfectly.
M E That’s not the point. You could ride every day on a rusty old supermarket bike. But it’s pretty clear that low maintenance and durability should be at the top of the priorities for a commuter bike for most people. If you actively choose to ride a road bike that’s fine. But I see so many people with derailleurs on upright bikes when it makes no sense for them to do so, and that’s what bothers me.
Great advice Conor. Get the best equipment you can afford. The money will be well spent. I ride twice a week to work minimum. Good panniers aren't cheap and cheap panniers aren't good. Fenders/mudguards are a must if you plan on being comfortable. Lights I have two sets just in case I don't get the chance to charge them and I carry a power bank for the emergency charging of any light or my phone.
Gloves, gloves, gloves. Commuting in the winter in the 0-10 degC range with a lot of rain, the problem is not so much getting wet, as how cold you will get if wet. If I forget my winter gloves my hands can get so cold I can barely operate the gear shifters. The right gloves are so important . At the other end, goretex shoe covers that are easy to put on and off are a real bonus, as are goretex overtrousers. I often start out in shorts and a goretex jacket in the winter then if it rains stop to put on the goretex over trousers, shoe covers, and winter gloves. And all this is kept in my panniers! The two things I think you should look for in a pannier are a waterproof material with roll top closing, and catches that lock the pannier onto the rack. When you are going hard, an unlocked pannier can bounce off, and people often do not notice for some time. Clear glasses for eye protection in the dark and rain. My commuter has disc brakes. I can go much faster on my commute on a sunny day on any of my rim brake road bikes, but in the dark and rain the discs give me the confidence to still ride aggressively. And the most important thing you need is a healthy scepticism about the abilities and intentions of other road users.
Got me wanting to use my bike again to commute! Nothing better that a fresh morning ride into work and then having a hot coffee well your getting changed.
While few do it, there's nothing weird with wearing cycling shorts and jersey on commutes. They wick sweat and they dry quickly during the day in time for the evening commute. A quick paper towel wash down in the washroom followed by deo is all that's needed then. Work clothes can be carried in a back-venting backpack. This is what I do.
I'd also advocate buying another bike for commuting. My daily commute is (or was 🙁) relatively flat so I use an aluminium single speed bike with full mudguards. Easy to maintain, keeps me dry and makes my weekend steed feel a lot faster come Sunday morning
Thirty years of all weather cycle commuting: * Hub dynamo and fixed lights are my top tip. * Panniers - not a backpack if you don't want a horribly sweaty back. * Full mudguards - I am a considerate cyclist (and they work much better). * Windproof jacket, and not too much underneath.
Thank you this one is really informative, wrote down so many terms I've never heard of, an actually showing some of the gear was great help. Some vids at gcn don't show the products, or show it in passing. I don't like vague winter commute videos like "pedal harder to stay warm" I'm cold even in summer. So again thanks for extra details.
I use a 14 year old claud butler hybrid bike. Have a gravel section so schwabler puncture proof tyres and quick release panniers. 10 mile ride and 800ft of climbing each way. At 52 I am seriously considering an electric bike. Full 5 days this week and i'm aching...
Definitely tubeless, definitely dedicated mud guards, a front rack is always nice though I use a frame bag, and a dynamo hub with lights to make it easy. Forgetting to charge lights is always a hassle. Ultralight rain jackets are nice too, packs away small and pulls out nice and quick. Invested in a full Gore winter setup, well worth the money here in Colorado.
For year-round commuters: 1) Use bikes that don't make you poor when it comes to spare parts (wear parts), because the wear and tear of constant stop and go is great. 2) I have a summer and a winter bike to meet the different demands, and the wear and tear is distributed over 2 bikes. 3) Fenders may not be cool but they are very practical. 4) Spare clothes at the workplace are not bad. 5) A commuter bike doesn't have to look good but it has to run well. 6) For shopping on the way home, a luggage rack is a good idea.
Steel or aluminium bike as these won’t mind what conditions you ride in. Full length mudguards front and rear - when you see how much water they divert, you’ll wonder how anyone goes without. Puncture protection over rolling resistance - the rolling resistance is minimal compared to a long stop in the rain to fix a puncture. Panniers over backpack all day - more capacity, no sweaty back, no weight on you Overshoes (or waterproof shoes) - the amount of spray from a wet road (even when it’s not raining) that gets onto shoes is surprising.
Useful tips. Personally I have a second bike specific to the job, mudgaurds, panier, lights, permanently sorted and fitted, don't have to worry about bashing up my sparkly carbon road bike!
For me personally. Since ive got caliper brakes - I upgraded the pads to Kool Stop Dura 2's. Ive had shimano pads that turn into icecream when commuting in the rain so this is a must for me... My commute was all road so I ran GP 4 Seasons all year round. I did switch to MICHELIN PRO4 ENDURANCE tyres for two months but that came to an end when i was left stranded after two punctures - One on the ride to work and one on the ride home. But by far one of the best upgrades I ever had was HR dept allowing me to have two separate lockers so that meant that i didnt constantly need to carry a change of clothes and other things constantly back and forth. I easily made do with a small messenger bag or my Deuter Race EXP backpack as I never carried anything heavy
I started to use a rear flashing LED light even in sunny daylight because the shadows of buildings and tree canopies are very dark for drivers approaching from the rear. Drivers may be inattentive and their windscreen may be in poor condition. And I don't wear black cycling clothes on the open roads.
My city bike is an Achielle city bike with duomatic internal drivetrain, and a coaster brake. Pretty much maintenance free with almost nothing to break or adjust. If your legs are strong, you won't need more than two gears for relatively flat city riding.
While rechargeable lights win on some aspects of convenience, three 360+ mile (579+ kilometer) trips from Buffalo, NY, USA to Albany, NY, USA show that rechargeables are extremely difficult to maintain on long distance road rides, especially when they're competing for precious charging block resources. It's like a law of nature that they'll run out shortly after needing them, and then you're left on the side of the road linked to a battery charge pack until they're sufficiently filled. Yes, planning better can help; but then there's reality and the competing demands upon one's time. Better, I've found, is to accept that remembering to recharge is going to be a problem and just bring along one or two extra batteries for use on battery operated bike lights. Even if you run out for some reason, you're almost guaranteed to be able to find batteries at roadside convenience stores (at a premium price, of course) and be back on the road quickly. I say all this as someone who does light local and long distance riding, and really dislikes having to have separate gear for each purpose. Buying one set of battery operated lights can be used conveniently for both purposes. On the other hand, I no longer trust rechargeable lights to survive on long distance trips as they've failed, in whole or in part, each time I've attempted long crossings (with name brand gear).
On a long trip I'd definitely carry at least two fully charged 18650s for my B01 (don't have any 21700 batteries yet), for the reason you mentioned. Torches and batteries nowadays are great but we still have a long ways to go.
@@jeremysweeten2792 I still get a chuckle whenever someone references that, after all this time. For those who have no idea what we're talking about: ruclips.net/video/ghRL9thv7kU/видео.html
I carry my work clothes in on Monday and dirty clothes home on Friday using an LL. Bean backpack I got back when I was in middle school. I'm now almost 40 so that thing has had a good 30 year run. Thinking about getting a new backpack, vendors now make cycling specific and even commuter specific ones. Might be nice to see some sort of review of this space and things one might want to consider when selecting a new bag. I don't actually need another one but maybe I'm missing out of some cool features or something.
One thing you missed. A high decibel horn. Not as a replacement for a bell, but as protection from the no-look drivers on junctions. I'm sure anyone else who commutes by bike know this person, particularly during the darker months, they don't see bright headlights so assume it's safe to pull out without looking. I use the horn at most 1/50 rides. But that one time can save you. I rock a bell to politely let pedestrians know I'm approaching and a 140db horn the make sure drivers wake up in the dark mornings.
Or just take it easy, and relax, and get a frame lock and plug-in chain that wraps around the seat post. The latter which 99% of the cycles on NL have.
I've tried it I wouldn't really recommend it. If you can put a rack on that would be better if it does add more weight. And they're easier to pack. Believe it or not you won't have anyone going for your bike packing bag either when you leave it locked outside. LOL
I got overly excited seeing that 2-second cut of my home city of Gothenburg, Sweden, at the beginning of the video. You should warn us Swedish viewers next time you drop by!
A hiking head torch is a great bit of kit - they usually have a red flashing setting so can be used as a backup front or rear light, and it makes fixing punctures in the dark soo much nicer. Also, I love my Carradice bag if I’m not carrying enough for panniers - lighter, much more convenient than bikepacking setups and obviously cool as.
My commute is 35km roundtrip, only a quarter is on roads, the rest is on a gravel bike path in the Laurentian mountains. Should talk about different road types and conditions. I go from nice to crappy roads, to gravel path. And Hills, ohhhh those hills !!! ;)
I look at the weather forecast on a Sunday for the coming week. If rain is forecast then that’s the day that I choose to load up the car with enough shirts and trousers for the next two weeks, leaving me free for a good couple of weeks nice riding to and from work. Unfortunately we don’t have a shower, so I do the old “armpits and dangly bits” wash in the bathroom with a face cloth before getting changed
I bought a mountain bike for general tearing around with my son on the back but then started to enjoy cycling so much I wanted to do more commuting and road cycling. Now I want a road bike but can't afford one but until I can, i'm slowly putting little things on my bike to make the commute a bit easier such as road tyres etc until I can get my first road bike. FYI, I entered this weeks GCN comp to a win a road bike so bear that in mind guys ;-)
I work part time 3 days. I bike commute all three days 14 miles round trip very hilly . I have a cheap bike but it does the job. Light backpack,I bring enough clothes for all 3 days on my first day of work and on my last day of work I bring everything back home. Works good for me. I also pack a small cooler which I strap to my back rack for lunch. I use quad lock mount for phone. I have a loud old fashion squeeze Horne on my handlebars for anything gets in my way. Lol. I takes me about the same time as when I used to drive a car
You talk about “panniers” and “racks” without even showing what they are - I came for info and feel like there’s something I should know but I don’t. I commute daily 20 km each way and tie my backpack with laptop to the carrier above my back tire with an elastic strap - is that a good idea?
Panniers are sturdy bags that have hooks that attach to a pannier rack. The rack above your back tire is probably appropriate. Just ensure that the whole rack is rigid and does not move around easily. (Some older racks had hinged struts and were not very secure.) Good panniers like Ortleib and Deuter have locking systems that automatically engage when you release the carry handle and are water proof. These are best. Just a note of caution on tying a back pack to the rear rack. The straps can work their way near the spokes and get caught which would cause an accident. Happy riding!
Adam Watson thanks, but what advantage do panniers have over a rack? Surely a rack is lighter. Is it just that panniers handle bag straps easier. I tie the bag straps together so they can’t fall in the spokes
@@idjles HI Idjles. It sounds like you already have it pretty sorted. Since you already have a rack so you could either tie your backpack to the rack or put panniers on it. I find paniers more convenient - no need to tie, more waterproof and durable, more room ie panniers come in different sizes with 40 litres being about the largest (per pair) You could manage this easily on a bike but a 40 Litre back pack is going to be unmanagable on the top of a rack. Also with panniers your centre of gravity is lower so your bike handles better. It depends on how much you need to carry and how heavy it is. It sounds like you don't have to carry very much so what ever works for you is fine. I teach music so I carry an Alto sax, clarinet, flute, computer, change of clothes, books and lunch so I have two panniers full, a rack top bag from topeak and a back pack and I cart this to 3 different schools and travel about 150km per week for my commute so panniers are a must. Enjoy
So-called full length fenders do not come down behind the wheel low enough to shield the lower legs and feet from front wheel spray. One solution is to use a rear fender up front, cutting some length off the front and rotating the fender back so that the back end of the fender or its mudflap if it has one, is about 10cm from the ground.
I've been bike commuting for the past 3 years straight to work. My suggestion is this: Forget about any upgrades and changes on your road bike and go buy you a 500-1000 pound touring bike. Touring bikes are designed for commuting and carrying stuff. They got 1.75 tires with better puncture protection and are overall much better for that job. Vy doing this, even if someone steals your bike it's not that much of a big deal, imagine your 5K - 10K road bike being stolen. It's worth the investment. Don't commute on your road bike; buy a touring bike.
@Ameer Still not the best option if you have an expensive bike and if you use the same bike for riding and training. Imagine having to remove the rack, change wheels, and adjust your brakes every time you want to ride (no commute). If you want so much to commute on a road bike get a cheap gravel bike instead. They have wider tires and are better suited for commutes. Again, don't sacrifice your expensive road bike to commute. It's not worth it. You can also benefit from riding on flats instead of clits. This way you also don't need to bring an extra pair of shoes with you.
Screw upgrades! I want to know exactly what bikes you have? You have good taste! I’m short in comparison (only 6’3”) and love all your bikes and colours
Keep your bike clean weekly & check the tyres for bits of any debris stuck in there. Check the weather day before and pack accordingly. Wear bright clothes hi vis where possible. Don't react when drivers mouth off or start giving you shit just let them go and be on their way. Be safe and enjoy the privilage of being able to bike it to work everyday
Great suggestions. Have you tested any phone mounts? I don't have a cyclometer so I just use my phone, which provides the added bonus of active GPS. Thoughts?
I love the FINN. It's basically a piece of silicone that wraps around the handlebar and the top and bottom of your phone. Some might not like that it takes slightly longer than a turn and click thingy that is permanently mounted on your bike and your phone. I like that the FINN is very secure and does not rattle. It fits any phone, no installation needed. I only use mine when I need directions, which is not very often, but I always have it with me just in case. Remember: Anything that locks in with a turn can open when you inadvertently touch your bike. I've seen a friend drop and destroy his brand new phone like that while we were chatting at a street corner...
Every time you do maintenance find your kms for that bike on Strava, then email that figure to yourself with a description of what you did (eg new chain, cassette, etc). Title that email ‘Maintenance odometer’. You’ll have a record of how many kms you have on that chain and how many kms you got out of that tyre.
Got any upgrades for commuting? Share them with us in the comments below
Is felt a good brand cause i have a road bike felt
take the tube
If you have long stretches of straight roads without traffic on your commute, a set of areo bars is great in the summer. They greatly speed up my commute.
1. Phone holder for podcasts & navigation
2. 2wheelgear's garment panier bag for those of us who wear blazers / slacks at work
3. Bone conduction headphones
4. Merino wool cap that fits under helmet
Solid tires. You talked about puncture resistant tires, but actually solid tires are excellent for commuting. No pump, no patch kit, no spare, no tire levers, no worries.
1.Pack a ziplock baggie in your emergency kit to put electronics in if you get caught in the rain.
2. Leave a pair of shoes at work so you never have to haul an extra set if you ride clipless.
3. The shortest way isnt always the best way. Plan your daily route to avoid busy streets. You might have to add a few miles, but its better than being killed by some driver who hasnt had their coffee yet.
#3 is super important. My first few days, I followed my Google Maps directions down the core roads in my city and it was nerve-wracking and filled with debris & potholes. I've worked out my own route that takes me along residential streets and bike paths pretty much the entire 25km route, only about 1-2km are along busy roads.
Plus if it's a bit longer, you get a better work out :)
I omit (2). Wearing SPD shoes, I can walk around in them in the office. 😀
I’m extremely new to Road cycling. Take me back 4 weeks ago...I knew nothing. Now, thanks to GCN I am obsessed and I will never look back. I treat GCN like Netflix now.. Thank you so much!!!
Same man, I binge watched GCN when I fell in love with cycling
Don’t worry they make good ad money from obsessed viewers like you lol
@@chiquicat1 which is not a problem to me at all, cause the provide good information in return
Same here
So its not just me then
If your commute is longer than a 20 minute easy ride, GET PANNIERS.
I cannot stress this enough. Your back will not get sweaty in the summer, and you will not have the weight tiring your back out.
When I switched to panniers after years of using a messenger, it literally changed my life.
Yes! An hour cycle with a heavy backpack was not good on my hands either. You don't need that weight on your body, stick it on the bike!
Get stronger. 🗿
Show some realistic commuters' bikes. I can't think of many commuting on an Aeroad Dura-ace.
Just use any cross or gravelbike and fit decently sized tyres.
@@audax333 I know what bike to use, but given the type of advice, showing a real commuter bike would have been appropriate.
Anything with rack bosses and a decent wheelbase. My Fuji Roubaix has bolt holes just above the rear dropouts, but I had to find very small panniers to fit the short wheelbase without rubbing my heels on the bags. An aftermarket seat clamp provides the upper mounting points.
Matteo you don't commute on a $5000 road bike in full kit? ;)
They are just using some footage from earlier communing video for convenience (and they look nice!)
Really liking these recent, interspersed, more accessible videos for non-club standard cyclists.
GCN still feels like a group of Pro's but reaching out to those of us mere mortals that maybe just commute, Sunday ride or do a bit of touring.
Keep up the great work team 👍
Getting my first road bike tomorrow cant wait 😁
J B enjoy it & safe miles!
Congratulations! 👍🏾
Cheers everyone. I bought a second hand trek chuffed with it.
Prepare for great disappointment)) But don't worry, after couple of rides you'll feel better
Have fun man and be safe
Four suggestions:
1. I drive to the office once or twice a week, and use those trips to replace "office clothes" and snacks, so I can commute in with just lunch and a laptop.
2. Most of the lights in the video are tragically under-powered. I have a pair of multi-LED units with external battery packs that put out 1000+ lumens on the bright setting, which is about what a car headlight does. Not friendly on the urban cycle-path, but CRUCIAL on my dark country roads in the winter. The battery packs are interchangeable and I keep one charged in my pannier just in case. You cannot have too much light.
3. I covered the seat-stays with reflective tape for added nighttime visibility.
4. Anything that you do not BOLT to solid mounting points on your frame will etch away the paint.
At point nr2 I have to admit that I have cursed those ebikes many many times on cycling paths in the dark blinding every cyclist going the opposite way.
@@cherriagana yup it sucks that ebike headlights are not adjusted so most of the light shines down and the amount shining in the front is enough to make a presence but not an annoyance
(2) it could be an issue of being a mix of weight weenie and not enough rural riding where having 500 lm mid beam and 1000 lm high beam makes a considerable difference, as well as not encouraging the use of bright off-road lighting that could be illegal in the EU. I'm staying with my 18650-based headlight, considering how easy it is to swap batteries midway through a nocturnal century. (3) side of forks is also useful, and this includes the fork lowers for suspension forks. For 4, touch-up paint is nice, especially to keep corrosion at bay, but so is electrical tape and old inner tubes as a paint protection buffer.
I have a 400 lumen headlight which I usually keep in the low setting (so maybe 200 lumens?) and pointed fairly low too. That's all I need to see where I'm going and to be seen by others in the dark Finnish autumn and winter mornings.
I can't understand why someone thinks they would need car headlight type power for cycling (much lower speed than cars) on a road where there are no hard to see obstacles on the ground. Offroad in the forest might be different as you really need to see what's ahead. You think you must see everything for hundreds of meters ahead of you to feel safe but really you don't, a few dozen meters will be enough and it doesn't need to be lit like an operating room either.
The most annoying are the ones with a huge searchlight strapped to their heads (both cyclists and pedestrians) as they'll invariably point it right at the face of the oncoming cyclists, as their eyes are instinctively drawn there and very few people can override their instincts , blinding them completely.
@@Murgoh Deer. That's my main reason. I run the light in the low setting in town, but when I get out in the country, the darkness is complete and unrelenting. And every passing car puts their brights on to "help" me, which just leaves me even more blinded after they pass. Plus I can get oncoming cars to lower their headlights with a quick flick of the high-beam. But the deer are terrifyingly stupid out here, and I have a pair of ~40mph descents right before I get to my house.
Gotta go full Fred. Panniers & a rack. Full coverage fenders/mudguards. Bright primary light & a smaller secondary light in front & at least one red blinky in back. Tires with reflective sidewalls are a plus. I leave clothing at work & do a once a week swap of clean clothing for laundry. If the weather is unpredictable where you live, have the clothing for it. Here in New England we can have three seasons in one day. In the end though, bike commuting is fun. It's consistently one of the best parts of my day, certainly better than sitting in a car dealing with stop & go traffic.
Commute 22Km to work here in Helsinki. Few tips: mudguards, puncture proof tyres for summer and studded tyres for winter, dynamo is a must, hi-vis as much as possible, panniers over rucksack and finally some decent clothing. Oh and a lock.!
I agree with some of the sentiments. Actually show setting up a commuter -specific bike, discuss why better lights are needed for rush hour traffic, and more utilitarian clothing/gear (versus) all the road race kit. And secure those backpack straps... nothing is more annoying than flapping straps.
Good idea Robert! and you're right, flappy straps are awful
I agree...if you are wearing a back pack 3 pocketed cycling jersey are pointless, short and long sleeve hi viz technical T shirts I find are good, with a gilet or hi viz jacket....doesnt need to be Rapha, daily commuting isnt a fashion show. Comfort, safety, quick drying is what you want.
I would add a loud Bell on the bike when in the city for the mindless pedestrians on their phones.
I would also recommend that if you do use a light that the angle be down and away from eye level to prevent blinding oncoming traffic, pedestrian, cars or other cyclists.
Loud squeaky brakes are better!
My 2 € cents:
1. Get the damn single speed if you can, for the lightness, ease of the maintenance and reliability.
2. Even sturdier aluminium rims for attacking the kerbs and potholes.
3. U-lock holder for the frame.
4. Waterproof: overtrousers, hardshell and gloves. Either on you or stored in the backpack.
5. Don't ride your sporty bike.
6. Good bell. People in the morning daze need extra help to look around.
7. Narrow bar, potentially even flat bars with MTB grips that keep the friction in the wet.
A+ advice
For places that have more heat than the threat of rain, find somewhere with a shower, you will be sweaty no matter how leisurely of a pace you have.
For number 1, Ride what you have.
(1) A decent hill climb is annoying with a single gear ratio. (2) Touring rims are great for this. (4) I like my Adidas track suit for this. (6) A rechargeable air horn beats a bell especially when there's drivers and people using headphones. (7) Narrow bar sucks if you're riding a gravel shoulder or doing any off-roading.
Well said
singlespeeds are useless outside flatlandia. Unless you are a masochist
I have toured and commuted without waterproof panniers. I use food freezer bags to store my clothes and items that need to remain dry in my bags. It is also a great way to organize your gear. I put a full set of clothing in one bag for the next day.
Pre-pandemic I would daily commute pretty much year round from NJ into NYC - 40 miles round trip. Bike locked up in public bike stands on street outside office. I would use my beater bike - originally a 97 LeMond Tourmalet - but rebuilt and repainted several times - switched to friction shifters in the down tube for simplicity. Easily 8k plus miles a year and would never think twice about getting to work any other way.
Friction shifters are massively underrated for bikes that are ridden often in poor weather.
Been bike commuting for 7 years now! I tried a pannier that could transform into a backpack and it was not great at either. Sticking with panniers on a rack.
There are a few options for convertible backpack panniers. I love my Banjo Brothers backpack pannier. It was one of the cheaper options too. I would still get a pack cover to keep it clean in the rain and snow.
Get some cheap, large and water-proof double panniers, and dump your backback in it. You can also make food shopping easier by just sliding two bags into both. Cycling should be convient for everyday stuff.
Suggest GCN look into commuter bikes and do a video about what makes them commuter bikes.
Aero bikes with disc brakes, clearly. On any other bike typical commuter lycra suit looks inappropriate.
There's litterly a country 200 miles to the east...
I'm planning a route to my school from my home. It's the first time I will be commuting by cycling. Tbf I would've started earlier but I live in Los Angeles and if you've ever been here you would know the drivers are... assholes. What finally swayed my judgement was the knowledge that it would take 2 hours to travel a mere 6 miles home on the bus. These comments and this video is extremely helpful. I've found a route that takes me along the beach (parallel to PCH/Santa Monica). I'm looking forward to being able to commute by cycling. Thank you, everyone, for all your help and insight on commuting by cycling I'm sure this knowledge will not go to waste when my school finally does go back to in-person (hopefully in the coming months).
Thank you, GCN. As a daily commuter for years now I can confirm all of your tips. The only thing I miss in your list are disc brakes. When commuting you ride far more often in wet conditions than in training rides, where you may adjust your riding time more to the weather forecast. And disc brakes were one of the most valuable upgrades I did. And you're right: safety and comfort are more important for commuting. This is, why I finally got an gravel bike. They nearly have all your upgrades united in one bike.
Me to. Disks, bosses for panniers and guards, study frame, drop bars for more comfort and pretty fast with the right tyres.
I used to do 1-2 comutes to work per week, but since i got myself a gravel bike I ride every day, doing 200miles per week. all the points checked.
I like new videos...
A good place to start is an upright city bike, not a hybrid or racer. You will be much safer in an upright riding position that will allow you to easily be aware of your surroundings. And if you do crash, you won't be going head-first into something. Check out what the Dutch do. They are super experienced city riders, and they don't bother wearing helmets.
Best commuter for me is always the hardtail. Bunny hopping everything in sight is the best way to get to work.
Same thing here. Hardtail commuter for life.
Thanks for commuter content. We commuters appreciate the information.
I use my Caad12 for fitness,, commuting, charity rides etc. I use lights all the time along with my Blaze colored Timbuk2 backpack. Luckily I teach at a High School with good shower facilities and my office where I keep my clothes for the commuting days.
Alright, once I'm back commuting will definitely bring out the Aeroad and my race kit as well ;)
I used to own a trekking bike which served me well for getting to the shops, to uni and to later start commuting to work (18km both ways). - then I moved and got my first steel road bike (It was the cheapest 2nd hand bike available). After moving to another city in Austria I got a alu-road bike. Simple bike. I commute 2-4 times/week to work, 50km. I still use a backpack and have a simple set up. The points you make in the video are great for people who cycle regularly and own a road bike. I find, one of the most important things is keeping things safe and dry + make the trip as enjoyable as possible - because it is gonna be super boring and hard some days. Therfore beeing able to do everything with as little work as possible is key for me. Leaving clothes at work, having accessible pockets for bananas, MP3-Player, ... is important for my commuting style. And dry days are the best days for commuting. hands down ^^
When I commuted in the times before I think I had it down
Over-sized bike packing saddle bag for Change of clothes and lunch
Frame bag for bike tools and on bike essentials. Vest/Jacket arm or leg warmers.
Bike is a gravel bike 650b 1.9 tubeless.
I tried puncture proof thinner tires and they never lasted. Bigger may be a little slower but the piece of mind is worth it.
Puncture resistance of Pirelli Cinturato is amazing. I have been using it tubeless on the rear wheel for over one year and no flats so far (approx 4000 km ridden). On front wheel I have the Conti 4 Season clincher. Another excellent option. Only two flats on the same period and descent grip on the rain
Some mini aerobars for those mornings you are running late. And with two toddlers it seems like that’s most mornings for me !
I did not see a bike with racks or a bike with fenders. In other words you were commuting on your race bikes.
I did it for a few years on mine, a Look 675. So much fun ripping it with a nice lightweight bike, makes the commute enjoyable.
I do that in the summer as I only need to transport my lunch and maybe a rain jacket so a small backpack will do. I sometimes even commute on my TT bike if I'm quite sure it's not going to rain. In the winter I use a 90:s mountain bike converted into a "gravel bike" (drop bars, road chainset) with a rack, a pannier, mudguards, studded tyres, lights, lots of reflectors etc.
I commute through NYC every day on a carbon endurance racing bike with removable plastic fenders when need be and use a bikepacking saddle bag for my stuff. It makes my commute so much more fun being able to feel faster compared to a typical commuter bike with racks/panniers etc. I don't have to leave the bike outside, which is a big factor though, as if I couldn't do that it would have been stolen at some point.
Yeah if you need to pick up groceries and go back home with them or god forbid if you’re caught in a thunderstorm you would need a bag to put a rain suit in and also a separate sandwich bag to keep your electronics dry. That bike computer/gps/heart monitor they advertise all the time? I doubt they will withstand a downpour.
Never use a backpack if you can help it, panniers are better and your back won’t sweat to death (and it won’t hurt after 5+ miles)
I also didn’t see a change of shoes or goggles for when the rain gets really hard, either.
Also... where do you put the bike locks for when you’re at work? anyone? No? Ok 😂
@@Sarah_Kinz "Never use a backpack if you can help it, panniers are better and your back won’t sweat to death" now that depends on what backpack one uses - I use a Deuter AirComfort that has a web mesh gap between the bag and my back and there are other brands with the same. After years of rattling speed-resisting panniers I ditched the rack and panniers and cycles are more comfortable and quicker now.
What about solid tires??
After two flats a week apart on Continental (kevlar lined) Gatorskins I switched to Tannus solid tires - not the easiest install, but are supposed to be good for 8,000 km - I put them on my girlfriend's bike a couple of months ago. We both commute to work and so far the only notable difference is having to ignore the impulse to check tires for pressure. If weight is a concern, mine weighed in at 50 grams heavier than the old clincher tire, tube and rim tape - however, the bike is now lighter without the spare tube (at 90 g), plus CO2, pump, levers, and saddle bag.
A pair of panniers can also be used to carry a lot of groceries, if you're interested in grocery shopping by bike. I can pretty much get a week's worth of groceries, depending on the grocery list (a case of coke won't really fly).
I'll strongly second your suggestion about lights - far too many commuters here do not use lights; maybe they're suicidal?
I think that when we talk about "commuting", it is good to differentiate between short- /mid- and large distance commuting. Totally different story.
I "commute" every day 4 km to my workplace with a 30 year old single speed, back-pedal brake bike with "grandma" seat, totally upright position. My comfortable speed is 20 km/h, which is totally fine for this distance. 30 km/h would mean saving 4 minutes. I can also leave that bike locked on the street with a peace of mind. I have a huge raincoat (poncho) from decathlon that covers me and my backpack, etc. Of course, if I were to ride 30 km to work, that would be a different story. But even on something like 15 km, I'm not sure you gain that much with a roadbike because of traffic lights and whatnot.
I was also a bit surprised that in a commute focused video, varia was not even mentioned in the lights category.
I absolutely agree. My commute is much the same, I ride a 3 speed heavy retro style city bike. Plus it came with mudguards included...and the chain covered so I don't accidentally get my nice work pants dirty. A racing bike would be uncomfortable, more likely to be stolen, and maybe shave off a few minutes of my trip.
Panniers also are a godsend. I can go grocery shopping on the way home and I can fit nearly a week's worth in them.
I'm totally with you, other than the coaster breaks, eek.
Aaron Hauptmann I mean, they're just standard rim breaks, unless you mean that they're pedal breaks? Which I both love and hate equally
@@aaronhauptmann869 Haha, well, I got used to them. It is funny when I try to do the same sometimes on my road bike :-P One huge advantage of that setup of mine is that there is only 1 cable on the whole bike (front brake), and that's it. My bike is a "terminator", it is really difficult to get any damage on it more serious than scratches for the paint. Och, and it also looks cool. At least according to myself :-P
instagram.com/p/Be5EdAQlepF/
@@MateHegyhati yeah that's why I started riding a fixed gear, pure simplicity.
I ride a gravel bike I specifically bought with mounts for mudguards and a rear pannier rack. Number one thing that was missed is a bell, if you're cycling on a mixed use path it's essential, but also useful to give fellow cyclists or road users a friendly warning before you overtake them.
There should also be advice about how to ride in the dark, always angle your lights down, don't set them to flashing unless it is light or they are really low lumen lights.
9:04 I have scoliosis, I've just ordered a bike and I'm wondering what are some things I should buy - this advice is helpful, a panier sounds better than a backpack for me!
I used to have a rack and panniers on a previous bike but the rattling, imbalances and significant decrease in aero concluded in selling them on in favour of an aero backpack with a sweat-mitigating web-mesh layer between the bag and my back. Never rack and panniers again - saddle, frame and handlebar bags rule.
Lights are crucial
1. Don't use a road bike
2. Schwalbe marathon plus
But seriously, how did this get filmed without a single bike showing a rear rack or even the mudguards that specifically get mentioned
Because the UK fundamentally doesn’t get bike commuting. I mean if I was to ride a road bike to work, which I wouldn’t, then it would have a Rohloff or Pinion gearbox. Every day I’d look at my bike and be happy at the fact that I wouldn’t have to clean it and it would keep working perfectly.
@@christill I've commuted on an old Trek road bike for years without issue.
Right? I was confused why they kept running footage of Dan and Ollie when I'm sure they have more relevant footage.
M E That’s not the point. You could ride every day on a rusty old supermarket bike. But it’s pretty clear that low maintenance and durability should be at the top of the priorities for a commuter bike for most people. If you actively choose to ride a road bike that’s fine. But I see so many people with derailleurs on upright bikes when it makes no sense for them to do so, and that’s what bothers me.
What wrong with Schwalbe Marathon Plus? LOL...........They are lightweight and lasted longer,,,,,,,,,,,,,,..............................
Great advice Conor. Get the best equipment you can afford. The money will be well spent. I ride twice a week to work minimum. Good panniers aren't cheap and cheap panniers aren't good. Fenders/mudguards are a must if you plan on being comfortable. Lights I have two sets just in case I don't get the chance to charge them and I carry a power bank for the emergency charging of any light or my phone.
Gloves, gloves, gloves. Commuting in the winter in the 0-10 degC range with a lot of rain, the problem is not so much getting wet, as how cold you will get if wet. If I forget my winter gloves my hands can get so cold I can barely operate the gear shifters. The right gloves are so important . At the other end, goretex shoe covers that are easy to put on and off are a real bonus, as are goretex overtrousers. I often start out in shorts and a goretex jacket in the winter then if it rains stop to put on the goretex over trousers, shoe covers, and winter gloves. And all this is kept in my panniers! The two things I think you should look for in a pannier are a waterproof material with roll top closing, and catches that lock the pannier onto the rack. When you are going hard, an unlocked pannier can bounce off, and people often do not notice for some time. Clear glasses for eye protection in the dark and rain. My commuter has disc brakes. I can go much faster on my commute on a sunny day on any of my rim brake road bikes, but in the dark and rain the discs give me the confidence to still ride aggressively. And the most important thing you need is a healthy scepticism about the abilities and intentions of other road users.
Got me wanting to use my bike again to commute! Nothing better that a fresh morning ride into work and then having a hot coffee well your getting changed.
An essential part of winter or cool/cold weather kit is a good set of gloves. These would be in the same category of arm warmers and leg warmers.
just missed to record the video with a real commuting bike / clothes lol
Is it legal to wear bibshorts and shorts over it?
I commute with bibs and a jersey lol. Work clothes in my bag
While few do it, there's nothing weird with wearing cycling shorts and jersey on commutes. They wick sweat and they dry quickly during the day in time for the evening commute. A quick paper towel wash down in the washroom followed by deo is all that's needed then. Work clothes can be carried in a back-venting backpack. This is what I do.
I'd also advocate buying another bike for commuting. My daily commute is (or was 🙁) relatively flat so I use an aluminium single speed bike with full mudguards. Easy to maintain, keeps me dry and makes my weekend steed feel a lot faster come Sunday morning
Man In Orange same here!
Thirty years of all weather cycle commuting:
* Hub dynamo and fixed lights are my top tip.
* Panniers - not a backpack if you don't want a horribly sweaty back.
* Full mudguards - I am a considerate cyclist (and they work much better).
* Windproof jacket, and not too much underneath.
Thank you this one is really informative, wrote down so many terms I've never heard of, an actually showing some of the gear was great help. Some vids at gcn don't show the products, or show it in passing. I don't like vague winter commute videos like "pedal harder to stay warm" I'm cold even in summer. So again thanks for extra details.
I use a 14 year old claud butler hybrid bike. Have a gravel section so schwabler puncture proof tyres and quick release panniers. 10 mile ride and 800ft of climbing each way. At 52 I am seriously considering an electric bike. Full 5 days this week and i'm aching...
My commute bicycle has a pannier rack and pannier bags very handy and check it full inspection every Saturday on my day off.
Although I'm unable to commute by bike with my career, I love running errands when I can by bike instead!
because miles per day, because suit, or because you have to be at a client location with no ability to change clothes or otherwise clean off sweat?
@@andreyv116 I work as a professional diver and require a lot of heavy equipment to work.
@@Mrich775 oof that's no fun. Trailers aren't fun and neither is the handling of a cargo bike
@@andreyv116 neither is trying to pull 500kg of gear, I'll take my f150 haha
Definitely tubeless, definitely dedicated mud guards, a front rack is always nice though I use a frame bag, and a dynamo hub with lights to make it easy. Forgetting to charge lights is always a hassle.
Ultralight rain jackets are nice too, packs away small and pulls out nice and quick.
Invested in a full Gore winter setup, well worth the money here in Colorado.
my top tip .. commute by car / public transport on Monday .. but take work clothes for the week with you & bring last weeks back
Due to working from home, I 'commute' 3 mornings a week by riding a 20 mile loop.
For year-round commuters:
1) Use bikes that don't make you poor when it comes to spare parts (wear parts), because the wear and tear of constant stop and go is great.
2) I have a summer and a winter bike to meet the different demands, and the wear and tear is distributed over 2 bikes.
3) Fenders may not be cool but they are very practical.
4) Spare clothes at the workplace are not bad.
5) A commuter bike doesn't have to look good but it has to run well.
6) For shopping on the way home, a luggage rack is a good idea.
Steel or aluminium bike as these won’t mind what conditions you ride in.
Full length mudguards front and rear - when you see how much water they divert, you’ll wonder how anyone goes without.
Puncture protection over rolling resistance - the rolling resistance is minimal compared to a long stop in the rain to fix a puncture.
Panniers over backpack all day - more capacity, no sweaty back, no weight on you
Overshoes (or waterproof shoes) - the amount of spray from a wet road (even when it’s not raining) that gets onto shoes is surprising.
Useful tips. Personally I have a second bike specific to the job, mudgaurds, panier, lights, permanently sorted and fitted, don't have to worry about bashing up my sparkly carbon road bike!
For me personally. Since ive got caliper brakes - I upgraded the pads to Kool Stop Dura 2's. Ive had shimano pads that turn into icecream when commuting in the rain so this is a must for me... My commute was all road so I ran GP 4 Seasons all year round. I did switch to MICHELIN PRO4 ENDURANCE
tyres for two months but that came to an end when i was left stranded after two punctures - One on the ride to work and one on the ride home.
But by far one of the best upgrades I ever had was HR dept allowing me to have two separate lockers so that meant that i didnt constantly need to carry a change of clothes and other things constantly back and forth. I easily made do with a small messenger bag or my Deuter Race EXP backpack as I never carried anything heavy
I started to use a rear flashing LED light even in sunny daylight because the shadows of buildings and tree canopies are very dark for drivers approaching from the rear. Drivers may be inattentive and their windscreen may be in poor condition. And I don't wear black cycling clothes on the open roads.
It's not super necessary, but my commuter bike has a (loud horn)🙃 I rarely use it, but it has come in handy🤘
My city bike is an Achielle city bike with duomatic internal drivetrain, and a coaster brake. Pretty much maintenance free with almost nothing to break or adjust. If your legs are strong, you won't need more than two gears for relatively flat city riding.
Thanks for the videos, keeps me entertained in these bad times!
While rechargeable lights win on some aspects of convenience, three 360+ mile (579+ kilometer) trips from Buffalo, NY, USA to Albany, NY, USA show that rechargeables are extremely difficult to maintain on long distance road rides, especially when they're competing for precious charging block resources. It's like a law of nature that they'll run out shortly after needing them, and then you're left on the side of the road linked to a battery charge pack until they're sufficiently filled. Yes, planning better can help; but then there's reality and the competing demands upon one's time.
Better, I've found, is to accept that remembering to recharge is going to be a problem and just bring along one or two extra batteries for use on battery operated bike lights. Even if you run out for some reason, you're almost guaranteed to be able to find batteries at roadside convenience stores (at a premium price, of course) and be back on the road quickly.
I say all this as someone who does light local and long distance riding, and really dislikes having to have separate gear for each purpose. Buying one set of battery operated lights can be used conveniently for both purposes. On the other hand, I no longer trust rechargeable lights to survive on long distance trips as they've failed, in whole or in part, each time I've attempted long crossings (with name brand gear).
On a long trip I'd definitely carry at least two fully charged 18650s for my B01 (don't have any 21700 batteries yet), for the reason you mentioned. Torches and batteries nowadays are great but we still have a long ways to go.
00:28 ‘Handy upgrades for your next Komoot.’ A subliminal plug or a long day at the office? 🤔
I hear/noticed that, too. SNEAKY
@@jeremysweeten2792 I still get a chuckle whenever someone references that, after all this time. For those who have no idea what we're talking about: ruclips.net/video/ghRL9thv7kU/видео.html
I carry my work clothes in on Monday and dirty clothes home on Friday using an LL. Bean backpack I got back when I was in middle school. I'm now almost 40 so that thing has had a good 30 year run. Thinking about getting a new backpack, vendors now make cycling specific and even commuter specific ones. Might be nice to see some sort of review of this space and things one might want to consider when selecting a new bag. I don't actually need another one but maybe I'm missing out of some cool features or something.
These guys never come out of their suits do they
One thing you missed. A high decibel horn. Not as a replacement for a bell, but as protection from the no-look drivers on junctions. I'm sure anyone else who commutes by bike know this person, particularly during the darker months, they don't see bright headlights so assume it's safe to pull out without looking.
I use the horn at most 1/50 rides. But that one time can save you.
I rock a bell to politely let pedestrians know I'm approaching and a 140db horn the make sure drivers wake up in the dark mornings.
Please make a video about what to keep in your running vest
Bike locks! Deodorant! Antiperspirant!
Baby wipes ftw
Or just take it easy, and relax, and get a frame lock and plug-in chain that wraps around the seat post. The latter which 99% of the cycles on NL have.
My Ortlieb Velocity Backpacks are high on my list of commuter needs.
I've tried it I wouldn't really recommend it. If you can put a rack on that would be better if it does add more weight. And they're easier to pack. Believe it or not you won't have anyone going for your bike packing bag either when you leave it locked outside. LOL
I got overly excited seeing that 2-second cut of my home city of Gothenburg, Sweden, at the beginning of the video. You should warn us Swedish viewers next time you drop by!
A hiking head torch is a great bit of kit - they usually have a red flashing setting so can be used as a backup front or rear light, and it makes fixing punctures in the dark soo much nicer. Also, I love my Carradice bag if I’m not carrying enough for panniers - lighter, much more convenient than bikepacking setups and obviously cool as.
8:28 or just buy some Ortlieb panniers and they are waterproof from get go and you don't have to triple bag things.
Recommend a mirror also & hivis clothing 😉
My commute is 35km roundtrip, only a quarter is on roads, the rest is on a gravel bike path in the Laurentian mountains. Should talk about different road types and conditions. I go from nice to crappy roads, to gravel path. And Hills, ohhhh those hills !!! ;)
I look at the weather forecast on a Sunday for the coming week. If rain is forecast then that’s the day that I choose to load up the car with enough shirts and trousers for the next two weeks, leaving me free for a good couple of weeks nice riding to and from work. Unfortunately we don’t have a shower, so I do the old “armpits and dangly bits” wash in the bathroom with a face cloth before getting changed
panier rack, dynamo hub, hub gears, mud guards
I bought a mountain bike for general tearing around with my son on the back but then started to enjoy cycling so much I wanted to do more commuting and road cycling. Now I want a road bike but can't afford one but until I can, i'm slowly putting little things on my bike to make the commute a bit easier such as road tyres etc until I can get my first road bike.
FYI, I entered this weeks GCN comp to a win a road bike so bear that in mind guys ;-)
Mud guards were on bikes when you bought them. They were to prevent rocks, assault and mud. They stoped to lighten the bikes.
For me, optimization of my drivetrain is my top priority upgrade for my commuting bike, next is lights and mudguards.
I think that 32mm tyre widht is minimum on comute ride.
I work part time 3 days. I bike commute all three days 14 miles round trip very hilly . I have a cheap bike but it does the job. Light backpack,I bring enough clothes for all 3 days on my first day of work and on my last day of work I bring everything back home. Works good for me. I also pack a small cooler which I strap to my back rack for lunch. I use quad lock mount for phone. I have a loud old fashion squeeze Horne on my handlebars for anything gets in my way. Lol. I takes me about the same time as when I used to drive a car
I've just bought a Topeak trunk bag and rack, and the bag has built in panniars
You talk about “panniers” and “racks” without even showing what they are - I came for info and feel like there’s something I should know but I don’t. I commute daily 20 km each way and tie my backpack with laptop to the carrier above my back tire with an elastic strap - is that a good idea?
Panniers are sturdy bags that have hooks that attach to a pannier rack. The rack above your back tire is probably appropriate. Just ensure that the whole rack is rigid and does not move around easily. (Some older racks had hinged struts and were not very secure.)
Good panniers like Ortleib and Deuter have locking systems that automatically engage when you release the carry handle and are water proof. These are best.
Just a note of caution on tying a back pack to the rear rack. The straps can work their way near the spokes and get caught which would cause an accident.
Happy riding!
Adam Watson thanks, but what advantage do panniers have over a rack? Surely a rack is lighter. Is it just that panniers handle bag straps easier. I tie the bag straps together so they can’t fall in the spokes
@@idjles HI Idjles. It sounds like you already have it pretty sorted. Since you already have a rack so you could either tie your backpack to the rack or put panniers on it. I find paniers more convenient - no need to tie, more waterproof and durable, more room ie panniers come in different sizes with 40 litres being about the largest (per pair) You could manage this easily on a bike but a 40 Litre back pack is going to be unmanagable on the top of a rack. Also with panniers your centre of gravity is lower so your bike handles better. It depends on how much you need to carry and how heavy it is.
It sounds like you don't have to carry very much so what ever works for you is fine.
I teach music so I carry an Alto sax, clarinet, flute, computer, change of clothes, books and lunch so I have two panniers full, a rack top bag from topeak and a back pack and I cart this to 3 different schools and travel about 150km per week for my commute so panniers are a must.
Enjoy
Fun to see a second of footage filmed in the city I live in (0:36)
So-called full length fenders do not come down behind the wheel low enough to shield the lower legs and feet from front wheel spray. One solution is to use a rear fender up front, cutting some length off the front and rotating the fender back so that the back end of the fender or its mudflap if it has one, is about 10cm from the ground.
I've been bike commuting for the past 3 years straight to work. My suggestion is this: Forget about any upgrades and changes on your road bike and go buy you a 500-1000 pound touring bike. Touring bikes are designed for commuting and carrying stuff. They got 1.75 tires with better puncture protection and are overall much better for that job. Vy doing this, even if someone steals your bike it's not that much of a big deal, imagine your 5K - 10K road bike being stolen. It's worth the investment. Don't commute on your road bike; buy a touring bike.
@Ameer Still not the best option if you have an expensive bike and if you use the same bike for riding and training. Imagine having to remove the rack, change wheels, and adjust your brakes every time you want to ride (no commute). If you want so much to commute on a road bike get a cheap gravel bike instead. They have wider tires and are better suited for commutes. Again, don't sacrifice your expensive road bike to commute. It's not worth it. You can also benefit from riding on flats instead of clits. This way you also don't need to bring an extra pair of shoes with you.
I have got to have a bt speaker strapped to the bike for those jams.
Cameras on bikes for commutes are essential.
Yo are you gonna put a pannier on that aeroad???
I’m thinking of getting a Tailfin bag as a replacement to my rucksack. Could be useful for longer rides or training sessions before/after work.
Screw upgrades! I want to know exactly what bikes you have? You have good taste! I’m short in comparison (only 6’3”) and love all your bikes and colours
The on-bike cam is cool! 🤳🚴😎
I ride Continental Gatorskins, pretty light/quick but also robust
Proviz jackets, highly recommended for night rides. Makes you so visible at night.
Nice vid! Nice to know about mud guards
Keep your bike clean weekly & check the tyres for bits of any debris stuck in there. Check the weather day before and pack accordingly. Wear bright clothes hi vis where possible. Don't react when drivers mouth off or start giving you shit just let them go and be on their way. Be safe and enjoy the privilage of being able to bike it to work everyday
The bike fits you nicely
1. Wing mirror, bell / horn, rack, waterproof bag / pannier.. Paramo enduro windproof and fleece.
A beat up looking bike with smooth running components is the best bike for commuting
I saw an auction for the Giant defy advanced 2011 version for 800 aud do U think it's worth it?
Great suggestions. Have you tested any phone mounts? I don't have a cyclometer so I just use my phone, which provides the added bonus of active GPS. Thoughts?
I love the FINN. It's basically a piece of silicone that wraps around the handlebar and the top and bottom of your phone.
Some might not like that it takes slightly longer than a turn and click thingy that is permanently mounted on your bike and your phone.
I like that the FINN is very secure and does not rattle. It fits any phone, no installation needed. I only use mine when I need directions, which is not very often, but I always have it with me just in case.
Remember: Anything that locks in with a turn can open when you inadvertently touch your bike. I've seen a friend drop and destroy his brand new phone like that while we were chatting at a street corner...
Every time you do maintenance find your kms for that bike on Strava, then email that figure to yourself with a description of what you did (eg new chain, cassette, etc). Title that email ‘Maintenance odometer’. You’ll have a record of how many kms you have on that chain and how many kms you got out of that tyre.