it's fine as long as the bike path is plowed. also studded tires help if it is slippery(sometimes there might be ice under snow so you might think snow is the issue but it could very well be ice.)
In our region it's a solid no-no since our winters are mostly -20C to -35C. Though we have a couple of cyclists in town that still commute at this temperature.
I started commuting by bike (in the UK) in 1988 and back then, and for the next couple of decades, I alternated between bike and car. For the last 10 years though I've commuted exclusively by bike. There have been only three days when I have had scratch: two days when the roads were sheets of ice and one day when there was a red weather warning for wind. On each of those days I wouldn't have felt safe driving yet alone cycling. Apart from that, I agree with Si, just get out there and ride. It's never as bad as you think! PS My commutes have always been approx. 30-45 minutes.
My tip is to lay out all your clothing and kit, pack your bag and have bike ready at the front door the night before (I fetch mine in from the shed before bed). Then when you wake in the wintery dark to rain lashing against the windows it is easier to motivate yourself out onto the road. Si is right, it's never as bad as you think once you're out.
Bike commuter in Ontario, Canada here. This advice is fantastic and almost all applies to our slightly colder winters too. Love the cheap hacks like plastic bags to keep clothes dry. One thing I would recommend for anyone commuting is be able to drop a layer mid-ride. If you leave the house feeling warm you'll get too hot halfway through, and if you don't dress warmly enough, you'll freeze the first 10 minutes of your ride. I leave the house too warm and lose a layer midway through and it's the perfect balance.
My approach is that if I'm just a bit too cold as I'm leaving, then once I've got going and warmed up I'll be just right. - assuming there isn't an icey gale blowing.
I also ride in any weather. As a Brazilian livin in Germany it was dificult in the beginning because I was not used to cold and wet weather, but after a while I invested in some warm and water proof clothes and now I do ride every day and in any weather! Even when it is snowing. And I must say I don't change for a cosy warm car stuck in trafic jam!!!
I'm 41 and do this literally every day in Switzerland and on top of that I walk every day with my Huskys a 7.5km forest way 300 meters up a hill and down again. Please respect me! 😁😁😁
Full coverage mudguards are 90% of the solution, negating the need for any waterproof gear when it's not actually raining. In winter the roads are wet most of the time but heavy rain in the UK is usually limited to a few hours a week and we tend to get light drizzle if anything in the long gaps between showers.
totally agree…. rain gear just creates its own rainfall inside of your clothes…. I just wear regular clothes and then hang them up to dry if need be… Except for feet…. wet feet really affect a person psychologically…. booties - overshoes are useless in rain, water comes up thru the cleat hole and over the top…. So i use Shimano winter boots with full coverage gaiters…
@@PRH123 Yeah, I used to try and keep my feet dry with overshoes, but you still get wet feet through the cleat holes and that makes overshoes a worthless combination of "extra effort" AND "still no good"! A full front mudguard that's long enough to stop the spray reaching your feet is the only real answer. It's not what you want on your sexy summer race bike, but for half the year on this soggy island, full guards really do solve the problems that nothing else can....
The waterproof trousers are a gamechanger. I own the same agu-trousers and since I have them I cycle with any weather. What I especially love about them is that the legs can be openend all the way up to the waist, so I even have to take the shoes off, when I need to put them on. This winter I rode to work almost every day and the best benefit of it: I haven‘t been sick despite literally everyone around me having colds and influenza. I have an electric bike for my everyday rides. I love it, it allows me to get to my destination way faster, with less effort.
Three more issues, which I think are important as well. 1) When turning a corner in Summer you lean the bike towards the kerb. Thus, the bike is on a angle. In Summer not much of a problem, but in Winter, when the streets are slippery, the bike might slide from underneath you. Thus, I keep the bike straight and lean my upper body into the corner. 2) Change the tires, when the profile gets bare. 3) Due to the weather conditions the rims get wet and the rim brakes don't work as they do under dry conditions.
Some great tips! When riding in winter you do need to adjust your style a little, slow and steady is a good idea 🙌 - We've long been advocates for disc brakes, they really come into their own in winter!
A decade of commuting in Finnish winters, now a decade of commuting in Northern (ish) English winters. The latter is WAY more soggy and muddy. I use a gravel bike and use traffic free paths where possible, but in winter i sometimes stick to the roads and put up with traffic to avoid the endless muddy and gloopy puddles on the canal tow paths and bridleways. Winter SPD boots more important in the UK, because wet feet get cold faster than dry feet in sub zero temperatures, at least down to sensible temps like -10 celcius.
I have another one: batteries. Batteries are a lot less effective in the cold, so it can be helpful to dim your headlight a bit (but still visible) and keep a Garmin or similar device somewhere where it will be more protected from the cold, like near your body or in your bag. Depending on the length of your ride and the temperature it can be less of a problem, and they'll get power back in from being in a building away from the cold without actually being plugged in, but it's still something to keep in mind so they don't stop partway through a ride. Headlights might need a recharge just because of two rides in the dark, but the rest should be okay. And unless you have a really bright tail light, they use so much less power that you can pretty much treat them the same as you would in the warmth, maybe a charge a day or two earlier.
Agree all around. 40 years commuting year-round in the states through the snows of western NY and Massachusetts and now Maryland (where "winter" seems more like what's in the video i.e. practically nothing). There is seldom a reason to put bikes up completely for the winter unless, as another commenter pointed out, the snow is deeper than your bottom bracket. Then, it's time to grab XC skis or snowshoes and keep on going.
My rule for my commute is that I'll cycle in any two of it being, wet, windy or icy, but not when it's all three at the same time. Getting some good waterproofs that keep me dry in the heaviest of rain greatly improved the pleasure of the winter commute.
Yeah, as much as I like to commute by bike there are two things I draw the line at, ice and storm force winds. You can say what you like but riding a bike in 70mph winds isn't good and ice = risk.
Just this morning I was on ice and caught a 40mph crosswind that slid my bike right off into a snow bank lol but lucky that I wasn't on the other side of the road and blown into traffic. No more ice riding for me until I get some studded tires mounted.
The conditions featured in this video is what we have in September-October in Central Norway. This year the snow came early, in late November, along with -10 to -15 degrees Celsius, which quickly turned the pavement into an ice skating arena and the car roads not too much better. So even with studded tires, it's dangerous, and in some cases - impassable. The worst is the flaky snow produced by cars when they get out of the driveway. Feels like riding with skinny tires on sand dunes. Studs don't help as the snow is too thick. Deep, frozen tracks from pedestrians and bicycles are a close second: Like riding over small craters in a moon landscape. Try making a video in these conditions, GCN :) !
I reckon, bike care is also more than throwing on some oil every month or so and you need to prep your bike for it work in those conditions. In Austria, I usually get away with normal maintenance and more frequent cleaning and lubrication but last week we had rain followed by cold weather and my shift cable stuck because it froze. That was luckily a one-off, as is snow ... my regular 38 mm street tires do nothing when you have to ride on snow.
Here in central canada we've had the exact opposite winter so far. We're still in the balmy single negative digits (C). Everything you've mentioned is the bane of my cycling. Ruts, that slushy car snow, and polished icy roads make it a challenge. Really, riding in any season is doable with the right gear. I do miss summer rides where it doesn't take me 15 minutes to get all my layers on.
Haven't lived in a snowy climate in awhile, but I've biked on the occasional crushed up ice and snow when it comes down here. Throughout school into college in Missoula, MT, US I rode most days regardless of the roads. It was an interesting adventure. Not for everyone, but I had a great time smushing in the snowdrifts. Sometimes I have to get off and walk, but it beats all other modes in the end.
Great, informative promotion of Commuting through winter Si. I commuted to work for several years the best thing for me was a) the "detox" from work stresses on the way home in the dark, and b) not being stressed about speed and performance because I couldn't read my head unit in the dark!😂 much more relaxing ride😉 I now work from home so "have to" ride at lunchtime 😄
I’m in Edinburgh. I’m almost 30 years into riding to work in winter. Can get Pretty icy up here so I just use an old rigid mountain bike 26x2.1 with mudguards. Winter running gear tends to be cheaper than cycling. I use a lot of Nike stuff. Layers and two part jackets are a winner. Cotton kills.
Love this segment Si! I've been commuting by bike for many years. Right now I live a bit outside of rainy Seattle and have just a short commute. I still use the rain pants I bought 30 years ago when I commuted by bike in Denmark. My colleagues think I'm crazy to come by bike in the rain but the fresh air is just the best!
Really well done video. I'm a year round commuter in the Boston, MA area. If you're in an area like New England with melt/refreeze conditions running studded tires is a good idea. If you have a long commute, having a secondary front light on the bike can save you if the primary light fails for whatever reason. Drivers have also told me that my high viz helmet cover is very eye catching since it's generally visible above the roofs of cars.
High vis helmet covers sound like a great idea - putting the reflective pattern on a moving body part can really help draw attention to yourself. We're lucky to not need studded tyres but would love to give them a try 👀
@@gcn Oh, completely agree on the moving reflective stuff being attention grabbing. And the larger point about assuming drivers don't see you/look through you. I use 700x28 Schwalbe winter marathon studded tires with reflective sidewalls. They are slow as all get out, but you can ride on water covered ice like you're riding on rails with them. Of course the cars aren't as sure footed in those conditions.
Great advice, especially the one about ride as if you haven’t been seen. That’s something I learned during my motorcycling days, especially going round roundabouts, and carried through to cycling. “Ride as if they can’t see you, and as if they can see you and want to kill you.” Another winter hack is that I use a snowboarding helmet if the weather is particularly bad. Keeps the ears from freezing, plus no need for a hood on your jacket, which I find annoying especially for the lifesafer check behind before changing direction
we recommented a service assessment in sept-oct and then again in mar-apr this allows you the peace of mind that before and after the worst of the winter weather your bike does what you want it too
A few years ago, I picked up a rain jacket from Outdoor Research. It's not a cycling jacket, it wasn't crazy expensive, and it totally changed the feel of winter riding. Invest a few dollars and don't hang your bike up just because it starts raining.
As a year round bike commuter in Boston, MA, USA I'm fortunate to have about three additional ways to get around in case the bike commute doesn't work out. Its always good to have a backup plan, even if bike commuting is your primary commuting mode. My favorite part of winter riding is that I have more opportunities to clean my bike off--its definitely cleaner than in the drier months.
In really cold climates one amazing upgrade are ski goggles paired with a buff or scarf or balaclava. They keep snow out of your eyes and ensure that almost none of your face is exposed.
Top tip on the plastic bag inside your backpack. When I was in the military I used to always use a heavy duty black bag that doesn't tear easily, inside my rucksack. Kit never ever got wet
Great report, Si, and you're correct, when you get in the bike commuting groove, it becomes quite routine but it is always a step up in commitment and time and adventure and such. And I look forward to reading comments, but for now, one tip I'd offer is attaching a front and rear light to the top of a helmet with, uh, zip-ties or whatever. I find that for commuting, it is nice to have a light up there to direct on the bars or ground or wherever you need to see, plus a high taillight is good to have, too. And at age 64, I am having a lot of fun with an e-bike conversion kit, a Green Zone Bikes 250w front-hub motor with a thumb throttle and a Samsung battery which I stash in a rear pannier on my Diamondback Sorento which used to be a basic alloy 26" mountain bike. And we know there is absolutely no shame in the commuting game, so run whatever you run and make the most of it. And there is so much to gain from commuting, if only the mental and physical warm-up before work and winding it all down en route home.
I bit the bullet and got an on sale Lumos helmet (other brands of helmets are now putting on integrated lights, too!) and its made a real difference on these winter nights. The throw on the Lumos is much wider than a standard front light and really lights up any reflective spots.
@@notl33t I like your endorsement of that helmet and I probably should do the same. And I will look into it. And I know that lights zip-tied to the top of a helmet is sort of bootleg in the meantime. 😀
You're right, Si! It's never as bad as you think! I live in rainy Vancouver and commute to work about 10kms each way all year. Surprisingly, it's not too often that I get caught in a huge downpour. I look forward to my commutes to and from work, and I wouldn't trade that time for anything. You just need the right clothing. Commute=Priceless!
This video really touched on everything. Especially the "high vis means I'm going to pull drivers attention away from phones and infotainment" mentality has definitely been observed by me over the last 11 or so years, and lights to an extent do the same.
My issue with commuting by bike is winter is just how much I sweat. Once you get the right layers and gloves and mask it's easy. Wind resistance stuff is the best and maybe heated gloves for really cold days. Ohh an some nice wool socks. Also tern makes lights for the bars for the clubhouse. They are rechargeable as well.
After working outside for over 8 years I became kind of a master of dressing comfortable in winter/rainy conditions, as there is almost nothing as intolerable to me as being cold & wet. General principles are to always use multiple thin layers. Find out how many layers work for you. With multiple layers you can easily add or remove them as you please to find just the right balance. You don't want to over-layer as you end up getting hot and sweating which just makes you more cold, so you have to find the optimal level of warmth without sweating. I'm very thin so I tend to prefer lots of layers (3 for high 40s-low 50s F, 4 for high 30s low 40s F, and 5 for sub-freezing). Baselayers on bottom (prefer polypropylene, microfiber, or polyester), merino wool in the middle, and windproof/waterproof shell on top (prefer polyurethane/PU). Insulated shoes & wool socks. Neoprene face mask. For hands use neoprene bar mitts/pogies, never gloves with individual fingers (unless maybe they're neoprene diving gloves). Mittens are better though they're not good for cycling.
I cycled to work for 25 years, 5 days a week 34 miles per day in all weather. My clothes were a good quality Goretex, seam sealed jacket, under it a normal cycling shirt, long sleeved or short depending on temp, a pair of ron hill tracksters, neoprene overshoes, over normal cycling shoes, no overtrowsers at all because i always rode at full speed, creating heat and ron hills were easy to dry over a radiator at work. A motorcycle under helmet balaclava for cold or wet days, particularly in hail or snow, helmet, glasses and insulated neoprene covered gloves for the wet cold days, lighter ones on better days. I was lucky, i had a hot shower at work, which was the best thing you could have. I carried a full set of light weight, clean clothes, wrapped in several plastic shopping bags inside my back pack, to stop them from getting wet on route, which also contained tools, innertubes and a spare folding tyre as well as my food for the day. I also carried spare spokes, placed inside my handlebars. All punctured innertubes were repaired at work at lunch time. Punctures were replaced with new innertubes on route, taking a max time of 5 minutes or so, through extensive repetative experience, usinf a full size frame fit hand pump ( a must ) I kept shoes at work to change into. In the winter, even down to minus 20 degrees c on odd occasions, i used to push my bike off our estate, where i lived, if the snow was too thick, then get in the vehicle ruts in the snow and then ride the rest of the way to work. On the windiest day, with the wind, i rode the 17 miles to work in 28 minutes and on the windiest day against me, i recorded my slowest time of 17 miles in 1 hour 20 minutes. Nothing stopped me, ever ! They thought that i was mad at work, i must have been looking back. This is how this northerner cyclist commuted, southern softies need not apply lol.
Good to see someone else running the two lights system. I do the same as flashing lights are more visible from a dynamic perspective and the solid light allows other road users to gauge your distance, speed and direction. And as for high viz, all my waterproof clothing is black but I wear reflective and flouro yellow body belt, and snappers on my limbs. It's subtler than a bright yellow jersey but still enough to be seen.
thank you for the explanation of the benefits of flashing vs static lights! I currently have just one rear light but think I'll add a second. I have to go through some ridiculous city junctions and I want to be as clear to other road users as possible
Strong headwinds were the worst (I'm retired now). But if it is really cold, cover your ears. And use panniers rather than a sweaty and horrible backpack.
@@gcn they do slow you a little but surprisingly not by that much. Annoyingly noisy on clear tarmac though. What does slow you down is fresh snow, even relatively small amounts, but studded tyres mean if it's icy but no fresh snow you don't really need to slow down that much because of ice. About 10 years cycle commuting in Helsinki taught me this. Now cycle commuting just south of Sheffield it's the mud on the canal path that slows me down and spoils my winter commute at it's worse.
Currently commuting in 10-15cm deep snow (on "clean" roads), some of it is puffy and loose on top of ice. Using 29" tubeless ice spiker pros with 402 spikes each wheel on a gravel-ish bike with a gearbox and belt drive as a normal derailleur would get jammed up and the chain turns to rust after a single ride due to road salts. Also using a canecreek suspension seatpost to prevent back pain. Cycling on anything less rugged would be miserable.
Is it a drop- or flatbar bike? I would think flat bars would offer more control over icy road (thinking about winter commute after returning from Southern Japan, where there's no winter essentially, back to central/northern Europe with heavy snowfall). Also, love that you're using belt drive system - they are slightly less efficient, but god is their maintenance (i.e. basically lack of need of one) amazing!
It started as a flat bar gravel bike, but put surly corner bars on it due to wrists preferring the hood/drop position over flat bars, handling is quite similar to flat bars. The (lack of) maintenance is a godsend.. all I need to do before rides is check tyre pressure and occasionally check bolts and clean brake rotors.
Commuting in northern germany with an s-pedelec: quiet the same gear as GCN uses. Waterproof pants over the jeans (wind and waterprotection), a thin waterresistant jacket, three different pairs of gloves (mild, cold and freezing temperatures), shoe covers, a fix mounted 150LUX LED-headlight plus a extra-powerful LED-Lenser and… a pair of Continental top contact winter - works perfectly at all surfaces
It’s easy cycling in Uk during the winter. Mainly is wet and windy. Waterproof trousers cover are brilliant. I’m using Regatta brand , same as a top , cheap and does the job. Mudguards are essential as well , lights also. Thanks really good video :)
20km commute - good on you Si. I'm only 5km one way - but forgot the keys and racked up 15km this morning. In the great white north - salt, slush, ice and snow are the norm for three months. Lights are very important and I never expect shifters to work a month in (been disconnecting front shifter for decades) and rear brakes rarely work for more than month and it's not usual for the brakes to simply not work (praise be Flintstone brakes - issue with global warming and instead of things staying frozen - daytime getting just above freezing to get water into the cables and then it drops to -10C and everything is frozen solid). A used bike typically lasts one winter (pedals, derailleur and freewheel fails, chain worn out and ring(s) likely shot) but can be often make it thru a 2nd winter when the bottom bracket and wheels fail and all cables and housings need to be replaced and pretty well everything is rusted in place (cranks, pedals). It really makes one appreciate getting onto the "summer" bike again. A winter day with a few inches of fresh snow covering everything is an amazingly quiet experience.
This is why I typically ride single speed or fixed year round and have indoor storage for my bike. Indoor storage is a huge luxury that means my bike can make it through nearly a decade without too much maintenance.
As I've been bike commuting for over 20 years in Paris, all year long. You're spot on, about the essentials. I'm very pleased to see more and more content about commuting in this channel. Way to go, guys!
Shouts to the Berghaus Deluge, been wearing them for 5 years of commuting and they're a bomb proof set of waterproof trousers. I couple them up with a set of gaiters which cover the gap between your shoe and your trousers when the rain is really bad. Brilliant. I never wear cycling kit to commute in the city. I might have to invest in the rubber shoes. My goretex boots can get a bit whiffy over lots of time in the rain. Those rubber shoes look spot on.
Excellent video as always! I commute on a non electric cargo bike all week (8 miles each way) no matter the weather, a tip an old colleague gave me years ago was (this sounds really bad) 'car drivers, treat them all like they are trying to kill you' - to me that tip works all the time, and in winter I pay more attention to it I.e when a car is pulling out look at the front wheels for movement, if you see ice assume that any car going near it is gonna skid on it (and other cyclists for that matter) - even though that probably sounded bad I completely agree with si in saying that ita never as bad as you think it will be, get out there and give it a go!
I'd get a pair of Goretex lined leather oxford work shoes with safety sole over those rubber boots. Can be had for about 15 bucks from the used shoe store, very comfortable for all day use. Rubber safety sole is the ultimate in bike foot comfort and your feet won't slip in the rain. Another thing I like to use instead of waterproof trousers is a ski bib with built in boot blousings. You don't even need to fit fenders to your bike if you use this, because your entire backside will be waterproof.
Commuting in Denver for last 8 years, and I like your recommendations a lot. Only missing parts for colder than UK winter are face mask and clean glasses (to see in dark) to protect you from chilly wind.
I’ve commuted by e-bike when it’s down to -30F and windy, it’s all about gear. Normal ski/ winter gear works great, just remember your layers. Sometimes you need to go with electrically heated mittens/ socks as you can’t layer your hands/feet enough for the really cold and wind/speed.
I cycle at least a few weeks / year at below -30F temperatures, and have never had real problems with by e-bike. Only some sort of warning on the screen about too low temperature or something, but does not seem to affect the functionality of the bike all that much. Personally I never use heated mittens/socks, as those can be problematic if you run out of battery, or they break, or something, especially as I sometimes cycle quite deep in the forests, and such, much rather just layer up, and not take the small risk. I disagree with your comment about not being able to layer hands/feet, personally I just use multiple layers of mittens, outermost of which are wind-proof, and a wind-proof winter boots, with multiple layers of socks, never really had any problems even when it's cold and windy.
I have been cycling in winter for 3 years now, this is a lot of fun, especially in snow) Using MTB with light mudguards for this purpose, knobby tyres work really well in this conditions. Of course, waterproof and reflective clothing with light are must-have Additionally, I give a little rinse to my bike after every ride just to get rid of salt from a road and potentially extend the life of components
@@userdjee834 The same here. Since this winter I have a Shimano Alfine 11 and a Gates Belt. Doesn't work well, as soon it's cold. The switch cord is too sensitive to cold weather.
@@userdjee834The factory grease in Alfine hubs is too thick in freezing conditions. Do an oil bath dip of the internals. Shimano oil is expensive, car auto transmission oil works well.
I typically don't need as much waterproof stuff in the winter unless it's actively snowing (almost never get winter rain where I live). The two things that are absolutely essential for me: an active base layer (these can get pricy, but I honestly like the cheap reebok one I got from walmart kinda more than I should lol), and WOOL. SOCKS. The rest is commentary. I also keep a reflective sash rolled up and hooked under my saddle, so I always have something incredibly visible on me, just in case.
A neck buff/loop/headover and a sleeveless light insulated jacket are good for fine tuning insulation, esp if you have hills. A woollen hat should be carried for any off bike emergency.
Good video, well done. Full length 'guards for me, extended with an SKS flap on the front - makes a big difference to keep water off your shoes. I carry all my gear on the bike and I leave shoes etc at work. Hub dynamo , front and rear lights - big investment but worth it over the years. On the occasional day when the Irish wind and rain gets too much I borrow my wife's ebike.
I started to use my bike in winter, last year. Mind you, i'm Montreal Canada. Honestly, it was great. My city is cleaning up the main bikelane network, so, it is easy to do it. The worst weather i biked in was -16 celsius and it wasn't that horrible. Actually, we had the best winter ever in term of bikelane usage. People are starting to adopt this and it's wonderful.
The most difficult part of winter / cold weather riding is that first 200-300 yards / meters. Once you warm up, not overheating is the issue! The benefits? You have the road to yourself, especially if you have access to bike specific trails. I committed to riding all winter season and yes, sometimes it's difficult, but once you get going, you feel like you're riding the Spring Classics or something. Just do it!
I commuted this whole week with -10°C and pretty humid conditions. Well let me tell you that even with good winter gear, you do not overheat, even after 10 or 15 kilometres...
yeah hate to gatekeep but come bike in montreal in winter when it's -20c and tell me if this advice still rings true. there are some days where it is really just not worth the effort - take the bus or something. most of the time it is fine but to say "oh its ok" when you live in bristol is leaves something to be desired
@@team419 I mean people in Sweden, Norway and Finland also cycle in the winter. Maybe with different things as preparation, but sure why not. But it also depends where you live and how "cycling" is placed in the culture there
Hi Si, I agree with most of what you say. I will add Manon's recent video on wet and lights (I think) is worth a look. From my experience as a car driver, when you are driving in the town/city in he dark and possibly rain there are loads of lights (mainly cars etc) and the puny cycle light gets lost in the mass. Sometimes its the shaddow of the rider against car lights which is easier to see. What I mean to say is that crowded streets with lots of lights can make it very easy for the driver to "not see" the rider particularly with the high work load of junctions/roundabouts so Si's warning to take extra care and ride as if you are invissible is really sound advice. Si, may I ask whether you think it wise to ride with a hood? I tried it once long long ago and found I simply couldn't look behind and even found it impeding in looking sideways (say at junctions). I would always wear a rain hat now (helmet cover for you I suppose) because situational awareness is so important when you're mixing it in the traffic. As an aside continue commuting by bike in winter is free trainning getting keeping you in shape for next spring.
Some great suggestions thanks. I'm 64 and bike to work every day even in the rain. Agree to having the gear mentioned plus I have a "Rubber Band Bike" AKA Belt drive with internal hub gears! Absolutely great for commuting and no chain or gears to clean and maintain. The gear was expensive but worth it and after more than 5 years of using it, I have saved way more than the cost of the gear, plus I get some exercise and don't have to get stuck in commuter traffic.
Currently living in Michigan, northern USA. My biggest tip to people wanting to ride in winter; take care of your hands, feet, and face and you’ll be fine. Winter commuting is quite pleasant. 18 months ago I invested in a bike with a carbon belt drive and that makes winter riding so much better maintenance wise.
Always a bit weird seeing Bristol on RUclips. I've only just started commuting to work and I'm so surpirsed how good the cycling infrastructure is here, you practically never have to cycle on thr road. This video is good timing!
I always tell people that if they can go skiing (which most do here in Austria), they can also ride their bikes through winter. The main factor for newcomers to understand is the relation between temperature, body-heat production whilst riding and wind-chill. Imho you need a completely different jacket when you're standing/walking in the cold vs. riding. For riding you need less insulation (at least when going along at a somewhat decent clip) and more wind-proof-ness. Oh and here's my number 1 tip for staying motivated to bike-commute: Don't own a car! :-D
Top tip from me in the UK, is to keep a spare pair of undies/socks in the locker at work! For the times when the downpours are too much for the clothes/bag etc. It's saved me on quite the few occasions!
Definitely! I've got spare socks, undies, trousers, work shirt, and boots in my locker at work! I've also got a box on the back of my bike in which I have another pair of socks, just in case I forget to replace a pair I've actually used!
I commute almost everyday in Berlin and do most things as you do. Here many people have hub dynamos with lighting attached front and rear. You never have to worry about charging anything, and they run forever if the wiring is done well. A hi-viz helmet cover is also a great help. Ride safe!
My Winter Teton riding kit: studded tires, Sorel snow boots, balaclava/neck gaiter, heavy gloves with goretex overmits, ski goggles. Thick insulated pants on legs and jacket on chest, all sealed up in wind pants/ jacket.
Thanks Si for the video. I see a rise of those e-bikes that accommodate two-three kids in here in recent years, specially during the summer. I agree that it is totally possible to have a car free life, I am car free last two years and am loving it. ✌🏾
I'm a year-round commuter in the UK. Nothing too crazy at 12 miles round trip 4 times a week. Best purchase I made was a bike with a carbon belt drive and internal hub gears. Cuts maintenance down massively and such a smooth ride
@@userdjee834 Gripshift then. Worth checking if cable is moving freely and replace if not, as a cheap fix. I haven't gone much below freezing this year, but that's the first report I've seen of your problem. You can dial in the cable tension using the yellow markers in the window on the hub too.
Not all winters are created equal. Here in Ottawa, Canada, what you lot call ‘winter’ we’d consider ‘spring’. Canadians might want to add a couple of items to your winter essentials list. First up, carbide studded winter bike tires. These really help out when cornering on our ice-covered roads. Second item would be a $100 ‘winter beater’ bike as our city dumps an average of 185,000 tonnes of rock salt on the streets in an attempt to melt-off the previously referenced ice. This does quite the number on those shiny, expensive metal bits on a bike. Better to ride a junker that can more economically be sacrificed to the elements and the salt.
Bar Mitts, they're the single best things I've bought for my winter commute in Sweden. Haven't had them for long, but I managed my 11km ride without gloves in -2°C without freezing at all. Don't waste your money on expensive gloves or mittens.
THIS. i tried so many kinds of gloves and never found any that kept my fingers from eventually going numb. finally got a cheap pair of rockbros bar mitts for $20 on ebay, and they were game-changers. hardly ever get frozen hands now.
People either love them or hate them. I hate them :) I'm fine with cross country ski gloves down to -20 C. Depends on the person, my ancestors must have been hot handed :)
Spikes, this is so important for people who are living in icy and snowy regions. I love my spikes aka winter tires. More spikes is in most times better, yes you will lose some over the years because of emergency breaking but you have enough so it is OK. Doesn't apply of course to regions with no icy roads but if you have, that is a game changer for safety. Waterproof pants are also really nice not for getting not wet but to keep freezing cold out.
Puncture resistant tyres are a boon as in Winter the ground is wet and so this wetness lubricates pieces of glass etc through the tyre and into the inner tube. Puncture proof tyres saves a lot of hassle. Always carry at least one spare inner tube if you don't have puncture resistant tyres.
We occasionally get some days like that in the UK and I find those days pretty rough, just pushing hard on the electrolyte tablets and go as slow as I can to avoid feeling like I'm going to pass out. At least in cold temps you can layer up. Obvs ice/snow is something a bit different.
2 tips I have are full fenders and then extended front mudguards so they almost touch the ground, this keepas road spray from getting onto you and the bike. I also recommend slapping some high reflective tape on the bike itself, rear rack, or rims, that way theres more flexibility and affordable to wear normal clothes, and still visible in the dark.
Honestly, hi-vis overalls and work jacket are just about the best thing to wear. They're made to be durable, overalls go up your back which is advantageous for riding a bike. You can even get hi-vis waders that are big enough for you to wear shoes inside them, keeping your feet dry and your shoes clean. Throw in some water-resistent winter work gloves for extra points.
If using a flat bar bike a poncho style raincape is almost all you need for wet weather. I used a Carradice waxed cape for years (7-8 mile commute) which kept the whole of me dry and without the boil in the bag effect that can affect waterproofs.
I'm a fan of capes (try clever cape, in Rhode Island). I commuted for ten years in a suit and tie to court with a cape- it (along with fenders) keeps your pants dry, and the ventilation is good. Surprisingly okay in wind, and it works fine on drop bars also.
Thanks, great video. My additional tip that seems obvious is after a wet ride, where your over trousers (pants) are wet and dirty, keep them on and wipe them clean outside with a wet cloth. That way, when you bring them inside to dry, they will be clean again next time.
My commuting activity is pulling a tandem trail-a-bike with my two older kids to and from school. We've already chosen to stop cycling for the year, based partially on cold and partially on other commitments of time and energy. I wanted to extend the season from last year and bought cold and wet weather clothing to help us extend the season of commuting longer this year than last year. The first layer has been a fleece jacket with elastic cuffs that zips up with a collar that can double as a neck and cheek warmer. Then, the second layer is a waterproof and windproof jacket in a bright color; we also have waterproof and windproof pants (aka trousers) in case we are courageous enough to ride in precipitation. We haven't used the pants more than once. The kids also have gloves and a neck gaiter that can serve as an ear warmer; we've got different helmets to accommodate a bit more space required to wear the neck gaiter as an ear warmer. The gloves are simply required for the kids to endure the cold; I have them wearing the gloves when temperatures drop sub-50 F, and the neck gaiter is needed for sub-40 F. We have not tried riding in sub-freezing weather quite yet, but that was a goal of season extension preparations. We need to give it a try. Riding to and from school is a fairly comfortable distance of about two and one-half miles. In warmer weather, we might comfortably take longer routes--sometimes as much as nine miles of scenic greenways. Colder weather calls for shorter distances and more direct routes. I also have gear for myself that allows for layering to mitigate cold and wet weather. I've comfortably ridden in sub-freezing conditions for personal leisure rides. Because I work from home, I haven't ridden to the office in a couple of years, but I sometimes take a route along the greenways through the campus for a nice leisure ride around the lakes and other corporate landscaping.
I did nearly 40 miles a day round trip for 10 years. I only drove when it was storming or below 25 degrees Fahrenheit. It was awesome and it only took me about 20 minutes more to ride rather than drive.
In the UK it can get snappy! I was riding home from work at midnight that last really cold spell. It was dark, freezing and I had the roads virtually to myself, I actually enjoyed it. This is my first year winter cycling and it really isn't that bad. Yeah there are slog time but you'll get over it.
Man, I never even considered winter would change my behaviour to commuting to work by bike. I just slapped on a coat. I do love all of the TLC tips though. As someone who just had to replace their drivechain, I'm taking each of these to heart.
+1 to "don't overthink it". I'm fortunate to have mostly dry winters, so just needed to keep warm with some fleece bibs and full gloves. Also invested in some high-vis (love the advice to ride as if I'm not yet seen). Watch out for slick parts on the road, it's easy to fall!
As much as I am conditioned to riding through winter. I still long for summer. My suggestions for riding in winter is eye protection. Shields with interchangeable lenses clear, amber, and dark. put a tail light on your backpack. and as with motorcycles ride as if everyone in a car and truck is out to kill you. I do not think high viz was responsible for the accidents I bet if you dig deeper it was distracted driving. Oh, chemical feet and hand warmers are awesome in the winter.
I love winter commuting. Much less traffic on the bike paths (or multi-use paths) than other times of the year. I have an Outdoor Research Goretex jacket that I wear fall through spring. It's waterproof and windproof, and not as expensive as many Goretex jackets. I bought a size larger than I would otherwise wear so I can layer underneath. I live in Wisconsin where it can get very cold, and I find that the OR jacket combined with different layers works very well. When it's really, really cold (below 10 Fº/-12 Cº), I wear merino wool base layer, flannel shirt, down vest, and a cotton hoodie under the OR shell, hence the larger size. Cycling jackets are often too fitted/snug to allow for that many layers. For my legs in the extreme cold, merino wool base layer, flannel lined jeans, and rain pants/trousers when necessary. Alpaca socks under Goretex hiking boots work well for me. The only issue I have is keeping my hands warm when it's extremely cold. Studded tires are a must for this area. I now have two, but until this winter I rode with just one on the front and that was fine most of the time. Ice is no problem at all with the studs as long as it's fairly smooth and not rutted. Deep snow is a challenge for me, even with the studded tires, but in this city they clear the deep snow from the bike paths pretty quickly after a snowfall, often before they finish plowing the streets. The studded tires slow you down a bit, but I find it makes little difference in the time of my commute. They're also quite noisy, but when I'm wearing my winter helmet, which covers my ears, I hardly notice the noise.
The Tern GSD and other built in tail lights are woefully inadequate so if you have an ebike definately supplement like Si. I like the Cygolite brand, worth the investment. I also fit out my wife's GSD with an LED rope light with a cheap external USB battery around the cargo area to illuminate the kids and for better side profile visibilty.
If bike choice is an option a low maintenance bike is super nice as well (to prevent aforementioned regular maintenance). - hub gears - enclosed chain - drum or rim brakes.
Love it. I have a 12 mile commute along a canal which I nearly have to myself on rainy days. It never gets gritted when it's freezing so I keep a set of studded tyres on an old mtb for those days.
Only 2.9 miles away from work and I have never had the desire to learn to drive. So I cycle (or walk) in the winter . Only racked over around 1200 miles this year and today is my last commute of the year! I store dry kit in my locker as well as spare gloves, socks , buff and skull cap in my locker. But also carry my gore helmet cover with me in case as it is sometimes not easy to get my kit that I am wearing dry in time when I leave work. Carry my change of work clothes with me in my pannier bag too. We don’t have a dry room so I have learnt to adapt as best as I can.
I have started cycling as part of my way to get to work after getting off the train at Euston station and cycling 8 1/2 miles to my place of work I am doing this on a electrically assisted cube touring pro Bike a question that I’d like to say it’s not that bad but one of the things that I have realised about it it’s the nearest thing I can get To to feel how it is for the pros going uphill at 15 1/2 miles an hour 😁👍 great video Simon thank you
Fantastic tips, I also would recommend a neck scarf. Postion it over the ears as I find in the winter, when cycling my ears burn but when they are covered by a little neck scarf they are perfect
agree with all the points. I didn't see mention of those of us with slightly poorer vision. A set of cheap bifocal reader safety glasses go a long way in keeping eyes protected from rain, reading navigation on phones/head units, and providing vision to the occasional requirement to read without sacrificing very expensive progressive prescription to road grit from car spray. Might consider if you're like me and need a little help reading.
Studded tires are a must if icy conditions are expected. I would advise against riding in snow deeper than a couple of inches, due to the diffficullty with steering. Fortunately, due to snow clearing in urban/suburban areas, this problem seldom arises during commuting hours. Mountaineering garb is the way to deal with deep cold.
I have to be honest. If the commute is just 10-15 minutes by bike then winter is not as bad as you think. If it is more than 40 minutes, it is in my experience, always worse than I remember it or think 😆
Great video; you seem to have hit all the most important points. (I'm not sure why you don't like the way bikes ride with mudguards, though; I can hardly tell the difference...) The only thing I would add is this obvious thought about tires: if you ride a lot in winter, lightweight racing tires are problematic. You'll get a lot of punctures and you'll probably destroy them within a couple of months. Switching to slightly more robust tires in winter is definitely worth considering.
Is there winter in England 😄😉? I invite you to Western Germany, I live where the National Park, the Eifel begins. Up to minus 15 degrees and ice and snow have become less in the past years, but it's still snowing every now and then. Also, when it rains and it's stormy, it gets ice cold. I bought a Onesie Rainsuit, which I find more comfy because nothing can move up so that rain finds it way in. When it's getting colder there will be salt on the streets, way too much and to early, it's become a crazy precaution-issue here. So this adds another level of caring for my beloved bike.
Living in Plymouth where the rain is so aggressive waterproofs are so essential! I absolutely love cycling in all seasons and feel accomplished especially when it's tearing it down!
Front and rear lights are essential but work best when going with the flow of traffic, adding spoke/valve cap lights, ideally in an unusual colour, are a good addition for urban riding as they make you stand out side on (where you'd usually blend in with other traffic) and the colour being 'wrong' means drivers/pedestrians take longer to assess what they're seeing increasing the likelihood of being noticed, helps reduce corner cutting at junctions as well
It is easy in mild, continental climate as in most parts of Europe or the UK, then all you need is a bike, gloves and some sort of rain cover, not necessarily enthusias-level cycling-specific kit. But only if the conditions are mild - iff you are riding in snow/ice/slush, you might even need studded tires or you're on the ground on the first bend, below -5°C any kind of gloves isn't good enough on longer rides and also bike prep and maintenance gets complicated. In extreme conditions, your shift cables might freeze and if your bike gets covered in ice and slush and mud every day, drivetrain care will become a thing if you don't want to wear our your components quick.
This is the beauty of commuting by velomobile. No need for waterproofs, gloves, and warm clothes. I can ride in a t shirt until at least the freezing point when I switch to long sleeves. Most of the winter I don’t even need gloves. After about 3-4 minutes of pedaling I’m all warmed up. I think my velomobile gets warm before a car heater would even kick in. And bonus, I get there faster than most bikes would get you there, so I’m out in the cold for less time.
i cycle daily, rain, sun, snow or heat wave. weather doesnt make it less fun! not having the correct gear does! if people want a one bike solution all year round, then a gravel bike fits this! can fit 28mm tyres or 47mm.. so ice and snow arent an issue. im lucky enough to have both a gravel and a road bike, an di have to say, there's very little difference in the 2! my hour long commute is about 8 minutes slower in a gravel bike. barely noticeable!
The worse the weather the more enjoyable it becomes, the worst is the fine drizzle. But mega rain storms , bring it on. The ass saver mid guard is great for road bikes, just a small bit of plastic that tucks under the seat but works well.
love commuting: don't care about the weather, as the big yin said "There is no such thing as bad weather , just bad clothing" most conditions in the UK are ridable with the correct kit and I give my bike a clean and oil every 2 weeks through winter. I also use my commute for all my zone 2 riding for the week.
How are you finding commuting by bike in the winter? 🥶
it's fine as long as the bike path is plowed. also studded tires help if it is slippery(sometimes there might be ice under snow so you might think snow is the issue but it could very well be ice.)
In our region it's a solid no-no since our winters are mostly -20C to -35C. Though we have a couple of cyclists in town that still commute at this temperature.
I started commuting by bike (in the UK) in 1988 and back then, and for the next couple of decades, I alternated between bike and car. For the last 10 years though I've commuted exclusively by bike. There have been only three days when I have had scratch: two days when the roads were sheets of ice and one day when there was a red weather warning for wind. On each of those days I wouldn't have felt safe driving yet alone cycling. Apart from that, I agree with Si, just get out there and ride. It's never as bad as you think! PS My commutes have always been approx. 30-45 minutes.
Weird choice of thumbnail backdrop
@@oplkfdhgkjust use the "Smart Sam" by Schwalbe in such conditions, or tires with spikes, when it is necessary.
My tip is to lay out all your clothing and kit, pack your bag and have bike ready at the front door the night before (I fetch mine in from the shed before bed). Then when you wake in the wintery dark to rain lashing against the windows it is easier to motivate yourself out onto the road. Si is right, it's never as bad as you think once you're out.
I do this as well, great time saver, plus I find i don't forget as many things when I do it the night before when I'm actually awake.
I sometimes do it with my breakfast bowl/spoon and tea mug! @@stevenhowes530
This is such a good point! Give you self as little reason to duck out of the ride 🙌 Prep is everything!
Yes, prep the night before really makes all the difference mentally, for sure. I enjoy it.
Excellent point, and I'm not only saying this because I do exactly that myself.
Bike commuter in Ontario, Canada here. This advice is fantastic and almost all applies to our slightly colder winters too. Love the cheap hacks like plastic bags to keep clothes dry. One thing I would recommend for anyone commuting is be able to drop a layer mid-ride. If you leave the house feeling warm you'll get too hot halfway through, and if you don't dress warmly enough, you'll freeze the first 10 minutes of your ride. I leave the house too warm and lose a layer midway through and it's the perfect balance.
My approach is that if I'm just a bit too cold as I'm leaving, then once I've got going and warmed up I'll be just right. - assuming there isn't an icey gale blowing.
Layering is good advice especially when you encounter the unexpected stop whether for a train or a flat tire.
Very similar to Michigan, there is no sun…ever, and its wet. Either sleet, rain, snow.
I also ride in any weather. As a Brazilian livin in Germany it was dificult in the beginning because I was not used to cold and wet weather, but after a while I invested in some warm and water proof clothes and now I do ride every day and in any weather! Even when it is snowing. And I must say I don't change for a cosy warm car stuck in trafic jam!!!
When I see someone commuting by bike even during the "off-season" I respect them immediately! Truly admireable!
I'm 41 and do this literally every day in Switzerland and on top of that I walk every day with my Huskys a 7.5km forest way 300 meters up a hill and down again.
Please respect me! 😁😁😁
Truly ad-miserable!
Full coverage mudguards are 90% of the solution, negating the need for any waterproof gear when it's not actually raining. In winter the roads are wet most of the time but heavy rain in the UK is usually limited to a few hours a week and we tend to get light drizzle if anything in the long gaps between showers.
totally agree…. rain gear just creates its own rainfall inside of your clothes…. I just wear regular clothes and then hang them up to dry if need be…
Except for feet…. wet feet really affect a person psychologically…. booties - overshoes are useless in rain, water comes up thru the cleat hole and over the top…. So i use Shimano winter boots with full coverage gaiters…
@@PRH123 Yeah, I used to try and keep my feet dry with overshoes, but you still get wet feet through the cleat holes and that makes overshoes a worthless combination of "extra effort" AND "still no good"! A full front mudguard that's long enough to stop the spray reaching your feet is the only real answer. It's not what you want on your sexy summer race bike, but for half the year on this soggy island, full guards really do solve the problems that nothing else can....
The waterproof trousers are a gamechanger. I own the same agu-trousers and since I have them I cycle with any weather. What I especially love about them is that the legs can be openend all the way up to the waist, so I even have to take the shoes off, when I need to put them on.
This winter I rode to work almost every day and the best benefit of it: I haven‘t been sick despite literally everyone around me having colds and influenza.
I have an electric bike for my everyday rides. I love it, it allows me to get to my destination way faster, with less effort.
Three more issues, which I think are important as well.
1) When turning a corner in Summer you lean the bike towards the kerb. Thus, the bike is on a angle. In Summer not much of a problem, but in Winter, when the streets are slippery, the bike might slide from underneath you. Thus, I keep the bike straight and lean my upper body into the corner.
2) Change the tires, when the profile gets bare.
3) Due to the weather conditions the rims get wet and the rim brakes don't work as they do under dry conditions.
No, when turning a corner in the winter you lock up your back wheel and skid in the wet for MORE FUN. You've got it backwards.
Some great tips! When riding in winter you do need to adjust your style a little, slow and steady is a good idea 🙌 - We've long been advocates for disc brakes, they really come into their own in winter!
A decade of commuting in Finnish winters, now a decade of commuting in Northern (ish) English winters. The latter is WAY more soggy and muddy. I use a gravel bike and use traffic free paths where possible, but in winter i sometimes stick to the roads and put up with traffic to avoid the endless muddy and gloopy puddles on the canal tow paths and bridleways. Winter SPD boots more important in the UK, because wet feet get cold faster than dry feet in sub zero temperatures, at least down to sensible temps like -10 celcius.
I have another one: batteries.
Batteries are a lot less effective in the cold, so it can be helpful to dim your headlight a bit (but still visible) and keep a Garmin or similar device somewhere where it will be more protected from the cold, like near your body or in your bag.
Depending on the length of your ride and the temperature it can be less of a problem, and they'll get power back in from being in a building away from the cold without actually being plugged in, but it's still something to keep in mind so they don't stop partway through a ride. Headlights might need a recharge just because of two rides in the dark, but the rest should be okay. And unless you have a really bright tail light, they use so much less power that you can pretty much treat them the same as you would in the warmth, maybe a charge a day or two earlier.
Agree all around. 40 years commuting year-round in the states through the snows of western NY and Massachusetts and now Maryland (where "winter" seems more like what's in the video i.e. practically nothing). There is seldom a reason to put bikes up completely for the winter unless, as another commenter pointed out, the snow is deeper than your bottom bracket. Then, it's time to grab XC skis or snowshoes and keep on going.
My rule for my commute is that I'll cycle in any two of it being, wet, windy or icy, but not when it's all three at the same time. Getting some good waterproofs that keep me dry in the heaviest of rain greatly improved the pleasure of the winter commute.
Good rule! A good set of waterproofs is pretty great, you don't need to buy all the kit though - part of the battle is just getting out of the door 🙌
Yeah, as much as I like to commute by bike there are two things I draw the line at, ice and storm force winds. You can say what you like but riding a bike in 70mph winds isn't good and ice = risk.
Just this morning I was on ice and caught a 40mph crosswind that slid my bike right off into a snow bank lol but lucky that I wasn't on the other side of the road and blown into traffic. No more ice riding for me until I get some studded tires mounted.
The conditions featured in this video is what we have in September-October in Central Norway. This year the snow came early, in late November, along with -10 to -15 degrees Celsius, which quickly turned the pavement into an ice skating arena and the car roads not too much better. So even with studded tires, it's dangerous, and in some cases - impassable. The worst is the flaky snow produced by cars when they get out of the driveway. Feels like riding with skinny tires on sand dunes. Studs don't help as the snow is too thick. Deep, frozen tracks from pedestrians and bicycles are a close second: Like riding over small craters in a moon landscape. Try making a video in these conditions, GCN :) !
Try a fatbike?
I reckon, bike care is also more than throwing on some oil every month or so and you need to prep your bike for it work in those conditions. In Austria, I usually get away with normal maintenance and more frequent cleaning and lubrication but last week we had rain followed by cold weather and my shift cable stuck because it froze. That was luckily a one-off, as is snow ... my regular 38 mm street tires do nothing when you have to ride on snow.
Spot on. Cycling in snow, slush and a shovel of salt thrown into the mix (to prevent roads from icing) changes everything.
Here in central canada we've had the exact opposite winter so far. We're still in the balmy single negative digits (C). Everything you've mentioned is the bane of my cycling. Ruts, that slushy car snow, and polished icy roads make it a challenge. Really, riding in any season is doable with the right gear. I do miss summer rides where it doesn't take me 15 minutes to get all my layers on.
Haven't lived in a snowy climate in awhile, but I've biked on the occasional crushed up ice and snow when it comes down here. Throughout school into college in Missoula, MT, US I rode most days regardless of the roads. It was an interesting adventure. Not for everyone, but I had a great time smushing in the snowdrifts. Sometimes I have to get off and walk, but it beats all other modes in the end.
Great, informative promotion of Commuting through winter Si. I commuted to work for several years the best thing for me was a) the "detox" from work stresses on the way home in the dark, and b) not being stressed about speed and performance because I couldn't read my head unit in the dark!😂 much more relaxing ride😉 I now work from home so "have to" ride at lunchtime 😄
For me it is just the 30km I have to ride in the dark which is reduces my motivation too much. From spring till autumn I totally agree with you.
I’m in Edinburgh. I’m almost 30 years into riding to work in winter. Can get Pretty icy up here so I just use an old rigid mountain bike 26x2.1 with mudguards.
Winter running gear tends to be cheaper than cycling. I use a lot of Nike stuff.
Layers and two part jackets are a winner.
Cotton kills.
why not a bike umbrella, those which cover top, sides, hands and legs with plastic it would protect from rain and wind?
@@aihsanasl I've never seen a bike umbrella, but I can tell you that Edinburgh winds will destroy a regular umbrella in seconds flat.
Love this segment Si! I've been commuting by bike for many years. Right now I live a bit outside of rainy Seattle and have just a short commute. I still use the rain pants I bought 30 years ago when I commuted by bike in Denmark. My colleagues think I'm crazy to come by bike in the rain but the fresh air is just the best!
Really well done video. I'm a year round commuter in the Boston, MA area. If you're in an area like New England with melt/refreeze conditions running studded tires is a good idea. If you have a long commute, having a secondary front light on the bike can save you if the primary light fails for whatever reason. Drivers have also told me that my high viz helmet cover is very eye catching since it's generally visible above the roofs of cars.
See my post above from someone from Rhode Island.
High vis helmet covers sound like a great idea - putting the reflective pattern on a moving body part can really help draw attention to yourself. We're lucky to not need studded tyres but would love to give them a try 👀
@@gcn Oh, completely agree on the moving reflective stuff being attention grabbing. And the larger point about assuming drivers don't see you/look through you.
I use 700x28 Schwalbe winter marathon studded tires with reflective sidewalls. They are slow as all get out, but you can ride on water covered ice like you're riding on rails with them. Of course the cars aren't as sure footed in those conditions.
Great advice, especially the one about ride as if you haven’t been seen. That’s something I learned during my motorcycling days, especially going round roundabouts, and carried through to cycling. “Ride as if they can’t see you, and as if they can see you and want to kill you.”
Another winter hack is that I use a snowboarding helmet if the weather is particularly bad. Keeps the ears from freezing, plus no need for a hood on your jacket, which I find annoying especially for the lifesafer check behind before changing direction
I've discovered u need to also drive as if u havnt been seen too
we recommented a service assessment in sept-oct and then again in mar-apr this allows you the peace of mind that before and after the worst of the winter weather your bike does what you want it too
A few years ago, I picked up a rain jacket from Outdoor Research. It's not a cycling jacket, it wasn't crazy expensive, and it totally changed the feel of winter riding. Invest a few dollars and don't hang your bike up just because it starts raining.
As a year round bike commuter in Boston, MA, USA I'm fortunate to have about three additional ways to get around in case the bike commute doesn't work out. Its always good to have a backup plan, even if bike commuting is your primary commuting mode. My favorite part of winter riding is that I have more opportunities to clean my bike off--its definitely cleaner than in the drier months.
In really cold climates one amazing upgrade are ski goggles paired with a buff or scarf or balaclava. They keep snow out of your eyes and ensure that almost none of your face is exposed.
Top tip on the plastic bag inside your backpack. When I was in the military I used to always use a heavy duty black bag that doesn't tear easily, inside my rucksack. Kit never ever got wet
Great report, Si, and you're correct, when you get in the bike commuting groove, it becomes quite routine but it is always a step up in commitment and time and adventure and such. And I look forward to reading comments, but for now, one tip I'd offer is attaching a front and rear light to the top of a helmet with, uh, zip-ties or whatever. I find that for commuting, it is nice to have a light up there to direct on the bars or ground or wherever you need to see, plus a high taillight is good to have, too. And at age 64, I am having a lot of fun with an e-bike conversion kit, a Green Zone Bikes 250w front-hub motor with a thumb throttle and a Samsung battery which I stash in a rear pannier on my Diamondback Sorento which used to be a basic alloy 26" mountain bike. And we know there is absolutely no shame in the commuting game, so run whatever you run and make the most of it. And there is so much to gain from commuting, if only the mental and physical warm-up before work and winding it all down en route home.
I bit the bullet and got an on sale Lumos helmet (other brands of helmets are now putting on integrated lights, too!) and its made a real difference on these winter nights. The throw on the Lumos is much wider than a standard front light and really lights up any reflective spots.
@@notl33t I like your endorsement of that helmet and I probably should do the same. And I will look into it. And I know that lights zip-tied to the top of a helmet is sort of bootleg in the meantime. 😀
You're right, Si! It's never as bad as you think! I live in rainy Vancouver and commute to work about 10kms each way all year. Surprisingly, it's not too often that I get caught in a huge downpour. I look forward to my commutes to and from work, and I wouldn't trade that time for anything. You just need the right clothing. Commute=Priceless!
This video really touched on everything. Especially the "high vis means I'm going to pull drivers attention away from phones and infotainment" mentality has definitely been observed by me over the last 11 or so years, and lights to an extent do the same.
My issue with commuting by bike is winter is just how much I sweat. Once you get the right layers and gloves and mask it's easy. Wind resistance stuff is the best and maybe heated gloves for really cold days. Ohh an some nice wool socks.
Also tern makes lights for the bars for the clubhouse. They are rechargeable as well.
After working outside for over 8 years I became kind of a master of dressing comfortable in winter/rainy conditions, as there is almost nothing as intolerable to me as being cold & wet.
General principles are to always use multiple thin layers. Find out how many layers work for you. With multiple layers you can easily add or remove them as you please to find just the right balance. You don't want to over-layer as you end up getting hot and sweating which just makes you more cold, so you have to find the optimal level of warmth without sweating. I'm very thin so I tend to prefer lots of layers (3 for high 40s-low 50s F, 4 for high 30s low 40s F, and 5 for sub-freezing).
Baselayers on bottom (prefer polypropylene, microfiber, or polyester), merino wool in the middle, and windproof/waterproof shell on top (prefer polyurethane/PU). Insulated shoes & wool socks. Neoprene face mask. For hands use neoprene bar mitts/pogies, never gloves with individual fingers (unless maybe they're neoprene diving gloves). Mittens are better though they're not good for cycling.
I cycled to work for 25 years, 5 days a week 34 miles per day in all weather. My clothes were a good quality Goretex, seam sealed jacket, under it a normal cycling shirt, long sleeved or short depending on temp, a pair of ron hill tracksters, neoprene overshoes, over normal cycling shoes, no overtrowsers at all because i always rode at full speed, creating heat and ron hills were easy to dry over a radiator at work. A motorcycle under helmet balaclava for cold or wet days, particularly in hail or snow, helmet, glasses and insulated neoprene covered gloves for the wet cold days, lighter ones on better days.
I was lucky, i had a hot shower at work, which was the best thing you could have. I carried a full set of light weight, clean clothes, wrapped in several plastic shopping bags inside my back pack, to stop them from getting wet on route, which also contained tools, innertubes and a spare folding tyre as well as my food for the day. I also carried spare spokes, placed inside my handlebars. All punctured innertubes were repaired at work at lunch time. Punctures were replaced with new innertubes on route, taking a max time of 5 minutes or so, through extensive repetative experience, usinf a full size frame fit hand pump ( a must ) I kept shoes at work to change into.
In the winter, even down to minus 20 degrees c on odd occasions, i used to push my bike off our estate, where i lived, if the snow was too thick, then get in the vehicle ruts in the snow and then ride the rest of the way to work. On the windiest day, with the wind, i rode the 17 miles to work in 28 minutes and on the windiest day against me, i recorded my slowest time of 17 miles in 1 hour 20 minutes. Nothing stopped me, ever ! They thought that i was mad at work, i must have been looking back. This is how this northerner cyclist commuted, southern softies need not apply lol.
Epic! 👋🏻👋🏻👋🏻 (from a Southerner Softie!)
Good to see someone else running the two lights system. I do the same as flashing lights are more visible from a dynamic perspective and the solid light allows other road users to gauge your distance, speed and direction. And as for high viz, all my waterproof clothing is black but I wear reflective and flouro yellow body belt, and snappers on my limbs. It's subtler than a bright yellow jersey but still enough to be seen.
Same here - one light under the saddle, the other is integrated into the helmet 😊
I'm a deliveroo rider and use 2 lights on both ends. Some riders however forgo lights altogether!
The two light system is the way to go 🙌 Do you also have reflective banding on your legs? This can be a great way to stay visible 👀
thank you for the explanation of the benefits of flashing vs static lights! I currently have just one rear light but think I'll add a second. I have to go through some ridiculous city junctions and I want to be as clear to other road users as possible
@manoz6194 most delivery riders have no lights, which is absurd, because most of them are riding electric bikes ...
Strong headwinds were the worst (I'm retired now).
But if it is really cold, cover your ears. And use panniers rather than a sweaty and horrible backpack.
I think you cover this very well. In North America and in the north, studded tires are literally life-saving.
As a fairly avid commuter in North Dakota, I couldn’t agree more. Studded tires and real cold weather gear are necessary.
Luckily we don't need to go that far! How slow do studded tyres make you?
From my experience 15 to 20% more effort, depending on conditions, but lifesavingly worth it!@@gcn
4 inch wide fat tires with studs - pretty slow. At a low effort pace I go maybe 16 kph.@@gcn
@@gcn they do slow you a little but surprisingly not by that much. Annoyingly noisy on clear tarmac though. What does slow you down is fresh snow, even relatively small amounts, but studded tyres mean if it's icy but no fresh snow you don't really need to slow down that much because of ice. About 10 years cycle commuting in Helsinki taught me this. Now cycle commuting just south of Sheffield it's the mud on the canal path that slows me down and spoils my winter commute at it's worse.
Currently commuting in 10-15cm deep snow (on "clean" roads), some of it is puffy and loose on top of ice. Using 29" tubeless ice spiker pros with 402 spikes each wheel on a gravel-ish bike with a gearbox and belt drive as a normal derailleur would get jammed up and the chain turns to rust after a single ride due to road salts. Also using a canecreek suspension seatpost to prevent back pain. Cycling on anything less rugged would be miserable.
Is it a drop- or flatbar bike? I would think flat bars would offer more control over icy road (thinking about winter commute after returning from Southern Japan, where there's no winter essentially, back to central/northern Europe with heavy snowfall).
Also, love that you're using belt drive system - they are slightly less efficient, but god is their maintenance (i.e. basically lack of need of one) amazing!
It started as a flat bar gravel bike, but put surly corner bars on it due to wrists preferring the hood/drop position over flat bars, handling is quite similar to flat bars. The (lack of) maintenance is a godsend.. all I need to do before rides is check tyre pressure and occasionally check bolts and clean brake rotors.
@@zipsi thanks! Never heard of those handlebars before - they do look peculiar 🙂
And I'm having serious problems with it - IGH won't shift - at zero or below temps, not happy with my new bike 😢 Some help please?
Commuting in northern germany with an s-pedelec: quiet the same gear as GCN uses. Waterproof pants over the jeans (wind and waterprotection), a thin waterresistant jacket, three different pairs of gloves (mild, cold and freezing temperatures), shoe covers, a fix mounted 150LUX LED-headlight plus a extra-powerful LED-Lenser and…
a pair of Continental top contact winter - works perfectly at all surfaces
It’s easy cycling in Uk during the winter. Mainly is wet and windy. Waterproof trousers cover are brilliant. I’m using Regatta brand , same as a top , cheap and does the job. Mudguards are essential as well , lights also. Thanks really good video :)
20km commute - good on you Si. I'm only 5km one way - but forgot the keys and racked up 15km this morning. In the great white north - salt, slush, ice and snow are the norm for three months. Lights are very important and I never expect shifters to work a month in (been disconnecting front shifter for decades) and rear brakes rarely work for more than month and it's not usual for the brakes to simply not work (praise be Flintstone brakes - issue with global warming and instead of things staying frozen - daytime getting just above freezing to get water into the cables and then it drops to -10C and everything is frozen solid). A used bike typically lasts one winter (pedals, derailleur and freewheel fails, chain worn out and ring(s) likely shot) but can be often make it thru a 2nd winter when the bottom bracket and wheels fail and all cables and housings need to be replaced and pretty well everything is rusted in place (cranks, pedals). It really makes one appreciate getting onto the "summer" bike again. A winter day with a few inches of fresh snow covering everything is an amazingly quiet experience.
way to many words for me to read. sry :D
This is why I typically ride single speed or fixed year round and have indoor storage for my bike. Indoor storage is a huge luxury that means my bike can make it through nearly a decade without too much maintenance.
As I've been bike commuting for over 20 years in Paris, all year long.
You're spot on, about the essentials.
I'm very pleased to see more and more content about commuting in this channel. Way to go, guys!
Shouts to the Berghaus Deluge, been wearing them for 5 years of commuting and they're a bomb proof set of waterproof trousers. I couple them up with a set of gaiters which cover the gap between your shoe and your trousers when the rain is really bad. Brilliant. I never wear cycling kit to commute in the city. I might have to invest in the rubber shoes. My goretex boots can get a bit whiffy over lots of time in the rain. Those rubber shoes look spot on.
Sounds like a great bit of kit! 🔥
Excellent video as always! I commute on a non electric cargo bike all week (8 miles each way) no matter the weather, a tip an old colleague gave me years ago was (this sounds really bad) 'car drivers, treat them all like they are trying to kill you' - to me that tip works all the time, and in winter I pay more attention to it I.e when a car is pulling out look at the front wheels for movement, if you see ice assume that any car going near it is gonna skid on it (and other cyclists for that matter) - even though that probably sounded bad I completely agree with si in saying that ita never as bad as you think it will be, get out there and give it a go!
I'd get a pair of Goretex lined leather oxford work shoes with safety sole over those rubber boots. Can be had for about 15 bucks from the used shoe store, very comfortable for all day use. Rubber safety sole is the ultimate in bike foot comfort and your feet won't slip in the rain.
Another thing I like to use instead of waterproof trousers is a ski bib with built in boot blousings. You don't even need to fit fenders to your bike if you use this, because your entire backside will be waterproof.
Commuting in Denver for last 8 years, and I like your recommendations a lot. Only missing parts for colder than UK winter are face mask and clean glasses (to see in dark) to protect you from chilly wind.
When its below 15 F (-9 C), I've been using ski goggles over a mask and they've been really great.
I’ve commuted by e-bike when it’s down to -30F and windy, it’s all about gear. Normal ski/ winter gear works great, just remember your layers.
Sometimes you need to go with electrically heated mittens/ socks as you can’t layer your hands/feet enough for the really cold and wind/speed.
I cycle at least a few weeks / year at below -30F temperatures, and have never had real problems with by e-bike. Only some sort of warning on the screen about too low temperature or something, but does not seem to affect the functionality of the bike all that much. Personally I never use heated mittens/socks, as those can be problematic if you run out of battery, or they break, or something, especially as I sometimes cycle quite deep in the forests, and such, much rather just layer up, and not take the small risk. I disagree with your comment about not being able to layer hands/feet, personally I just use multiple layers of mittens, outermost of which are wind-proof, and a wind-proof winter boots, with multiple layers of socks, never really had any problems even when it's cold and windy.
I have been cycling in winter for 3 years now, this is a lot of fun, especially in snow)
Using MTB with light mudguards for this purpose, knobby tyres work really well in this conditions. Of course, waterproof and reflective clothing with light are must-have
Additionally, I give a little rinse to my bike after every ride just to get rid of salt from a road and potentially extend the life of components
Belt drive is very nice in winter, much easier to maintain.
And I'm having serious problems with it - IGH won't shift - at zero or below temps, not happy with my new bike 😢
Would you like to see more belt drive content on GCN? We know there are some big fans of it out there 🙌
@@userdjee834 The same here. Since this winter I have a Shimano Alfine 11 and a Gates Belt. Doesn't work well, as soon it's cold. The switch cord is too sensitive to cold weather.
@@userdjee834The factory grease in Alfine hubs is too thick in freezing conditions.
Do an oil bath dip of the internals. Shimano oil is expensive, car auto transmission oil works well.
@@gcn Yes please
I typically don't need as much waterproof stuff in the winter unless it's actively snowing (almost never get winter rain where I live). The two things that are absolutely essential for me: an active base layer (these can get pricy, but I honestly like the cheap reebok one I got from walmart kinda more than I should lol), and WOOL. SOCKS. The rest is commentary. I also keep a reflective sash rolled up and hooked under my saddle, so I always have something incredibly visible on me, just in case.
A neck buff/loop/headover and a sleeveless light insulated jacket are good for fine tuning insulation, esp if you have hills.
A woollen hat should be carried for any off bike emergency.
Good video, well done. Full length 'guards for me, extended with an SKS flap on the front - makes a big difference to keep water off your shoes. I carry all my gear on the bike and I leave shoes etc at work. Hub dynamo , front and rear lights - big investment but worth it over the years. On the occasional day when the Irish wind and rain gets too much I borrow my wife's ebike.
I started to use my bike in winter, last year. Mind you, i'm Montreal Canada. Honestly, it was great. My city is cleaning up the main bikelane network, so, it is easy to do it. The worst weather i biked in was -16 celsius and it wasn't that horrible. Actually, we had the best winter ever in term of bikelane usage. People are starting to adopt this and it's wonderful.
Commuted to work for over 7 years, 20 miles per day, best time of my life, rain, shine, snow, floods loved it all, the right gear always helps
The most difficult part of winter / cold weather riding is that first 200-300 yards / meters. Once you warm up, not overheating is the issue! The benefits? You have the road to yourself, especially if you have access to bike specific trails. I committed to riding all winter season and yes, sometimes it's difficult, but once you get going, you feel like you're riding the Spring Classics or something. Just do it!
I commuted this whole week with -10°C and pretty humid conditions. Well let me tell you that even with good winter gear, you do not overheat, even after 10 or 15 kilometres...
it feels so weird when someone talks about winter when there is no snow. i am just so used to living in the north so there is always snow in winter.
yeah hate to gatekeep but come bike in montreal in winter when it's -20c and tell me if this advice still rings true. there are some days where it is really just not worth the effort - take the bus or something. most of the time it is fine but to say "oh its ok" when you live in bristol is leaves something to be desired
@@team419love not commuted in -20, but I've done 20mile commutes in -10 without a problem. I just wore snowboard gloves and stuck to gritted roads.
I don’t find it weird. I find it cute and adorable. (Musses up the Nigel’s hair).
@@team419 I mean people in Sweden, Norway and Finland also cycle in the winter. Maybe with different things as preparation, but sure why not. But it also depends where you live and how "cycling" is placed in the culture there
@@Vixen1525 one key ingredient is studded tires, and it's often less wet here so warm clothes, but not too warm.
Hi Si, I agree with most of what you say. I will add Manon's recent video on wet and lights (I think) is worth a look.
From my experience as a car driver, when you are driving in the town/city in he dark and possibly rain there are loads of lights (mainly cars etc) and the puny cycle light gets lost in the mass. Sometimes its the shaddow of the rider against car lights which is easier to see. What I mean to say is that crowded streets with lots of lights can make it very easy for the driver to "not see" the rider particularly with the high work load of junctions/roundabouts so Si's warning to take extra care and ride as if you are invissible is really sound advice.
Si, may I ask whether you think it wise to ride with a hood? I tried it once long long ago and found I simply couldn't look behind and even found it impeding in looking sideways (say at junctions). I would always wear a rain hat now (helmet cover for you I suppose) because situational awareness is so important when you're mixing it in the traffic.
As an aside continue commuting by bike in winter is free trainning getting keeping you in shape for next spring.
Some great suggestions thanks. I'm 64 and bike to work every day even in the rain. Agree to having the gear mentioned plus I have a "Rubber Band Bike" AKA Belt drive with internal hub gears! Absolutely great for commuting and no chain or gears to clean and maintain. The gear was expensive but worth it and after more than 5 years of using it, I have saved way more than the cost of the gear, plus I get some exercise and don't have to get stuck in commuter traffic.
Currently living in Michigan, northern USA. My biggest tip to people wanting to ride in winter; take care of your hands, feet, and face and you’ll be fine. Winter commuting is quite pleasant. 18 months ago I invested in a bike with a carbon belt drive and that makes winter riding so much better maintenance wise.
Always a bit weird seeing Bristol on RUclips. I've only just started commuting to work and I'm so surpirsed how good the cycling infrastructure is here, you practically never have to cycle on thr road. This video is good timing!
I always tell people that if they can go skiing (which most do here in Austria), they can also ride their bikes through winter. The main factor for newcomers to understand is the relation between temperature, body-heat production whilst riding and wind-chill. Imho you need a completely different jacket when you're standing/walking in the cold vs. riding. For riding you need less insulation (at least when going along at a somewhat decent clip) and more wind-proof-ness.
Oh and here's my number 1 tip for staying motivated to bike-commute: Don't own a car! :-D
Top tip from me in the UK, is to keep a spare pair of undies/socks in the locker at work! For the times when the downpours are too much for the clothes/bag etc. It's saved me on quite the few occasions!
Definitely! I've got spare socks, undies, trousers, work shirt, and boots in my locker at work! I've also got a box on the back of my bike in which I have another pair of socks, just in case I forget to replace a pair I've actually used!
Panniers! Waterproof panniers!! Carry all the spare clothes you could possibly need.
I commute almost everyday in Berlin and do most things as you do. Here many people have hub dynamos with lighting attached front and rear. You never have to worry about charging anything, and they run forever if the wiring is done well. A hi-viz helmet cover is also a great help. Ride safe!
My Winter Teton riding kit: studded tires, Sorel snow boots, balaclava/neck gaiter, heavy gloves with goretex overmits, ski goggles. Thick insulated pants on legs and jacket on chest, all sealed up in wind pants/ jacket.
Thanks Si for the video. I see a rise of those e-bikes that accommodate two-three kids in here in recent years, specially during the summer. I agree that it is totally possible to have a car free life, I am car free last two years and am loving it. ✌🏾
I'm a year-round commuter in the UK. Nothing too crazy at 12 miles round trip 4 times a week. Best purchase I made was a bike with a carbon belt drive and internal hub gears. Cuts maintenance down massively and such a smooth ride
And I'm having serious problems with it - IGH won't shift - at or below zero.. very unexpected, not happy with my new bike..
@@userdjee834 genuinely sorry to hear that! Which IGH do you have? Mine is a Nexus 8spd with Alfine shifter
Also a Nexus 8, but with the circular shifter, if that's the correct expression@@EwanShawcroft
@@userdjee834 Gripshift then. Worth checking if cable is moving freely and replace if not, as a cheap fix. I haven't gone much below freezing this year, but that's the first report I've seen of your problem. You can dial in the cable tension using the yellow markers in the window on the hub too.
Not all winters are created equal.
Here in Ottawa, Canada, what you lot call ‘winter’ we’d consider ‘spring’. Canadians might want to add a couple of items to your winter essentials list. First up, carbide studded winter bike tires. These really help out when cornering on our ice-covered roads.
Second item would be a $100 ‘winter beater’ bike as our city dumps an average of 185,000 tonnes of rock salt on the streets in an attempt to melt-off the previously referenced ice. This does quite the number on those shiny, expensive metal bits on a bike. Better to ride a junker that can more economically be sacrificed to the elements and the salt.
agreed. Use rigid bikes on studed tyres. Wear face mask. Works till -40 C/F.
Bar Mitts, they're the single best things I've bought for my winter commute in Sweden. Haven't had them for long, but I managed my 11km ride without gloves in -2°C without freezing at all. Don't waste your money on expensive gloves or mittens.
THIS. i tried so many kinds of gloves and never found any that kept my fingers from eventually going numb. finally got a cheap pair of rockbros bar mitts for $20 on ebay, and they were game-changers. hardly ever get frozen hands now.
People either love them or hate them. I hate them :) I'm fine with cross country ski gloves down to -20 C. Depends on the person, my ancestors must have been hot handed :)
Spikes, this is so important for people who are living in icy and snowy regions. I love my spikes aka winter tires. More spikes is in most times better, yes you will lose some over the years because of emergency breaking but you have enough so it is OK. Doesn't apply of course to regions with no icy roads but if you have, that is a game changer for safety. Waterproof pants are also really nice not for getting not wet but to keep freezing cold out.
Puncture resistant tyres are a boon as in Winter the ground is wet and so this wetness lubricates pieces of glass etc through the tyre and into the inner tube. Puncture proof tyres saves a lot of hassle. Always carry at least one spare inner tube if you don't have puncture resistant tyres.
Commuting in the winter is way easier than summer. At least, when you live in Phoenix.
I have wondered about how do people cope with riding in summers like yours. Got any tips?
@@FrostbikerBest tip is to keep riding. As soon as you stop, your drenched in your own sweat!
Same here in Japan. Winter is easy with basic thermal clothing on, but summers with +36 and 80% humidity for 4+ months is outright dangerous.
We occasionally get some days like that in the UK and I find those days pretty rough, just pushing hard on the electrolyte tablets and go as slow as I can to avoid feeling like I'm going to pass out. At least in cold temps you can layer up. Obvs ice/snow is something a bit different.
2 tips I have are full fenders and then extended front mudguards so they almost touch the ground, this keepas road spray from getting onto you and the bike. I also recommend slapping some high reflective tape on the bike itself, rear rack, or rims, that way theres more flexibility and affordable to wear normal clothes, and still visible in the dark.
Honestly, hi-vis overalls and work jacket are just about the best thing to wear. They're made to be durable, overalls go up your back which is advantageous for riding a bike. You can even get hi-vis waders that are big enough for you to wear shoes inside them, keeping your feet dry and your shoes clean.
Throw in some water-resistent winter work gloves for extra points.
If using a flat bar bike a poncho style raincape is almost all you need for wet weather. I used a Carradice waxed cape for years (7-8 mile commute) which kept the whole of me dry and without the boil in the bag effect that can affect waterproofs.
I'm a fan of capes (try clever cape, in Rhode Island). I commuted for ten years in a suit and tie to court with a cape- it (along with fenders) keeps your pants dry, and the ventilation is good. Surprisingly okay in wind, and it works fine on drop bars also.
Thanks, great video. My additional tip that seems obvious is after a wet ride, where your over trousers (pants) are wet and dirty, keep them on and wipe them clean outside with a wet cloth. That way, when you bring them inside to dry, they will be clean again next time.
I agree, I love commuting to work. The sunrises recently have been beautiful
My commuting activity is pulling a tandem trail-a-bike with my two older kids to and from school. We've already chosen to stop cycling for the year, based partially on cold and partially on other commitments of time and energy.
I wanted to extend the season from last year and bought cold and wet weather clothing to help us extend the season of commuting longer this year than last year. The first layer has been a fleece jacket with elastic cuffs that zips up with a collar that can double as a neck and cheek warmer. Then, the second layer is a waterproof and windproof jacket in a bright color; we also have waterproof and windproof pants (aka trousers) in case we are courageous enough to ride in precipitation. We haven't used the pants more than once.
The kids also have gloves and a neck gaiter that can serve as an ear warmer; we've got different helmets to accommodate a bit more space required to wear the neck gaiter as an ear warmer. The gloves are simply required for the kids to endure the cold; I have them wearing the gloves when temperatures drop sub-50 F, and the neck gaiter is needed for sub-40 F. We have not tried riding in sub-freezing weather quite yet, but that was a goal of season extension preparations. We need to give it a try.
Riding to and from school is a fairly comfortable distance of about two and one-half miles. In warmer weather, we might comfortably take longer routes--sometimes as much as nine miles of scenic greenways. Colder weather calls for shorter distances and more direct routes.
I also have gear for myself that allows for layering to mitigate cold and wet weather. I've comfortably ridden in sub-freezing conditions for personal leisure rides. Because I work from home, I haven't ridden to the office in a couple of years, but I sometimes take a route along the greenways through the campus for a nice leisure ride around the lakes and other corporate landscaping.
I did nearly 40 miles a day round trip for 10 years. I only drove when it was storming or below 25 degrees Fahrenheit. It was awesome and it only took me about 20 minutes more to ride rather than drive.
In the UK it can get snappy! I was riding home from work at midnight that last really cold spell. It was dark, freezing and I had the roads virtually to myself, I actually enjoyed it.
This is my first year winter cycling and it really isn't that bad. Yeah there are slog time but you'll get over it.
Man, I never even considered winter would change my behaviour to commuting to work by bike. I just slapped on a coat.
I do love all of the TLC tips though. As someone who just had to replace their drivechain, I'm taking each of these to heart.
+1 to "don't overthink it". I'm fortunate to have mostly dry winters, so just needed to keep warm with some fleece bibs and full gloves. Also invested in some high-vis (love the advice to ride as if I'm not yet seen). Watch out for slick parts on the road, it's easy to fall!
As much as I am conditioned to riding through winter. I still long for summer. My suggestions for riding in winter is eye protection. Shields with interchangeable lenses clear, amber, and dark. put a tail light on your backpack. and as with motorcycles ride as if everyone in a car and truck is out to kill you. I do not think high viz was responsible for the accidents I bet if you dig deeper it was distracted driving. Oh, chemical feet and hand warmers are awesome in the winter.
I love winter commuting. Much less traffic on the bike paths (or multi-use paths) than other times of the year. I have an Outdoor Research Goretex jacket that I wear fall through spring. It's waterproof and windproof, and not as expensive as many Goretex jackets. I bought a size larger than I would otherwise wear so I can layer underneath. I live in Wisconsin where it can get very cold, and I find that the OR jacket combined with different layers works very well. When it's really, really cold (below 10 Fº/-12 Cº), I wear merino wool base layer, flannel shirt, down vest, and a cotton hoodie under the OR shell, hence the larger size. Cycling jackets are often too fitted/snug to allow for that many layers. For my legs in the extreme cold, merino wool base layer, flannel lined jeans, and rain pants/trousers when necessary. Alpaca socks under Goretex hiking boots work well for me. The only issue I have is keeping my hands warm when it's extremely cold. Studded tires are a must for this area. I now have two, but until this winter I rode with just one on the front and that was fine most of the time. Ice is no problem at all with the studs as long as it's fairly smooth and not rutted. Deep snow is a challenge for me, even with the studded tires, but in this city they clear the deep snow from the bike paths pretty quickly after a snowfall, often before they finish plowing the streets. The studded tires slow you down a bit, but I find it makes little difference in the time of my commute. They're also quite noisy, but when I'm wearing my winter helmet, which covers my ears, I hardly notice the noise.
The Tern GSD and other built in tail lights are woefully inadequate so if you have an ebike definately supplement like Si. I like the Cygolite brand, worth the investment. I also fit out my wife's GSD with an LED rope light with a cheap external USB battery around the cargo area to illuminate the kids and for better side profile visibilty.
If bike choice is an option a low maintenance bike is super nice as well (to prevent aforementioned regular maintenance).
- hub gears
- enclosed chain
- drum or rim brakes.
Dutchy here. Fully endorse this video.
As a bicycle commuter myself I agree 👍 with all the tips layed out in this video. I bicycle commute in Medford Oregon in The USA. Great video.
Love it. I have a 12 mile commute along a canal which I nearly have to myself on rainy days. It never gets gritted when it's freezing so I keep a set of studded tyres on an old mtb for those days.
Only 2.9 miles away from work and I have never had the desire to learn to drive. So I cycle (or walk) in the winter . Only racked over around 1200 miles this year and today is my last commute of the year! I store dry kit in my locker as well as spare gloves, socks , buff and skull cap in my locker. But also carry my gore helmet cover with me in case as it is sometimes not easy to get my kit that I am wearing dry in time when I leave work. Carry my change of work clothes with me in my pannier bag too. We don’t have a dry room so I have learnt to adapt as best as I can.
I have started cycling as part of my way to get to work after getting off the train at Euston station and cycling 8 1/2 miles to my place of work I am doing this on a electrically assisted cube touring pro Bike a question that I’d like to say it’s not that bad but one of the things that I have realised about it it’s the nearest thing I can get To to feel how it is for the pros going uphill at 15 1/2 miles an hour 😁👍 great video Simon thank you
Fantastic tips, I also would recommend a neck scarf.
Postion it over the ears as I find in the winter, when cycling my ears burn but when they are covered by a little neck scarf they are perfect
agree with all the points. I didn't see mention of those of us with slightly poorer vision. A set of cheap bifocal reader safety glasses go a long way in keeping eyes protected from rain, reading navigation on phones/head units, and providing vision to the occasional requirement to read without sacrificing very expensive progressive prescription to road grit from car spray. Might consider if you're like me and need a little help reading.
when snow covers your bottom bracket, wax your XC skis and remember to milk the cows.
Studded tires are a must if icy conditions are expected. I would advise against riding in snow deeper than a couple of inches, due to the diffficullty with steering. Fortunately, due to snow clearing in urban/suburban areas, this problem seldom arises during commuting hours. Mountaineering garb is the way to deal with deep cold.
I have to be honest. If the commute is just 10-15 minutes by bike then winter is not as bad as you think. If it is more than 40 minutes, it is in my experience, always worse than I remember it or think 😆
Great video; you seem to have hit all the most important points. (I'm not sure why you don't like the way bikes ride with mudguards, though; I can hardly tell the difference...)
The only thing I would add is this obvious thought about tires: if you ride a lot in winter, lightweight racing tires are problematic. You'll get a lot of punctures and you'll probably destroy them within a couple of months. Switching to slightly more robust tires in winter is definitely worth considering.
Is there winter in England 😄😉? I invite you to Western Germany, I live where the National Park, the Eifel begins. Up to minus 15 degrees and ice and snow have become less in the past years, but it's still snowing every now and then. Also, when it rains and it's stormy, it gets ice cold. I bought a Onesie Rainsuit, which I find more comfy because nothing can move up so that rain finds it way in. When it's getting colder there will be salt on the streets, way too much and to early, it's become a crazy precaution-issue here. So this adds another level of caring for my beloved bike.
Living in Plymouth where the rain is so aggressive waterproofs are so essential! I absolutely love cycling in all seasons and feel accomplished especially when it's tearing it down!
Front and rear lights are essential but work best when going with the flow of traffic, adding spoke/valve cap lights, ideally in an unusual colour, are a good addition for urban riding as they make you stand out side on (where you'd usually blend in with other traffic) and the colour being 'wrong' means drivers/pedestrians take longer to assess what they're seeing increasing the likelihood of being noticed, helps reduce corner cutting at junctions as well
It is easy in mild, continental climate as in most parts of Europe or the UK, then all you need is a bike, gloves and some sort of rain cover, not necessarily enthusias-level cycling-specific kit. But only if the conditions are mild - iff you are riding in snow/ice/slush, you might even need studded tires or you're on the ground on the first bend, below -5°C any kind of gloves isn't good enough on longer rides and also bike prep and maintenance gets complicated. In extreme conditions, your shift cables might freeze and if your bike gets covered in ice and slush and mud every day, drivetrain care will become a thing if you don't want to wear our your components quick.
This is the beauty of commuting by velomobile. No need for waterproofs, gloves, and warm clothes. I can ride in a t shirt until at least the freezing point when I switch to long sleeves. Most of the winter I don’t even need gloves. After about 3-4 minutes of pedaling I’m all warmed up. I think my velomobile gets warm before a car heater would even kick in. And bonus, I get there faster than most bikes would get you there, so I’m out in the cold for less time.
i cycle daily, rain, sun, snow or heat wave. weather doesnt make it less fun! not having the correct gear does! if people want a one bike solution all year round, then a gravel bike fits this! can fit 28mm tyres or 47mm.. so ice and snow arent an issue. im lucky enough to have both a gravel and a road bike, an di have to say, there's very little difference in the 2! my hour long commute is about 8 minutes slower in a gravel bike. barely noticeable!
The worse the weather the more enjoyable it becomes, the worst is the fine drizzle. But mega rain storms , bring it on.
The ass saver mid guard is great for road bikes, just a small bit of plastic that tucks under the seat but works well.
love commuting: don't care about the weather, as the big yin said "There is no such thing as bad weather , just bad clothing" most conditions in the UK are ridable with the correct kit and I give my bike a clean and oil every 2 weeks through winter. I also use my commute for all my zone 2 riding for the week.
I cycled back from work in the pissing rain today........loved it.