Well... You I know love ya Elisabeth, but I have to disagree about bowsaws being more efficient in cutting big logs, the katanaboy 500/650 blaze through much bigger logs than a bow saw MUCH faster. The tapered design of silky saws mean that the impulse hardened teeth that are RAZOR sharp are also slightly thicker than the spine of the saw, this means that there is no binding. The blades dont need to be sharpened even after hundreds of uses due to the patented impulse hardening of the SK4 steel. The gap is a downside to the saws curvature which is there in order to make the saw cut faster, I've never heard of anyone cutting themselves like that. The katanaboys have a locking feature keeping them closed, I agree this is one area where it may be improved. Comparing the long more vigorous strokes of an extended bowsaw to little light strokes (and ineffective technique) of a bigboy 2000 is not a fair comparison. Silky advises NOT to push down on the blade and let the saw do the work, saving energy. A valid comparison would have a person do it many times to gauge the dulling of the blades. If its ergonomics you are after than you will want a pistol grip fixed blade like the Zubat, sugoi or Sugowaza. However the pistol grip is not conducive to horizontal cutting and falling trees (something bowsaws are very awkward at)The short of it is yes bowsaws are easier to sharpen because they will need to be sharpened, I've never had to sharpen a silky saw in my years. Anyways thats my rant lol, I still think you're awesome but this is an area I'm quite passionate about.
Its ok we dont have to agree on everything :) I have used the bigboy both with and without pressure. Still I was much slower than with the bowsaw. yes maybe with a longer sawblade like the katanaboy has, it would have been better in competition than the bigboy 2000. still I believe that bow saws cut more efficent because of their thin blades. also I agree with you that the blade will stay sharp for a long time, however there is no steel on this planet which will stay sharp forever, sooner or later the blade will get dull. I prefer bow saws, you prefer folding saws and that is OK! Have a good one!
Canadian Prepper this is where I have to agree with you. I believe Lilly is using the technique of the inferior saws on the Silky saw . Cutting with the silky saws are almost effortless . I only use 2 fingers and my thumb . I can also cut with the silky when I am exhausted.
she said the bowsaws cut more efficiently because the sawblades are thinner, so you have to remove less wood in the same cut comparatively thus saving yourself some energy sharpness of the blade aside(because we can just assume perfect conditions with the sharpest possible blade in a hypothetical scenario) the only thing you have to worry about when sawing wood is how wide the cut is and how big the teeth are (larger teeth allow you to gather more material behind it so every single tooth will cut longer before it starts skipping (because the material removed cant go anywhere any more)
chosena91 by that logic a piece of paper should cut the log fastest. It's not about thickness, it's about razor sharp teeth. A company thats been making saws for 100 years obviously is able to weight the trade off between thickness/friction and cutting power, thickness of the saw is so minutely more than bowsaw that it is negligible imho and a moot point. If you've ever seen the teeth of a silky and compared it to a bowsaw there is a HUGE difference in the sophistication of the design and the actual sharpness due to impulse hardening (Google it) and a taper to allow hard teeth (that almost never need sharpening) and a flexible spine to prevent breakage. The advantages over primitive bow saw tech are so numerous I find it hard to understand how someone can claim a bowsaw is better outside of traditionalist sentiment there are so many functional disadvantages I'm baffled by how it's preferred by The few that do. Most gear reviewers concur about the superiority of silky saws, but its good to have some critical feedback to keep the tech improving.
chosena91 Also tooth size or teeth per inch as it's referred is ideally different for diff wood. Hardwoods benefit from more TPI, soft and Greenwood need bigger teeth. The silky are designed to excavate wood from the cut on the push and pull but only cut on pull to prevent binding. I'm telling you man it's like comparing a rifle to a bow... The silky being the rifle ;)
When I was ten years old some forty plus years ago I was taught how to use a bow saw. That was the go to until ten years ago. Then I stumbled across Japanese pull saws. They are now my go to and that includes my carpentry gear. For myself, as the aches and pains start to catch up it's the pull that makes life easier.
Opposite for me. Tendinitis issues in my wrist and elbow make pull saws miserable to use for any length of time. They work well for pruning, but for firewood the bow saw has been much better.
Thank you for your very thorough review. My main appreciation is that you included everyday usage, and their ergonomic application. Others have also commented on the wrist tension with the two Silky saws which verifies the comparison to my abilities. Thank you for the detailed explanations. Love your channel.
Hi.LillyGreat vid.Using a pull saw goes against thousands of years of sawing.It takes alot of learning,not too push.once aperson masters the pull method it is a great method and very fast.Faster than most.The trick is not to cut flat.Get your wood up in the air so youare cutting up and down,takes the pressure off the wrist.For the average user you are 100% right.Next do not drop the blade on your handit hurts like hell and the teeth make big holes and a lot of blood.
I was thinking about her getting the wood higher up, as I was watching those wrist angles... (yeah, recent Silky 240 purchaser; was hoping it would be a leader in the timed test because of that :P ) Can anybody show me a good set-up? If say, I don't have an ideally placed rock or tree stump to do the work higher off the ground? Maybe just construct a 90-second sawhorse somehow??
It all depends on what you're going to use them for. The Silky is awesome for pruning because it can get into tight spaces and odd angles, but for processing firewood like she is demonstrating the Agawa's ergonomics are far superior.
I've had the exact Silky you tested for over a year now. Yes you do have to be careful when closing, it is super sharp so being careless around it is not a good idea. The blade has two positions, one for cutting wood close to the ground, works well. I keep mine in a leather pouch, really the pouch is made for carrying welding rods, but works well. One last thing, I learned, let the saw do the work, don't try to force it, you will find you will cut just as well without tiring yourself out.
1:56 Hi Lilly. The real advantage of the pull style saws is they use far less calories per stroke than the push style. The reason is that the push stroke requires two things - downward pressure and forward force. The pull style, however, requires only backward pull. The teeth of the pull saw are so designed that they bite into the wood on the pull stroke and tend to dig in downwards, so you need apply no (or very little) downward pressure at all. Just let the saw do the work and keep the pulls going. Remember, it's not speed of cutting that is most important, but expenditure of calories. The forward stroke of the pull saw only serves to clean the sawdust out of the groove. Another advantage is that pull saws never get stuck, like bow saws tend to do (rather irritatingly!). The reason is that most of them (the better ones certainly) are thicker at the teeth and thinner at the top (much like a flat ground knife blade, but upside down!). Silky saws are also very useful for cutting selected limbs for a bundle (like hazel) without damaging the rest, where a bow saw wouldn't be able to get in. Lastly, as one doesn't really need a long blade even for quite thick logs, Silky saws tend to be shorter than equivalent bow saws, less bulky, and don't have that pesky blade to somehow store and carry safely. All in all, the folding pull style saw is generally much more user-friendly and easier to use, while still being able to do some pretty hefty cutting jobs. Thanks for another enjoyable video.
Different tools for different uses. The pull saws work great for pruning, like doing trail maintenance. The bow saws are much better at processing downed wood, like when you're camping, because the wrist position is more ergonomic. If you've ever had repetitive use injuries in your wrist or elbow, this is a big deal. I love my Agawa, as you can see in the video it folds up very nicely, though it is still long.
@@plmn93 Hi there. Please explain how the wrist position with a bow saw is better than say a Silky for "downed wood" - I assume you mean wood close to the ground or lying flat? With a bow saw your forearm is usually parallel to the saw blade. If this wood is 6 inches off the ground or so, then your arm also has to be the same height and parallel to the ground. That is hardly ergonomic. Besides Silky saws have a second setting so that the blade tilts further to accommodate this making it far easier to use than a bow saw for that application. Anyway, it seems that one merely has to lift the wood to be cut to a different position that is higher up and at a convenient height for sawing. I have nothing against using bow saws, but I think they are less convenient both for carrying and for using in the field, for both wet and dry wood.
@@dennisleighton2812 By downed wood I mean dead wood that is on the ground, as cutting live or dead upright trees is generally not allowed when camping. But I don't necessarily mean cutting it on the ground. I usually bring it back to camp to process it there, sometimes cutting off what I can carry first. With a bow saw your wrist is straight, which is more ergonomic, putting less stress on your wrist and forearm.
You never mentioned about changing the grip angle on the Silky saw. It has two positions on thr handle to accommodate your cutting when the wood you are cutting is close to the ground...gives you a better angle and handle clearance.
I bought a 20$ pruning saw replacement blade at Lee Valley 7TPI. 14.25 inches long blade . I cut a tang for the handle , carved a maple handle, pinned it with copper wire , made a red cedar sheath . handle is at the same angle as a bow saw. it took a little work but i got exactly what i wanted & i can resharpen it when required. 9 years and counting on the real world testing & i still love it. Jared
Hi Lilly, thanks for the video. It's quite helpful because i have the silky big boy 2000 and have exactly the same problem you showed. The one hand grip is not good at all. However when i can hold the saw with 2 hands , like on a tree branch , it cuts like a laser, but that's not really possible when cutting firewood for bushcraft. I'll have a look at the boreal bowsaw you showed. Thanks :) Have a nice day.
Thanks for the useful video Lilly. I think you're correct about the angle of the hand being better for the bow saw. I never thought of that before so I'm glad I watched your video.
You do fine and thoughtful product reviews: pros and cons are concisely presented, usability is in sharp focus. Nothing is given a 'thumbs down; rather you explain the best way to use the product, should a buyer prefer a certain style. I had a 25-year-old saw, much like your father's: it brought back memories to see you use it! I moved on to a saw very much like the Boreal model you tested: we did a lot of backpacking and the folding-but-still-connected architecture of the saw made it most efficient to assemble and to take down. The big bow saw 'wobbled' from side to side because my small hands (for a man) found the large size hard to control.
There's something else at play besides blade thickness because to me it seems a folding saw like the Silky cuts faster and more efficiently/easier than a bow saw even though it has a thicker blade. I think it has to do with the bow saw's thinner blade constantly twisting, turning and binding into the wood.
Sorry, but I've cut wood my whole life, with every kind of saw imaginable, and bow saws DO twist and bind, no matter how much tension. Take your bow saw, set it on top of a piece of wood and apply downward pressure. The blade will not remain vertical, it will twist/turn to one side, and this is what happens when you're going all out trying to saw through a log. Also, the fact that a person can't perfectly saw (perfectly straight, back and forth, no variance in pressure, force or direction, etc.), along with the fact that it cuts on the push which greatly contributes to binding/twisting, compounds the problem. With a Silky type saw, the blade is thicker and taller which makes it more resistant to twisting, and it takes no pressure for the saw to work properly. Add the fact that it cuts on the pull instead of the push and this virtually eliminates binding.
Apparently we have a language problem here. I know what you mean, but I dont call it twisting. The blade of a bow saw shifts a little bit to the side yes, but that does not interfere with the cutting efficiency when you apply straight pressure on it. also bow saw blade cut mainly when pushed but they also cut when they get pulled. so it is not true what you say about the binding. btw you can bend a folding saw, I have bend the bahco saw you saw in the video and I have ripped of a silky pocketboy at the tip because i bend it over. also when you go to Canadian Preppers channel and look at his saw cutting videos you can see that the long katanaboy saws bend like hell.
For me, the shifting of the bow saw blade does interfere with the cutting efficiency. When it shifts side to side as you cut it is rubbing on the wood and creating friction and resistance. As you say the bow saw MAINLY cuts while being pushed. This exacerbates the shifting and extra friction. I know you can bend a folding saw lengthwise (I have broke hundreds of saw blades on dozens of different types of saws), BUT it is way more resistant to bends vertically because of its thickness and height. Add to that that it only cuts on the pull and you get way less friction/resistance than when using a bow saw. Yes, you can break a Silky saw blade IF you bend it too far, but that is operator error, not a fault of the saw itself. Most of the people that complain about a Silky breaking were using it wrong and applying too much force while pushing, etc. And of course the Katanaboy saw will bend more than smaller saws because it's extremely long. But, it's not the same kind of bending that I'm referring to. That is bending lengthwise which doesn't matter because the saw cuts on the pull. I'm talking about vertical shifting while cutting, which is what a bow saw does. And if you had a bow saw with a blade as long as the Katanaboy, how much would it bend and twist? It would be unusable, which proves my point about the bow saw. I don't know what you're doing to make it easier/more efficient to use a bow saw, but for ME, the bow saw is less efficient and slower than a Silky saw.
@@adamaj74 yawn. North of 40yrs being involved in the outdoors 3 of which was living completely off grid(survival wasn't a hobby for me) tells me you blame the tool for your improper technique. Those 40yrs+ are trail maintenance, the time I lived off grid and truly relied on my tools, getting massive amounts of firewood for the colder seasons, etc. If the blade on the bow saw is twisting it is due to improper tension or user technique. Both of which falls into the user's wheelhouse. The thing with pullsaws is you cannot negate fatigue. When that sets in things happen such as binding the blade on a Silky on a return stroke.
using any sharp tool be it knife, axe or saw requires that you observe proper placement of your body in conjunction with the tool that your using at that time, happy, safe an healthy holidays lily.
I have a Wyoming saw I use when hunting, it is small compact and has two blades, one for cutting wood and one for butchering. It is not the best saw for cutting fair size firewood but It serves a dual purpose which is better that taking two saws. When I take this saw with me, it is because I am hunting moose. I have bow saws at the cabin and on these ones you are absolutely right. If you are stationary somewhere they are by far the easiest and efficient saws. Cheapest as well, blades are easy to find and replace. The silky big boy that I have tried is a great saw, as safe as any others. I am not a big fan of folding saws to start with but it worked great. Hitting your leg with the BB is no different than hitting your leg with a bow or any other saw. The key here in using tools in the bush is to have good, safe working habits. Take your time, figure out what you want to accomplish and take the proper steps to do it in a safe manner regardless of time pressure. My point being I don't have a favourite saw. I used the best one for the activities I am doing at the time. That being said if you asked me "If you could have only one saw which one would you take"? I would probably take the Big Boy. Because of the sharp blade, the fact it takes very little room in a pack. Not great for butchering as the teeth are very close together and bone dust, meat and fat get stock in there and you have to clean the blade constantly. But overall I believe it is the most versatile.
I got the Tajima Folding Saw and my buddy got the Silky with the same size. They are both exactly the same when it comes to cutting branches but the Tajima only costs a third of the price. So I got the felling Silky is a little bit overrated.
Wow you are the only other person that I've seen that actually uses his/her brain to buy saws. Yes Tajima is better. Silky is overrated by far but thats what the youtube saw "experts" want ya'll to believe in anyway.
Hey lilly,i fixed that safety problem with the folding saws by using a large thick rubber band around mine wile closed and not in use so it wont open up when not wanted ect.
Magical man you can also cut Ranger bands as wide as you like, if you make it wider than you need, you can always cut narrower bands off of it if you need them.
Hi Lilly. In my experience saw preferences have a lot to do with you past experience. I grew up using bow saws both single and larger two person. You are always more efficient with tools you are used to. 20 years ago I started using pull saws when building a boat it took me quite some time to get used to the different grip angle and body mechanics but I now prefer them for general carpentry and fine cuts. However in the bush I still gravitate to the bow saw even though I have both Silky and Bacho. If someone has no past experience I can see how preferences would vary. On an unrelated topic what is this Hoodie that you are wearing in this video and several others. Looks like a nice mid layer jacket.
Excellent video analysis. I have a smaller folding saw which is nice for small diameter limbs. Your analysis has helped me decide on the bow saw for more hefty logs. Thanks a million.
Thank you for a very informative video, Lilly. You have taken time to study these tools and their advantages and disadvantages and safety. You have pointed out some things I always had at the back of my mind when using each type of saw, I have them all, but never really thought about it. Well done, you are right on.
Lilly ,I have followed you from the beginning and have enjoyed all your videos. I've also sent most of your videos to my daughter who grew up in the woods with her daddy . I mildly disagree with you on the saw issue. Silky saws are God's gift to the woods people. Still love you and your work and determination .
I think one reason for the ergonomic difficulties you were having is maybe because a bow saw is designed to cut wood that's lying flat like you were doing in this video, but a Silky saw is designed to cut limbs off trees which are still attached to the tree or to cut entire trees which are still standing.
I've used bow, fixed and folding saws and prefer the fixed blade saw, particularly the Silky Zubat. For Bushcraft, and /or lightweight travel the Zubat is fantastic. I couldn't justify the higher priced Silky saws like the Sugowaza when held up against the performance of the Zubat. Silky folding saws are amazing from a design, build and functional perspective, but when you get to the Bigboy and larger versions the issue of portability becomes moot. Ideally various saws serve multiple purposes and scenarios.
Such clear video. I haven't yet seen a video that really makes me want a Silky. If I wanted to cut bigger stuff, I'd want a bow saw with blades I can buy at local Hardware store. And the smaller Silky looks a bit delicate, and too easy to mistakenly put a bend or break in the blade?
I see value in both types of saws. There are a million different uses for a saw. Hell, I have at least 8 different hammers. Each is meant to bluntly strike an object. But, is that object a nail? A piece of tin I'm trying to shape (probably poorly, lol)? Is it a cinder block I'm trying to demolish or maybe a wooden dowel I'm setting into a piece of furniture? Point being, each of the variations are designed to gain the appropriate leverage and precision for a specific task. A Ferrari is a great car, unless you're trying to traverse a sand dune. I liked this video because it points out some of the strengths and limitations of the various varieties of saws on the market. Lilly did a great job of covering the pros and cons, and the viewer can decide which tool would best suit their needs. Thank you for your videos and best wishes for 2018.
Thank you Lilley for this video everyone out in the prepping/ bushcraft say that silky is the best thing since sliced bread but seeing you test them really sorts this argument out thank you
I own both the Laplander and the silky bb 2000. The Bahco with the fine saw teeth are great for the small stuff like smaller tree branches and kindling for starting a fire whereas the silky big boys larger and more aggressive teeth will hang up on smaller branches but will make short work of the larger cutting chores and will keep your fire burning bright. Thanks for sharing your thoughts on this.
I love LOVE the BAHCO bow saw you had shown in some of your older videos. I purchased 2 different blades, one for green and the other I guess for other. WOW it really does a nice job. Thanks from Atlanta Ga USA.
Very good video I use both types of saws and the bow saw is easier to cut logs if you need to process more wood at a base camp or winter camping. I use a little folding saw for my normal overnight trips Merry Christmas and God Bless.
Packable bow saws are my first choice. They are much more efficient and comfortable to work. Blades are cheap to replace in bow saws, and the saw frame takes a beating.
The Silky is a pruning saw. You reach above your head, a cut while using gravity. Your wrist is also at the correct angle for pruning. Thanks for showing the superiority of the bow saw for firewood.
Silky seems only work well if you can hold it with two hands, which is fine under certain circumstances, but not always. Thinking about dealing with blowdowns on the trail I feel that I’ll always need one hand to hold those wiggly branches I’m cutting through.
ATT: Anybody but mostly Lilly. IMPULSE HARDENED TEETH can be sharpened, use diamonds ( because diamonds are a man's best friend too ) you mentioned that you sharpen your own saws ... don't be limited to softer steels if you like a blade just get it and when it gets dull fix it with a diamond sharpener mine is 2.5'' X 3/4'' X .005''. Metric ? about 1 MM thick. it was meant for fish hook sharpening...i modified it by filing the back at a fine angle maybe 35 degrees so it will fit between the teeth down to the bottom , or close to. works like a charm. when i was younger they didn't make ergonomic portable saws to my taste so ... buy a replacement blade and make a wooden handle & sheath. you may need to weld a tang on for the handle. i wouldn't trade mine for any other. my larger one looks very much like a Silky SUGOI 360mm that Canadian Prepper does a demo on .my smaller one 7'' long blade- similar wooden handle . I think plastic is cheep , ugly And feels like your hand got puked on by an oil drum. i like wood ! so make your own from wood. but if you cant make things like me than use the... Silky SUGOI 360mm or similar, & a Corona folding saw 7 inch go for 7 TPI. it's nice to sharpen, more teeth is not so fun . I hope this helps Jared
Thank you for all your hard work and keeping us entertained throughout the last years. Stay tuned and have a Merry Christmas Lilly, best wishes, Marcus
A really handy tip I was given after the bow saw blade jumped onto my branch holding hand lacerating it badly was this. When starting a cut , particularly a large diameter branch, place the thumb of your branch holding hand lightly on the back of the blade. If the saw catches on the bark etc, it cannot jump onto your hand. Love your videos, keep up your good work xxx
So I find that small cuts are my number one injury in the bush followed byburns. And almost always occurs when I am tired. What injuries do you find are most common in your adventures? And what kind of medical items do you carry? Thanks for what you're doing. Love from NorCal.
The Boreal 21 is my Favorit saw best used with the Cross saw Blade l also use the Silke 240 also Top. the two Go together a treet, no need för a extra saw l notice you was usein the Silke wrong it only cuts on the pull and you was jumping on the pull ( little practice)
I didn't expect to enjoy this video, but to my surprise I found it very interesting and made me look at saws in a whole new way. So thanks for that, Lily!
Great video! I'm going to get a Boreal 21 after watching this. Also, I have been thinking about folding saws and the pulling cut, and I think it has to do with their intended use for arborists. If you are working over your head or at the extent of your reach, you will have much more pulling strength than pushing.
I can't believe you're anti-silky saw. I have the Gomboy and Katana and I'll never consider a different saw again. You seem to not be using it most efficiency. It's a pull only as you stated you were aware of, and very little downward pressure is needed. Knife through hot butter.
I wouldn't consider a silly saw to be that good. You guys are being ridiculous to believe a thick blade will cut more efficiently. I'll stick with my boreal.
@ Definitely not a troll. Just a guy that doesn't buy into hype. Silkies are great, but for the price point I'd much rather carry a bahco and a bucksaw. That huge silky is just a miss to me. Too big to be worth carrying as a folding saw. I would however love to carry one if i was doing forestry management as opposed to "bushcraft" or whatever you want to call it. I'm not saying they are not good saws because they certainly are, but that doesn't mean everyone has to buy into the idea that its the only saw that works lol. To me its a tablet. Lots of people love tablets, but to me it makes no sense as I can do most of that stuff with my phone (bahco) and when i need more than it can offer I just use a computer (buck or bow saw). It is almost entirely dependent on the use case. I mean if you are going to fell a tree, all of these saws are crap. I might go for a gomboy soon though, seems to be about the right size IMO. That bigboy and katana I just wouldn't even want to carry.
5 лет назад+1
@@abcxyz9643 my comment was aimed solely at "get bent". I own a few silky saws. I've found the gomboy 240 with medium teeth to be about the best all round saw for getting out in the woods. Though most people go for the large teeth variant. If you have never used a silky start out slow and concentrate on not applying downwards pressure on the push stroke. Even going slow it will still cut faster than the bahco. I have never used the any of the folders larger that the gomboy 270. In my opinion if you need a larger saw than 270 go with a fixed blade. They would be lighter, stronger and more ergonomic. Maybe the big folders would be a good choice for the truck or boat? Also there are cheaper Japanese pullsaws on the market, that i have heard good things about, though i have never used one. 🍻
@ I agree entirely. Thanks for sharing your opinion and advice on the gomboy. I will probably look into getting one soon, bahco just doesn't die. I could see maybe keeping a large folder in a vehicle, but even then I still think I agree with you that fixed blade is the way to go unless your vehicle is limited on space. Honestly though I might go with something like the Boreal21 collapsible buck saw for something like that, or even a home made takedown version of a bucksaw.
I have the Bahco Laplander folding saw and the Bob Dustrude buck saw. Both have served me well for quite a while. If you remember that there is a different tool for different jobs, then all the saws you showed are capable of doing a good job for their intended use. Have a great holiday Lilly.
Regarding silky fold saw, your problem with the gap between the saw and handle, is just because you normally don't wear gloves, which is quite common in your videos.
You get tired faster if you saw wood with pushing movement than pulling. The pushing movement is gonna use your tricep and shoulders which are small muscles compared to pulling whereas you’re using your back.
You are definitely on the right track. Your opinions on the different types of saws and their uses are spot on. I totally agree that the Agawa Canyon BOREAL21 saw is the best choice for BOBs and many other applications, however, Silke (folding saws) have their applications too. Like everything in the world, Practice Makes Perfect PMP. After reading some of the other comments I'd like to remind people that your suggestions for safety are directed to beginners, people who are new to the usage, transportation, and storage of these tools and not so much long-toothed old-time bush crafters with years, maybe decades of experience. Keep up the great work Lilly. Skól (Love the big old-timer red bow saw, (possibly a Swede Saw?), it really is awesome. My Dad had one the same colour, called it a Swede Saw, and we never sharpened it either, even still, I agree HaHa they cut like hell)
+Survival Lilly Excellent, fair review and demonstrations. I think that one valuable point you made was to consider the mission - the work that the saw is intended for. Small saws for small work, bigger saws for bigger work. In the hunting and shooting communities, we say "bring enough gun." The same would seem to be appropriate when considering a wood-cutting tool: "bring enough saw." Cheers.
Take more lessons on cutting with the last saw. The cutting stand and grip can use more work. You can cut yourself with any saw if you are not paying attention. Every saw has it's purpose, you have to use common sense.
It would be great to see you compare different roll-up "survival" saws, like cable saws, riveted teeth saws and hand chain saws, and compare those to a small folding saw like the Barco or Silky PocketBoy.
I have a large Bahco bow saw, as well as a Bahco Laplander folding saw for the light stuff. I’ve never really messed with the breakdown saws as they usually look to be very uncomfortable for extended use, but that Boreal actually looks pretty nice. Thanks Lilly!
I got a bow saw I bought at harbor freight for 6 bucks witch works pretty good, plus it comes with an extra blade that you can use to carry on your pack and build the bow out of branches
Lilly, that tepee is going mouldy, you need to light some fires to dry it out. The silky takes some getting used to, you are using it wrong...you should try the silky katana series they cut amazingly well, but you still need to understand and practice with them to get to the most use out of them.
Some interesting and useful real world observations by the way. Oh and always let the tool do the work. You are very smart. You are only it's spirit guide.
Never used Silky so i just ordered one to see whats this hype. I hope i dont waste my money like i did with that bahco laplander (i think it more like carpentry saw). I have used other brand japanese impulse hardened pull saws, Shogun. They are excellent but i just dont see the difference to good old quality bow saw. I used to cut lot of my firewood with bow saw until i got lazy and switched to chainsaw :)
Good information. I am shopping for a camp saw. I usually use bow saws. Was considering the big Silky saw. But, you are the second person to show the flaws in its design. I like the smaller Silky saw though. I do use a Bahco folding saw when metal detecting to remove roots that get in the way.
Well it's a good thing we are all different, and that there are saws for all of us :). I personally love the folding saws, both because of their size, and by the way they cut wood (because of the way their teeth are positioned). I haven't got the money to buy a silky so I bought a cheap one 3 years ago (at Biltema in Sweden) and it STILL cuts wood like a chainsaw. Keep up the good work, and happy new year.
Lily, I think that orange/red old bow saw might be a 30" Bacho similar to the updated Bacho Ergo bow saw. It, and very similar models, are quite common here in Sweden. I would suggest that you sand of the frame and then repaint it, It should then be good for years to come. My current favourite saw is a DIY 21/24" version, actually made two in different sizes, of the Ray Mears folding buck saw for larger cutting tasks and a Bacho Laplander for smaller tasks. Probably going to buy a Japanese ~330mm pull saw in the future. Been using pull saws in carpentry and have been liking them.
I agree, the orange/red saw looks like the older versions of Bacho or Sandvik saws from Sweden. Growing up we had them in several sizes and the smaller ones could be brought out backpacking while the larger ones lived in the carpentry shed or wood shed. I simply attached the saw to the outside of the backpack. This was when the packs with external frames were used.
I just bought a Japanese pull saw called the samurai itchy ban . Wranglestar reccomended it . The grip is much more vertical on the handle deffinatly helps . Feels great. appreciate the tips gonna have to try that boreal out . Looks cool .
The EKA combi is the best folding saw I have used for outdoors. Light, portable and effective. Silky are a 'gimmick'. For smaller work I use either a Bahcho Laplander or Opinel number 13 saw. Either are perfectlly adequate at camp or on day hikes and are very portable. The only people who need a 30 inch bow saw and 3ft felling axe are a professional woodman.
Even then I wouldn't take more than a 21" combi-saw and a hunters axe of about 20" in length. I have a Swedish Hults classic hunters axe of that size with a 2lb head and it and the saw are capable of some serious wood processing at camp. I am mainly a day hike man with the occasional overnight. for about 3lb in carry weight I could 'drop' and process 20-30ft trees with this in under an hour. What more do you need?
The Silky saws cut only on the pull stroke, best not to push on the forward stroke. Also there is a second position that changes the angle which makes cutting alot easier deprnding on the wood bring cut.
Nice review. I might mention that it is possible to get different types of blades for both bow and folding saws. If you are working up firewood, consider a "dry wood" blade. They are far more efficient than the green wood blades you are using, Also, as you say, there is the advantage for folding saws, and some bow saws, because when backpacking or canoe/kayak tripping they can be very quick and easy to fold and stow away.
I have a nice bowsaw I got from the flea market for free. I was buying a scroll saw and I sweetened the deal by asking if I could have the saw thrown in. Turns out it is a really nice swedish bowsaw! My plan is to build a roycroft pack frame to carry it easier because I don't care how inconvenient they are, bowsaws are THE king. Fastest cutting, easy to sharpen, and spare blades take up virtually no space in your pack.
Good video Lilly. I also tend to use my bow saws more just for the fact they hold a more ergonomic position. Even though they may take a little longer to cut, if you are cutting a lot of logs, your wrists will appreciate it more at the end of the day. With that said I also am a big fan of the silkys when I am heading out for a night of two and my cutting demands are less.
Well... You I know love ya Elisabeth, but I have to disagree about bowsaws being more efficient in cutting big logs, the katanaboy 500/650 blaze through much bigger logs than a bow saw MUCH faster. The tapered design of silky saws mean that the impulse hardened teeth that are RAZOR sharp are also slightly thicker than the spine of the saw, this means that there is no binding. The blades dont need to be sharpened even after hundreds of uses due to the patented impulse hardening of the SK4 steel. The gap is a downside to the saws curvature which is there in order to make the saw cut faster, I've never heard of anyone cutting themselves like that. The katanaboys have a locking feature keeping them closed, I agree this is one area where it may be improved. Comparing the long more vigorous strokes of an extended bowsaw to little light strokes (and ineffective technique) of a bigboy 2000 is not a fair comparison. Silky advises NOT to push down on the blade and let the saw do the work, saving energy. A valid comparison would have a person do it many times to gauge the dulling of the blades. If its ergonomics you are after than you will want a pistol grip fixed blade like the Zubat, sugoi or Sugowaza. However the pistol grip is not conducive to horizontal cutting and falling trees (something bowsaws are very awkward at)The short of it is yes bowsaws are easier to sharpen because they will need to be sharpened, I've never had to sharpen a silky saw in my years. Anyways thats my rant lol, I still think you're awesome but this is an area I'm quite passionate about.
Its ok we dont have to agree on everything :) I have used the bigboy both with and without pressure. Still I was much slower than with the bowsaw. yes maybe with a longer sawblade like the katanaboy has, it would have been better in competition than the bigboy 2000. still I believe that bow saws cut more efficent because of their thin blades. also I agree with you that the blade will stay sharp for a long time, however there is no steel on this planet which will stay sharp forever, sooner or later the blade will get dull. I prefer bow saws, you prefer folding saws and that is OK! Have a good one!
Canadian Prepper this is where I have to agree with you. I believe Lilly is using the technique of the inferior saws on the Silky saw . Cutting with the silky saws are almost effortless . I only use 2 fingers and my thumb . I can also cut with the silky when I am exhausted.
she said the bowsaws cut more efficiently because the sawblades are thinner, so you have to remove less wood in the same cut comparatively thus saving yourself some energy
sharpness of the blade aside(because we can just assume perfect conditions with the sharpest possible blade in a hypothetical scenario) the only thing you have to worry about when sawing wood is how wide the cut is and how big the teeth are (larger teeth allow you to gather more material behind it so every single tooth will cut longer before it starts skipping (because the material removed cant go anywhere any more)
chosena91 by that logic a piece of paper should cut the log fastest. It's not about thickness, it's about razor sharp teeth. A company thats been making saws for 100 years obviously is able to weight the trade off between thickness/friction and cutting power, thickness of the saw is so minutely more than bowsaw that it is negligible imho and a moot point. If you've ever seen the teeth of a silky and compared it to a bowsaw there is a HUGE difference in the sophistication of the design and the actual sharpness due to impulse hardening (Google it) and a taper to allow hard teeth (that almost never need sharpening) and a flexible spine to prevent breakage. The advantages over primitive bow saw tech are so numerous I find it hard to understand how someone can claim a bowsaw is better outside of traditionalist sentiment there are so many functional disadvantages I'm baffled by how it's preferred by The few that do. Most gear reviewers concur about the superiority of silky saws, but its good to have some critical feedback to keep the tech improving.
chosena91 Also tooth size or teeth per inch as it's referred is ideally different for diff wood. Hardwoods benefit from more TPI, soft and Greenwood need bigger teeth. The silky are designed to excavate wood from the cut on the push and pull but only cut on pull to prevent binding. I'm telling you man it's like comparing a rifle to a bow... The silky being the rifle ;)
When I was ten years old some forty plus years ago I was taught how to use a bow saw. That was the go to until ten years ago. Then I stumbled across Japanese pull saws. They are now my go to and that includes my carpentry gear. For myself, as the aches and pains start to catch up it's the pull that makes life easier.
Same for me for woodworking, but for rip cuts, I much prefer a tenon saw I modified the hell out of lol
Opposite for me. Tendinitis issues in my wrist and elbow make pull saws miserable to use for any length of time. They work well for pruning, but for firewood the bow saw has been much better.
Lilly, I dont see any adds on this one...just a heads up, I really hope its not because of the saws!
I just got an add on it. Maybe I dont get adds on every click? Thanks for tuning in! Lilly
nvrmind, they are there now...maybe I was too early.
What can viewers do to help with the current You Tube situation?
if you want to help us watch the advertisement till the end and maybe click on it. Thanks for your support!
Joe Robinet what is up
Thank you for your very thorough review. My main appreciation is that you included everyday usage, and their ergonomic application. Others have also commented on the wrist tension with the two Silky saws which verifies the comparison to my abilities. Thank you for the detailed explanations. Love your channel.
Hi.LillyGreat vid.Using a pull saw goes against thousands of years of sawing.It takes alot of learning,not too push.once aperson masters the pull method it is a great method and very fast.Faster than most.The trick is not to cut flat.Get your wood up in the air so youare cutting up and down,takes the pressure off the wrist.For the average user you are 100% right.Next do not drop the blade on your handit hurts like hell and the teeth make big holes and a lot of blood.
I was thinking about her getting the wood higher up, as I was watching those wrist angles... (yeah, recent Silky 240 purchaser; was hoping it would be a leader in the timed test because of that :P )
Can anybody show me a good set-up? If say, I don't have an ideally placed rock or tree stump to do the work higher off the ground? Maybe just construct a 90-second sawhorse somehow??
Silky saws are awesome... I've been through so many saws, the Silky Bigboy is the winner by far...
Silky GomBoy is another great saw.
j'ai ces deux model mais je veut juste une seule en plus la katanaboy 500 mais pas plus grande on fait déjà beaucoup avec ses scies
It all depends on what you're going to use them for. The Silky is awesome for pruning because it can get into tight spaces and odd angles, but for processing firewood like she is demonstrating the Agawa's ergonomics are far superior.
I've had the exact Silky you tested for over a year now. Yes you do have to be careful when closing, it is super sharp so being careless around it is not a good idea. The blade has two positions, one for cutting wood close to the ground, works well. I keep mine in a leather pouch, really the pouch is made for carrying welding rods, but works well. One last thing, I learned, let the saw do the work, don't try to force it, you will find you will cut just as well without tiring yourself out.
1:56 Hi Lilly. The real advantage of the pull style saws is they use far less calories per stroke than the push style. The reason is that the push stroke requires two things - downward pressure and forward force. The pull style, however, requires only backward pull. The teeth of the pull saw are so designed that they bite into the wood on the pull stroke and tend to dig in downwards, so you need apply no (or very little) downward pressure at all. Just let the saw do the work and keep the pulls going. Remember, it's not speed of cutting that is most important, but expenditure of calories. The forward stroke of the pull saw only serves to clean the sawdust out of the groove.
Another advantage is that pull saws never get stuck, like bow saws tend to do (rather irritatingly!). The reason is that most of them (the better ones certainly) are thicker at the teeth and thinner at the top (much like a flat ground knife blade, but upside down!).
Silky saws are also very useful for cutting selected limbs for a bundle (like hazel) without damaging the rest, where a bow saw wouldn't be able to get in.
Lastly, as one doesn't really need a long blade even for quite thick logs, Silky saws tend to be shorter than equivalent bow saws, less bulky, and don't have that pesky blade to somehow store and carry safely.
All in all, the folding pull style saw is generally much more user-friendly and easier to use, while still being able to do some pretty hefty cutting jobs.
Thanks for another enjoyable video.
Different tools for different uses. The pull saws work great for pruning, like doing trail maintenance. The bow saws are much better at processing downed wood, like when you're camping, because the wrist position is more ergonomic. If you've ever had repetitive use injuries in your wrist or elbow, this is a big deal. I love my Agawa, as you can see in the video it folds up very nicely, though it is still long.
@@plmn93 Hi there.
Please explain how the wrist position with a bow saw is better than say a Silky for "downed wood" - I assume you mean wood close to the ground or lying flat?
With a bow saw your forearm is usually parallel to the saw blade. If this wood is 6 inches off the ground or so, then your arm also has to be the same height and parallel to the ground. That is hardly ergonomic. Besides Silky saws have a second setting so that the blade tilts further to accommodate this making it far easier to use than a bow saw for that application. Anyway, it seems that one merely has to lift the wood to be cut to a different position that is higher up and at a convenient height for sawing.
I have nothing against using bow saws, but I think they are less convenient both for carrying and for using in the field, for both wet and dry wood.
@@dennisleighton2812 By downed wood I mean dead wood that is on the ground, as cutting live or dead upright trees is generally not allowed when camping. But I don't necessarily mean cutting it on the ground. I usually bring it back to camp to process it there, sometimes cutting off what I can carry first. With a bow saw your wrist is straight, which is more ergonomic, putting less stress on your wrist and forearm.
You never mentioned about changing the grip angle on the Silky saw. It has two positions on thr handle to accommodate your cutting when the wood you are cutting is close to the ground...gives you a better angle and handle clearance.
Dad's saw: "25 years old, stable, built my entire camp with it, never sharpened it, still cuts like hell"... lol.
I bought a 20$ pruning saw replacement blade at Lee Valley 7TPI. 14.25 inches long blade . I cut a tang for the handle , carved a maple handle, pinned it with copper wire , made a red cedar sheath . handle is at the same angle as a bow saw. it took a little work but i got exactly what i wanted & i can resharpen it when required.
9 years and counting on the real world testing & i still love it. Jared
Hi Lilly, thanks for the video. It's quite helpful because i have the silky big boy 2000 and have exactly the same problem you showed. The one hand grip is not good at all. However when i can hold the saw with 2 hands , like on a tree branch , it cuts like a laser, but that's not really possible when cutting firewood for bushcraft. I'll have a look at the boreal bowsaw you showed. Thanks :) Have a nice day.
Thanks for the useful video Lilly. I think you're correct about the angle of the hand being better for the bow saw. I never thought of that before so I'm glad I watched your video.
You do fine and thoughtful product reviews: pros and cons are concisely presented, usability is in sharp focus. Nothing is given a 'thumbs down; rather you explain the best way to use the product, should a buyer prefer a certain style. I had a 25-year-old saw, much like your father's: it brought back memories to see you use it! I moved on to a saw very much like the Boreal model you tested: we did a lot of backpacking and the folding-but-still-connected architecture of the saw made it most efficient to assemble and to take down. The big bow saw 'wobbled' from side to side because my small hands (for a man) found the large size hard to control.
There's something else at play besides blade thickness because to me it seems a folding saw like the Silky cuts faster and more efficiently/easier than a bow saw even though it has a thicker blade. I think it has to do with the bow saw's thinner blade constantly twisting, turning and binding into the wood.
sorry but the thinner blade doesnt twist when there is appropriate tension on it.
Sorry, but I've cut wood my whole life, with every kind of saw imaginable, and bow saws DO twist and bind, no matter how much tension. Take your bow saw, set it on top of a piece of wood and apply downward pressure. The blade will not remain vertical, it will twist/turn to one side, and this is what happens when you're going all out trying to saw through a log. Also, the fact that a person can't perfectly saw (perfectly straight, back and forth, no variance in pressure, force or direction, etc.), along with the fact that it cuts on the push which greatly contributes to binding/twisting, compounds the problem. With a Silky type saw, the blade is thicker and taller which makes it more resistant to twisting, and it takes no pressure for the saw to work properly. Add the fact that it cuts on the pull instead of the push and this virtually eliminates binding.
Apparently we have a language problem here. I know what you mean, but I dont call it twisting. The blade of a bow saw shifts a little bit to the side yes, but that does not interfere with the cutting efficiency when you apply straight pressure on it. also bow saw blade cut mainly when pushed but they also cut when they get pulled. so it is not true what you say about the binding. btw you can bend a folding saw, I have bend the bahco saw you saw in the video and I have ripped of a silky pocketboy at the tip because i bend it over. also when you go to Canadian Preppers channel and look at his saw cutting videos you can see that the long katanaboy saws bend like hell.
For me, the shifting of the bow saw blade does interfere with the cutting efficiency. When it shifts side to side as you cut it is rubbing on the wood and creating friction and resistance. As you say the bow saw MAINLY cuts while being pushed. This exacerbates the shifting and extra friction. I know you can bend a folding saw lengthwise (I have broke hundreds of saw blades on dozens of different types of saws), BUT it is way more resistant to bends vertically because of its thickness and height. Add to that that it only cuts on the pull and you get way less friction/resistance than when using a bow saw. Yes, you can break a Silky saw blade IF you bend it too far, but that is operator error, not a fault of the saw itself. Most of the people that complain about a Silky breaking were using it wrong and applying too much force while pushing, etc. And of course the Katanaboy saw will bend more than smaller saws because it's extremely long. But, it's not the same kind of bending that I'm referring to. That is bending lengthwise which doesn't matter because the saw cuts on the pull. I'm talking about vertical shifting while cutting, which is what a bow saw does. And if you had a bow saw with a blade as long as the Katanaboy, how much would it bend and twist? It would be unusable, which proves my point about the bow saw. I don't know what you're doing to make it easier/more efficient to use a bow saw, but for ME, the bow saw is less efficient and slower than a Silky saw.
@@adamaj74 yawn. North of 40yrs being involved in the outdoors 3 of which was living completely off grid(survival wasn't a hobby for me) tells me you blame the tool for your improper technique.
Those 40yrs+ are trail maintenance, the time I lived off grid and truly relied on my tools, getting massive amounts of firewood for the colder seasons, etc.
If the blade on the bow saw is twisting it is due to improper tension or user technique.
Both of which falls into the user's wheelhouse.
The thing with pullsaws is you cannot negate fatigue. When that sets in things happen such as binding the blade on a Silky on a return stroke.
Reading the comments.....I never thought people could get so worked up over what kinda of saw is best in their opinion.
using any sharp tool be it knife, axe or saw requires that you observe proper placement of your body in conjunction with the tool that your using at that time, happy, safe an healthy holidays lily.
I have a Wyoming saw I use when hunting, it is small compact and has two blades, one for cutting wood and one for butchering. It is not the best saw for cutting fair size firewood but It serves a dual purpose which is better that taking two saws. When I take this saw with me, it is because I am hunting moose. I have bow saws at the cabin and on these ones you are absolutely right. If you are stationary somewhere they are by far the easiest and efficient saws. Cheapest as well, blades are easy to find and replace. The silky big boy that I have tried is a great saw, as safe as any others. I am not a big fan of folding saws to start with but it worked great. Hitting your leg with the BB is no different than hitting your leg with a bow or any other saw. The key here in using tools in the bush is to have good, safe working habits. Take your time, figure out what you want to accomplish and take the proper steps to do it in a safe manner regardless of time pressure. My point being I don't have a favourite saw. I used the best one for the activities I am doing at the time. That being said if you asked me "If you could have only one saw which one would you take"? I would probably take the Big Boy. Because of the sharp blade, the fact it takes very little room in a pack. Not great for butchering as the teeth are very close together and bone dust, meat and fat get stock in there and you have to clean the blade constantly. But overall I believe it is the most versatile.
silky is the best...please use it right...
I got the Tajima Folding Saw and my buddy got the Silky with the same size. They are both exactly the same when it comes to cutting branches but the Tajima only costs a third of the price. So I got the felling Silky is a little bit overrated.
Wow you are the only other person that I've seen that actually uses his/her brain to buy saws. Yes Tajima is better. Silky is overrated by far but thats what the youtube saw "experts" want ya'll to believe in anyway.
@@1stcSOLDIER as opposed to anonymous troll?
Tajima has flat saws good for carpentry and making log cabins.
Hey lilly,i fixed that safety problem with the folding saws by using a large thick rubber band around mine wile closed and not in use so it wont open up when not wanted ect.
good solution
Magical man try a piece of bicycle inner tube, seems to last longer than rubber bands. Bands cut from inner tubes are often known as Ranger bands.
Magical man you can also cut Ranger bands as wide as you like, if you make it wider than you need, you can always cut narrower bands off of it if you need them.
..or buy a better saw like the Boreal. An even better solution, no?
Well,i did that since i had already bought a new saw and didnt want to waste more money. its simple and it works fine.
How about Borel 24 verses Borel 21 ?Which one do you prefer ? Thanks for the great review .
Hi Lilly. In my experience saw preferences have a lot to do with you past experience. I grew up using bow saws both single and larger two person. You are always more efficient with tools you are used to. 20 years ago I started using pull saws when building a boat it took me quite some time to get used to the different grip angle and body mechanics but I now prefer them for general carpentry and fine cuts. However in the bush I still gravitate to the bow saw even though I have both Silky and Bacho. If someone has no past experience I can see how preferences would vary. On an unrelated topic what is this Hoodie that you are wearing in this video and several others. Looks like a nice mid layer jacket.
Excellent video analysis. I have a smaller folding saw which is nice for small diameter limbs. Your analysis has helped me decide on the bow saw for more hefty logs. Thanks a million.
Thank you for a very informative video, Lilly. You have taken time to study these tools and their advantages and disadvantages and safety. You have pointed out some things I always had at the back of my mind when using each type of saw, I have them all, but never really thought about it. Well done, you are right on.
Lilly ,I have followed you from the beginning and have enjoyed all your videos. I've also sent most of your videos to my daughter who grew up in the woods with her daddy . I mildly disagree with you on the saw issue. Silky saws are God's gift to the woods people. Still love you and your work and determination .
I think one reason for the ergonomic difficulties you were having is maybe because a bow saw is designed to cut wood that's lying flat like you were doing in this video, but a Silky saw is designed to cut limbs off trees which are still attached to the tree or to cut entire trees which are still standing.
I've used bow, fixed and folding saws and prefer the fixed blade saw, particularly the Silky Zubat. For Bushcraft, and /or lightweight travel the Zubat is fantastic. I couldn't justify the higher priced Silky saws like the Sugowaza when held up against the performance of the Zubat. Silky folding saws are amazing from a design, build and functional perspective, but when you get to the Bigboy and larger versions the issue of portability becomes moot. Ideally various saws serve multiple purposes and scenarios.
Such clear video. I haven't yet seen a video that really makes me want a Silky. If I wanted to cut bigger stuff, I'd want a bow saw with blades I can buy at local Hardware store. And the smaller Silky looks a bit delicate, and too easy to mistakenly put a bend or break in the blade?
Lilly is your opion still the same now after your visit with Canadian prepper who loves silky saws?
I see value in both types of saws. There are a million different uses for a saw. Hell, I have at least 8 different hammers. Each is meant to bluntly strike an object. But, is that object a nail? A piece of tin I'm trying to shape (probably poorly, lol)? Is it a cinder block I'm trying to demolish or maybe a wooden dowel I'm setting into a piece of furniture? Point being, each of the variations are designed to gain the appropriate leverage and precision for a specific task. A Ferrari is a great car, unless you're trying to traverse a sand dune. I liked this video because it points out some of the strengths and limitations of the various varieties of saws on the market. Lilly did a great job of covering the pros and cons, and the viewer can decide which tool would best suit their needs. Thank you for your videos and best wishes for 2018.
Regardless of the style of saw you use, it is always good practice to keep anything you don't want to cut out of the path of the blade.
interesting how you mention there is more strength pushing vs pulling. Is it because you feel more strength exerted when pushing?
5:44 wrap the handle with leather or rubber tape (Self-amalgamating tape is a non-tacky silicone-rubber tape).
Thank you Lilley for this video everyone out in the prepping/ bushcraft say that silky is the best thing since sliced bread but seeing you test them really sorts this argument out thank you
I own both the Laplander and the silky bb 2000. The Bahco with the fine saw teeth are great for the small stuff like smaller tree branches and kindling for starting a fire whereas the silky big boys larger and more aggressive teeth will hang up on smaller branches but will make short work of the larger cutting chores and will keep your fire burning bright. Thanks for sharing your thoughts on this.
in my pack i carry a good set of branch pruners for small stuff they are amazingly easy and good for clearing small branches from over grown trails.
Loved this review Lily. Very practical and common sense approach for your reviews! Hope you have a wonderful 2021!
I love LOVE the BAHCO bow saw you had shown in some of your older videos. I purchased 2 different blades, one for green and the other I guess for other. WOW it really does a nice job. Thanks from Atlanta Ga USA.
Hi Lilly, the saw at@7:09 with the green handle. In which manner does the blade come off for replacement? Thanks in advance!
Very good video I use both types of saws and the bow saw is easier to cut logs if you need to process more wood at a base camp or winter camping. I use a little folding saw for my normal overnight trips Merry Christmas and God Bless.
I totally agree with Canadian prepper on this when it comes to silky saws there is no comparison I just gave away all my other saws
Good, you made someone money and got ripped off. I know a sales pitch when I hear one. Hook, line and sinker. Bravo moron.
Laugh my ass off. You were seen coming bruh :D
The saw with the green handle: would you recommend their 21” or 24” version? Why? Thanks
Packable bow saws are my first choice. They are much more efficient and comfortable to work. Blades are cheap to replace in bow saws, and the saw frame takes a beating.
The Silky is a pruning saw. You reach above your head, a cut while using gravity. Your wrist is also at the correct angle for pruning. Thanks for showing the superiority of the bow saw for firewood.
Yep. Different saws for different uses. They each have their place. I use the bow saw for camping and the pull saw for trail maintenance.
It all boils down to, "how big you are & how strong are you." for me it's the silky Big Boy 2000.
Silky seems only work well if you can hold it with two hands, which is fine under certain circumstances, but not always. Thinking about dealing with blowdowns on the trail I feel that I’ll always need one hand to hold those wiggly branches I’m cutting through.
ATT: Anybody but mostly Lilly. IMPULSE HARDENED TEETH can be sharpened, use diamonds ( because diamonds are a man's best friend too ) you mentioned that you sharpen your own saws ... don't be limited to softer steels if you like a blade just get it and when it gets dull fix it with a diamond sharpener mine is 2.5'' X 3/4'' X .005''. Metric ? about 1 MM thick. it was meant for fish hook sharpening...i modified it by filing the back at a fine angle maybe 35 degrees so it will fit between the teeth down to the bottom , or close to. works like a charm. when i was younger they didn't make ergonomic portable saws to my taste so ... buy a replacement blade and make a wooden handle & sheath. you may need to weld a tang on for the handle. i wouldn't trade mine for any other. my larger one looks very much like a Silky SUGOI 360mm that Canadian Prepper does a demo on .my smaller one 7'' long blade- similar wooden handle .
I think plastic is cheep , ugly And feels like your hand got puked on by an oil drum. i like wood ! so make your own from wood.
but if you cant make things like me than use the... Silky SUGOI 360mm or similar, & a Corona folding saw 7 inch go for 7 TPI. it's nice to sharpen, more teeth is not so fun .
I hope this helps Jared
Very informative video. Thanks you
Thank you for all your hard work and keeping us entertained throughout the last years. Stay tuned and have a Merry Christmas Lilly, best wishes, Marcus
A really handy tip I was given after the bow saw blade jumped onto my branch holding hand lacerating it badly was this. When starting a cut , particularly a large diameter branch, place the thumb of your branch holding hand lightly on the back of the blade. If the saw catches on the bark etc, it cannot jump onto your hand. Love your videos, keep up your good work xxx
Thank you. This is exactly what I needed. I have a folding saw currently I'm using in my videos.
So I find that small cuts are my number one injury in the bush followed byburns. And almost always occurs when I am tired. What injuries do you find are most common in your adventures? And what kind of medical items do you carry? Thanks for what you're doing. Love from NorCal.
I got a Sawvivor years ago, out of business now. Collapisble bow saw 13" blade, 10 oz, $30. Pretty awesome. Thanks Lilly, Merry Christmas!
The Boreal 21 is my Favorit saw best used with the Cross saw Blade l also use the Silke 240 also Top. the two Go together a treet, no need för a extra saw l notice you was usein the Silke wrong it only cuts on the pull and you was jumping on the pull ( little practice)
I'm glad you made the point about hand position and wrist strain! Tools should help, not hurt!
That wrist-angle point is very compelling. Great video, Lilly.
I didn't expect to enjoy this video, but to my surprise I found it very interesting and made me look at saws in a whole new way. So thanks for that, Lily!
Merry Christmas and Happy New year. My wife and I love your videos. They are very informative.
Any person has their own unique way of using those kinds of saws
Is there a bow saw made in such a way that you can mount the blade sideways so you can cut lengthwise of the log?
The cool thing about the bow saws is that you can Carry different exchangeable blades with you
Great video! I'm going to get a Boreal 21 after watching this. Also, I have been thinking about folding saws and the pulling cut, and I think it has to do with their intended use for arborists. If you are working over your head or at the extent of your reach, you will have much more pulling strength than pushing.
Just get the 24. Its only a few $ more. You can always cut a bigger log with a bigger saw but can't always cut a bigger log with a smaller saw.
@@rivercitymetaldetecting9854 What's 3" anyway, right? Hehe
@@cleansermacaroni9892 lol. So many places this could go.
Must resist.... m u s t resist. :)
@@rivercitymetaldetecting9854 lolol
Great vids , as always Lilly. Just a tip I use a ranger band or thick rubber band to keep my Silky saw from opening in my pack.
Bahco folding saw model is for household garden use olny and do make band saws as well,that can cut dry timber planks.
Have you tried a Sven saw?
Best position I've found for safety, ergonomics, and speed with a Silky / folding saw is a plumber's vice.
I can't believe you're anti-silky saw. I have the Gomboy and Katana and I'll never consider a different saw again.
You seem to not be using it most efficiency. It's a pull only as you stated you were aware of, and very little downward pressure is needed. Knife through hot butter.
I wouldn't consider a silly saw to be that good. You guys are being ridiculous to believe a thick blade will cut more efficiently. I'll stick with my boreal.
@@1stcSOLDIER lol you are a troll.
@ Definitely not a troll. Just a guy that doesn't buy into hype. Silkies are great, but for the price point I'd much rather carry a bahco and a bucksaw. That huge silky is just a miss to me. Too big to be worth carrying as a folding saw. I would however love to carry one if i was doing forestry management as opposed to "bushcraft" or whatever you want to call it. I'm not saying they are not good saws because they certainly are, but that doesn't mean everyone has to buy into the idea that its the only saw that works lol. To me its a tablet. Lots of people love tablets, but to me it makes no sense as I can do most of that stuff with my phone (bahco) and when i need more than it can offer I just use a computer (buck or bow saw). It is almost entirely dependent on the use case. I mean if you are going to fell a tree, all of these saws are crap.
I might go for a gomboy soon though, seems to be about the right size IMO. That bigboy and katana I just wouldn't even want to carry.
@@abcxyz9643 my comment was aimed solely at "get bent".
I own a few silky saws. I've found the gomboy 240 with medium teeth to be about the best all round saw for getting out in the woods. Though most people go for the large teeth variant.
If you have never used a silky start out slow and concentrate on not applying downwards pressure on the push stroke. Even going slow it will still cut faster than the bahco.
I have never used the any of the folders larger that the gomboy 270. In my opinion if you need a larger saw than 270 go with a fixed blade. They would be lighter, stronger and more ergonomic.
Maybe the big folders would be a good choice for the truck or boat?
Also there are cheaper Japanese pullsaws on the market, that i have heard good things about, though i have never used one. 🍻
@ I agree entirely. Thanks for sharing your opinion and advice on the gomboy. I will probably look into getting one soon, bahco just doesn't die. I could see maybe keeping a large folder in a vehicle, but even then I still think I agree with you that fixed blade is the way to go unless your vehicle is limited on space. Honestly though I might go with something like the Boreal21 collapsible buck saw for something like that, or even a home made takedown version of a bucksaw.
Great video. It explained so much I was wanting to understand about these saws.
I have the Bahco Laplander folding saw and the Bob Dustrude buck saw. Both have served me well for quite a while. If you remember that there is a different tool for different jobs, then all the saws you showed are capable of doing a good job for their intended use. Have a great holiday Lilly.
Regarding silky fold saw, your problem with the gap between the saw and handle, is just because you normally don't wear gloves, which is quite common in your videos.
or they could just make a handle which doesnt have a gap. safety first
You get tired faster if you saw wood with pushing movement than pulling.
The pushing movement is gonna use your tricep and shoulders which are small muscles compared to pulling whereas you’re using your back.
And...to keep the Silky closed, I just throw a ranger band around it.
But you shouldn't need to do that with such an expensive saw.
You are definitely on the right track. Your opinions on the different types of saws and their uses are spot on. I totally agree that the Agawa Canyon BOREAL21 saw is the best choice for BOBs and many other applications, however, Silke (folding saws) have their applications too. Like everything in the world, Practice Makes Perfect PMP. After reading some of the other comments I'd like to remind people that your suggestions for safety are directed to beginners, people who are new to the usage, transportation, and storage of these tools and not so much long-toothed old-time bush crafters with years, maybe decades of experience. Keep up the great work Lilly. Skól
(Love the big old-timer red bow saw, (possibly a Swede Saw?), it really is awesome. My Dad had one the same colour, called it a Swede Saw, and we never sharpened it either, even still, I agree HaHa they cut like hell)
Really a good review and points I'd not think of.. good job
+Survival Lilly Excellent, fair review and demonstrations. I think that one valuable point you made was to consider the mission - the work that the saw is intended for. Small saws for small work, bigger saws for bigger work. In the hunting and shooting communities, we say "bring enough gun." The same would seem to be appropriate when considering a wood-cutting tool: "bring enough saw." Cheers.
Take more lessons on cutting with the last saw. The cutting stand and grip can use more work. You can cut yourself with any saw if you are not paying attention. Every saw has it's purpose, you have to use common sense.
It would be great to see you compare different roll-up "survival" saws, like cable saws, riveted teeth saws and hand chain saws, and compare those to a small folding saw like the Barco or Silky PocketBoy.
I like the B21 and thanks you made me think about things I did not think of before.
I have a large Bahco bow saw, as well as a Bahco Laplander folding saw for the light stuff. I’ve never really messed with the breakdown saws as they usually look to be very uncomfortable for extended use, but that Boreal actually looks pretty nice. Thanks Lilly!
Can you adjust the tension on the bow saws that fold
I got a bow saw I bought at harbor freight for 6 bucks witch works pretty good, plus it comes with an extra blade that you can use to carry on your pack and build the bow out of branches
Lilly, that tepee is going mouldy, you need to light some fires to dry it out.
The silky takes some getting used to, you are using it wrong...you should try the silky katana series they cut amazingly well, but you still need to understand and practice with them to get to the most use out of them.
Some interesting and useful real world observations by the way. Oh and always let the tool do the work. You are very smart. You are only it's spirit guide.
Never used Silky so i just ordered one to see whats this hype. I hope i dont waste my money like i did with that bahco laplander (i think it more like carpentry saw). I have used other brand japanese impulse hardened pull saws, Shogun. They are excellent but i just dont see the difference to good old quality bow saw. I used to cut lot of my firewood with bow saw until i got lazy and switched to chainsaw :)
So.. was it worth it?
Good information. I am shopping for a camp saw. I usually use bow saws. Was considering the big Silky saw. But, you are the second person to show the flaws in its design. I like the smaller Silky saw though. I do use a Bahco folding saw when metal detecting to remove roots that get in the way.
Well it's a good thing we are all different, and that there are saws for all of us :). I personally love the folding saws, both because of their size, and by the way they cut wood (because of the way their teeth are positioned). I haven't got the money to buy a silky so I bought a cheap one 3 years ago (at Biltema in Sweden) and it STILL cuts wood like a chainsaw. Keep up the good work, and happy new year.
Lily, I think that orange/red old bow saw might be a 30" Bacho similar to the updated Bacho Ergo bow saw. It, and very similar models, are quite common here in Sweden. I would suggest that you sand of the frame and then repaint it, It should then be good for years to come. My current favourite saw is a DIY 21/24" version, actually made two in different sizes, of the Ray Mears folding buck saw for larger cutting tasks and a Bacho Laplander for smaller tasks. Probably going to buy a Japanese ~330mm pull saw in the future. Been using pull saws in carpentry and have been liking them.
I agree, the orange/red saw looks like the older versions of Bacho or Sandvik saws from Sweden. Growing up we had them in several sizes and the smaller ones could be brought out backpacking while the larger ones lived in the carpentry shed or wood shed. I simply attached the saw to the outside of the backpack. This was when the packs with external frames were used.
Very nice topic and full of good advice! Thanks Lilly 😬
I just bought a Japanese pull saw called the samurai itchy ban . Wranglestar reccomended it . The grip is much more vertical on the handle deffinatly helps . Feels great. appreciate the tips gonna have to try that boreal out . Looks cool .
Merry Christmas Lilly and thank you for all your videos :)
The EKA combi is the best folding saw I have used for outdoors. Light, portable and effective. Silky are a 'gimmick'. For smaller work I use either a Bahcho Laplander or Opinel number 13 saw. Either are perfectlly adequate at camp or on day hikes and are very portable. The only people who need a 30 inch bow saw and 3ft felling axe are a professional woodman.
Even then I wouldn't take more than a 21" combi-saw and a hunters axe of about 20" in length. I have a Swedish Hults classic hunters axe of that size with a 2lb head and it and the saw are capable of some serious wood processing at camp. I am mainly a day hike man with the occasional overnight. for about 3lb in carry weight I could 'drop' and process 20-30ft trees with this in under an hour. What more do you need?
🎄☃️🎄Have a merry Christmas and a happy new year Lilly. I love all your videos 🎄🎁☃️🎁🎄
The Silky saws cut only on the pull stroke, best not to push on the forward stroke. Also there is a second position that changes the angle which makes cutting alot easier deprnding on the wood bring cut.
Thank you, Lilly. Very well made video.
Great review. can you review hatchets such as friskars x7 and similar hatchets for survival situations? thank you
Nice review. I might mention that it is possible to get different types of blades for both bow and folding saws. If you are working up firewood, consider a "dry wood" blade. They are far more efficient than the green wood blades you are using, Also, as you say, there is the advantage for folding saws, and some bow saws, because when backpacking or canoe/kayak tripping they can be very quick and easy to fold and stow away.
Hi lilly
Love your videos
Just have a qustion
How did you go about buying your forest land
Thanks :)
I have a nice bowsaw I got from the flea market for free. I was buying a scroll saw and I sweetened the deal by asking if I could have the saw thrown in. Turns out it is a really nice swedish bowsaw! My plan is to build a roycroft pack frame to carry it easier because I don't care how inconvenient they are, bowsaws are THE king. Fastest cutting, easy to sharpen, and spare blades take up virtually no space in your pack.
I own the Boreal21 and it is indeed the best saw for bushcraft/backpacking.
Good video Lilly. I also tend to use my bow saws more just for the fact they hold a more ergonomic position. Even though they may take a little longer to cut, if you are cutting a lot of logs, your wrists will appreciate it more at the end of the day. With that said I also am a big fan of the silkys when I am heading out for a night of two and my cutting demands are less.