PS5 PLAYSTATION 5 HDMI PORT REPLACEMENT NOTHING LEFT OUT
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- Hi guys this is my first youtube video Ive posted, as with anything I will get better as I get more familiar with whats needed to do the video correctly, equipment wise and editing etc., so I apologize if its not pro quality or choppy in advance. DISCLAIMER!: ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR AT YOUR OWN RISK! IF YOU ARE NOT A TECHNICIAN OR FEEL COMFORTABLE IN THAT YOU CAN HANDLE THIS LET A PROFESSIONAL HANDLE THE REPAIR FOR YOU! I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR YOU TAKING A BLOW TORCH TO YOUR NEW CONSOLE! With that said I hope you enjoy this video and even if you get only one takeaway from this vid I have done my job, thanks for watching!! Special shot out to AhlanZob1e for helping cap with the crappy cam we bought haha!!
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Thank you for this. I'm 1 month beyond the warranty. Its really got me mad. $250 for SONY to fix this senseless problem. I'm just going to do it myself!
A damn robbery
Fr there charging me 200
Thanks alot my guy im an electrician and learned soldering while in school but even i had a hard time with this especially getting that pesky bad hdmi port to come out... I've heard people say its tough but damn! Lol 😅 you saved me a couple 100 bucks
You are welcome, yes low melt for the win! Glad you got it sorted, glad to help!
I’m currently doing this for a friends PS5. I’ve worked on Dreamcast, WiiU Pad, and dozens of 360s and Xbox One. I love a good challenge.
Awesome! Good luck with it!
A list of equipment in the video description would be useful. I attempted this fix and I'm pretty sure I ruined the main board. The struggle I ran into is my iron would NOT melt the solder on the port. I cranked the heat up and it just started melting everything but the solder. I read over suggestions to keep a clean tip / tinned, add Flux, use lower temp solder to lower its melting temp, etc... I still can't tell what I did wrong. By all accounts it was exactly what you showed in the video the only difference being that it seemed easier when you did it 😂
Im sorry to hear that, I used aoyue Int 2900 iron station with stock large tip on high heat 470c with sra lowmelt and kingbo flux for port removal. Also used same to flow solder down anchors to install. Used a smaller tip at 420c for install on pins although the stock tip can also be used on pins to install. I used aoyue Int 968 hotair station with a 10mm nozzle set to 400-420c at 4 or 5 airflow to remove the decoupling cap. All this can be done with iron only as was kinda the point of the video with the exception of the shortcut I took on the small cap. Alternately hotair and lowmelt can be used to remove the port. You can also run hotair in assistance to your iron on the anchors to help that solder flow down the holes easier upon install.
My equipment has been good to me but there are many alternatives. For iron stations I would suggest hakko, for hotair the quick 861DW is nice. Kingbo is a good flux if get the real thing. Amtech is also great. 62/36/2 is the solder I use, gives it a nice shiny finish and great to work with. I went into as much detail as possible in the video including the temps and methods. Sometimes equipment varies in temps, some say they put out such n such heat but fall short. This board definitely requires alot of heat and assuming you used the methods I demonstrated you should have been successful as long your equipment was up to par. Best wishes, keep pushin forward, we all have had our days where we struggled but now its the daily breeze. ✌🏼
@@mrg1619 overall the video was excellent and quite descriptive which is why I chose to use it for my repair. I'm still hopeful that the high heat didn't damage the microscopic components next to the HDMI port. They're very very close. What is that a diode? I also somehow smeared a bunch of solder on the larger copper area, though I don't think it'll cause problems other than being really ugly and kind of embarrassing. I guess it serves me right trying to learn how to solder on somehting a bit more advanced.
@@micahkelly2620 as long as you didnt lift pads or lose components you should be in good shape. Then again even that is repairable tho. Dont worry about a lil silver gettin on the copper, just braid it best as can. Thats just cosmetic flaw. Will not affect anything. The lil booger by the pins is a 100pF (0.1uf) 0201 5% - Decoupling Capacitor if ya ever need one…
sourcelyplus.com/collections/playstation-5/products/hdmi-port-decoupling-capacitor-5-pack
Exact problem im having what do i do i removed the port perfectly fine but i can clear out the solder to the put the new port in
Cant**
😍 great job, how much would cost ? And is it the same hdmi port that supports 8k resolution for future ps5 updates?
Thanks
Hi Mazin I really only do local repair in Tucson AZ, Reason being is cost of shipping and the liability in regard to handling. There are plenty of local shops that can assist you however. Im a member of Console Repair Legion and we may have a tech near you to assist, check out the list of approved shops here
repairlegion.com/repair
The port may support 8k, but the HDMI encoder chip won't, if it does, it probably won't to the 120hz we all want...
Were you using solder iron with heat gun attached to desolder ? If you havent used heat gun to desolder, why not ? Thanks for your response.
Hi, I use hot air. This was simply to demonstrate that it could be done with just an iron, normally I used just the iron and low melt to remove the port, but then I use hot air to flow solder down the anchors when installing the port.
@@mrg1619 Is that a heat gun with iron attached at 12:50 ?
@@ibrahimahmed6454 regular iron with fume extractor
I'm a beginner, but I pulled this off only because I practiced on series x and fixed all 19 pads and 9 trace wires on that one.. The ps5 seems a bit more difficult because of that header.. And the capacitor in the way and the diode on other side..I just finished my ps5 but I'm still not getting image... The encoder seems ok, given that there's no shorts in the caps around it.. So now I'm kinda lost. Not sure what to check at this point..
Gently pick at the pins to board to verify theyre soldered good, run continuity test from pins to destination point of traces down the board, sometimes can be a crack in the via that leads away from the pad, if you have a hdmi breakout board check from the breakout boards pads to the end of via destination point.
@@mrg1619 whats an HDMI breakout board? I did the continuity test between pins, but I'll track each pin down their traces, good idea!..I know the coils are good👍. Thanks!
@@_mylastname its basically a way to test hdmi input at the port to the board, tells you if the port is bad also, although really rare a port can be defective. Ive had one or 2 that I replaced the port n then all the sudden all was good, again really rare but a great way to test from the source side to the receiving end
@@_mylastname HDMI Plug Breakout Board www.amazon.com/dp/B075Q99J9J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6CGH6J6YNJWBK5VFNZPW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
@@_mylastname yes other thing to check is for solder bridges under port, checking continuity pin to neighboring pin is a good indicator/method to check if theres solder that flowed under port to multiple pins, so if checked that kudos to you
Are you new in this field ? Bro when you are using low melt soldering why does you use heat gun with low temp ?
This is simply a demonstration that it can be done with iron only. I definitely ecourage use of hotair if you know what you are doing. I guess I should take into consideration alot of phone techs are now trying to learn HDMI. But yes I usually use hot air to extract as well as to flow solder down anchors on install. This was made to be a DIY video, not to show an experienced tech how. An experienced tech wouldnt normally be here watchin my videos LOL. I may have to make a video using hotair on PS5 and Series X to help fellow techs tryin to learn HDMI tho. Youre not the first to question the method in this video.
Is there any other methods than to change the hdmi?
So this is a demonstration using soldering iron only. Using SRA fast chip on the pins and anchors to release the port from the board with no damage and then resoldering it. It was meant to demonstrate that can be done with common tool many have laying around. Hot air is what is commonly used however. It does require a bit more caution tho. On a daily basis I myself use this method to remove port and prep the board. The only thing I do different is I use hot air to flow solder down the port anchors. Its a lil faster than holding the hot iron to the anchors and waiting for the solder to flow down the anchors to other side of the board. I apply hot air to assist the iron on that part of it. The solder flows down the anchors easier and in less time. Then solder the pins, cleanup and done. Some techs use a “hot swap” method. They heat the port and that area of the port continuously and pull the port and drop the new one in place all at once. Its way faster than the method I use but I question if its as good a weld due to the way the port just gets dropped in so quick. Proper strong welds require heat applied to the port and the board or a cold weld can occur, a situation where solder doesnt properly bond to the port anchors. With the hot swap method port is not really hot when its dropped in place. I cant say its not a strong proper weld but I cant confirm it is. The method used in this video or with hotair to add solder and flow it down the anchors I can say is solid. So to answer your question…this video demonstrates the iron only way, the other way is with hotair to install and/or remove the port with various techniques.
Quick question is the thing you use a 17:37 tin
So sra fast chip low temp solder is used to blend with the lead free factory solder making it alot easier to remove the damaged port and clear the holes. Heres the thing tho…you dont wanna leave any trace amount of that sra fast chip on the motherboard during cleanup because once you start to solder your new port on it will make for a weaker weld. So you wanna clean with braid thorougly. Then tin the pads with regular solder and clean with braid once more. Then tin the pads on the board again with regular solder. Then place your port and start soldering away. Tinning refers to adding a regular solder to whatever your soldering. Its kinda like priming the parts so its easier to get the bonding process going. Some people lightly tin the anchors of the port and the pins on the port as well. I personally only do the pads on the board. See once youve tinned anything once you give it a lil flux and heat its gonna bond much easier than if you took two clean surfaces and started to add flux and solder. So thats what tinning is, basically priming with solder one or more parts youre gonna be soldering together.
@@mrg1619 thank you
What equipment would I need for this?
Youll need a security bit T8 or T9. You need a hotair station, a soldering station or combo of the both. A microscope is recommended. I suggest using a lowmelt solder like chipquik and good flux like amtech or what I use is kingbo. Youll need decent solder, solder wick, cotton swabs and 99 isopropyl for cleanup. The liquid silver can be reused but if you need some, grizzly makes a good one. Most of all tho is patience and hopefully some soldering experience. If this is a first timer job for you in regard to soldering or using the mentioned equipment you definitely want to practice on broken consoles first or consider having a reputable shop take the job on.
I'm having issues with my ps5 it blinks blue then dies and my TV doesn't pick any signal , do you think it would be the hdmi port?
Blue light of death on the older gens was typically APU bad or needs reball, bad power supply, southbridge etc. On the PS5 its been all sorts of things. Bad fan, bad power supply, bad hdmi encoder, short somewhere on the board. I think I even seen online something in regard to software. I usually recommend send in on those if I dont find a short somewhere with my thermal cam. Still learning as I go on those.
Ayooo joe
I recently broke my ps5 hdmi and not trying to get in trouble can you tell me if it’s cheaper to get it done or do it yourself and is it hard for a beginner
Its definitely not a job for a first timer, the disassembly is medium difficulty for even someone experienced that first time they open it, theres alot of screws, the soldering process is definitely not easy. The recommended equipment cost couple hundred at least. There are reputable shops that can help you get it done locally, you can call and find out what they are askin for the job. Just make sure they got good reviews and whatnot.
Poor technician ur about to damage the printed circuit board using just ur force tapping on the hdmi pin.U put a lot of heat on the mother boad aswell which is bad for other electronics components. Dont u have hot air? If im ur client i wnt step on ur door and repair my gadjet.
Well youre obviously not very well informed on the amount of heat this mother board soaks up and the amount of heat it takes to reach melting point due to the thickness of the motherboard. Its quite the heat sponge. Yes I have hot air and I use it very often, daily in fact. This video was made to demonstrate that the repair can be done with iron only. Hot air is easier when it comes to flowing solder down the achors of course and thats normally how you would remove and install a port which is how I normally do it. Again this was to show it can be done with just an iron. No youre not gonna damage the board by hitting each individual pin. Been doin this daily since 2010 and I have never damaged a board.
Tell me you havent done a PS5 without telling me you havent done a PS5 ; )
Let me tell ya it takes no less that 450-480c with hot air to get the board hot enough to melt the solder holding the anchors. Also good luck using anything less to clear the anchor holes. You would know this if youve done a PS5 or a Series X. Requires a lot of heat. In this video I used iron only and iron only is not enough to get nearby SMDs hot enough to float so to say the board is hot enough to be damaged is incorrect. Hotair on the other hand used to remove/install port (which is the faster way and the way I normally do it) or hot swap creates more heat than in this video. You need at least 450-480c to get the anchor solder to melting point and using hot air radiates to the nearby SMDs so tell me why my iron only will cause damage to the board. Please explain to me.
Your video doesn’t help at all
Yeah to some it is and to some its not. At the end of the day the result speaks for itself tho. This is simply a demo showing how to do with only a soldering iron and low melt. Consulting a reputable local shop is always recommended. Or if youre a well versed tech incorporate hot air into the mix. A good flux, high heat and low melt is your friend. Theres at least a couple things here to pick up for DIYers and seasoned vets too. If you have any questions let me know. Id be happy to help. Just reply in comments