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I just wish he showed micro adjustments when aiming after the replacement bcus they don't ever recenter properly on any elite 2 i seen unless u want massive deadzones

So I reviewed the footage. It’s correct. So when you’re testing for continuity across the positive and negative pins on the 12V connector it should not have ping and show continuity, doesn’t matter which orientation you put the probes in, that might be the part you’re talking about because I notice in the video I had the red multimeter probe in the ground side, (pins closest to edge are positive) In that particular section I was testing for continuity between the positive and negative pins on the board, it didn’t really matter which orientation. But all the information is correct in the video. Let me know at which particular timestamp you saw something off or misworded/explained and I will be happy to review it or let you know what was going on there. Or if you have any questions, I’ll be happy to help. Thanks so much for watching the video. -Joe

@@mrg1619 Hi, thanks for the reply. I wasn't referring to the swapping of Black/Red probes but I mistakenly thought you put the Black probe on the copper ring around the board, ground, with the positive in the negative row @ 4:08. Now I see you used the 2 rows and the probes are simply backward, ok, no issue.

@@evilpizzaboy so as long as its the same type of part. For example If its for Xbox controller then yes you can take parts from other xbox controllers and even some playstation controllers. As long as its the same type for example Alps brand and the same resistance on the pots. For example 10k pots can be swapped for 10k pots or wipers in the pot. Its always gonna be recommended to use new parts tho. And calibration will still be needed because they are factory set to 0 with programming. The good news is tho that you can now use your console to do that part. You can go into settings and recalibrate after repair. The series S and X however dont really need this as they self calibrate most of the time. Very rarely do they need a lil help by the methods I show in the video. Please Note that elite 2 controller will not have calibration option in the xbox settings.

Thx so much

Hi, I use hot air. This was simply to demonstrate that it could be done with just an iron, normally I used just the iron and low melt to remove the port, but then I use hot air to flow solder down the anchors when installing the port.

@@mrg1619 Is that a heat gun with iron attached at 12:50 ?

@@ibrahimahmed6454 regular iron with fume extractor

Hi, so the stock nozzle on the FR301 is like 1.0mm and its too small, I used the N61-10 (1.6mm) in this video and its ok but I am currently using the N61-17 which is a 2.3mm and it works awesome, nice large bore so it takes all the solder up easily and can be cleaned easier too. Heat setting to 3.5 but use good amount of flux n go fast so you dont burn board

You are welcome, yes low melt for the win! Glad you got it sorted, glad to help!

So sra fast chip low temp solder is used to blend with the lead free factory solder making it alot easier to remove the damaged port and clear the holes. Heres the thing tho…you dont wanna leave any trace amount of that sra fast chip on the motherboard during cleanup because once you start to solder your new port on it will make for a weaker weld. So you wanna clean with braid thorougly. Then tin the pads with regular solder and clean with braid once more. Then tin the pads on the board again with regular solder. Then place your port and start soldering away. Tinning refers to adding a regular solder to whatever your soldering. Its kinda like priming the parts so its easier to get the bonding process going. Some people lightly tin the anchors of the port and the pins on the port as well. I personally only do the pads on the board. See once youve tinned anything once you give it a lil flux and heat its gonna bond much easier than if you took two clean surfaces and started to add flux and solder. So thats what tinning is, basically priming with solder one or more parts youre gonna be soldering together.

@@mrg1619 thank you

So this is a demonstration using soldering iron only. Using SRA fast chip on the pins and anchors to release the port from the board with no damage and then resoldering it. It was meant to demonstrate that can be done with common tool many have laying around. Hot air is what is commonly used however. It does require a bit more caution tho. On a daily basis I myself use this method to remove port and prep the board. The only thing I do different is I use hot air to flow solder down the port anchors. Its a lil faster than holding the hot iron to the anchors and waiting for the solder to flow down the anchors to other side of the board. I apply hot air to assist the iron on that part of it. The solder flows down the anchors easier and in less time. Then solder the pins, cleanup and done. Some techs use a “hot swap” method. They heat the port and that area of the port continuously and pull the port and drop the new one in place all at once. Its way faster than the method I use but I question if its as good a weld due to the way the port just gets dropped in so quick. Proper strong welds require heat applied to the port and the board or a cold weld can occur, a situation where solder doesnt properly bond to the port anchors. With the hot swap method port is not really hot when its dropped in place. I cant say its not a strong proper weld but I cant confirm it is. The method used in this video or with hotair to add solder and flow it down the anchors I can say is solid. So to answer your question…this video demonstrates the iron only way, the other way is with hotair to install and/or remove the port with various techniques.

So that tool I made. I took a metal spudger pry tool and used a dremel tool with a cutting disc to shape it and cut a slot in the end piece. The tool is “3 pcs spudger tool” on amazon. Youll spot it there. Originally a 2 ended skinny metal pry tool. Been using it for years to calibrate to near 0 deadzone after module or pot replacement. The other method is using resistors or variable resistors. Look up “drift fix analog stick” on amazon n youll see lil piece you solder to pins and then adjust the screw.

Check the 4 solder points to the board. If the pad that you solder to or the trace was damaged you may need to run jumper wire.

Check with multimeter that when you press the stick you get continuity acroos the pins for that tactile switch/sensor. Also check tactlie pin to pad/trace continuity. Thatll rule out bad tactile or bad connection to board.

Yeah to some it is and to some its not. At the end of the day the result speaks for itself tho. This is simply a demo showing how to do with only a soldering iron and low melt. Consulting a reputable local shop is always recommended. Or if youre a well versed tech incorporate hot air into the mix. A good flux, high heat and low melt is your friend. Theres at least a couple things here to pick up for DIYers and seasoned vets too. If you have any questions let me know. Id be happy to help. Just reply in comments

This is simply a demonstration that it can be done with iron only. I definitely ecourage use of hotair if you know what you are doing. I guess I should take into consideration alot of phone techs are now trying to learn HDMI. But yes I usually use hot air to extract as well as to flow solder down anchors on install. This was made to be a DIY video, not to show an experienced tech how. An experienced tech wouldnt normally be here watchin my videos LOL. I may have to make a video using hotair on PS5 and Series X to help fellow techs tryin to learn HDMI tho. Youre not the first to question the method in this video.

Google gamepad tester

So the page doesn’t actually calibrate the controllers, it’s the controller that does this on the series S and X as well as on the elite series 2 controllers, its built in. But on the other controllers you have to calibrate with other methods, and this page allows you to see if you are dialed in or not. It’ll also show you if the analog module is just too worn to calibrate or simply replace a pot sensor n be good to go. It’s a gauge so to speak.

Well youre obviously not very well informed on the amount of heat this mother board soaks up and the amount of heat it takes to reach melting point due to the thickness of the motherboard. Its quite the heat sponge. Yes I have hot air and I use it very often, daily in fact. This video was made to demonstrate that the repair can be done with iron only. Hot air is easier when it comes to flowing solder down the achors of course and thats normally how you would remove and install a port which is how I normally do it. Again this was to show it can be done with just an iron. No youre not gonna damage the board by hitting each individual pin. Been doin this daily since 2010 and I have never damaged a board.

Tell me you havent done a PS5 without telling me you havent done a PS5 ; ) Let me tell ya it takes no less that 450-480c with hot air to get the board hot enough to melt the solder holding the anchors. Also good luck using anything less to clear the anchor holes. You would know this if youve done a PS5 or a Series X. Requires a lot of heat. In this video I used iron only and iron only is not enough to get nearby SMDs hot enough to float so to say the board is hot enough to be damaged is incorrect. Hotair on the other hand used to remove/install port (which is the faster way and the way I normally do it) or hot swap creates more heat than in this video. You need at least 450-480c to get the anchor solder to melting point and using hot air radiates to the nearby SMDs so tell me why my iron only will cause damage to the board. Please explain to me.

A damn robbery

Fr there charging me 200

As long as you dont have too much wear on the assembly you can change just the pot. 10k pot is whats needed. What causes drift is usually worn/defective pots. The wiper that makes contact on the inner surface of the pot can be broken or just not enough wiper spring tension to the contact pickup/sensor surface or the contact surface can be excessively worn out. So again you can get away with just swapping the pot as long as the module itself isnt too worn mechanicanically wise.

If it was on the elite series 2 just move the stick around a few times and it should self calibrate, If it’s still drifting then you may have a defective module or poor solder contact. If all thats good then you can use a variable resistor to assist in centering or bend the arm a bit to manually adjust center.

I mostly do local repairs, I have had some items mailed tho. Email me at SouthwestConsoleRepair@yahoo.com for more info, thx

I’ve never tried before or really looked at the differences in thumbstick height so I can’t say for sure it would be compatible but it just might be. The Alps module for regular controllers and Elite series one and PS4 would certainly mount and solder to the series 2 board, but you won’t be able to use the sticks from Series 2 that twist on, you would have to use the elite one style thumbstick or a regular controller plastic thumbstick. Again I think the height might have some implications as to if it fits or not But would certainly mount to the board and have the 10k resistance pots all the same

Se le da huelta como un tornillo. Si batallas usa unas pinsas con cuidado.

Yes I do offer mail in on the controllers. Text me at 5203585458 for info, thx -Joe

How much do you charge I can’t get the solder out to save my life

Blue light of death on the older gens was typically APU bad or needs reball, bad power supply, southbridge etc. On the PS5 its been all sorts of things. Bad fan, bad power supply, bad hdmi encoder, short somewhere on the board. I think I even seen online something in regard to software. I usually recommend send in on those if I dont find a short somewhere with my thermal cam. Still learning as I go on those.

Thanks, yes thats one of the things I definitely wanna work on, camera angle and zoom as well as the presentation. Its a work in progress haha, thanks for watching and thanks for the sub

@@mrg1619 Hey, no problem. The fact that even after a year you still manage to read comments and reply shows you're interested and dedicated to your channel. If you dont mind answering, what kind of flux would you recommend for electronic soldering like in the video (or what you tend to use now)? I'm still fairly new to soldering and I believe not having a good brand of flux is causing some of my heat flow issues.

@@jb8478 I use Kingbo RMA-218, Ive also used the Amtech NC-559-ASM-TF and yes you are correct flux definitely makes a huge difference in the quality of the work

Yes unless you get super lucky any authentic ALPS module you replace will need calibration in any controller prior to Series S/X models or Elite 2 as they self calibrate. The Ebay or Amazon knockoff modules also usually need no calibration because their neutral position is more forgiving. In other words the stick isnt as sensitive to that initial movement so it dont really drift. In those knockoffs some are more sensitive than others and you can usually adjust deadzone in the game settings so its not the end of the world, but that also takes away some precision from those down range snipe shots tho as youll have to work harder to center the reticle, kinda like driving a car with worn out linkage, you can turn the wheel left to right and the cars still drivin in the same direction lol is a good example. So youll really have to work harder to dial in on target. Hope this helps, thanks for watchin -Joe

So the thumbstick base actually screws onto a threaded post. Those threads may be a lil worn. You would need to replace the module and/or the base of thumbstick. Or if you feel its up to your skillset and dont mind it being locked in one place you could add a dab of loctite to the threaded post on the analog then screw the base on it. Loctite will keep it in place. Only con is wont be able to select tension. I personally dont use the tension. I got mine screwed all the way in.

@@mrg1619I guess Imma lock it, thats a good idea actually, thank you very much for the video, the reply and your time!

@@Gunner3K welcome

Thank you Harry, I gave it a go to show I was competent to take care of the repairs they needed. Also to help out the community, I plan to do the Series S and X HDMI port replacement vids next. Took a lil away time as my camera guy aka stepson got a full time gig n doesnt have much time. Im gonna see how I do with a tripod haha. Thanks for the kind words.

@@mrg1619 ahh it looks easy when you do it and explain it but from experiance it isnt . Bought aload of soldering equitment meself and some broken items going to have a go and learn myself . Keep it up bud ill be on the lookout for when you post. P.s get a discord .

The paddle board?

Yes once you replace with new one and move the stick around a few times on S/X or Elite 2 itll self calibrate. But old worn sticks or bad pots will not. Older controllers like Elite 1 and original xbox one controllers require calibration

Appreciate that

.032" No-Clean Core Flux 62/36/2

Hi Kirk, stock tip I think is a 1mm, I was using that originally but it kinda was a tight fit on the anchors, In this vid Im using the N61-10 1.6 mm tip. Works fantastic. Im using SRA fast chip but chipquik or any of those will do. Add flux n hit the fast chip with your iron first at like 400 on all pins/anchors. Then come with Fr-301 at 400-450 and hold it over the pin/anchor just a second or 2 and then squeeze that trigger. If the analog doesnt slide right out, do flux lowmelt with iron once more, slightly wiggle them anchors n pins while heating the fastchip to ensure its dropping down the hole to other side because sometimes there will be some holdout original solder lurkin. With the high temps just be careful, dont let the iron or gun stay on the board longer than needed. For resoldering I use 420 on the anchors long enough to flow solder down holes, then use 350 on the pins very quickly as to not damage the pots. Let me know if this helped. Thanks for checkin out my vid.

Thank You for getting back to me. Thinking I need a slightly bigger tip and a little more heat. I got a pair of analogs out of an Elite 2 last night, YAY! It took a couple rounds of resolder and desolder but they finally slipped out. Just need to fine tune my steps. You got me over the hump on this one, thanks again!!!

Yes youre right some aftermarket assemblies have crappy parts so best to use OEM ALPS if possible. Know youre supplier n dont just buy some Amazon special for sure. The ones used in the vid I cant say are OEM for sure but are definitely good and havent had any returns yet. On the original (non threaded) sticks on previous models I always resupply OEM thru mouser. These Elite 2 sticks in particular havent been released thru mouser unfortunately.

@@mrg1619 I'm mostly saying this because of the calibration on the individual controller, quality aside. It's now helpful with the Elite controllers and newer XB controllers that you have some dynamic calibration, but that is still based on the initial values stored since the pad left production line, thus based on the original pots values. Changing the default center will also change the linearity of the off-center left/right values and unless you'd plot those values to a graph it's unlikely you'd notice anything bad with just a quick test, but you'd "feel the stick" not "aiming" like with the original while trying to actually play something more.. demanding. Most people would not feel much difference and if they would, they'd only attribute it to having a bad day for gaming (as one does) Keeping the original pots, provided they're not faulty would only leave the mechanical parts tolerance to be a factor into needing any calibration after the swap and since you'd use a brand new, genuine part, that tolerance should be minimal, thus unnoticeable (even to a plotted graph)

@@Costinmusca yeah youre definitely right about that, closest to original resistance on the pots and OE pots is best. Good info, thanks for sharing

@@mrg1619 thanks so much for the awesome video, I learned so much. Which part do you get from mouser for the xbox series x controller analog stick?

@@lemonbalm_tea I ordered a bunch of these last year, dont think these in particular are available no more tho. Theres is a new one I ordered a couple of but I havent verified fitment/compatibility or tried out just yet, still workin thru the stock I have of these ones I ordered last year sometime. www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Alps-Alpine/RKJXV1224005?qs=RiQAlOPxzzAqLSX9lUzx8Q%3D%3D I ll add a link to the others I havent tested just yet on another reply but if I recall correctly specs are similar. Need to revisit to verify.

Yes for sure, on the older controllers thats the method I actually use for zeroing in a newly installed joystick, I created a tool thats kinda like a fork that grabs that arm n bends it. Some guys clip the plastic nubs on the pot then zero in by twisting and soldering in that position once its good, others solder resistors to the pins. I like to just bend the arm that goes into pot as youve mentioned. I stick a lil flathead into the hole near the joystick to help support plastic from bending while I torque on the outside arm til it zeros in.

The setup is Aoyue Int 2900, the desoldering gun is Hakko Fr-301 Low melt is SRA Fastchip. Can use chipquik and regular solder sucker along with braid to do the job as well

Gently pick at the pins to board to verify theyre soldered good, run continuity test from pins to destination point of traces down the board, sometimes can be a crack in the via that leads away from the pad, if you have a hdmi breakout board check from the breakout boards pads to the end of via destination point.

@@mrg1619 whats an HDMI breakout board? I did the continuity test between pins, but I'll track each pin down their traces, good idea!..I know the coils are good👍. Thanks!

@@_mylastname its basically a way to test hdmi input at the port to the board, tells you if the port is bad also, although really rare a port can be defective. Ive had one or 2 that I replaced the port n then all the sudden all was good, again really rare but a great way to test from the source side to the receiving end

@@_mylastname HDMI Plug Breakout Board www.amazon.com/dp/B075Q99J9J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6CGH6J6YNJWBK5VFNZPW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

@@_mylastname yes other thing to check is for solder bridges under port, checking continuity pin to neighboring pin is a good indicator/method to check if theres solder that flowed under port to multiple pins, so if checked that kudos to you

www.ebay.com/itm/Replacement-Analog-Joystick-Thumbstick-For-Xbox-One-Elite-2-Wireless-Controller-/233686117785?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

Thanks Derek

Im sorry to hear that, I used aoyue Int 2900 iron station with stock large tip on high heat 470c with sra lowmelt and kingbo flux for port removal. Also used same to flow solder down anchors to install. Used a smaller tip at 420c for install on pins although the stock tip can also be used on pins to install. I used aoyue Int 968 hotair station with a 10mm nozzle set to 400-420c at 4 or 5 airflow to remove the decoupling cap. All this can be done with iron only as was kinda the point of the video with the exception of the shortcut I took on the small cap. Alternately hotair and lowmelt can be used to remove the port. You can also run hotair in assistance to your iron on the anchors to help that solder flow down the holes easier upon install. My equipment has been good to me but there are many alternatives. For iron stations I would suggest hakko, for hotair the quick 861DW is nice. Kingbo is a good flux if get the real thing. Amtech is also great. 62/36/2 is the solder I use, gives it a nice shiny finish and great to work with. I went into as much detail as possible in the video including the temps and methods. Sometimes equipment varies in temps, some say they put out such n such heat but fall short. This board definitely requires alot of heat and assuming you used the methods I demonstrated you should have been successful as long your equipment was up to par. Best wishes, keep pushin forward, we all have had our days where we struggled but now its the daily breeze. ✌🏼

@@mrg1619 overall the video was excellent and quite descriptive which is why I chose to use it for my repair. I'm still hopeful that the high heat didn't damage the microscopic components next to the HDMI port. They're very very close. What is that a diode? I also somehow smeared a bunch of solder on the larger copper area, though I don't think it'll cause problems other than being really ugly and kind of embarrassing. I guess it serves me right trying to learn how to solder on somehting a bit more advanced.

@@micahkelly2620 as long as you didnt lift pads or lose components you should be in good shape. Then again even that is repairable tho. Dont worry about a lil silver gettin on the copper, just braid it best as can. Thats just cosmetic flaw. Will not affect anything. The lil booger by the pins is a 100pF (0.1uf) 0201 5% - Decoupling Capacitor if ya ever need one… sourcelyplus.com/collections/playstation-5/products/hdmi-port-decoupling-capacitor-5-pack

Exact problem im having what do i do i removed the port perfectly fine but i can clear out the solder to the put the new port in

Cant**

Thx, yeah definitely not necessary, I always do tho lol, 1 it confirms for me that the solder flowed down the anchor or pin, the other reason I do it is..although I document by serial number the repairs, its my trademark of sort, verifies its my work and also which module was swapped. I give one year warranty which is nuts so that one way I know “yep thats my work” haha I do same on my hdmi ports, actually bridging the 4 anchors on both sides of board as well

Awesome! Good luck with it!

Thx Tyler

Thx Roger

Youll need a security bit T8 or T9. You need a hotair station, a soldering station or combo of the both. A microscope is recommended. I suggest using a lowmelt solder like chipquik and good flux like amtech or what I use is kingbo. Youll need decent solder, solder wick, cotton swabs and 99 isopropyl for cleanup. The liquid silver can be reused but if you need some, grizzly makes a good one. Most of all tho is patience and hopefully some soldering experience. If this is a first timer job for you in regard to soldering or using the mentioned equipment you definitely want to practice on broken consoles first or consider having a reputable shop take the job on.

Hi Mazin I really only do local repair in Tucson AZ, Reason being is cost of shipping and the liability in regard to handling. There are plenty of local shops that can assist you however. Im a member of Console Repair Legion and we may have a tech near you to assist, check out the list of approved shops here repairlegion.com/repair

The port may support 8k, but the HDMI encoder chip won't, if it does, it probably won't to the 120hz we all want...