I've poured and finished 3 large slabs (full truck per slab) using your instruction alone, they all look professional and several years later no cracks. My latest slab I purchased a Vibrastrike with a 10 ft' pan just because you show us how easy it makes the job. I hope you understand just what you contribute to the world with your no nonsense approach to narration. Thanks
I’m a builder, contractor, home builder in the Chicago area. When doing a slab on grade we normally thicken or bell out the perimeter on all four sides. Rebar included with, fibremesh. We also pour a3” slope to the front of the slab if it is a garage. Then we follow up with a curb on 4 sides where the frame walls sit.
Mike, we just poured a similar pad (30x60) here in Mass. Because the bldg was over 600SF the building inspector had me do CMU walls and footings 4ft down around the perimeter of the building, instead of a monolithic pour. You guys do nice work. And yes, the guys doing the raking can make things real hard or real easy
Not all concrete cracks. If you put in enough steel, it won't crack. I know that to be a fact. Outdoor slab in New York. 5" thick, 12x20, no joints, 7 years old, zero cracks. Lots of steel in every direction
Those screed demons are nice. We’ve been using the same gas powered one for about 8-9 years never had a problem. Like how you strike off the wet pads by hand though. Nice work as always
Homebuilder in CT. I cannot imagine that there is no frost wall for this barn or a even haunch as you were describing. I would worry about my investment but as you said .. 'no call backs'.
Mike, I watch a few other conc guys on YT. No one seems to use the water reducer like you do. I've asked them. But you have to do what works for you. I'm a remodeler, it looks good to me. Several years watching your vids -- thank you -- Steve in NC
Plasticizer (water reducer) isn’t prohibitively expensive but it ain’t free either. At the end of the day, you’ll get a nicer finish product if you can focus your energy more into the finishing rather than wearing yourself out during the placement. Plasticizers really earn their money on verticals (walls and columns) where it helps it to flow into all the little spaces around the rebar and ties, up against the forms.
Concrete underground seems like a great deal if youre in that industry. But priced me out for just being curious to learn new stuff. Great value in these videos though. Thanks!
Hey Mike great channel, do you ever have a problem with the concrete sticking and pulling the top layer of paste off when using a water reducer when troweling?
I’m building a new garage I’m in New Brunswick Canada. You think I can get away with just this or should I do a four foot frost wall? Prob gonna be 26x40. I enjoy all your videos.
Mike whats the largest slab you think one good finisher can handle alone? Or a finisher with one labourer? I did 12 yard 24x24 alone once and i did a decent job but i seriously wished i brought a guy or two Did 12x25 yesterday with one guy to help rake and it was easy
@MikeDayConcrete Thanks. That makes sense. Now that you point that out, I remember learning that sometimes I have to turn the trowel (especially a mag because the concrete is still soft) backwards in my hand. WHY? Because the handle is not centered, so people tend to put pressure down unevenly - thereby forcing the mud out from under the handle toward the far edge of the tool. New guys, I have trained, tend to do what I call roll the edges - and even more so with an edger. Then I come behind them, trying to level it back out - often too late to fix it.
Maine’s climate must be very different than I had imagined or recalled because the Maple trees still have their leaves (9 days ago), and there is no footer? Slab on grade with no insulation or a knee wall down to a footer below the frost line (48” in Maine)??? How long is this slab intended to stay in tact? In the U.S. southeast, I wouldn’t even do a slab like this without a monolithic 12” footer built-in. I am no expert but experience tells me no to even set a shed or a pavilion on a slab like that. Nothing against you Mike but homeowners rely on professionals like you to lead them and their project. Do you even offer a lifetime warranty? If not, why would anyone call you back 2-3 winters later after the slab heaves, cracks, or shifts? I know if they called me to look at it after it cracked, shifted, sinks, or heaved, I would say, “Well, you got what you paid for…” I imagine their horror when they have $50k-$200k worth of garage or barn sitting on a slab on grade with no footer or stem wall below the frost line.
If thats to standard then I'ld never build a house using standard, where's the perimeter footings, where is the footings running across the slab no reobar, where's the outer wall step in the slab, truly that slab is what I'ld use for a shed, not a house.
I've poured and finished 3 large slabs (full truck per slab) using your instruction alone, they all look professional and several years later no cracks. My latest slab I purchased a Vibrastrike with a 10 ft' pan just because you show us how easy it makes the job. I hope you understand just what you contribute to the world with your no nonsense approach to narration. Thanks
Mike, your crew does a professional job every time. It looks so good all the time.
Thanks Mike
Thanks for your Generosity to teach👏
It's my pleasure
I’m a builder, contractor, home builder in the Chicago area. When doing a slab on grade we normally thicken or bell out the perimeter on all four sides. Rebar included with, fibremesh. We also pour a3” slope to the front of the slab if it is a garage.
Then we follow up with a curb on 4 sides where the frame walls sit.
It's been a while since I seen your videos. You guys still rock!!
Mike, we just poured a similar pad (30x60) here in Mass. Because the bldg was over 600SF the building inspector had me do CMU walls and footings 4ft down around the perimeter of the building, instead of a monolithic pour. You guys do nice work. And yes, the guys doing the raking can make things real hard or real easy
Thank you
So what's stopping it from separation? All concrete cracks. The purpose of rebar is so when it does Crack, it doesn't separate.....
Yeah, its called reinforced concrete!
Not all concrete cracks. If you put in enough steel, it won't crack. I know that to be a fact. Outdoor slab in New York. 5" thick, 12x20, no joints, 7 years old, zero cracks. Lots of steel in every direction
I've only poured one slab, after learning what I could from your videos. :) I still come back and watch for more pour action.
That guy knew what he was doing, looks nice and clean. That being said his place also looks pristine.
Those screed demons are nice. We’ve been using the same gas powered one for about 8-9 years never had a problem. Like how you strike off the wet pads by hand though. Nice work as always
Homebuilder in CT. I cannot imagine that there is no frost wall for this barn or a even haunch as you were describing. I would worry about my investment but as you said .. 'no call backs'.
I really enjoyed this video. I am a DIYer and want to learn how to pour concrete that looks this good. I'm purchasing that course.
Beautiful job Mike.
Good video today Mike. Your details and instruction really help me here in the Merrimack Valley of Massachusetts. Thanks
Glad to hear it
Mike, I watch a few other conc guys on YT. No one seems to use the water reducer like you do. I've asked them. But you have to do what works for you. I'm a remodeler, it looks good to me. Several years watching your vids -- thank you -- Steve in NC
Plasticizer (water reducer) isn’t prohibitively expensive but it ain’t free either. At the end of the day, you’ll get a nicer finish product if you can focus your energy more into the finishing rather than wearing yourself out during the placement. Plasticizers really earn their money on verticals (walls and columns) where it helps it to flow into all the little spaces around the rebar and ties, up against the forms.
I like the technique you to pouring concrete. Very nice work 👍
?? Mike on the manual screed... Do you use the squared edge or the rounded edge?
Thanks
Great job as always! I appreciate you.
Very nice work!
Thank you! Cheers!
Concrete underground seems like a great deal if youre in that industry. But priced me out for just being curious to learn new stuff. Great value in these videos though. Thanks!
Hey Mike great channel, do you ever have a problem with the concrete sticking and pulling the top layer of paste off when using a water reducer when troweling?
love your channel. Do you ever put a sealer on a new garage floor?
I really wished the people who poured their slab watched this.
I’m building a new garage I’m in New Brunswick Canada. You think I can get away with just this or should I do a four foot frost wall? Prob gonna be 26x40. I enjoy all your videos.
Okay, I gotta ask - why no rebar or wire mesh?
Mike whats the largest slab you think one good finisher can handle alone? Or a finisher with one labourer? I did 12 yard 24x24 alone once and i did a decent job but i seriously wished i brought a guy or two
Did 12x25 yesterday with one guy to help rake and it was easy
I'm seeing a lot of contractors that do not know what they're doing and wasting the time in construction
That’s awesome. 10% savings to form?
What was the total bill? Was his $2300 savings 10% or 30%.
Pour 200 sq ft myself for a shed and probably saved 2k from some random contractor.
I was surprised to see you mag-ing your edges while standing in the concrete. I am thinking that is intentional - so why?
They tend to be flatter when you mag them from the inside.
@MikeDayConcrete Thanks. That makes sense.
Now that you point that out, I remember learning that sometimes I have to turn the trowel (especially a mag because the concrete is still soft) backwards in my hand. WHY? Because the handle is not centered, so people tend to put pressure down unevenly - thereby forcing the mud out from under the handle toward the far edge of the tool. New guys, I have trained, tend to do what I call roll the edges - and even more so with an edger. Then I come behind them, trying to level it back out - often too late to fix it.
I have a question for you Mike why do you time lapse it
You can watch it with the playback speed slowed down if you want (.75X, .5X).
You sound like a new England man
Maine
@johnsingleton1937 love it up there RI guy here
but rebar still used, gotcha
How do you get them out of a church wedding?? Tell them the mixer truck is out front!! Lol!!!
Work smarter not harder contractors
Maine’s climate must be very different than I had imagined or recalled because the Maple trees still have their leaves (9 days ago), and there is no footer? Slab on grade with no insulation or a knee wall down to a footer below the frost line (48” in Maine)??? How long is this slab intended to stay in tact? In the U.S. southeast, I wouldn’t even do a slab like this without a monolithic 12” footer built-in. I am no expert but experience tells me no to even set a shed or a pavilion on a slab like that. Nothing against you Mike but homeowners rely on professionals like you to lead them and their project. Do you even offer a lifetime warranty? If not, why would anyone call you back 2-3 winters later after the slab heaves, cracks, or shifts? I know if they called me to look at it after it cracked, shifted, sinks, or heaved, I would say, “Well, you got what you paid for…” I imagine their horror when they have $50k-$200k worth of garage or barn sitting on a slab on grade with no footer or stem wall below the frost line.
If thats to standard then I'ld never build a house using standard, where's the perimeter footings, where is the footings running across the slab no reobar, where's the outer wall step in the slab, truly that slab is what I'ld use for a shed, not a house.
A contractor that builds houses, had to be taught to set up a concrete form? 🤦♂️ Sounds like one of those book smart manager types.
Set them up the way we like them. There's a difference than just setting them up any old way.