'59 Les Paul Burst nitro finish by Dr.Nitro. part 3. Painting
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- Опубликовано: 25 апр 2018
- '59 Les Paul clone Painting. Sunburst color layers. In this part I show each stage of applying color on. Intermediate sanding and applying the serial number with a vintage stamp.
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Thank you! 
Видеоклипы
![Gibson Les Paul R9 refinish. PART 1 [How to remove Gibson factory lacquer]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/yks_xVrv3y4/mqdefault.jpg)
You're an artist, sir.
You make it look so easy. Beautiful work.
Very beautiful work, man. I’ve always loved the Les Paul design. You have mastered the sunburst, as well as the construction of the instrument. I’m a beginning guitar builder myself, and my next project is going to be a Les Paul. Your videos have inspired me to tackle my first sunburst finish as well. Thank you for sharing your wonderful skills! Keep it up! :)
A master craftsman at work. Absolutely fabulous build and paint job. Well done.
This guy is the real deal!!!
Ah this is great man! the guitars look really beautiful, you and Valery make some fine art! Cheers from the US
Thank you!
Beautiful work !
Amazing finishing. Life-lasting. I love it!
Thank you!
Great work.
it's STUNNING!!!
WOW! YOU ARE AMAZING DUDE! YOU ARE A TRUE ARTIST AT THE PINNACLE, OF YOUR CRAFT!!!!!!
Fantastic ! Beautiful work.
Thank you
You do amazing work, a true artist!
Thank you!
Looks amazing! As a matter of taste I cannot believe you sprayed red over that SENSATIONAL LEMONBURST but I know some folk preferes the traditional cherry red.
Awesome!
just wow !
Nice job!
Thank you!
beautiful
Thank you!
I can tell you have the arch carve simply perfect. Gibson doesn't even make them like that anymore. Maybe on their super pricey historics.
Has anyone noticed the happy smile on the body!
:))
Perfect
Private stock PRS ultra tops in my opinion do not compare to this classic cream bound top
MASTER PIECE BRAVO!!!
Dude's knows his shit.
:) thank you
I could spray that easy. The difficult part is the mixing and matching of colours in my opinion.
жду с нетерпением.
Чего ждешь? Следующее видео здесь: ruclips.net/video/vz2-EUh4fhk/видео.html
Amazing painting work Dr Nitro. I'm working on a 59' style guitar with faux binding. My doubt here is how to do it, dyeing the maple cap directly with amber stain (the task here is achieve a perfect line for the bindind with no bleed), or applying the pigment mixed with the nitro lacquer with the spry gun. In your experience, what do you think it would be best technique in order to get the best results ?
Looks amazing! Are you selling these once they're finished?
Awesome work, would you mind telling me about the Number stamp please? What manufacture and what font etc? Thanks
Привет! Подскажи , нитро лак должен быть специальный гитарный? Или можно использовать как альтернативу нитроцелюлозные лаки которые продаются в строй магазинах! У нас в Украине гитарного лака не найти , разве , что тянуть из за границы!
Может дашь совет какой лучше?
How does someone mix pigment to add to nitro to achieve a color they may want? For example, how do I crest shell pink. I have all the pigments from stew Mac. Just don’t know how to achieve the color I want. Any help would be appreciated.
Beautiful!!! Without your help, I don't think I could have done a good job of painting my Les Paul. Thank you very much! Only the number stamp failed me, because I used an old metal Paginier stamp and the color was not completely transferred. What color do you use and also do you use a metal stamp or a rubber stamp? It seems to me that a rubber stamp would be better, but that is probably only available with modern numerals.
Thank you. There will be even more detailed videos on my Patreon. www.patreon.com/8bombcustom
I have serial number stamp sets with correct numbers available: www.8bombcustom.com/accessories
Will the red fade out completely or just partially?
Hi.....are the backs of the vintage bursts sprayed in red, or is the back just clear coated over the red analine dye?
Yes, according to the original technology, the back of the guitar was covered with a tinted red aniline oil-soluble dye. Aniline has the property of mingling into laquer over time, which is why the already dried laquer turns red. the dye remains only in the pores of the wood.
Do you use the same nozzle for each layer, or do you vary depending on the application?
I've been watching Gibson factory videos, and they bang out a sunburst in about 2 minutes from start to finish, it's incredible how much more care and attention you put into your work.
I use one attachment for all layers. My method differs from the factory one in that my hard nitro varnish dries a little longer after application, since I use a solvent with a retarder. This allows me to make very thin and smooth layers and have complete control over the color. In the factories, Gibson uses a very fast varnish to shorten painting times and prevent future cracks. This varnish is only nominally called Nitro, but there are extremely many plasticizers in it. Even when dry, it is sticky. At the factory, it is poured in thick local layers and ground in third thicknesses. This allows you to pay less attention to the preparation of wood and masks minor flaws.
I can definitely see the benefit of your process, the extra care and attention shows in the final product. I've seen some other videos advocating the use of urethane as opposed to nitro. For an amateur like myself do you think it's ultimately going to make a difference? Hope you don't mind all these questions, appreciate any insights you can share.
@@andrewbowler4863 My painting process is constantly changing as I experiment a lot. But I have the opportunity to devote more time to this process than factory workshops have. I am an artist mainly doing art, so I paint guitars slowly))) I can remove all the layers and redo everything if I don't like the result, or add another operation. The process and the experience gained through it are important to me. I know exactly what result I want to get in the end. The choice of varnish is a very broad question and here a lot depends on the tasks and the result to be achieved. Historically, nitro varnish was used by Gibson in the fifties as it was the newest and cheapest varnish. For the same reason, Gibson used nylon nuts. This material was then considered a new technology and was cheaper and easier to process than bone. But bone sounds better. Nitro varnish has a number of disadvantages for factory production: it is toxic and cracks over time. Now cracks in the varnish of an electric guitar are considered a plus and for a reason. Cracked hard varnish vibrates very well with the wood and does not bind it. But cracks in production are considered a defect. Therefore, although Gibson now declares that their guitars have nitro varnish, but this varnish is very soft to avoid marriage. Polyurethane varnishes are now sometimes much harder than nitro varnishes with plasticizers and even crack in the same way. The main thing is that the layer is not thick and does not constrain the resonance. For this purpose, for violins, super-soft varnishes were used, which could vibrate with the body. If you want a good glossy look for your guitar, you can also use polyurethane like: Herlac Kontracid D 3030, But in thin layers. If you need historical correspondence and cracks in the varnish, then nitro varnish without plasticizers (or with a minimum content). If you need to do the job by hand and get a super thin sounding layer, then I recommend shellac and a French finish.
@@8BombCustom Thanks so much, really appreciate your taking the time to respond!
Do you mix the colored lacquer too? How? Is it clear nitro and some colored solvent?
Yes, I tint some of the varnish layers.
Hello thanks for sharing. I've never painted a guitar before, but recently I got a small compressor (1,5 hp /135 PSI/ 20 l. tank) I was wandering what kind of spray gun should I buy for the job? Can you please give me some advice? thanks in advance. Greetings from Colombia.
Hi. I use Devilbis SRI pro Light 0.8mm
The original 59 burst is not too pointy on the body.. it has some burst around the pickup switch area.. and become darker..
You sprayed the dark colour too pointy into the neck join..
Maybe next..you can do better..
And you doing the good job..congrats 👏
Amazing work. Very keen to give this a go. Could you recommend any sites for buying the dyes and paint ? I'm a spray painting , 15 years of doing cars but currently do some guitars. I'm wanting to do this to my les paul. Any help would be appreciated
Hi. Thank you. Try this: www.lmii.com/16-supplies-finishing
@@8BombCustom thanks so much , I really appreciate it!
@@8BombCustom Thanks just checked it out. by any chance have you ever put up a list of materials or colour ratio's etc you use , or is a secret ?
@@nikolaibarbarich7887 You will find about all the materials that I use and about all the nuances of working with them on my Patreon in the Maker level
www.patreon.com/8bombcustom
@@8BombCustom thanks heaps mate
What spray gun are you using? 0.8?
1.0
what is the regulation of the gun and compressor?
Always different. No more than 2 atmospheres come out of the compressor. On the spray gun, I adjust the air supply depending on the viscosity of the varnish and my tasks. At the entrance to the spray gun, I do not have a pressure gauge.
@@8BombCustom Thank you my friend. Your videos help me a lot
How do you make your own nitrocellulose lacquer?
It is my secret.
@@8BombCustom I’ll pay
How much do you charge for conversions?
It depends on the donor and his condition. Email me. 8bombcustom@gmail.com
May i know how much his lp and strat worth?
PM me 8bombcustom@gmail.com
Why sand between coats? Poly builds on itself, while nitro melts into itself.
This allows me to achieve a thinner and more even layer of nitro. This method is more time-consuming and longer in time, but I win in sound.
Dr. Nitro -👍🏻
Killer job.
Можно ли использовать для финиша мебельный нитролак?
Можно. Но нитролаков великое множество. Каждый имее свои наполнители и свойства. Нц 218 самый поганый. Мягкий, с большой усадкой и воняет сильно и долго.
@@8BombCustom а если посмотреть в сторону тикурилы? есть чего хорошее?
Просто я сам маляр, но автомобильный, 12 лет крашу, а хоббии гитары, есть старый эдвардс, побитый жизнью вот хочу привести его в порядок.
@@user-eu7lo9ot3w если у них есть нитро, то можно пробовать.
@@8BombCustom а какую марку вы используете?
спасибо
С переводом нету?
Этих видео с переводом нет. Но я готовлю схожие. на русском
I was taught to sand with the grain...why sand against the grain?
This is in order not to raise the pile of wood. Of course, if you sand perpendicular to the wood fibers, then the wood is eaten faster, but then the pile rises and with a thin layer of varnish it gives an undesirable effect. When sanding along the wood fibers, the pile is smoothed and the surface is perfectly smooth.
красотища слов нет,а по русски слабо обьяснить,что вы там смешивание.
Спасибо. По русски думал, но в ломину )) Могу просто лично ответить на вопросы. Может следующий видос специально для русскоязычных запишу.
@@8BombCustom Привет!!! Не появились русскоязычные видео? Спасибо!
First: congrats on effott and hard work.
Second: you should stop at 4:44. I love just subtle burst over amber. Everything beyond that ruined perect LP
ruclips.net/video/hJ3ThhZi-IY/видео.html
Thank you. I understand what you are talking about. Agree with you. This is exactly what I do, but with the expectation of a time. Aniline red fades over time. And when painting, I calculate this effect.
@@8BombCustom you're most humble and I envy you for the time and patience you have for this beautiful job. Keep on the good work and cheers!
@@8BombCustom UF bombing looks like SF!