Thank you Colin. Appreciated. There are many comments on whether to talk over the video or not in general. That's not my case. But I am glad the goal is visible from the video. Thanks
Your videos are superb, No unnecessary talking, you make them easy to follow, No stupid background music, Just excellent work. I have subscribed, Thank you
Hey Lukas! I like how you added drawing with all details and showed more closely material used in this project. I think it is easier to follow and replicate your great idea. I liked it very much 👍 Keep sharing awesome ideas
Thank you Carlo, much appreciated. Happy you liked it and found it helpful. I've been using this one for quite some time and it really helps. Stay safe.
Ciao, sono Roberto e ti ringrazio per questo video molto istruttivo e ben fatto, ancor più perchè accompagnato da un disegno quotato a cui ci si può ispirare. Grazie ancora, e vai avanti con il vento in Poppa!!! Roberto
Sounds good Richard. I was thinking about it myself but did not include it in this video. Honestly one time I almost went through since I did not have it ;)
Great job, I think one modification I would do would be to add some angle at the ends so the saw couldn't be pushed out of the bottom or top, I fear that I would accidentally run out the top!
I have noted you have inserted holes along the tract saw guide through which the saw blade runs. What is the reason for such holes? A good piece of workmanship!
Hi ZK. It would. If you're not cautious enough you can go trough. I was thinking about that but decided not to since the block would stop the saw sooner not letting me go all the way though until the end. So I wanted to keep the length of the guide but use as much out of it. Thanks!
Amazing workmanship .beautiful and wonderful . but i do not understand why you need the holes when the cut is sufficient to take the blade.Is it necessary.?
Thanks for this video, quite a brilliant layout! Wouldn't it make sense to cut the "wings" in different angles so that you have a guide for example 45 and 30 degree cuts?
In order to cut a long thin strip of wood, you might add 4 bolts each on the ends in order to raise it just above the strip. Essentially making it a 3-D adjustable version of your guide. Otherwise you would need a sub-base on every cut of long thin trims. Like to see a video tackling long trim pieces
Nice video. I liked you showing the drawing with details and also materials. One quick question - what is the thickness of the Aluminum angle you use? Thanks.
Hi! Thanks for the detailed tutorial. Shouldn't you have stops on the end? Just wondering cause I know my dumb behind would end up cutting it in two! Lol
Hey Javier, my apologies, I cant remember from the top of my head. But I added links on my website. All this information is present there. Take a look - check the page "tools I use" :)
Nice video! Sounds like a cool project for someone with a very small shop like mine (a 9' x 10' shed!). As a beginning woodworker, I was wondering what were the pros/cons of this versus all those elevated saw guides I see on RUclips? I understand they are for crosscuts, which I usually do freehanded with a speed square. Sounds to me like the saw guide you built is handier since you can take it to the workpiece. Sure sounds less clunky than the 50" aluminium clamp I am using right now.
HI Dave, thanks for the comment, I appreciate it. Those aluminium guide rails work well - I am happy with those. The circular saw slides well in these. Note - use guide rails that are lower than the circular saw when completely down. You dont want the rails to prevent the saw going completely down. What I like on this guide is that it is easily movable, you can hold it down with the handle, the saw blade does not wobble since guide rails are on both sides and the perforated circles in the cutting slot make it really easy to set up the guide according to the cutting line and just cut. I found out that few tweaks would be useful, such as - an anti slip tape on the bottom. I did not intentionally put a stopper at the end of the guide to have max cutting length. You must be careful though not to go trough ;) Are you building one? How did it turn out?
@@AllFlavorWorkshop I will build one for sure, as I found an 8 feet angled bar in a local hardware store. I will cut it in half and build a 48-inch track and tell you how it went. I have a quesiton : Why did you use nuts and bolts to attach the rails to the base plate, rather than 1/2" wood screws? Does it have something to do with accuracy? To make sure the rails stay exactly where you placed them, as opposed to maybe getting a slight shift when you drive screws through the holes?
@@davidbergewaytogo Great! Looking forward to that ;) I did not have a perforated angled bar so I found it easier to tape the bar to the wood base and screw a hole though the bar and the wood at once. I also tried using just wood screws in another video, after drilling holes just in the bar. I honestly think both work well, screws might be a bit tighter. Though I did not have a problem so far with any of these methods that the bar would be loose of would come off. It holds well. There is not much pressure from the tools after all.
I’m curious to learn how could it be modified so that the blade be tilted 45 degrees and how would that affect the aligning of the cut-line with the finished piece? I would probably have two jigs, one for straight perpendicular cut and a second jig for a 45 degree cut.
Great comment Serge! I gave it a thought as well and I dont know.. Atm making one jig for both seems a bit cumbersome. I'd probably go with 2 jigs as well. I am not sure how stable it would be having a circular saw at 90 degrees and pushing. It would probably require a different build structure. Thanks Serge. Good idea to think about.👍
@@AllFlavorWorkshop I am really curious how to approach that because I have a project with rectangular pieces that would require three edges to be cut on 45 degrees angle to form a 90 degree corner look.
@@AllFlavorWorkshop Hello, To me it doesn’t appear to be that complicated. The only problem I have is I’m not in a position to do a preliminary trial jig, not set-up yet. The current design is perfect for a perpendicular cut, the circular saw travels very well in the track guides. Now proceeding in the same faction to cut your piece with the difference being, the saw blade is tilted 45 degrees and you push the circular saw in the same manner between the track guides. Good luck. SJG
Hello again, Could the same design using the existing guide track be used to do a perpendicular cut as shown on the video and by turning around the circular saw on the same track and pushing it in the reverse direction, but that cut, the saw blade tilted on 45 degrees ? It requires thinking 😁 I’m anxious to hear from the experts .
Thank you for watching, thank you for your support! More information on the build available at: allflavorworkshop.com/easy-circular-saw-guide-rail/ ► For more details check out my website: allflavorworkshop.com/ ► ALL Woodworking Plans: allflavorworkshop.com/woodworking-plans/ 🛠 All My Tools & Gear: allflavorworkshop.com/tools-and-resources/ Also, check out the description. Subscribe not to miss anything!👍 THANKS!
Hi Brian, that small wing serves well for clamping down the jig with the piece you cut and the table. I found this so useful that as an update I'd add an additional one on the other side of the base.
Hi MaNuSia, those are "sight" holes. I cut them along the slot to see how you are cutting. It is very hande when you want to cut along a line and want to follow the cut.
Thank you for your brilliant videos! But I've failed to catch what is the exact model of Your Makita Circular saw? I'm asking 'cause there are not so many circular saws that have enough space between motor-housing and the shoe to stay beyond the aluminum L angle.
Well, I start to think that I've got it in an other great video of yours - on making a router jig. The saw seems to be Makita HS7601. Thank you! Sorry for bothering.
@@alexanderpetrov4005 That is right. I am using aluminium angles with height up to 1,4 cm. That allows for the motor to go completely down without touching the alu angle. Thanks! :)
I like this design of guide. Would it hurt if it was coated with a clear stain or some kind of weather protection? How can one obtain a dimensional sketch? Thanks in advance.
Hi Serge, thank you and thanks for the support. I dont think it would hurt. I did not coated it with anything though it is a great idea. I'd probably look for anything dedicated to plywood. I am planning on releasing my web page where you would be able to find additional information on my projects including dimensions and such. Though it is not up yet. Please bear with me and thanks! 👍
Hi Bagus, I am not sure I got your question correctly. I was taping one side of the circular saw to leave just a tiny bit of space between the circular saw and the aluminium angle. The grip of the circular saw is not that tight then and slides nicely. Was that the question? Thanks. 👍
Hi Pio. I am using few. I have few from Wolfcraft - those are really great -sturdy. Then Technocraft (a german company) and then few steel squares. Thank you, Pio for your comment and support. :)
True, this one does not have it. Possibly a stopper would be useful not to go through. Though I did not include it in this build because I wanted to be able to go as far as possible.
I built this guide and ran into a problem. I have a Ryobi CS-240 circular saw and when set to its lowest cutting depth there is no gap between the motor casing and the aluminium guide rail. The motor touches the guide rail and thus cannot slide inside the rail. Something to consider beforehand. Also, the base plate of the saw seems to stick to the aluminium and cannot slide easily. I cut a thin strip of stainless steel 1mm sheet to create a more slippery surface. Otherwise this is a great tool.
![circular saw guide track jig for precise cutting [woodworking]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ffckNf8y3mE/mqdefault.jpg)
Been looking for something like this forever. Thanks a mill
This is by far the best one of these I have seen. Much more complex but I think it would last longer as well. Thanks for the inspiration.
Thanks Skyrunner. I had another one before this one. Still using both atm and very happy with them.
best i have ever seen. Easy to do it thank you
Awesome, thank you!
Sometimes the best video tutorials dont need someone talking over everything. Great video and very easy to follow.
Thank you Colin. Appreciated. There are many comments on whether to talk over the video or not in general. That's not my case. But I am glad the goal is visible from the video. Thanks
Came here for the circular saw guide and discovered a jigsaw guide I will be building immediately! 😍
Haha, great Gary. 👍 How did it work?
@@AllFlavorWorkshop it'll be a few years before I can get the shop set up and start building stuff!
Very Clever
Brilliant! I desperately need this in my life. But before I make it I will need some other tools. Thank u so very much
Thank you Richard! :D
@@AllFlavorWorkshop you are most welcome
Thanks!
Hello George, thank you for the support! I am glad you liked it. Much appreciated 🙂
Your videos are superb, No unnecessary talking, you make them easy to follow, No stupid background music, Just excellent work. I have subscribed, Thank you
Thank you too :) I appreciate that. 🙂
I Love this Jig. Thanks for share!
Thank you too Roberto :)
It's nice
The best circular saw guide.
I will glue a sand paper to give more stability
Hey Lukas!
I like how you added drawing with all details and showed more closely material used in this project. I think it is easier to follow and replicate your great idea. I liked it very much 👍
Keep sharing awesome ideas
Thanks Boris! I appreciate it. ;)
Buen diseño. Gracias.
I suggest giving the lower surface some kind of grippy high-friction coating or covering, to help keep it from sliding around during a cut.
Hi, thanks for sharing the great project - rebuilt it today, it's a adds a lot of value to my handsaw.
Perfect Lorenz, happy to hear that. I have been using this one for many projects and it is a great helper in the shop. 👍
Grazie ....è un video semplice e soprattutto con tutte le misure ...very good good by of the Italy
Thank you Carlo, much appreciated. Happy you liked it and found it helpful. I've been using this one for quite some time and it really helps. Stay safe.
Very nice! Thanks for sharing the idea.
Thank you too Mukundanghri. 👍
Ciao, sono Roberto e ti ringrazio per questo video molto istruttivo e ben fatto, ancor più perchè accompagnato da un disegno quotato a cui ci si può ispirare. Grazie ancora, e vai avanti con il vento in Poppa!!! Roberto
Thanks Roberto, much appreciated. 😉👍
thank you
Thank you too Emad. 👍
Simple and useful 👍
I will be adding stop blocks to the end of mine.
Sounds good Richard. I was thinking about it myself but did not include it in this video. Honestly one time I almost went through since I did not have it ;)
Gracias x la sugerencia. Saludos desde Medellin Colombia
Gracias Diego. 👍
Excelente video y gracias por los planos
i like
Thanks Kris
Great, but now I need to build the jigsaw guide first!
HAHA 😉👍 Let me know how it turns out. Thank you Gianni!
love it great idea and vidio
Thank you Sean. 👍
Great job, I think one modification I would do would be to add some angle at the ends so the saw couldn't be pushed out of the bottom or top, I fear that I would accidentally run out the top!
I have noted you have inserted holes along the tract saw guide through which the saw blade runs. What is the reason for such holes? A good piece of workmanship!
Hello George, they are for better visibility when cutting the workpiece and when setting up the guide against the cut line on the workpice.
How is this different from the other track guide?
Просто знай, ты крутой чел.
Wonderful. First time I saw this project. Love to make a similar jig. Where can I get a much clear plan with dimensions.
Thanks
The german JSK koubou😉👍
Wow, Thomas, thanks! ;)
Seems like it would be easy to go off the edge of your jig without some sort of stop block.
Hi ZK. It would. If you're not cautious enough you can go trough. I was thinking about that but decided not to since the block would stop the saw sooner not letting me go all the way though until the end. So I wanted to keep the length of the guide but use as much out of it. Thanks!
👏👏👏👏👏
Thank you Francesco, happy you liked it. 👍
Amazing workmanship .beautiful and wonderful . but i do not understand why you need the holes when the cut is sufficient to take the blade.Is it necessary.?
Thank you mate! The visibility is better. Sometimes when adjusting the track along the cut line it helps adjust it easier.
Thanks for this video, quite a brilliant layout! Wouldn't it make sense to cut the "wings" in different angles so that you have a guide for example 45 and 30 degree cuts?
Beautiful work.... I'm heading to home depot 😁🏆
Hi Thomas, thank you so much. I really appreciate it. Let me know how it turns out, I'm curious 😉👍
Lol!
where do you find aluminium rails like that?
Buenas, saludos desde Oaxaca mexico, el grosor de la madera es de 15 o 18 mm? Gracias
In order to cut a long thin strip of wood, you might add 4 bolts each on the ends in order to raise it just above the strip. Essentially making it a 3-D adjustable version of your guide. Otherwise you would need a sub-base on every cut of long thin trims. Like to see a video tackling long trim pieces
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Nice video. I liked you showing the drawing with details and also materials. One quick question - what is the thickness of the Aluminum angle you use? Thanks.
Hello Ashok. I appreciate the support. The thickness is around 1,5mm. I wasn't sure at the beginning if it would be enough, but its all good. 👍
I saw one with acrylic base so you can clearly see the pencil line and the cut.
That sounds like a good idea. 👍
Hello Mr. How is called the cutter you used to drill all thru holes on saw guide??? Thank you. Name of kind of those please
Very nice and simple. I see the bolts are 4x16, which means the plywood must be pretty thin. 8mm? Is that enough ?
Hi! Thanks for the detailed tutorial. Shouldn't you have stops on the end? Just wondering cause I know my dumb behind would end up cutting it in two! Lol
Whats your sircular saw series number or makita and name of sircular saw??????
Hey Javier, my apologies, I cant remember from the top of my head. But I added links on my website. All this information is present there. Take a look - check the page "tools I use" :)
Nice video! Sounds like a cool project for someone with a very small shop like mine (a 9' x 10' shed!). As a beginning woodworker, I was wondering what were the pros/cons of this versus all those elevated saw guides I see on RUclips? I understand they are for crosscuts, which I usually do freehanded with a speed square. Sounds to me like the saw guide you built is handier since you can take it to the workpiece. Sure sounds less clunky than the 50" aluminium clamp I am using right now.
HI Dave, thanks for the comment, I appreciate it. Those aluminium guide rails work well - I am happy with those. The circular saw slides well in these. Note - use guide rails that are lower than the circular saw when completely down. You dont want the rails to prevent the saw going completely down. What I like on this guide is that it is easily movable, you can hold it down with the handle, the saw blade does not wobble since guide rails are on both sides and the perforated circles in the cutting slot make it really easy to set up the guide according to the cutting line and just cut. I found out that few tweaks would be useful, such as - an anti slip tape on the bottom. I did not intentionally put a stopper at the end of the guide to have max cutting length. You must be careful though not to go trough ;) Are you building one? How did it turn out?
@@AllFlavorWorkshop I will build one for sure, as I found an 8 feet angled bar in a local hardware store. I will cut it in half and build a 48-inch track and tell you how it went.
I have a quesiton : Why did you use nuts and bolts to attach the rails to the base plate, rather than 1/2" wood screws? Does it have something to do with accuracy? To make sure the rails stay exactly where you placed them, as opposed to maybe getting a slight shift when you drive screws through the holes?
@@davidbergewaytogo Great! Looking forward to that ;) I did not have a perforated angled bar so I found it easier to tape the bar to the wood base and screw a hole though the bar and the wood at once. I also tried using just wood screws in another video, after drilling holes just in the bar. I honestly think both work well, screws might be a bit tighter. Though I did not have a problem so far with any of these methods that the bar would be loose of would come off. It holds well. There is not much pressure from the tools after all.
I’m curious to learn how could it be modified so that the blade be tilted 45 degrees and how would that affect the aligning of the cut-line with the finished piece? I would probably have two jigs, one for straight perpendicular cut and a second jig for a 45 degree cut.
Great comment Serge! I gave it a thought as well and I dont know.. Atm making one jig for both seems a bit cumbersome. I'd probably go with 2 jigs as well. I am not sure how stable it would be having a circular saw at 90 degrees and pushing. It would probably require a different build structure. Thanks Serge. Good idea to think about.👍
@@AllFlavorWorkshop I am really curious how to approach that because I have a project with rectangular pieces that would require three edges to be cut on 45 degrees angle to form a 90 degree corner look.
@@SJG-96 Ha, interesting project ;)
@@AllFlavorWorkshop Hello,
To me it doesn’t appear to be that complicated. The only problem I have is I’m not in a position to do a preliminary trial jig, not set-up yet.
The current design is perfect for a perpendicular cut, the circular saw travels very well in the track guides. Now proceeding in the same faction to cut your piece with the difference being, the saw blade is tilted 45 degrees and you push the circular saw in the same manner between the track guides.
Good luck.
SJG
Hello again,
Could the same design using the existing guide track be used to do a perpendicular cut as shown on the video and by turning around the circular saw on the same track and pushing it in the reverse direction, but that cut, the saw blade tilted on 45 degrees ?
It requires thinking 😁
I’m anxious to hear from the experts .
Question: How many teeth is the blade of the saw? Greetings from Guatemala. 🇬🇹
Hello Carlos, I am nor sure but it is a ripping blade and I assume something around 25 teeth.
@@AllFlavorWorkshop Thank you very much for your answer.
Thank you for watching, thank you for your support! More information on the build available at: allflavorworkshop.com/easy-circular-saw-guide-rail/
► For more details check out my website: allflavorworkshop.com/
► ALL Woodworking Plans: allflavorworkshop.com/woodworking-plans/
🛠 All My Tools & Gear: allflavorworkshop.com/tools-and-resources/
Also, check out the description. Subscribe not to miss anything!👍 THANKS!
Curious to know what the function of the small wing, 3cm x 10cm is for.
Hi Brian, that small wing serves well for clamping down the jig with the piece you cut and the table. I found this so useful that as an update I'd add an additional one on the other side of the base.
For what reason is the protruding bump on the bottom right hand corner of the guide rail there for????? Please.
Hi Gerry, that "lip" is for clamping down the saw track to a bench or the piece of wood you're cutting. Works quite well. 👍
Great video! What are you using to enlarge the holes for the screw head?
Thank you Mitja, I am using a countersink. I believe the one you see on the video is more for metals like aluminium but works also fine for plywood.
Thank you, which model is your Makita??
Hola Juan. muchas gracias 😉👍 My Makita model is - HS7611 - 190 mm (Europian labeling, might be different elsewhere).
@@AllFlavorWorkshop thank you👍
In the upper end there is a section of 10 cm x 3 cm, what use is it?
Could you please send me the product of the two terminals ....thanks
Which one do you mean?
why need holes along the track?
Hi MaNuSia, those are "sight" holes. I cut them along the slot to see how you are cutting. It is very hande when you want to cut along a line and want to follow the cut.
How much is the size of the angle? The "L"size
Thank you for your brilliant videos! But I've failed to catch what is the exact model of Your Makita Circular saw? I'm asking 'cause there are not so many circular saws that have enough space between motor-housing and the shoe to stay beyond the aluminum L angle.
Well, I start to think that I've got it in an other great video of yours - on making a router jig. The saw seems to be Makita HS7601. Thank you! Sorry for bothering.
@@alexanderpetrov4005 That is right. I am using aluminium angles with height up to 1,4 cm. That allows for the motor to go completely down without touching the alu angle. Thanks! :)
@@AllFlavorWorkshop Great! Thank you once again!
I like this design of guide. Would it hurt if it was coated with a clear stain or some kind of weather protection?
How can one obtain a dimensional sketch?
Thanks in advance.
Hi Serge, thank you and thanks for the support. I dont think it would hurt. I did not coated it with anything though it is a great idea. I'd probably look for anything dedicated to plywood. I am planning on releasing my web page where you would be able to find additional information on my projects including dimensions and such. Though it is not up yet. Please bear with me and thanks! 👍
Thanks for your reply, keep me on your mailing list.
@@SJG-96 Thanks Serge
Tell me friend, why the holes? What are they for?
too short
Cikularsaw tepe?
Hi Bagus, I am not sure I got your question correctly. I was taping one side of the circular saw to leave just a tiny bit of space between the circular saw and the aluminium angle. The grip of the circular saw is not that tight then and slides nicely. Was that the question? Thanks. 👍
What brand are your engineers squares? Can you post a link to them please? Brilliant video. Well done.
Hi Pio. I am using few. I have few from Wolfcraft - those are really great -sturdy. Then Technocraft (a german company) and then few steel squares. Thank you, Pio for your comment and support. :)
Плохо, что нет ограничителя движения Макиты вперед, чуть зазевался и распилил это устройство пополам.....
True, this one does not have it. Possibly a stopper would be useful not to go through. Though I did not include it in this build because I wanted to be able to go as far as possible.
I built this guide and ran into a problem. I have a Ryobi CS-240 circular saw and when set to its lowest cutting depth there is no gap between the motor casing and the aluminium guide rail. The motor touches the guide rail and thus cannot slide inside the rail. Something to consider beforehand. Also, the base plate of the saw seems to stick to the aluminium and cannot slide easily. I cut a thin strip of stainless steel 1mm sheet to create a more slippery surface. Otherwise this is a great tool.
Really nice video and product but you are missing the "Hey what's up dudes" at the start and the overly loud , ridiculously unnecessary music.
Good idea but stupid show because didn’t tell how to cut length and width , just measured and cut by yourself
the silence is deafening
Same video than dekay's crafts
Yeah you should always tighten stuff down on your circular saw with a claw hammer 🔨 All the pros are doing that now. Cringe 😬
You talk way too much 😂
Thanks 🙂