Video TOC: @0:08 - Intro to what this mod is all about @5:00 - The Actual mod begins @14:00 - A Brief Test Drive *without* Body @17:00 - A Brief Test Drive *with* Body @18:05 - Recap and Ramble
This video sort of showcases what the mod ended up doing for it. I did the original mod video with stock shocks. Once I saw how much it changed, I swapped my RC4WD Old Man Emu shocks over from the 1:18 D90 I had to this one. I think it helped a ton. ruclips.net/video/rfZKLluAwNk/видео.html
That’s really not bad being that it’s a MN 90 esc/transmitter! I’m going to try this with my WLP’s I tried it on my C-24 KM and had to cut some of the bed away but I’m sure there is a way around that by just getting different shocks. These are all fun no matter from a WLP/MN , where I started and now I own a few RC4WD’s Those WLP & MN metal axles are where I figure out how to shim pinions and about the axle world, kinda get to move on for a bit learning about shocks set ups and articulation. Awesome hobby and with Chanel’s like yours Mark, things start to click for me! Thanks a bunch for your time!
It's definitely got plenty of current to run the motor. And the battery life from the 2S LiPo is making the thing run for hours on a single charge. These tiny motors in the 1:18 are crazy efficient with the gearing of the transmission. This mod was everything to me, on a ton of levels. I sort of felt like I had wasted money on these little rigs because they just didn't perform. Not so, now. One of the best mods I did for the MN/WPL D90 was to change the bearings in the differentials. While the upgrade axles come with decent metal bearings, they weren't as nice as the Fast Eddy bearings that I had laying around that miraculously fit. So I swapped out the pinion bearings on both axles and they're so smooth now. It took all of the crazy chatter out of the front end because of the bearing slop. So, if you want to dig deep, it's there! But, keep in mind, it's also so frustrating at times with WPL and Mn stuff. You can spend forever working on something and ten minutes later something else breaks. A test of a good rig is being able to take it off the shelf, run it and put it back and repeat that without having to bench it all the time. It takes forever to get some rigs to that point. Looking at this week, I should be able to sit down and do a video covering some suspension mods.👍
Ice dude never had one but angling shocks always great mod. Yeah looks like great little rig!!! Always go used bro! Hard for me to take the mini crawlers out when they get stuck on twigs etc lol!! ✌️🍻from Maine!
This chassis has virtually zero upgrades available for the suspension and this video is probably a first in the history of the Gelande II 1/18 platform. Seriously, there is nothing out there about these except stuff from when they first hit the market about 5 years ago. A few review and running videos but that's it. They're fun little trucks to run on scale terrain but you can't bring 1/10 expectations to a 1/18 scaler. I've bought both used and new trucks in the past and every one them had their quirks.
Would it still be a Gelande II 1:18 scale rig? It sounds like a hybrid. How does the Jeep body mount back onto it? I'm all set with this Jeep the way it is. It crawls like MFer now. I fixed all the issues I was having with this mod.
I put the shocks from my Hobby plus 1/18 scale rc and I like it much better with those even though they are not oil shocks. I keep having a problem with wearing out my pinion gear on mine. Any suggestions for this issue. I switched to a nylon pinion gear and it lasted about the same as the brass one. Thanks for the video.
Shortly after this video, I switched to the set of Old Man Emu shocks that I had on a D90. A little more travel than the stock black ones. Re: the pinion gear issue - be sure the mesh isn't too tight nor too loose. Either way will cause unnecessary wear. I just wish it was possible to fit an SCX24 gearbox in these and use those instead. Because, I doubt there will ever exist an all metal transmission for the Gelande II 1/18. I've personally gone through 2 slip clutches but those were in my oldest 88T motors/gearboxes. The newest one I have is much better it seems. But I think all it takes is one mishap and it's a done deal. Same with the gear issue you're having. If it jumps gears once, it's all over, those teeth are now worn and will continue to wear even faster at that point. I really try not to force it when it's bound up. That's the quickest way to costing money there is.
@@VermontScaleCustoms I have thought of doing the same thing, putting a different transmission in . I was thinking of trying my trans from my Hobby plus 1/24 crawler since I don't use it very much. To many Rc's not enough hands or time.
Yo! hoping you can help me out... I've used the 1/18 RC4WD axles on a kitbash. My question is about the front axle steering. I was shocked to see how little steering angle it had. I mean, it is BAD. I was wondering if that is normal? Is there a mod that I'm missing?
Once upon a time, I had a video up that showed how to grind off the rear steering knuckles from the C-hubs. But, since I didn't want to be *that* responsible for steering people down a path of some irreversible mod that didn't end up adding much, I took the vid down. After removing the rear knuckles, I took a dremel and moved the steering from full lock to full lock, seeing where contact was being made on the main part of the axle and then ground a little away each time until it seemed like I had gained a couple of degrees on both sides. It's a fragile spot, so you have to take it easy. It was enough of a PITA that I never did it to my Gelande II D90. Better shocks, turn up the ATV on the transmitter as well. If you watch some of the other videos of this Jeep, you'll see it does what it does for how it's set up. I'm always endlessly impressed with it.
@@VermontScaleCustoms Thanks for the reply. And for getting me the answer I was looking for... that the result was minimal. I was just getting ready to grind into it. I bought these for my kitbash FJ so it's a mix of SCX24 and RC4WD. I was shocked how little the steering angle was but thought maybe it'd be fine once it was assembled.... sadly, no. This is my first experience with the 1/18 yota axles. Compared to every other axle in this size and smaller, it's been the biggest disappointment. They look great, but if I can't turn, then who cares. I also was shocked to see that the top screw on the front knuckles actually make contact with the drive shaft if they are fully threaded. Such a poor design. I also have a stripped knuckle out of the box. They are sending me a new set, maybe these just got overlooked in the quality check. I have a lot of their gear so I'm not knocking them... just the 1/18 front axle.
![Chris Langan - The Interview THEY Didn't Want You To See - CTMU [Full Version; Timestamps]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/9miVG2xT5jY/mqdefault.jpg)
Video TOC:
@0:08 - Intro to what this mod is all about
@5:00 - The Actual mod begins
@14:00 - A Brief Test Drive *without* Body
@17:00 - A Brief Test Drive *with* Body
@18:05 - Recap and Ramble
if you put that in the description it will show it on the timeline of your video, Leave out the @ tho
Interesting! I need to look at my chassis again, clearly. 👍
This video sort of showcases what the mod ended up doing for it. I did the original mod video with stock shocks. Once I saw how much it changed, I swapped my RC4WD Old Man Emu shocks over from the 1:18 D90 I had to this one. I think it helped a ton. ruclips.net/video/rfZKLluAwNk/видео.html
That’s really not bad being that it’s a MN 90 esc/transmitter! I’m going to try this with my WLP’s I tried it on my C-24 KM and had to cut some of the bed away but I’m sure there is a way around that by just getting different shocks. These are all fun no matter from a WLP/MN , where I started and now I own a few RC4WD’s Those WLP & MN metal axles are where I figure out how to shim pinions and about the axle world, kinda get to move on for a bit learning about shocks set ups and articulation. Awesome hobby and with Chanel’s like yours Mark, things start to click for me!
Thanks a bunch for your time!
It's definitely got plenty of current to run the motor. And the battery life from the 2S LiPo is making the thing run for hours on a single charge. These tiny motors in the 1:18 are crazy efficient with the gearing of the transmission. This mod was everything to me, on a ton of levels. I sort of felt like I had wasted money on these little rigs because they just didn't perform. Not so, now.
One of the best mods I did for the MN/WPL D90 was to change the bearings in the differentials. While the upgrade axles come with decent metal bearings, they weren't as nice as the Fast Eddy bearings that I had laying around that miraculously fit. So I swapped out the pinion bearings on both axles and they're so smooth now. It took all of the crazy chatter out of the front end because of the bearing slop. So, if you want to dig deep, it's there! But, keep in mind, it's also so frustrating at times with WPL and Mn stuff. You can spend forever working on something and ten minutes later something else breaks. A test of a good rig is being able to take it off the shelf, run it and put it back and repeat that without having to bench it all the time. It takes forever to get some rigs to that point.
Looking at this week, I should be able to sit down and do a video covering some suspension mods.👍
And thanks for YOUR time! It's great having the interaction with everyone and I do enjoy helping everyone out! So, thanks!
best driving and control champ....keep going🏆
Yeah, it's a great instructional video.
This is siiick 👍🏿👍🏿💪🏿💪🏿
Thank you. Real work getting done here! These little trucks are badass. Trying to push these past where they are is tough.✌️
Ice dude never had one but angling shocks always great mod.
Yeah looks like great little rig!!!
Always go used bro!
Hard for me to take the mini crawlers out when they get stuck on twigs etc lol!!
✌️🍻from Maine!
This chassis has virtually zero upgrades available for the suspension and this video is probably a first in the history of the Gelande II 1/18 platform. Seriously, there is nothing out there about these except stuff from when they first hit the market about 5 years ago. A few review and running videos but that's it.
They're fun little trucks to run on scale terrain but you can't bring 1/10 expectations to a 1/18 scaler. I've bought both used and new trucks in the past and every one them had their quirks.
nice video, great details,
These Gelande II 1/18 rigs are the forgotten child of the RC world.
cool vid! big like!! 👍👍👍
Thank you!!!🤙🏻
Hey man send me a pm I got a 3d printed bouncer chassis I'm working on that fixes all the issues on this thing,
Would it still be a Gelande II 1:18 scale rig? It sounds like a hybrid. How does the Jeep body mount back onto it?
I'm all set with this Jeep the way it is. It crawls like MFer now. I fixed all the issues I was having with this mod.
@@VermontScaleCustoms it probably won't crawl the same because of the weight difference. Plastic vs metal.
Very nice I subscribe
Thank you and thanks for the sub!
I put the shocks from my Hobby plus 1/18 scale rc and I like it much better with those even though they are not oil shocks. I keep having a problem with wearing out my pinion gear on mine. Any suggestions for this issue. I switched to a nylon pinion gear and it lasted about the same as the brass one. Thanks for the video.
Shortly after this video, I switched to the set of Old Man Emu shocks that I had on a D90. A little more travel than the stock black ones. Re: the pinion gear issue - be sure the mesh isn't too tight nor too loose. Either way will cause unnecessary wear.
I just wish it was possible to fit an SCX24 gearbox in these and use those instead. Because, I doubt there will ever exist an all metal transmission for the Gelande II 1/18. I've personally gone through 2 slip clutches but those were in my oldest 88T motors/gearboxes. The newest one I have is much better it seems. But I think all it takes is one mishap and it's a done deal. Same with the gear issue you're having. If it jumps gears once, it's all over, those teeth are now worn and will continue to wear even faster at that point. I really try not to force it when it's bound up. That's the quickest way to costing money there is.
@@VermontScaleCustoms thanks for the help.
@@VermontScaleCustoms I have thought of doing the same thing, putting a different transmission in . I was thinking of trying my trans from my Hobby plus 1/24 crawler since I don't use it very much. To many Rc's not enough hands or time.
Yo! hoping you can help me out... I've used the 1/18 RC4WD axles on a kitbash. My question is about the front axle steering. I was shocked to see how little steering angle it had. I mean, it is BAD. I was wondering if that is normal? Is there a mod that I'm missing?
Once upon a time, I had a video up that showed how to grind off the rear steering knuckles from the C-hubs. But, since I didn't want to be *that* responsible for steering people down a path of some irreversible mod that didn't end up adding much, I took the vid down.
After removing the rear knuckles, I took a dremel and moved the steering from full lock to full lock, seeing where contact was being made on the main part of the axle and then ground a little away each time until it seemed like I had gained a couple of degrees on both sides. It's a fragile spot, so you have to take it easy.
It was enough of a PITA that I never did it to my Gelande II D90. Better shocks, turn up the ATV on the transmitter as well. If you watch some of the other videos of this Jeep, you'll see it does what it does for how it's set up. I'm always endlessly impressed with it.
@@VermontScaleCustoms Thanks for the reply. And for getting me the answer I was looking for... that the result was minimal. I was just getting ready to grind into it.
I bought these for my kitbash FJ so it's a mix of SCX24 and RC4WD. I was shocked how little the steering angle was but thought maybe it'd be fine once it was assembled.... sadly, no. This is my first experience with the 1/18 yota axles. Compared to every other axle in this size and smaller, it's been the biggest disappointment. They look great, but if I can't turn, then who cares. I also was shocked to see that the top screw on the front knuckles actually make contact with the drive shaft if they are fully threaded. Such a poor design. I also have a stripped knuckle out of the box. They are sending me a new set, maybe these just got overlooked in the quality check. I have a lot of their gear so I'm not knocking them... just the 1/18 front axle.