Thank you for your very helpful video. I have self serviced my Simplicity snowblower every year since I bought it used in 1993 but never checked the auger gear housing. I'll be referring to your video when I work on mine this spring before storing it.
Very nice piece, well done. Just bought my first snowblower MTD 24 two stage USED. Came from a guy who worked on small engines his whole life, but I've learned a couple tips from you and others, I will be looking into. Your video will make that stuff easier and show me what to look for. Thanks.
As a new snow blower owner I am very happy I found this video my snowblower is quite old and made by a company that’s no longer in business and may need quite a few of these point looked after
I watched another video on this where the guy said that when you removed the screw on the top of the gearbox the oil should be touching the threads on the screw, as if the screw was a dipstick. That would grossly overfill the gearbox. Your procedure is right on. Thanks, I'm glad I decide to check another video besides his.
Using grease on that Axle shaft is really important, tried taking the wheels off an almost identical model to his in the video on a 2 year old unit, and it was rusted and it was hard to get off. Put grease on , now it comes off and on easy. Great Video, You helped me out big time. Thanks.
Saw another snow blower maintenance vid and mechanic said the preferred grease for the two axils is anti seize. However he said nothing about a key on the axils. I gotta check that out. I have an Ariens Snow Tek.
@@michaelprosperity3420 Right on!! We still have our garden tractor we bought used in around 1991. Don't use it as much anymore, mainly just a few times a year to haul the old garden trailer. No smoke, cuts as nice as my newer Cub.
I’m a Master Tech at a Powersports Dealership. Been doing it 37 Years. I’ve found that: Customers are their own worst enemies😂 I try my best to educate EVERY Customer on Proper Maintenance, and the Money Proper Maintenance will save them down the road...they think I’m “ripping them off” and wanting to upsell them on expensive Products and “unneeded” Service. The next year, they bring their new machine in because it won’t start and they want it covered under Warranty....they then get extremely pissed when I tell them that Warranty does NOT cover Carburetor/Fuel related issues. I then remind them that these maintenance items were discussed with them. Moral of the Story: DO your maintenance, it WILL save you money.
Some good tips, I just got my Toro 521 ready for the winter and went around and lubricated and adjusting everything that moves but I see a few places I missed 🤔 thanks 👍 good video ✌️
Very good. I particularly like your dipstick. I also do the following: 1. Lubricate the bolts holding the skid shoes and scraper blade; 2. Lubricate the various moving parts of the chute; 3. Oil any cables and controls, moving them through their extremes to distribute the lubricant; 4. Adjust the height of the skid shoes and then the scraper blade. 5. Check and possibly replace the spark plug.
Very good and helpful video. Ariens specifies Stens Hi-Temp grease for lubrication, which only seems to be available in mini tubes and a three pack will cost you $15. I looked at the data sheet for the Stens and it is interchangeable with "Red 'N' Tacky" grease. Lucas "Red 'N' Tacky" is available at Walmart for $5 for a full size tube, so that's what I use.
That is the same as I use for mine. As I figured if it’s good enough for the heavy equipment our company uses on a daily basis that sees some heavy duty work conditions each and every single day, it’s good for use on the snowblower.
Excellent tutorial. I just bought my Ariens 28 Deluxe two days ago and this will help me keep it lubricated and in service during the winter seasons. BTW, I live in Connecticut too.
Oh so you had to break it in a few days ago. The wind was a killer. The 28 is a good machine, but the one I had was a little under powered for the end of road piles. So I bought the 30 in platinum shown in the video. That one has a little bigger engine and hand warmers which I desire now. On other videos I also use a 36" pro. The 36" is my primary and the 30" is my backup if I break down. I'm too old to hand shovel. LOL
@@007connecticut Yeah, I had that same issue at the salted snow piles at the end of my driveway. What I learned to do was feather the clutch handle and ease into the snow piles slowly. That worked like a charm. I was looking at the 30 too but the drastic cost increase was a no go for me. If anything, I might have gone with the next step-up which would have been the 28" Deluxe SHO model which was about $150 bucks more.
@@journeyon1983 Yes your machine will be just fine, just listen to the engine if it bogs down just let off on the forward speed. Your machine sure beats shoveling by hand! Service it in march like how I shown in the video, & drain the gas (run the carb dry). It will last you 20 years or more.
@@007connecticut I sure want to thank you for the tips. That's good to know that my Ariens will last a long time. Before this, I had a Craftsman 48" snow thrower attachment for my garden tractor. The problem with that is it was really heavy and would dig into the ground and throw dirt & rocks. It would also leave deep grooves in the ground where the shoes glide over. I certainly loved the wide swath of snow it would throw but it didn't do anywhere as good as my new Ariens 28 Deluxe . My gawd what a difference. When I'm done, the snow looks professionally plowed. I really love it all the way around. The main thing now is to get familiar with it service-wise. That's why I've been watching videos like yours, when it comes to maintenance. I'd like to keep this in tip top condition for every winter season.
Nice vid, I used a bolt that I just set in the hole with the length being the minimum amount of gear oil that's needed so if it is touching the end it is good. That bolt for gear oil has a torque spec also just like the shear pins. After greasing shaft you should take pins out to spin shafts to spread grease and reinstall pins and torque to spec. Gear on inside near chain takes grease not oil. Grease fitting is not for shifter it is for small gear that meshes with big gear assembly inside and should be greased with bottom cover off to make sure enough grease is put in and that none falls were it is not suppose to be. You failed to grease axle bushings and take axle out or atleast right side that is a two peice axle and needs grease on the inside or if it seizes together you may never get axle fully out. Very simple and quick to take entire two peice axle out, that way you can grease axle bushing area the axle sits in and slides thru.
@@mikesecondo2254 This machine is 5 years old. I used it full time for 3 years and rolled it over to a back up machine. I have a 36" hydro pro as my primary machine now. (I run 2 blowers as I don't like hand shoveling any longer) Both Ariens machines have a lot of common parts makes my parts box smaller.
No, it's fairly straightforward. Remove the 2-4 bolts that hold the 2 sections together support the handle bars with a trash can or wall so it don't lay over too far and separate the pieces ( housing and engine assemblies) of course disconnect the chute crank prior to separating the sections. Belt replacement is easy at this point No adjustments are needed inside. If the tension is off on the new belt, you adjust it on the cable at the rear of the machine.
May I offer a suggestion. You said you use gas to clean the drive disk. Gas is a great solvent/cleaner but it will leave the slightest of (oily) film. I use brake cleaner sprayed on a paper towel for the job. Leaves the drive disk squeaky clean. DO NOT spray brake cleaner in the inside of the machine. Brake cleaner can be hard on the rubber on the friction wheel and paint.
That style just has little stubby auger shafts, that's why the brace is there and the shear pins and zerks are located where they are. You can also screw a plastic bag under the gas cap before tipping it up.
So well engineered in so many different details of the machine. And yet they give very precise Auger gearbox oil level requirement and NO DIPSTICK?!? Someone at Ariens needs a "time-out" in the corner for neglecting their homework. Great idea on the home made dipstick!
I think I used aluminum that was for grounding electrical boxes (or maybe an antenna). It's heavy gauge wire left on a nail in the garage. I use it for various things, painting small parts mostly. Cool, paint the handle orange so it's looks factory. Now your neighbor will want one... ;)
Nice run through on simple maintenance that will extend the life of the snowblower. Might want to consider adding a bit on how to replace and adjust the wear shoes, especially to prevent wearing the bottom edge of the case.
I don't use shoes as I put together a set of "wheels" out of sealed bearings. They are a little slow to fabricate but they are good for my lifetime. The scraper bar don't wear down either because the bucket height never changes, just rolls along. See here ruclips.net/video/VG1giQ0heaY/видео.html I see they sell them made out of plastic now. Got to give the Chinese credit for running with a good idea. LOL
the under the drive disk there is a grease fitting for the sealed bearing that holds the drive disk shaft. that bearing needs a single hand pump of wheel bearing grease. do not over grease. ensure and leaked grease is wiped away. each season it is helpful to grease the skid bolts, auger shear pin bolts and auger shear pin drive shaft bolt threads (this one is on the shaft coming out from the engine to the worm gear in the auger gear box). which makes them rust free and easier to remove.
Another item that we may want to do is pull the plastic drive belt cover to see the auger and transmission drive belts' wear conditions and clearance play.
Draining the oil. In this video, the plug came off very easy. Ariens advice is to use a 2nd wrench to stabilize the tube (there is a milled flat part on the tube for this purpose), so it doesn't twist within the engine block. This is especially important if the drain plug is stuck more firmly.
The oil plug is a typical threaded pipe (pipe thread which is slightly tapered) and a square cap. I don't put the square cap tight after my first oil change as you see the wrench I use. Use a vise grip on the pipe if it wants to unscrew with the cap. There are no flats on the pipe. If the pipe turns it's ok to tighten it a little more. Then when you put the cap back with a wrench, don't tighten it too much, so next time you remove the cap the pipe will stay tight in it's place.
Must just be a different model. My advice was derived from the official Ariens Channel, on the video titled "Preparing Your Ariens Sno Thro for the Snow Season". It can be seen around the 1:30 mark. But on a model like yours that does NOT have a wrenching spot manufactured on the drain tube, your method sounds perfect. Thanks for the prompt reply.
There's a great video and I really appreciate it I don't own this brand but mine looks very similar just got it the other day and I think you gave me a lot of tips I know I will need to check my own but what oil do you use in the auger Reservoir thanks Simon
Old or new, when greasing the augers, I would remove the shear pins and spin the augers a few times to distribute the grease. The grease in this location is acting as "anti-seize" should you break a shear pin while operating the machine. If the augers cannot rotate on the inner drive axle [with a broken shear pin] because they are seized-up with rust, etc. the gears in the auger gear case would likely get damaged.
@@donc8879 Most general purpose grease will work fine for this purpose. Most mechanics also recommend taking the wheels off and greasing the axles for the same reason. The wheels can get rusted to the axles and become impossible to remove.
Really excellent video on the details and the stripe by step instructions. Much appreciated. I have a question if someone can please answer, when i get a new craftsman 204CC snowblower, i assume i don't have to do any greasing or putting lubricating, and that it comes fully maintained for the first season - right? Thanks
If the dealer puts it together you will be fine for the first season. It's greased at the factory also. But at least check the auger fluid level. That's easy to check while you check out your new machine. In the spring follow my method of service and that blower will be around in 20 years.
Loved your video. I just bought an ariens snow blower, deluxe 28. As I watched your video, I was trying to take note of the oils and grease you use. Could you please tell me what kind of lithium grease you used on the HEX shaft where the gears and chain are. It looked like you squeezed it on your finger from a toothpaste type tube. Thank you. Dan
I got a brand new Ariens Classic 24. Do I need to do any lubrication on the machine before use, or does it got all the lubrication it needs at the factory? I have checked that motor oil and gearcase oil is ok.
Yes I used it about 4 years. It cleaned many heavy snow falls of nearly 2 feet because of the Noreaster storms on the east coast.. That means the snow was over the bucket 3-4 times a year! It's stored in a heated garage (about 40F) so the snow and ice melt off it after use. In the spring I wash it well so I remove the salt from the road. Service it at the end of season yearly around March / April. Last year I put 2 tire tubes in the tires as I was getting flats. The rims may be getting a little corroded on the beads I guess. It holds air now. This machine was placed as a back up last year, as I bought a 36" machine. Last year we got only a few inches of snow for the first time in 10 years . I think the 36" machine is making mother nature back off. LOL I don't clean crushed rock / gravel so that's why the paint looks good inside the chute and bucket. thanks for watching.
Yes your correct, but this is a Briggs engine. Briggs wants you to screw the dipstick in. My Kawasaki (zero turn) and Honda (leaf blower) engines are like you say. I hate when they do that...Thanks for watching!
Heavy Duty Lithium Based Grease Is A Water Repellent, Extreme Pressure Formula (nlgi Grade 2). Use In Wheel Bearings, Chassis Lubrication And All Ball And Roller Bearings On Ariens Snow Blowers And Lawn Mowers.
thanks great video . one question. if your auger gear box is low in oil what kind of oil would you put in the auger gear box ....some people say put 0-0 grease and some say a sae 85-95 oil thanks in advance
I would use the Ariens recommended fluid. That 1 bottle will last you for years. They use a synthetic fluid I don't know the viscosity. Thanks for watching the video!
To Keep the body/ bolts/ drive shaft/ Tines Rust Free ----- Get one of these in an aerosol can : -Krown T40 -Rust Check (red) or Rust Check Coat & Protect (green can ) -Fluid Film -Rust Cure Formula 3000
Great video, thanks. I have two questions: How did you know where to make your mark for the gearbox oil level? What type of oil did you use to put on the chain?
In the owners manual it explains the at least level and the max filled level from on top of the gear box. So I filed the marks on my custom made dip stick. One line is minimum level and the other mark is maximum filled level. Why don't they make a dip stick?? And I think of the chain like a bicycle chain so I just use motor oil on that. It won't rust up if that's oiled. Thanks for watching.
What do you use to lubricate the chute lock, chute lever & plate? I have a 926LE, and it has a pivoting lock that catches a gear for chute rotation. It’s NOT the best design, I am sure it looked good on paper. Please advise. Great instructional video!
I have not experienced icing in the chute with the new Ariens machines. Perhaps they still have paint in them so it helps the snow not collect. Or maybe they have a tighter fit on the impeller? Some guys use car wax, others pam kitchen no stick spray and you use silicone. Lastly some people use rubber floor mats or tires sidewalls to make an impeller kit to help throw the snow out of there more efficiently. All good ideas if your having trouble in this area.
I also use car wax on the impeller housing and the chute works great snow and ice slide right off I also wax all the painted surfaced on the whole machine to protect it from salt and water damage it works. I had two snow throwers the first was a Craftsman that is 15yrs old which I gave to my son and It still looks new . the other is an Ariens and I do the same and it also looks new I know its a little over the top but when I am finished snow blowing I hit the machine with compressed air to remove most of the snow on it so the water does not have a place to lay . Remember Protect your investment I was not free you paid good money for it
I just got one of these after having a single stage Honda for many years. One thing I like about the Honda is that you can drain the gas tank by loosening a screw in the bottom of the carburetor bowl for storage. Does the Arien’s have something like that? I haven’t found it yet, but haven’t taken any of the covers/tins off yet.
I think the 420cc pro machine has the screw on the bowl. An easy way around this approach is to run the engine until it's starving for fuel, then turn on the choke full. Run it until it dies, then try and restart it. If it won't restart your sure the carb is dry. Today's ethanol fuel is really bad for rusting carbs out over the summer months. Had it happen to me so I just make sure the bowl is dry before I store it from here on.
007connecticut thanks. I agree about the ethanol gas and as such, I only use ethanol free gas in my small engines. I’m fortunate to have a gas station not far away that sells ethanol free 87. Thanks for the video...it was helpful.
@@flyjarrett You are so lucky! I use blue stabil (marine grade for ethanol fuel and I add red bottled HEET to suck any moisture out of the fuel. I have eight 5 gallon gas cans which I tag with the date and rotate within 6 months for my generator use. If I have any fuel over 6 months old if not burned in my small engines I give it to my truck. I only use 93 octane. Since this method no more issues. People say you have 8 gas cans full of fuel? I answer if I lose power the gas station will also have no electricity so that's why I keep some in the shed. I'm going to horde toilet paper next LOL
Thanks very much for this. I'm curious about the dipstick for checking the gearbox oil. How did you know where to file it so it would mark the area from 2 5/8 to 2 3/8"? What is that distance from the bend to the file marks? Maybe you already have a "plan" for it, and if you do, I'd like to see it. Thanks again. I learned a LOT watching this.
I found a piece of aluminum wire and bent it so when I lay it on top of the gear box it lays flat as the wire drops down into the oil. Then I measured from the bottom of the wire (where is sits on top of the gear box) down and I used a sharpie and marked off my full level and my low level. I then filed between these marks so when I check the oil the oil should be on the filed portion of the stick. I then painted the wire orange so know what machine it's for. The measurements are located in your owners manual. I don't know why Ariens is so anal in this measurement yet they don't provide a tool to check it. Well I made a simple dip stick to check mine. You could use a short screw driver and use that as a gauge as well. Thanks for watching.
@@007connecticut I greatly appreciate your taking the time to explain this a bit further for me, as it will give me the confidence to make one for myself. I'll try the screwdriver test first, just to get a feel for it, and go from there. With this break in the weather I'm looking forward to giving my Ariens a good make-over!
Pure curiosity, what do you have your scraper bar and shoes set at before scraper bar hits surface? I think Ariens recommends 1/8 of an inch? I used a broken wooden yard stick to set mine which is closer to 1/4 inch. Maybe too much because I also use a shovel to get closer to my driveway and sidewalks. Thanks, Don Zelmer from Milwaukee
I use 4 paint sticks. I place 2 paint sticks stacked together under the bucket on left and right sides . Then I adjust the shoes (or in my case the wheels) down to the floor, This works for me very well on a paved driveway. It cleans the snow just about clean so if the sun comes out the pavement is wet and it's dry the next day if the weather warms to about freezing.
007connecticut Yes, I forgot you have ballbearing wheels. I did watch your video on that as well. Good idea, but too much trouble for me. My Ariens snow blower is seven years old and a year or two ago, I just flipped shoes around. This season, I bought new shoes and scraper bar and replaced late October. Thanks for the great tips. I saved your video to my computer to help me remember your tips. Every season I do grease the auger and take out shear pins to spin auger. Last October I also took off wheels and greased the shafts like you did. I have a Briggs and Stratton 205cc engine for my Ariens Compact. I believe in preventive measures before trouble starts during winter months.
No you didn't need to drain and refill, just keep an eye on the level, add a little if you need to. This is one area no one checks, then one season the gears are wrecked and the machine won't clear any more snow. It's a expensive repair that's easily prevented
Your video is awesome, so clear and precise. I was unable to fine Arien's hi-temp grease, which Dealers say is unavailable to them as well. Any suggestions??
Any ole grease is fine for the axles or auger shaft. What I used was a lithium grease (red color) this time. That's the grease used in high rpm spindle bearings of zero turn machines. Napa has the white lithium grease in a tube, That's good for that hex shaft (part of the shifter)
Ariens does sell that auger lube in a little bottle. 1 bottle will last you a lifetime unless you have seals going bad and it drips out or something. That's a synthetic gear found at the dealers or on line. The newest oil might not be red in color, so I've heard. Ariens uses top shelf auger gears so if you keep the right oil in the gear box, you will never ever have to fix that.
Hello, I just bought the Ariens Classic 24 and I noticed the 2 large washers where the auger meets the auger gear box, they are loose with play on both sides. Seems like they should be snug. There is also no way to tighten them that I see. I also noticed when you turned your auger there wasn’t much play before it actually turned. I have about 1/4 inch play before my auger turns. Both sides. Thanks, Chad
Not to worry about that. There are shear pins and they should move some so the pins can be replaced if you break one. I recommend removing the pins and greasing the augers and rotate them to evenly distribute the grease in the axles then put your pins back and snug up the nuts so they don't just fall apart. On one of my machines they are a little tight but I know they aren't frozen so everything is ok. If you hit something solid (ice block or dog bowl etc) you want the sear pins to break and to stop the augers from turning to avoid damaging the gear box. In use I usually step on each side to see if I broke a sear pin before it gets put back in the garage. Force of habit. The last 5 years I never broke a pin on the Ariens machines. Ariens machines are built well. Around here they are the top sellers. Thanks for watching.
007connecticut I removed the pin but don’t understand how to grease axel. It has a grease nipple on both sides next to sear pins. Doesn’t that lube the axel? I used anti seize on the wheel axels but didn’t take off housing to look inside the machine yet. I assumed everything came lubricated and greased when buying brand new. So glad I watched a few videos first. Lube came out of those nipples when I was spinning auger to line up sear pin holes. So it must be greased. I was thinking the auger comes off it’s axel. Thanks again
@@chadvlassis9275 Yes. You grease the zerk fittings and if the sear pin is removed you spin the auger around a few times to evenly spread the grease around. Then put the pin back. You don't want them to rust up because it will ruin your gear box if you hit something in the snow. Then it will be a bear to repair the machine because the augers won't slide off the axles. It would be cheaper to replace the machine because the labor will be so high fighting with the rusted shafts. Thanks for watching!
007connecticut I understand now Thankyou. I watched a video where someone disassembled the auger and removed the entire thing then took auger off axel and greased. My plan is to buy a grease gun, pull sear pin, grease nipple thing, spin auger then be on my way? Easier than taking it apart. Thanks for your help
@@chadvlassis9275 Yes buy a grease gun and grease them once a year. It only take a shot or two. If the grease weeps out your good to go.. The grease will melt over the summer so the grease turns to oil. With oil (grease) in there it won't rust up.
I have a Honda motor, and I was told never tip the motor because you'll cause oil to dump into the cylinders. And gas can also flow to the crankcase, so we transport equipment with the fuel shutoff valve activated. Once that did happen to me to the point I couldn't pull the starter rope, so the technician removed the sparkplug and told me to stand back. He pulled the rope, and out squirted a large amount of oi 6 feet into the air.l. So I learned my lesson. In your motor, is that the same precaution that you must follow? I ask, because you had your motor tipped pretty well to do maintenance.
I flip them over for service. I guess what you experienced could happen with other brand engines. I usually have the tank empty when I roll them on the bucket, this prevents gas from flooding the engine or the chance it leaks out of the gas cap. Normal service I don't worry about the engine oil, but if you let it sit over night or something, then there is a chance of this happening to Briggs engines too. Oil will seap thru rings and get into the cylinder if you leave it upside down for very long periods.
LostInMySpace In 007’s video if you noticed prior to setting his machine into the service position, the oil was first drained out of the motor and he also stated that it would be a good idea to drain the fuel out of the fuel tank prior to tipping the machine over to avoid everything you just had mentioned in the first place. That eliminates having anything like that from happening.
I service all my machines at the end of season. (Snowblowers in the spring). So as they sit off season they are clean with fresh grease and oil. It's like after supper you do the dishes, same idea. I don't like the snowblowers sitting dirty all summer because the salt is corrosive to the machines.
Great vid! One question, wen I chk the oil level, shood I dip stic all the way in, or, just to top of neck - different ans depending on hu I ask. Oh, did I mention, grate vid?! Thanks😖😣
To be safe you should check the owners manual for the engine you have. Kohler and Kawasaki you do not screw in. Rest the stick on TOP of the threads. Briggs, as a rule, you screw them in. On a side oil cap (small engine) you fill it up until the oil will drip out. Any true dipstick (like a car engine), you push the dipstick in. Now I'm confused...LOL
Yes you can but be advised with the engine full of oil, as you tip the machine over there is a chance oil may flow into an open valve so it may smoke after you start it or it might be hard to start. So for a few minutes will be ok, don't leave it like that all day.
Very nice. I just got an Ariens Deluxe 24 today and this video really compliments the owner's manual. Thanks!
Thank you for your very helpful video. I have self serviced my Simplicity snowblower every year since I bought it used in 1993 but never checked the auger gear housing. I'll be referring to your video when I work on mine this spring before storing it.
Very nice piece, well done.
Just bought my first snowblower MTD 24 two stage USED. Came from a guy who worked on small engines his whole life, but I've learned a couple tips from you and others, I will be looking into.
Your video will make that stuff easier and show me what to look for. Thanks.
Really great tip about making the dip stick! I did the same with a wire coat hanger after watching your video. Did the trick. Thank you !
Just bought an Arien snowblower. I really appreciate this video. Short and simple..Thank you..
Wow. A real eye opener for me. Great video. Thank you so much.
Thanks for taking the time to post this excellent maintenance video.
As a new snow blower owner I am very happy I found this video my snowblower is quite old and made by a company that’s no longer in business and may need quite a few of these point looked after
Great video! Thanks for taking the time to make it. Its appreciated. 👍🏻
I watched another video on this where the guy said that when you removed the screw on the top of the gearbox the oil should be touching the threads on the screw, as if the screw was a dipstick. That would grossly overfill the gearbox. Your procedure is right on. Thanks, I'm glad I decide to check another video besides his.
Outstanding video. Right to the point but also detailed in plain English. Big fan!
Thanks for the post my first year with a house and a snowblower valuable information
Using grease on that Axle shaft is really important, tried taking the wheels off an almost identical model to his in the video on a 2 year old unit, and it was rusted and it was hard to get off. Put grease on , now it comes off and on easy. Great Video, You helped me out big time. Thanks.
Saw another snow blower maintenance vid and mechanic said the preferred grease for the two axils is anti seize. However he said nothing about a key on the axils. I gotta check that out. I have an Ariens Snow Tek.
Every single snow blower owner should watch this video. If you take good care of all your machines they will serve you for a long time .
Take care of your equipment, and it will take care of you.
I keep lawnmowers for over 25 years.
@@michaelprosperity3420 Right on!! We still have our garden tractor we bought used in around 1991. Don't use it as much anymore, mainly just a few times a year to haul the old garden trailer. No smoke, cuts as nice as my newer Cub.
I’m a Master Tech at a Powersports Dealership. Been doing it 37 Years. I’ve found that: Customers are their own worst enemies😂 I try my best to educate EVERY Customer on Proper Maintenance, and the Money Proper Maintenance will save them down the road...they think I’m “ripping them off” and wanting to upsell them on expensive Products and “unneeded” Service. The next year, they bring their new machine in because it won’t start and they want it covered under Warranty....they then get extremely pissed when I tell them that Warranty does NOT cover Carburetor/Fuel related issues. I then remind them that these maintenance items were discussed with them. Moral of the Story: DO your maintenance, it WILL save you money.
@@dgperforms1 gear case oil change?
more than most people would ever dream to do, nice work
Great job and thank you! That’s probably why your machine looks new
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and showing in simplistic terms
Some good tips, I just got my Toro 521 ready for the winter and went around and lubricated and adjusting everything that moves but I see a few places I missed 🤔 thanks 👍 good video ✌️
Thanks. I have the same machine and will put what I learned to use this weekend.
I really like your oil checker. :)
Good job nice and slow and good explanation of what the purpose of step is A+
Very good. I particularly like your dipstick. I also do the following:
1. Lubricate the bolts holding the skid shoes and scraper blade;
2. Lubricate the various moving parts of the chute;
3. Oil any cables and controls, moving them through their extremes to distribute the lubricant;
4. Adjust the height of the skid shoes and then the scraper blade.
5. Check and possibly replace the spark plug.
Great video! Have a 3rd hand Ariens from 70s. Great info. Hello from costal CT,
Excellent instructional video from CT!
Great information and great video.
Don Zelmer from Milwaukee
I think a lot of people should thank you, including me!
Very good and helpful video. Ariens specifies Stens Hi-Temp grease for lubrication, which only seems to be available in mini tubes and a three pack will cost you $15. I looked at the data sheet for the Stens and it is interchangeable with "Red 'N' Tacky" grease. Lucas "Red 'N' Tacky" is available at Walmart for $5 for a full size tube, so that's what I use.
That is the same as I use for mine. As I figured if it’s good enough for the heavy equipment our company uses on a daily basis that sees some heavy duty work conditions each and every single day, it’s good for use on the snowblower.
Thanks, I have a vintage Ariens. This is great. Thank you for making this helpful video!
Great video! There is nothing worse than your snowblower breaking down during s big storm! Take care of your machine, your back will thank you.
Wow , very impressive video. Thank you!
Good teacher. Thank you.
Nice work ...... very informative, amd very efficient
Excellent tutorial. I just bought my Ariens 28 Deluxe two days ago and this will help me keep it lubricated and in service during the winter seasons. BTW, I live in Connecticut too.
Oh so you had to break it in a few days ago. The wind was a killer. The 28 is a good machine, but the one I had was a little under powered for the end of road piles. So I bought the 30 in platinum shown in the video. That one has a little bigger engine and hand warmers which I desire now. On other videos I also use a 36" pro. The 36" is my primary and the 30" is my backup if I break down. I'm too old to hand shovel. LOL
@@007connecticut Yeah, I had that same issue at the salted snow piles at the end of my driveway. What I learned to do was feather the clutch handle and ease into the snow piles slowly. That worked like a charm. I was looking at the 30 too but the drastic cost increase was a no go for me. If anything, I might have gone with the next step-up which would have been the 28" Deluxe SHO model which was about $150 bucks more.
@@journeyon1983 Yes your machine will be just fine, just listen to the engine if it bogs down just let off on the forward speed. Your machine sure beats shoveling by hand! Service it in march like how I shown in the video, & drain the gas (run the carb dry). It will last you 20 years or more.
@@007connecticut I sure want to thank you for the tips. That's good to know that my Ariens will last a long time. Before this, I had a Craftsman 48" snow thrower attachment for my garden tractor. The problem with that is it was really heavy and would dig into the ground and throw dirt & rocks. It would also leave deep grooves in the ground where the shoes glide over. I certainly loved the wide swath of snow it would throw but it didn't do anywhere as good as my new Ariens 28 Deluxe . My gawd what a difference. When I'm done, the snow looks professionally plowed. I really love it all the way around. The main thing now is to get familiar with it service-wise. That's why I've been watching videos like yours, when it comes to maintenance. I'd like to keep this in tip top condition for every winter season.
Very good over view. Thanks.
Thanks for posting this is a big help.
I use brake cleaner on the metal drive wheel to clean the rubber off and make it shiny and stick
Nice vid,
I used a bolt that I just set in the hole with the length being the minimum amount of gear oil that's needed so if it is touching the end it is good.
That bolt for gear oil has a torque spec also just like the shear pins.
After greasing shaft you should take pins out to spin shafts to spread grease and reinstall pins and torque to spec.
Gear on inside near chain takes grease not oil.
Grease fitting is not for shifter it is for small gear that meshes with big gear assembly inside and should be greased with bottom cover off to make sure enough grease is put in and that none falls were it is not suppose to be.
You failed to grease axle bushings and take axle out or atleast right side that is a two peice axle and needs grease on the inside or if it seizes together you may never get axle fully out.
Very simple and quick to take entire two peice axle out, that way you can grease axle bushing area the axle sits in and slides thru.
Excellent video, thanks!
Damn, you take great care of your equipment! That machine looks like it's never seen daylight.
I wash it in the early spring to rid the salt. It's kept in my garage against one wall so it's not kept outside. Thanks.
That's because it is new...for demo purposes
@@mikesecondo2254 This machine is 5 years old. I used it full time for 3 years and rolled it over to a back up machine. I have a 36" hydro pro as my primary machine now. (I run 2 blowers as I don't like hand shoveling any longer) Both Ariens machines have a lot of
common parts makes my parts box smaller.
That was a well made instructional video.. Thanks !
Great video. Thank you.
No, it's fairly straightforward. Remove the 2-4 bolts that hold the 2 sections together support the handle bars with a trash can or wall so it don't lay over too far and separate the pieces ( housing and engine assemblies) of course disconnect the chute crank prior to separating the sections. Belt replacement is easy at this point
No adjustments are needed inside. If the tension is off on the new belt, you adjust it on the cable at the rear of the machine.
Nice job 👍 thanks 2013 but always nice for a refresher!
Good video; thanks for posting.
May I offer a suggestion. You said you use gas to clean the drive disk. Gas is a great solvent/cleaner but it will leave the slightest of (oily) film. I use brake cleaner sprayed on a paper towel for the job. Leaves the drive disk squeaky clean. DO NOT spray brake cleaner in the inside of the machine. Brake cleaner can be hard on the rubber on the friction wheel and paint.
great video
nice and thorough
That style just has little stubby auger shafts, that's why the brace is there and the shear pins and zerks are located where they are.
You can also screw a plastic bag under the gas cap before tipping it up.
So well engineered in so many different details of the machine. And yet they give very precise Auger gearbox oil level requirement and NO DIPSTICK?!? Someone at Ariens needs a "time-out" in the corner for neglecting their homework. Great idea on the home made dipstick!
It's dumb they don't have a dipstick. you could use a screw driver, but I like stupid things to make my like easier. :)
I followed your tip and made my own. My is very serviceable, but definitely home made. Yours looks like factory original equipment.
I think I used aluminum that was for grounding electrical boxes (or maybe an antenna). It's heavy gauge wire left on a nail in the garage. I use it for various things, painting small parts mostly. Cool, paint the handle orange so it's looks factory. Now your neighbor will want one... ;)
Very clever idea thanks for sharing.
What paint color did you use ?
It seems like the best option would have been to put the Fill Bolt on the side like an automotive differential and fill gear oil to that level.
Very nice job, thank you for your time,,
Thank you
Nice and straightforward
Very thorough! Thanks
Nice run through on simple maintenance that will extend the life of the snowblower. Might want to consider adding a bit on how to replace and adjust the wear shoes, especially to prevent wearing the bottom edge of the case.
I don't use shoes as I put together a set of "wheels" out of sealed bearings. They are a little slow to fabricate but they are good for my lifetime. The scraper bar don't wear down either because the bucket height never changes, just rolls along. See here ruclips.net/video/VG1giQ0heaY/видео.html
I see they sell them made out of plastic now. Got to give the Chinese credit for running with a good idea. LOL
the under the drive disk there is a grease fitting for the sealed bearing that holds the drive disk shaft. that bearing needs a single hand pump of wheel bearing grease. do not over grease. ensure and leaked grease is wiped away.
each season it is helpful to grease the skid bolts, auger shear pin bolts and auger shear pin drive shaft bolt threads (this one is on the shaft coming out from the engine to the worm gear in the auger gear box). which makes them rust free and easier to remove.
Thanks
Really well taught
Great Video!
Superb,! Superb! Superb!
Thanks a bunch,, for the pro Tips. 😀
You are awesome...
Thank you
Another item that we may want to do is pull the plastic drive belt cover to see the auger and transmission drive belts' wear conditions and clearance play.
learned a lot thanks so much
Great video! Im also in CT! (Orange)
Fantastic 👍
GREASE YOUR SHEAR PINS ALWAYS. IT MAKES LIFE A LOT EASIER.
Yes thank you!
Draining the oil.
In this video, the plug came off very easy. Ariens advice is to use a 2nd wrench to stabilize the tube (there is a milled flat part on the tube for this purpose), so it doesn't twist within the engine block. This is especially important if the drain plug is stuck more firmly.
The oil plug is a typical threaded pipe (pipe thread which is slightly tapered) and a square cap. I don't put the square cap tight after my first oil change as you see the wrench I use. Use a vise grip on the pipe if it wants to unscrew with the cap. There are no flats on the pipe. If the pipe turns it's ok to tighten it a little more. Then when you put the cap back with a wrench, don't tighten it too much, so next time you remove the cap the pipe will stay tight in it's place.
Must just be a different model. My advice was derived from the official Ariens Channel, on the video titled "Preparing Your Ariens Sno Thro for the Snow Season". It can be seen around the 1:30 mark. But on a model like yours that does NOT have a wrenching spot manufactured on the drain tube, your method sounds perfect. Thanks for the prompt reply.
There's a great video and I really appreciate it I don't own this brand but mine looks very similar just got it the other day and I think you gave me a lot of tips I know I will need to check my own but what oil do you use in the auger Reservoir thanks Simon
Old or new, when greasing the augers, I would remove the shear pins and spin the augers a few times to distribute the grease. The grease in this location is acting as "anti-seize" should you break a shear pin while operating the machine. If the augers cannot rotate on the inner drive axle [with a broken shear pin] because they are seized-up with rust, etc. the gears in the auger gear case would likely get damaged.
Thanks for the explanation. I was wondering why they would lubricate the auger shaft. It is hard for me to do thing without knowing what it is.
what kinda of grease is used?
@@donc8879 Most general purpose grease will work fine for this purpose. Most mechanics also recommend taking the wheels off and greasing the axles for the same reason. The wheels can get rusted to the axles and become impossible to remove.
Really excellent video on the details and the stripe by step instructions. Much appreciated. I have a question if someone can please answer, when i get a new craftsman 204CC snowblower, i assume i don't have to do any greasing or putting lubricating, and that it comes fully maintained for the first season - right? Thanks
If the dealer puts it together you will be fine for the first season. It's greased at the factory also. But at least check the auger fluid level. That's easy to check while you check out your new machine. In the spring follow my method of service and that blower will be around in 20 years.
And check the tire pressure as the right one will guarantee proper traction !
Good video
Loved your video. I just bought an ariens snow blower, deluxe 28. As I watched your video, I was trying to take note of the oils and grease you use. Could you please tell me what kind of lithium grease you used on the HEX shaft where the gears and chain are. It looked like you squeezed it on your finger from a toothpaste type tube. Thank you. Dan
I got a brand new Ariens Classic 24. Do I need to do any lubrication on the machine before use, or does it got all the lubrication it needs at the factory? I have checked that motor oil and gearcase oil is ok.
Very thorough and informative. Has that machine EVER seen snow?
Yes I used it about 4 years. It cleaned many heavy snow falls of nearly 2 feet because of the Noreaster storms on the east coast.. That means the snow was over the bucket 3-4 times a year! It's stored in a heated garage (about 40F) so the snow and ice melt off it after use. In the spring I wash it well so I remove the salt from the road. Service it at the end of season yearly around March / April. Last year I put 2 tire tubes in the tires as I was getting flats. The rims may be getting a little corroded on the beads I guess. It holds air now. This machine was placed as a back up last year, as I bought a 36" machine. Last year we got only a few inches of snow for the first time in 10 years . I think the 36" machine is making mother nature back off. LOL I don't clean crushed rock / gravel so that's why the paint looks good inside the chute and bucket. thanks for watching.
You're going to own that thing for 50 years
@Syk of this pc bs Briggs today has gone to $***
My mower engine has cost me alot of $ to repair with only 360 hours
The manufacturer of most small engines (Makita, Honda, Ariens LCT, etc.) says to check the engine oil without screwing in the dip stick.
Yes your correct, but this is a Briggs engine. Briggs wants you to screw the dipstick in. My Kawasaki (zero turn) and Honda (leaf blower) engines are like you say. I hate when they do that...Thanks for watching!
What kind of oil did you use to lube the gears? Thanks.
Heavy Duty Lithium Based Grease Is A Water Repellent, Extreme Pressure Formula (nlgi Grade 2). Use In Wheel Bearings, Chassis Lubrication And All Ball And Roller Bearings On Ariens Snow Blowers And Lawn Mowers.
thanks great video .
one question. if your auger gear box is low in oil what kind of oil would you put in the auger gear box ....some people say put 0-0 grease and some say a sae 85-95 oil
thanks in advance
I would use the Ariens recommended fluid. That 1 bottle will last you for years. They use a synthetic fluid I don't know the viscosity. Thanks for watching the video!
Thx
Do you have s video on changing belts.
To Keep the body/ bolts/ drive shaft/ Tines Rust Free ----- Get one of these in an aerosol can :
-Krown T40 -Rust Check (red) or Rust Check Coat & Protect (green can )
-Fluid Film -Rust Cure Formula 3000
I like ant-seize on the wheel/axles...
That would be fine to use. grease is cheaper for me and more laying around.
I saw that recently in Donyboy73's video. I have already greased the axle shafts on mine, but for next year, I plan to use anti-seize on the axles.
@@tomlewis3658 what does Donyboy73 use?
007connecticut he just made a video anti seize
@@americanstreet8704 LOL
Great video, thanks. I have two questions:
How did you know where to make your mark for the gearbox oil level?
What type of oil did you use to put on the chain?
In the owners manual it explains the at least level and the max filled level from on top of the gear box. So I filed the marks on my custom made dip stick. One line is minimum level and the other mark is maximum filled level. Why don't they make a dip stick??
And I think of the chain like a bicycle chain so I just use motor oil on that. It won't rust up if that's oiled. Thanks for watching.
@@007connecticut what kind of gearbox oil? Thank you
@@garyduran1 I use the Ariens synthetic oil for the gear box. It comes in little bottles. Just order 1 on line. That's what I did.
I haven't change oil in my Yardman
Two stage snow blower since I bought it in 1999...😅 😆 It starts on every first pull...
Your a blessed man. If that was myself, I I'd be shoveling white crap till spring!
What oil do you use in the gearbox?
What do you use to lubricate the chute lock, chute lever & plate? I have a 926LE, and it has a pivoting lock that catches a gear for chute rotation. It’s NOT the best design, I am sure it looked good on paper. Please advise. Great instructional video!
Lithium grease won't freeze, so that's what I use. They sell it in a tube like toothpaste at auto stores
What oil do you use on your chain?
I always spray silicone in the chute. That prevents "sticky" snow from clogging the chute. Not 100%, but helpful.
I have not experienced icing in the chute with the new Ariens machines. Perhaps they still have paint in them so it helps the snow not collect. Or maybe they have a tighter fit on the impeller? Some guys use car wax, others pam kitchen no stick spray and you use silicone. Lastly some people use rubber floor mats or tires sidewalls to make an impeller kit to help throw the snow out of there more efficiently. All good ideas if your having trouble in this area.
I use DuPont Snow and Ice with Teflon
on chute, impeller, as well as snow shovel blades. 6 bucks for a spray can at Walmart.
I also use car wax on the impeller housing and the chute works great snow and ice slide right off I also wax all the painted surfaced on the whole machine to protect it from salt and water damage it works. I had two snow throwers the first was a Craftsman that is 15yrs old which I gave to my son and It still looks new . the other is an Ariens and I do the same and it also looks new I know its a little over the top but when I am finished snow blowing I hit the machine with compressed air to remove most of the snow on it so the water does not have a place to lay . Remember Protect your investment I was not free you paid good money for it
@@1995dresser Griot's Garage Ceramic 3-in-1spray wax!
I just got one of these after having a single stage Honda for many years. One thing I like about the Honda is that you can drain the gas tank by loosening a screw in the bottom of the carburetor bowl for storage. Does the Arien’s have something like that? I haven’t found it yet, but haven’t taken any of the covers/tins off yet.
I think the 420cc pro machine has the screw on the bowl. An easy way around this approach is to run the engine until it's starving for fuel, then turn on the choke full. Run it until it dies, then try and restart it. If it won't restart your sure the carb is dry. Today's ethanol fuel is really bad for rusting carbs out over the summer months. Had it happen to me so I just make sure the bowl is dry before I store it from here on.
007connecticut thanks. I agree about the ethanol gas and as such, I only use ethanol free gas in my small engines. I’m fortunate to have a gas station not far away that sells ethanol free 87. Thanks for the video...it was helpful.
@@flyjarrett You are so lucky!
I use blue stabil (marine grade for ethanol fuel and I add red bottled HEET to suck any moisture out of the fuel. I have eight 5 gallon gas cans which I tag with the date and rotate within 6 months for my generator use. If I have any fuel over 6 months old if not burned in my small engines I give it to my truck. I only use 93 octane. Since this method no more issues. People say you have 8 gas cans full of fuel? I answer if I lose power the gas station will also have no electricity so that's why I keep some in the shed. I'm going to horde toilet paper next LOL
Thanks very much for this. I'm curious about the dipstick for checking the gearbox oil. How did you know where to file it so it would mark the area from 2 5/8 to 2 3/8"? What is that distance from the bend to the file marks? Maybe you already have a "plan" for it, and if you do, I'd like to see it. Thanks again. I learned a LOT watching this.
I found a piece of aluminum wire and bent it so when I lay it on top of the gear box it lays flat as the wire drops down into the oil. Then I measured from the bottom of the wire (where is sits on top of the gear box) down and I used a sharpie and marked off my full level and my low level. I then filed between these marks so when I check the oil the oil should be on the filed portion of the stick. I then painted the wire orange so know what machine it's for. The measurements are located in your owners manual. I don't know why Ariens is so anal in this measurement yet they don't provide a tool to check it. Well I made a simple dip stick to check mine. You could use a short screw driver and use that as a gauge as well. Thanks for watching.
@@007connecticut I greatly appreciate your taking the time to explain this a bit further for me, as it will give me the confidence to make one for myself. I'll try the screwdriver test first, just to get a feel for it, and go from there. With this break in the weather I'm looking forward to giving my Ariens a good make-over!
Pure curiosity, what do you have your scraper bar and shoes set at before scraper bar hits surface? I think Ariens recommends 1/8 of an inch? I used a broken wooden yard stick to set mine which is closer to 1/4 inch. Maybe too much because I also use a shovel to get closer to my driveway and sidewalks.
Thanks,
Don Zelmer from Milwaukee
I use 4 paint sticks. I place 2 paint sticks stacked together under the bucket on left and right sides . Then I adjust the shoes (or in my case the wheels) down to the floor, This works for me very well on a paved driveway. It cleans the snow just about clean so if the sun comes out the pavement is wet and it's dry the next day if the weather warms to about freezing.
007connecticut Thank you. It sounds like about what I have by using pieces of wooden yard sticks on either side of skid shoes.
007connecticut Yes, I forgot you have ballbearing wheels. I did watch your video on that as well. Good idea, but too much trouble for me. My Ariens snow blower is seven years old and a year or two ago, I just flipped shoes around. This season, I bought new shoes and scraper bar and replaced late October. Thanks for the great tips. I saved your video to my computer to help me remember your tips. Every season I do grease the auger and take out shear pins to spin auger. Last October I also took off wheels and greased the shafts like you did. I have a Briggs and Stratton 205cc engine for my Ariens Compact. I believe in preventive measures before trouble starts during winter months.
Do you have to change the gear box oil? or just keep an eye on the fluid in there
No you didn't need to drain and refill, just keep an eye on the level, add a little if you need to. This is one area no one checks, then one season the gears are wrecked and the machine won't clear any more snow. It's a expensive repair that's easily prevented
Do you just pour oil into the 9/16 hole: if you need gear box/shaft oil? Good video thanks.
Yes you add oil thru that bolt hole. Use the correct Synthetic oil from ariens to avoid problems.
Your video is awesome, so clear and precise. I was unable to fine Arien's hi-temp grease, which Dealers say is unavailable to them as well. Any suggestions??
Any ole grease is fine for the axles or auger shaft. What I used was a lithium grease (red color) this time. That's the grease used in high rpm spindle bearings of zero turn machines. Napa has the white lithium grease in a tube, That's good for that hex shaft (part of the shifter)
Ariens does sell that auger lube in a little bottle. 1 bottle will last you a lifetime unless you have seals going bad and it drips out or something. That's a synthetic gear found at the dealers or on line. The newest oil might not be red in color, so I've heard. Ariens uses top shelf auger gears so if you keep the right oil in the gear box, you will never ever have to fix that.
Red N Tacky NGLI#2 Red Lithium Grease is a good High Temp Grease to use. $5. for a 14 oz. tube at Home Depot.
I am curious, where you saw in the manual, or how you found the spec of 2 3/8 to 2 5/8 on auger gear case.
It was in the manual of my newer Ariens machine. I can print it out if you need it.
Hello, I just bought the Ariens Classic 24 and I noticed the 2 large washers where the auger meets the auger gear box, they are loose with play on both sides. Seems like they should be snug. There is also no way to tighten them that I see. I also noticed when you turned your auger there wasn’t much play before it actually turned. I have about 1/4 inch play before my auger turns. Both sides. Thanks, Chad
Not to worry about that. There are shear pins and they should move some so the pins can be replaced if you break one. I recommend removing the pins and greasing the augers and rotate them to evenly distribute the grease in the axles then put your pins back and snug up the nuts so they don't just fall apart. On one of my machines they are a little tight but I know they aren't frozen so everything is ok. If you hit something solid (ice block or dog bowl etc) you want the sear pins to break and to stop the augers from turning to avoid damaging the gear box.
In use I usually step on each side to see if I broke a sear pin before it gets put back in the garage. Force of habit. The last 5 years I never broke a pin on the Ariens machines. Ariens machines are built well. Around here they are the top sellers. Thanks for watching.
007connecticut I removed the pin but don’t understand how to grease axel. It has a grease nipple on both sides next to sear pins. Doesn’t that lube the axel? I used anti seize on the wheel axels but didn’t take off housing to look inside the machine yet. I assumed everything came lubricated and greased when buying brand new. So glad I watched a few videos first. Lube came out of those nipples when I was spinning auger to line up sear pin holes. So it must be greased. I was thinking the auger comes off it’s axel. Thanks again
@@chadvlassis9275 Yes. You grease the zerk fittings and if the sear pin is removed you spin the auger around a few times to evenly spread the grease around. Then put the pin back. You don't want them to rust up because it will ruin your gear box if you hit something in the snow.
Then it will be a bear to repair the machine because the augers won't slide off the axles. It would be cheaper to replace the machine because the labor will be so high fighting with the rusted shafts. Thanks for watching!
007connecticut I understand now Thankyou. I watched a video where someone disassembled the auger and removed the entire thing then took auger off axel and greased. My plan is to buy a grease gun, pull sear pin, grease nipple thing, spin auger then be on my way? Easier than taking it apart. Thanks for your help
@@chadvlassis9275 Yes buy a grease gun and grease them once a year. It only take a shot or two. If the grease weeps out your good to go.. The grease will melt over the summer so the grease turns to oil. With oil (grease) in there it won't rust up.
I have a Honda motor, and I was told never tip the motor because you'll cause oil to dump into the cylinders. And gas can also flow to the crankcase, so we transport equipment with the fuel shutoff valve activated. Once that did happen to me to the point I couldn't pull the starter rope, so the technician removed the sparkplug and told me to stand back. He pulled the rope, and out squirted a large amount of oi 6 feet into the air.l. So I learned my lesson. In your motor, is that the same precaution that you must follow? I ask, because you had your motor tipped pretty well to do maintenance.
I flip them over for service. I guess what you experienced could happen with other brand engines. I usually have the tank empty when I roll them on the bucket, this prevents gas from flooding the engine or the chance it leaks out of the gas cap. Normal service I don't worry about the engine oil, but if you let it sit over night or something, then there is a chance of this happening to Briggs engines too. Oil will seap thru rings and get into the cylinder if you leave it upside down for very long periods.
LostInMySpace In 007’s video if you noticed prior to setting his machine into the service position, the oil was first drained out of the motor and he also stated that it would be a good idea to drain the fuel out of the fuel tank prior to tipping the machine over to avoid everything you just had mentioned in the first place. That eliminates having anything like that from happening.
What type of oil are you using on your gear chain?
Engine oil is fine. Just like when we were kids on our bikes...
This is maintenance you do in the fall right before Winter? Do you let it sit with the old oil all off-season?
I service all my machines at the end of season. (Snowblowers in the spring). So as they sit off season they are clean with fresh grease and oil. It's like after supper you do the dishes, same idea.
I don't like the snowblowers sitting dirty all summer because the salt is corrosive to the machines.
Great vid! One question, wen I chk the oil level, shood I dip stic all the way in, or, just to top of neck - different ans depending on hu I ask. Oh, did I mention, grate vid?!
Thanks😖😣
To be safe you should check the owners manual for the engine you have. Kohler and Kawasaki you do not screw in. Rest the stick on TOP of the threads. Briggs, as a rule, you screw them in. On a side oil cap (small engine) you fill it up until the oil will drip out. Any true dipstick (like a car engine), you push the dipstick in. Now I'm confused...LOL
@@007connecticut thx, so much! 👍
Can I flip the blower up to expose the belly to remove old gas if I already filled the engine with new oil?
Yes you can but be advised with the engine full of oil, as you tip the machine over there is a chance oil may flow into an open valve so it may smoke after you start it or it might be hard to start. So for a few minutes will be ok, don't leave it like that all day.
@@007connecticut thankyou
Thanks for this video. What kind of oil for the chain?
Engine oil is what I use