PMCS - Preventative Maintenance Checks and Services for us in the Army. Every Monday is motor pool day Army wide where we do PMCS on all the HMMWV:Humvees, 5 tons, 10 tons, trailers, etc. it’s basically to keep the vehicles running since they do a lot of sitting until they get used for a convoy, training mission or deployment, and to catch any issues before they happen or before they progress. I spent a great deal of time in the Army so now it’s a part of me, I do PMCS on my lawn equipment, snow blower, generator, etc. and I never have trouble starting my equipment right up.
My mom bought an Ariens ST824 back in 1993, it doesn't ask questions, starts every time. I took your advice and prop up the blade after every use. Has minimal rust on the corners. It's 30 years old and looks 10. I love your passion for Ariens snow blowers!
Good video. A couple of comments: Firstly, when removing the oil drain plug you should consider putting another wrench on the pipe (that’s why there is a flat section) to stop the pipe from turning. I know you were gentle but if you use another wrench this will prevent any problems. Secondly, I have a similar model (Professional 28”) with a Briggs & Stratton engine. The procedure you followed would not drain all the old oil out of my blower. To get all the old oil out I put a pan in place and then lean the blower all the way back until it rests on its handles. Once no more oil is dripping out, I then raise it back to level and tilt it all the way back again. Yet more oil will come out. I have to do this 8 to 10+ times to finally get all the old oil out. I also shake it a bit when I am lowering it back down.
Not a bad idea to remove the spark plug and use some engine fogging spray and pull the starter rope a couple of times to coat the cylinder walls so they remain clean and rust free. Works for me, anyway.
Love your videos! Everytime I have a maintenance question or curious how to preserve the life of my machines, you're able to explain it so simply. You've saved me a ton of money. Thank you so much for helping us non-mechanical people. Haha
Bought a Toro 2 stage 2 years ago. I watched your video at the end of the winter last year and again this year. I think by next year I'll have it all memorized. Thank you!
Nice! This is just what I needed. Just bought a 2 stage 208cc snowblower from Lowes a few days ago. Now I know how to properly summerize it during the Summer. Gonna add this to my favorites list.
I have never done any of this. I use high octane fuel with no ethanol little stabil. and put it away. I have a 1983 STIHL Wood Boss chain saw my Dad bought new. I was putting my mowers and stuff away for winter and I thought I better check that saw. It had been 2 years since that saw had been started. Full of 2 year old fuel started right up and ran great. Dumped the fuel put some new fuel in added a little stabil ran her good and put her away again. Who knows what's right just do what works for you. Great video and love your channel.
14:32 I like to change the oil BEFORE and AFTER the gas run-out stage to really get that old ugly oil out. Also, leave the carb nut off for a bit to help the little bit of gas in the bowl evaporate.
Good tips, i also grease the augers and drive chains as well as take out the spark plug and spray in some engine storage spray, give it a few pulls and bring piston to top. I also get some white lithium grease spray and hit all lever connections, snorkel gears and a bit inside the cables. Up here it gets really cold and I've never had a frozen cable doing this.
Great tips thanks! I've been doing mostly the same but never thought about the easy piston pull trick. I think a really important thing I don't recall you mentioning is storing it in neutral to prevent flat spots forming on the rubber friction disk. Mine is tracked and I store it in a barn outside with a gravel floor. I keep it on a pallet that is easy to pick up and move with the tractor if I need to. I also put a light dust cover over it but not a full cover or I find it attracts mice. I'll plug a dummy plug into the the starter plug to keep spider nests out. I lube into all my cables and control linkages, and a few things specific to tracks. Running a '97 Yamaha YS828TE, still starts first or second pull every time after heavy heavy use. Can't say enough good things about it.
Rock'o'chimp ! Hey bud, thanks for all the great feedback! Sounds like I’m not the only one who likes to spend a little extra time maintaining their equipment! All good tips on your end! Especially with the cables. On my snowblower the friction disk is always in neutral until you pull the lever down so it’s not touching the plate. But I like how you are a forward thinker to prevent the flat spots. Is that only a track drive thing? Thanks for watching!
Good video on basic maintenance. My PM routine includes checking the belts for wear/fraying before putting it to bed for the summer and always keep a spare set on hand. I also use a turkey baster to remove most of the gas from the tank so it doesn't run very long before it runs dry.
If you have a full tank, the turkey baster method can still be tedious. I bought a battery powered pump called a TeraPump that I use to remove gas from my tank. Saves a lot of time - and I can re-use the winter gas when I start up my lawn tractor in the spring. The pump costs about $30 but I use it to transfer fuel in and out of all my power equipment, assuring that when it's laid up, the tank is always empty.
A couple of points: 1) Synthetic oil should only be used on an engine that has been broken in for at least 50 running hours with regular oil. 2) WD40 was designed by the space industry to prevent rust on the re-entry rockets that parachute down into the ocean. I once did an experiment with a couple of steel nails. One sprayed with WD40 and one without, both left outside. The untreated nail had rust showing the next day. The one with WD40 went a full six months without any rust.
I no longer use a snow blower but I do the same thing with the gas on my generator and my garden tractor. has never failed me.I also put fuel shutoffs on all my equipment. Good video
Thanks for all the tips you have shared in your snowblower videos. I am used to winterizing, but have never thought of summerizing until I bought a snowblower this winter
Agreed with the comment of lubing the augers. Also, adjust skid shoes/scraper for proper clearance, as they wear during use. Instead of WD40 for a wipe down and cleaning, I use diesel fuel and a rag. A gallon goes a long way, and leaves it shiny with protective oil coating (an old Army tracked vehicle maintenance trick I learned back my enlisted days). Rock on!
I too have never used fuel stabilizer on my snow-thro…my Ariens is now 22 years old (1999) and have always run it dry of fuel then drained the float bowl and NEVER had any issues starting it come winter…it still runs like a champ.
You did a very nice job, just a couple of suggestions though. 1. You’re right, it is VERY important not to get any lubrication on the pressure plate. I would have used something a little thicker than a paper towel. Cut a square from an old pizza box, that works well. 2. Since you were planning on tipping the snowblower up to get at the gear box, I would have waited to pour in the new oil until you were done with the rest of the maintenance and cleaning.
Good tips! I was going a little overboard with some of the maintenance tips for the average homeowner but I think viewers got the idea! Thanks for watching John!
Well you said you tried stabil and it never worked the same after. I've never done anything to my snowblower for 17 years and it starts like a charm every year, I can't imagine doing anything different and getting a better result.
Sounds like you bought the 1/1million machine! Lol every year my machine sits for over 6 months and I know it would have issues if I left it untouched. Thanks for checking out my channel!
My best $17 spent was for a snow thrower cover, tarps always get blown off unless you tie down every side. I store the covered snow thrower in a corner of our carport. Keeps dirt and bird/spider poo off the machine. I put also moth balls in an old sock and hang next to the engine shroud to deter mice nesting.
Absolutely EXCELLENT advise. The only thing I do slightly different, is use copper based anti-seize, I think it works better than the silver stuff. For the folks that are worried about the WD40 contaminating the environment, use nonstick cooking spray, and Fluid Film. Fluid Film is a non-toxic lanolin oil based product, so it won't harm the environment.
You should remove the auger shear bolts and gears the auger shaft, spin the auger then reinstall the shear bolts, check auger gear box grease level, add if necessary! Also engage the choke.
Heres a tip I do with all my 2 cycle / 4 cycle toys........Use Super gas. When season is over i never empty my gas or gas/oil mixture. But on a bi weekly basis I start my toys for a few minutes. Then when I need them they all start 1st pull.
Sean Sweeney hey bud, I like to be thorough with my equipment. I like to think of it as “planned repairs” at a convenient time rather than deal with “unplanned repairs” at an inconvenient time. Thanks for watching!
You did a great job. With all of that belt burn off on your belly pan you might want to check your belts for wear ? On my machine I replaced both after finding this burn off. Had a couple of really bad storms in a row 94-95? Wore out a couple of components and had to do some work to get it up and running again. Mines a 10 horse. Last year I took the blower end off and did a paint job while re-greasing the bearings. I moved a lot of snow with that blower. It still looks new, garage kept.
Hey Al, thanks for commenting! Funny that you mentioned the belts! My next video is on replacing the belts. It’s coming out Saturday! Haven’t replace the belts in a number of years! Stay tuned for that! Your snowblower must throw like a champ! Thanks for watching! 👍
I do the same thing to my engine, except with WD-40. A good squirt in the cylinder, pull through once or twice, then put the plug back in. Last thing before parking. FYI for Canadian viewers, Premium grade gasoline (91 octane) is pure gasoline (E-0) up here.
I never "fog" any of my equipment. If I were storing them for a few years, then yes. But for seasonal storage, (4-6 months) I find this completely unnecessary.
Best Video I’ve seen for a very long time. Thank you for the very clear and very simple storage instructions. Saved your video for future ‘Summer-izing of my Snowblower’. You have a new loyal subscriber 👍🏻
Just purchased the new Ariens Deluxe 28”. Thanks for making this video your preventive maintenance is thorough and I will follow your steps closely. Go Rambo!
Have an Ariens that's 30 yrs old have always used stabilizer with no issues. Now I use Amsoil stabilizer. Rebuilding the under carriage, new gears ,sprocket,chain, friction wheel, drive shaft , going to use axle bearings instead of bushings.
I always take a metal can take a old can opener and poke about six slots in the bottom, fill it with mothballs put a lid on it and keep it on top or make two and put it in the bottom as well to keep mice away.
When I store my snow blower, I put 1 ounce of fresh motor oil in the spark plug hole. Then I get a rag and put it in front of the spark plug hole and pull the statter rope 5 or 6 times. Then I screw in the old spark plug hand tight. Next season I'll put a new plug in. Make sure you have oil in the crank case when pulling the starter rope.
I was told that while running the gas tank to zero is great, it will still leave gas in the carburetor. Removing gas from the carburetor is great if it is easy to do. I was told that run it to zero, then put in a little All Season Fuel from one of the major manufacturers (like Toro, Honda, etc.) That way you are guaranteed that the fuel sitting in there is clear of those detergents, ethanol, and whatever else the gas station is putting in it. I like this video as does seem to cover everything, however. Thank you.
I hear what you’re saying Sam! I’ve always been a fan of getting every drop out. Nothing can possibly screw up your engine that way. Thanks for watching! 👍
What a great video! I own two Ariens 28" machines and they've served me well, one for 9 years and the other for 5. I too run out the winter season's ethanol gasoline, but on a tip from my dealer, I put in just a small amount of aviation gas and run the machine for a 10-15 seconds to get the av-gas into the carb. Aviation gas does not contain ethanol, it's ~104 octane and and I was told it has a 4-5 year shelf life.
I’ve had good luck using premium, ethanol free fuel that I add Sta-Bil to when I fill the gas can. That way the fuel is stabilized from the get go. Since I use the same gas can for the lawn mower, I’ve never had it go bad.
What I do for my lawnmower is also what I do for the snowblower. I tilt the machine so that the sparkplug is facing the ceiling. I remove the plug and add a teaspoon of oil in the plug hole. I crank the machine by hand a few times to distribute the oil, and with a pencil, I do the crank to get the cylinder to top-dead-centre. I check out the plug for fouling, and if it is good, it is reinserted, otherwise I purchase and install a new spark plug. Do not put more than one tablespoon of oil into the cylinder before replacing the plug, otherwise starting at the next season will be difficult. In the months that go by, the oil will leak down between the piston rings and the piston into the crankcase. By the way, I also use some 2x4 lumber to raise the snowblower off the tires. I just don't want an out-of-round for the tires. Second reason, If the machine is not moved for some months, the black in the tire will transfer onto the floor. I do like your drive train maintenance. Thank you for showing it.
@@GarageGear Happy New Year, keep safe from the viruses. In past years ago, yes, 50 ago when I got married, we would have a foot of snow by 15 November. in 1968, we ended up with two storms leaving 6 feet of snow. Over the past 50 years since, the first snow would appear later and later in the year. This year, it is Jan 5, and while there has been a dusting, it is not enough to take the blower out. Global warming is taking away the fun of using the snow blower. But here in Montreal, where I live, global warming does not mean warmer weather. For example, this past week, the temp has been around -5F (-20C) evenings and 17F/-8C in sunshine. I do hope the lack of storms does not happen, as I did not plan to own a global warming "dust collector". I do want to say that not all resellers of snow blower machines are as conscientious as you. My machine was delivered as a unpacking from the factory, no lubrication, except for some oil a bit below the first hole in the dipstick. Using your videos, my machine is ready to go. Take care.
I always keep fresh fuel in it (trufuel-no water). I would be more concerned with the carburetor float or carburetor pin impeded by rust particles that develop from the empty bowl and inevitable moisture that remains with regular fuel. try trufuel for summer storage. No moisture, unless you pull off the carb and spray it with carb cleaner. great comments posted here too.
Do you have a tip on preventing rust from forming in a steel tank like what is on an Arien. I always drained my tank when I had a blower with a plastic tank but with a metal tank I have found that rust forms. So what I do now is turn off the fuel and burn off what is in the carb and then add Seafoam to the full tank of gas while in storage. I have friens who have had bad rust problems in metal tanks. What is your opinion? BTW I live in Newfoundland Canada. Thanks for your videos.
No way to really escape it! I drain the gas right at the end of the season and leave the cap on loosely to let vapors vent out. Then when I open her up in the spring she’s dry. No rust in mine as far as I can see! Could always replace the tank every few years too! Thanks for watching! 👍
I syphon the gas out (non ethanol) I then use it in my mower or generator sometimes my car depends. Then I start my snow blower and let it stall. At that point I open the bleed screw on my carb to drain anything in the bowl. Pull the plug and squirt a shot of WD40 in the cylinder. Pull it over a time or two. Reinstall the plug. re-tighten the bleed screw, Change the oil and add a fresh qt. of synthetic 10w30. Next season add fresh non ethanol and she starts right up.
Hey I would love to learn how and where you sold your excess tools from your garage reno video. I have many duplicated tools that I want to sell. the wife insists I reduce my current tool box. Thanks Love the videos.
Hey Scott appreciate you bud! I sold many of my tools on Craigslist and fb marketplace. I spread them out in groups and took pictures and priced them out. Cleared out a lot of extras and made some decent money in the process which helped fund some of the other items in the garage. People are always looking for tools! Thanks for watching
A good protective spray is Cosmolean, excellent stuff. Teflon spray is better because WD, Pam etc stop snow clogging shoot, because it not good in very cold weather, it solidifies. Great video, our blowers are on 30+ years a Noma and Craftsman.
Fogging is a good idea but I’ve been using these methods for decades without failure and never found it truly necessary. I prefer to change the oil when it’s dirty and not have it sit like that. This way I put it to bed with clean oil and all contaminants/particulates are out of it. Thanks for checking out my channel!
Nice video, thanks. I need ya to clean my house, hard to believe that machine is seven years old it's so fresh looking. I always fog all my engines via my carburetor while running for complete internal protection form moisture before storage and then drain the fuel and then the cylinder(s) get a couple good shots of fogging spray, a few pulls on the recoil, and then stopping at TDC.
Haha thanks James! Spraying it down often with a protectant during the season goes a long way. Those also some great tips you provided. Thanks for sharing! 👍
One thing I really like with Toro snowblowers is that they come with anti-seize on the axles. I do like how Ariens put the oil drain plug towards the back of the machine where it is easy to drain. I’ve worked on many snowblowers with Tecumseh Snow King engines on them and their drain plugs are just above the left wheel. You pretty much have to use a funnel to channel the oil to the pan and it can be a bit of a hassle.
I have an Aries 24" that I bought from an Aries dealer 4 years ago and the oil drain is over the wheel. I made a funnel out of sheet metal to channel the oil into the drain pan. What a dumb design to put it there.
Hey Corey! In that case it becomes a time issue. I would change it out. You can never go wrong changing the oil once a year no matter what! Thanks for watching!
Well done sir, I would use brake clean on the friction disc in the rubber wheel to give you the most amount of traction. I would also use ceramic spray and all of the orange outside spots.
Hey Phil! Your owners manual will tell you how much oil to put in or you can fill it up between the lines on the end of the dip stick. Thanks for watching!
Great video, Man.....question: other videos recommend removing the shear bolts and using a grease gun to grease the auger grease fittings. Thoughts on that?
Thanks Joe! Here’s a video to help answer your question HOW TO GREASE AUGERS ON AN ARIENS SNOWBLOWER (Save A Gear Case) ruclips.net/video/GZ6l7fB_tOA/видео.html👍
@@GarageGear Thanks....did that today. My 1-year old Ariens has 2 fittings and I greased them both. However, it didn't allow me to pump very much in. In fact, when I re-installed the shear bolts, a fair amount of grease pushed back out the holes. Any idea why it only would take a small amount of grease? I tried greasing a second time (as you recommend in the video) but it wouldn't take any.
Your videos rule, JB! I noticed that the manual says to lube the chain in the gearbox with oil, but you use grease. Is there an advantage to that? Thanks!
Good vid!! I m getting ready to start my big Craftsman snowblower in a few days. Gonna do some of the stuff you showed. Doin some because a few of the things you showed I already do! Lol! Very detailed and to the point.
Great video!! Thoughts on getting the weight off of the wheels during the summer? I usually put a cinder block underneath the back area to take the weight off of the wheels.
Hey S! Lifting up the back end isn’t a bad idea. If I were to store my blower for longer than six months I would consider it. I never really found this to be a problem though during a typical storage season! Thanks for watching!
What do you do for the electric start if it only makes a humming soundwhen you try to engage it it feels rather warm to the touch. I pull started it and then shut it down but still won't turn the motor over. Pull cord rips out of your hand unless you use both hands. Brand new blower last fall Power Smart I purchased it after watching your video last year.
I largely did this same thing but I guess I have gotten lucky with Stabil and non-ethanol gas because I went 20 years on my old toro that I just replaced this year. Still started on first pull. My new one says to drain the gas and carb so I will be doing that from now on.
Hey arkie! I always found it better to change it at the end of the season. Get the garbage out at the end so nothing sits in the engine all summer long! 👍
Very informative video. My tip Tires need protection too. I coat any rubber/plastic with 303 Aerospace Protectant. First saw it used on Sweet Project Cars saving the tires and wiper blades adding years of life to rubber parts.
Great video. Might drain oil but not add it until dine with rest. Fill oil after tipping unit up and then it won't drain into areas its not meant to be.
Wondering have you ever sprayed out or down the carburetor's internally with carb cleaner when removing the remainder of the fuel in the bowel. Or taken the bowel off completely and again spray the internals of the carb just to remove any leftover fuel that has left a wet surface when draining the bowel. Love the vid's, step by step, and explanation of what you are doing. 👏👏👏👏👍✌️🙃🇨🇦
Hey Christopher! Never went that far with it because I never had an issue. It’s a good procedure just a bit overkill in my opinion. If I was having issues perhaps I would take this step. Thanks for the positive feedback! 👍
Great video, thank you!!! I especially appreciated the Scotty Kilmer-style photo illustrations, lol. This is an ultimate guide to snowblower maintenance and corrosion prevention!!! I have a PowerSmart blower too. How do you like yours?
Maxim’s DIY Garage Thanks for the feedback bud! I love Scotty kilmers editing! Yes I stole his methods lol! I think it adds something to each video! I recently sold the PowerSmart snowblower. I used it for a couple of videos. Here’s a link to one. ruclips.net/video/WR-n6QE-hSw/видео.html Enjoy and thanks for watching!
I also saw some ChrisFix influence with the straight-to-the-point speaking cadence and the emphatic hand gesturing in front of the camera. No complaints here. Good tutorial. Thanks for sharing!
Ok so I've a question not sure if it's been addressed. In the winter the city plows dump tons of snow at the end of my drive. Invariably it's going to have some sort of salt in it. Shouldn't or how should the machines be rinsed down.
Hey John! End of the season I usually do a thorough cleaning but during the season I spray it all down with a protective spray like liquid wrench rust inhibitor or wd40 to prevent rust. I usually spray it every other time I use it. Thanks for watching
Great vid, man. Only thing I do differently is to use a siphon pump to empty the tank into a gas can before I start. That way, it runs out of gas in about 45 seconds. I will then add a small amount (4oz or so) of ethanol-free gas (like Tru-Fuel) and let that run out, then drain the carb.
Thank you for all your videos, very professionnal!! I learn a lot of think with Garage Gear. I had a problem with one of my wheel of my Aeriens Platinium 24. The wheel is seize! Someone have a proposition to remove the wheel went we have a problem of seizing. Thank you folk.
I have heated it with a torch for about a minute or two and then poured ice cold water on it. The temperature change usually breaks the bonds. Give it a shot and let me know if it works for you! Thanks for watching!
I run the gas out of mine just like you do, but the gas I do run out is treated with Stabil. I guess even if you run it dry, some bad gas will cling to all the carb metal.
On my way 43rd season on my Ariens snow blower one thing I do after running it dry pull plug and roll over with some motor oil in cylinder smokes a little at first start but then again I'm on my 43rd season
In the Navy we call this PMS Preventive Maintenance Schedule. Great Job.
Thanks a lot Theodore! Always better to be proactive rather than reactive! Thanks for checking out my channel!
PMCS - Preventative Maintenance Checks and Services for us in the Army. Every Monday is motor pool day Army wide where we do PMCS on all the HMMWV:Humvees, 5 tons, 10 tons, trailers, etc. it’s basically to keep the vehicles running since they do a lot of sitting until they get used for a convoy, training mission or deployment, and to catch any issues before they happen or before they progress. I spent a great deal of time in the Army so now it’s a part of me, I do PMCS on my lawn equipment, snow blower, generator, etc. and I never have trouble starting my equipment right up.
My mom bought an Ariens ST824 back in 1993, it doesn't ask questions, starts every time. I took your advice and prop up the blade after every use. Has minimal rust on the corners. It's 30 years old and looks 10. I love your passion for Ariens snow blowers!
Appreciate you D! Thanks for being a cool fan!
man thats some dedication to the machine!
I like to make them last
Good video. A couple of comments:
Firstly, when removing the oil drain plug you should consider putting another wrench on the pipe (that’s why there is a flat section) to stop the pipe from turning. I know you were gentle but if you use another wrench this will prevent any problems.
Secondly, I have a similar model (Professional 28”) with a Briggs & Stratton engine. The procedure you followed would not drain all the old oil out of my blower.
To get all the old oil out I put a pan in place and then lean the blower all the way back until it rests on its handles. Once no more oil is dripping out, I then raise it back to level and tilt it all the way back again. Yet more oil will come out. I have to do this 8 to 10+ times to finally get all the old oil out. I also shake it a bit when I am lowering it back down.
Thanks for sharing
Not a bad idea to remove the spark plug and use some engine fogging spray and pull the starter rope a couple of times to coat the cylinder walls so they remain clean and rust free. Works for me, anyway.
Great tip! I’ll have to get some! Thanks for checking out my channel!
@@jackiebigd4224 yeah it’s not a bad idea to give that a shot!
Can use WD-40 too if you don't have any fogger.
@@wangdangdo4585 never heard of using wd-40 as a fogger? Is this safe?
@@GarageGear WD breaks down oil, I just use a tablespoon of oil crank piston a few times leave piston on top
Love your videos! Everytime I have a maintenance question or curious how to preserve the life of my machines, you're able to explain it so simply. You've saved me a ton of money. Thank you so much for helping us non-mechanical people. Haha
That’s exactly what this channel is here for Thayne! Thanks for being a cool fan!👍
Bought a Toro 2 stage 2 years ago. I watched your video at the end of the winter last year and again this year. I think by next year I'll have it all memorized. Thank you!
Awesome Gregdoh! You’ll have the best running machine on the block! Thanks for watching and for being a a cool fan!
Garage Gear I’m new to owning a snowblower and am very thankful you started this channel. I’ve learned so much from just a few videos. Thanks!
Awesome to hear Daniel! Knowledge is power and I’m more than happy to share it! Thanks for watching my friend!
Nice! This is just what I needed. Just bought a 2 stage 208cc snowblower from Lowes a few days ago. Now I know how to properly summerize it during the Summer. Gonna add this to my favorites list.
There ya go! Do these steps and watch how easy it is to start in the winter next year! Enjoy using your new snowblower!
@@GarageGear thanks man! 👍
@@ahwayzcool4630 you got it!
I'm glad I happen to come across your video. It is the BEST video on how to summarize your Snow Blower. I learned a lot.
Awesome kw! Glad this video helped you out!
I have never done any of this. I use high octane fuel with no ethanol little stabil. and put it away. I have a 1983 STIHL Wood Boss chain saw my Dad bought new. I was putting my mowers and stuff away for winter and I thought I better check that saw. It had been 2 years since that saw had been started. Full of 2 year old fuel started right up and ran great. Dumped the fuel put some new fuel in added a little stabil ran her good and put her away again. Who knows what's right just do what works for you. Great video and love your channel.
Thanks for the positive feedback Delbert! Thanks for sharing! 👍
14:32 I like to change the oil BEFORE and AFTER the gas run-out stage to really get that old ugly oil out. Also, leave the carb nut off for a bit to help the little bit of gas in the bowl evaporate.
Good tips thanks for sharing william
Good tips, i also grease the augers and drive chains as well as take out the spark plug and spray in some engine storage spray, give it a few pulls and bring piston to top. I also get some white lithium grease spray and hit all lever connections, snorkel gears and a bit inside the cables. Up here it gets really cold and I've never had a frozen cable doing this.
Good tips my friend! Thanks for sharing!
Great tips thanks! I've been doing mostly the same but never thought about the easy piston pull trick. I think a really important thing I don't recall you mentioning is storing it in neutral to prevent flat spots forming on the rubber friction disk.
Mine is tracked and I store it in a barn outside with a gravel floor. I keep it on a pallet that is easy to pick up and move with the tractor if I need to. I also put a light dust cover over it but not a full cover or I find it attracts mice. I'll plug a dummy plug into the the starter plug to keep spider nests out. I lube into all my cables and control linkages, and a few things specific to tracks.
Running a '97 Yamaha YS828TE, still starts first or second pull every time after heavy heavy use. Can't say enough good things about it.
Rock'o'chimp ! Hey bud, thanks for all the great feedback! Sounds like I’m not the only one who likes to spend a little extra time maintaining their equipment! All good tips on your end! Especially with the cables. On my snowblower the friction disk is always in neutral until you pull the lever down so it’s not touching the plate. But I like how you are a forward thinker to prevent the flat spots. Is that only a track drive thing? Thanks for watching!
Yes, Very, very thorough!! Small details are so IMPORTANT!
Incredibly important! Thanks for checking out my channel!
Good video on basic maintenance. My PM routine includes checking the belts for wear/fraying before putting it to bed for the summer and always keep a spare set on hand. I also use a turkey baster to remove most of the gas from the tank so it doesn't run very long before it runs dry.
Good tips here! I check my belts once or twice a season so that’s why I didn’t include that in this clip. Thanks for checking out my channel!
Turkey baster is brilliant!
If you have a full tank, the turkey baster method can still be tedious. I bought a battery powered pump called a TeraPump that I use to remove gas from my tank. Saves a lot of time - and I can re-use the winter gas when I start up my lawn tractor in the spring. The pump costs about $30 but I use it to transfer fuel in and out of all my power equipment, assuring that when it's laid up, the tank is always empty.
Love your content. Detailed and to the point. So many other guys wanna tell you about their day before the actual Video.
Hey John, no fluff here in these videos! Pretty straight forward on this channel! Thanks for watching!
A couple of points: 1) Synthetic oil should only be used on an engine that has been broken in for at least 50 running hours with regular oil. 2) WD40 was designed by the space industry to prevent rust on the re-entry rockets that parachute down into the ocean. I once did an experiment with a couple of steel nails. One sprayed with WD40 and one without, both left outside. The untreated nail had rust showing the next day. The one with WD40 went a full six months without any rust.
Thanks for sharing!
I no longer use a snow blower but I do the same thing with the gas on my generator and my garden tractor. has never failed me.I also put fuel shutoffs on all my equipment. Good video
Thanks a lot Ted!! You ROCK! Thanks for checking out my channel!
Very strong work ethics.
@@Mr.Titanium1911 thanks for watching me. Titanium
Thanks for all the tips you have shared in your snowblower videos.
I am used to winterizing, but have never thought of summerizing until I bought a snowblower this winter
Oh yeah! These little steps go a long way! Give ‘em a shot and let me know how it goes! Thanks for checking out my channel!
Always good to have your old catalogs of videos for reference. 👍
They’ll be handy for years to come and they ain’t going nowhere!👍
Agreed with the comment of lubing the augers. Also, adjust skid shoes/scraper for proper clearance, as they wear during use. Instead of WD40 for a wipe down and cleaning, I use diesel fuel and a rag. A gallon goes a long way, and leaves it shiny with protective oil coating (an old Army tracked vehicle maintenance trick I learned back my enlisted days). Rock on!
That’s an awesome tip! Thanks for watching!
I too have never used fuel stabilizer on my snow-thro…my Ariens is now 22 years old (1999) and have always run it dry of fuel then drained the float bowl and NEVER had any issues starting it come winter…it still runs like a champ.
Hey Terry! It’s a solid plan! There’s still a chance of an issue if you use stabilizer. Drain it out and worry less I say! Thanks for watching bud! 👍
You did a very nice job, just a couple of suggestions though.
1. You’re right, it is VERY important not to get any lubrication on the pressure plate. I would have used something a little thicker than a paper towel. Cut a square from an old pizza box, that works well.
2. Since you were planning on tipping the snowblower up to get at the gear box, I would have waited to pour in the new oil until you were done with the rest of the maintenance and cleaning.
Good tips! I was going a little overboard with some of the maintenance tips for the average homeowner but I think viewers got the idea! Thanks for watching John!
Well you said you tried stabil and it never worked the same after. I've never done anything to my snowblower for 17 years and it starts like a charm every year, I can't imagine doing anything different and getting a better result.
Sounds like you bought the 1/1million machine! Lol every year my machine sits for over 6 months and I know it would have issues if I left it untouched. Thanks for checking out my channel!
My best $17 spent was for a snow thrower cover, tarps always get blown off unless you tie down every side. I store the covered snow thrower in a corner of our carport. Keeps dirt and bird/spider poo off the machine. I put also moth balls in an old sock and hang next to the engine shroud to deter mice nesting.
Good tips for storing outside! Thanks for checking out my channel!
What a snow blower lover.
Guilty as charged! Thanks for being a cool fan of the channel!
Absolutely EXCELLENT advise. The only thing I do slightly different, is use copper based anti-seize, I think it works better than the silver stuff. For the folks that are worried about the WD40 contaminating the environment, use nonstick cooking spray, and Fluid Film. Fluid Film is a non-toxic lanolin oil based product, so it won't harm the environment.
Appreciate you pagan! Thanks for sharing!
You should remove the auger shear bolts and gears the auger shaft, spin the auger then reinstall the shear bolts, check auger gear box grease level, add if necessary! Also engage the choke.
All good tips! Thanks for checking out my channel!
Heres a tip I do with all my 2 cycle / 4 cycle toys........Use Super gas. When season is over i never empty my gas or gas/oil mixture. But on a bi weekly basis I start my toys for a few minutes. Then when I need them they all start 1st pull.
Thanks for sharing nitegambler!
Great video. I clean the friction disc with a 3M scrub pad and brake cleaner The rubber from the drive builds up after a few seasons.
That’s a great tip! Thanks for sharing! Thanks for checking out my channel!
What a great video. I just bought a new snowblower and will do this each year to make it last.
Your snowblower will thank you! Thanks for checking out my channel!👍
Very thorough maintenance, satisfying to watch! I bet that machine will last for 20 winters if you continue in that fashion.
Sean Sweeney hey bud, I like to be thorough with my equipment. I like to think of it as “planned repairs” at a convenient time rather than deal with “unplanned repairs” at an inconvenient time. Thanks for watching!
You did a great job. With all of that belt burn off on your belly pan you might want to check your belts for wear ? On my machine I replaced both after finding this burn off. Had a couple of really bad storms in a row 94-95? Wore out a couple of components and had to do some work to get it up and running again. Mines a 10 horse. Last year I took the blower end off and did a paint job while re-greasing the bearings. I moved a lot of snow with that blower. It still looks new, garage kept.
Hey Al, thanks for commenting! Funny that you mentioned the belts! My next video is on replacing the belts. It’s coming out Saturday! Haven’t replace the belts in a number of years! Stay tuned for that! Your snowblower must throw like a champ! Thanks for watching! 👍
Buy some Fogging oil spray, remove spark plug and spray the cylinder to prevent rust.
Good tip! Thanks for sharing! 👍
I do the same thing to my engine, except with WD-40. A good squirt in the cylinder, pull through once or twice, then put the plug back in. Last thing before parking.
FYI for Canadian viewers, Premium grade gasoline (91 octane) is pure gasoline (E-0) up here.
@@paulmoffat9306 good tip! Thanks for sharing!
I never "fog" any of my equipment. If I were storing them for a few years, then yes. But for seasonal storage, (4-6 months) I find this completely unnecessary.
Best Video I’ve seen for a very long time.
Thank you for the very clear and very simple storage instructions.
Saved your video for future ‘Summer-izing of my Snowblower’.
You have a new loyal subscriber 👍🏻
Thanks a lot Gary! I appreciate the positive feedback! 👍
Just purchased the new Ariens Deluxe 28”. Thanks for making this video your preventive maintenance is thorough and I will follow your steps closely. Go Rambo!
Hey Carmine, you my friend made a smart purchase. They are great snowblowers! Have fun! And thanks for watching!
The neighbors gotta love this!
Larry Morris the neighbors and I are still on speaking terms lol!
Have an Ariens that's 30 yrs old have always used stabilizer with no issues. Now I use Amsoil stabilizer. Rebuilding the under carriage, new gears ,sprocket,chain, friction wheel, drive shaft , going to use axle bearings instead of bushings.
The old ones are built to last! Thanks for watching! 👍
@@GarageGear ordered all parts online
Last night. Jack's small engine. Cheaper than a new snowblower
@@alanjenkins7346 there ya go my friend! Have fun!!! Keep me posted on how well it works when you’re all done!
I always take a metal can take a old can opener and poke about six slots in the bottom, fill it with mothballs put a lid on it and keep it on top or make two and put it in the bottom as well to keep mice away.
Thanks for sharing richard
Excellent video. Your attention to detail is greatly appreciated.
You got it Bill! Thanks for watching my friend! 👍
Review this video year when I do the maintence job. Thank you very much! Super helpful.
Awesome Yan! Thanks for watching my friend!
Good stuff. I would add block up that scraper so it never rests on the floor. Never.
@@stevec.2924 good tip!
When I store my snow blower, I put 1 ounce of fresh motor oil in the spark plug hole. Then I get a rag and put it in front of the spark plug hole and pull the statter rope 5 or 6 times. Then I screw in the old spark plug hand tight. Next season I'll put a new plug in. Make sure you have oil in the crank case when pulling the starter rope.
Thanks for sharing Gabriele
I was told that while running the gas tank to zero is great, it will still leave gas in the carburetor. Removing gas from the carburetor is great if it is easy to do. I was told that run it to zero, then put in a little All Season Fuel from one of the major manufacturers (like Toro, Honda, etc.) That way you are guaranteed that the fuel sitting in there is clear of those detergents, ethanol, and whatever else the gas station is putting in it. I like this video as does seem to cover everything, however. Thank you.
I hear what you’re saying Sam! I’ve always been a fan of getting every drop out. Nothing can possibly screw up your engine that way. Thanks for watching! 👍
What a great video! I own two Ariens 28" machines and they've served me well, one for 9 years and the other for 5. I too run out the winter season's ethanol gasoline, but on a tip from my dealer, I put in just a small amount of aviation gas and run the machine for a 10-15 seconds to get the av-gas into the carb. Aviation gas does not contain ethanol, it's ~104 octane and and I was told it has a 4-5 year shelf life.
It’s also leaded.
Interesting tip! thanks of watching Tom!
@@tuiflies5869 Jesus man, we're not talking sinkers out of a tackle box. And it's LL, which means 'low lead'.
Thank you for making & posting this video. All good tips on the storage prep.
No problem Tony! Glad you found this video helpful! Thanks for watching! 👍
thx for the info....i bought a new snowblower this winter...i’ll be doing that same maintenance this spring....
It’s a good plan and your snowblower will thank you! Thanks for checking out my channel! 👍
Excellent presentation!
Not every day does the friendly neighborhood Spider-Man leave a comment on my videos lol! Thanks for checking out my channel!👍
I’ve had good luck using premium, ethanol free fuel that I add Sta-Bil to when I fill the gas can. That way the fuel is stabilized from the get go. Since I use the same gas can for the lawn mower, I’ve never had it go bad.
Thanks for sharing John!
What I do for my lawnmower is also what I do for the snowblower.
I tilt the machine so that the sparkplug is facing the ceiling. I remove the plug and add a teaspoon of oil in the plug hole.
I crank the machine by hand a few times to distribute the oil, and with a pencil, I do the crank to get the cylinder to top-dead-centre. I check out the plug for fouling, and if it is good, it is reinserted, otherwise I purchase and install a new spark plug.
Do not put more than one tablespoon of oil into the cylinder before replacing the plug, otherwise starting at the next season will be difficult. In the months that go by, the oil will leak down between the piston rings and the piston into the crankcase.
By the way, I also use some 2x4 lumber to raise the snowblower off the tires. I just don't want an out-of-round for the tires.
Second reason, If the machine is not moved for some months, the black in the tire will transfer onto the floor.
I do like your drive train maintenance. Thank you for showing it.
Great tips here Leslie! Thanks for your positive feedback! Thanks for watching! 👍
@@GarageGear Happy New Year, keep safe from the viruses.
In past years ago, yes, 50 ago when I got married, we would have a foot of snow by 15 November. in 1968, we ended up with two storms leaving 6 feet of snow.
Over the past 50 years since, the first snow would appear later and later in the year. This year, it is Jan 5, and while there has been a dusting, it is not enough to take the blower out.
Global warming is taking away the fun of using the snow blower. But here in Montreal, where I live, global warming does not mean warmer weather. For example, this past week, the temp has been around -5F (-20C) evenings and 17F/-8C in sunshine. I do hope the lack of storms does not happen, as I did not plan to own a global warming "dust collector".
I do want to say that not all resellers of snow blower machines are as conscientious as you. My machine was delivered as a unpacking from the factory, no lubrication, except for some oil a bit below the first hole in the dipstick. Using your videos, my machine is ready to go.
Take care.
@@lsatenstein glad you’re finding all of these video helpful Leslie! 👍👍👍
I always keep fresh fuel in it (trufuel-no water). I would be more concerned with the carburetor float or carburetor pin impeded by rust particles that develop from the empty bowl and inevitable moisture that remains with regular fuel. try trufuel for summer storage. No moisture, unless you pull off the carb and spray it with carb cleaner. great comments posted here too.
Thanks for sharing and watching roogermoore1!
Thanks for the heads-up.
👍you got it John!!! Thanks for checking out my channel!
Awesome I just purchased one now I know what to do I appreciate it.
No problem my friend! Thanks for watching Derrick! 👍
JB I love your videos. They help me a ton. Out here in the suburbs of Chicago.
ROCK ON MARK! Thanks for watching! 👍
most helpful video regarding summer storage. Thank you
Glad you found this video helpful Holly! Thanks for checking out my channel!
Do you have a tip on preventing rust from forming in a steel tank like what is on an Arien. I always drained my tank when I had a blower with a plastic tank but with a metal tank I have found that rust forms. So what I do now is turn off the fuel and burn off what is in the carb and then add Seafoam to the full tank of gas while in storage. I have friens who have had bad rust problems in metal tanks. What is your opinion? BTW I live in Newfoundland Canada. Thanks for your videos.
No way to really escape it! I drain the gas right at the end of the season and leave the cap on loosely to let vapors vent out. Then when I open her up in the spring she’s dry. No rust in mine as far as I can see! Could always replace the tank every few years too! Thanks for watching! 👍
I normally change the spark plug at the same time after the winter Maintenace
Thanks for sharing!
I syphon the gas out (non ethanol) I then use it in my mower or generator sometimes my car depends. Then I start my snow blower and let it stall. At that point I open the bleed screw on my carb to drain anything in the bowl. Pull the plug and squirt a shot of WD40 in the cylinder. Pull it over a time or two. Reinstall the plug. re-tighten the bleed screw, Change the oil and add a fresh qt. of synthetic 10w30. Next season add fresh non ethanol and she starts right up.
Perfect! Thanks for sharing William!
Hey I would love to learn how and where you sold your excess tools from your garage reno video. I have many duplicated tools that I want to sell. the wife insists I reduce my current tool box. Thanks Love the videos.
Hey Scott appreciate you bud! I sold many of my tools on Craigslist and fb marketplace. I spread them out in groups and took pictures and priced them out. Cleared out a lot of extras and made some decent money in the process which helped fund some of the other items in the garage. People are always looking for tools! Thanks for watching
Thanks for the share, Great Job!!!
You got it! Thanks for watching!
A good protective spray is Cosmolean, excellent stuff. Teflon spray is better because WD, Pam etc stop snow clogging shoot, because it not good in very cold weather, it solidifies. Great video, our blowers are on 30+ years a Noma and Craftsman.
Thanks for sharing Alex!
Love your channel. Love it even more now that I see you're a Jeeper👍
Haha thank you Derek! We have had a Jeep in the driveway for about 7-8 years now! Thanks for being a cool fan!
two questions... why don't you fog the cylinder and why not wait till fall to change the oil?
Great video... thanks
Fogging is a good idea but I’ve been using these methods for decades without failure and never found it truly necessary. I prefer to change the oil when it’s dirty and not have it sit like that. This way I put it to bed with clean oil and all contaminants/particulates are out of it. Thanks for checking out my channel!
Nice work and useful tips. Cheers. 🇨🇦👍🏼
Preventative maintenance is key! Thanks for watching Barry! 👍
Nice video, thanks. I need ya to clean my house, hard to believe that machine is seven years old it's so fresh looking. I always fog all my engines via my carburetor while running for complete internal protection form moisture before storage and then drain the fuel and then the cylinder(s) get a couple good shots of fogging spray, a few pulls on the recoil, and then stopping at TDC.
Haha thanks James! Spraying it down often with a protectant during the season goes a long way. Those also some great tips you provided. Thanks for sharing! 👍
Very good maintenance job. Thank you I learn a lot from you
Hey Gianni! Appreciate the positive feedback! Thanks for watching! 👍
One thing I really like with Toro snowblowers is that they come with anti-seize on the axles. I do like how Ariens put the oil drain plug towards the back of the machine where it is easy to drain. I’ve worked on many snowblowers with Tecumseh Snow King engines on them and their drain plugs are just above the left wheel. You pretty much have to use a funnel to channel the oil to the pan and it can be a bit of a hassle.
Yeah I’ve seen that side spout before and saw a guy use a 2 liter bottle with a cut out as a make shift funnel and it seemed to work well.
I have an Aries 24" that I bought from an Aries dealer 4 years ago and the oil drain is over the wheel. I made a funnel out of sheet metal to channel the oil into the drain pan. What a dumb design to put it there.
@@robertmallett5955 yea I agree it’s a dumb design that’s just asking for a mess!
Would you recommend changing your oil at the end of season if you only used it two or three times due to lack of snow?
Hey Corey! In that case it becomes a time issue. I would change it out. You can never go wrong changing the oil once a year no matter what! Thanks for watching!
Perfect video, very well explained. I appreciate it!
You got it Isa! 👍 thanks for checking out my channel!
Props for the "Frank Castle" sticker, good solid info prepping matters!
Big fan of the punisher Lyle! Prepping matters for sure! Thanks for watching!👍
Great video!!!! Well done!! Thanks for the extra tips👍👍👍
You got it Matrix! Thanks for watching!
Well done sir, I would use brake clean on the friction disc in the rubber wheel to give you the most amount of traction. I would also use ceramic spray and all of the orange outside spots.
Good tips my friend! Thanks for checking out my channel! 👍
so this is what me neighbor is doing that annoys the entire neighborhood for a like an hour near the start of summer....lol thank you
Lol yep now you know lol! Thanks for watching!
Excellent video brother question I have is the amount of oil recommended to put back in once you drain the old oil thks
Hey Phil! Your owners manual will tell you how much oil to put in or you can fill it up between the lines on the end of the dip stick. Thanks for watching!
Great video, Man.....question: other videos recommend removing the shear bolts and using a grease gun to grease the auger grease fittings. Thoughts on that?
Thanks Joe! Here’s a video to help answer your question HOW TO GREASE AUGERS ON AN ARIENS SNOWBLOWER (Save A Gear Case)
ruclips.net/video/GZ6l7fB_tOA/видео.html👍
@@GarageGear Thanks....did that today. My 1-year old Ariens has 2 fittings and I greased them both. However, it didn't allow me to pump very much in. In fact, when I re-installed the shear bolts, a fair amount of grease pushed back out the holes. Any idea why it only would take a small amount of grease? I tried greasing a second time (as you recommend in the video) but it wouldn't take any.
@@joemarchand8313 hey Joe it probably had a good amount of grease already inside. Sounds like you’re all good to go!
Very thorough.
Thanks for watching Stephen!
Your videos rule, JB! I noticed that the manual says to lube the chain in the gearbox with oil, but you use grease. Is there an advantage to that? Thanks!
In my experience both work fine. Never an issue using a little grease. Thanks for watching and appreciate the positive feedback!
Good vid!! I m getting ready to start my big Craftsman snowblower in a few days. Gonna do some of the stuff you showed. Doin some because a few of the things you showed I already do! Lol! Very detailed and to the point.
Thanks a lot Adrian! I appreciate the positive feedback! I got plenty more content here on the channel! Be sure to check it out! Thanks for watching!
@@GarageGear no worries brother. I just serviced it today. Plus did a few of the tips on it that you showed on this vid!! Thanks again!!
Great video!! Thoughts on getting the weight off of the wheels during the summer? I usually put a cinder block underneath the back area to take the weight off of the wheels.
Hey S! Lifting up the back end isn’t a bad idea. If I were to store my blower for longer than six months I would consider it. I never really found this to be a problem though during a typical storage season! Thanks for watching!
Excellent tips. Thank you sir!
Thanks a lot Nick! Thanks for checking out my channel!
GREAT VIDEO!!!! Getting ready to buy an Ariens and wanted an idea of the long term maintenance and this was PERFECT!!!! Thank you.
Thanks a lot Aaron! Ariens makes a great snowblower that is relatively easy to work on. Thanks for checking out my channel!
Hi you videos have helped tremendously thank you….do u have one that summarizes power smart snow blower that u have
Hey Eb, these procedures are the same for just about any snowblower. I do not have one specifically for that snowblower. Thanks for watching!
What do you do for the electric start if it only makes a humming soundwhen you try to engage it it feels rather warm to the touch. I pull started it and then shut it down but still won't turn the motor over. Pull cord rips out of your hand unless you use both hands. Brand new blower last fall Power Smart I purchased it after watching your video last year.
Sounds like the electric start may be broken. If it’s under warranty I would have it fixed
Very informative, got a lot of useful info. Thanks
Glad you found this video helpful John! Thanks for watching!
I largely did this same thing but I guess I have gotten lucky with Stabil and non-ethanol gas because I went 20 years on my old toro that I just replaced this year. Still started on first pull. My new one says to drain the gas and carb so I will be doing that from now on.
It’s a safe plan! Can’t go wrong with it! Thanks for checking out my channel!
Is it better to change the oil at the end of the season, or at the start? Or does it not matter?
Hey arkie! I always found it better to change it at the end of the season. Get the garbage out at the end so nothing sits in the engine all summer long! 👍
Very informative video. My tip Tires need protection too. I coat any rubber/plastic with 303 Aerospace Protectant. First saw it used on Sweet Project Cars saving the tires and wiper blades adding years of life to rubber parts.
Very interesting! I’m gonna check this out! Thanks for checking out my channel!
Great video. Might drain oil but not add it until dine with rest. Fill oil after tipping unit up and then it won't drain into areas its not meant to be.
Sounds like a good plan! Thanks for checking out my channel!
Wondering have you ever sprayed out or down the carburetor's internally with carb cleaner when removing the remainder of the fuel in the bowel. Or taken the bowel off completely and again spray the internals of the carb just to remove any leftover fuel that has left a wet surface when draining the bowel. Love the vid's, step by step, and explanation of what you are doing. 👏👏👏👏👍✌️🙃🇨🇦
Hey Christopher! Never went that far with it because I never had an issue. It’s a good procedure just a bit overkill in my opinion. If I was having issues perhaps I would take this step. Thanks for the positive feedback! 👍
Great video I’m going to do this in spring
Awesome! You’ll be happy you did! Let me know how it goes for ya! 👍
Nicely done. 👌
Thank you! I appreciate the feedback! Thanks for checking out my channel Patel Family!
Great video, thank you!!! I especially appreciated the Scotty Kilmer-style photo illustrations, lol. This is an ultimate guide to snowblower maintenance and corrosion prevention!!! I have a PowerSmart blower too. How do you like yours?
Maxim’s DIY Garage Thanks for the feedback bud! I love Scotty kilmers editing! Yes I stole his methods lol! I think it adds something to each video! I recently sold the PowerSmart snowblower. I used it for a couple of videos. Here’s a link to one. ruclips.net/video/WR-n6QE-hSw/видео.html Enjoy and thanks for watching!
I also saw some ChrisFix influence with the straight-to-the-point speaking cadence and the emphatic hand gesturing in front of the camera. No complaints here. Good tutorial. Thanks for sharing!
Ok so I've a question not sure if it's been addressed.
In the winter the city plows dump tons of snow at the end of my drive. Invariably it's going to have some sort of salt in it. Shouldn't or how should the machines be rinsed down.
Hey John! End of the season I usually do a thorough cleaning but during the season I spray it all down with a protective spray like liquid wrench rust inhibitor or wd40 to prevent rust. I usually spray it every other time I use it. Thanks for watching
Great vid, man.
Only thing I do differently is to use a siphon pump to empty the tank into a gas can before I start.
That way, it runs out of gas in about 45 seconds. I will then add a small amount (4oz or so) of ethanol-free gas (like Tru-Fuel) and let that run out, then drain the carb.
Great tip Paul! Thanks for checking out my channel!
@@GarageGear No problem!
You can find those siphon pumps cheap on Amazon. I don’t know what I’d do without mine now. Lol
@@paulmysliborski4832 I will definitely be checking these out Paul! Thanks for sharing!
I use a turkey baster with same end result
@@Ivan-zh8mh thank you for sharing! 👍
Nice thorough overview...
Thanks conquest! Thanks for checking out my channel!!
Thank you for all your videos, very professionnal!! I learn a lot of think with Garage Gear. I had a problem with one of my wheel of my Aeriens Platinium 24. The wheel is seize! Someone have a proposition to remove the wheel went we have a problem of seizing. Thank you folk.
I have heated it with a torch for about a minute or two and then poured ice cold water on it. The temperature change usually breaks the bonds. Give it a shot and let me know if it works for you! Thanks for watching!
I run the gas out of mine just like you do, but the gas I do run out is treated with Stabil. I guess even if you run it dry, some bad gas will cling to all the carb metal.
If you empty the carburetor bowl you shouldn’t have an issue👍
On my way 43rd season on my Ariens snow blower one thing I do after running it dry pull plug and roll over with some motor oil in cylinder smokes a little at first start but then again I'm on my 43rd season
Thanks for sharing!