Hiya Mate! I just found ur chanel, I had a job scrapping the copper from old electric motors & we would heat them up in an oven for 2 hours,Chisel off one end of the copper wire then use a air atuated ram conected to a set of poly grips with chain to pull from the other end.The hardest part was waiting for the oven to heat them up.Keep up the good work!!
Your cradle is solid, it needs to have a space in it for your blade to completely go through without bottoming out. The top of your blade would be more stable with a wider plate with at least two bolts going through it rather than one. Nice job.
Better good stolen than bad designed , but I haven t seen that V-shaped stator-holder before,that is a good design! simple things often work better than complicated things
Yeah I just looked at as many commercially made units as I could find and tried to replicate the same mechanism more or less. The vee shaped support is necessary to keep the stator centered under the pointed blade, which is necessary to keep the stator from deforming excessively while cutting through it.
@@AlwaysBored123 I meant the V-shaped holder you use to pull the copper .The V-shaped bottom of the cutter doesn t allow the cutter to go deep enough to cut the stator in 2
Some are easy to pull but others I really struggled with. I was thinking of trying to heat them up to make them pull out easier. Thanks for the info glad to know that works.
Nice set up just found your channel. It might help to use a thinner blade. I was going to use a old circular saw blade because they’re generally tool steel. I’m also surprised to see you using air for the puller cylinder. I actually thought about using air but air compress and I figured it would get dangerous if I got a winding that was stuck really bad. It might turn the pliers and chain into a projectile. But it works really well.
Yeah the air cylinder looks sketchier than it is. It does store a lot of energy but since it's pulling something apart that energy is always released in a way that creates a larger gap than before. So as long as you have a hand on the nippers to keep them from flying around and slapping you it's not too hazardous. The bad part is it's just not strong enough to pull really stubborn windings. But on easier ones it's very fast and efficient. A thinner blade in the splitter would probably be a good idea. I wasn't sure what I was doing so I chose 3/8" purely out of convenience. Whatever you use it definitely needs to be harder than AR400 though. I didn't know circular saw blades were tool steel thats interesting. Thanks for the comment!
The other thing you might be able to try is tempering the cutting edge to try to make it harder the hydraulics do pull a lot harder for the puller. I don’t think I found one that stopped mine it will actually taper the inside of the field housing, but it is slower.
I'd suggest some air hardening tool steel like a2 or A6 for the blade. It's not cheap. After heating the entire piece to about 1800° F. You would then temper it back to about Rockwell 56 which would be about a 400° F soak for maybe 3 or 4 hours depending and how thick it is. I would suggest 10 mm or 14 mm for the thickness of the blade, 3/8 in or half inch. You would obviously have to do all your shaping and edge forming before hardening. You will have to find somebody with a heat treating oven as it's almost impossible to do with the torch. You might be able to do something like 01 with the torch but you need to quench it in oil which gets to be messy and a little bit dangerous because of fire.
@@AlwaysBored123 A2 and A6 show minimal distortion in heat treat. Maybe a couple of thousands in thin sections but nothing you would have to worry about in your application.
Wow small world. Yeah Morris is awesome I buy almost as much stuff from them as I sell to them lol. I'll go to C&C if I have to but they always complain about something so I try to avoid them.
Maybe but it would be a complex process that is difficult to find information on and would definitely require a lot of trial and error. The whole point of using hardened plate in the first place was so I wouldn't have to fool with hardening it myself lol. Next time I'll try some AR500 or 600 and I'm sure that will be more than hard enough.
Great video....enjoyed the controlled destruction
Thanks. It's always nice when you can get paid to break stuff lol.
great work... i will bilding something similar in the next time
Hiya Mate! I just found ur chanel, I had a job scrapping the copper from old electric motors & we would heat them up in an oven for 2 hours,Chisel off one end of the copper wire then use a air atuated ram conected to a set of poly grips with chain to pull from the other end.The hardest part was waiting for the oven to heat them up.Keep up the good work!!
👍👍👍👍👍👌Great work and planning on the stator shear, and puller really enjoyed the video thanks for sharing!!
Thank you for watching!
Impressive, very nice!
Your cradle is solid, it needs to have a space in it for your blade to completely go through without bottoming out. The top of your blade would be more stable with a wider plate with at least two bolts going through it rather than one. Nice job.
Thanks for the video I'm actually building in the process of building basically the same thing good information
Good luck with it!
Better good stolen than bad designed , but I haven t seen that V-shaped stator-holder before,that is a good design!
simple things often work better than complicated things
Yeah I just looked at as many commercially made units as I could find and tried to replicate the same mechanism more or less. The vee shaped support is necessary to keep the stator centered under the pointed blade, which is necessary to keep the stator from deforming excessively while cutting through it.
@@AlwaysBored123 I meant the V-shaped holder you use to pull the copper .The V-shaped bottom of the cutter doesn t allow the cutter to go deep enough to cut the stator in 2
Solution is tell manufacturers to use a couple thicker slats in middle beveled for yout tool or for other tools such as machetes, meat cleavers, etc.
your way of doing the job is way quicker, no need to heat the steel your way. will keep on watching ur stuff!! Thanks from New Zealand!!!
Some are easy to pull but others I really struggled with. I was thinking of trying to heat them up to make them pull out easier. Thanks for the info glad to know that works.
Nice set up just found your channel. It might help to use a thinner blade. I was going to use a old circular saw blade because they’re generally tool steel. I’m also surprised to see you using air for the puller cylinder. I actually thought about using air but air compress and I figured it would get dangerous if I got a winding that was stuck really bad. It might turn the pliers and chain into a projectile. But it works really well.
Yeah the air cylinder looks sketchier than it is. It does store a lot of energy but since it's pulling something apart that energy is always released in a way that creates a larger gap than before. So as long as you have a hand on the nippers to keep them from flying around and slapping you it's not too hazardous. The bad part is it's just not strong enough to pull really stubborn windings. But on easier ones it's very fast and efficient.
A thinner blade in the splitter would probably be a good idea. I wasn't sure what I was doing so I chose 3/8" purely out of convenience. Whatever you use it definitely needs to be harder than AR400 though. I didn't know circular saw blades were tool steel thats interesting.
Thanks for the comment!
The other thing you might be able to try is tempering the cutting edge to try to make it harder the hydraulics do pull a lot harder for the puller. I don’t think I found one that stopped mine it will actually taper the inside of the field housing, but it is slower.
I have a coulter disc that is flat. I think it will work for a blade after I “V” it. I don’t know the hardness though.
Can you brake down hard drives, love the channel
If I get any I sure will. Thanks!
Good 👍 how much are you asking for the machine
Do they not sell single-phase hydraulic power units? Regardless, nice build!
The do but not for $350 on facebook lol. Thanks!
little relief for that blade tip on the pusher block and youd be able to chop clean through.
Yeah a little adjustment would make that work better.
I'd suggest some air hardening tool steel like a2 or A6 for the blade. It's not cheap. After heating the entire piece to about 1800° F. You would then temper it back to about Rockwell 56 which would be about a 400° F soak for maybe 3 or 4 hours depending and how thick it is. I would suggest 10 mm or 14 mm for the thickness of the blade, 3/8 in or half inch. You would obviously have to do all your shaping and edge forming before hardening. You will have to find somebody with a heat treating oven as it's almost impossible to do with the torch. You might be able to do something like 01 with the torch but you need to quench it in oil which gets to be messy and a little bit dangerous because of fire.
Thanks very much. Would I need to worry about warpage during the process? I've never heat treated anything.
@@AlwaysBored123 A2 and A6 show minimal distortion in heat treat. Maybe a couple of thousands in thin sections but nothing you would have to worry about in your application.
Great videos ,I have done business with that scrap yard for years verry rare will i go to c&c
Wow small world. Yeah Morris is awesome I buy almost as much stuff from them as I sell to them lol. I'll go to C&C if I have to but they always complain about something so I try to avoid them.
Could you heat treat the blade to harden it?
Maybe but it would be a complex process that is difficult to find information on and would definitely require a lot of trial and error. The whole point of using hardened plate in the first place was so I wouldn't have to fool with hardening it myself lol. Next time I'll try some AR500 or 600 and I'm sure that will be more than hard enough.