I just finished installing this in a 2021 LR M3. Sounds amazing! I'm so glad I did it, I was so scared because I've never installed any aftermarket systems ever. As an update the trunk liner is now split right after the lower storage compartment so no need to fully take out the back seats, just the bottom seat.
Hello, A tutorial on a Mode 3 (SR +) that does not have a subwoofer seems more logical than a tutorial on an already equipped LR or Performance! In addition, you do not indicate if there are connectors to retrieve the signals from the front speakers ?
Instead of drilling a larger hole and using the supplied jack nut, I used a #10-24 wall nut and a #10-24 x 1" threaded knurled nut. This way you can manually remove it gaining access to the charge port release cable without carrying around a 10mm socket.
@@RealReeseElDon nope but I saw another video on RUclips where they kind of explain it. You have to run wires to the speaker harness from under the dash to get subwoofer signal. The front door speakers are actually subwoofer speakers
@@Tahiz21I ended up hooking it up with a friend and I’m so happy I did so! Even got another friend to purchase one and I’ll be installing his next week . This system sounds amazing with the SR+
I really wish there is a step by step with the actual difficult part of the install. I saw your wiring diagram. Am I completely taking out of play the factory amp or am I splicing in to it?
Is there a step by step to activate all speakers on Tesla model 3 sr 2019 and also installing the subwoofer? Nice video but if I’d do it it would have to be one without a subwoofer already installed.
@@NVXAudio The pedestrian warning speaker that makes the 'pink noise' for when the car is moving slowly. It's an external speaker under the front passenger bumper. It can now be customized with Tesla's new Boombox feature
@@23adrock Thanks for the info. I figured you were talking about that new warning speaker, but thank you for clarifying. We are not sure if there is currently an aftermarket "solution" for this or even an option pre-2019 as we haven't given it much thought. I know they are doing that "turn your system on for a hood party" on the external speaker, but we have not given that much thought either from a demand standpoint. Thank you for stating your interest as we will look into it. If we go forward with it, we will be sure to have someone reach out.
You guys having had issues with the power since you got it from the back? I heard for bigger systems that pull more power it throws error codes and the car won’t start. I’m assuming since this sub and amp pulls less power that it doesn’t?
Can you list your fine tuned crossover adjustments? I’m finding my Model 3’s NVX set up with settings (flat on factory EQ) has a little muddiness and a bit of delay. Would love to see your baseline and adjust from there.
@@NVXAudio one last question: what about the subsonic, sensitivity, and crossover settings for bass level/main level/bass x? also to clarify, when you say LPF at 80, is that 80 Hz or 80%?
So during the design of the kit, did your engineers figure out how many watts could be driven from the dc-dc convertor supply? If so, could I do say 1500 watt rms, the kit plus 2 more 12's and 1000 rms mono as well for example? Would I need like a 4 F cap to ease current surges to Tesla's minimalist 12v design?
Hi Jared, we had designed the previous Tesla S BOOST Box and went from there. From previous analysis (and aftermarket set ups that were tried), we avoided a 1500W, and even 1000W RMS set up, as it was too much strain. I do not believe a capacitor would resolve the overall strain issue either, even if they did help with surges.
Great video. Thanks. Do you know if it will possible to create an aux-in (on any Model 3) by replacing/upgrading the amplifier? Appreciate your skills 👍
I am not sure what you mean by an aux in? The Tesla M3 only has a Bluetooth input from what I am aware of or through USB; however, we personally do not use the USB. You could buy a Bluetooth transmitter that pairs to the car and has an aux-in I suppose; however, that would be a bit odd and the only purpose I imagine would be your original source did not support Bluetooth (eg. Your old-school Gameboy) :)
I installed the power to the same battery, under the seat. After week or so I got message on the screen. It was because I had the amp hooked up to that battery. A tech who works at Tesla said to use the front 12v battery. I'm using the 12v in the front and no issue.
We haven't seen this error on cars we've installed on. But other people have mentioned it. It seems moving the power to the front battery does fix the issue
Why not bump it on the video. Show the final product. Of course we cannot experience the true sound but we could figure that out by your expressions. Thanks for the video. This is on my list.....
How is this on the new AMD 15.5v systems? I've seen a lot of guys doing electrical gymnastics trying to get amps to function without error messages or draining the Li-Ion battery!
We have had no issues other than the normal error messages due to improper installation and amplifier placement can effect certain electronics in the Tesla.
Hey there I installed this sub with the amp and it was working fine but now it’s not turning on at all.. is there anything I could do to make sure it connects again? Before dealing with warranty and sending it in?
We don't have that. If you do want to tap into the front speakers there are panels on either side under the dash. You'll see a grey connector on both sides. Left front speaker wires are solid white and white with black stripe. Right front is solid blue and blue with black stripe
Why don't you make a remote to let you adjust the crossover and levels from the drivers seat? Often setting it up and putting it back together again limits fine tuning of the low end.
Hey Eric! We do, please check out the bottom of our product page here: nvx.com/pbk-tm3-vsw10s2-tesla-model-3-complete-aftermarket-subwoofer-package.html
Apologies for the really silly question, I'm not a battery expert so I have no idea hence the reason I ask the question. I really love my base, every ICE vehicle I've had, I've had an amplifier and subwoofer hooked up, I'm worried doing the same on an EV would have a detrimental affect on the battery. Would excess bass and vibration cause EV battery degradation?
Good question! You should have no worries about installing some bass in an EV as the main drive battery is separate from the 12v power source you would connect too.
The factory amplifier was left in to power the highs and produce our subwoofer signal into our LOC. We did not leave the factory subwoofer hooked up as we could not hear it after the install anyways, but you can leave it in the vehicle but will need to wire one of the speakers out of phase as they cancel each other out.
They’re tapping directly to the dc to dc converter, which charges the battery not draws from it. Also from what I read I there is a circuit board in between the dc to dc converter and the battery, so i think the guy misspoke, that wire does not go directly to the battery. Regardless you can tap directly to the dc to dc converter it can handle like 150 amps.
@@sfcgoofy1982 The current method of installation requires you to manually splice into the wires. We have not made any official announcement regarding our Model Y product...yet.
@@sfcgoofy1982 We got distracted with the SpaceX subwoofer enclosure. We understand how important bass is to our loyal customers. However, E.T. has been waiting on subs for over 30 years. When we said we wanted our subwoofers performance to be out of this world we meant it. We didn't forget about you though!!
At this time we do not have a kit put together for Tesla, but is a great idea. For the time being you could buy the whole BOOST kit then buy a 5-Channel amplifier to power your doors and subwoofer. The kit comes with an amp but with the money being saved buying the entire kit, the amp is actually free. In my opinion I would run a VAD11005 5-Channel and keep the VADM1 as an extra amplifier for another vehicle.
I recently installed this exact setup in my model 3. In doing some forum diving online about error codes and how to prevent them, I found that the problem when connecting aftermarket audio gear to the penthouse dc power supply is that the supply turns off and on with the car, so each time you start it up there is a high inrush current to charge the amp's internal capacitors and the car eventually sees this as an electrical fault. Folks online are suggesting a resistor and relay wired in parallel to limit inrush currents. Is there any internal circuitry provided in the included amplifier to limit inrush? Has anyone measured how much inrush current this amplifier takes? Is a relay/resistor setup needed to mitigate this? I love how it sounds but I want to be as safe as possible and not damage my car.
Keep reading, there is a good write-up with an 80a relay and a ballast resistor. Since the radio powers up after the penthouse the ballast (or load) resistor is wired across the relay contacts (Common and NO) and the turn-on lead activates the main power connection (Common to penthouse, NO to amp). So the resistor already has the caps charged by the time the turn-on lead is activated.
I personally have installed our system in 4 or more Tesla's and haven’t experienced these issues. For the few calls I have taken regarding this topic it has boiled down to two things that seem to cause the issue. 1. Before removing the power terminal from the penthouse, the car needs to be powered down. Disconnecting the power with the car powered on will likely lead to issues. When reconnecting the power to the penthouse terminal make sure it's nice and snug. If it's not properly tightened, this can cause additional resistance and cause errors. This has just been my personal experience with a few people I have helped with solving the issue.
@@NVXAudio Have You Heard Of Any issue’s With The Subwoofer Being Mounted Right Next/On The Same Side As The Charger port?..Worried That The Low Bass and Vibration Might Mess With Port?..
If you feel more comfortable hooking it up to the front battery go with that. Some have reported errors when hooking it up to the point under the seat. One the ones we've installed we haven't gotten any errors even after a year of having it installed.
Thank you! If I did connect to battery, would I ground in same spot? Someone said it would be best to connect to battery negative instead of grounding? Thanks again!
Hi I just installed this system in my Model 3 with factory sub. How did you set up the XLCA2? Does the factory head unit drop off the bass levels? Did you turn the bass x threshold full clockwise and the bass x all the way down? On the amp where did you adjust the low pass filter to. Where did you set the subsonic and bass boost to? I adjusted the low level correctly and the amp gain to 25.2V with a 55hz tone. The bass is better but not as loud as I thought it would be.. ok after some messing around I got it sounding better.
@@hobby_dude_ subsonic at 30Hz LPF at 120Hz bass boost off. Bass x threshold full clockwise. And adjusted the bass x till it had enough bass to my liking. Sounds much better now
That is not necessarily our recommended settings. If you are happy, then that is great but generally speaking most people want their sub to play lower than 30Hz. By setting your subsonic at 30Hz you effectively lose any frequencies below 30Hz. Further, LPF at 80Hz would be what we did so that way your mids/highs play 80Hz+ and your sub is 80Hz and below. The 120Hz means you will play 120Hz and below. The reality is these things are also dependent on volume of the user. In our setup for Nate's car we have Subsonic at 25Hz, LPF at 80Hz, and Bass X with a slight bump.
Yes. In the (unlikely) event you needed to access that, then you would a) remove the upper panel (2 plastic clips), b) 10mm bolt that threads into the included jacknut which attaches the BOOST box into the car. It would take you less than 5 minutes. The only thing you would "need" to have is a 10mm socket w/ wrench (perhaps put in glovebox) if that was a longterm "concern" of having access.
Yes, the Tesla handles this fine. If you were to put a huge amp that was power hungry and let's say 100A draw then you would most likely run into issues; however, this in part is what makes this setup great. The draw is minimal. The space used is previously unused space, and it uses the 12V battery. You should see no impact to your lifespan or range. Further, we made a similar system for the Model S 5+ years ago and have an incredible amount in use on the roads to this day -- and that setup actually draws more power, but again it's from the 12V battery.
The install is a little different in regards to where you grab your signal for your LOC. Instead of grabbing speaker signal from the factory amp, you need to grab it from inside of the kick panel. The wires should be easy to spot as they are twisted together and as far as we know the wires are set up with aftermarket colors such as whites for the drivers side and grays for the passenger side.
Well before that point and an additional battery probably. That DC-DC converter isn’t meant to run 200+ amps of accessory load. Probably asking for trouble.
@@leo_cad - guarantee that your amp isn’t making that much power. How big is the fuse on the amp itself? Also what subwoofer? There are only a few subs on the planet that can take that kind of power.
@@leo_cad 100a fuse means 1380w max at 13.8v on the input side, bud. So output power on a class D (~80% +/-10% efficient) would be ~1kw RMS amplified power, assuming you’re on the ragged edge of the fused amount. The box is rated for 800w RMS and that’s about what I’d expect on an amp fused at 100a. FYI - 2300w output at 13.8v at even 90% efficient (rarely is it ever that high) would be >180 amps of current pull. No way 100a fuse wouldn’t blow immediately. Either way, that ported box probably slams. 👍🏻
Has this been tested to work with the 2021 standard range plus model 3? On the site it lets me search only up to 2020 so just wanna be sure before I order
Does installing this subwoofer on a vehicle with premium sound (original subwoofer included) disable the factory subwoofer or are they both going to be working side by side?
I installed today and checked and rechecked wiring multiple times. NO sound coming from subwoofer at all. I can mess with the gains and the "maximum" light on the XLCA2 will turn soon, and power light shows in both units, but absolutely no sound from speaker. Any thoughts as to why? I connected to harness at subwoofer and power and ground from factory amp like video shows....
We are in the process of making a follow-up video which will diagram the connections even clearer. Further, I have our team uploading the diagram for you here: nvx.com/be-tm3-vsw10s2-tesla-model-3-complete-aftermarket-subwoofer-package.html
I installed my own 2 years ago, WAY before all this info was readily available..... wasn’t fun lol but sounds AMAZING. I also connected the disconnected premium audio speakers in the columns and next to the side mirrors. Again, amazing!
@@renatosevillano8235 it’s really hard to tell - if I did the math I could figure it out but it hasn’t impacted enough for me to feel like I had to. I also have interior and exterior LED lighting installed, and as long as it’s not cold outside if I have everything turned on I can still stay under 230 wH/m. I have scan my Tesla installed, but never saw it spike too bad when turning everything on/off.
So I had this wired another way but going into an lc2i crossover. We used the orange white grey and blue wires from that same factory harness. Do you think this could be leading to clipping issues and problems with the amp turning off an on? I’m wondering if I should just use the subwoofer wires as you show in your diagram and wire directly into speaker inputs on the lc2i crossover. Then run rca cable from lc2i to aftermarket amplifier. Thoughts?
@@esedman157 Yes, hook up the input of the LC2i to the following wires. They will be found in the grey harness of the factory amplifier. green goes to left +, red goes to left -, purple goes to right +, and brown goes to right -. Going to the other wires will not provide you with the proper signal for subwoofers.
@@NVXAudio Thanks for the diagrams! Do you also know what gauge wire you used to tap into the OEM sub amp power, and the subwoofer +-? I got the kit (from you) but didn't realize it didn't come with wire to tap into these OEM wires. Thanks! :)
Yes we kept it connected. You do not have to keep the OEM subwoofer connected and we did not want to confuse those that do not have the OEM subwoofer; however, if you do keep the OEM connected for an extra bit of bass, then we suggest wiring the BOOST sub out of phase (connect the amp's positive to the sub's negative and amp's negative to sub's positive).
@@NVXAudio I noticed some distortion on my factory sub. How soon before you guys sell a replacement speaker with adapter and passive band-pass crossover? Would love to upgrade that speaker and save the lower frequencies for the 10.
@@thomasbihn I am not sure I would recommend this as the subwoofer we have will cover the frequencies as there is no roll off. You may be better served to simply unplug the factory sub out of the equation. We have found people happy to disconnect the factory sub altogether.
Have you listened to it before forming said opinion or passing judgement prematurely? The sub in question performs in line with JL Audio 10W3, Kicker CompVR, and Rockford Fosgate P3. We chose this sub as it is very accurate, efficient and the depth *was* and *is* an issue when compared to a subwoofer like our VC-series. In conclusion, it's a real subwoofer, performs excellently and it's not obnoxiously taking over the mids and highs so it accomplishes what we set out to do. Hope that helps -- and we really would hope you would get a listen in if you haven't already.
Quite simply, no :). There is no reduced range. We addressed this in a previous comment on here, but essentially the voltage draw is minimal. Therefore it is not impacting the range. Even on the Model S system we designed years ago, and that drew more power, it was not noticeable whatsoever.
@@lancebrumbalough4325 were you tapped into the 12 volt battery in the front? Professionals in my area that do installs all the time say ONLY use the 12 volt battery in the front and avoid using the power behind the seats. 0 codes, no issues.
I have a W6 (600w) Can this be done? I was told it would mess up the car and tell me my 12v battery is dead... I don’t know how much watt that converter Can change??
@@NVXAudio I would never be able to sell my w6, it’s JL so compares to 1200w other brands. I have one in each car, problem is it might destroy this box, or be to deep. I listen to 30hz and lower so I need a long throw 4” movement.
@@lordjoshr You would first of all be too deep. Second, we really think you should consider the system as an upgrade, listen to it, then pass judgement on the VS-series sub. It's a lot more amazing than you think ;).
@@lordjoshr I think what you are implying is "I listen to really low bass" and not so much 30Hz or lower given 20Hz or less is not really audible and "listening" to 30Hz is really not something that is going to be consistently heard. The BOOST Box gets very low. What makes you think it doesn't? It's a complete kit, package and solution that sounds amazing and complements the factory acoustics very well. Separately, I can confidently tell you that we make a sub that does outperform a W6 from an output standpoint, we just chose the VS-series in the M3 for reasons below. We provide the VC-series with the Tesla Model S BOOST Box given the configuration and set up of the vehicle. The goal of each BOOST Box is to meet darn near everyones' needs with bass, not an extreme edge case. Putting a VCW104 (or W6) in a hatchback/open trunk of a Tesla Model 3 would not be something that most prefer. If you are interested in a subwoofer that a) outperforms the W6 you speak and b) a solution we can help you build with that sub for your M3, then let us know at sales@nvx.com and we're happy to help.
@@NVXAudio the sub I have is in the original JL audio sealed prowedge box. It’s absolutely tiny but tuned really low. On a bass sweep I can hear 15hz and only start feeling it lower. Most all of my preferred music is slowed chopped and bass boosted. 22-25hz is preferred but some songs will stoop to 19hz. Regular rap music just slowed way down or bass mechanics. I enjoy the small box I have 14”x13”x14 (.55cubic) and the slash V3 analog amp because digital doesn’t give me a clean excursion control below 30hz. And with the DMA and frame cooling along with the pole cooling vent system I can keep volume at max without any chance of over heating the woofer. But I’ll look into it, I have a perfect set up just thinking boxes. I’m used to such low bass you can bounce items on the roof and stand by the window and your cloths move visibly. I think anyway my system will be to much power consumption for my Tesla, not sure what the MAX is capable
Ok just had a business install my alpine type R and Kenwood amp, I now only have sound up front. They said I would have to get some type of update from Tesla or it might just need to relearn after a hard reset. They didn't cut anything and they are a very liked installer. Does this sound right
Hi Donny, I do not mean to be rude, but it sounds like your installer did something wrong. Further, you should consider the BOOST Box for an easier install, no wasted trunk space and great integration with the factory system. We cannot offer support on the products you mentioned because it simply isn't our solution that is provided in the video. Hope that helps and sorry that they did that. It's part of what makes our BOOST series special for vehicle owners worldwide.
Is it possible to have detailed video on how to fit the enclosure properly ? I have a gap at the top of the enclosure which is not looking great. I’ve spotted the same issue on this video at 2:10 : ruclips.net/video/rU7KSd9Koaw/видео.html
@@NVXAudio i am in France Can you ship it to France Can i install it myself based on your installation procedure Do you have the full description of your kit jpgeek70@gmail.com
@@jpgeek70 1. Here is a detailed description: nvx.com/pbk-tm3-vsw10s2-tesla-model-3-complete-aftermarket-subwoofer-package.html 2. NVX.COM supports international ordering to France 3. SonicElectronix.com does as well: www.sonicelectronix.com/item-180873-NVX-PBK-TM3-VSW10S2-Tesla-Model-3-Complete-Aftermarket-Subwoofer-Package.html
@@lancebrumbalough4325 still no issues? I’m in a similar situation to yourself. I have a sub and amp from a previous car that I’m thinking about installing.
@@lancebrumbalough4325 I just got my Tesla a few days ago and I saw you can mess with the equalizer. It does sound very good. I would like the bass to be a little tighter but dunno if it would be worth the trouble.
Ngl was gonna purchase this thinking i might be able to do this myself, this video is just not it unfortunately. Not really step by step, just the guy pulling panels and pointing at things he did.
This vid is only step by step talking about what to do, with limited info. Camera shots are too far away and no-one knows what factory wires your talking about. Not helpful for diy folks.
They are a company selling a product that most likely has better instructions. They aren't a "DIY" channel. Not their fault people bought a brand new car from a newer company that has 0 aftermarket support.
Your logo reminds me of a bottle of Haterade. All jokes aside, we have experienced many updates and we're still A-O-K. Further, it's like any other accessory plugged into the 12V battery. Our M3 model in house has had the system for nearly a year now :).
Based on how this system is hooked up and where it gets power and audio signal, the chance of it being bricked by an OTA update is probably 0.01%. Generally the only things that could be bricked by OTA updates are aftermarket accessories that connect to the canbus like those auxiliary displays.
1. Showing an installed system is a waste of time. 2. You don't specify what year Model 3 cars this can be installed on. 3. A RWD installation would be MUCH more complicated, but you don't show that. 4. You don't show how to connect the wiring harnesses and RCA connections 5. You don't explain the benefits of installing this system. 6. You don't specify what parts you are using that have to be ordered. Overall, this "instruction" video is a complete failure!
does the remote turn-on feature keep the LOC/amp on for about 30 minutes after the car shuts off? I'm currently using another brand of LOC, and it detects the signal to turn on the LOC/amp, but after the car is asleep, the LOC and Amp doesn't turn off for over 30 minutes. The car is a 2021 Model 3 Performance, if it matters. Thanks!
I’m have a strange issue with my XLCA2 which has stopped turning on, but only sometimes. If I unplug the wire harnesses and measure voltage everything seems fine. I get a good 12V power coming in and around 12V at each speaker wire. The moment I plug in the wiring harnesses, the “maximized” light flashes once and the voltage of the power wire drops to about 5V and the LOC won’t turn on. Oddly enough, the system has been working fine for 4 months and this just started happening recently and only intermittently. I did try another XLCA2 and the behavior is the same, so it’s not the unit. Any thoughts?
Never mind, all. Traced the problem back to the 12V connection point where I tapped in for power. Wire was loose, so once I put a load on it (plugged the wire harness into the LOC) the voltage dropped. All good now. System is rockin’ again.
This is a very broad question considering you have to tune multiple devices to work with each other. First you would tune the XLCA2, then the amplifier. Here is a link to a video showing how to tune these in together. ruclips.net/video/wIybm01vY1M/видео.html
I just finished installing this in a 2021 LR M3. Sounds amazing! I'm so glad I did it, I was so scared because I've never installed any aftermarket systems ever. As an update the trunk liner is now split right after the lower storage compartment so no need to fully take out the back seats, just the bottom seat.
Awesome, happy to hear you got it installed.
@@NVXAudio You should do one on a Honda Clarity 2018,I can't get anybody to do it for me...
Will this kit work on a 2023 RWD model 3?
Where did you plug the RCA to?
Hello,
A tutorial on a Mode 3 (SR +) that does not have a subwoofer seems more logical than a tutorial on an already equipped LR or Performance!
In addition, you do not indicate if there are connectors to retrieve the signals from the front speakers ?
Do you have a version that explains how to wire this into the standard audio system on a Model 3 (not one that already has a subwoofer and amp?)
I would like to know this also. Any ideas where we can find info on this??
It’s on the NVX site, one of the images has the wire colors and pinout on the plug
@@grumpysteelmanthe instructions are wrong
My man has got the entire car torn apart and says “overall it’s pretty straightforward”. Bro what?
😂😂😂😂
Nice to see y’all working on EV’s. You sound like the guy from Sonic Electronix
This is a great video for sure but is there an installation guide for a Tesla model 3 SR+?
I need a tutorial for sr+!
Instead of drilling a larger hole and using the supplied jack nut, I used a #10-24 wall nut and a #10-24 x 1" threaded knurled nut. This way you can manually remove it gaining access to the charge port release cable without carrying around a 10mm socket.
This is the subwoofer upgrade solution that I'm looking for, thanks!
Can you do a fresh install with a base model 3 standard range? I have a 2023 and want to upgrade the audio completely
Did you figure it out ? I just purchased this system for a sr+ and have no one who knows how to install it
@@RealReeseElDon nope but I saw another video on RUclips where they kind of explain it. You have to run wires to the speaker harness from under the dash to get subwoofer signal. The front door speakers are actually subwoofer speakers
@@Tahiz21I ended up hooking it up with a friend and I’m so happy I did so! Even got another friend to purchase one and I’ll be installing his next week . This system sounds amazing with the SR+
@@RealReeseElDon NICE!!! how did you do it exactly? did you get signal through the passenger sub woofer or inline under the glove box?
@@Tahiz21can you link that video?
thank you. A real footage on how to install an Amp. I was kind of intimidated to work on this car.
Patiently waiting for the 2023 model 3 version to come out 🤘
This enclosure fits the 2023 Model 3's.
@@NVXAudio really?!? The website says 2022. Some others mentioned that there was a redesign in 2023 so I wasn't sure what to believe. Thank you!
@@RaytownProductions We are not aware of any changes at the moment.
How about the wiring and if the amp can handle the higher voltage for it to work with the 15.5 v system on the newer m3?
@@djoj1986 Our amplifier does work with their 15.5v lithium battery.
Need tutorial for Sr+ !!
Don’t forget: When removing the gasket in the trunk, be sure to not get any of that adhesive on your car! It’s not fun cleaning it off lol.
You can use WD-40 or something similar to clean the adhesive.
I really wish there is a step by step with the actual difficult part of the install. I saw your wiring diagram. Am I completely taking out of play the factory amp or am I splicing in to it?
You could do either one depending on if you want the factory sub to still work or not.
Excellent video. I like the super-clean install.
Thanks! 👍
Great information, thank you for showing and sharing
How did you wire the LOC to the factory sub specifically? It’s a dual voice coil so not sure how to wire it.
You can connect signal to one voice coil of the factory subwoofer and jump the + and - to fill both left and right inputs of the LOC.
Very informative thanks for the great content
Is there a step by step to activate all speakers on Tesla model 3 sr 2019 and also installing the subwoofer?
Nice video but if I’d do it it would have to be one without a subwoofer already installed.
You guys should do a video on installing the external speaker for pre September 2019 cars. If it's possible that is.
What do you mean "external speaker?"
@@NVXAudio The pedestrian warning speaker that makes the 'pink noise' for when the car is moving slowly. It's an external speaker under the front passenger bumper. It can now be customized with Tesla's new Boombox feature
@@23adrock Thanks for the info. I figured you were talking about that new warning speaker, but thank you for clarifying. We are not sure if there is currently an aftermarket "solution" for this or even an option pre-2019 as we haven't given it much thought. I know they are doing that "turn your system on for a hood party" on the external speaker, but we have not given that much thought either from a demand standpoint. Thank you for stating your interest as we will look into it. If we go forward with it, we will be sure to have someone reach out.
You guys having had issues with the power since you got it from the back? I heard for bigger systems that pull more power it throws error codes and the car won’t start. I’m assuming since this sub and amp pulls less power that it doesn’t?
I wonder how much range a subwoofer/amp will take away?
We've had this setup in a company car for over a year and haven't noticed any drop in range.
Can you list your fine tuned crossover adjustments? I’m finding my Model 3’s NVX set up with settings (flat on factory EQ) has a little muddiness and a bit of delay. Would love to see your baseline and adjust from there.
Yes, so your LPF should be set at 80Hz, boost Freq. should be set at 50Hz and EQ flat for best performance.
@@NVXAudio awesome. Thank you!
@@NVXAudio one last question: what about the subsonic, sensitivity, and crossover settings for bass level/main level/bass x? also to clarify, when you say LPF at 80, is that 80 Hz or 80%?
What size is the power screw? I want to put a nut on top of it to secure my power wire to it? Thanks.
Have you got an answer on what size is the positive post screw underneath the rear seat? I'm looking for it!
So during the design of the kit, did your engineers figure out how many watts could be driven from the dc-dc convertor supply? If so, could I do say 1500 watt rms, the kit plus 2 more 12's and 1000 rms mono as well for example? Would I need like a 4 F cap to ease current surges to Tesla's minimalist 12v design?
Hi Jared, we had designed the previous Tesla S BOOST Box and went from there. From previous analysis (and aftermarket set ups that were tried), we avoided a 1500W, and even 1000W RMS set up, as it was too much strain. I do not believe a capacitor would resolve the overall strain issue either, even if they did help with surges.
Great video. Thanks. Do you know if it will possible to create an aux-in (on any Model 3) by replacing/upgrading the amplifier? Appreciate your skills 👍
I am not sure what you mean by an aux in? The Tesla M3 only has a Bluetooth input from what I am aware of or through USB; however, we personally do not use the USB. You could buy a Bluetooth transmitter that pairs to the car and has an aux-in I suppose; however, that would be a bit odd and the only purpose I imagine would be your original source did not support Bluetooth (eg. Your old-school Gameboy) :)
Still looking for an aux input mod for M3. Bluetooth is cringe. The BT reciever idea doesn't work with teslas since it is looking for a phone only.
I installed the power to the same battery, under the seat. After week or so I got message on the screen. It was because I had the amp hooked up to that battery. A tech who works at Tesla said to use the front 12v battery. I'm using the 12v in the front and no issue.
We haven't seen this error on cars we've installed on. But other people have mentioned it. It seems moving the power to the front battery does fix the issue
How may amps can we pull from that location before having to run to the battery?
very helpful thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Great video thank you!
Thank you for watching, Matt!
After installation does it affect range, battery or updates? Any issues? Thank you
Why not bump it on the video. Show the final product. Of course we cannot experience the true sound but we could figure that out by your expressions. Thanks for the video. This is on my list.....
How is this on the new AMD 15.5v systems? I've seen a lot of guys doing electrical gymnastics trying to get amps to function without error messages or draining the Li-Ion battery!
We have had no issues other than the normal error messages due to improper installation and amplifier placement can effect certain electronics in the Tesla.
Hey there I installed this sub with the amp and it was working fine but now it’s not turning on at all.. is there anything I could do to make sure it connects again? Before dealing with warranty and sending it in?
Please contact tech@nvx.com for the best help. Thank You!
Do you have a video that shows how to tap into the front speakers?
We don't have that. If you do want to tap into the front speakers there are panels on either side under the dash. You'll see a grey connector on both sides. Left front speaker wires are solid white and white with black stripe. Right front is solid blue and blue with black stripe
Where did you connect the remote wire ?
Is it possible to upgrade both driver and passenger side? Or is that bad?
Why don't you make a remote to let you adjust the crossover and levels from the drivers seat? Often setting it up and putting it back together again limits fine tuning of the low end.
He literally said u can run it up front wherever u want
Do you have a diagram or know what wire is the amp turn on?
Hey Eric! We do, please check out the bottom of our product page here: nvx.com/pbk-tm3-vsw10s2-tesla-model-3-complete-aftermarket-subwoofer-package.html
Is the warranty away after doing this?
So sound test?
Warning this is not step by step… more like a partial summary!
I feel like the most important part the wiring has no explanation..
Apologies for the really silly question, I'm not a battery expert so I have no idea hence the reason I ask the question. I really love my base, every ICE vehicle I've had, I've had an amplifier and subwoofer hooked up, I'm worried doing the same on an EV would have a detrimental affect on the battery. Would excess bass and vibration cause EV battery degradation?
Good question! You should have no worries about installing some bass in an EV as the main drive battery is separate from the 12v power source you would connect too.
What did you actually do besides removing taking the car apart?
Is the factory amp and sub still in use after the new equipment is installed?
The factory amplifier was left in to power the highs and produce our subwoofer signal into our LOC. We did not leave the factory subwoofer hooked up as we could not hear it after the install anyways, but you can leave it in the vehicle but will need to wire one of the speakers out of phase as they cancel each other out.
Do you think it would fit 2 12inch speakers?
This box is made based around a 10" woofer, so a 12" will not fit.
All the links I saw for wiring diagrams don’t seem to be available ?
We are aware and we are fixing the issues.
Yeah, well, you do not necessarily need to run the power wires back to the battery IF the factory cables are thick enough, which I doubt though.
They’re tapping directly to the dc to dc converter, which charges the battery not draws from it. Also from what I read I there is a circuit board in between the dc to dc converter and the battery, so i think the guy misspoke, that wire does not go directly to the battery. Regardless you can tap directly to the dc to dc converter it can handle like 150 amps.
Anything for the Y on the horizon.
Also how do you tap Into the factory wiring for the LOC?
nvx.com/media/cms_pages/TeslaModel3BoostwiringX_1_.png
@@NVXAudio so does that mean no for the model y? As well how are you taping in? A harness or t’s
@@sfcgoofy1982 The current method of installation requires you to manually splice into the wires. We have not made any official announcement regarding our Model Y product...yet.
@@NVXAudio well hurry up! Master Elon wants the model Y to be the #1 selling car in the world and I need some bass!
Thank you
@@sfcgoofy1982 We got distracted with the SpaceX subwoofer enclosure. We understand how important bass is to our loyal customers. However, E.T. has been waiting on subs for over 30 years. When we said we wanted our subwoofers performance to be out of this world we meant it. We didn't forget about you though!!
So the new base model 2022 Model 3 can you upgrade this sound system? What can be upgraded?
We are working on gathering information on the 2022 models.
How many times do you say actually ? Can't take it. Wow !
Do this kit active all speakers 2
I mean to ask do u have kit what have all wires to active last 6 speaker ans subwoofer?
At this time we do not have a kit put together for Tesla, but is a great idea. For the time being you could buy the whole BOOST kit then buy a 5-Channel amplifier to power your doors and subwoofer. The kit comes with an amp but with the money being saved buying the entire kit, the amp is actually free. In my opinion I would run a VAD11005 5-Channel and keep the VADM1 as an extra amplifier for another vehicle.
@@NVXAudio can u put link here where is full kit with speakers and subwoofer? If i understand right you have some kindo kit?
I recently installed this exact setup in my model 3. In doing some forum diving online about error codes and how to prevent them, I found that the problem when connecting aftermarket audio gear to the penthouse dc power supply is that the supply turns off and on with the car, so each time you start it up there is a high inrush current to charge the amp's internal capacitors and the car eventually sees this as an electrical fault. Folks online are suggesting a resistor and relay wired in parallel to limit inrush currents. Is there any internal circuitry provided in the included amplifier to limit inrush? Has anyone measured how much inrush current this amplifier takes? Is a relay/resistor setup needed to mitigate this? I love how it sounds but I want to be as safe as possible and not damage my car.
Keep reading, there is a good write-up with an 80a relay and a ballast resistor. Since the radio powers up after the penthouse the ballast (or load) resistor is wired across the relay contacts (Common and NO) and the turn-on lead activates the main power connection (Common to penthouse, NO to amp). So the resistor already has the caps charged by the time the turn-on lead is activated.
I am doing this same thing this week so I’ll post a video on how to wire it
I personally have installed our system in 4 or more Tesla's and haven’t experienced these issues. For the few calls I have taken regarding this topic it has boiled down to two things that seem to cause the issue. 1. Before removing the power terminal from the penthouse, the car needs to be powered down. Disconnecting the power with the car powered on will likely lead to issues. When reconnecting the power to the penthouse terminal make sure it's nice and snug. If it's not properly tightened, this can cause additional resistance and cause errors. This has just been my personal experience with a few people I have helped with solving the issue.
@@NVXAudio Have You Heard Of Any issue’s With The Subwoofer Being Mounted Right Next/On The Same Side As The Charger port?..Worried That The Low Bass and Vibration Might Mess With Port?..
I use SS relays and resistors - no issues after 2.5 yrs
Has there been a consensus as to if it’s better/safer to connect to battery in front or the penthouse? I keep reading differing opinions. Thanks!!!
If you feel more comfortable hooking it up to the front battery go with that. Some have reported errors when hooking it up to the point under the seat. One the ones we've installed we haven't gotten any errors even after a year of having it installed.
Thank you! If I did connect to battery, would I ground in same spot? Someone said it would be best to connect to battery negative instead of grounding? Thanks again!
Hi I just installed this system in my Model 3 with factory sub. How did you set up the XLCA2? Does the factory head unit drop off the bass levels? Did you turn the bass x threshold full clockwise and the bass x all the way down? On the amp where did you adjust the low pass filter to. Where did you set the subsonic and bass boost to? I adjusted the low level correctly and the amp gain to 25.2V with a 55hz tone. The bass is better but not as loud as I thought it would be..
ok after some messing around I got it sounding better.
What were your final settings?
@@hobby_dude_ subsonic at 30Hz LPF at 120Hz bass boost off. Bass x threshold full clockwise. And adjusted the bass x till it had enough bass to my liking. Sounds much better now
That is not necessarily our recommended settings. If you are happy, then that is great but generally speaking most people want their sub to play lower than 30Hz. By setting your subsonic at 30Hz you effectively lose any frequencies below 30Hz. Further, LPF at 80Hz would be what we did so that way your mids/highs play 80Hz+ and your sub is 80Hz and below. The 120Hz means you will play 120Hz and below. The reality is these things are also dependent on volume of the user.
In our setup for Nate's car we have Subsonic at 25Hz, LPF at 80Hz, and Bass X with a slight bump.
@@NVXAudio how can you set it up that exact? That just a minor turn of the knob.
@@NVXAudio also the LPF is after the factory amp so wouldn’t actually affect the factory mids right?
Subwoofer blocks the manual charge release cable? Is it easily removable if I need to access that charger release?
Yes. In the (unlikely) event you needed to access that, then you would a) remove the upper panel (2 plastic clips), b) 10mm bolt that threads into the included jacknut which attaches the BOOST box into the car. It would take you less than 5 minutes. The only thing you would "need" to have is a 10mm socket w/ wrench (perhaps put in glovebox) if that was a longterm "concern" of having access.
Shipping to Canada available?
We sure do ship to Canada!
Can you do a video for the model s?
ruclips.net/video/ppOvWN-6mH8/видео.html
Can a Tesla handle aftermarket battery draw for something like this? I wonder how this would affect the battery in terms of lifespan and range.
Yes, the Tesla handles this fine. If you were to put a huge amp that was power hungry and let's say 100A draw then you would most likely run into issues; however, this in part is what makes this setup great. The draw is minimal. The space used is previously unused space, and it uses the 12V battery. You should see no impact to your lifespan or range. Further, we made a similar system for the Model S 5+ years ago and have an incredible amount in use on the roads to this day -- and that setup actually draws more power, but again it's from the 12V battery.
@@NVXAudio Does the factory and aftermarket subs fire together in sync?
@@NVXAudio you should do an audio test with the subwoofer. Is it worth it??
Is this the same procedure for the Tesla Model S with base soundsystem?
2018 75D
The install is a little different in regards to where you grab your signal for your LOC. Instead of grabbing speaker signal from the factory amp, you need to grab it from inside of the kick panel. The wires should be easy to spot as they are twisted together and as far as we know the wires are set up with aftermarket colors such as whites for the drivers side and grays for the passenger side.
So at what point do you need to use resistors? Want to go with around a 12'' subwoofer and a 2.3k W amp
Well before that point and an additional battery probably. That DC-DC converter isn’t meant to run 200+ amps of accessory load. Probably asking for trouble.
@@grumpysteelman have had it for 7 months, running fine right off of the battery in the front
@@leo_cad - guarantee that your amp isn’t making that much power. How big is the fuse on the amp itself? Also what subwoofer? There are only a few subs on the planet that can take that kind of power.
@@grumpysteelman 100a on the fuse, Rockford Fosgate P2-2X12 12" 1600
Watt Dual Loaded Subwoofer Sub
@@leo_cad 100a fuse means 1380w max at 13.8v on the input side, bud. So output power on a class D (~80% +/-10% efficient) would be ~1kw RMS amplified power, assuming you’re on the ragged edge of the fused amount. The box is rated for 800w RMS and that’s about what I’d expect on an amp fused at 100a.
FYI - 2300w output at 13.8v at even 90% efficient (rarely is it ever that high) would be >180 amps of current pull. No way 100a fuse wouldn’t blow immediately.
Either way, that ported box probably slams. 👍🏻
Has this been tested to work with the 2021 standard range plus model 3? On the site it lets me search only up to 2020 so just wanna be sure before I order
It works with the 2021. We'll get that updated. Thank you for pointing that out.
@@NVXAudio video for installing to sr+?
Does installing this subwoofer on a vehicle with premium sound (original subwoofer included) disable the factory subwoofer or are they both going to be working side by side?
They will both be working
I installed today and checked and rechecked wiring multiple times. NO sound coming from subwoofer at all. I can mess with the gains and the "maximum" light on the XLCA2 will turn soon, and power light shows in both units, but absolutely no sound from speaker. Any thoughts as to why? I connected to harness at subwoofer and power and ground from factory amp like video shows....
Check RCA's and double check all connections.
Before I buy, I’d like to know which wires I’d be tapping into for the line output converter. Please let me know
We are in the process of making a follow-up video which will diagram the connections even clearer. Further, I have our team uploading the diagram for you here: nvx.com/be-tm3-vsw10s2-tesla-model-3-complete-aftermarket-subwoofer-package.html
@@NVXAudio a test bump at the end of the next video would be nice too.
@@NVXAudio Yes I'd like the wire diagram also. I'll use this video though to start my sub install for sure, thanks
@@aaronjones7078 You mean like just a demo of it playing? We have one. I will tell Social to post here as a link
@@aaronjones7078 Hey Aaron, we just put up two videos of what it sounds like
dude, I am willing to pay you 1000 to install a subwoofer in my model 3.
I installed my own 2 years ago, WAY before all this info was readily available..... wasn’t fun lol but sounds AMAZING. I also connected the disconnected premium audio speakers in the columns and next to the side mirrors. Again, amazing!
@@NightRogue77 How did this affect your miles range?
@@renatosevillano8235 it’s really hard to tell - if I did the math I could figure it out but it hasn’t impacted enough for me to feel like I had to. I also have interior and exterior LED lighting installed, and as long as it’s not cold outside if I have everything turned on I can still stay under 230 wH/m.
I have scan my Tesla installed, but never saw it spike too bad when turning everything on/off.
@@NightRogue77 do you have a pic of your amp settings? Installed mine and doesn’t sound quite right
The install isn’t bad, any good shop can do it. If anyone is in the Houston area, I’ll be glad to help you out (for way less than a grand lol)
could you be more specific with the wiring? Im not quite sure which wires to splice into
Hi! Please see the wiring diagram linked here: nvx.com/media/cms_pages/TeslaModel3InstallguideCarX_1_.png
And this one! nvx.com/media/cms_pages/TeslaModel3BoostwiringX_1_.png
So I had this wired another way but going into an lc2i crossover. We used the orange white grey and blue wires from that same factory harness. Do you think this could be leading to clipping issues and problems with the amp turning off an on? I’m wondering if I should just use the subwoofer wires as you show in your diagram and wire directly into speaker inputs on the lc2i crossover. Then run rca cable from lc2i to aftermarket amplifier. Thoughts?
@@esedman157 Yes, hook up the input of the LC2i to the following wires. They will be found in the grey harness of the factory amplifier. green goes to left +, red goes to left -, purple goes to right +, and brown goes to right -. Going to the other wires will not provide you with the proper signal for subwoofers.
@@NVXAudio Thanks for the diagrams! Do you also know what gauge wire you used to tap into the OEM sub amp power, and the subwoofer +-? I got the kit (from you) but didn't realize it didn't come with wire to tap into these OEM wires. Thanks! :)
What’s the mounting depth of this box? Also what’s the volume (cuft) of the box?
Were you able to find the volume ?
Nope
Model Y install Video coming?
Here is the model Y video ruclips.net/video/tatbSDnVa68/видео.html
@nvx Did you keep the factory subwoofer connected at the end?
Yes we kept it connected. You do not have to keep the OEM subwoofer connected and we did not want to confuse those that do not have the OEM subwoofer; however, if you do keep the OEM connected for an extra bit of bass, then we suggest wiring the BOOST sub out of phase (connect the amp's positive to the sub's negative and amp's negative to sub's positive).
@@NVXAudio I noticed some distortion on my factory sub. How soon before you guys sell a replacement speaker with adapter and passive band-pass crossover? Would love to upgrade that speaker and save the lower frequencies for the 10.
@@thomasbihn I am not sure I would recommend this as the subwoofer we have will cover the frequencies as there is no roll off. You may be better served to simply unplug the factory sub out of the equation. We have found people happy to disconnect the factory sub altogether.
@@NVXAudio what does wiring out of phase do?
Did disconnecting the rear seat cushions cause and warning lights or codes ?
No because reconnect them :) -- I suppose if you do not connect them you would get a light/code.
Any reason to why you dont have any options thats more powerful? This "sub" is kinda weak. I would love to see a real subwoofer for these cars.
Have you listened to it before forming said opinion or passing judgement prematurely? The sub in question performs in line with JL Audio 10W3, Kicker CompVR, and Rockford Fosgate P3. We chose this sub as it is very accurate, efficient and the depth *was* and *is* an issue when compared to a subwoofer like our VC-series.
In conclusion, it's a real subwoofer, performs excellently and it's not obnoxiously taking over the mids and highs so it accomplishes what we set out to do. Hope that helps -- and we really would hope you would get a listen in if you haven't already.
Probably a stupid question, but with these electric cars, does adding a large sub reduce the cars range by anything noteworthy??
I'd like to know too
Quite simply, no :). There is no reduced range. We addressed this in a previous comment on here, but essentially the voltage draw is minimal. Therefore it is not impacting the range. Even on the Model S system we designed years ago, and that drew more power, it was not noticeable whatsoever.
Will this kit cause error codes or cause the main display sounds to be heard throughout all speakers?
@@lancebrumbalough4325 were you tapped into the 12 volt battery in the front? Professionals in my area that do installs all the time say ONLY use the 12 volt battery in the front and avoid using the power behind the seats. 0 codes, no issues.
@@lancebrumbalough4325 that is correct. Change it to the battery in the front and let me know how it goes. Update me.
You guys should make one for a MK5 GTI
Where is this shop located in case you do local installs?
We are located downtown Louisville, Kentucky.
How much of an increase in bass and loudness will you be getting from this?
I’m guessing not much…
@@abimbolaaku2709 How do you figure "not much" it's a 500W amp (RMS) into a pretty nice 10" sub.
It's a good amount for a hidden away system. You can feel it through the car
Does this work with a 2022 Tesla Model 3 Performance?
It sure does!
@@NVXAudio why did I get a email reply saying that it doesn’t haha 😂 I am so confused now! Is there any Australian Dealers?
Same question for the model perf 2023 ?
I have a W6 (600w)
Can this be done? I was told it would mess up the car and tell me my 12v battery is dead... I don’t know how much watt that converter Can change??
Sell your W6 on eBay/locally. Get the package and never look back. You'll thank us later.
@@NVXAudio I would never be able to sell my w6, it’s JL so compares to 1200w other brands. I have one in each car, problem is it might destroy this box, or be to deep. I listen to 30hz and lower so I need a long throw 4” movement.
@@lordjoshr You would first of all be too deep. Second, we really think you should consider the system as an upgrade, listen to it, then pass judgement on the VS-series sub. It's a lot more amazing than you think ;).
@@lordjoshr I think what you are implying is "I listen to really low bass" and not so much 30Hz or lower given 20Hz or less is not really audible and "listening" to 30Hz is really not something that is going to be consistently heard. The BOOST Box gets very low. What makes you think it doesn't? It's a complete kit, package and solution that sounds amazing and complements the factory acoustics very well.
Separately, I can confidently tell you that we make a sub that does outperform a W6 from an output standpoint, we just chose the VS-series in the M3 for reasons below. We provide the VC-series with the Tesla Model S BOOST Box given the configuration and set up of the vehicle. The goal of each BOOST Box is to meet darn near everyones' needs with bass, not an extreme edge case. Putting a VCW104 (or W6) in a hatchback/open trunk of a Tesla Model 3 would not be something that most prefer.
If you are interested in a subwoofer that a) outperforms the W6 you speak and b) a solution we can help you build with that sub for your M3, then let us know at sales@nvx.com and we're happy to help.
@@NVXAudio the sub I have is in the original JL audio sealed prowedge box. It’s absolutely tiny but tuned really low.
On a bass sweep I can hear 15hz and only start feeling it lower.
Most all of my preferred music is slowed chopped and bass boosted.
22-25hz is preferred but some songs will stoop to 19hz.
Regular rap music just slowed way down or bass mechanics.
I enjoy the small box I have 14”x13”x14 (.55cubic) and the slash V3 analog amp because digital doesn’t give me a clean excursion control below 30hz. And with the DMA and frame cooling along with the pole cooling vent system I can keep volume at max without any chance of over heating the woofer.
But I’ll look into it, I have a perfect set up just thinking boxes. I’m used to such low bass you can bounce items on the roof and stand by the window and your cloths move visibly. I think anyway my system will be to much power consumption for my Tesla, not sure what the MAX is capable
What’s the point? Doesn’t it already come with a badass subwoofer?
The factory system with subwoofer is good. This setup is for people that want more low end power than the factory sub can output
Ok just had a business install my alpine type R and Kenwood amp, I now only have sound up front. They said I would have to get some type of update from Tesla or it might just need to relearn after a hard reset. They didn't cut anything and they are a very liked installer. Does this sound right
Hi Donny,
I do not mean to be rude, but it sounds like your installer did something wrong. Further, you should consider the BOOST Box for an easier install, no wasted trunk space and great integration with the factory system. We cannot offer support on the products you mentioned because it simply isn't our solution that is provided in the video. Hope that helps and sorry that they did that. It's part of what makes our BOOST series special for vehicle owners worldwide.
You just blocked the access for emergency lock release belt where you tucked in the subwoofer in the trunk
Is it possible to have detailed video on how to fit the enclosure properly ? I have a gap at the top of the enclosure which is not looking great.
I’ve spotted the same issue on this video at 2:10 : ruclips.net/video/rU7KSd9Koaw/видео.html
How cost is your kit ??
$759.98 USD
@@NVXAudio i am in France
Can you ship it to France
Can i install it myself based on your installation procedure
Do you have the full description of your kit
jpgeek70@gmail.com
@@jpgeek70 1. Here is a detailed description: nvx.com/pbk-tm3-vsw10s2-tesla-model-3-complete-aftermarket-subwoofer-package.html
2. NVX.COM supports international ordering to France
3. SonicElectronix.com does as well: www.sonicelectronix.com/item-180873-NVX-PBK-TM3-VSW10S2-Tesla-Model-3-Complete-Aftermarket-Subwoofer-Package.html
Does installing this void my warranty or affect it in anyway way if I have it install at a local car audio shop?
I called Tesla about this and it definitely does void the warranty because you are tying into their wiring.
@@fgmproductions The whole car's warranty or only a portion?
@@lancebrumbalough4325 So the battery in the frunk is better?
@@lancebrumbalough4325 still no issues? I’m in a similar situation to yourself. I have a sub and amp from a previous car that I’m thinking about installing.
@@lancebrumbalough4325 I just got my Tesla a few days ago and I saw you can mess with the equalizer. It does sound very good. I would like the bass to be a little tighter but dunno if it would be worth the trouble.
All I heard was, "actually." Did he say anything else?
Audio is poor in certain segments when he starts mumbling
Ngl was gonna purchase this thinking i might be able to do this myself, this video is just not it unfortunately. Not really step by step, just the guy pulling panels and pointing at things he did.
This vid is only step by step talking about what to do, with limited info. Camera shots are too far away and no-one knows what factory wires your talking about. Not helpful for diy folks.
They are a company selling a product that most likely has better instructions. They aren't a "DIY" channel. Not their fault people bought a brand new car from a newer company that has 0 aftermarket support.
They have terrible reviews on their website
This is imposing.
Actually.
Right, Tesla will deactivate it with the next upgrade.
We have had the Model S system installed for 9 years. We are confident it will be fine. Don't hate. Enjoy.
Your logo reminds me of a bottle of Haterade. All jokes aside, we have experienced many updates and we're still A-O-K. Further, it's like any other accessory plugged into the 12V battery. Our M3 model in house has had the system for nearly a year now :).
Based on how this system is hooked up and where it gets power and audio signal, the chance of it being bricked by an OTA update is probably 0.01%. Generally the only things that could be bricked by OTA updates are aftermarket accessories that connect to the canbus like those auxiliary displays.
1. Showing an installed system is a waste of time.
2. You don't specify what year Model 3 cars this can be installed on.
3. A RWD installation would be MUCH more complicated, but you don't show that.
4. You don't show how to connect the wiring harnesses and RCA connections
5. You don't explain the benefits of installing this system.
6. You don't specify what parts you are using that have to be ordered.
Overall, this "instruction" video is a complete failure!
Nvx, the Walmart brand for subwoofers 😂.
Need a sub for your Tesla? JL audio, audison, and Hertz is the only subs to consider
Does this work for 2023 modle 3 rwd? I dont think it have a sub to take output from
It will work for your vehicle with no issues, instead of grabbing signal from the subwoofer, you will want to grab signal from the front door woofers.
@NVXAudio do I take of the door panel or is there another way to get to it
@@deeppatel5673 The signal wires for the woofer in the door can be found in the kick panel harness going into the door boot.
@@NVXAudio can u give me a video that has it or an image of where it would be
does the remote turn-on feature keep the LOC/amp on for about 30 minutes after the car shuts off? I'm currently using another brand of LOC, and it detects the signal to turn on the LOC/amp, but after the car is asleep, the LOC and Amp doesn't turn off for over 30 minutes. The car is a 2021 Model 3 Performance, if it matters. Thanks!
It should shut off with the car
I’m have a strange issue with my XLCA2 which has stopped turning on, but only sometimes.
If I unplug the wire harnesses and measure voltage everything seems fine. I get a good 12V power coming in and around 12V at each speaker wire. The moment I plug in the wiring harnesses, the “maximized” light flashes once and the voltage of the power wire drops to about 5V and the LOC won’t turn on. Oddly enough, the system has been working fine for 4 months and this just started happening recently and only intermittently.
I did try another XLCA2 and the behavior is the same, so it’s not the unit. Any thoughts?
Never mind, all. Traced the problem back to the 12V connection point where I tapped in for power. Wire was loose, so once I put a load on it (plugged the wire harness into the LOC) the voltage dropped. All good now. System is rockin’ again.
What did you set the gain to?
This is a very broad question considering you have to tune multiple devices to work with each other. First you would tune the XLCA2, then the amplifier. Here is a link to a video showing how to tune these in together.
ruclips.net/video/wIybm01vY1M/видео.html
Does this work with the Highland model?
This is now confirmed it does not fit the Highland models.