Vintage Homelite XL Chainsaws - Upgrades!
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- Опубликовано: 30 июл 2024
- In this video, I do some upgrades to my Homelite XL and Super XL chainsaws including making a new chain and bar maintenance.
Here are my older videos on chainsaw maintenance that you might want to check out:
Making a Chainsaw Chain with Breaker and Rivet Spinner
• Making a Chainsaw Chai...
Chainsaw Bar Maintenance
• Chainsaw Bar Maintenance
First! I really enjoy what you teach us young wet behind the ear types👍🏻
He is good and has a lot of knowledge!
Sharing knowledge is one of the best things one can do. When I was apprenticing as an aspiring mechanic, I had some of the best tutors anyone could ask for. They helped me advance my skills and knowledge at a much faster rate than I could have done on my own. I am eternaly grateful for their help in my career.
Thank you for your help
Always like to share info when I can. Thanks for watching.
Another excellent informative video!
Thank You !
Alot of Knowledge and Wisdom...
Thank You for your videos and Great camera work by Momma ..👍👍
thank you for the kind words.
Great Video Sir! I get a kick out of people that keep these saws running and in good shape. Any well built equipment will outlast you when they are well taken care of. The old timers had mad engineering skills. I love watching these good teardown vids. You got awesome skills! I don't notice the weight of it, I tend to love that it's built very stout, to each their own.
I have a handed down Super XL12 and 330, also a new MS250 which is usually stored. I love my Homelite saws, there always cleaned then stored after extended use. They been frequently running fine for over 15 years since I got them without any problems.
Vintage is definatly better. Thanks for the comment and for watching.
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 Yes Sir! Definitely, I have an Arctic Cat 91JagDlx440LT geared low and I just got it running fine after alot of wrench time. I go logging with my rig and sled in tow here in AK.
Great job man! That's a heck of alot of chain! Lol
A must watch video.well done.
Thank You !
Great as usual Mr. Obsolete!
Thank You !
Another great video. Loved the park bout making chain. Ob thought about doing it but not yet. Be kind be safe and have a day.
I put off purchasing the tools for making chains for a long time, but am glad I did . I was hoping to find some vintage tools for this, but never found any. The tools I got are just average quality, but with a little care about setting them up, they do the job. The tools are the ones sold by Oregon, but are not made by them.
Thank you for taking the time to make videos and share your knowledge. We have similar interests (I noticed your shirt), keep up your good work.
We have a lot of different interests and hobbies and will show different aspects of these hobbies as they relate to our channel over time. Thanks for watching.
Informative, Thank you,
Good 👍 job
Great video I learned a few things!
I need to get different grease for those bearings. I was thinking there has to be something thicker than what I have.
And you’re right those bars get neglected big time.
I never used to file my bars because I didn’t know all that much about chainsaws. Then When I bought my Stihl MS 250 I got more into saws and started filing my bar. Amazing how long that original bar and chain lasted.
People throw new chains on old sprockets as well. Another no no.
With a little looking you should be able to find some of that heavy fiber grease. It really stays in the clutch bearing. It took me awhile to learn about bars and chain work too.
I miss that saw but I know it is in good hands!
Just got my homlite "c72" all put back together with 30inch bar",runs like a brand new saw
People do not realize how little it takes to maintain a good saw . When you keep them up , they will never let you down . That goes for all machines .
Doing proper maintenence on saws etc. is the key to making them last for sure.
The main factor is letting them warm up before you run em. If you go balls to the walls right after you start the saw up, youll risk the piston expanding faster than the cylinder with heat.
I use high temp wheel nearing grease on sprocket bearings. Stihl uses White Lithium grease on sprocket bearings. I lube sprocket bearings every year and clean sprockets. At the same time.
Maintaining equipment properly is the key to longetivity.
I clean and sharpen my saws after each use. I replace chains long before they are worn down to minimums.
Some of the old saws I have collected, had the teeth cut down to an 1/8" or less, still cut good, but is a bad practice. Even as thrifty as I am, I never file my chains anywhere near that. When chains are that worn, they are stretched, and wear out the sprocket.
its crazy how those series of homelites, are really similar. too the poulan 245 an 306s
There was a lot of copycat saws out there in the past
That's a serious C clamp you're using. Those big ones are expensive if you buy them new.
I thought the same thing!
The old ones like this are so superior to most on the market today, and with a little junk collecting trips, they can be foundfor not a lot of money.
Good video..nice saw..I need a giant c clamp like that..lol
The vintage clamps are so much better made than the cheapo chinese junkers ones sold everywhere today. Vintage is best !
Thanks for the superb video. On the mentioned follow up video do you plan on covering bar oil pump maintenance? I’ve a red XL 12 and am now getting in my firewood supply for next winter and I notice that the manual oil pump must be pushed many times before any appears on the bar. Do you plan on covering the pump in your follow up video?
Try replacing the o-ring that is on the plunger.
I hadnt planned to, but will talk about in the next video, as it is another area that simply doesnt get much attention. Your most likely problem is debri in the check valve.
Having trouble locating the "long fiber grease" you mention. Can you give us a brand or link? Great videos. Thanks
The grease I have used is STA LUBE ,but it is no longer listed on their current website .Lubrimatic makes some grease that is high temp. for drum and disc brakes, but I dont know if it is the old style long fiber stuff. The key thing is the high temp rating, as drum brakes run a lot hotter than disc brakes. Iwill have to find some to see if it is like the old stuff.
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 Thanks very much for the reply. Love your channel.
Where can I get the big felt filter you are using Sir ??? How about what type of grease do you recommend that stays put ?? I like that you grease the toller nose of the bar. This makes the bar last indefinitely, Period. Thanks for showing us all how to keep the saws working their best too. vf
The big fuel filters were some old stock I bought. I would check on EBAY to see if you can find some like them. The grease I use on my chainsaw bars and clutch bearings is no longer available. It was made by STA LUBE, and was designed for drum brake applications on old cars. It is a very thick long fiber grease, where modern grease is very thin and buttery. I have been looking for a substitute grease to replace my old stuff when I run out, but so far have not been successful.
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 How about we put of two heads together to come up with a solution Mr. Obsoletes Vintage Homesteading. The STA LUBE you have has a specific name and number for the grease. What is that name ??? I will be going to a lot of different events this year as the Covid crap is dying down. This will give me a chance to look very hard for the old grease. Idea, some years ago I was told that grease used on the steam trains has the stay put ability. Maybe that would work. Please drop some thoughts on my ideas. Thank you for making videos that someone can actually learn from. Good luck and peace Sir. vf
The old tub of Sta Lube grease I have is missing the area where the part number would have been. I looked on Sta Lube's website, but only modern greases are listed. I have a can of old open gear and cable grease, but it is too thick to use in a grease gun and wont work. I am not sure of what type grease is used on steam loco's, but it must be very thick, as it is injected with an air operated lubricator. The best bet is swap meets etc. I think. The key point is to find grease that is specified for drum brakes only, as drum brakes run a lot hotter than disc brakes, thus the long fiber and thick density to keep from melting.
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 I will keep you posted Sir. Am sure I can find something. Grease stuff does not really sell at the meets just lays around. Drum brakes only is a good start. Thanks and peace to you fella. Nice and informative videos, I tip my hat to you Sir. vf
Thank you@@victoryfirst2878
What is the part number on the clutch sprocket spur, and where did you get it?
To upgrade an XL 12 to a spur type sprocket and clutch drum is not
a direct bolt on replacement. The parts needed to do this are: 1. A-65990 hub 2. 63284 sprocket 3. 55584 race 4. 72311 bearing. The other thing I had to do was make the spacer washer inside the clutch drum thinner, as it would bind up the clutch otherwise. I found these parts from different sources on EBAY. I cant imagine why Homelite didnt make a direct bolt on replacement clutch drum.
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 will this fit a super xl too?
yes, if the crank is the same diameter, which most are.@@Autigers2013
Can you turn the drum over and reuse?
I wouldn't recommend it.
WHERE DID YOU SOURCE YOUR CLUTCH SPROCKET?
I purchased it off from EBAY. The XL saws had several different styles of clutches, and use different mounting pieces, so are only interchangeable as a complete unit. I have an original parts manual, matched up the type of clutch I had, and found the correct clutch, and purchased it.
Where to order parts?
Leons chainsaw parts and repair and EBAY.
It's been my experience that when I see the cutter tooth in that shape it is because most guys don't understand what the depth gage in front of every tooth is designed to do! And I call it a depth gage enstead of a raker!Because that is what Oregon chain calls it! And I'm not sure where or when the word raker came from? But it's my belief that if men were told that it's a depth gage, That they might just get an understanding from it's called, That it has something to do with how deep your cutting! Instead! The word raker does not set the little light bulb aglow in their brains how important the function is, So they file the cutter to a little nub! Trying to make the saw throw some chips to no avail! And I know this because, I have a collection of around 70 saws, And twice that many chains as well! And I see the same thing over and over again!The cutter tooth is whittled down to a nub and the depth gage has never been touched with a file in the whole time it was on the saw!🙄
You are right about the depth gauge being the right terminology, instead of raker gauge, but most refer to them as such. Home owner grade saws are the worst when it comes to chain maintenence and many opt to buy new chains rather than learn how to sharpen the chain properly and with the correct tools.