When doing door adjustments on a convertible, it's crucial to have the car sitting on its suspension. When you put the car on jack stands, the frame will flex at the point where the jack stands are located causing the front and rear of the car to slightly sag downward. This is why the gaps at the top of the doors are wide and the gaps at the bottom are about right before you did any adjustments. Also make sure the rubber mounts between the frame and body are in decent shape. My guess is once you put the car back down on its wheels those upper door gaps will close up some.
Correct and good advice. I’m waiting to finish replacing the rear wheel bearings and will do the door gaps once the car is back on wheels. All the frame mounts look to be in good shape. I’ve also noted that some people recommend shimming the body supports to adjust door gaps, rather than changing the fiberglass on the doors. Makes sense, since the rubber body mounts will compress over time, but the doors don’t!
I've researched this topic extensively. Most of these cars left the factory with a horrible front door gap. Especially at the top. Get the back lined up straight and even and glass in the front of the door.
I believe this 100% There are a lot of people that shouldn't be F@#king around with cars, whoever owned my car screwed the doors up real good. But yes, these cars were never perfect from the factory, this video was very helpful and glad I have it saved in my folder.
P.S. @ a10:45 in the video, I would have left it and painted it, But being a protectionist probably not hahaha. These gaps are perfect, man I will be watching this video allot 😂
These cars were "handmade" back in the day. You might consider using fiberglass to modify the edges of the fender instead of jerking around with the door. A couple of layers of fiberglass mat built up oversize a bit and then sanded down to make the gap the way you want isn't that hard to do. These parts were laid up individually and not stamped like sheet metal. Corvettes were actually designed with the idea that they would last about ten years. Nobody ever thought they would become valuable classics. However, it is your car so obviously do what you think is best.
@@louislazarus9253 Yes, i’ve noticed that a lot of people will add to the door edges to make the gaps uniform and tighter. I decided to leave mine the way they were because the door adjustment made them within acceptable specs. I don’t mind if it has a little bit of the original handmade look.
I have a 76 Corvette. A Complete body off restore. I Replaced all of the body mounts so they are new. After my door adjustment to the Back of door it is gap aligned nicely but the front at the top between fender and door was wider about 3/4 inch. I Found that the whole front of the fender clip assembly was too low so I had to raise it and use spacers and readjust and tighten the 6 bolts bringing the front nose upward closing off the top gap. It Required a floor jack on the front headlamp Vacuum tube and loosing the bolts on each side. It was also causing my wide tires to rub the front of the fender about 1/4 inch as the front clip was a little low. Think of it this way. A straight line and it starts to bend down way on the line near the front door. By raising that line on the front you lift the line straight. This is a problem as the body mounts collapse over the years and the front extension is not readjusted upward to compensate for the new body mounts which were higher. Even a 1/4 inch makes a big difference.
Good info. I may have the same issue, but it won’t be apparent until the doors go back on. I have a little rub on the PS tire, at the forward wheel well. Could be what you’re talking about (front clip sag), however the body mounts all look to be in good shape. I have other fish to fry at the moment, but it’s good to be aware of the body mount issue. Seems like lots of people go to adding material to the doors to address gap, but what they should do first, is make sure the body mounts and shims are all done first.
Not yet, but I probably will. It’s pretty straightforward. The hinges move a couple different ways. Just use common sense and adjust until the gaps are good. There are also shims under the hinges that affect how the front of the door lines up with the body.
@@thedrivewayC3 Luckily the guy that painted the car and did the body work has all the shims in place (on the car side hinges). Hoping getting the doors on now, since he has done that previously will be easier. Would post pictures in the comments but you can view video of the hinges on my youtube page.
Good job.
Boy dis a time saver thank got a c3 I’ve been on for a minute and this is da best video I’ve found on aligning da doors thanks
When doing door adjustments on a convertible, it's crucial to have the car sitting on its suspension. When you put the car on jack stands, the frame will flex at the point where the jack stands are located causing the front and rear of the car to slightly sag downward. This is why the gaps at the top of the doors are wide and the gaps at the bottom are about right before you did any adjustments. Also make sure the rubber mounts between the frame and body are in decent shape. My guess is once you put the car back down on its wheels those upper door gaps will close up some.
Correct and good advice. I’m waiting to finish replacing the rear wheel bearings and will do the door gaps once the car is back on wheels. All the frame mounts look to be in good shape. I’ve also noted that some people recommend shimming the body supports to adjust door gaps, rather than changing the fiberglass on the doors. Makes sense, since the rubber body mounts will compress over time, but the doors don’t!
Mr Grant Johnson is 100% correct. Pay attention to his comment. It will save you a lot of wasted effort.
This was great, thanks.
I've researched this topic extensively. Most of these cars left the factory with a horrible front door gap. Especially at the top. Get the back lined up straight and even and glass in the front of the door.
I believe this 100%
There are a lot of people that shouldn't be F@#king around with cars, whoever owned my car screwed the doors up real good.
But yes, these cars were never perfect from the factory, this video was very helpful and glad I have it saved in my folder.
P.S.
@ a10:45 in the video, I would have left it and painted it, But being a protectionist probably not hahaha.
These gaps are perfect, man I will be watching this video allot 😂
These cars were "handmade" back in the day. You might consider using fiberglass to modify the edges of the fender instead of jerking around with the door. A couple of layers of fiberglass mat built up oversize a bit and then sanded down to make the gap the way you want isn't that hard to do. These parts were laid up individually and not stamped like sheet metal. Corvettes were actually designed with the idea that they would last about ten years. Nobody ever thought they would become valuable classics. However, it is your car so obviously do what you think is best.
@@louislazarus9253 Yes, i’ve noticed that a lot of people will add to the door edges to make the gaps uniform and tighter. I decided to leave mine the way they were because the door adjustment made them within acceptable specs. I don’t mind if it has a little bit of the original handmade look.
I have a 76 Corvette. A Complete body off restore. I Replaced all of the body mounts so they are new. After my door adjustment to the Back of door it is gap aligned nicely but the front at the top between fender and door was wider about 3/4 inch. I Found that the whole front of the fender clip assembly was too low so I had to raise it and use spacers and readjust and tighten the 6 bolts bringing the front nose upward closing off the top gap. It Required a floor jack on the front headlamp Vacuum tube and loosing the bolts on each side. It was also causing my wide tires to rub the front of the fender about 1/4 inch as the front clip was a little low. Think of it this way. A straight line and it starts to bend down way on the line near the front door. By raising that line on the front you lift the line straight. This is a problem as the body mounts collapse over the years and the front extension is not readjusted upward to compensate for the new body mounts which were higher. Even a 1/4 inch makes a big difference.
Good info. I may have the same issue, but it won’t be apparent until the doors go back on. I have a little rub on the PS tire, at the forward wheel well. Could be what you’re talking about (front clip sag), however the body mounts all look to be in good shape.
I have other fish to fry at the moment, but it’s good to be aware of the body mount issue. Seems like lots of people go to adding material to the doors to address gap, but what they should do first, is make sure the body mounts and shims are all done first.
Do you have a video on how to bolt on the doors?
Not yet, but I probably will. It’s pretty straightforward. The hinges move a couple different ways. Just use common sense and adjust until the gaps are good. There are also shims under the hinges that affect how the front of the door lines up with the body.
@@thedrivewayC3 Luckily the guy that painted the car and did the body work has all the shims in place (on the car side hinges). Hoping getting the doors on now, since he has done that previously will be easier. Would post pictures in the comments but you can view video of the hinges on my youtube page.
@@c1nicolei The shims are often adjusted (added or removed) as part of the door installation, not unlike installing a house window or door frame.
Don't leave the metal shavings inside the door panel ! 😁
I’m not. Thanks for the recommendation! Good looking out.
Its not a 76