Thank you so much. This was EXACTLY the problem that I had. Replaced the door handle last year. Last week locked the car and the door wouldn’t open. Used the trick to get it open then adjusted the rod and put it back together. You guys are the best. Thanks for all the great content!!
Excellent,very well explanation , I was worried on my 71, I could not open the driver door,I thought I would have to tear up a good door panel,it’s good to know a solution,thank you from a life long C3 owner and a big fan!
Sir, I can't thank you enough for this video. Been fighting lock issues for the last 10 years and been locked out about 3 times including 2 days ago. Managed to get it open without removing the door panel and also made the adjustment on the linkage and it works perfect.
Thanks a million times! I just reinstalled the lock on my 73 Corvette and tested what you described. The door would not open! I adjusted everything now it works!
Beautiful video. My exact problem. Wish I seen this video back then. Certainly, am going to readjust both doors now, correctly. Thank you for sharing this.
HOLY CRAP! It works ..... I can't thank you enough! I got into my car in about 10 seconds. TIP: I have a wand flashlight from Harbor Freight thats thin enough to slide into window frame. You can actually see the locking mechanism and the lock/unlock lever. I used a long screwdriver and was able to hit the lever in just a couple seconds. I could hear it click and I was in! Thanks again.
Today I was trying my door handles to make sure doors were locked. They were indeed locked. I guess I should not have done that. Hope I can open the door tomorrow. Great video
My passenger door has not opened in a few years. I watched your video on today and got inspired. After watching I seen that I was focusing on the wrong area. It took me about 20 or 30 minutes and I got it! Thank you for the help!
I was having a similar problem. I had replaced my door handle at some point because it had a broken spring. Everything worked just fine until one day I went to unlock the door but the key wouldn't turn enough to the right to fully unlock the door. The culprit is that round pin (as you stated). The important thing to know is, if the round pin is screwed up too high, the door handle, when pushed down, won't open the door. If the round pin is screwed too low, the key won't unlock the door. That round pin needs to be at the perfect level (give or take a thread or two) to work correctly.
That was exactly what happend to me (too). I also found a way to unlock the door even if this happens - but that is probably due to the fact that it is "quite close" to open anyway. So, when the situation occurs: 1) I turn the key to open position, it does not go "all the way" and feels "bit off". 2) I squeeze the handle and release it rapidly (this puts the stuff "into place" inside the door) 3) I turn the key to "open position" again, and now it goes all they way in normally. I have also lubricated all the lock parts inside that they would move as easily as possible - that helps too. But the little clip that keeps the rod in place - that is _really_ hard to remove and put back on... :
Others may have had this issue: recently after my 1970 Vette was in storage a few years I found the unlocked drivers door wouldn't open from the inside lever and took substantial force to push down on the ouside handle to get it unlatched. Removed the door panel and found binding or frozen linkage for the latch and also locking mechanism, due to old hardened grease. Used WD40 to free up all the pivot points and applied white grease. All well so far.
@Agustin Lopez no not yet, but I'm still fixing the vacuum system for the headlights. Replaced the relays, repaired the actuators, and am waiting for my new light switch.
I had the same problem with my 73 drivers' side. Before trying this I sprayed a litte WD40 into the key hole and jiggled the lock ...it opened. Thought I'd share this so everyone can try this step first
This was my question too. After removing the door card there's so much metal on the interior portion of the door that you can't reach any of the locking mechanisms. My door handle could be replaced too but I have no idea how to reach that. Can you offer any guidance on how to reach all this stuff when the metal interior portion of the door is on?
Any tips on how to do this with the painted skin still on the car? I removed the door panel and am able to see where I need to make the adjustment but I can’t seem to get that rod out to be able to turn it. Also, I’m afraid I can’t get it back into the hole due to not being able to get two hands on there.
I have the same issue. He has the entire interior portion of the door cut out. But for all of us who have that metal interior portion of the door intact, there's no way to reach any of these mechanisms
If I adjust it to the point that the pin goes in with no tension the handle has to travel so far that my wife or mother in law are not strong enough to open the door. Also with that pin all the way in the clip will not go back on because the groove is at the end of the pin. How do you get it back on?
Hi there. I hope you can help me. I have this exact situation on both doors and I am locked out of the car. I have the key, but when turning the key, it doesn’t seem to unlock anything. It just turns smoothly (not connected to the latch). Any trick on how to open the door from the outside only?
Hola tengo problema de abrir Corvette c3 , se descargo la batería y coche esta cerrado, con la llave no abre ninguna de las puertas, esto es normal que no puedo abrir puertas si no hay corriente ???
I have a question I hope you can answer how do you get around the plastic piece that sits in front of the door latch that diverts rainwater. I really hope you can answer my comment. I am dealing with this issue at the moment however I can't get to the tab with the black plastic piece that's in front of the latch mechanism
I know this post is a year old, but I did want to address it, since few C3 owners are. I've also noticed that many of the videos and tutorials online are missing this diverter, confusing the issue. You'll have to remove that, before you can make any adjustments and you'll need to already have access to the car interior to remove it. There are two screws holding it in place. One at the top of the door by the door jam and one at the top of the door, under the inside door panel (card). After the screws are removed, push it down to the bottom of the door to remove it via the bottom access panel, while you work on adjusting the latch. When you're finished, don't for get to put it back the same way it came out.
i have no heat in my c4. i cant find anything online for the two hoses i need to disconnect to back flush it. got lots of goo in my res tank, must be some of that blocking my heater core. got lots of cold air, just not heat. ps. does the air con control the heat too? is there a way to heat and or just blow air without the air con on? or is mine not working properly? thanks
If I understand your question you wonder where the heater hoses go? I don´t know about LT1 but on L98 they are located one on the water pump and one under the throttle body. Just follow them and you´ll find their other ends on the heater. The LT1 is probably similar, I just don´t remember. Lots of goo in the system probably means that it has been run for many years without any anti-freeze which might result in needing a complete flush with a good radiator cleaner. Remember to always use anti-freeze as this prevents corrosion. And yes, the ACC panel controls the heat as well. Disconneccting the connector at the AC-compressor is the way to run the heat and/or blow air without having the air con on. Air con blowing hot air is usually just a matter of filling the AC-system.
Currently unavailable. GM discontinued them and not picked up in the aftermarket yet. I would assume they will be back in production sometime in '22. Lyle
Looks to me like this guy was cheating. When he inserted the screw driver, he inserted it horizontally. Maybe you can do this if the interior door panel is off, however if you get the dreaded door lockout, the door panel will most certainly be on. You then have to insert the screwdriver vertically down through a crack between the window and the door window opening.. It's a little more tricky to do using the screwdriver vertically. Also, from 1970 (?) on-ward, GM started including a plastic guard cover on top of the door latch to defeat inserting the screwdriver vertically. The demo would be much more interesting if the plastic shield was included in this demonstration door. Anyhow the value of this demo is that the little lever that is the key to opening the door is revealed. The latch is an interesting mechanism...pretty ingenious.
Stick a long screwdriver down your window to try and force the lock down that you can't see, then take your door panel apart to try and adjust the lock mechanism Yeah sounds like a easy fix
Thank you so much. This was EXACTLY the problem that I had. Replaced the door handle last year. Last week locked the car and the door wouldn’t open. Used the trick to get it open then adjusted the rod and put it back together. You guys are the best. Thanks for all the great content!!
Excellent,very well explanation , I was worried on my 71, I could not open the driver door,I thought I would have to tear up a good door panel,it’s good to know a solution,thank you from a life long C3 owner and a big fan!
Restoring my 69. Love all your videos on the C3. Very helpful. Thanks!
Sir, I can't thank you enough for this video. Been fighting lock issues for the last 10 years and been locked out about 3 times including 2 days ago. Managed to get it open without removing the door panel and also made the adjustment on the linkage and it works perfect.
How did you make the adjustment without taking the outer skin off? I can’t seem to get mine off as easily as the video shows.
Thanks for the great video, I can finally put a more permanent fix than just riding with my door panels off
What a wonderful Helpful Video, Thank you big time, for this video. You saved me hours and possibly ruining the door panel of my 1971.
Thanks Steve. New C3 owner with locked driver door. fortunately, window was/is down.
Thanks a million times! I just reinstalled the lock on my 73 Corvette and tested what you described. The door would not open! I adjusted everything now it works!
Beautiful video. My exact problem. Wish I seen this video back then. Certainly, am going to readjust both doors now, correctly. Thank you for sharing this.
HOLY CRAP! It works ..... I can't thank you enough! I got into my car in about 10 seconds. TIP: I have a wand flashlight from Harbor Freight thats thin enough to slide into window frame. You can actually see the locking mechanism and the lock/unlock lever. I used a long screwdriver and was able to hit the lever in just a couple seconds. I could hear it click and I was in! Thanks again.
Good to know, Steve. I hope I never run into that issue!
Today I was trying my door handles to make sure doors were locked. They were indeed locked. I guess I should not have done that. Hope I can open the door tomorrow. Great video
My passenger door has not opened in a few years. I watched your video on today and got inspired. After watching I seen that I was focusing on the wrong area. It took me about 20 or 30 minutes and I got it! Thank you for the help!
Thank you Steve! This helped us adjust the lock properly on our C3 after replacing the exterior handles.
I was having a similar problem. I had replaced my door handle at some point because it had a broken spring. Everything worked just fine until one day I went to unlock the door but the key wouldn't turn enough to the right to fully unlock the door. The culprit is that round pin (as you stated). The important thing to know is, if the round pin is screwed up too high, the door handle, when pushed down, won't open the door. If the round pin is screwed too low, the key won't unlock the door. That round pin needs to be at the perfect level (give or take a thread or two) to work correctly.
Yesterday my 75 door would not lock. Today I can't get it unlocked and I think this video is going to help me. Thanks.
That was exactly what happend to me (too).
I also found a way to unlock the door even if this happens - but that is probably due to the fact that it is "quite close" to open anyway. So, when the situation occurs:
1) I turn the key to open position, it does not go "all the way" and feels "bit off".
2) I squeeze the handle and release it rapidly (this puts the stuff "into place" inside the door)
3) I turn the key to "open position" again, and now it goes all they way in normally.
I have also lubricated all the lock parts inside that they would move as easily as possible - that helps too.
But the little clip that keeps the rod in place - that is _really_ hard to remove and put back on... :
Thanks, Bud! This was the first of many things I'll be dealing with on my resto.
Great video I just had that problem in the fall before putting it in storage. Now when I get the car out I can get the door open and fix it thanks.
Thanks for the information just put new handles and locks in my 81 will go Back and adjust before it happens thanks again
Others may have had this issue: recently after my 1970 Vette was in storage a few years I found the unlocked drivers door wouldn't open from the inside lever and took substantial force to push down on the ouside handle to get it unlatched. Removed the door panel and found binding or frozen linkage for the latch and also locking mechanism, due to old hardened grease. Used WD40 to free up all the pivot points and applied white grease. All well so far.
You seem to be working that rod from the side that you have the door cut away. How do you get at that rod from the panel side?
Thanks Steve, nice tip. Where's Lyle? I seen him in the background, must be busy.. Anyway you done a fine job explaining how to fix it..
Thanks! Now can you show us a fix for C3 power windows that "clunk," when going down, or up. Thanks!
My 81 passenger side is doing that. I'll do this and tell ya what happens. Thanks for the tip.
Did you fix your door?
@Agustin Lopez no not yet, but I'm still fixing the vacuum system for the headlights. Replaced the relays, repaired the actuators, and am waiting for my new light switch.
@@gizzmo5952 thats something i need to do as well man when my car turns off one headlight stays up
I had the same problem with my 73 drivers' side. Before trying this I sprayed a litte WD40 into the key hole and jiggled the lock ...it opened. Thought I'd share this so everyone can try this step first
I have this problem. I'll give it a try. Thanks for the video!
Good luck! I had this problem today! Please give updates!
Ahhhh thank you, dealing with this very problem on my passenger door on my 71.
Appreciate you 👍❤
Can you show me how to take the panel off so I can fix the handle on my 1980 C3?
so i have to cut a hole on the outside of the door to get access to that adjustment ? how do you access that adjustment linkage and clip?
This was my question too. After removing the door card there's so much metal on the interior portion of the door that you can't reach any of the locking mechanisms. My door handle could be replaced too but I have no idea how to reach that. Can you offer any guidance on how to reach all this stuff when the metal interior portion of the door is on?
Any tips on how to do this with the painted skin still on the car? I removed the door panel and am able to see where I need to make the adjustment but I can’t seem to get that rod out to be able to turn it. Also, I’m afraid I can’t get it back into the hole due to not being able to get two hands on there.
I have the same issue. He has the entire interior portion of the door cut out. But for all of us who have that metal interior portion of the door intact, there's no way to reach any of these mechanisms
I had this exact problem. Thanks for sharing. The fix worked exactly as described.
Thank you for the video! You saved my bacon getting into my 1969 coupe.
Thanks!
You bet!
always very informative videos...
If I adjust it to the point that the pin goes in with no tension the handle has to travel so far that my wife or mother in law are not strong enough to open the door. Also with that pin all the way in the clip will not go back on because the groove is at the end of the pin. How do you get it back on?
great video - what type of clip goes on the end where you shortened it?
Thanks, good video....
Hi there. I hope you can help me. I have this exact situation on both doors and I am locked out of the car. I have the key, but when turning the key, it doesn’t seem to unlock anything. It just turns smoothly (not connected to the latch). Any trick on how to open the door from the outside only?
Thanks good jobs
Parabéns , são pessoas como você que fazem um mundo melhor !!
Sir. Do have have knowledge on how to unlock the T top locks on a 76 vette ? Just purchased the car and have no keys!!
Thanks
Gary Holloway
Hola tengo problema de abrir Corvette c3 , se descargo la batería y coche esta cerrado, con la llave no abre ninguna de las puertas, esto es normal que no puedo abrir puertas si no hay corriente ???
Thank you for this great advice!
I have a question I hope you can answer how do you get around the plastic piece that sits in front of the door latch that diverts rainwater. I really hope you can answer my comment. I am dealing with this issue at the moment however I can't get to the tab with the black plastic piece that's in front of the latch mechanism
I know this post is a year old, but I did want to address it, since few C3 owners are. I've also noticed that many of the videos and tutorials online are missing this diverter, confusing the issue. You'll have to remove that, before you can make any adjustments and you'll need to already have access to the car interior to remove it.
There are two screws holding it in place. One at the top of the door by the door jam and one at the top of the door, under the inside door panel (card). After the screws are removed, push it down to the bottom of the door to remove it via the bottom access panel, while you work on adjusting the latch. When you're finished, don't for get to put it back the same way it came out.
From the video it looks like the screwdriver wasn’t the fix. It took you hand to push the lever down. What am I missing.
Thanks
It worked! Thanks for the video!!!
Thank you so much. You saved me!
Thank you 🙏
Can you us a slim Jim on it
Nope--There is a plastic shield put in place by the factory to keep that from happening. Lyle
What about if you locked your keys in the car and you can’t get in either door? And the windows are up.
Time to call a locksmith at that point--you will do more damage trying to get in than necessary. Lyle
Thank you for this video!!
Awesome video! Thanks!
i have no heat in my c4. i cant find anything online for the two hoses i need to disconnect to back flush it. got lots of goo in my res tank, must be some of that blocking my heater core. got lots of cold air, just not heat.
ps. does the air con control the heat too? is there a way to heat and or just blow air without the air con on? or is mine not working properly?
thanks
If I understand your question you wonder where the heater hoses go?
I don´t know about LT1 but on L98 they are located one on the water pump and one under the throttle body. Just follow them and you´ll find their other ends on the heater. The LT1 is probably similar, I just don´t remember.
Lots of goo in the system probably means that it has been run for many years without any anti-freeze which might result in needing a complete flush with a good radiator cleaner.
Remember to always use anti-freeze as this prevents corrosion.
And yes, the ACC panel controls the heat as well. Disconneccting the connector at the AC-compressor is the way to run the heat and/or blow air without having the air con on.
Air con blowing hot air is usually just a matter of filling the AC-system.
Well, both of my doors are locked and I’m stuck
Can not lower window what can I do
Time to pull the door panel and start testing the motor and regulator assembly by putting power directly to the plug on the motor... Lyle
Very helpful. Thanks
Thanks, I did it!!!😅😅
where can i get a key fob for my c4?
Currently unavailable. GM discontinued them and not picked up in the aftermarket yet. I would assume they will be back in production sometime in '22. Lyle
Looks to me like this guy was cheating. When he inserted the screw driver, he inserted it horizontally. Maybe you can do this if the interior door panel is off, however if you get the dreaded door lockout, the door panel will most certainly be on. You then have to insert the screwdriver vertically down through a crack between the window and the door window opening.. It's a little more tricky to do using the screwdriver vertically. Also, from 1970 (?) on-ward, GM started including a plastic guard cover on top of the door latch to defeat inserting the screwdriver vertically. The demo would be much more interesting if the plastic shield was included in this demonstration door. Anyhow the value of this demo is that the little lever that is the key to opening the door is revealed. The latch is an interesting mechanism...pretty ingenious.
Stick a long screwdriver down your window to try and force the lock down that you can't see, then take your door panel apart to try and adjust the lock mechanism Yeah sounds like a easy fix
Easy? not very. Effective? Absolutely. :) Lyle
Far out...
Next, on engineering disasters….. ;-)
I got a white 1980 c3 corvette stingray here and the video doesn't help so $12k who wants it