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Nice...... hoping to post my own version of this , SOMEDAY!!!

I have got to tell you that after owning both a '69 and '82 there is nothing like the view from the driver's seat, totally the balls!

Really sweet. Love the pipes. Every minute of your labor was worth it to me.

Who else here feared a crash?!

Sounds great Kalani..... progress being made for sure.....😁😁👍😎

Thank you so much for making this video! About to do the same on my 1973 in spring. Grtz from the Netherlands.

Set car on its wheels first. Now attach doors with all hinge bolts just near finger tight and striker bolt loose. Carefully close door. Align the door all around. I use a couple pieces of 1” x 1” blocks to hold it up in place. Tighten the hinge bolts. Add or remove door shims to flush top and/or bottom of door.

Looks like a joy to drive!

nice job, nice videos. well done.

Torque monster

We MUST-as the consumer-stop accepting these junk aftermarket parts. Thats the only way to stop assisting these unscrupulous people in ripping us off. Send them back

Quality has gone to crap today. For Now an alternative may be to use aftermarket fiberglass ones, sand & file fit-to perfection using a straight edge, then have them chrome wrapped. Goid luck!

I've checked in to chroming my front bumper and I can buy a new one cheaper. Even the Chinese made copies look pretty good.

Very savable. Send them in for re-chrome.

Factory parts fits better. A chrome shop can do the fixes and the parts looks like new, but is not cheap. The problem, it needs more work for re-chrome than a first time chromed. After dechrome they need to fix every imperfections, rust and more for a perfect flat surface to rechrome. . Alot of labor hours.

FYI. Not ideal for interior trim that will be handled at all. The finish breaks down with the oils in your hands.

The front bumper with the extra 90 on the tabs is for the 70-72. They have different bumperettes compared to 68 and 69. Everything can be fixed by a chrome shop. I opted to not chrome the license plate deal and get a new one. They are not a good metal from the factory and the putting is oxides that are in the metal. It is cheaper to replace those and exhaust bezels rather than rechrome. Plus the license plate deal is a pain to chrome because it is hard to plate the inside corners well.

From my personal experience, a top tier chrome shop can restore everything shown, including the bolt connections and minor dings but it will be VERY expensive...maybe more than what it would cost for some repo parts. If these are GM parts, they're worth trying to salvage. However, the compound bends as you know, will be tricky and likely involve heating and the services of a fab shop. Of course, dry fit the re-fabbed and other parts to the car prior to chroming.

Any good chrome shop can fix all of the aesthetic and repair issues with your pieces. The original pieces are made of better quality material than the after market and will actually fit (many after market bumpers do not fit correctly). One thing I would do is test fit them and make all the adjustments prior to the re-chrome (so they don’t accidentally get damaged during assembly).

Reproductions never fit as well as originals. Test fit your bumpers first. I used a rubber mallet to carefully to reshape bumper imperfections. Your parts can definitely be rechromed.

All these questions can be answered by the chrome shop you choose to do the work. There is a place called THE BUMPER SHOP in California, I have used them many years ago.

My Rear bumpers looked like yours and rechrome came out nice. I'm very happy with mine.

Fantastic and very helpful video! Thanks so much for the effort making it!

This exact assembly is what I installed on my 1965 Chevy Impala SS. It's a bolt on plug n play no mods necessary. In order to keep my 14 inch wheels/Wheel Covers I install 1 inch spacers. Viola!!!

Nice work on this video. The vintage air ductwork on my 73, is not allowing me to install the gauge panel, and radio. I squeezed the ducts "flat" but still need another inch to push in the gauge panel. Did you have to modify the ducts to get yours into place? So frustrating! Thanks for your time.

I have a question for ya I am struggling to get my top to release properly how do you adjust the lid so the top will work properly ? My deck lid opens fine but the top will not release properly to put it down. I end up grabbing the front of the top and pull it to get the rear release posts to pop up. Help!

Nice bike brother thank you for sharing 🇺🇸

4:15 Great idea! I tried installing my new slide panel and ended up with it not sliding, so I pulled it back out until I figured out a fix. The rear bolt hack is a good tip, too. Thanks!

Nice bike ! Wax and polish show you’re not a lazy slob ! Try Nufinish wax, it’s petroleum based and you can polish it off in the hot sun with ease. It blows everything away in my opinion.

I just switched from original Setup to performer intake and edelbrock 1406 and the fuel line doesnt fit anymore. Does anybody know a quick and easy solution for the fuel line?

Enjoying your videos. I just dealt with this same repair on my 74. I have read repeatedly that those original design Rochester valves are crap and will absolutely fail again after replacement. Another option is an inline vent valve. The one I used is called a Newton-TPV8 from Newton Equipment if you want to go that route next time

Most GM restoration parts I have used have been a disappointment. You Pay good money for what is not a reproduction, and often not even close. Yes, you need to use gasket sealer that will not be affected by gasoline like HiTack, etc. Keep an eye out for any future leaks, fuel leaks on top of exhaust is obviously a concerning scenario. I have owned my red 72 Corvette convertible for 34 years, enjoy working on your C3. Cheers.

Appreciate the video. My 73 has the same issue so it has been added to the list of springtime repairs.

Going to eventually leak. Years later the new owner will blame Bubba.

with a non vented cap it might be under some preasure.

BTW, every single one of my housing studs broke off too. This after maybe 6 days of applying Blaster, heating them up, wire brushing the stud, etc. I wonder if the small Rivnuts will fit in there? I think the holes in the rear panel will need to be opened a bit to accommodate, but am thinking the increased contact of the threads running in that Rivnut may increase conduction. What do you think? I do not have a welder or I would do the carriage bolts and tack them onto the housing.

Great tip for removing the bolt coatings/platings to increase conductivity! I am going to add a layer of copper on mine after stripping them like that, to increase conductivity. I learned that you take a small spoon full of Zep “Root Kill” crystals and put into a small container such as a cough syrup cup. After mixing a bit and setting a bit, the water will be really blue. You can either brush it onto raw steel or soak a bolt in it and a layer of copper gets deposited. Pretty cool to see it happen in front of your eyes.

For me, it's the hardest thing to get to that's always the problem.

as stated below it can be reached but it is a royal pain in the ass. upper left side, center. I just took a short piece of fuel hose, three inches. and plugged one end with a bolt and hose clamp. then after fighting the old hose off put the short piece on with another hose clamp. maybe pulling the tank is the best way but I could not face that .

Are you sure you have this hooked up correctly? Shouldn't the blue wire (30 positive) be going to the constant power block and the red wire (87A) be going to the ACC block? That is how I am reading the instructions for the EpAuto 12v Bosch style relay.

Good news is that they are available for around 40 bucks... but a PITA to replace without dropping the tank. Mine was cracked and I noticed it when I was swapping it to the new gas tank. Good luck. BTW, I like your videos. Please keep sharing. 👍

Definitely looks like the valve. Sometimes they will crack. I had the hose barb come off mine. You will also want to test the replacement to make sure it is good.

if you buy your regulator on rock auto make sure the spring is already attached!!! now I'm stuck doing this without a vice....

Clear lenses, like the take light that is yellowed… put it in a glass container. Pour in hydrogen peroxide so that the lense is covered, then secure some plastic wrap over the lid with a rubber band. Sit it out into direct sunlight. That will turn it clear again. You can polish it either before or doing that. Did my front parking light lenses and made quite the difference.

I am doing a similar restoration of my 1968 roadster and your videos have saved me hours here and there. I am attempting to remove my carpet and am struggling withe “liquid nails” type glue that was used to secure the rubber matting and carpet jutting. Any advice?

Buenas. Que torke lleba la tuerca del diferencial. Gracias

I really like that stain. You mentioned it is called "Imperial Red" but I'm not finding it. Was it Minwax brand?

Looking really good brother!

Nice

I love driving my '81. Go man go!