will you make a video on grip strength and grip training (wrists, fingers, hand) i really lack in that field and dont know anything about it nor do i know how to train or what to train types of grips too
I was watching your video yesterday on Pete Whitakker! Awesome job! Between this channel, lattice and yours I just dont feel like I can have better sources of education when it comes to climbing training and psychology :) Cheers from Brazil!
@@HoopersBeta In the principle of specificity, the closer an exercise resembles the actual targeted movement the more useful the exercise is. Is there a reason why most of the exercises in this video are off the wall; Wouldn't on-the-wall exercises would be more useful for climbing? Also, the focus of this video to me was physical/full body exercises, but is there anything you could elaborate on (or direct to a previous video) for training cycles (macrocycle, mesocycle, etc.) and power systems training (anaerobic, aerobic)? Thank you for your hard work HoopersBeta!
Exercises for the not super strong: (1) 14:57 Horizontal Row with Barbell (2) 23:24 Shoulder External Rotation with light bar/dumbbells (3) Bench and Overhead Press 36:24 (4) 51:14 Hang board (probably not fully weighted) in position shown (5) Pulling on Band with Toe 58:58 (6) Hamstring curls with Monkey Feet weight attachments 1:02:57 (7) Sliders holding on to countertop or chair 1:07:50. Thank you guys!! Great tips!
As somebody coming from weight training to climbing who loves the science behind everything as well as the balance between "the most optimal" vs what is realistic and necessary, this video and this channel is absurd. It's incredible. Thank you.
It sounds kind of obvious in retrospect, but I want to credit your videos for helping me to think differently about not just training for climbing, but time management in general for achieving goals. Your outlook about how you choose to allocate the limited time we have to devote to our hobbies and goals has guided me to be more mindful about the importance of being thoughtful and strategic when pursuing said goals.
This is such a relieving guide, no other channel combines anatomy and practical exercises in such a seemless way. I will be including the techniques and concepts into my training!
@@HoopersBeta Thank you so much for this video! I did the inverted rows on the rings for the first time yesterday and I feel like i've been hit by a train .. in a good way :P :D
I really appreciate the time and effort you've spent on this video. I feel like there is a probably a section or few for everyone that they can use that's specific to them.
Thanks so much, it‘s massively helpful to get a general idea what to work on and what maybe be a waste of time and energy. This is definitely one of the best climbing training videos i‘ve seen in years!
Thank you so much for this video! I'm so grateful for all this information. I also love how you can see Dan is thoughtful about every word he is saying, not making it too complex but also not too simple.
A great lower body exercise that I recommend for training hamstrings and a little bit of core stability are fitball bridges. (I will now try do describe it to the best of my abilities). You, of course, get a fitball lie down on the floor then place your feet on the ball and from there you bend your knees trying to keep your trunk/core in line with the legs. It's great because you can then progress by only doing it one leg at a time, or just using one leg for the eccentric or concentric part and then using both legs for the other part. Of you can do it with only one leg, try doing it keeping the other leg straight or bending it to reduce the intensity. Usually do 3 sets of 10 on each side and go home with my legs on fire so I hope it's usefull for others :)
Thank you, guys, incredibly helpful! It will make my training so much more effective, I gonna forward it to all my climbing friends who are not subscribers already (and I truly don't understand why they are not...)
A couple clarifying questions. At 3:40 and 7:30, Dan recommends moving to a one arm pull-up after you can achieve a 50-60% bodyweight pull-up. Is that for one singular rep, or one set of 5-6 reps? or more? Also, at 54:00 when Dan says you can grab a beam or use a band to assist single leg squats, does he just mean use your upper body to pull yourself up a little in order to assist yourself? Awesome video, thanks.
Thank you for this awesome video. As always, you managed to keep it light with some humor in there, so it's fun to watch. Train, climb, send, make a video, repeat please!
@@HoopersBeta During the external rotation exercise, should the scapula be retracted and the bottom part of them squeezed together throughout the whole exercise?
You've blessed so many people with this video. Thank you very much! It is so well made and structured, packed with only relevant information. I'll be definiteley coming back to this. Thanks a lot!
I had to stop bouldering for nearly a year after getting a nasty open fracture on my left leg from a dyno-accident, but I am very excited to start bouldering again next month and your video helps me a lot to plan and motivate myself for that journey. Thanks a lot!
I wanna cry for excitement of how rich in info is your video LOL, Im an OTAS right now and I love learning how to relate Leisure Occupations to exercise to improve the experience.
I do a slight front-lever when hangboarding at my max and I'm worried this isn't the best form but Dan's opinion seems to be ok as long as it doesn't hurt and it's relatively comfy. I can hang way more weight in this position than I can straight down.
That seems to be a somewhat common approach and isn't something to really worry about IMO, though it might be beneficial to observe/feel out why you do it. Some people do it because it changes the way they grip the hangboard (shifting some weight to the back three fingers a bit more than a straight deadhang, depending on morphology and other factors). Other times it seems to just be a way to get around weakness/discomfort in the shoulders when doing very heavy deadhangs. Plenty of other things could be at play too, of course. -Emile
wow i've been thinking about making some training plan for climbing but there aren't many sources and doing such a plan without knowing anything is painful this video definitly will be helpful thanks!
Hamstring slider curls are pretty excellent. Mentioning this because if I’m backing off a bouldering problem, half the time it’s the hamstrings that I’m avoiding.
Thankyou very much for this thorough guide.The comprehensive description of each exercise, the muscle groups responsible and how to safely train them especially exertion vs injury pain. Will be rewatching many times in the future!
15:27 - I don't agree on the one-armed row stance (nor does google), I'd have my feet the other way around, or inside knee on the bench along with the hand, it's a much more secure stance especially with a heavy weight and it gives you much more space to drive your arm/elbow back. Main cue I use is pulling with the elbow and back towards your hip, or pocket (rather than up)
It’s works well both ways. In hindsight I should’ve demo’d both. There are merits to both, but a lot of people do find bracing with the leg on the same side as the rowing hand more intuitive (as is clearly your preference)
⚡Please support free content on this channel (and sometimes even get discounts!) by purchasing through out affiliate links: www.hoopersbeta.com/store
For coaching inquiries with Dan: danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com
⌛ TIMESTAMPS BELOW!
00:00:00 Intro and Overview
00:00:36 Basic Context & Programming Advice
// UPPER BODY //
00:02:06 // Upper Body: VERTICAL PULL (Anatomy)
00:03:01 1. Vertical Pull: Relevance
00:03:48 2. Vertical Pull: Exercise Recommendations
00:04:45 3. Vertical Pull: Exercise Demo
00:06:05 4. Vertical Pull: "Bad" Form
00:07:04 5. Vertical Pull: Progression
00:09:21 6. Vertical Pull: Rep Range
00:10:03 7. Vertical Pull: Final Note
00:10:30 // Upper Body: HORIZONTAL PULL (Anatomy)
00:11:18 1. Horizontal Pull: Relevance
00:13:47 2. Horizontal Pull: Exercise Recommendation
00:14:57 3. Horizontal Pull: Exercise Demo
00:17:31 4. Horizontal Pull: Progression
00:19:59 5. Horizontal Pull: Rep Range
00:21:30 // Upper Body: SHOULDER EXTERNAL ROTATION (Anatomy)
00:22:07 1. Shoulder External Rotation: Relevance
00:23:23 2. Shoulder External Rotation: Exercise Recommendation
00:24:36 3. Shoulder External Rotation: Exercise Demo
00:27:20 4. Shoulder External Rotation: Progression
00:30:25 Upper Body: COMPRESSION (Anatomy)
00:31:48 1. Compression: Relevance
00:32:35 2. Compression: Exercise Recommendation
00:33:47 // Upper Body: PUSH (Anatomy)
00:34:45 1. Push: Relevance
00:36:02 2. Push: Exercise Recommendation
00:37:39 3. Push: Exercise Demo
00:38:30 4. Push: Easier Variations
00:41:58 5. Push: Rep Range
00:42:23 // Upper Body: FINGERS, HANDS, WRISTS (Anatomy)
00:43:41 1. Fingers: Relevance
00:44:32 2. Fingers: General Recommendations
00:45:24 3. Fingers: Programming & Progression
00:47:48 4. Fingers: How to Get Started
00:49:14 5. Fingers: Hangboard Form
// LOWER BODY //
00:51:59 // Lower Body: PUSH (Anatomy)
00:52:57 1. Leg Push: Relevance
00:53:47 2. Leg Push: Exercise Demo
00:54:30 3. Leg Push: Progression
00:54:50 4. Leg Push: Final Note & Progression
00:55:43 // Lower Body: PULL(Anatomy)
00:56:41 1. Leg Pull: Relevance
00:57:21 2. Leg Pull: Exercise Demo
00:57:27 // Lower Body: TOE HOOK (Anatomy)
00:58:33 1. Toe Hook: Relevance & Recommendations
00:59:41 2. Toe Hook: Quick Technique Demo
01:00:25 // Lower Body: HEEL HOOK (Anatomy)
01:01:47 1. Heel Hook / Hamstrings: Relevance & Recommendations
01:03:22 2. Heel Hook / Hamstrings: Exercise Demo
01:05:52 // Lower Body: HIP ABDUCTION & ADDUCTION (Anatomy)
01:07:02 1. Hip Abduction/Adduction: Relevance
01:07:49 2. Hip Adductors: Exercise Demo
// CONCLUSION //
01:08:39 Dan Beall Coaching Info & Conclusion
will you make a video on grip strength and grip training (wrists, fingers, hand) i really lack in that field and dont know anything about it nor do i know how to train or what to train
types of grips too
This is outstanding, really. And the structure allows you to go to the section you need when you want it. Incredibile, really!
Thank you! Appreciate the comment/feedback :)
I was watching your video yesterday on Pete Whitakker! Awesome job!
Between this channel, lattice and yours I just dont feel like I can have better sources of education when it comes to climbing training and psychology :)
Cheers from Brazil!
@@manocaio123 wow never would have thought to be put side to side with Hooper and Lattice 😍
Thank you so much!
Holy cow, this is THE video for climb training. Phenomenal.
Yew! Thank you!
@@HoopersBeta In the principle of specificity, the closer an exercise resembles the actual targeted movement the more useful the exercise is. Is there a reason why most of the exercises in this video are off the wall; Wouldn't on-the-wall exercises would be more useful for climbing? Also, the focus of this video to me was physical/full body exercises, but is there anything you could elaborate on (or direct to a previous video) for training cycles (macrocycle, mesocycle, etc.) and power systems training (anaerobic, aerobic)? Thank you for your hard work HoopersBeta!
Exercises for the not super strong: (1) 14:57 Horizontal Row with Barbell (2) 23:24 Shoulder External Rotation with light bar/dumbbells (3) Bench and Overhead Press 36:24 (4) 51:14 Hang board (probably not fully weighted) in position shown (5) Pulling on Band with Toe 58:58 (6) Hamstring curls with Monkey Feet weight attachments 1:02:57 (7) Sliders holding on to countertop or chair 1:07:50. Thank you guys!! Great tips!
Source?
@@RM-xq7gf This video
The guy just dumped the whole climbing encyclopedia on us. I'm all for it.
This content is crazy. It’s gonna be so valuable for so many people over many years. Thanks for this!
As somebody coming from weight training to climbing who loves the science behind everything as well as the balance between "the most optimal" vs what is realistic and necessary, this video and this channel is absurd. It's incredible. Thank you.
Thank you for the kind words!
In the vertical pull demo preamble all I could hear is "scoopy da scapula" (5:39). Will do Dan, will do.
It sounds kind of obvious in retrospect, but I want to credit your videos for helping me to think differently about not just training for climbing, but time management in general for achieving goals. Your outlook about how you choose to allocate the limited time we have to devote to our hobbies and goals has guided me to be more mindful about the importance of being thoughtful and strategic when pursuing said goals.
This might just be the best video on youtube hahah
Thank you!
This is such a relieving guide, no other channel combines anatomy and practical exercises in such a seemless way. I will be including the techniques and concepts into my training!
Thank you for the kind comment! Hope this guide continues to help you for a long time!
Wow absolutely epic! Talk about threading everything together :) You guys are killing it, many thanks.
Thanks for the comment and you're welcome! Hope you enjoy it!
Thanks!
Thanks! :)
This is an invaluable resource you all have created. Thank you, I see myself coming back to this video many times throughout my training. ❤
That's exactly why we created this :) Thank you for the kind comment.
@@HoopersBeta Thank you so much for this video! I did the inverted rows on the rings for the first time yesterday and I feel like i've been hit by a train .. in a good way :P :D
Great video! Would love to see a follow-up about periodisation and long-term training plans 😊
Oh heck yeah! An hour long video from Hooper's Beta featuring Dan Beall. I'm waiting to put this on my TV when I get home :D
Yew! Grab some popcorn, or just any delicious snack I suppose ;)
I really appreciate the time and effort you've spent on this video. I feel like there is a probably a section or few for everyone that they can use that's specific to them.
Thank you! That was one of our goals :)
Started watching. Got really stoked. Saving for later when I can write notes and focus on this epic content. Thank you for sharing!!!
Nice! That sounds like a great plan. Happy to hear of the stoke :)
This Video is pure gold, thank you so much. 🧡
You're welcome! Thank you for the kind words. Stoked you found it to be useful!
I unironically love you all. Thank you.
Haha thank you for the clear comment ;) We all appreciate your kind words.
Woo! Thank you guys! You're the best!
Thanks so much!
This is the best RUclips video I've seen in a while!!! Amazing job very clearly and completely explained. Loved it!
Thanks! Great video 🔥🔥🔥
Thank you for the support!
Wow absolutely awesome! Thank you very much. Would you consider a similar video for mobility?
Thanks so much, it‘s massively helpful to get a general idea what to work on and what maybe be a waste of time and energy.
This is definitely one of the best climbing training videos i‘ve seen in years!
Thank you for sharing those kind words!
Hvala.
Very professional coach. He knows his stuff!
Thank you so much for this video! I'm so grateful for all this information. I also love how you can see Dan is thoughtful about every word he is saying, not making it too complex but also not too simple.
Glad you enjoyed it and thank you for the kind words + feedback!
A thousand Thanks ! Megagiga quality content. You are gold on internet
Thank you for the kind words! The entire team appreciates hearing that :)
Don’t know why I have not come across your channel before. So extensive info.
Better late than never 😅 welcome to the channel!
10/10 content. I am going to become a member to support this content
Dude, masterclass! Thank you for this, def the best climbing channel out there.
Thank you for the kind compliment! We definitely appreciate it.
LETS GOOOOO NEW HOOPER'S BETA VID
Hope you enjoy it! Grab a snack it's a long one ;)
Fantastic resource, thanks so much!
Thank you for the support!
this video is extremly comperhensive and impresive, thank you for the great content
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for the feedback.
Thank you for your effort on making this valuable video.
You’re most welcome! 🙏
Each video is better than the last. This is going to be a hard one to beat. Excellent job
Nice detail. +1 new subscriber from an old experienced climber
If you wanted to create the best climbing training video of all time, you did it!! Congratulations and thank you so much.
❤️❤️
Wow, HUGE video! This will make my evening (and plan hopefully). Thanks in advance!
I'm astonished at the quality of this video! it answers half of the questions I've ever had, and with great detail.
This video is gold. Thank-you and I love the channel.
Thank you! Please keep this content coming and let us know how we can support you.
Thank you for the support! It is appreciated :) Just keep smashing that like button and share with your friends when you can.
A great lower body exercise that I recommend for training hamstrings and a little bit of core stability are fitball bridges.
(I will now try do describe it to the best of my abilities).
You, of course, get a fitball lie down on the floor then place your feet on the ball and from there you bend your knees trying to keep your trunk/core in line with the legs.
It's great because you can then progress by only doing it one leg at a time, or just using one leg for the eccentric or concentric part and then using both legs for the other part.
Of you can do it with only one leg, try doing it keeping the other leg straight or bending it to reduce the intensity.
Usually do 3 sets of 10 on each side and go home with my legs on fire so I hope it's usefull for others :)
It was super generous of all of you to put this together. Thank you!!
Jason, thanks so much for this! I am so happy that I reached out to you in the past and cannot recommend enough your contents to my friend :)
Thank you for the kind comment and support, Jit! I hope you're doing well :)
LOVE THIS VIDEO. Thanks Dr. Hoops!
Thank you! We love this comment ;)
Thank you, guys, incredibly helpful! It will make my training so much more effective, I gonna forward it to all my climbing friends who are not subscribers already (and I truly don't understand why they are not...)
We appreciate the kind words and the support! Glad you're stoked on it!
A couple clarifying questions. At 3:40 and 7:30, Dan recommends moving to a one arm pull-up after you can achieve a 50-60% bodyweight pull-up. Is that for one singular rep, or one set of 5-6 reps? or more? Also, at 54:00 when Dan says you can grab a beam or use a band to assist single leg squats, does he just mean use your upper body to pull yourself up a little in order to assist yourself? Awesome video, thanks.
I’ve been trying to piece together this information from so many sources, this is invaluable, thank you!
Thanks
Thank you!
This is amazing, my life as a climber has been so much better because of you guys!
Thanks a lot for the effort put into this video.
Thank you for this awesome video. As always, you managed to keep it light with some humor in there, so it's fun to watch. Train, climb, send, make a video, repeat please!
Hah I like the modified version :) Thank you for the kind words!
Just perfect, best climbing video ever, nothing else to add.
Hah thank you! Much appreciated.
Fantastic information and it's incredible that you make it freely available. Thank you
Glad it was helpful! We love helping climbers.
@@HoopersBeta During the external rotation exercise, should the scapula be retracted and the bottom part of them squeezed together throughout the whole exercise?
You've blessed so many people with this video. Thank you very much! It is so well made and structured, packed with only relevant information. I'll be definiteley coming back to this. Thanks a lot!
Thanks for the kind words!
Can't thank you enough for this video, it is incredible! Your whole channel is so well done, such an amazing resource 👏
Just WOW! Thank you so much for that video. As a pretty new climber, THIS is exactly what I needed to boost my progress!
Awesome! We are all stoked to hear that! 💪
Really went all out for this video, much appreciated
epic! still stunned this channel doesn’t have way more subs
Slowly but surely ;) Thanks for the support!
As always, amazing video, 12 points from 10 😄 thanks for sharing!
yeah this is amazing, thanks so much for doing it like this against all the current grain trend stuff!
The video I waited for, thank you for providing us with such high quality training and health videos!
Thanks for this mega guide. You guys rock.
Thank you so much for putting this content out there for free for everyone. I'm sure it took a substantial amount of time to put this all together.
Great vid, covered a lot of ground. Great to get this higher level with a whole picture view,
Great video! Some really good concepts in there explained well. Nice work and thanks .
This is exactly what I've been looking for! Outstanding work, thanks a lot!
Amazing content man, forwarded to all my climbing mates this is so useful :)
Wow this is directly going into my saved list! Thank you for sharing this!
Glad it was helpful!
Incredible works guys. 🎉
Been scouring for this gem thank you sm
Great video! The most relevant exercises condensed and really well explained.
Thank you for the support and kind words!
I had to stop bouldering for nearly a year after getting a nasty open fracture on my left leg from a dyno-accident, but I am very excited to start bouldering again next month and your video helps me a lot to plan and motivate myself for that journey. Thanks a lot!
You can do this! Recoveries are difficult, but the most difficult journey is already done, so good job and good luck!
Saved and shared! Thank you so much for such great info!
I wanna cry for excitement of how rich in info is your video LOL, Im an OTAS right now and I love learning how to relate Leisure Occupations to exercise to improve the experience.
Ahh that's awesome, thanks for such a great comment!
LOVE YOUR VIDEOS!!!! +1 vote for a periodisation video
I do a slight front-lever when hangboarding at my max and I'm worried this isn't the best form but Dan's opinion seems to be ok as long as it doesn't hurt and it's relatively comfy. I can hang way more weight in this position than I can straight down.
That seems to be a somewhat common approach and isn't something to really worry about IMO, though it might be beneficial to observe/feel out why you do it. Some people do it because it changes the way they grip the hangboard (shifting some weight to the back three fingers a bit more than a straight deadhang, depending on morphology and other factors). Other times it seems to just be a way to get around weakness/discomfort in the shoulders when doing very heavy deadhangs. Plenty of other things could be at play too, of course.
-Emile
Can I give more than one thumbs up? 😄
Awesome summary and explanations!🤘
wow i've been thinking about making some training plan for climbing but there aren't many sources and doing such a plan without knowing anything is painful this video definitly will be helpful thanks!
You're welcome! Glad you'll find it useful for your training plan!
This is exactly what I've been looking for. Thank you so much
Glad we could help!
Thank you for making this video! Proves to me you guys are dedicated to helping people out over profit. This could have easily been 10 videos.
This is gold for training!
Thank you for the beautifully organized and articulated training program!
Our pleasure!
Thanks
Thank you for the support!
This is so useful! Even for more experienced climber so detailed and specific worth the hour
Glad you enjoyed it and thanks for the kind words/feedback!
Sweet baby Ondra, this is amazing
The most words ever said in a climbing video, ever.
I deeply appreciate the effort and care put into this video. Thank you so much!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks a lot, this was an excellent video! I will use to focus my training plan in what is going to drive better climbing! Thx!!❤
Hamstring slider curls are pretty excellent. Mentioning this because if I’m backing off a bouldering problem, half the time it’s the hamstrings that I’m avoiding.
Wow, really appreciate the effort. Vedy educative video.
Thanks for the kind words! Glad you enjoyed it.
Thankyou very much for this thorough guide.The comprehensive description of each exercise, the muscle groups responsible and how to safely train them especially exertion vs injury pain. Will be rewatching many times in the future!
wow what an incredible video, thank you
Glad you enjoyed it!
Yesss 1 hour video!
Glad you're excited for it!
I cant believe this is free
Thank you so much. This is invaluable!
Super informative and well presented! Love it
15:27 - I don't agree on the one-armed row stance (nor does google), I'd have my feet the other way around, or inside knee on the bench along with the hand, it's a much more secure stance especially with a heavy weight and it gives you much more space to drive your arm/elbow back. Main cue I use is pulling with the elbow and back towards your hip, or pocket (rather than up)
It’s works well both ways.
In hindsight I should’ve demo’d both.
There are merits to both, but a lot of people do find bracing with the leg on the same side as the rowing hand more intuitive (as is clearly your preference)
wow what an incredible video, thank you