Thank you so much. My bf is fixing my "beast" because of you. He wasn't going to tackle it and said to get another used one. But I love my beast so he went to the internet and found you! Belts are ordered. I figure beast we know, buying another would come with its own aging problems. BF has already replaced the carb, fuel filter, air filter, an in line gas shut of twisty thing, tires, new seat that goes a bit higher to support my lower back, and took off the grass cutting stuff cause I just trundle around the forest trails with beast and also pull a wagon to pick up tree stuff that falls on the trails. A great deal of fun, he says I'm always smiling when on the beast. haha.. He says however if the engine itself goes we'll talk (I don't think so). lol :) He picked up the beast at a garage sale for 300, plus the guy had a new second battery for it, 50 to bring it to my place--guy didnt have the key and was using a screwdriver, but bf has a lot of keys and one worked, and turns out the not start was cause of dried gas wherever gas dries. Long Live the Beast! -AND hilarious skit at the end!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Great video I have a Husky/ MTD and the only way to start the mower is practically stand on the clutch/ brake is there some kind of adjustment for that mower 1998 Husky 13hp
Taryl, you just saved me a ton of money again! My Toro LX426 my father-in-law recently gave me stopped pulling. I looked at it underneath, and it's almost the same drive train as this one. The top belt and bottom one were both chewed up (same belts from factory, and it's a 2008 model). I watch your videos as soon as you put them out, so I recognized the drive train as soon as I saw it. I came right back to this video to get my dinner. The only obvious differences underneath are mine has different steering that's sort of in the way, and the spring-loaded top pulley under the battry box has the spring on top. I had to take a nut off the top of the pulley to get the spring and a belt guide loose to get the top belt off. This video helped me get the new belts on with almost no frustration at all. Just a few hard to break-free bolts/nuts. You are the man, and I really appreciate the dinner you're forking out. Please keep it up.
I did mine today on my 1998 mtd yard machine it has the Briggs apposed 17.5 I really like your videos at this moment I have 7 riders, it's always good to watch these videos.
Wow!! I had to do this job and noticed I did not install the guide pin for the belt on the correct side of the belt. No wonder why the belt jammed and started to burn. Thanks a ton for such an in depth procedure!!!
Good video. When I replaced the belts on a similar mower, I took the variable pulley off and drilled a pathway for grease to lubricate the bearings. Mounted a grease zerk on top of the bolt.
Been looking for this for an hour cos it helped previously when I had to put Murray 11ic/36 on its side to change drive belt. This is the only vido on the interscreen showing ow to tip a riding mower. Took lots of photos but couldn't remember details: remove battery? Drain oil & petrol? So now my brake / clutch pedal doesn't spring back. Thanks for vid wic I shall now SAVE!
Thanks, Thats the belt I'm replacing now , Thats one belt I never change before, watched quite a few videos on how to do it, Funny how they can do the whole job in 10 mins. Thanks to your video I got it done,,,liked and subscribed.
Him showing you to bend the belt guides if the pulley is stuck on the engine is one way I had that problem so I instead removed the four engine mounting bolts and slid the motor back a few inch's and removed and replaced . After putting belt around pulley slide engine back into place and install bolts and tighten .
I have an old LOWES brand - the rear drive belt for the trans broke. I can't tell if I have the bew belt on right and or where this one spring goes. I looked many times at the diagram but I am still lost ---- I have the deck off - the new belt on and am still stumped. It's for a friend and I don't want to spend the money on his behalf. I usually can fix these without help but at 71 there are some that require HELP.
THANKS TARYL! I remember watching this video last year and hoping and praying I would never see this mower. Guess what showed up yesterday to be repaired. THE EXACT mower, except it looks more like a bucket of rust. It was made in 2000, and the owner is dumping money into it. The transmission is probably dry by now, but he wants new belts....fine...whatever. All labels are long gone, so it took a while to figure out the model: 13AK608G129 Many parts places have the correct parts, but manuals with that part # show a different mower deck/belt configuration. Frustrating, but common. Best luck to all!
can you adjust the drive belt tension? replaced mine on the same style of mower. it's a Lawn chief made by mtd.Looks very similar to the mower you showed. Now when put into forward or reverse the mower creeps and the brakes won't work due to the transmission spinning. I thought it might break in after an hour or two of use but it hasn't. Should I adjust the arm that goes to the pulley from the pedal? Or should no adjustment be required after placing it?
Gary I pulled that transaxle and replaced the axle bearings, and checked the clearances in all the gears. Put it back together and same sound. I have heard some of these were noisey from the factory. Some had issues with the case not being true . Rather that's true I don't know. I am out of ideas. Wonder what Teryls input would be.
Thanks Taryl, I have this exact MTD mower in Sydney Australia, can I compliment you by saying that I found this particular video and information in it very detailed, you didn’t miss a trick, as well as some components of the video quite entertaining. I find your videos all great.Ta. The problem I have is getting a hold of replacement parts, obviously they’re a lot more readily available in US than here, Again great honest information in your videos , kind regards.....
Thanks a bunch for this video! I almost bought a new variable speed pulley which is 184 bucks on Amazon. I didn't know the bearings could be serviced. I also noticed the previous owner didn't have the 3/8 bolt and sleeve guide reinstalled, so I have to pick one up. I keep eating belts, so I am hoping this resolves the issue.
Taryl, You are Da Man! My upper drive belt on my Cub Cadet was shot. I saw that this mower was similar to mine. I figured it was going to take hours to get to the upper belt and get it out. Now, here's the part where I got my dinner! You flipped up the seat, said take out the battery and just lift out the battery holder - - DingDingDing!! There was the upper belt right in front of my face!! About 15 minutes later I was back in the house watching football. You are the one and only Taryl Dactl!! Thanks
I have this exact mower and just replaced the drive belts. They are the correct belts, but my issue is that the belts are too loose. I adjusted the tensioner arm as much as possible (shortened it) and it is still too loose. It is routed correctly as well. Anything I’m missing that will help out? It only engages in gear if the pedal is almost floored.
I just changed the pulleys on the same mower the pulleys i got look just like the ones you installed, the second pulley I put on hangs down just a little lower then the first pulley is that the way its supposed to be, any info would help, thank you
I just picked up one of these mowers and will be replacing the drive Belts soon. This will be a big help!. I am having trouble with the Deck belt. All though The factory replacement once installed and the belt properly routed there is to much slack even under tension with the PTO engaged for the belt to turn the blades. There does not appear to be any tension adjustment points. Is there anything else I can check such as deck location or pulley size that might help with this? The OEM Belt is supposed to be 97 inches but when I put a rope through the system and measure it under tension it is only 89.25 inches. I feel like there is something big and obvious that I am missing.
If the designers did not get their NoGGins whacked up GOOD ENOUGH feel free to use me as an excuse for their next NoGGing. This was an awesome video... I will be heading for the brake video too. Wow, now I see how to run the belt through the maze of steel. Your funny videos take the work out of working... what more can a person ask for. Blessings to you and your crew.
Replaced all drive belts and deck belts now runs well. But did I move something because now the brakes works on neutral or engine not working. Brakes on the mower will not stop when the engine is running forward or reverse. Any suggestion to fix? thanks.
You've shown a lot of Videos on the MTD riding mowers but what about how to replace the mtd model 607 and 608 683-0450 Engagement Plate Assembly tensioner pulley??? Do ya really have to take the whole Mower apart to get to a Nut up by the Engine???
A really big thank you to Taryl for showing me so clearly how to do this absolute prick of a job. As a weekend mechanic I was very happy to see Taryl cut a hole in the footwell fender to access the other side of a pulley bolt nut - I was going spare trying to figure out how to get to it, and it gave me confidence to do the same thing. (I made a small improvement by peeling back the sticker first then cutting the hole, so I can cover the hole with the sticker lol). My setup was slightly different in that the rear variator pulley wasn't bolted to the axle but to the chassis behind the rear left wheel so i had to pull the left rear wheel off as well. It seriously is the most ridiculous method for changing a drive belt. I think my "Bug" Yardman by MTD (16HP Kohler single with 42" cutting deck and the cheap imitator hydro drive) is the EZ-Wurks 9000 POS, way worse than the 8000 POS (that Taryl refers to) to work on. Thanks for taking your complaint up with the people who design this stuff Taryl, I laughed my arse off but it hurt as well, because it's so true. Thanks to your channel I can do so much mower maintenance now, faster and better than before. Big tip of the hat to you & your team from this DIY'er Down Under. Keep up the great work!
Really appreciate the video tutorial! My mower is a Troy Bilt LTX-1842 and appears to be the same. I purchased it from my neighbor and all the belts were in the same shape as the ones you replaced. I have a question related to the lower drive belt. I replaced it the hard way by jacking it up and crawled under it. After putting it back together, the lower belt was as loose as yours. Is it supposed to be the loose? I haven't finished putting it together because I wasn't sure. The manual suggests an adjust but having trouble making the adjustment. I hope you get this and can let me know if it is normal. Thanks.
Taryl please help. I have a 604G model almost identical to this one. After replacing the lower drive belt now I have no tension at all for drive pedal. This is so out of my comfort zone any suggestions will be greatly appreciated
I replaced a drive belt on a Bolens (MTD?) and the 1-6 position speed control no longer works and is stuck in 1 or 2 slow speed. It's the correct belt but went on really tight. Any ideas on what happened? Tension spring was really tight and hard to get back on. I can't even tell what that speed lever does to make it work.
Do you have to replace both drive pullies at the same time? I only replaced the one that went bad on mine and now the belt is slipping sometimes. Someone told me its because I didn't do both of the belts at the same time, but if that's not why I don't want to waste 40 bucks on a new one. I also installed the little collar with the curve side the wrong way so I'll have to fix that.
Trayl I need your help........................I purchased a used MTD 20hp / 14 speed / Transmatic Garden Tractor and I just got finished rebuilding the entire thing, however, I have one issue.................There is NO belt that runs from the engine pulley to the drive pulley on the Mowing Deck and I have NO CLUE what size belt I need for it....CAN YOU HELP?? (the manuals I have do not give any belt sizes for the mower)
I know this video is not about deck height adjustment. But I am having a problem with the height of my mower deck. I need to raise it higher than the maximum 6 position. I have a Murray model 40507x8a. Can the height of the deck be raised up more than the normal height maximum range?
hey taryl ive got a huskee supreme 26 hp 54'' cut that I replaced the variable speed belt and the other just like on this video but now the new belt sounds like its slapping around real bad. is there an adjustment to tighten it up or is there something I may be missing. thank for your help.
How do you figure out what model and serial number if the Sticker under the seats is gone? There's an EPA sticker for California says meets 2000-2001. I have a model and serial number on the trans. I also have a serial number and model number on the motor. And it appears to be the same model you're working on?
Have a 2012 Craftsman model 247.2888529(LT 2000 with a briggs engine and 46 inch cut) with low hours that i've taken apart to repack the bearings underneath on . Took that assembly off that has the two pulleys on it that tensions the lower drive belt (the one that runs from the engine small pulley all the way back to the lower variable speed pulley after running through the tensioner you speak of that has the hole in the top of the platform drilled that the "geniuses at MTD" placed in the later models). Well. with the assembley off I can see the hole up in the platform where the bolt of the assembly goes through that looks to be the size necessary for the bolt going through the assembly; but then to the right of it as you would set in the seat there is a SECOND bigger hole right next to it that was obviously machined there from the factory. The tiny amount of metal between the two holes has worn through where the two holes are now connected. Parts diagram of the machine shows only one hole there. Since you also have a second thinner piece of metal above the piece that these holes were machined into (the thin piece that makes up your platform and where all the safety decals are stuck on to and makes it difficult to work on the piece of metal that the holes are drilled through underneath.....guess I'll need to take a cut off grinder and remove a portion of that thin platform so I can get to the two drilled holes and maybe weld a bolt in place permanently or even weld the big thin flat washer in place that dropped down when I removed the assembly. When you work that assembly from side to side with your foot on the variable speed pedal.....guess it wore that little hole oblong to where it joined the other hole even through the bolt was snug it wasn't real tight and the assembly musta been working left to right all the time. ANY IDEAS WHAT THAT SECOND DRILLED HOLE WAS FOR ANYONE?
I wish I watched this prior to replacing all my belts.I figured out how to put it on its side to get access,but while reinstalling them I lost that damn belt keeper at 27:08,just like Taryl.Its in the grass I think.I guess I'll order one,and may as well order all the idlers as well. All the parts are adding up,but the mower was only $100.
hay Tarryl I got some major questions about the springs in thes MTD tractors got a problem with missing springs and would like to know how they are to go back in and if how arevthey to come out so tuff finding the right way to doing things with out a few bruises now that I have some idea of how belts are put in and or taken out any sources of information on the springs thing that you can share about this or what web sites I may find some diagrams is and will be greatly appreciated thank you in advance
You can find the manuals for a lot of MTD's mowers on the MTD website. Mines a Yard Machines from 2005, and I found the owners manual, engine manual, and tractor manual on their website. Shows a full breakdown of everything, including all nuts, bolts, belts, springs... all of it... even a break down of the transaxle.
Taryl, I have a similar MTD Yard Machines with this motor and drive system with a 46" deck. Should my deck already be sitting on the ground after only putting the height selector down from 5 to 4? I would think it shouldn't be on the ground until in position 1. If mine is not correct what could I look at to fix this?
Great job asl always. Appreciate leaving in the things that go wrong, those are the things that us weekend mechanics really learn from. Those steril everything goes perfectly videos are completely not "real world" .
I have a craftsman T1600 19 HP variation speed model 247-203741, can you provide a picture of the belt diagram for the lower drive belt- bot sure how to route the belt thru the pulleys
Thanks Taryl! This was a bloody nightmare of a job but your video was awesome and helped turn my turd of a mower into an awesome machine. My place has lots of hills so with the main belt chewed up it didn't stop the mower. Now she stops on a dime. And yeah it's a poor man's hydro but I got it for a killer price, spent a couple days under it, did everything in your video plus leveled the deck, sharpened/balanced the blades, and now she runs, cuts and bags like a champ. Looks like shit but works great 👍
And now I need to know.... At 16:25 you show the sleeve/bushing/spacer/spanner that fits inside the MTD 956-0048 variator that the needle bearings (MTD 741-0404) ride on. (That pipe looking thing). Wishful thinking, but maybe if someone found it, I really need that number...
Super funny, and I'm southern country. You're a genius with the whole idea of repair tutorials. People get frustrated on repairs and see your videos and laugh like hell. Then go fix it. I have probably a hundred different mower fixes under my belt, lol. Wrastling a bass-turd mtd today. Good beer break.. Thanks. Gonna subscribe too.
You can add most car manufactures to the list of stupid, needless and unnecessary design systems. Their sole purpose is to augment repeated sells of cheaply made propitiatory parts to keep their company and dealers afloat.
Tarryl I need some advice I have a 2003 MTD Yard Machines Rider. It's not hydrostatic but has the automatic drive with the F N R lever and you push on the Pedal to make it go and control your speed. Is it normal for these Transaxles to have a whine to them under load like going up a hill but the whine goes away when the load decreases. Wanting to fix this annoying sound.
Shaws Garage the transmissions are commonly known to go out in these model mowers over time. Unfortunately not worth fixing and it's hard to find used ones because it's a common part people are looking for! Now there's Yur dinner!!
i put a new drive belt on my mtd,, but now when you have to push down hard the last three inches or so,,,to go faster ,,, my leg gets tired,,,,,any ideas,,,thanks
Working on a huskee, (same tractor) for a friend. Need to replace these drive belts. The tractor wants to creep forward or reverse even when not pushing the "go" pedal. Any ideas why? I can't believe this is normal. I've got the brake caliper/pins moving freely but it will overpower the brake when in forward or reverse.
Well I've answered my own question and thought I'd post the resolution for anyone interested. After watching this video and doing the job (not that bad to do, thanks to Taryl). I found that the drive belt had both sides routed around the guide pin (the 3/8 bolt head with the spacer.) This created a slight bit of extra tension that shouldn't be there. Also my variable speed sheeve pulley was pretty gummed up and not sliding well. Cleaned that up and lubricated it well and cleaned a little rust off the pulley surfaces. Good to go now.
I see a problem at 29:12. Only the top part of that belt should be inside the belt guide. Make sure the bottom part of that belt is on the outside of that guide before engaging the go pedal or it will rub the belt guide.
I believe ALL of us "Grass Rats" saw the error. Taryl Dactal must have corrected the problem, otherwise we would seen the "magic smoke" as soon as he hit the GO pedal! LOL
Question for you, I have a Troy Bilt Bronco auto bought 2018 had to replace drive belt and once done I tested it put it in forward and it just took off put it into neutral and it still wanted to go. What's your feedback on something like this?
I got one just s little older, I understand you have to use OEM belts because the ones you get from Lowes or Home Depot are a different thickness. That will make a difference.
Could you please shoot me part numbers on the 2 nylon or plastic washers on the variator? I'm doing one now. Bearings are shot and all. Plastic its shot or just gone. Based on my research I've only found the whole variator and not just parts for it. Always learn and love what you do guys.
What would cause the pedal to be hard to push...all the pulleys move under the mower and has all new belts. Mower drives just hard to push leg hurts after two passes of the yard. Please help
Install the "optional" CRUISE CONTROL! Don't laugh, I have it (standard equipment) on my 2005 Yardman 13AG601h729, although I have never had the need to use it!
I have a Sears riding lawn mower 42 "19.5 Hp. 944.600192 I'm looking for a belt that comes from the engine pulley to a pulley and tensioner to drive the snow blower attachment that goes on the front of the tractor . the drive belt is up higher on other pulley. I cant find the part number any where that I looked. do you have any sugestions .
That long run of belt is really loose. I am wrapping up on a similar model right now the Huskee 808k. Should I be concerned with the tension? I definitely bought the MTD OEM belt. Mine has an electric clutch. 2004 model. I appreciate the video very much. But if you have any chance to offer any final advice I would definitely take it!
Another great video. So Taryl who makes a riding mower now days that is worth the money and that will last? They all seem to be basically the same machine just with different brand names.
Seems like it could b a sort of torque converter found on mini-bikes an Go-Karts. One pulley opens up or closes so it could be an 8 inch pulley or a 4 inch pulley, changing the speed and torque.
I just changed my craftsman drive belt and now its hard to shift in F and R and as soon as u do it starts to go even tho the clutch is still pressed in. Any idea whats wrong?
Hey Taryl, I have a troy-built lawn tractor with that varible speed pulley. My issue with it is, you put in to low gear, start driving then after a bit it picks up speed and starts going too fast for the gear it is in. What causes this? Im sure you ran into this issue somewhere along the way...
Just be glad that POF mower is moving on it's own. It is very embarrassing to have to push a RIDING mower back to the garage. Though it is entertaining for the neighbors!
If you own a 2005 MTD "Yardman" (model 13AG601h729), there a few changes starting with the "vari-speed" pulley. The pulley is a different design with ROLLER BEARINGS (p/n 941-0600) that ride in a "bearing cup" instead of the needle bearings. Also, the third pulley on the tension arm is NOT the same as the other 2. The p/n for that pulley is 756-04209. The belt numbers for THIS machine are: 954-0467A and 941-0468A, respectively! Otherwise, the procedure is the same!
On a second note, I would have never rolled the dice on MTD turd except it had a Briggs opposed twin. Bought it for the engine, im a gluten for punishment evidently, after engine ran so good I hated to trash the unit. I'm second guessing that. I've owned several older Briggs twins and like em well. Usually, and you might agree is starter issues foremost. They need power to spin over. Second is carb and needing near full choke to get going. I watched another video of yours where you walked around the yard talking about a good dozen mowers and couldn't agree more! Don't make it look too easy. Lol.
I purchased this same rider, same color, except mine has a 21HP Briggs twin, in 2005 for $1099+tx at Home Depot. In seventeen years of ownership, I have had ZERO PROBLEMS with this mower, have replaced the PTO belt 5 times, the drive belts once. I have to admit that I am quite anal about the maintenance of this machine. I use FULL SYN oil and grease the zerks many times during the season. I use compressed air to clean off the unit after EVERY mowing and never leave it outside. I do not care for the cheaper deck design (compared to JD) for evacuating the grass clippings and the plastic front wheel bushings. But, compared to the cheapest JD mower at $2500 (in 2005), I would buy another one when this one wears out, I believe this machine will OUTLAST ME (pushin' 80). What turns these mowers into "turds" is obtuse owners who don't give a shyte (German) and treat them as disposables with hardly any maintenance and leaving them outdoors to ROT! Btw, MTD has a "better idea" by putting the battery under the seat instead of the "engine compartment" (like most others) where engine heat will help kill the battery, heat is the NUMBER ONE killer of batteries!
Hey Taryl would you to a how too video on rebuilding a MTD non hydro transaxle. Like your videos! I have learned a lot about fixing small engines and mowers from you.
Anyone know where you can get a new bolt and sleeve from. Pulled mine apart and the bearings are gone and sleeve is rusted and stuck to bolt, plus has flat sides worn onto it. Don't want to spend $140 on a whole new pulley setup.
Harold I had the same problem I cut what u call the sleeve in haft and turned the bad end's together and welded it back together giving me 2 good end's for the new bearing to run on .I was not able to find that part
Thank you so much. My bf is fixing my "beast" because of you. He wasn't going to tackle it and said to get another used one. But I love my beast so he went to the internet and found you! Belts are ordered. I figure beast we know, buying another would come with its own aging problems. BF has already replaced the carb, fuel filter, air filter, an in line gas shut of twisty thing, tires, new seat that goes a bit higher to support my lower back, and took off the grass cutting stuff cause I just trundle around the forest trails with beast and also pull a wagon to pick up tree stuff that falls on the trails. A great deal of fun, he says I'm always smiling when on the beast. haha.. He says however if the engine itself goes we'll talk (I don't think so). lol :) He picked up the beast at a garage sale for 300, plus the guy had a new second battery for it, 50 to bring it to my place--guy didnt have the key and was using a screwdriver, but bf has a lot of keys and one worked, and turns out the not start was cause of dried gas wherever gas dries. Long Live the Beast! -AND hilarious skit at the end!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Loved the vid and thank you all, Taryl and company. I and my wife are going on a road trip and visit you.
Great video I have a Husky/ MTD and the only way to start the mower is practically stand on the clutch/ brake is there some kind of adjustment for that mower 1998 Husky 13hp
Taryl, you just saved me a ton of money again! My Toro LX426 my father-in-law recently gave me stopped pulling. I looked at it underneath, and it's almost the same drive train as this one. The top belt and bottom one were both chewed up (same belts from factory, and it's a 2008 model). I watch your videos as soon as you put them out, so I recognized the drive train as soon as I saw it. I came right back to this video to get my dinner.
The only obvious differences underneath are mine has different steering that's sort of in the way, and the spring-loaded top pulley under the battry box has the spring on top. I had to take a nut off the top of the pulley to get the spring and a belt guide loose to get the top belt off.
This video helped me get the new belts on with almost no frustration at all. Just a few hard to break-free bolts/nuts. You are the man, and I really appreciate the dinner you're forking out. Please keep it up.
engineer2001 Thank you! Glad we could help and we'll keep on keepin on
I did mine today on my 1998 mtd yard machine it has the Briggs apposed 17.5 I really like your videos at this moment I have 7 riders, it's always good to watch these videos.
Took me three days to figure it out.I didn't cut a hole,I removed the whole fender,seat,and pedals
Thanks for the laughs. And the detailed instructions appreciated too
Found the house video! Great to see where it started. Taryl history!!
Love that part were you tell the guy you will be the last thing he sees,that is so funny,great job
Wow!! I had to do this job and noticed I did not install the guide pin for the belt on the correct side of the belt. No wonder why the belt jammed and started to burn. Thanks a ton for such an in depth procedure!!!
Good video. When I replaced the belts on a similar mower, I took the variable pulley off and drilled a pathway for grease to lubricate the bearings. Mounted a grease zerk on top of the bolt.
Absolutely hilarious…a master mechanic no doubt about thst
Been looking for this for an hour cos it helped previously when I had to put Murray 11ic/36 on its side to change drive belt. This is the only vido on the interscreen showing ow to tip a riding mower. Took lots of photos but couldn't remember details: remove battery? Drain oil & petrol?
So now my brake / clutch pedal doesn't spring back.
Thanks for vid wic I shall now SAVE!
Thanks, Thats the belt I'm replacing now , Thats one belt I never change before, watched quite a few videos on how to do it, Funny how they can do the whole job in 10 mins. Thanks to your video I got it done,,,liked and subscribed.
That "10 minute" replacement sounds like a "Scotty Kilmer" job. He can change a timing belt in his 1994 Ceelica in 15min ! LOL
Him showing you to bend the belt guides if the pulley is stuck on the engine is one way I had that problem so I instead removed the four engine mounting bolts and slid the motor back a few inch's and removed and replaced . After putting belt around pulley slide engine back into place and install bolts and tighten .
I have an old LOWES brand - the rear drive belt for the trans broke. I can't tell if I have the bew belt on right and or where this one spring goes. I looked many times at the diagram but I am still lost ---- I have the deck off - the new belt on and am still stumped. It's for a friend and I don't want to spend the money on his behalf. I usually can fix these without help but at 71 there are some that require HELP.
THANKS TARYL!
I remember watching this video last year and hoping and praying I would never see this mower.
Guess what showed up yesterday to be repaired. THE EXACT mower, except it looks more
like a bucket of rust.
It was made in 2000, and the owner is dumping money into it.
The transmission is probably dry by now, but he wants new belts....fine...whatever.
All labels are long gone, so it took a while to figure out the model: 13AK608G129
Many parts places have the correct parts, but manuals with that part # show a different
mower deck/belt configuration. Frustrating, but common.
Best luck to all!
Thanks for whooping ass at the end. Wish I could do that at times. Enjoy ur videos. Very informative n funny at the same time. Thank you.
can you adjust the drive belt tension? replaced mine on the same style of mower. it's a Lawn chief made by mtd.Looks very similar to the mower you showed. Now when put into forward or reverse the mower creeps and the brakes won't work due to the transmission spinning. I thought it might break in after an hour or two of use but it hasn't. Should I adjust the arm that goes to the pulley from the pedal? Or should no adjustment be required after placing it?
Gary I pulled that transaxle and replaced the axle bearings, and checked the clearances in all the gears. Put it back together and same sound. I have heard some of these were noisey from the factory. Some had issues with the case not being true . Rather that's true I don't know. I am out of ideas. Wonder what Teryls input would be.
good chance the sound is being made by a bad bearings in one or more of the pulley's and it's a good chance it's the variably speed pulley
Thanks Taryl, I have this exact MTD mower in Sydney Australia, can I compliment you by saying that I found this particular video and information in it very detailed, you didn’t miss a trick, as well as some components of the video quite entertaining.
I find your videos all great.Ta. The problem I have is getting a hold of replacement parts, obviously they’re a lot more readily available in US than here, Again great honest information in your videos , kind regards.....
Thanks a bunch for this video! I almost bought a new variable speed pulley which is 184 bucks on Amazon. I didn't know the bearings could be serviced. I also noticed the previous owner didn't have the 3/8 bolt and sleeve guide reinstalled, so I have to pick one up. I keep eating belts, so I am hoping this resolves the issue.
Taryl, You are Da Man! My upper drive belt on my Cub Cadet was shot. I saw that this mower was similar to mine. I figured it was going to take hours to get to the upper belt and get it out. Now, here's the part where I got my dinner! You flipped up the seat, said take out the battery and just lift out the battery holder - - DingDingDing!! There was the upper belt right in front of my face!! About 15 minutes later I was back in the house watching football. You are the one and only Taryl Dactl!! Thanks
Best mower repair channel on the innerweb... also the weirdest. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
I have this exact mower and just replaced the drive belts. They are the correct belts, but my issue is that the belts are too loose. I adjusted the tensioner arm as much as possible (shortened it) and it is still too loose. It is routed correctly as well. Anything I’m missing that will help out? It only engages in gear if the pedal is almost floored.
I just changed the pulleys on the same mower the pulleys i got look just like the ones you installed, the second pulley I put on hangs down just a little lower then the first pulley is that the way its supposed to be, any info would help, thank you
I just picked up one of these mowers and will be replacing the drive Belts soon. This will be a big help!. I am having trouble with the Deck belt. All though The factory replacement once installed and the belt properly routed there is to much slack even under tension with the PTO engaged for the belt to turn the blades. There does not appear to be any tension adjustment points. Is there anything else I can check such as deck location or pulley size that might help with this? The OEM Belt is supposed to be 97 inches but when I put a rope through the system and measure it under tension it is only 89.25 inches. I feel like there is something big and obvious that I am missing.
If the designers did not get their NoGGins whacked up GOOD ENOUGH feel free to use me as an excuse for their next NoGGing. This was an awesome video... I will be heading for the brake video too. Wow, now I see how to run the belt through the maze of steel. Your funny videos take the work out of working... what more can a person ask for. Blessings to you and your crew.
Replaced all drive belts and deck belts now runs well. But did I move something because now the brakes works on neutral or engine not working. Brakes on the mower will not stop when the engine is running forward or reverse. Any suggestion to fix? thanks.
You've shown a lot of Videos on the MTD riding mowers but what about how to replace the mtd model 607 and 608 683-0450 Engagement Plate Assembly tensioner pulley??? Do ya really have to take the whole Mower apart to get to a Nut up by the Engine???
This is a 608... What do you mean?
A really big thank you to Taryl for showing me so clearly how to do this absolute prick of a job. As a weekend mechanic I was very happy to see Taryl cut a hole in the footwell fender to access the other side of a pulley bolt nut - I was going spare trying to figure out how to get to it, and it gave me confidence to do the same thing. (I made a small improvement by peeling back the sticker first then cutting the hole, so I can cover the hole with the sticker lol).
My setup was slightly different in that the rear variator pulley wasn't bolted to the axle but to the chassis behind the rear left wheel so i had to pull the left rear wheel off as well.
It seriously is the most ridiculous method for changing a drive belt.
I think my "Bug" Yardman by MTD (16HP Kohler single with 42" cutting deck and the cheap imitator hydro drive) is the EZ-Wurks 9000 POS, way worse than the 8000 POS (that Taryl refers to) to work on.
Thanks for taking your complaint up with the people who design this stuff Taryl, I laughed my arse off but it hurt as well, because it's so true.
Thanks to your channel I can do so much mower maintenance now, faster and better than before.
Big tip of the hat to you & your team from this DIY'er Down Under.
Keep up the great work!
These intros/ends are hilarious and well made. Keep em coming!
Really appreciate the video tutorial! My mower is a Troy Bilt LTX-1842 and appears to be the same. I purchased it from my neighbor and all the belts were in the same shape as the ones you replaced. I have a question related to the lower drive belt. I replaced it the hard way by jacking it up and crawled under it. After putting it back together, the lower belt was as loose as yours. Is it supposed to be the loose? I haven't finished putting it together because I wasn't sure. The manual suggests an adjust but having trouble making the adjustment. I hope you get this and can let me know if it is normal. Thanks.
Taryl please help. I have a 604G model almost identical to this one. After replacing the lower drive belt now I have no tension at all for drive pedal. This is so out of my comfort zone any suggestions will be greatly appreciated
Recheck the belt P/N and the routing!
Have a Murry mdl 425303x92b. having trouble with drive belt routing. can u help?
Anyway you can tell me the part number for the spring that’s hooked to the deck engagement lever.
I replaced a drive belt on a Bolens (MTD?) and the 1-6 position speed control no longer works and is stuck in 1 or 2 slow speed. It's the correct belt but went on really tight. Any ideas on what happened? Tension spring was really tight and hard to get back on. I can't even tell what that speed lever does to make it work.
Mr taryl, I have a question, if I have a mtd 618-0163b transmission, is there a generic Tran can fit for replacement? Thanks
Do you have to replace both drive pullies at the same time? I only replaced the one that went bad on mine and now the belt is slipping sometimes. Someone told me its because I didn't do both of the belts at the same time, but if that's not why I don't want to waste 40 bucks on a new one. I also installed the little collar with the curve side the wrong way so I'll have to fix that.
27:05 I laughed way too hard at this. Every. Single. Time.
Trayl I need your help........................I purchased a used MTD 20hp / 14 speed / Transmatic Garden Tractor and I just got finished rebuilding the entire thing, however, I have one issue.................There is NO belt that runs from the engine pulley to the drive pulley on the Mowing Deck and I have NO CLUE what size belt I need for it....CAN YOU HELP?? (the manuals I have do not give any belt sizes for the mower)
I know this video is not about deck height adjustment. But I am having a problem with the height of my mower deck. I need to raise it higher than the maximum 6 position. I have a Murray model 40507x8a. Can the height of the deck be raised up more than the normal height maximum range?
hey taryl ive got a huskee supreme 26 hp 54'' cut that I replaced the variable speed belt and the other just like on this video but now the new belt sounds like its slapping around real bad. is there an adjustment to tighten it up or is there something I may be missing. thank for your help.
Ur episodes are getting even better!
How do you figure out what model and serial number if the Sticker under the seats is gone? There's an EPA sticker for California says meets 2000-2001. I have a model and serial number on the trans. I also have a serial number and model number on the motor. And it appears to be the same model you're working on?
Have a 2012 Craftsman model 247.2888529(LT 2000 with a briggs engine and 46 inch cut) with low hours that i've taken apart to repack the bearings underneath on . Took that assembly off that has the two pulleys on it that tensions the lower drive belt (the one that runs from the engine small pulley all the way back to the lower variable speed pulley after running through the tensioner you speak of that has the hole in the top of the platform drilled that the "geniuses at MTD" placed in the later models). Well. with the assembley off I can see the hole up in the platform where the bolt of the assembly goes through that looks to be the size necessary for the bolt going through the assembly; but then to the right of it as you would set in the seat there is a SECOND bigger hole right next to it that was obviously machined there from the factory. The tiny amount of metal between the two holes has worn through where the two holes are now connected. Parts diagram of the machine shows only one hole there. Since you also have a second thinner piece of metal above the piece that these holes were machined into (the thin piece that makes up your platform and where all the safety decals are stuck on to and makes it difficult to work on the piece of metal that the holes are drilled through underneath.....guess I'll need to take a cut off grinder and remove a portion of that thin platform so I can get to the two drilled holes and maybe weld a bolt in place permanently or even weld the big thin flat washer in place that dropped down when I removed the assembly. When you work that assembly from side to side with your foot on the variable speed pedal.....guess it wore that little hole oblong to where it joined the other hole even through the bolt was snug it wasn't real tight and the assembly musta been working left to right all the time. ANY IDEAS WHAT THAT SECOND DRILLED HOLE WAS FOR ANYONE?
I wish I watched this prior to replacing all my belts.I figured out how to put it on its side to get access,but while reinstalling them I lost that damn belt keeper at 27:08,just like Taryl.Its in the grass I think.I guess I'll order one,and may as well order all the idlers as well.
All the parts are adding up,but the mower was only $100.
hey Darryl I don't have the part number to my mower but that's spacer that goes in the variable speed pulley I need a part number can you help me out
hay Tarryl I got some major questions about the springs in thes MTD tractors got a problem with missing springs and would like to know how they are to go back in and if how arevthey to come out so tuff finding the right way to doing things with out a few bruises now that I have some idea of how belts are put in and or taken out
any sources of information on the springs thing that you can share about this or what web sites I may find some diagrams is and will be greatly appreciated
thank you in advance
You can find the manuals for a lot of MTD's mowers on the MTD website.
Mines a Yard Machines from 2005, and I found the owners manual, engine manual, and tractor manual on their website.
Shows a full breakdown of everything, including all nuts, bolts, belts, springs... all of it... even a break down of the transaxle.
Open the hood and poof there’s a Briggs opposed twin. how nice is that ?
hey taryl, is the disengagement rod a way to adjust the tension on the deck belt on a yard man 136x694g401
Is the belt guide on lx460 Toro in the same place
Taryl, I have a similar MTD Yard Machines with this motor and drive system with a 46" deck. Should my deck already be sitting on the ground after only putting the height selector down from 5 to 4? I would think it shouldn't be on the ground until in position 1. If mine is not correct what could I look at to fix this?
How And where to find engine no. on troy-bilt bronco 42 inch cot manufactured 2017 18.5 hp by briggs&Straton
he hee just turn it up side down to work on it 🤣 Good Job 👍
Great job asl always. Appreciate leaving in the things that go wrong, those are the things that us weekend mechanics really learn from. Those steril everything goes perfectly videos are completely not "real world" .
Sounds like a "hate" on Scotty Kilmer! LOL
I have a craftsman T1600 19 HP variation speed model 247-203741, can you provide a picture of the belt diagram for the lower drive belt- bot sure how to route the belt thru the pulleys
Thanks Taryl! This was a bloody nightmare of a job but your video was awesome and helped turn my turd of a mower into an awesome machine. My place has lots of hills so with the main belt chewed up it didn't stop the mower. Now she stops on a dime. And yeah it's a poor man's hydro but I got it for a killer price, spent a couple days under it, did everything in your video plus leveled the deck, sharpened/balanced the blades, and now she runs, cuts and bags like a champ. Looks like shit but works great 👍
And now I need to know....
At 16:25 you show the sleeve/bushing/spacer/spanner that fits inside the MTD 956-0048 variator that the needle bearings (MTD 741-0404) ride on. (That pipe looking thing).
Wishful thinking, but maybe if someone found it, I really need that number...
Those needle bearings ride on a "10-7281 Shaft." Who has one of those?
No, that's not it, either....
I found it easier to loosen the bolts on the engine and slide it back to clear the tabs. Only 4 bolts and you don’t bend tabs or pulleys !!!!
I absolutly love ur videos Taryl !!!! they help me alot thanks alot THERES YOUR DINNER!
TheSiamese Rat ur welcome!! New video every Sunday at 9 am central!
Super funny, and I'm southern country. You're a genius with the whole idea of repair tutorials. People get frustrated on repairs and see your videos and laugh like hell. Then go fix it. I have probably a hundred different mower fixes under my belt, lol. Wrastling a bass-turd mtd today. Good beer break.. Thanks. Gonna subscribe too.
You can add most car manufactures to the list of stupid, needless and unnecessary design systems. Their sole purpose is to augment repeated sells of cheaply made propitiatory parts to keep their company and dealers afloat.
Also what was wrong with the middle 2 pullies you replaced? They were spinning freely and weren't groved? Just wondering.
Noisy bearings will go out sooner than later.
@@dabone3248 CORRECT!
Tarryl I need some advice I have a 2003 MTD Yard Machines Rider. It's not hydrostatic but has the automatic drive with the F N R lever and you push on the Pedal to make it go and control your speed.
Is it normal for these Transaxles to have a whine to them under load like going up a hill but the whine goes away when the load decreases. Wanting to fix this annoying sound.
Shaws Garage I have the same tractor, mine does the same thing, I also would like to know if I can fix this.
Shaws Garage the transmissions are commonly known to go out in these model mowers over time. Unfortunately not worth fixing and it's hard to find used ones because it's a common part people are looking for! Now there's Yur dinner!!
@@TarylFixesAll Would putting some sawdust in the tranny help quiet it down!
Always funny and your videos are very descriptive and how to fix things nice job
Taryl poked em in the eyes! hahaha
i put a new drive belt on my mtd,, but now when you have to push down hard the last three inches or so,,,to go faster ,,, my leg gets tired,,,,,any ideas,,,thanks
Another classic! Funny and educational!
Working on a huskee, (same tractor) for a friend. Need to replace these drive belts. The tractor wants to creep forward or reverse even when not pushing the "go" pedal. Any ideas why? I can't believe this is normal. I've got the brake caliper/pins moving freely but it will overpower the brake when in forward or reverse.
Well I've answered my own question and thought I'd post the resolution for anyone interested. After watching this video and doing the job (not that bad to do, thanks to Taryl). I found that the drive belt had both sides routed around the guide pin (the 3/8 bolt head with the spacer.) This created a slight bit of extra tension that shouldn't be there. Also my variable speed sheeve pulley was pretty gummed up and not sliding well. Cleaned that up and lubricated it well and cleaned a little rust off the pulley surfaces. Good to go now.
I see a problem at 29:12. Only the top part of that belt should be inside the belt guide. Make sure the bottom part of that belt is on the outside of that guide before engaging the go pedal or it will rub the belt guide.
I believe ALL of us "Grass Rats" saw the error. Taryl Dactal must have corrected the problem, otherwise we would seen the "magic smoke" as soon as he hit the GO pedal! LOL
Is it a good idea to put belt dressing on mower drive and deck belts
The belts HAVE to slip during the initial "shock load" otherwise they wont last!
Question for you, I have a Troy Bilt Bronco auto bought 2018 had to replace drive belt and once done I tested it put it in forward and it just took off put it into neutral and it still wanted to go. What's your feedback on something like this?
I got one just s little older, I understand you have to use OEM belts because the ones you get from Lowes or Home Depot are a different thickness. That will make a difference.
Ok thank you for the info
Could you please shoot me part numbers on the 2 nylon or plastic washers on the variator? I'm doing one now. Bearings are shot and all. Plastic its shot or just gone. Based on my research I've only found the whole variator and not just parts for it. Always learn and love what you do guys.
If you figured out those plastic washers let me know i think i need them Thanks
@@Gods-Elect i simply found them at the hardware store. Has to be a smaller place like ace or Westlake. Home Depot or lowes won't have them.
@@xanderthegamer9746 Thanks for quick responds i'll check ace tomorrow looks like they need to be little bigger than the bolt
@@Gods-Elect Sorry my dad watched this video on my account
@@xanderthegamer9746 np
Great video,you guys do the best how to videos,great camera work and editing thanks for posting,and thanks for the laughs
Designed to fail. Great video! Nice house Taryl!
You could put a rubber plug in your access hole to flash it up.
What would cause the pedal to be hard to push...all the pulleys move under the mower and has all new belts. Mower drives just hard to push leg hurts after two passes of the yard. Please help
Install the "optional" CRUISE CONTROL! Don't laugh, I have it (standard equipment) on my 2005 Yardman 13AG601h729, although I have never had the need to use it!
I have a Sears riding lawn mower 42 "19.5 Hp. 944.600192 I'm looking for a belt that comes from the engine pulley to a pulley and tensioner to drive the snow blower attachment that goes on the front of the tractor . the drive belt is up higher on other pulley. I cant find the part number any where that I looked. do you have any sugestions .
That long run of belt is really loose. I am wrapping up on a similar model right now the Huskee 808k. Should I be concerned with the tension? I definitely bought the MTD OEM belt. Mine has an electric clutch. 2004 model. I appreciate the video very much. But if you have any chance to offer any final advice I would definitely take it!
Another great video. So Taryl who makes a riding mower now days that is worth the money and that will last? They all seem to be basically the same machine just with different brand names.
Probably one that is made ANYWHERE but the USA!
This seems *very* similar (Perhaps identical) to my TroyBilt Garden Way. I read there were but outs and acquisitions every which way...
Tarly .... legend!
Seems like it could b a sort of torque converter found on mini-bikes an Go-Karts.
One pulley opens up or closes so it could be an 8 inch pulley or a 4 inch pulley,
changing the speed and torque.
Will the head of a 15 horse ohv briggs fit and work on a 14.5 briggs?
I just changed my craftsman drive belt and now its hard to shift in F and R and as soon as u do it starts to go even tho the clutch is still pressed in. Any idea whats wrong?
I have a john deere h3 140 do a video about axle seal replacement the crimp style bearing retainer is a pita to replace
hey tara dacktile i got a 6216 simplicity with a vari-drive stuck,got any good info,i know you do
You doing a good job
Swatters. Omg you guys are hilarious..love the pyjamas😂😂😂
Taryl, you sure gave those E-Z Wurkz guys what for!
Hey Taryl, I have a troy-built lawn tractor with that varible speed pulley. My issue with it is, you put in to low gear, start driving then after a bit it picks up speed and starts going too fast for the gear it is in. What causes this? Im sure you ran into this issue somewhere along the way...
Just be glad that POF mower is moving on it's own. It is very embarrassing to have to push a RIDING mower back to the garage. Though it is entertaining for the neighbors!
You're the man Carol
I know this post is old. What is the belt part number?Pop painted over all important information.
Thanks
Came for the instructions, stayed for the plot!!
If you own a 2005 MTD "Yardman" (model 13AG601h729), there a few changes starting with the "vari-speed" pulley. The pulley is a different design with ROLLER BEARINGS (p/n 941-0600) that ride in a "bearing cup" instead of the needle bearings. Also, the third pulley on the tension arm is NOT the same as the other 2. The p/n for that pulley is 756-04209. The belt numbers for THIS machine are: 954-0467A and 941-0468A, respectively! Otherwise, the procedure is the same!
Would it be ok to put some " never seize " on the engine output shaft to avoid the pulley rusting to the shaft for future repairs?
yes i have seen other videos where people have used anti sieze on that.
I would put anti-seize on all the pulley shafts, better than grease, attracts less dirt.
Best episode! Bring back mechanic friendly equipment.
Hilarious.
Love the humor and kick azz fixin stuff.
Saved my butt many times.
On a second note, I would have never rolled the dice on MTD turd except it had a Briggs opposed twin. Bought it for the engine, im a gluten for punishment evidently, after engine ran so good I hated to trash the unit. I'm second guessing that. I've owned several older Briggs twins and like em well. Usually, and you might agree is starter issues foremost. They need power to spin over. Second is carb and needing near full choke to get going. I watched another video of yours where you walked around the yard talking about a good dozen mowers and couldn't agree more! Don't make it look too easy. Lol.
I purchased this same rider, same color, except mine has a 21HP Briggs twin, in 2005 for $1099+tx at Home Depot. In seventeen years of ownership, I have had ZERO PROBLEMS with this mower, have replaced the PTO belt 5 times, the drive belts once. I have to admit that I am quite anal about the maintenance of this machine. I use FULL SYN oil and grease the zerks many times during the season. I use compressed air to clean off the unit after EVERY mowing and never leave it outside. I do not care for the cheaper deck design (compared to JD) for evacuating the grass clippings and the plastic front wheel bushings. But, compared to the cheapest JD mower at $2500 (in 2005), I would buy another one when this one wears out, I believe this machine will OUTLAST ME (pushin' 80). What turns these mowers into "turds" is obtuse owners who don't give a shyte (German) and treat them as disposables with hardly any maintenance and leaving them outdoors to ROT! Btw, MTD has a "better idea" by putting the battery under the seat instead of the "engine compartment" (like most others) where engine heat will help kill the battery, heat is the NUMBER ONE killer of batteries!
Anyone know y my mtd 125/96 main drive belt is to loose when i push the pedal down ?
Hey Taryl would you to a how too video on rebuilding a MTD non hydro transaxle. Like your videos! I have learned a lot about fixing small engines and mowers from you.
Anyone know where you can get a new bolt and sleeve from. Pulled mine apart and the bearings are gone and sleeve is rusted and stuck to bolt, plus has flat sides worn onto it. Don't want to spend $140 on a whole new pulley setup.
Harold I had the same problem I cut what u call the sleeve in haft and turned the bad end's together and welded it back together giving me 2 good end's for the new bearing to run on .I was not able to find that part