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How To Replace The Drive Belts On An MTD Variable Speed Riding Mower - with Taryl
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- Опубликовано: 7 авг 2024
- In yet another epic how-to video, "Taryl vs. E-Z Wurkz", Taryl goes over the long and lengthy process of changing the drive belts on an MTD variable speed riding mower. Prior to the fix, Taryl and Junior are stumped on how to fix this junky E-Z Wurkz push mower. Taryl takes it to the next level and files a complaint with the E-Z Wurkz engineers themselves. See how it all unfolds before and after the how-to fix! Another hilarious and informative small engine how-to video from your pals at Grass Rats Garage! Now There's Your Dinner!!
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#mtd #ridingmower #lawnmower #smallenginerepair #belt #drivebelt #drivebelts #tarylfixesall #grassratsgarage #variablespeed #diy
Love that part were you tell the guy you will be the last thing he sees,that is so funny,great job
Taryl, you just saved me a ton of money again! My Toro LX426 my father-in-law recently gave me stopped pulling. I looked at it underneath, and it's almost the same drive train as this one. The top belt and bottom one were both chewed up (same belts from factory, and it's a 2008 model). I watch your videos as soon as you put them out, so I recognized the drive train as soon as I saw it. I came right back to this video to get my dinner.
The only obvious differences underneath are mine has different steering that's sort of in the way, and the spring-loaded top pulley under the battry box has the spring on top. I had to take a nut off the top of the pulley to get the spring and a belt guide loose to get the top belt off.
This video helped me get the new belts on with almost no frustration at all. Just a few hard to break-free bolts/nuts. You are the man, and I really appreciate the dinner you're forking out. Please keep it up.
engineer2001 Thank you! Glad we could help and we'll keep on keepin on
Thanks Taryl, I have this exact MTD mower in Sydney Australia, can I compliment you by saying that I found this particular video and information in it very detailed, you didn’t miss a trick, as well as some components of the video quite entertaining.
I find your videos all great.Ta. The problem I have is getting a hold of replacement parts, obviously they’re a lot more readily available in US than here, Again great honest information in your videos , kind regards.....
Wow!! I had to do this job and noticed I did not install the guide pin for the belt on the correct side of the belt. No wonder why the belt jammed and started to burn. Thanks a ton for such an in depth procedure!!!
Thanks for the laughs. And the detailed instructions appreciated too
Good video. When I replaced the belts on a similar mower, I took the variable pulley off and drilled a pathway for grease to lubricate the bearings. Mounted a grease zerk on top of the bolt.
I did mine today on my 1998 mtd yard machine it has the Briggs apposed 17.5 I really like your videos at this moment I have 7 riders, it's always good to watch these videos.
Took me three days to figure it out.I didn't cut a hole,I removed the whole fender,seat,and pedals
Absolutely hilarious…a master mechanic no doubt about thst
Thanks, Thats the belt I'm replacing now , Thats one belt I never change before, watched quite a few videos on how to do it, Funny how they can do the whole job in 10 mins. Thanks to your video I got it done,,,liked and subscribed.
That "10 minute" replacement sounds like a "Scotty Kilmer" job. He can change a timing belt in his 1994 Ceelica in 15min ! LOL
That was the best one yet! Thanks Taryl!
Him showing you to bend the belt guides if the pulley is stuck on the engine is one way I had that problem so I instead removed the four engine mounting bolts and slid the motor back a few inch's and removed and replaced . After putting belt around pulley slide engine back into place and install bolts and tighten .
Great video I have a Husky/ MTD and the only way to start the mower is practically stand on the clutch/ brake is there some kind of adjustment for that mower 1998 Husky 13hp
I absolutly love ur videos Taryl !!!! they help me alot thanks alot THERES YOUR DINNER!
TheSiamese Rat ur welcome!! New video every Sunday at 9 am central!
Super funny, and I'm southern country. You're a genius with the whole idea of repair tutorials. People get frustrated on repairs and see your videos and laugh like hell. Then go fix it. I have probably a hundred different mower fixes under my belt, lol. Wrastling a bass-turd mtd today. Good beer break.. Thanks. Gonna subscribe too.
You've shown a lot of Videos on the MTD riding mowers but what about how to replace the mtd model 607 and 608 683-0450 Engagement Plate Assembly tensioner pulley??? Do ya really have to take the whole Mower apart to get to a Nut up by the Engine???
Been looking for this for an hour cos it helped previously when I had to put Murray 11ic/36 on its side to change drive belt. This is the only vido on the interscreen showing ow to tip a riding mower. Took lots of photos but couldn't remember details: remove battery? Drain oil & petrol?
So now my brake / clutch pedal doesn't spring back.
Thanks for vid wic I shall now SAVE!
Thanks Taryl! This was a bloody nightmare of a job but your video was awesome and helped turn my turd of a mower into an awesome machine. My place has lots of hills so with the main belt chewed up it didn't stop the mower. Now she stops on a dime. And yeah it's a poor man's hydro but I got it for a killer price, spent a couple days under it, did everything in your video plus leveled the deck, sharpened/balanced the blades, and now she runs, cuts and bags like a champ. Looks like shit but works great 👍
Great video,you guys do the best how to videos,great camera work and editing thanks for posting,and thanks for the laughs
Thanks for whooping ass at the end. Wish I could do that at times. Enjoy ur videos. Very informative n funny at the same time. Thank you.
Hey Taryl would you to a how too video on rebuilding a MTD non hydro transaxle. Like your videos! I have learned a lot about fixing small engines and mowers from you.
Great job asl always. Appreciate leaving in the things that go wrong, those are the things that us weekend mechanics really learn from. Those steril everything goes perfectly videos are completely not "real world" .
Sounds like a "hate" on Scotty Kilmer! LOL
Thanks a bunch for this video! I almost bought a new variable speed pulley which is 184 bucks on Amazon. I didn't know the bearings could be serviced. I also noticed the previous owner didn't have the 3/8 bolt and sleeve guide reinstalled, so I have to pick one up. I keep eating belts, so I am hoping this resolves the issue.
Taryl poked em in the eyes! hahaha
These intros/ends are hilarious and well made. Keep em coming!
Best mower repair channel on the innerweb... also the weirdest. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Really appreciate the video tutorial! My mower is a Troy Bilt LTX-1842 and appears to be the same. I purchased it from my neighbor and all the belts were in the same shape as the ones you replaced. I have a question related to the lower drive belt. I replaced it the hard way by jacking it up and crawled under it. After putting it back together, the lower belt was as loose as yours. Is it supposed to be the loose? I haven't finished putting it together because I wasn't sure. The manual suggests an adjust but having trouble making the adjustment. I hope you get this and can let me know if it is normal. Thanks.
27:05 I laughed way too hard at this. Every. Single. Time.
THANKS TARYL!
I remember watching this video last year and hoping and praying I would never see this mower.
Guess what showed up yesterday to be repaired. THE EXACT mower, except it looks more
like a bucket of rust.
It was made in 2000, and the owner is dumping money into it.
The transmission is probably dry by now, but he wants new belts....fine...whatever.
All labels are long gone, so it took a while to figure out the model: 13AK608G129
Many parts places have the correct parts, but manuals with that part # show a different
mower deck/belt configuration. Frustrating, but common.
Best luck to all!
You can add most car manufactures to the list of stupid, needless and unnecessary design systems. Their sole purpose is to augment repeated sells of cheaply made propitiatory parts to keep their company and dealers afloat.
I have watched nearly all of Taryls videos. They help me allot!
I just picked up one of these mowers and will be replacing the drive Belts soon. This will be a big help!. I am having trouble with the Deck belt. All though The factory replacement once installed and the belt properly routed there is to much slack even under tension with the PTO engaged for the belt to turn the blades. There does not appear to be any tension adjustment points. Is there anything else I can check such as deck location or pulley size that might help with this? The OEM Belt is supposed to be 97 inches but when I put a rope through the system and measure it under tension it is only 89.25 inches. I feel like there is something big and obvious that I am missing.
Thank you Taryl...you hit on exactly what I needed!!
Thank you for making this video it really helped me out.
Do you have to replace both drive pullies at the same time? I only replaced the one that went bad on mine and now the belt is slipping sometimes. Someone told me its because I didn't do both of the belts at the same time, but if that's not why I don't want to waste 40 bucks on a new one. I also installed the little collar with the curve side the wrong way so I'll have to fix that.
You're the man Carol
can you adjust the drive belt tension? replaced mine on the same style of mower. it's a Lawn chief made by mtd.Looks very similar to the mower you showed. Now when put into forward or reverse the mower creeps and the brakes won't work due to the transmission spinning. I thought it might break in after an hour or two of use but it hasn't. Should I adjust the arm that goes to the pulley from the pedal? Or should no adjustment be required after placing it?
Taryl...you make Goofy look pretty darn normal! :) Thanks so much for putting this out on RUclips. Not sure I could have rebuilt the deck and replaced all the belts without it!
Brilliant video thank u 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
I have an old LOWES brand - the rear drive belt for the trans broke. I can't tell if I have the bew belt on right and or where this one spring goes. I looked many times at the diagram but I am still lost ---- I have the deck off - the new belt on and am still stumped. It's for a friend and I don't want to spend the money on his behalf. I usually can fix these without help but at 71 there are some that require HELP.
he hee just turn it up side down to work on it 🤣 Good Job 👍
Taryl, you sure gave those E-Z Wurkz guys what for!
Mr taryl, I have a question, if I have a mtd 618-0163b transmission, is there a generic Tran can fit for replacement? Thanks
This seems *very* similar (Perhaps identical) to my TroyBilt Garden Way. I read there were but outs and acquisitions every which way...
LOVE it!
Replaced all drive belts and deck belts now runs well. But did I move something because now the brakes works on neutral or engine not working. Brakes on the mower will not stop when the engine is running forward or reverse. Any suggestion to fix? thanks.
I have this exact mower and just replaced the drive belts. They are the correct belts, but my issue is that the belts are too loose. I adjusted the tensioner arm as much as possible (shortened it) and it is still too loose. It is routed correctly as well. Anything I’m missing that will help out? It only engages in gear if the pedal is almost floored.
Taryl, I have a similar MTD Yard Machines with this motor and drive system with a 46" deck. Should my deck already be sitting on the ground after only putting the height selector down from 5 to 4? I would think it shouldn't be on the ground until in position 1. If mine is not correct what could I look at to fix this?
hey taryl, is the disengagement rod a way to adjust the tension on the deck belt on a yard man 136x694g401
hey taryl ive got a huskee supreme 26 hp 54'' cut that I replaced the variable speed belt and the other just like on this video but now the new belt sounds like its slapping around real bad. is there an adjustment to tighten it up or is there something I may be missing. thank for your help.
Came for the instructions, stayed for the plot!!
That long run of belt is really loose. I am wrapping up on a similar model right now the Huskee 808k. Should I be concerned with the tension? I definitely bought the MTD OEM belt. Mine has an electric clutch. 2004 model. I appreciate the video very much. But if you have any chance to offer any final advice I would definitely take it!
Gary I pulled that transaxle and replaced the axle bearings, and checked the clearances in all the gears. Put it back together and same sound. I have heard some of these were noisey from the factory. Some had issues with the case not being true . Rather that's true I don't know. I am out of ideas. Wonder what Teryls input would be.
good chance the sound is being made by a bad bearings in one or more of the pulley's and it's a good chance it's the variably speed pulley
Thanks for the video. I watched it before changing the belts on the same rider mower.
I just changed the pulleys on the same mower the pulleys i got look just like the ones you installed, the second pulley I put on hangs down just a little lower then the first pulley is that the way its supposed to be, any info would help, thank you
Have a 2012 Craftsman model 247.2888529(LT 2000 with a briggs engine and 46 inch cut) with low hours that i've taken apart to repack the bearings underneath on . Took that assembly off that has the two pulleys on it that tensions the lower drive belt (the one that runs from the engine small pulley all the way back to the lower variable speed pulley after running through the tensioner you speak of that has the hole in the top of the platform drilled that the "geniuses at MTD" placed in the later models). Well. with the assembley off I can see the hole up in the platform where the bolt of the assembly goes through that looks to be the size necessary for the bolt going through the assembly; but then to the right of it as you would set in the seat there is a SECOND bigger hole right next to it that was obviously machined there from the factory. The tiny amount of metal between the two holes has worn through where the two holes are now connected. Parts diagram of the machine shows only one hole there. Since you also have a second thinner piece of metal above the piece that these holes were machined into (the thin piece that makes up your platform and where all the safety decals are stuck on to and makes it difficult to work on the piece of metal that the holes are drilled through underneath.....guess I'll need to take a cut off grinder and remove a portion of that thin platform so I can get to the two drilled holes and maybe weld a bolt in place permanently or even weld the big thin flat washer in place that dropped down when I removed the assembly. When you work that assembly from side to side with your foot on the variable speed pedal.....guess it wore that little hole oblong to where it joined the other hole even through the bolt was snug it wasn't real tight and the assembly musta been working left to right all the time. ANY IDEAS WHAT THAT SECOND DRILLED HOLE WAS FOR ANYONE?
Taryl, You are Da Man! My upper drive belt on my Cub Cadet was shot. I saw that this mower was similar to mine. I figured it was going to take hours to get to the upper belt and get it out. Now, here's the part where I got my dinner! You flipped up the seat, said take out the battery and just lift out the battery holder - - DingDingDing!! There was the upper belt right in front of my face!! About 15 minutes later I was back in the house watching football. You are the one and only Taryl Dactl!! Thanks
If you own a 2005 MTD "Yardman" (model 13AG601h729), there a few changes starting with the "vari-speed" pulley. The pulley is a different design with ROLLER BEARINGS (p/n 941-0600) that ride in a "bearing cup" instead of the needle bearings. Also, the third pulley on the tension arm is NOT the same as the other 2. The p/n for that pulley is 756-04209. The belt numbers for THIS machine are: 954-0467A and 941-0468A, respectively! Otherwise, the procedure is the same!
Swatters. Omg you guys are hilarious..love the pyjamas😂😂😂
I have a john deere h3 140 do a video about axle seal replacement the crimp style bearing retainer is a pita to replace
the best video on your channel - skit was AWESOME!
I know this video is not about deck height adjustment. But I am having a problem with the height of my mower deck. I need to raise it higher than the maximum 6 position. I have a Murray model 40507x8a. Can the height of the deck be raised up more than the normal height maximum range?
Tarly .... legend!
Anyway you can tell me the part number for the spring that’s hooked to the deck engagement lever.
great stunts guys 👍😁
Best episode! Bring back mechanic friendly equipment.
Seems like it could b a sort of torque converter found on mini-bikes an Go-Karts.
One pulley opens up or closes so it could be an 8 inch pulley or a 4 inch pulley,
changing the speed and torque.
Another classic! Funny and educational!
Nice work team Taryl !!!
I just changed my craftsman drive belt and now its hard to shift in F and R and as soon as u do it starts to go even tho the clutch is still pressed in. Any idea whats wrong?
Designed to fail. Great video! Nice house Taryl!
Would it be ok to put some " never seize " on the engine output shaft to avoid the pulley rusting to the shaft for future repairs?
yes i have seen other videos where people have used anti sieze on that.
I would put anti-seize on all the pulley shafts, better than grease, attracts less dirt.
Have a Murry mdl 425303x92b. having trouble with drive belt routing. can u help?
Is the belt guide on lx460 Toro in the same place
Will the head of a 15 horse ohv briggs fit and work on a 14.5 briggs?
great vidieo
I replaced a drive belt on a Bolens (MTD?) and the 1-6 position speed control no longer works and is stuck in 1 or 2 slow speed. It's the correct belt but went on really tight. Any ideas on what happened? Tension spring was really tight and hard to get back on. I can't even tell what that speed lever does to make it work.
Trayl I need your help........................I purchased a used MTD 20hp / 14 speed / Transmatic Garden Tractor and I just got finished rebuilding the entire thing, however, I have one issue.................There is NO belt that runs from the engine pulley to the drive pulley on the Mowing Deck and I have NO CLUE what size belt I need for it....CAN YOU HELP?? (the manuals I have do not give any belt sizes for the mower)
hey Darryl I don't have the part number to my mower but that's spacer that goes in the variable speed pulley I need a part number can you help me out
I have a craftsman T1600 19 HP variation speed model 247-203741, can you provide a picture of the belt diagram for the lower drive belt- bot sure how to route the belt thru the pulleys
Too funny a d informative, too. Another great video Derrelll.
Do you recommend the JD 105 with the variable drive transmissions?
JD is OVERRATED and OVER PRICED!
Tarryl I need some advice I have a 2003 MTD Yard Machines Rider. It's not hydrostatic but has the automatic drive with the F N R lever and you push on the Pedal to make it go and control your speed.
Is it normal for these Transaxles to have a whine to them under load like going up a hill but the whine goes away when the load decreases. Wanting to fix this annoying sound.
Shaws Garage I have the same tractor, mine does the same thing, I also would like to know if I can fix this.
Shaws Garage the transmissions are commonly known to go out in these model mowers over time. Unfortunately not worth fixing and it's hard to find used ones because it's a common part people are looking for! Now there's Yur dinner!!
@@TarylFixesAll Would putting some sawdust in the tranny help quiet it down!
I wish I watched this prior to replacing all my belts.I figured out how to put it on its side to get access,but while reinstalling them I lost that damn belt keeper at 27:08,just like Taryl.Its in the grass I think.I guess I'll order one,and may as well order all the idlers as well.
All the parts are adding up,but the mower was only $100.
Great and entertaining, again you made me glad I have a 1993 12.5/42, much less complicated. I put oil in the hole on the top of that VS pulley every year. I had to change those roller bearings once after they became like little square things and jammed. My mower is ALWAYS stored inside.
Hey Grant, I'm glad you store your mower inside. I almost hate to return repaired mowers since the owners leave them out in the rain under an oak tree and they rust away (Florida). I'm supposed to fix THAT?
I need a middle man so I don't have to deal with STUPID PEOPLE!
You could put a rubber plug in your access hole to flash it up.
Shout out to you and your camera man this is another great video. Thankyou for your time and i appreciate you being clear and specific to the steps in all your videos. And theres YUR dinner!
Bruce Lamb thanks for viewing Bruce! Now There's Your Dinner!!
Always funny and your videos are very descriptive and how to fix things nice job
i put a new drive belt on my mtd,, but now when you have to push down hard the last three inches or so,,,to go faster ,,, my leg gets tired,,,,,any ideas,,,thanks
Working on a huskee, (same tractor) for a friend. Need to replace these drive belts. The tractor wants to creep forward or reverse even when not pushing the "go" pedal. Any ideas why? I can't believe this is normal. I've got the brake caliper/pins moving freely but it will overpower the brake when in forward or reverse.
Well I've answered my own question and thought I'd post the resolution for anyone interested. After watching this video and doing the job (not that bad to do, thanks to Taryl). I found that the drive belt had both sides routed around the guide pin (the 3/8 bolt head with the spacer.) This created a slight bit of extra tension that shouldn't be there. Also my variable speed sheeve pulley was pretty gummed up and not sliding well. Cleaned that up and lubricated it well and cleaned a little rust off the pulley surfaces. Good to go now.
Question for you, I have a Troy Bilt Bronco auto bought 2018 had to replace drive belt and once done I tested it put it in forward and it just took off put it into neutral and it still wanted to go. What's your feedback on something like this?
I got one just s little older, I understand you have to use OEM belts because the ones you get from Lowes or Home Depot are a different thickness. That will make a difference.
Ok thank you for the info
Hilarious.
Love the humor and kick azz fixin stuff.
Saved my butt many times.
Ur episodes are getting even better!
great video guys your the best
You 'da man Taryl! Really enjoy your videos.
Taryl please help. I have a 604G model almost identical to this one. After replacing the lower drive belt now I have no tension at all for drive pedal. This is so out of my comfort zone any suggestions will be greatly appreciated
Recheck the belt P/N and the routing!
Also what was wrong with the middle 2 pullies you replaced? They were spinning freely and weren't groved? Just wondering.
Noisy bearings will go out sooner than later.
@@dabone3248 CORRECT!
On a second note, I would have never rolled the dice on MTD turd except it had a Briggs opposed twin. Bought it for the engine, im a gluten for punishment evidently, after engine ran so good I hated to trash the unit. I'm second guessing that. I've owned several older Briggs twins and like em well. Usually, and you might agree is starter issues foremost. They need power to spin over. Second is carb and needing near full choke to get going. I watched another video of yours where you walked around the yard talking about a good dozen mowers and couldn't agree more! Don't make it look too easy. Lol.
I purchased this same rider, same color, except mine has a 21HP Briggs twin, in 2005 for $1099+tx at Home Depot. In seventeen years of ownership, I have had ZERO PROBLEMS with this mower, have replaced the PTO belt 5 times, the drive belts once. I have to admit that I am quite anal about the maintenance of this machine. I use FULL SYN oil and grease the zerks many times during the season. I use compressed air to clean off the unit after EVERY mowing and never leave it outside. I do not care for the cheaper deck design (compared to JD) for evacuating the grass clippings and the plastic front wheel bushings. But, compared to the cheapest JD mower at $2500 (in 2005), I would buy another one when this one wears out, I believe this machine will OUTLAST ME (pushin' 80). What turns these mowers into "turds" is obtuse owners who don't give a shyte (German) and treat them as disposables with hardly any maintenance and leaving them outdoors to ROT! Btw, MTD has a "better idea" by putting the battery under the seat instead of the "engine compartment" (like most others) where engine heat will help kill the battery, heat is the NUMBER ONE killer of batteries!
Anyone know y my mtd 125/96 main drive belt is to loose when i push the pedal down ?
A really big thank you to Taryl for showing me so clearly how to do this absolute prick of a job. As a weekend mechanic I was very happy to see Taryl cut a hole in the footwell fender to access the other side of a pulley bolt nut - I was going spare trying to figure out how to get to it, and it gave me confidence to do the same thing. (I made a small improvement by peeling back the sticker first then cutting the hole, so I can cover the hole with the sticker lol).
My setup was slightly different in that the rear variator pulley wasn't bolted to the axle but to the chassis behind the rear left wheel so i had to pull the left rear wheel off as well.
It seriously is the most ridiculous method for changing a drive belt.
I think my "Bug" Yardman by MTD (16HP Kohler single with 42" cutting deck and the cheap imitator hydro drive) is the EZ-Wurks 9000 POS, way worse than the 8000 POS (that Taryl refers to) to work on.
Thanks for taking your complaint up with the people who design this stuff Taryl, I laughed my arse off but it hurt as well, because it's so true.
Thanks to your channel I can do so much mower maintenance now, faster and better than before.
Big tip of the hat to you & your team from this DIY'er Down Under.
Keep up the great work!
How do you figure out what model and serial number if the Sticker under the seats is gone? There's an EPA sticker for California says meets 2000-2001. I have a model and serial number on the trans. I also have a serial number and model number on the motor. And it appears to be the same model you're working on?
Could you please talk to EZ Works and have them build a 20 propeller Hover Rake to clean up leaves before they fall. Make sure they use some obscure fasteners too!
Thanks Taryl