I know this is an old video but both Grizzly and Timber wolf blades are terrible, Grizzly being far worse, If you are looking for an amazing re saw blade at a very reasonable price check out the wood slicer blades from Highland. I normally use a Laguna bandsaw king blade witch is basically the Lamborghini of bandsaw blades for re sawing but they are over $200, worth it but I realize not everyone wants to spend half there rent on one blade. I use the wood slicer blades when I'm re sawing all of my extremely hard fingerboard woods such as ebony and it cuts through them like butter with pretty much no chatter marks. I also use them extensively for cutting out guitar body shapes because they are thin enough for radius cuts unlike the re saw king and it save undo wear and tear on that blade as well. Love your videos by the way.
Thanks for the help me cut up some mesquite, Chinese elm, Mediterranean rosewood, poplar, and sweet acacia, I'll totally be using your Ukulele build videos to build my own!
thanks for this. just sharpened my blade using a dremmel so looking forward to how it cuts. however i do not see the point in grinding the back. will this not just decrease life of blade and offer no benefit to the cutting face?
Foley belsaw has many grinders that are designed to sharpen anything. The grinding wheels are of many thickness so you pick a wheel to fit the gullet of what ever saw blade you are sharpening. Look up videos for Foley Belsaw and learn and then love life. .
You are correct but for his application, ripping through huge chunks of dessert hardwood it's not a huge deal. If he were needing precision cuts you are right he would need to alternate, skip every other tooth on one pass then flip the blade on the second. The best way to do it is dole out the $20-$30 for a new blade, 2 hours of my time is worth way more than that. Nothing wring with saving money though if time is not an issue.
I have a great results with sharpening my bandsaw mill blades with a straight grinder (die grinder) with 6mm grinding stone. I can sharpen 6 blades (4m long) with one grinding stone (0,7€ piece) and is is really scary sharp. I will make a video about it soon.
(upped your response) There is also a small 'jiglike' tool that 'pushes' teeth on such blades back into full set. Thanks for the video, really appreciate the info.
I can resharp my 4m long bandsaw mill blade with straight grinder for 15 minutes. I can really not earn more money at work then cost new blade in that time (in my free time) . And I have a sharp blade immediately. Not need to wait 3 day from order to delivery...
I know this is an old video but both Grizzly and Timber wolf blades are terrible, Grizzly being far worse, If you are looking for an amazing re saw blade at a very reasonable price check out the wood slicer blades from Highland. I normally use a Laguna bandsaw king blade witch is basically the Lamborghini of bandsaw blades for re sawing but they are over $200, worth it but I realize not everyone wants to spend half there rent on one blade. I use the wood slicer blades when I'm re sawing all of my extremely hard fingerboard woods such as ebony and it cuts through them like butter with pretty much no chatter marks. I also use them extensively for cutting out guitar body shapes because they are thin enough for radius cuts unlike the re saw king and it save undo wear and tear on that blade as well. Love your videos by the way.
Thanks for the help me cut up some mesquite, Chinese elm, Mediterranean rosewood, poplar, and sweet acacia, I'll totally be using your Ukulele build videos to build my own!
Ahha! You do have a Dremel. I see you build guitars, so does my brother.
thanks for this. just sharpened my blade using a dremmel so looking forward to how it cuts. however i do not see the point in grinding the back. will this not just decrease life of blade and offer no benefit to the cutting face?
The reason the Timberwolf blades last so long is because the back of the blades are made of silicon steel, which is very flexible.
Nice one
Foley belsaw has many grinders that are designed to sharpen anything. The grinding wheels are of many thickness so you pick a wheel to fit the gullet of what ever saw blade you are sharpening. Look up videos for Foley Belsaw and learn and then love life. .
You change the heat treatment of the blade every time you turn the edge blue and darker.
You are correct but for his application, ripping through huge chunks of dessert hardwood it's not a huge deal. If he were needing precision cuts you are right he would need to alternate, skip every other tooth on one pass then flip the blade on the second. The best way to do it is dole out the $20-$30 for a new blade, 2 hours of my time is worth way more than that. Nothing wring with saving money though if time is not an issue.
😊
I have a great results with sharpening my bandsaw mill blades with a straight grinder (die grinder) with 6mm grinding stone. I can sharpen 6 blades (4m long) with one grinding stone (0,7€ piece) and is is really scary sharp. I will make a video about it soon.
Hey. Have you done your video, it's interesting me and i can't find it.
You lose the set on teeth the more you sharpen
I did it myself. I used Woodglut woodworking plans for this.
Those teeth are pointed in different ways! Ever other tooth is pointed a different side! You grinding them all the same way! That's wrong
(upped your response) There is also a small 'jiglike' tool that 'pushes' teeth on such blades back into full set.
Thanks for the video, really appreciate the info.
lifes to short,just buy a new blade
I buy a new car each time the new car needs any repair also.
I can resharp my 4m long bandsaw mill blade with straight grinder for 15 minutes. I can really not earn more money at work then cost new blade in that time (in my free time) . And I have a sharp blade immediately. Not need to wait 3 day from order to delivery...
@@bobbailey7235 ahh yes because a car costs $20
Get on with it talking to much
ты можешь по русски говорить, а то вообще ничего не понятно?