I watched this video yesterday and then tried this method after work last night. I can't believe how easy this is to do and how well it works, my blade cut like butter! Thanks for sharing your technique.
This is great! I've been planning a big jig setup for sharpening the blades for my saw mill with my Dremel, but no longer. I'll be using your grinder technique on them for sure!
thank you for this excellent demonstration, you are completle true. i tried it and there is a big difference before and after sharpening ( a new blade). sorry for my bad englsish !!
Holy S*** I just sharpened my 1" 1.3 TPI 162" blade on my Laguna resaw master and I even did the test run with 16" microlam. It took 2:03 to make the first cut. After a whole 15 min of sharping we made the cut again . Oh my God it took only 4 seconds, I can't wait to cut all my curved whit oak braces tomorrow. 4" thick and 48" long.
soooooooo i watched the snodgrass band-saw video, got my saw really cutting nice with PS timber-wolf blades now i find this....so im off to sharpen my blades. Love the video and really impressed with the improvement. Thanks also for the "reason" as to why not leave the tension on the blade..i am embarrassed to say, that had not crossed my mind. Well done man...
Your setup for sharpening is great, just wish diamond wheels were cheaper. Your timed tutorial is a great!!! I used to purchase from Suffolk for band saw blades. I always had good cuts from them. Then I tried the timberwolf blades, more money and a terrible cut!!! Now I buy my blades from spectrumsupply - the Kerfmaster. They cut like butter from the get go. I always resharpen them with a dremel and a 600 grit diamond stone. I get about 7-10 sharpenings before the is set is gone. Thank you!!!!!
I love your videos! Love your presentation, style, everything! You are so much like me too! Thanks for your time, and I just subscribed to your channel! I'm not a boatbuilder, nor do I figure I ever will be. But I AM a woodworker, and it's so obvious you are too. Nice looking shop also!
Thanks for posting! Might want to re-visit the Dremel Tool option there. I used the same blade for almost 10 years, sharpening with a Dremel Tool, and getting the gullets *and* the tips. I got about 40 sharpenings out of my 1/2" Timber Wolf blade. Had to change the blade "set" a few times. But, it only takes 5 minutes per blade to sharpen with the Dremel, which is a huge bonus. And, you can leave the blade on the saw.
Any book or expert will tell you that the teeth of any saw should be sharpened after they have been set or swaged. But manufacturers usually don't do that for bandsaws, so the tooth face angle is usually off. Also, cheap blades have stamped teeth and better ones have milled teeth. The best have ground teeth - after they have been set. That's why resharpened blades are sharper than new, and also why carbide tip blades are sharper to begin with. Nice video.
Great video. Make sure to remove the pitch / gunk from the blades too. I have had good results sharpening the gullets but I will try this technique next.
It is the first time I tryed some technique learned here, youtube. And worked great at first! I did not removed the bandsaw, it is a big 32" pulleys bandsaw, I used a Dremel tool and a support, but, nevertheless, the procudure was very similar to your. Many thanks for sharing.
YES! been throwing them aside for years....THIS ABSOLUTELY WORKS, AND WELL. I didn't even do a very good job on my wood slicer 1/2 3 TPI blade and I swear it was better than it was out of the box. Maybe it was just that dull. I imagine over time the surface finish left will get rougher, but it works stupidly good and easy. You only need barely touch it like he states for it to work, couple of sparks from each tooth and move on, you'll be surprised at how well this works. I used a fine wheel. THANKS.
i've noticed that when i sharpen my drill bits that they seem to cut better then new ones, it sounds like the same thing rings true for band saw blades!
Well this does change the profile of the teeth and eventually there will be no teeth at all. But considering most people will just keep torturing their dull saws or throw them away completely this is a very welcome process, plus it is really easy.
Its how to turn a cheap stamped blade into a "expensive" ground blade. Money saving at its finest. I bet if you did this test on a new blade you would see similar results. Not as drastic but it would be better than new.
I watched this video yesterday and then tried this method after work last night. I can't believe how easy this is to do and how well it works, my blade cut like butter! Thanks for sharing your technique.
This is great! I've been planning a big jig setup for sharpening the blades for my saw mill with my Dremel, but no longer. I'll be using your grinder technique on them for sure!
Wow!!! I was not expecting that kind of results.. Great vid man! You just saved me a lot of money and time!
Wow! Amazing tutorial... The weighted cut test was pure genius! Thanks for sharing!
thank you for this excellent demonstration, you are completle true. i tried it and there is a big difference before and after sharpening ( a new blade). sorry for my bad englsish !!
Holy S*** I just sharpened my 1" 1.3 TPI 162" blade on my Laguna resaw master and I even did the test run with 16" microlam. It took 2:03 to make the first cut. After a whole 15 min of sharping we made the cut again . Oh my God it took only 4 seconds, I can't wait to cut all my curved whit oak braces tomorrow. 4" thick and 48" long.
soooooooo i watched the snodgrass band-saw video, got my saw really cutting nice with PS timber-wolf blades now i find this....so im off to sharpen my blades. Love the video and really impressed with the improvement. Thanks also for the "reason" as to why not leave the tension on the blade..i am embarrassed to say, that had not crossed my mind. Well done man...
Your setup for sharpening is great, just wish diamond wheels were cheaper.
Your timed tutorial is a great!!!
I used to purchase from Suffolk for band saw blades. I always had good cuts from them. Then I tried the timberwolf blades, more money and a terrible cut!!! Now I buy my blades from spectrumsupply - the Kerfmaster.
They cut like butter from the get go. I always resharpen them with a dremel and a 600 grit diamond stone. I get about 7-10 sharpenings before the is set is gone.
Thank you!!!!!
great demo what is the grit of you grinding wheel?
Very informative tutorial, thank you sir. gives me hope for my dulled blades, which I used the other day. Cheers
I love your videos! Love your presentation, style, everything! You are so much like me too! Thanks for your time, and I just subscribed to your channel! I'm not a boatbuilder, nor do I figure I ever will be. But I AM a woodworker, and it's so obvious you are too. Nice looking shop also!
Thanks for posting! Might want to re-visit the Dremel Tool option there. I used the same blade for almost 10 years, sharpening with a Dremel Tool, and getting the gullets *and* the tips. I got about 40 sharpenings out of my 1/2" Timber Wolf blade. Had to change the blade "set" a few times. But, it only takes 5 minutes per blade to sharpen with the Dremel, which is a huge bonus. And, you can leave the blade on the saw.
Any book or expert will tell you that the teeth of any saw should be sharpened after they have been set or swaged. But manufacturers usually don't do that for bandsaws, so the tooth face angle is usually off. Also, cheap blades have stamped teeth and better ones have milled teeth. The best have ground teeth - after they have been set. That's why resharpened blades are sharper than new, and also why carbide tip blades are sharper to begin with. Nice video.
thank you very much for your excellent tutorial, i did an hour ago what you show in your video en the difference is FANTASTIC. thank you.
Great video. Make sure to remove the pitch / gunk from the blades too. I have had good results sharpening the gullets but I will try this technique next.
It is the first time I tryed some technique learned here, youtube. And worked great at first! I did not removed the bandsaw, it is a big 32" pulleys bandsaw, I used a Dremel tool and a support, but, nevertheless, the procudure was very similar to your.
Many thanks for sharing.
YES! been throwing them aside for years....THIS ABSOLUTELY WORKS, AND WELL. I didn't even do a very good job on my wood slicer 1/2 3 TPI blade and I swear it was better than it was out of the box. Maybe it was just that dull. I imagine over time the surface finish left will get rougher, but it works stupidly good and easy. You only need barely touch it like he states for it to work, couple of sparks from each tooth and move on, you'll be surprised at how well this works. I used a fine wheel. THANKS.
You did not need the stopwatch... what a difference! Well, I have some blades to sharpen. Thanks for the tip.
Holy shit! Off to the shop right now. Thanks!
Great video, I will try this with mine tomorrow.
Man, that was useful information. Thank you Sir.
i've noticed that when i sharpen my drill bits that they seem to cut better then new ones, it sounds like the same thing rings true for band saw blades!
Brilliant, consider the idea stolen, again ! Thanks for sharing.
Well this does change the profile of the teeth and eventually there will be no teeth at all.
But considering most people will just keep torturing their dull saws or throw them away completely this is a very welcome process, plus it is really easy.
thanks for showing in real life example the difference this makes.
Your right it's not a matter of money, it's about getting the point.
Nice and excelente video, well done and well explained,, thank you
Great video
great demo thanks
GOOD TEST I,M SICK OF BUYING BLADES I AM GOING TO TRY THIS TOMOZ THANKS NICE,
Brilliant!
thank you
thank
Wielkie dzięki
badass
Consider this trick, stolen! Alright? Thanks for the tip.
Its how to turn a cheap stamped blade into a "expensive" ground blade. Money saving at its finest. I bet if you did this test on a new blade you would see similar results. Not as drastic but it would be better than new.