You definitely gotta do a build of one of these I recently got one myself and a 72v motor I just need a controller and a battery that would fit and not look stupid
Might give the 2800w 60v amazon hubs a try. 48v got me 37 mph. 18s (75v full charged) got me 54mph. Nice and smooth no chain noise. That was with Kelly 300 phase amp KLS. I'm sure a far driver with the weak would push even more.
Man Ive been mounting those controllers in seats like that for all my builds. But they need air. I add a couple intake fans and a rear exhaust. Those controllers get so hot in there. On mine i cut out both sides for air and it helps and is hidden by the scooter plastics. Anyways something to keep an eye on. 9 year old girl may not be riding so much that it matters.
Appreciate the input! I thought about this, but the controller barely sees any load and she’s stuck on the lowest speed mode for a while. Now if it was pulling at least 50 amps on a 72V set up.. it would generate a lot more heat so you’re right about that
@@PatOutdoors you will be surprised. If she's not riding a mile or two straight and probably at her age i would suspect not. Butt every one even at the 30ish amps it's pulling will get hot. To the point you can't touch it. Now here in the summer it's miserable hot so that plays a role. I will ride mine to my folks which is a couple miles and when I get there it's smoking without ventilation. Again, with her probably not riding hard.
How does that battery controller combo work. Since you can’t program those controllers it’s trying to pull 2000w from your 1000w battery. Was always told that will heat up your battery and burn out.
Hey pat we were talking about you buying a hub motor off of me a couple days ago. I have a razor build and I bought a tail light I already had a 12 v converter because I had lights in but I can’t figure out how to make the brake light turn on with my key.
@@splux5678 yes, I responded to that comment with full detail. This bike is not set up to have running lamps, only when brake applied, like I said in the video.
you don't need a special output. I use a step down to 12v converter to feed power. You just need to feed power to brake switch then other side to light power wire. Then other wire of light goes to ground. Press the brake and it closes the circuit which lights it up. If your light handles original voltage you may not need a step down
Sickkk build bro 🔥 similar to my build 🔥
You definitely gotta do a build of one of these I recently got one myself and a 72v motor I just need a controller and a battery that would fit and not look stupid
Fun build almost done
Might give the 2800w 60v amazon hubs a try. 48v got me 37 mph. 18s (75v full charged) got me 54mph. Nice and smooth no chain noise. That was with Kelly 300 phase amp KLS. I'm sure a far driver with the weak would push even more.
Beast! I’m too sketched to do that on a pocket mod..
@@PatOutdoors lol, it boogies! ruclips.net/video/77MHvfHNzIQ/видео.html
I hope you added front brakes! If not good luck.
Love the vids bro
I was wondering how long the battery last
Hi Pat nice vid love the build vids
Hey i couldnt find the ebay link got the adding the break disc
Hey Pat! When’s the next local ride? Cool build btw 👍🏼
Where did you get the tail light
Man Ive been mounting those controllers in seats like that for all my builds. But they need air. I add a couple intake fans and a rear exhaust. Those controllers get so hot in there. On mine i cut out both sides for air and it helps and is hidden by the scooter plastics. Anyways something to keep an eye on. 9 year old girl may not be riding so much that it matters.
Appreciate the input! I thought about this, but the controller barely sees any load and she’s stuck on the lowest speed mode for a while. Now if it was pulling at least 50 amps on a 72V set up.. it would generate a lot more heat so you’re right about that
@@PatOutdoors you will be surprised. If she's not riding a mile or two straight and probably at her age i would suspect not. Butt every one even at the 30ish amps it's pulling will get hot. To the point you can't touch it. Now here in the summer it's miserable hot so that plays a role. I will ride mine to my folks which is a couple miles and when I get there it's smoking without ventilation. Again, with her probably not riding hard.
How does that battery controller combo work. Since you can’t program those controllers it’s trying to pull 2000w from your 1000w battery. Was always told that will heat up your battery and burn out.
@@jeffmoen8563 it’s really just capped at 1500w by the battery 30 amp BMS. A bigger battery would deff be a better option
Hey pat we were talking about you buying a hub motor off of me a couple days ago. I have a razor build and I bought a tail light I already had a 12 v converter because I had lights in but I can’t figure out how to make the brake light turn on with my key.
@@splux5678 yes, I responded to that comment with full detail. This bike is not set up to have running lamps, only when brake applied, like I said in the video.
Hey Pat. I am working on a Pocket Mod right now and have just received the wheels from Aliexpress. What axles are you using? Thanks for your videos!
@@robmcculley6835 I’m just using the factory axles. Did you go with a larger diameter wheelset?
Choosing the purple colorway was definitely a hit, so close to 10k
@@CarGamerOfficial just a few hundred away from a giveaway coming 😉
Was the switch on level 3?
Level 2
can i use 48v 2amp battery?
No you can't. It wouldn't supply enough power or last very long.
does the battery have bms or does it over charge
@@Adam_erides it has a 30A BMS
@@PatOutdoors thank you because i am wanting to do a build but it did not say it had bms
@@Adam_erides Definitely get a battery with a BMS.
Do you have parts list somewhere for the mod?
@@torokun in the description
I do not have a brake light output
You must have brake light output to have power going to the brake light.
you don't need a special output. I use a step down to 12v converter to feed power. You just need to feed power to brake switch then other side to light power wire. Then other wire of light goes to ground. Press the brake and it closes the circuit which lights it up. If your light handles original voltage you may not need a step down