Hello my dear friend. This is a really good idea. Perfect result with separator. This table saw cover tip is convenient and practical. I have to do it like this. Thank you for your inspiration. Congratulations. Big greetings, best regards.
I have a Shopsmith Riving knife somewhere, but recovering from cancer I have not been in my shop for over a year. Now I can spend some time back out there. I was just going to purchase another one, but at around $40 for a piece of metal I have started your process to make three Zero inserts for my Shopsmith Mark V 520. Somewhat complicated, but not something I can't do. Thank you again for your How To video. It is the most simple I have seen.
Great idea, thank you for sharing this! I recently acquired a small Rockwell Beaver table saw from 1963 with minimal clearance behind the blade. This solution will work for me.
Thanks for the info, I will be making these up as soon as my finger is working again. After 40 years of working with power tools, I mulched my finger in the Tablesaw, kick back and no riving knife 😢 Will never use a Tablesaw without one again.
Nicely done Mario 😁. I've been meaning to make some zero inserts for about 2 years now.... but now I've convinced myself I need a new tablesaw... so hopefully I will get all enthusiastic with the new saw and make a few. Great video, stay safe 😁👍🇬🇧
How much fun is woodworking Mario, it allows us to be creative when making something but if we make a blew we can normally fix it up, grouse video mate 🇦🇺🍻👍
Hi Mario! I found your channel from recommedions from Mark Dainer, Dirk, Chris and many others. I'm currently restoring an old Wadkin tablesaw and need to make a new insert, so this was really helpful. Looking forward to many more tips on your channel. Cheers from Denmark
Absolutely, it's such a small and easy project that it makes no sense to not just do it. Of course, it took me over 3 years to do it so maybe I shouldn't talk, but, still. 😃
Good well explained video Mario, at some stage can you do a follow up on your bandsaw project, I realise the plans are available but you didn't do a part 4 video on finishing it.
Hi Ralph, I hate to say it, but I never completed the project! It's still sitting in my shop, I had a little hiatus from woodworking and haven't gotten back there yet. My plan is to get back into it by the end of the year though, I'm keen to see how it works.
I forgot to mention that my tablesaw is a 1956 Sears Craftsman I got from my grandfather. Custom inserts like yours are the answer I've been looking for. Thanks again.
Nice Mario. Raising the blade to create the curved section is not something that came to mind right away. Which is wierd as that's how you create any other zero clearance plate 😅
Hah, in hindsight, there would have been a lot less MDF dust blown through the shop had I cut most of the curve off on the scrollsaw instead of using the saw to do it all, but all good, I just used my lungs to filter it out. Smart hey? 👍
This might be a dumb question but I'll ask anyway. The splitter is to stop kickback, my understanding is it was supposed to be close to the back of the blade which is why you would need different inserts for different cutting depths. In the video all of your inserts show the splitter being far away from the blade, hence my question-What is the reason for making multiple inserts for different heights if the splitter position doesn't change? Wouldn't a high splitter cover all bases then?
If you are always cutting right through your piece of wood, yes a single splitter _technically_ will work. The problems begin when you decide to cut a groove, or are ripping a piece of wood in multiple passes - if the splitter is higher than the blade but you aren't cutting right through your workpiece, it will block the workpiece and you'll be stuck with nowhere to go. Also, (when you make them in the manner that I show here), the taller the splitter is, the further away from the blade it will be when the blade is at a low height itself. At 5:25, the high blade is close to the splitter, but as I reduce the height, the splitter becomes further and further away. If I used the tallest splitter I had, but set the blade at a low height, there would be a massive gap between the two which makes it kinda pointless. Hence, multiple splitters. :) A proper, built in splitter or riving knife would avoid this, by being adjustable and moving with the blade, but I don't have that, which is why I had to make these. 👍
Great video. I am going to build one. Do you have any updates or feedback especially given that you have been probably using it for a while now? Especially wondering if the MDF inserts are holding up well enough or would you suggest any other material. Thanks and keep sharing your ideas.
Good question. I think it's been about five or six months and I'm still A-OK with the MDF, no cracks, splinters, or anything else that makes me think it's a bad idea, I've even dropped them a few times but they survive. The shortest height insert (around 2cm I think) spends 90% of its time on the saw, the rest of them really only get pulled out when I'm ripping with more blade height, but they're great to have on hand, no excuse for not using them. I want a couple more for angled cuts, one for 45 abs then probably 15 and 30 degrees as well, I'll use MDF for those too. 👍
@@woodfather Thanks for reassuring. Also thanks for sharing that the 2 cm one is the most used. That will be the first one for me then. I am in the US so 2 cm (20mm) is perfect for 3/4" - 19 mm as that is the material size most used.
Excellent introduction on safety as I have 2 strikes against me (2x to ER) & many foul balls (was wearing PPE that protected me)! Oh, by the way, you should have side-shield protection with your glasses. Also, hope they’re rated safety glasses?
2 trips to the ER? Oof, hope no long term damage there :/ Glasses are just regular 'thick as a coke bottle' type lenses for us blind people, plastic, not glass though. If anything hits me fast enough to shatter them, it's going to smash my face up anyway 🤷♂️ Stay safe mate!
I watched this last night, curious why don’t you use the blade guard? I don’t often have it on in my vids but I sure do off camera, the dust it’s a nightmare, but just lately I saw a pic of a woman who had two smashed front teeth from the teeth from the blade coming off! I kid you not 🤯 never thought that was even possible, she was just cutting ply. 😬
Ouch 🙁 The easy answer is, I don't have one. The guard & splitter combo that came with my machine was quite poor quality. I couldn't cut anything without the kickback cawls scratching deep into the wood, the riving knife couldn't be trusted to stay in line with the blade, and attaching it on and off to use a sled or cut a groove was, no joke, 30-40 minutes work. Really poor design. Being younger and dumber I just threw it away. If I could do it over, I would spend the time to improve it instead. I'm starting to draw up a blade guard of my own design which is mounted to the wall/ceiling to try and make things a little more secure.
@@woodfather Much the same as me, my first saw taught me a lot, and some big bruises from kickbacks along the way. It puts me off getting a 2-4 + hp saw! But 10 or so years of no dust extraction/blade guard I have to listen to myself breathing/wheezing these days.
Oof that doesn't sound fun at all. My first saw was awful, the cheapest thing I could afford. Basically was a circular saw mounted to a flimsy sheet of pressed metal, no guards, wobbly table top, no height adjustment, no riving knife, no splitter, etc... Was completely awful, I'm kinda surprised they were allowed to sell it now that I think about it. 😆 So when I upgraded to this saw, not having those safety devices was fine with me, it's all I knew at the time.
It's an SB12 or W452 as sold by Hare & Forbes in Australia. I bought it brand new 10 years ago, I actually have a review on it, but fair warning it was one of my first ever videos! 😆 ruclips.net/video/mSi4qu__tf4/видео.html
@@woodfather yeah looks like the same saw. Basically. Mine was built in 1991 and sold under the brand name Ohio Forge at The Home Depot. It was made in Thailand. I bought it for $50 on Facebook Marketplace. But, your saw has a much better motor, a much better rip fence, and a dust collector. The arbor controls look to have not changed. I find that the arbor tends to fall while I’m doing batch work. So I snap a heavy vise-grip onto the lowest point of the adjustment wheel and that prevents the wheel from turning. I love the saw and I’ve improved it by boxing in the stand to catch sawdust and I put a modern paddle switch on to make it a little safer. Next will add splitter like you have done. Thanks for the guidance.
I have a contractor table saw with a 1/8 inch metal insert, which is square with slightly rounded corners. There are 2 metal fingers on one end and a spring clip on the other The slot is much wider than the carbide blade i am using. I was thinking of using 1/8" masonite glued to 1/4"--1/2" plywood. The hole has a lip that contracts the top only about a 1/4" on the edge. The hardest part is the fingers and spring clip. Any suggestions?
Hmm, the metal fingers, maybe they are like a tab which tucks into the table saw and prevents the insert from lifting up at the back of the blade? That should be easy enough to replicate with either an extra piece of material glued on, or potentially a screw head similar as I do in the video. The spring clip, is that to ensure the insert fits in securely and has no sideways movement? If so, I'd guess that so long as you make the new one to the correct width, you wouldn't need to replace that part of it. Of course, maybe I misunderstand what you actually have in front of you, have a machine model number or photo of what you're working with? Cheers, Mario
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Hello my dear friend.
This is a really good idea. Perfect result with separator. This table saw cover tip is convenient and practical. I have to do it like this. Thank you for your inspiration. Congratulations. Big greetings, best regards.
Thanks mate, it certainly makes some cuts a lot safer, I highly recommend giving it a shot. 👍
@@woodfather Yes you are right. I will try this.
I have a Shopsmith Riving knife somewhere, but recovering from cancer I have not been in my shop for over a year. Now I can spend some time back out there. I was just going to purchase another one, but at around $40 for a piece of metal I have started your process to make three Zero inserts for my Shopsmith Mark V 520. Somewhat complicated, but not something I can't do. Thank you again for your How To video. It is the most simple I have seen.
Great idea, thank you for sharing this! I recently acquired a small Rockwell Beaver table saw from 1963 with minimal clearance behind the blade. This solution will work for me.
From 1963? Wow, piece of history, be safe and have fun!
Thanks for the info, I will be making these up as soon as my finger is working again.
After 40 years of working with power tools, I mulched my finger in the Tablesaw, kick back and no riving knife 😢
Will never use a Tablesaw without one again.
Nicely done Mario 😁. I've been meaning to make some zero inserts for about 2 years now.... but now I've convinced myself I need a new tablesaw... so hopefully I will get all enthusiastic with the new saw and make a few. Great video, stay safe 😁👍🇬🇧
Nothing gets the inspiration going like a new toy, I look forward to seeing what you get up to with it!
Great idea. Thank you for sharing.
Thankyou 🙂
How much fun is woodworking Mario, it allows us to be creative when making something but if we make a blew we can normally fix it up, grouse video mate 🇦🇺🍻👍
Cheers Dirk, no argument from me, loving my time in the shop :)
Great job,very easy to follow.
Cheers Rod, much appreciated 👍
Nice job shooting the video ! Thanks for the tips . Happy 2021 !
Thanks Robert, much appreciated, happy 2021 to you too!
Thanks Mario for this great video.
Glad you enjoyed it
Hi Mario! I found your channel from recommedions from Mark Dainer, Dirk, Chris and many others. I'm currently restoring an old Wadkin tablesaw and need to make a new insert, so this was really helpful. Looking forward to many more tips on your channel. Cheers from Denmark
Welcome aboard man! Good to have you here!
@@woodfather Thanks 🙏
Great video mate. Safety first!
Absolutely, it's such a small and easy project that it makes no sense to not just do it.
Of course, it took me over 3 years to do it so maybe I shouldn't talk, but, still. 😃
Great video mate. Safety has to be the most important thing in the workshop, you only get one set of fingers :D
Damn straight!
thank you good video
Cheers Stan!
Good well explained video Mario, at some stage can you do a follow up on your bandsaw project, I realise the plans are available but you didn't do a part 4 video on finishing it.
Hi Ralph, I hate to say it, but I never completed the project! It's still sitting in my shop, I had a little hiatus from woodworking and haven't gotten back there yet. My plan is to get back into it by the end of the year though, I'm keen to see how it works.
Dude. Brilliant. Thanks for sharing.
I forgot to mention that my tablesaw is a 1956 Sears Craftsman I got from my grandfather. Custom inserts like yours are the answer I've been looking for. Thanks again.
@@larrypayne5947 From 1956 and still going strong? Amazing stuff! Stay safe mate! 👍👍
Nice Mario. Raising the blade to create the curved section is not something that came to mind right away. Which is wierd as that's how you create any other zero clearance plate 😅
Hah, in hindsight, there would have been a lot less MDF dust blown through the shop had I cut most of the curve off on the scrollsaw instead of using the saw to do it all, but all good, I just used my lungs to filter it out. Smart hey? 👍
Love it! Keep it up.
Cheers Bryan, will do 😄
This might be a dumb question but I'll ask anyway.
The splitter is to stop kickback, my understanding is it was supposed to be close to the back of the blade which is why you would need different inserts for different cutting depths. In the video all of your inserts show the splitter being far away from the blade, hence my question-What is the reason for making multiple inserts for different heights if the splitter position doesn't change? Wouldn't a high splitter cover all bases then?
If you are always cutting right through your piece of wood, yes a single splitter _technically_ will work. The problems begin when you decide to cut a groove, or are ripping a piece of wood in multiple passes - if the splitter is higher than the blade but you aren't cutting right through your workpiece, it will block the workpiece and you'll be stuck with nowhere to go. Also, (when you make them in the manner that I show here), the taller the splitter is, the further away from the blade it will be when the blade is at a low height itself. At 5:25, the high blade is close to the splitter, but as I reduce the height, the splitter becomes further and further away. If I used the tallest splitter I had, but set the blade at a low height, there would be a massive gap between the two which makes it kinda pointless. Hence, multiple splitters. :)
A proper, built in splitter or riving knife would avoid this, by being adjustable and moving with the blade, but I don't have that, which is why I had to make these. 👍
Great video. I am going to build one. Do you have any updates or feedback especially given that you have been probably using it for a while now? Especially wondering if the MDF inserts are holding up well enough or would you suggest any other material. Thanks and keep sharing your ideas.
Good question. I think it's been about five or six months and I'm still A-OK with the MDF, no cracks, splinters, or anything else that makes me think it's a bad idea, I've even dropped them a few times but they survive. The shortest height insert (around 2cm I think) spends 90% of its time on the saw, the rest of them really only get pulled out when I'm ripping with more blade height, but they're great to have on hand, no excuse for not using them.
I want a couple more for angled cuts, one for 45 abs then probably 15 and 30 degrees as well, I'll use MDF for those too. 👍
@@woodfather Thanks for reassuring. Also thanks for sharing that the 2 cm one is the most used. That will be the first one for me then. I am in the US so 2 cm (20mm) is perfect for 3/4" - 19 mm as that is the material size most used.
Have you done a video on the angle cut ones this is my next job
Excellent introduction on safety as I have 2 strikes against me (2x to ER) & many foul balls (was wearing PPE that protected me)! Oh, by the way, you should have side-shield protection with your glasses. Also, hope they’re rated safety glasses?
2 trips to the ER? Oof, hope no long term damage there :/
Glasses are just regular 'thick as a coke bottle' type lenses for us blind people, plastic, not glass though. If anything hits me fast enough to shatter them, it's going to smash my face up anyway 🤷♂️ Stay safe mate!
I watched this last night, curious why don’t you use the blade guard? I don’t often have it on in my vids but I sure do off camera, the dust it’s a nightmare, but just lately I saw a pic of a woman who had two smashed front teeth from the teeth from the blade coming off! I kid you not 🤯 never thought that was even possible, she was just cutting ply. 😬
Ouch 🙁
The easy answer is, I don't have one. The guard & splitter combo that came with my machine was quite poor quality. I couldn't cut anything without the kickback cawls scratching deep into the wood, the riving knife couldn't be trusted to stay in line with the blade, and attaching it on and off to use a sled or cut a groove was, no joke, 30-40 minutes work. Really poor design. Being younger and dumber I just threw it away. If I could do it over, I would spend the time to improve it instead. I'm starting to draw up a blade guard of my own design which is mounted to the wall/ceiling to try and make things a little more secure.
@@woodfather Much the same as me, my first saw taught me a lot, and some big bruises from kickbacks along the way. It puts me off getting a 2-4 + hp saw! But 10 or so years of no dust extraction/blade guard I have to listen to myself breathing/wheezing these days.
Oof that doesn't sound fun at all.
My first saw was awful, the cheapest thing I could afford. Basically was a circular saw mounted to a flimsy sheet of pressed metal, no guards, wobbly table top, no height adjustment, no riving knife, no splitter, etc... Was completely awful, I'm kinda surprised they were allowed to sell it now that I think about it. 😆
So when I upgraded to this saw, not having those safety devices was fine with me, it's all I knew at the time.
Hey Woodfather. What sort of table saw do you have? It looks just like mine, which is ancient. Cheers.
It's an SB12 or W452 as sold by Hare & Forbes in Australia. I bought it brand new 10 years ago, I actually have a review on it, but fair warning it was one of my first ever videos! 😆 ruclips.net/video/mSi4qu__tf4/видео.html
@@woodfather yeah looks like the same saw. Basically. Mine was built in 1991 and sold under the brand name Ohio Forge at The Home Depot. It was made in Thailand. I bought it for $50 on Facebook Marketplace. But, your saw has a much better motor, a much better rip fence, and a dust collector. The arbor controls look to have not changed. I find that the arbor tends to fall while I’m doing batch work. So I snap a heavy vise-grip onto the lowest point of the adjustment wheel and that prevents the wheel from turning. I love the saw and I’ve improved it by boxing in the stand to catch sawdust and I put a modern paddle switch on to make it a little safer. Next will add splitter like you have done. Thanks for the guidance.
*Taiwan. Sorry. Not Thailand.
I have a contractor table saw with a 1/8 inch metal insert, which is square with slightly rounded corners. There are 2 metal fingers on one end and a spring clip on the other The slot is much wider than the carbide blade i am using. I was thinking of using 1/8" masonite glued to 1/4"--1/2" plywood. The hole has a lip that contracts the top only about a 1/4" on the edge. The hardest part is the fingers and spring clip. Any suggestions?
Hmm, the metal fingers, maybe they are like a tab which tucks into the table saw and prevents the insert from lifting up at the back of the blade? That should be easy enough to replicate with either an extra piece of material glued on, or potentially a screw head similar as I do in the video. The spring clip, is that to ensure the insert fits in securely and has no sideways movement? If so, I'd guess that so long as you make the new one to the correct width, you wouldn't need to replace that part of it. Of course, maybe I misunderstand what you actually have in front of you, have a machine model number or photo of what you're working with? Cheers, Mario