Love your rebar vertical and horizontal anchors that are embedded in the concrete--very clever. Also like your level lines and sound-level indicator. And I have a 14 yr old Black Labrador who has a grey beard too and just a happy soul, so your dog just makes your video extra special for me--so don't worry if he's included in your videos, I consider it a bonus!
Excellent description of aim and purpose of his direction and how he gets there, good lighting for video ,clean site, skill level is good and average for many that it is the typical DIY 'ers. Thanks for doing the video, it is encouragement for me, and hopefully others.
Tip for digging out holes with a machine mounted auger, if you can disengage a PTO powered one, dig in then stop the spin and lift out, carefully drive to a distant spot out of the way and dump, then go back push the tailings in and dig more as needed and repeat stopping auger and dumping into pile a distance away, makes for less cleaning out using the manual post hole digger. Also lay a footer pad or cookie at the bottom if you dig 4 inches extra to spread the load out in case of water saturation if you get flood or heavy rains and distribute the building load into the ground over a wider area, it also acts like a uplift protector if you use two bent pieces of rebar sunk into the foot leading into the pier form, might want to remove the form after and backfill with some of the excavated dirt, the concrete surface doubles as a friction pile in lieu of the footer as uplift prevention. If your going larger in width and longer in length, Simpson strongtie brackets may not be enough, other options are Midwest Permacolumn precast concrete columns and their wet/dry (drill) set anchor brackets, or Strong Way System own bracket with precast height adjust-ability and the rebar and foot pad both anchor it into a non or partial tube (top one or two foot with tube form) formed pier footer again you can place a wider base of 4 to 6 inches thick wider footer cookie on these systems. Or if you prefer to set the post foot into concrete if not just dirt or gravel, look into using Plasti-Sleeve bases and a through bolt or rebar through to anchor the post into the concrete, this sleeve can be sealed at the top to the post to keep to much water from getting in and prolongs the post life even if pretreated.
I was wondering if the metal square on the strong tie isn't supposed to sit a little higher to keep the bottom off the wood posts away from standing water?
Thank you getting ready to go on a cover of mine I like your setup with the rebar hold down. The only thing missing is a strong seventeen-year-old to dig the holes for me. You know what they say old age is not for sissies. Thanks again
Did you make a video on how to use that level? If you have I couldnt find it. Need to build a large garage and never used one- would really appreciate it.
did anyone notice the thing he stuck into the concrete the 2 bars were not installed the ways he showed us. they didn't connect. but anyways nice vid. keep it up.
I was wondering what happened to Jonathan Winters. It's nice to know he's found another vocation after his stint as a comedian didn't quite pan out. Good for you, sir. I, for one, thought you were funny as hell. I loved your role in "It's a Mad, Mad, Mad, Mad World". Saw it half a dozen times and laughed my ass off every time.
Yes, if local building inspectors will let you get away with it. You'd also need to check the frost depth in your area and adjust the depth of piers and plumbing accordingly.
Thanks for the informative demonstration. I will be building a 40x40 pole barn this fall using sono tubes to keep the fir poles above grade. Do you have a video of the poles and header beams going up?
depth is determined by front line in every region-area, not waterline, if you got water saturation issues in your soil and property then you may want to think of installing a drainage tube system, unless its relatively flat ground in your region, then there is not much you can do but adhere to local code as recommended or required
I'm curious, why not just dig the holes about 4 feet and put a 6 inch concrete pad at the bottom, then stick the post in the hole and fill in the rest with concrete. You don't need to level the bottom of the posts this way, you just cut the tops to level once you're done.
Some regions where the frost level is deep, buying with concrete will not last that long. The ground expansion causes the concrete to crack, which leaves a place of water to sit, refreeze to increase the cracks, catch more standing water, etc., etc. This way the posts will stay drier and last longer.
Richard Lawson not required where I live, (for a pole barn) what good is a permit you gonna let an inspector , say if it's well built , most inspectors have never even worked in the trades, most places inspectors have kin that are in an elective office and that's how they got the job.study up know what is right and do like this man and build it yourself
Love your rebar vertical and horizontal anchors that are embedded in the concrete--very clever. Also like your level lines and sound-level indicator. And I have a 14 yr old Black Labrador who has a grey beard too and just a happy soul, so your dog just makes your video extra special for me--so don't worry if he's included in your videos, I consider it a bonus!
Excellent description of aim and purpose of his direction and how he gets there, good lighting for video ,clean site, skill level is good and average for many that it is the typical DIY 'ers. Thanks for doing the video, it is encouragement for me, and hopefully others.
Dog is having a great time back there 🤣
Love the dog in the background trying to steal the show!! LOL
Tip for digging out holes with a machine mounted auger, if you can disengage a PTO powered one, dig in then stop the spin and lift out, carefully drive to a distant spot out of the way and dump, then go back push the tailings in and dig more as needed and repeat stopping auger and dumping into pile a distance away, makes for less cleaning out using the manual post hole digger.
Also lay a footer pad or cookie at the bottom if you dig 4 inches extra to spread the load out in case of water saturation if you get flood or heavy rains and distribute the building load into the ground over a wider area, it also acts like a uplift protector if you use two bent pieces of rebar sunk into the foot leading into the pier form, might want to remove the form after and backfill with some of the excavated dirt, the concrete surface doubles as a friction pile in lieu of the footer as uplift prevention.
If your going larger in width and longer in length, Simpson strongtie brackets may not be enough, other options are Midwest Permacolumn precast concrete columns and their wet/dry (drill) set anchor brackets, or Strong Way System own bracket with precast height adjust-ability and the rebar and foot pad both anchor it into a non or partial tube (top one or two foot with tube form) formed pier footer again you can place a wider base of 4 to 6 inches thick wider footer cookie on these systems.
Or if you prefer to set the post foot into concrete if not just dirt or gravel, look into using Plasti-Sleeve bases and a through bolt or rebar through to anchor the post into the concrete, this sleeve can be sealed at the top to the post to keep to much water from getting in and prolongs the post life even if pretreated.
That dog is having a great life 😂 that laser level is a nice trick!
pay attention. this man is a genius
I was wondering if the metal square on the strong tie isn't supposed to sit a little higher to keep the bottom off the wood posts away from standing water?
That dog is having a good time!
Great video! Best part, the dog.
Excuse me, what's the name of your device? 6:50
thanks man , i finally found the name of that thing, 'post base'😁😁
Thank you getting ready to go on a cover of mine I like your setup with the rebar hold down. The only thing missing is a strong seventeen-year-old to dig the holes for me. You know what they say old age is not for sissies. Thanks again
Buen trabajo lo are, saludos desde colombia.
what is the name of that level system you have there? Great video!
LOL The dog in the background is "video bombing" cute.
I saw the dog too!! Lol.
Im glad im not the only one who has to redig I thought i just sucked at squaring footers up
Did you make a video on how to use that level? If you have I couldnt find it. Need to build a large garage and never used one- would really appreciate it.
did anyone notice the thing he stuck into the concrete the 2 bars were not installed the ways he showed us. they didn't connect. but anyways nice vid. keep it up.
Whats the # of the strong tie, or do you have a link on where I can buy. Thanks!
How am I supposed to pay attention to what you're saying when your dog is absolutely loving life right behind you?
How did you figure how far out of the ground the sono tube had to be?
great video thanks for the tips!!
I was wondering what happened to Jonathan Winters. It's nice to know he's found another vocation after his stint as a comedian didn't quite pan out. Good for you, sir. I, for one, thought you were funny as hell. I loved your role in "It's a Mad, Mad, Mad, Mad World". Saw it half a dozen times and laughed my ass off every time.
Thank You! I was looking for tool bag comments but this took me by surprise!
Can I use this kind of foundation to built a small 2 story home out of my detached garage here in Salem, Oregon ?
Yes, if local building inspectors will let you get away with it. You'd also need to check the frost depth in your area and adjust the depth of piers and plumbing accordingly.
Your dog is stealing the show
Thanks for the informative demonstration. I will be building a 40x40 pole barn this fall using sono tubes to keep the fir poles above grade. Do you have a video of the poles and header beams going up?
Did you place any rebar in the piers? If ya didn’t your piers will crumble apart in years to come.
Never mind...found it! Thanks again.
great job!
What's the distance of the peirs ?
No footings?
where did you get the metal brackets? what are they called?
It's in the description.
Why only 2 ft down? Frost is atleast 4ft down
Oklahoma doesn't get that cold. 2ft is building code requirement.
Very helpful, thank-you!
Did you place any gravel beneath the tube prior to adding concrete mix ? Also, is the depth determined by the "water line" of your area ?
depth is determined by front line in every region-area, not waterline, if you got water saturation issues in your soil and property then you may want to think of installing a drainage tube system, unless its relatively flat ground in your region, then there is not much you can do but adhere to local code as recommended or required
Typo in the comment above. Should say frost line, not front line. Otherwise good info. 😊
What the name of level you are using
Dewalt
Well done! Thank you for sharing. Save your back rent or buy a mixer. Be safe.
Hey instead of paying big money for those post forms can you use pvc pipe with slip
They aren't expensive.
He's buying one 4-foot sono tubes and cutting it in half, so they don't cost much. They're much cheaper than a 12-inch diameter PVC pipe.
I'm curious, why not just dig the holes about 4 feet and put a 6 inch concrete pad at the bottom, then stick the post in the hole and fill in the rest with concrete. You don't need to level the bottom of the posts this way, you just cut the tops to level once you're done.
Some regions where the frost level is deep, buying with concrete will not last that long. The ground expansion causes the concrete to crack, which leaves a place of water to sit, refreeze to increase the cracks, catch more standing water, etc., etc. This way the posts will stay drier and last longer.
great
Man, if I had to pour all that concrete I would have at least rented a portable mixer...
them mixers beat wrecking your arms and suffering for a day or two and are faster than mixing by hand
forget to hook the bar when you sunk it dude
never seen an L anchor? the j hook is bit stronger
Take your bags off!
Don't see your permit. Won't build w/o one.
Richard Lawson not required where I live, (for a pole barn) what good is a permit you gonna let an inspector , say if it's well built , most inspectors have never even worked in the trades, most places inspectors have kin that are in an elective office and that's how they got the job.study up know what is right and do like this man and build it yourself
Too much explaining, rambling.
Mark W then go watch another video.
Nope. Explanation was good since he covered a lot in each short video.
great