After much trial and error the ignition system finally works perfectly. I was having issues with the engine backfiring and sheering the flywheel pin, Thinking it through I took the ABS sensor and replaced it with a Magnetic Pickup MPU Speed Sensor it has allowed the engine to run normally at high RPM, The ABS sensor somehow limited the RPM's and would through the timing off making it backfire . some thing to consider it you can not give full throttle without it backfiring or per-igniting. Now it runs smooth and has no problems what-so-ever going from idle to full throttle or from pulling heavy loads. Oh yeah this is on the HH160 I have 2 Tecumseh motors and 3 Bolens tractors the OH160 is fine. Tecumseh is one strong engine! Again thanks for saving mine from the scrap pile or the decomposing pile as my buddy calls it.
Thank you for supplying this information. It sounds like the sensor you used has better pick up to trigger response to the coil than the ABS sensor. What is the MPU sensor off you used if you would let us know that are running the ABS sensors.
Man I've been collecting these old engines for ever just for the usefulness of them. Parts are getting hard to come by; being 65 years old this just opened up a whole new world of tinkering. Thank you!
That was very interesting, I recognize some of the parts. Thank you for passing on the information that you had received from another fellow. You were fortunate to know him. I wished I could have met him. Thanks again for your interesting video.
Updater on this ignition, I installed the right ABS sensor and it fired up first turn of the key! OMG! It runs better than it EVER has! Thank you so much for this video without you My Tecumseh would be scrap! It is so utterly cool now, Hank the Tank Lives again! You truly are a genius!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience. I am no mechanic by no means but am not afraid to try something. I have a 1966 Colt 2310 garden tractor that has the Tecumseh HH100 engine. I will be using this to try and get it running.
Very cool, I have an old mini msd box I got off an old tractor. I had to see what was inside of course. I opened it up and there was a gm hei module in there. That was it. Nice video
If you use a battery-style ignition switch, you can replace the broken ignition switch and get rid of that extra switch as well! I'm fixing up an old Bolens with an OH140, if the ignition swap works I'll have a great engine!
Working on this right now for my Tecumseh 0H160 I did not get any spark from the first try ( I used an ABS sensor I had ) turns out that the sensor was not working, I have the one you stated in the video ordered and will be here soon. Hope it works because getting a NEW engine will cost a few thousand bucks and I really like the looks of this one and would hate to see it trashed because it does run and is in great shape other than the electrical system that took out the ignition system.
The last magnet on the flywheel is the trigger. Position a pickup over it as moving it forward or back 3/8" to find good timing. I would say use a timing light before, but no spark, no light. The pickup has to produce 450mV to trigger the GM ignition module has a protect power switch transistor the keeps the coils primary on. Once open by signal, field collapses and sparks. A battery is required. Those with starters have batteries. Under the flywheel is a stator, diodes and magnets to create alternator to charge battery. Diodes are one way gates, Digital multi meter has diode setting or ohms can work. Open one way, thru voltage the other. Delco created a simple module used on Mercury V6 & V8, but used the two input wires to monitor speed. This caused advanced. Normally, timing is retarded to start the engine, fine. But this limits how fast RPM's go. The V6 has a higher advance circuit than V8. Grab one and adjust the carb & throttle. High or main jetting to larger size. A torch wire cleaning kit can help measure before enlarging. Now (Caution) as not only 4-stoke engines with oil in crankcase has a limit on angles like sideways on a hill. Oil moves to one side, the engine get air, not oil. Many are 30 degrees. Same with speed as wrist pin, rod and crank will flex. Springs on valves will not close as fast, this is valve float. No reason to exceed this unless you are racing your rider! Safe repairs & mowing.
@@will7its All I/O's, not outboards. Mercruiser changed their name to Mercury & no clue why. As service manager I have outboard mechanics, and a few on just out everything. One was the only tech in his Dads small dealer, but I considered the best. Will timing lights are not common, but with tach in one hand & timing light in other, at 1k RPM, 2,5k RPM, 3k RPM, the advance was quicker and higher that a V8. These were 97-2000 boats even though the engine could be older or newer. These GM engines have serial numbers for getting the correct parts and theft. Remember the primary side of the ignition coil in on all the time with key on. The power switching transistor (N-type MOSFET) and fires when off as magnetic field collapses, then spark. I am sure load testing on a dynamometer before finding a sweet spot for torque. Working on HEI after 72, but EFI in 76 on two cars (76 Cadillac Seville w/350, Bendix Bank Fire) and (76 Datsun 280Z, 6 cylinders but 7 injectors. #7 was controlled by a "Thermal-Time" switch that screwed into the coolant jacket / acted as choke) This ignition module creates heat and requires a heat transfer paste under it on flat area otherwise it will fail fast. Best of luck.
@@arturochavez3134 I used a small piece of angle iron to mount the sensor then if I remember correctly I bolted the HEI module to the side of the tins. I sold the tractor so I cannot see it to verify.
I did what the video showed and had miss-firing and the engine ran very poorly. So, out with the timing light and found that the spark was jumping all over the place. I was a mechanic for 40 years and now retired. So, the next step was to cut off the shorter second firing pin but that didn't help. What to do next. I checked on-line and found EMI = Electro Magnetic Interference. My son is an electrical engineer for Motorola and suggested that I use coaxle cable to help since the coil puts out high voltage and might be affecting the wire from the magnetic sensor to the module. Sure enough after hooking up coaxle cable from the sensor to the module - everything is perfect (you must ground the outer body shielding wires of the cable). The engine runs at high rpm - idles like a dream and checking with the timing light, the spark is dead on an not jumpy. Another youtube video thought that it needed a higher RPM module - that is quite silly because a good old GM module is good for very high RPM and my engine had a jumpy spark even at an idle. Also widening the gap on the magnetic sensor helps. - - Don
Great comments. I found my sensor was bad. It wouldn't open. Replaced it and things worked out. Question..... OH120, looking for a number to replace the Walbro LMR carb. on a other tractor.
I purchased the parts and tried this system with my OH160 on a Miller blue star 2E. Now I have spark but it's having issues where it runs a little hard and missfires. If you have any tips they would be appreciated :)
Glad I could help! Please check out this restoration that has got started this year on this tractor. There is going to be some cool stuff I do with this engine as well.
Great video just picked up a sears gt14 with solid state and while it does run I wanna be prepared to keep it running saw lots of form posts that showed the ideas but having a explanation in video form helps alot more
Think of those 2 pins as a switch.That has to turn the spark on and off in the relation of the theory of how a 4 cycle internal combustion engine operate.
Just a little info for ya. HEI module is great for being compact, but Ford Duraspark II has variable dwell to really help with that advancing the timing. Food for thought. Looks great. I'd probably consider trying to use an HEI coil to boot. Nice powerful spark. Thanks for sharing this.
I purchased the parts and tried this system with my OH160 on a Miller blue star 2E. Now I have spark but it's having issues where it runs a little hard and missfires. If you have any tips they would be appreciated :)
@@bernardomeza7541 Sounds like the timing is a little off. May have to adjust the pickup from one side or the other to bring it in. Also check the gap between the pickup and the trigger. It's usually around .010"
@@bernardomeza7541 I did this on mine but I use the points so same problem this module don't have the advance so probably the second pin it's for the advance
Thank you for sharing this information! You really made my day. I didn’t know what I was going to do to get my old miller welder working again. Now I can fix it with parts I have laying around my shop except for the sensor and pig tail. Thank you thank you thank you
I have never seen a Van Norman Rotary Broach that small. I used to use a "normal" sized one for planing cylinder heads, block decks and intake manifolds when I worked at an automotive machine shop. Great machines.
You are a genius I'm hoping you can help me I have what I think is an SS 12 With a Tecumseh solid State ignition engine but I do not see triggering pins in the flywheel Any advice would be appreciated I would much prefer your setup than gambling on eBay Thanks,
You probably have the HH120 engine. Some had trigger pins, some did not. You can use a flywheel from a HH100 or HH120 to run the trigger pin set up. Just check the weight differences between the flywheel you are taking off to one you are putting on for engine balancing.
I thought your presentation was very informational. I have several of these old engines in various tractors. And have wondered what I was going to do and they finally gave up. Also I like your attitude about the customer in the sentiment. I'm a 60 + year old guy myself and still remember my grandfather in the phone this I had for his equipment. So good on you and keep it up
That is awesome i have a 16 hp overhead valve techumseh in a ss 16 suburban Sears tractor and the coil is bad. I'm going to try this !!! Thanks a lot !!!
That is very cool, thanks. NOW the 3 wires for the charging system, all I have is a one over 2 plastic connector from the stator, what do I need to charge the battery? thanks.
You are going to have to get you a Kohler voltage regulator rectifier. You should have 3 wires coming off your plug from the stator. 2 that are AC voltage and one that is magneto kill. To charge the battery, you need to take the AC from the stator and turn it to DC. That is what the regulator will do. I will be doing an update on this video because I am putting this tractor back together as we speak.
I just went ahead and got the used ignition module. It runs like a new one. I'm sorry I can't be of help with the conversion parts. Good luck with your system.
My local JD dealer would not even take a look at my machine and told me that the coil was obsolete, maybe I could find used parts on the internet. "WRONG" I got the parts as described for about $85 online and used scrap aluminum pieces for mounting plates. It was easy to do and has a very strong spark. Thank you for this information.
Shaw , I installed parts as per your video. Starts and runs again, very happy about that. I was hoping you made video of how you wired an original new switch. Also what part number switch since eliminating solid state. In using my old original switch , won,t shut off engine. Again Thanks for this video.
As I am putting this tractor back together from the restoration. I have video's on this about the progress. I will be doing a follow up on this and the finishing touches to it. Make sure you subscribe to get notifications on this build. As for the shutting off, you just need to run a wire from the keyswitch to shut the 12V power supply off of the coil. You can use either a 5 or 6 blade keyswitch.
Excuse my ignorance ,how did you start /fire it up .by the toggle switch?I understand how moat of this works but how does it tie in with ignition switch or is toggle switch replacement for ignition switch
This tractor is now completed since the video was filmed. Back then all the toggle switch did was send battery voltage to the coil to start it. We rewired the tractor since it was restored to where it all runs off a 5 pin keyswitch. There are some videos of the finished tractor in my playlist.
How did you determine the location of the pickup in relation to the timing. The tall trigger pin I assume is Top dead center but how did you determine when the exact time the pickup would trigger and index it correctly
Hey Shaw, IMPORTANT QUESTION: Any chance you can tell us guys that have solid state ignition (no dowel pins) that want to convert over, where to drill for the long dowel pin hole in reference for the keyway. I have a 68 HH120 that I want to get functional and freshen up for my sister as it was my parents from when I was little. I was thinking using the calipers lower jaws with one in the keyway (against the side closet to the dowel pin) and the other jaw would be touching the outside of the flywheel and then using a fabric tape measure, measure from the edge of the caliper to the center of the longest dowel pin. I don't think the measurement to the shorter one is important (not sure it's function) but if you wanted that measurement could be recorded too. I have scoured the internet and tore two tractors (friends) down to find out they didn't have any dowel pins either, ugggh. Anyways, GREAT VIDEO!!!! You remind me of a friends dad when I was growing up, he ALWAYS thought outside the box and his favorite question was "Why won't it work?" Dave
Thanks for watching! Drilling flywheels for pins that dont have them is tricky. I dont have a 100% accurate way to do it. I am still playing around with that one.
Shaws Garage Hi guys, I also have a non-pined flywheel! Have you found a precise way to drill the flywheel at the right spot? How many degrees it need to be before or after tdc? Thanks in advance! Any help will be awesome!
Well it almost doesn't matter where the trigger or pickup are on the flywheel circumference. As long as they meet at the specified deg of ignition In relation to TDC. As far as initial timing goes. But for advanced timing if its supposed to have that. The figure out what the total advance timing is supposed to be in deg. Then measure your flywheel diameter and divide by 360 for inches per degree and then stab the advance pin in based on that.
ok soo you can take the old ignition module cut it down mount the pulse signal unit to it . it will have perfect drilled holes for moutning and be adjustable.
Nice video. I have some videos doing the same thing on some 1970ish single cylinder Onan NB engines. Does you sensor ignore the short nub on the flywheel ? I think the OEM module used the shirt nub so change the timing on startup....
After doing this conversion on my 1975 16hp Sears tractor, it seems to run just fine, but now it wants to overcharge the battery after setting it at high RPM. Amp Gauge Go's max and ignition switch wants to start on fire 🔥 😂. The tractor has a new voltage regulator. Didn't do this until I changed the ignition. What's up with that? Any help please 🙏.
I have seen many "new" voltage regulators be defective. Especially China made regs. I use the OEM Kohler 3 terminal reg on my HH100 . At 3400 rpm puts out 13.4 volts. This is a good area to be at because at idle to mid throttle, it ranges between 12.9 to 13.2 volts.
That is really cool I am wondering about timing you have to adjust for that or check it somehow or is it close enough just being in the center of The mounting bolts
Put it straight up. It doesn't matter on position of sensor because.... keep in mind there is no centrifugal mechanical or vacuum advance in this system.Just be sure the flywheel key is good and not starting to sheer. And you have no more than a .010 air gap.
This is probably why many of these aren’t around hardly anymore. When that coil fails it gets scrapped. I was lucky, & got 1 that does run but since I knew abt this already I just put a different motor on it, & at the time I was tired of fixing these old engines. Not charging, dead battery, & the constant fight, vs just putting a predator on it and setting the old engine aside for a project. I’m contemplating on doing this to my OH160 that does run good, the old coil works but I might as well just do the conversion cuz it’s a ticking time bomb when it stops sparking. By the time I fix the engine I’ll have as much into it for wiring and parts vs just using one of my Kohler K-series engines thats better or my M18 thats been waiting for a tractor. Turns over good, feels good & tight. Needs a coil, and a carb to run hopefully not a starter. I’ll probably find something fun for the OH160. Good engines, just wished they used the magneto instead of that.
Great video! I have a question does the mounting location of the ABS sensor change timing if it’s moved L to R? Did you just guesstimate general location as to where the original SSI trigger pin sat? Thanks
@@bernardomeza7541 I googled RUclips Hh120 ignition. Forgot the site but he has a yellow tractor. The best I found. And mine works great. I used a 1" angle aluminum. Made it easier to make mounting slots for adjusting sensor gap
I do not remember the exact part number. The sensor I used is off a 1999 Ford F150 truck. The way I checked the timing is I adjusted the sensor to where I Iiked how it started. There is a video of this tractor when I completed it this year, and I am driving it. You can see in the video that the tractor runs excellent and doesn't miss a beat. Just make sure your crank pin heights are correct before you do anything. The tall one should be .250 and the short .187.
dumb question but the pins on the flywheel are they magnetic? or just steel studs? want to do similar thing for my Wisconsin 10hp but the flywheel has the steal or magnets behind the flywheel. But it would be easier to adjust like your set up.
I was given a 1970 st 12 hp tecumseh sears suburban with deck. Restoring this milestone dinosaur everything was cheap till I got to the engine Yep cast iron solid state ignition ......87pounds of oh hell yes I'm heavy and I'm gonna be a freaking nightmare.......Well it sits all rebuilt from new crank to piston to head new valves everything redone got all that ugly yellow burnt paint off.now it's a beautiful no paint motor.the only down side is the ignition.ive been messing with this for 3 yrs and your idea is ok just have to upgrade the h.i.e module to an excel because at high rpm mine backfires so this motor sits on a log splitter does a great job because I couldn't get the charging system to work properly.so I took the second pulley in and ran it to an alternator.and then to a voltage regulator then to the battery works like a charm at any rpm .........what happens to the tractor I took the mower deck off sold it fairly added a 40hp briggs o h v V twin and made one bad pulling tractor out of it I'm in the unlimited class and she pulls wonderful.just to let you know.
Thanks for watching! Be sure to like and subscribe. I have started the restoration on this Sears and you will be able to get notifications of this project. Very excited about this one.
any chance you can tell me where the 2 pins on the flyweel are located at? im assuming one is at tdc but where does the other one go? to the right or left of tdc? at what degree. i could really use that input.thanks
I have decided to do a follow up video on this, due to I have been getting so many questions about this. It will be easier if I explain with references in another video. You are correct the 1 pin is TDC and the 2nd pin is spark advance.
Does it matter what hei ignition system u use like does it back fire at high rpm say above 2000 or is just a generic hei system from the parts store ok
I just purchased a tractor in which the previous owner did this modification very poorly. (By poorly I mean the bracket is an angle iron with misaligned holes and washers to create the air gap. I did my best to re-align it and it runs now, but only at high rpm. The engine doesnt not start easy and backfires. Will only run at high RPM where the momentum forces the motor in the right direction i guess? So my question is: How do you set the timing with this setup? Also why do you need the 12v switch? Why can't you just use the 12v run position on the ignition switch? Lastly according to the previous owner, this mod stopped the battery from charging properly and the battery will eventually die and so will the engine. Any help would be appreciated.
hey i have one of those but it has points and a big magneto...do u think i could do this and make it work using the big magnet on the flywheel instead of the 2 dowels thay are in the video
Jeremiah I haven't tried that on that type of system. I would be curious if it would work myself. It would be a good trial test to see if it does. Give it a shot and if it works show us how you did it.
Do you have a parts list with part #s for each part? I went to a parts store this morning said he needed part numbers because the ignition mod needs to be more specific Thanks Dean
Sorry I do not have a parts list. If you go to the parts store and tell them you need a Ignition module for a 79 chevy malibu with a 305 or a 267 V8. It is impossible for them to get it wrong, Same as the rear wheel ABS sensor for, that is for a 99 F150 Extended cab.
The pin should not be magnetized. You need to verify if the sensor is working and isnt defective, you need to hook up a ohm meter and when the pin is under the sensor you should have some resistance.
Is there a way you can put a kit together or get me a list of PNs? I got a 66-74 JD 112 with the tecumsah from my grandpa who has passed away and I’m going through it. Trying to find video on lash adjustments too, but not having any luck.
I'm looking to convert two HH70's and wondering what the electronic ignition options are. Any ideas by chance other than this or other options with this method to look out for? Man, this will be nice to know to keep on my mind when I'm out at the salvage yard next. Thanks for sharing!
I did at 1st, which is why you make the sensor adjustable in the bracket that supports it. It was time-consuming to get it right. I actually had to move mine 3 times to get it right. If you see the video of the completed tractor in the playlist on the channel with me running and driving it, you can see mine does not miss a beat.
Hey shaw. How can a person keep it all AC Current for firing the engine? I mean, Where can a person get a module for AC? For example: You have all three of the parts in a 610748, 610855 and 610906. They are a MAGNETIC PICK UP, A TRANSFORMER (We will Call that a spark plug coil) and a Module. A person Could keep it all AC by using the 610760 Transformer (Coil) . a Finer magnetic Pick up from a electric guitar and wherever to get the AC module. The reason You cannot use the two pole one wire coming from the stator is because the two poles on the stator make AC current. All the rest on that stator generates AC current as well but they are separate from one another because the other ones go to regulator to be switched over to 12v. The Two pole one wire runs up to the module inside the coil pack and the other wire coming off that two pole goes to the M on the ignition switch to kill the Two pole juice so that it does not travel anymore juice up that tiny wire to the module inside of Original Coil pack (610748 Original to that engine You have here in video). Should never throw them kind of units out because the Transformer inside of them could still be good or possibly even the module in it is good and the transformer is bad. Could always take two and make one. I know what You are thinking. lol. There are two You can get apart fairly easy and two that You cannot on the 748, 855 and 906. Two that were made was one with Red Rubber and black rubber. The other two that wont come apart no matter what You do is Cream color epoxy and black epoxy. Sometimes people twist that dang post on the SSI unit as well and dont even notice when they did it which will cause it to break that tiny wire thats soldered on to the post. I have repaired on like that before. Yea. If You happen to know of a module holla. lol. Thanks.
so I got all of mine same way and i get spark but wont run. does it matter where i mounted the sensor? i see it flashing but no start also do i need a second pin? i have a Wisconsin tr10 and i have no pins. i put a small magnet at the spot between the orginal 2 magnets. but on top of the flyweel ,the orginal magnets where inside the flywheel. is that correct or should i be putting my magnet at the orginal timing mark on flywheel? but thats not where the orginal magnets went. sorry im confused and really like to get it running
This video is for the Tecumseh HH100 engine that already has the timing trigger pins from the factory. I personally have not done this on a Wisconsin engine. But where I would start is, determine where the true TDC is on the engine. That can be done with a magnetic base stand and dial indicator that goes on the block. Then I would look into if I could drill a hole in the flywheel to put a pin in, maybe some SBC block pins would work for this, so the sensor knows where TDC is. Then I would put a degree wheel on the crankshaft to determine what degree of advance I would need to install a 2nd pin. Tecumseh engines are easier to do, but it isn't impossible with a Wisconsin. It is just going to be more work and be prepared, for a little trial and error to get it right.
I was wondering do dome of those Tecumseh,s fit Into a old Narrow Frame Cub Cadet??? - I am thinking of doing a transplant - old Kohler k-181 is worn ~out!!!
I made the conversion on my Tecumseh HH140, which is the power plant for a Bolens H14. All I get is backfiring at start. The engine won't run. It appears the timing is way off. Any ideas how I might correct this problem? Thanks. Eric
Hey Shawn thanks for this awesome video. I do have a question for you though I tried to do exactly what you did... on my 14 HP Kohler engine. Unfortunately I have no spark everything is exactly the way you set it up. The only thing I can think of is I only have one trigger high spot on my fly wheel and your Tecumseh had two trigger pins. Any help would be awesome. Thank you
I believe the reason for 2 pins is that when starting it uses the long pin "retarded timing" and when engine is running it uses the short pin to advance to timing?
You have to hook the stator wire up to a voltage regulator and to the battery to activate that circuit just like it was from the factory, that does not change.
![HOW TO TEST A STATOR / WHAT IS A STATOR [step by step] GY6](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/VoXYzQ61tRM/mqdefault.jpg)
![HOW TO TEST A STATOR / WHAT IS A STATOR [step by step] GY6](/img/tr.png)
After much trial and error the ignition system finally works perfectly. I was having issues with the engine backfiring and sheering the flywheel pin, Thinking it through I took the ABS sensor and replaced it with a Magnetic Pickup MPU Speed Sensor it has allowed the engine to run normally at high RPM, The ABS sensor somehow limited the RPM's and would through the timing off making it backfire . some thing to consider it you can not give full throttle without it backfiring or per-igniting.
Now it runs smooth and has no problems what-so-ever going from idle to full throttle or from pulling heavy loads.
Oh yeah this is on the HH160 I have 2 Tecumseh motors and 3 Bolens tractors the OH160 is fine.
Tecumseh is one strong engine! Again thanks for saving mine from the scrap pile or the decomposing pile as my buddy calls it.
Thank you for supplying this information. It sounds like the sensor you used has better pick up to trigger response to the coil than the ABS sensor. What is the MPU sensor off you used if you would let us know that are running the ABS sensors.
Man I've been collecting these old engines for ever just for the usefulness of them. Parts are getting hard to come by; being 65 years old this just opened up a whole new world of tinkering. Thank you!
That was very interesting, I recognize some of the parts. Thank you for passing on the information that you had received from another fellow. You were fortunate to know him. I wished I could have met him. Thanks again for your interesting video.
@@edwardchristian6337 You are welcome. Thanks for watching.
Updater on this ignition, I installed the right ABS sensor and it fired up first turn of the key! OMG! It runs better than it EVER has!
Thank you so much for this video without you My Tecumseh would be scrap! It is so utterly cool now, Hank the Tank Lives again!
You truly are a genius!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience. I am no mechanic by no means but am not afraid to try something. I have a 1966 Colt 2310 garden tractor that has the Tecumseh HH100 engine. I will be using this to try and get it running.
Very cool, I have an old mini msd box I got off an old tractor. I had to see what was inside of course. I opened it up and there was a gm hei module in there. That was it. Nice video
If you use a battery-style ignition switch, you can replace the broken ignition switch and get rid of that extra switch as well!
I'm fixing up an old Bolens with an OH140, if the ignition swap works I'll have a great engine!
Working on this right now for my Tecumseh 0H160 I did not get any spark from the first try ( I used an ABS sensor I had ) turns out that the sensor was not working, I have the one you stated in the video ordered and will be here soon. Hope it works because getting a NEW engine will cost a few thousand bucks and I really like the looks of this one and would hate to see it trashed because it does run and is in great shape other than the electrical system that took out the ignition system.
The last magnet on the flywheel is the trigger. Position a pickup over it as moving it forward or back 3/8" to find good timing. I would say use a timing light before, but no spark, no light. The pickup has to produce 450mV to trigger the GM ignition module has a protect power switch transistor the keeps the coils primary on. Once open by signal, field collapses and sparks. A battery is required. Those with starters have batteries. Under the flywheel is a stator, diodes and magnets to create alternator to charge battery. Diodes are one way gates, Digital multi meter has diode setting or ohms can work. Open one way, thru voltage the other. Delco created a simple module used on Mercury V6 & V8, but used the two input wires to monitor speed. This caused advanced. Normally, timing is retarded to start the engine, fine. But this limits how fast RPM's go. The V6 has a higher advance circuit than V8. Grab one and adjust the carb & throttle. High or main jetting to larger size. A torch wire cleaning kit can help measure before enlarging. Now (Caution) as not only 4-stoke engines with oil in crankcase has a limit on angles like sideways on a hill. Oil moves to one side, the engine get air, not oil. Many are 30 degrees. Same with speed as wrist pin, rod and crank will flex. Springs on valves will not close as fast, this is valve float. No reason to exceed this unless you are racing your rider! Safe repairs & mowing.
Are you talking Mercury outboard V6 module? Any idea what year etc I should get? Thanks
@@will7its All I/O's, not outboards. Mercruiser changed their name to Mercury & no clue why. As service manager I have outboard mechanics, and a few on just out everything. One was the only tech in his Dads small dealer, but I considered the best. Will timing lights are not common, but with tach in one hand & timing light in other, at 1k RPM, 2,5k RPM, 3k RPM, the advance was quicker and higher that a V8. These were 97-2000 boats even though the engine could be older or newer. These GM engines have serial numbers for getting the correct parts and theft. Remember the primary side of the ignition coil in on all the time with key on. The power switching transistor (N-type MOSFET) and fires when off as magnetic field collapses, then spark. I am sure load testing on a dynamometer before finding a sweet spot for torque. Working on HEI after 72, but EFI in 76 on two cars (76 Cadillac Seville w/350, Bendix Bank Fire) and (76 Datsun 280Z, 6 cylinders but 7 injectors. #7 was controlled by a "Thermal-Time" switch that screwed into the coolant jacket / acted as choke) This ignition module creates heat and requires a heat transfer paste under it on flat area otherwise it will fail fast. Best of luck.
@@deankay4434 Ok I will look into it. Thanks for the reply. Cheers
@@deankay4434 Do you mean the thunderbolt 4 ignition?
I would have never thought to do that. I really wanted to fix are old tractor. Have been in the family my whole life. Thanks!
I have the exact same tractor along with same set up with a little luck and your tutoring I will be up and running tank you for posting.
Great video. Helped me get my Bolens running. Spent about 15 dollars getting parts at my local yard and my tractor is running again!
Thanks for watching!
how did you set it up on your bolens? i am trying to do same thing. any pics or tips
@@arturochavez3134 I used a small piece of angle iron to mount the sensor then if I remember correctly I bolted the HEI module to the side of the tins. I sold the tractor so I cannot see it to verify.
I did what the video showed and had miss-firing and the engine ran very poorly. So, out with the timing light and found that the spark was jumping all over the place. I was a mechanic for 40 years and now retired. So, the next step was to cut off the shorter second firing pin but that didn't help. What to do next. I checked on-line and found EMI = Electro Magnetic Interference. My son is an electrical engineer for Motorola and suggested that I use coaxle cable to help since the coil puts out high voltage and might be affecting the wire from the magnetic sensor to the module. Sure enough after hooking up coaxle cable from the sensor to the module - everything is perfect (you must ground the outer body shielding wires of the cable). The engine runs at high rpm - idles like a dream and checking with the timing light, the spark is dead on an not jumpy. Another youtube video thought that it needed a higher RPM module - that is quite silly because a good old GM module is good for very high RPM and my engine had a jumpy spark even at an idle. Also widening the gap on the magnetic sensor helps. - - Don
Great comments. I found my sensor was bad. It wouldn't open. Replaced it and things worked out.
Question..... OH120, looking for a number to replace the Walbro LMR carb. on a other tractor.
@@garryludwick2990 do you know what guage wire you would use? And also does the coil need a condesnor?
@@bernardomeza7541 14 should be plenty. Amperage is not an issue, just the heat, some rated for 600f, most is.
I saw one on" Tarryl fixes all". I found a Kohler, China one. Have to do the choke like his, drill arm tab and remount cable clip Amazon... X001GP1EDB
I purchased the parts and tried this system with my OH160 on a Miller blue star 2E. Now I have spark but it's having issues where it runs a little hard and missfires. If you have any tips they would be appreciated :)
Thank you so much. You saved my hh100 from never being finished. You really made my night.
Glad I could help! Please check out this restoration that has got started this year on this tractor. There is going to be some cool stuff I do with this engine as well.
Shaws Garage I was wondering what is the part number of the abs sensor you used and the part number for the HEI sensor
Great video just picked up a sears gt14 with solid state and while it does run I wanna be prepared to keep it running saw lots of form posts that showed the ideas but having a explanation in video form helps alot more
Thanks for watching!
Nice solution ....and excellent video. Have you published actual parts numbers for this solution?
why are there two trigger pins for a single cylinder?
great share!
Think of those 2 pins as a switch.That has to turn the spark on and off in the relation of the theory of how a 4 cycle internal combustion engine operate.
@@shawsgarage7795 think about this... the little engines with points don't advance and they run just fine.
Just a little info for ya. HEI module is great for being compact, but Ford Duraspark II has variable dwell to really help with that advancing the timing. Food for thought. Looks great. I'd probably consider trying to use an HEI coil to boot. Nice powerful spark. Thanks for sharing this.
I purchased the parts and tried this system with my OH160 on a Miller blue star 2E. Now I have spark but it's having issues where it runs a little hard and missfires. If you have any tips they would be appreciated :)
@@bernardomeza7541 Sounds like the timing is a little off. May have to adjust the pickup from one side or the other to bring it in. Also check the gap between the pickup and the trigger. It's usually around .010"
@@bernardomeza7541 I did this on mine but I use the points so same problem this module don't have the advance so probably the second pin it's for the advance
thanks for the great video, I got my dads old log splitter running again with hei, cam sensor from cat, and a ford coil. it runs great thank you.
Thanks for watching!
Thank you for sharing this information! You really made my day. I didn’t know what I was going to do to get my old miller welder working again. Now I can fix it with parts I have laying around my shop except for the sensor and pig tail. Thank you thank you thank you
I did mine just like you. Works fine for 10 then cuts out like I shut it off... any clues?
@@garryludwick2990 could you send the parts that you used?
Is it still working?
Im doing the same rn with a 200le
I have never seen a Van Norman Rotary Broach that small. I used to use a "normal" sized one for planing cylinder heads, block decks and intake manifolds when I worked at an automotive machine shop. Great machines.
You can see the Van Norman in action in my Farmall tractor video segments. Here is a link ruclips.net/video/cCKqmCseNy8/видео.html
That module for those who don't know is an LX-301 standard motor part # ignition module...they cost about 30 bucs I think...or there abouts.
This just saved my hh120 from the big crunch! U my friend are a damn genius! Thanks for tbd video
So agree.....
You are a genius
I'm hoping you can help me
I have what I think is an SS 12
With a Tecumseh solid State ignition engine but I do not see triggering pins in the flywheel
Any advice would be appreciated I would much prefer your setup than gambling on eBay
Thanks,
You probably have the HH120 engine. Some had trigger pins, some did not. You can use a flywheel from a HH100 or HH120 to run the trigger pin set up. Just check the weight differences between the flywheel you are taking off to one you are putting on for engine balancing.
I thought your presentation was very informational. I have several of these old engines in various tractors. And have wondered what I was going to do and they finally gave up. Also I like your attitude about the customer in the sentiment. I'm a 60 + year old guy myself and still remember my grandfather in the phone this I had for his equipment. So good on you and keep it up
That is awesome i have a 16 hp overhead valve techumseh in a ss 16 suburban Sears tractor and the coil is bad. I'm going to try this !!! Thanks a lot !!!
Did you get this to work? I also have a 16hp tecumseh with no spark.
Great video, took me a long time to find it. I have the same problem on my tractor. Will buy parts today to begin this project. Thanks very much.
That is very cool, thanks. NOW the 3 wires for the charging system, all I have is a one over 2 plastic connector from the stator, what do I need to charge the battery? thanks.
You are going to have to get you a Kohler voltage regulator rectifier. You should have 3 wires coming off your plug from the stator. 2 that are AC voltage and one that is magneto kill. To charge the battery, you need to take the AC from the stator and turn it to DC. That is what the regulator will do. I will be doing an update on this video because I am putting this tractor back together as we speak.
Great video! I have a 5 HP Tecumseh on an Ariens Rocket V tiller. Looking for ideas to convert to electronic ignition.
Thank you for sharing that information. The best deal I can find on a used solid state module on my 0H160 Tecumseh engine is $169!
Hello did you ever get the engine running? And if so could you send the abs sensor you used?
I just went ahead and got the used ignition module. It runs like a new one. I'm sorry I can't be of help with the conversion parts. Good luck with your system.
hello friend, apply the system to a tecumseh 0H-120 motor, and it works perfectly, thanks for the contribution with your video.
My local JD dealer would not even take a look at my machine and told me that the coil was obsolete, maybe I could find used parts on the internet. "WRONG" I got the parts as described for about $85 online and used scrap aluminum pieces for mounting plates. It was easy to do and has a very strong spark. Thank you for this information.
Steve Norton Your quite welcome! Glad we could help you.
thanks for sharing , yes you can teach an old dog some new tricks !!! this is quite thought provoking !!!!
Shaw , I installed parts as per your video. Starts and runs again, very happy about that. I was hoping you made video of how you wired an original new switch. Also what part number switch since eliminating solid state. In using my old original switch , won,t shut off engine. Again Thanks for this video.
As I am putting this tractor back together from the restoration. I have video's on this about the progress. I will be doing a follow up on this and the finishing touches to it. Make sure you subscribe to get notifications on this build. As for the shutting off, you just need to run a wire from the keyswitch to shut the 12V power supply off of the coil. You can use either a 5 or 6 blade keyswitch.
Excuse my ignorance ,how did you start /fire it up .by the toggle switch?I understand how moat of this works but how does it tie in with ignition switch or is toggle switch replacement for ignition switch
This tractor is now completed since the video was filmed. Back then all the toggle switch did was send battery voltage to the coil to start it. We rewired the tractor since it was restored to where it all runs off a 5 pin keyswitch. There are some videos of the finished tractor in my playlist.
How did you determine the location of the pickup in relation to the timing. The tall trigger pin I assume is Top dead center
but how did you determine when the exact time the pickup would trigger and index it correctly
you are the most helpful ever, your system will save lots of machines thanks
wow what a great explanation on the conversion very helpful the best ive seen thanks alot now i can fix mine
Great work, how can you upgrade the hm100 to electronic ignition?
It would be difficult to do this on the HM. The HM doesn't have trigger pins like the HH does.
You've changed my life
Wordering if you could post a parts list for the high energy ignition upgrade please
??????
Love the videos man great content this should work on the 16hp with solid state
Thanks for watching!
Shaws Garage I am looking for a Tecumseh engine mechanic where are you located.
@@vernonhearn2724 I am in Michigan.
@@shawsgarage7795 did you put a timing light on it to see if the spark advanced?
@@shawsgarage7795 could you please make a drawing of how you did the wiring and put it on this video, thank you
Hey Shaw, IMPORTANT QUESTION: Any chance you can tell us guys that have solid state ignition (no dowel pins) that want to convert over, where to drill for the long dowel pin hole in reference for the keyway. I have a 68 HH120 that I want to get functional and freshen up for my sister as it was my parents from when I was little. I was thinking using the calipers lower jaws with one in the keyway (against the side closet to the dowel pin) and the other jaw would be touching the outside of the flywheel and then using a fabric tape measure, measure from the edge of the caliper to the center of the longest dowel pin. I don't think the measurement to the shorter one is important (not sure it's function) but if you wanted that measurement could be recorded too. I have scoured the internet and tore two tractors (friends) down to find out they didn't have any dowel pins either, ugggh. Anyways, GREAT VIDEO!!!! You remind me of a friends dad when I was growing up, he ALWAYS thought outside the box and his favorite question was "Why won't it work?"
Dave
Thanks for watching! Drilling flywheels for pins that dont have them is tricky. I dont have a 100% accurate way to do it. I am still playing around with that one.
Shaws Garage Hi guys, I also have a non-pined flywheel! Have you found a precise way to drill the flywheel at the right spot? How many degrees it need to be before or after tdc? Thanks in advance! Any help will be awesome!
Well it almost doesn't matter where the trigger or pickup are on the flywheel circumference. As long as they meet at the specified deg of ignition In relation to TDC. As far as initial timing goes. But for advanced timing if its supposed to have that. The figure out what the total advance timing is supposed to be in deg. Then measure your flywheel diameter and divide by 360 for inches per degree and then stab the advance pin in based on that.
ok soo you can take the old ignition module cut it down mount the pulse signal unit to it . it will have perfect drilled holes for moutning and be adjustable.
Damn good idea and video. May use this one day so I just hope the video stays up until then.
Nice video. I have some videos doing the same thing on some 1970ish single cylinder Onan NB engines. Does you sensor ignore the short nub on the flywheel ? I think the OEM module used the shirt nub so change the timing on startup....
I know this is an old thread. I've done this conversion and can't get it to rev up, chock has to be on for it to even run. What am I missing :(
The crank pins may not be at the right height. One has to be at .250 the other at .187. I would check that.
You should recieve millions subs fore this video.
After doing this conversion on my 1975 16hp Sears tractor, it seems to run just fine, but now it wants to overcharge the battery after setting it at high RPM. Amp Gauge Go's max and ignition switch wants to start on fire 🔥 😂. The tractor has a new voltage regulator. Didn't do this until I changed the ignition. What's up with that? Any help please 🙏.
I have seen many "new" voltage regulators be defective. Especially China made regs. I use the OEM Kohler 3 terminal reg on my HH100 . At 3400 rpm puts out 13.4 volts. This is a good area to be at because at idle to mid throttle, it ranges between 12.9 to 13.2 volts.
That is really cool I am wondering about timing you have to adjust for that or check it somehow or is it close enough just being in the center of The mounting bolts
Put it straight up. It doesn't matter on position of sensor because.... keep in mind there is no centrifugal mechanical or vacuum advance in this system.Just be sure the flywheel key is good and not starting to sheer. And you have no more than a .010 air gap.
This is probably why many of these aren’t around hardly anymore. When that coil fails it gets scrapped. I was lucky, & got 1 that does run but since I knew abt this already I just put a different motor on it, & at the time I was tired of fixing these old engines. Not charging, dead battery, & the constant fight, vs just putting a predator on it and setting the old engine aside for a project.
I’m contemplating on doing this to my OH160 that does run good, the old coil works but I might as well just do the conversion cuz it’s a ticking time bomb when it stops sparking.
By the time I fix the engine I’ll have as much into it for wiring and parts vs just using one of my Kohler K-series engines thats better or my M18 thats been waiting for a tractor. Turns over good, feels good & tight. Needs a coil, and a carb to run hopefully not a starter.
I’ll probably find something fun for the OH160. Good engines, just wished they used the magneto instead of that.
Great video! I have a question does the mounting location of the ABS sensor change timing if it’s moved L to R? Did you just guesstimate general location as to where the original SSI trigger pin sat? Thanks
The sensor is about 1/2 in diameter. With a pin that small passing under it, you would have to move it a lot to notice anything.
@@shawsgarage7795 hello I am looking for the abs sensor you used, could you send a part number or link?
@@bernardomeza7541 Ford f150 or 99dodge ram. Speed sensor in the top of differential
@@bernardomeza7541 I googled RUclips
Hh120 ignition. Forgot the site but he has a yellow tractor. The best I found. And mine works great. I used a 1" angle aluminum. Made it easier to make mounting slots for adjusting sensor gap
@@bernardomeza7541 Dorman 970-012 is the part number.
When setting the location for the sensor does the engine need to be on TDC.
Yes, it does.
How do you know where to mount the abs sensor?
Just has to be mounted so the pins can pass under it. Can be top or bottom it doesn't care. On top it is hidden under shroud though.
Awesome gonna rig it up on my yamaha tired of the exciter coil going out on my stator had one on my 125 Suzuki years ago
Very smart well done bud
Great video. How would you set the timing with this?
Do you have the part No for the ABS sensor you used? Did you check how accurate the timing was afterwards?
I do not remember the exact part number. The sensor I used is off a 1999 Ford F150 truck. The way I checked the timing is I adjusted the sensor to where I Iiked how it started. There is a video of this tractor when I completed it this year, and I am driving it. You can see in the video that the tractor runs excellent and doesn't miss a beat. Just make sure your crank pin heights are correct before you do anything. The tall one should be .250 and the short .187.
I’m guessing I can run another wire from the run terminal of my ignition switch.
dumb question but the pins on the flywheel are they magnetic? or just steel studs? want to do similar thing for my Wisconsin 10hp but the flywheel has the steal or magnets behind the flywheel. But it would be easier to adjust like your set up.
They are steel pins
I like doing this kind of stuff.
I was given a 1970 st 12 hp tecumseh sears suburban with deck. Restoring this milestone dinosaur everything was cheap till I got to the engine Yep cast iron solid state ignition ......87pounds of oh hell yes I'm heavy and I'm gonna be a freaking nightmare.......Well it sits all rebuilt from new crank to piston to head new valves everything redone got all that ugly yellow burnt paint off.now it's a beautiful no paint motor.the only down side is the ignition.ive been messing with this for 3 yrs and your idea is ok just have to upgrade the h.i.e module to an excel because at high rpm mine backfires so this motor sits on a log splitter does a great job because I couldn't get the charging system to work properly.so I took the second pulley in and ran it to an alternator.and then to a voltage regulator then to the battery works like a charm at any rpm .........what happens to the tractor I took the mower deck off sold it fairly added a 40hp briggs o h v V twin and made one bad pulling tractor out of it I'm in the unlimited class and she pulls wonderful.just to let you know.
Thanks for watching! Be sure to like and subscribe. I have started the restoration on this Sears and you will be able to get notifications of this project. Very excited about this one.
any chance you can tell me where the 2 pins on the flyweel are located at? im assuming one is at tdc but where does the other one go? to the right or left of tdc? at what degree. i could really use that input.thanks
I have decided to do a follow up video on this, due to I have been getting so many questions about this. It will be easier if I explain with references in another video. You are correct the 1 pin is TDC and the 2nd pin is spark advance.
i like your ideas, will talk more.
Hello ! Your flip switch yellow to coil , where does other wire go ? Thanks
to a 12v power source.
Does it matter what hei ignition system u use like does it back fire at high rpm say above 2000 or is just a generic hei system from the parts store ok
I just purchased a tractor in which the previous owner did this modification very poorly. (By poorly I mean the bracket is an angle iron with misaligned holes and washers to create the air gap. I did my best to re-align it and it runs now, but only at high rpm.
The engine doesnt not start easy and backfires. Will only run at high RPM where the momentum forces the motor in the right direction i guess?
So my question is: How do you set the timing with this setup? Also why do you need the 12v switch? Why can't you just use the 12v run position on the ignition switch? Lastly according to the previous owner, this mod stopped the battery from charging properly and the battery will eventually die and so will the engine. Any help would be appreciated.
Is this true about the battery issue with this mod? Cuz I was wondering about the battery charge as well.
What happen is this module will eat all the charge that ur stator create so not enough to charge ur battery
hey i have one of those but it has points and a big magneto...do u think i could do this and make it work using the big magnet on the flywheel instead of the 2 dowels thay are in the video
Have not tried that set up yet.To see how it would work. May have to experiment with that one.
Hey, im in the same situation as you jeremiah! Have you tried it? Does it work? Thanks in advance!
Jeremiah I haven't tried that on that type of system. I would be curious if it would work myself. It would be a good trial test to see if it does. Give it a shot and if it works show us how you did it.
Is the engine block aluminium as well? Maybe it's just me being wishy-washy, but dissimilar metals is always a worry
This is a cast iron block.
I have a hh100. But have not got to r&r it yet. I was thinking could a coil over spark work?
Do you have a parts list with part #s for each part? I went to a parts store this morning said he needed part numbers because the ignition mod needs to be more specific Thanks Dean
Sorry I do not have a parts list. If you go to the parts store and tell them you need a Ignition module for a 79 chevy malibu with a 305 or a 267 V8. It is impossible for them to get it wrong, Same as the rear wheel ABS sensor for, that is for a 99 F150 Extended cab.
I have wired My 0H 140 exactly as you’ve shown, but I’m getting no spark is a pen supposed to be magnetized
The pin should not be magnetized. You need to verify if the sensor is working and isnt defective, you need to hook up a ohm meter and when the pin is under the sensor you should have some resistance.
I fixed my old chipper with a hh120 thank you
Glad it worked out for you! Thanks for watching.
I'm gonna have to use an automobile coil or mount the coil on the plastic and run a ground on the 4 wheeler application
Is there a way you can put a kit together or get me a list of PNs? I got a 66-74 JD 112 with the tecumsah from my grandpa who has passed away and I’m going through it. Trying to find video on lash adjustments too, but not having any luck.
I'm looking to convert two HH70's and wondering what the electronic ignition options are. Any ideas by chance other than this or other options with this method to look out for? Man, this will be nice to know to keep on my mind when I'm out at the salvage yard next. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you thank you thank you thank you
Thanks for watching!
I added this to my tractor but seem to have a miss fire over 1/2 throttle did you have issues with that
I did at 1st, which is why you make the sensor adjustable in the bracket that supports it. It was time-consuming to get it right. I actually had to move mine 3 times to get it right. If you see the video of the completed tractor in the playlist on the channel with me running and driving it, you can see mine does not miss a beat.
@@shawsgarage7795 I saw the video did you have to upgrade the gm module as well
I have a question. My flywheel has screws not pins. how do I get the screws out?
ok guys just bought all of it cost 150 small town prifit. i dont mind but reality check. thanks for the vidio guy!!
Salvage yard is best bet for cheap
Hey shaw. How can a person keep it all AC Current for firing the engine? I mean, Where can a person get a module for AC? For example: You have all three of the parts in a 610748, 610855 and 610906. They are a MAGNETIC PICK UP, A TRANSFORMER (We will Call that a spark plug coil) and a Module. A person Could keep it all AC by using the 610760 Transformer (Coil) . a Finer magnetic Pick up from a electric guitar and wherever to get the AC module. The reason You cannot use the two pole one wire coming from the stator is because the two poles on the stator make AC current. All the rest on that stator generates AC current as well but they are separate from one another because the other ones go to regulator to be switched over to 12v. The Two pole one wire runs up to the module inside the coil pack and the other wire coming off that two pole goes to the M on the ignition switch to kill the Two pole juice so that it does not travel anymore juice up that tiny wire to the module inside of Original Coil pack (610748 Original to that engine You have here in video). Should never throw them kind of units out because the Transformer inside of them could still be good or possibly even the module in it is good and the transformer is bad. Could always take two and make one. I know what You are thinking. lol. There are two You can get apart fairly easy and two that You cannot on the 748, 855 and 906. Two that were made was one with Red Rubber and black rubber. The other two that wont come apart no matter what You do is Cream color epoxy and black epoxy. Sometimes people twist that dang post on the SSI unit as well and dont even notice when they did it which will cause it to break that tiny wire thats soldered on to the post. I have repaired on like that before. Yea. If You happen to know of a module holla. lol. Thanks.
Bravo best mower mod of the year!!! Thanks
can I use a crank sensor & GM module on onan 6.5 nh Gen.
I set mine up just like the video. No spark. Could I be using the wrong ABS pickup?
It is possible, I specified in the video I used a rear abs sensor out of a 1999 Ford 150. 1997 to 1999 are the same from what I am told
so what vis the end result of the wire from the stator
so I got all of mine same way and i get spark but wont run. does it matter where i mounted the sensor? i see it flashing but no start also do i need a second pin? i have a Wisconsin tr10 and i have no pins. i put a small magnet at the spot between the orginal 2 magnets. but on top of the flyweel ,the orginal magnets where inside the flywheel. is that correct or should i be putting my magnet at the orginal timing mark on flywheel? but thats not where the orginal magnets went. sorry im confused and really like to get it running
This video is for the Tecumseh HH100 engine that already has the timing trigger pins from the factory. I personally have not done this on a Wisconsin engine. But where I would start is, determine where the true TDC is on the engine. That can be done with a magnetic base stand and dial indicator that goes on the block. Then I would look into if I could drill a hole in the flywheel to put a pin in, maybe some SBC block pins would work for this, so the sensor knows where TDC is. Then I would put a degree wheel on the crankshaft to determine what degree of advance I would need to install a 2nd pin. Tecumseh engines are easier to do, but it isn't impossible with a Wisconsin. It is just going to be more work and be prepared, for a little trial and error to get it right.
I was wondering do dome of those Tecumseh,s fit Into a old Narrow Frame Cub Cadet??? - I am thinking of doing a transplant - old Kohler k-181 is worn ~out!!!
You can put any engine into a garden tractor. May have to make some engine mounting brackets. Change some wiring around and have a good imagination.
how do you keep the battery charged if you are pulling from it?
The engine still has the original 10 amp stator. I run the leads from that into a Kohler 3 terminal voltage reg. Puts out 13 Volts at 3100 rpm
Wow very impressive
I made the conversion on my Tecumseh HH140, which is the power plant for a Bolens H14. All I get is backfiring at start. The engine won't run. It appears the timing is way off. Any ideas how I might correct this problem? Thanks. Eric
Hey Shawn thanks for this awesome video. I do have a question for you though I tried to do exactly what you did... on my 14 HP Kohler engine. Unfortunately I have no spark everything is exactly the way you set it up. The only thing I can think of is I only have one trigger high spot on my fly wheel and your Tecumseh had two trigger pins. Any help would be awesome. Thank you
did you ever get iot to work ?
Could you solve the problem?
are you using a condenser on the coil like your fix
Direct and to the point... great, informative and useful. Thanks.
I did all this and still have no spark, How can I ask questions?
I have the same issue. Wondering if I used a different wheel speed sensor. Let me know what you find out.
Is that a passive or active speed sensor?
This would be a passive sensor due to it picking up magnetic impulses.
I got a old Tecumseh 10hp moter I need a coil the motor doesn't have points the coil is on the inside of flywheel no where I can get a coil for it
You can get a 12V external coil at any auto parts store.
Hey man how did you hook your wires to the abs sensor
2 of the red butt connectors in series. Do not tie the 2 abs wires together and run 1 wire. Thanks for watching!
Thanks just ol but connectors hopeing I can get some spark out of mine
I believe the reason for 2 pins is that when starting it uses the long pin "retarded timing" and when engine is running it uses the short pin to advance to timing?
I believ the same thing I did mine using the existing points as a trigger and work on idle but not rev up means time it's off and no advance
Does the original coil under the flywheel still charge the battery if it is functional?
I also wandered how the battery got charged. I see the stator wire hanging towards the front of the engine.
You have to hook the stator wire up to a voltage regulator and to the battery to activate that circuit just like it was from the factory, that does not change.