I gota say champ ya pissen in the wind there , without running a hone through the bore you may as well bye a complete new unit as you will be doing the job again my good man.
Late to the party. Just subscribed. I have a 07 Pontiac G6 standard transmission and they don 't make this part anymore nor can you find it online. So it is good to know how to rebuild it. Also, as far as I know, only 2006 and 2007 have the same clutch master cylinder. Thanks and have a nice day.
thanks for posting this. I was expecting to see honing of the cylinder, just did my slave cylinder and it needed a hone due to visible internal damage. the bleed port on my slave was blocked and needed poking a fine wire through to unblock. compressed air would not clear it. my parts guy tells me the clutch master piston is 15.87mm diameter on my VZJ95R toyota prado. all the brake hone kits I've seen nominate a minimum diameter of 19mm. (3/4") maybe that's why nobody(?) seems to have a video of honing a clutch master cylinder. will have to see what I find during dissasembly and if my existing brake hone will fit. part of me says : don't bother trying to save $ vs time, just replace the whole clutch master. just did my clutch slave : I found the lips on the piston rubber seals were hard to insert, the first lip required pushing the piston into the bore at an angle and working around to seat into the bore, the second lip was a pita to seat into the bore. felt like it needed something like a piston ring compressor to assist and avoid potential damage to the lip seals. maybe next time I'll cut up some plastic and makeshift a rubber seal compressor to assist inserting piston into bore. dropping that idea for others to critique. maybe I'm overthinking it. otherwise, great tutorial and thanks for posting.
So when you re attach the line to the master I presume there is going to be some air in there which ultimately needs to get pushed thru the slave bleeder valve?
Hey Nick, going to give this a go on the weekend, but I will be replacing the whole cylinder. Where is the nut you're loosening when doing the bleeding? and are you just bleeding it into a container ?? Also do you have a video for replacing the slave? Great video, thanks for this!
I've just stripped out a clutch mc which was totally seized, though almost new. It had spent 6 years in Javea in Spain with no use for most of that time. It took me days to get the damned thing off as it was on a 1959 Berkeley T60 three wheeler with race prepared Mini 1275 S engine, and a one off motorsports chassis. I think they fitted the Willwood pedal box with the body off, so the access with it on is really very bad! Anyway to cut to the chase, the problem was the red rubber grease they's put in to seal it up, before fitting the dust boot. This had totally dried out, jamming the piston face and bore. After (finally) getting it free with compressed air I cleard the bore and cleaned the piston with 1000 grit wet'n'dry wet with brake fluid. It seems happy now, only of course the gremlins pinched the rod locking nut, and as I'm in France I will no doubt have a real pain finding something with the right thread... Good video, glad to see I'm not the only one who gets brake fluid everywhere....I hope you missed the paintwork?
I couldn't find anything showing me how a master cylinder 'should' shoot fluid out of the master to slave connection. So thank you for this video as it shows my master is not working as fluid does not shoot like yours just dribbles if it's held vertical, even horizontal yours shoots a good stream of fluid so mine is fubar lol
HowToNick I took it all apart and no splits in the seals but I guess it's just worn around the edges.. I kicked the clutch really hard in my big work boots, that's what killed it 🤦♂️😂
My clutch wont disengage fully, I noticed when I depress the clutch pedal the fluid in my resevouir lowers and when I release the pedal it raises again, does this mean my clutch master cylinder is bad?
I’m bench bleeding my clutch master today , how come you didn’t put a clear hose goin back into the reservoir? Just wondering, from other videos they always do that
Its not really necessary to bench bleed the clutch master. I thought it would help with bleeding the system but it didn't really do anything. If you are trying to then put the clear hose back into the resivour. I was more just trying to see if it was working ok and pushing fluid out.
@@howtonick2803 i replaced a new piston and it went bad quickly, i guess the inside of the chamber is not soft enough and damaged the rubber on the new piston and the chamber could use some sanding but i don't know what sand paper number to use. What do you say p320 or p1000 or what, i would really appreciate your help!
I’m thinking you filmed yourself pumping the clutch pedal or that lady has really hairy ankles -which might actually be skin protective in the out doors, jus sayin’ 😉
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By far the best video I have seen on RUclips for this process. Thanks mate!
Vedran Jovic thanks alot! 😀
Your the best sharing to how to rebuild clutch master
Beautiful presentation. Thank you!
BRILLIANT EXPLANATION, I LOVE IT
Probably one of the best explanation ever, God bless you !
Fixing to try this on my tacoma, big help big thanks bro
Hey thanks for posting this video. Made my 96 F150 go smoothly.
Best on RUclips! Thanks guy!
Not what i was after but still a good video mate well done
love the fail cam
Really good video. Thanks alot for making this bud. 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Wish I'd seen this before; I just had to replace this on my HJ45. Well now I know for next time. 👍
I gota say champ ya pissen in the wind there , without running a hone through the bore you may as well bye a complete new unit as you will be doing the job again my good man.
Late to the party. Just subscribed. I have a 07 Pontiac G6 standard transmission and they don 't make this part anymore nor can you find it online. So it is good to know how to rebuild it. Also, as far as I know, only 2006 and 2007 have the same clutch master cylinder. Thanks and have a nice day.
Thanks a lot 😀 glad that my video helped 😊
thanks for posting this.
I was expecting to see honing of the cylinder, just did my slave cylinder and it needed a hone due to visible internal damage. the bleed port on my slave was blocked and needed poking a fine wire through to unblock. compressed air would not clear it.
my parts guy tells me the clutch master piston is 15.87mm diameter on my VZJ95R toyota prado. all the brake hone kits I've seen nominate a minimum diameter of 19mm. (3/4") maybe that's why nobody(?) seems to have a video of honing a clutch master cylinder.
will have to see what I find during dissasembly and if my existing brake hone will fit. part of me says : don't bother trying to save $ vs time, just replace the whole clutch master.
just did my clutch slave : I found the lips on the piston rubber seals were hard to insert, the first lip required pushing the piston into the bore at an angle and working around to seat into the bore, the second lip was a pita to seat into the bore. felt like it needed something like a piston ring compressor to assist and avoid potential damage to the lip seals. maybe next time I'll cut up some plastic and makeshift a rubber seal compressor to assist inserting piston into bore.
dropping that idea for others to critique. maybe I'm overthinking it.
otherwise, great tutorial and thanks for posting.
So when you re attach the line to the master I presume there is going to be some air in there which ultimately needs to get pushed thru the slave bleeder valve?
Hey Nick, going to give this a go on the weekend, but I will be replacing the whole cylinder. Where is the nut you're loosening when doing the bleeding? and are you just bleeding it into a container ??
Also do you have a video for replacing the slave?
Great video, thanks for this!
gj friend, saved my uneducated ass today
I usually do the rebuild on the floor. It gives me better leverage and control.
Thanks! Very helpful!
I've just stripped out a clutch mc which was totally seized, though almost new. It had spent 6 years in Javea in Spain with no use for most of that time.
It took me days to get the damned thing off as it was on a 1959 Berkeley T60 three wheeler with race prepared Mini 1275 S engine, and a one off motorsports chassis. I think they fitted the Willwood pedal box with the body off, so the access with it on is really very bad!
Anyway to cut to the chase, the problem was the red rubber grease they's put in to seal it up, before fitting the dust boot.
This had totally dried out, jamming the piston face and bore.
After (finally) getting it free with compressed air I cleard the bore and cleaned the piston with 1000 grit wet'n'dry wet with brake fluid.
It seems happy now, only of course the gremlins pinched the rod locking nut, and as I'm in France I will no doubt have a real pain finding something with the right thread...
Good video, glad to see I'm not the only one who gets brake fluid everywhere....I hope you missed the paintwork?
Anyone not commenting on the low key zhanie in the bck ground is wild 🙌🏽🙌🏽🙌🏽❤️
Nice up to after rebuilt done but looks better to bench bleed with finger over hole for the stroke return. Look elsewhere for bleeding tips.
yep definately agree, in the description i note that the way i bench bleed it is not very good and it wasnt actually necessary to do so. Cheers!
Thanks for the vid Nick, ya sound like a Kiwi
😂 I'm an Aussie 😂
@@howtonick2803 oh cool im a Kiwi we sound really similar, best of luck with the bush fires and i hope you and your family are all safe, stay cool.
Lmao I lost it when you brought out the garden hose to water your engine bay
😂😂😂
Brake fluid is extremely corrosive, eats paint, and hydrophilic, so he did exactly right. Probably should’ve explained why, though.
@@davidleet9501 Probably not corrosive but it does dissolve paint, and by the time he's done washing it off it'll be too late
I couldn't find anything showing me how a master cylinder 'should' shoot fluid out of the master to slave connection. So thank you for this video as it shows my master is not working as fluid does not shoot like yours just dribbles if it's held vertical, even horizontal yours shoots a good stream of fluid so mine is fubar lol
Sounds like the seals must have failed. It should have a good stream of fluid coming out the exit. Bugger!
HowToNick I took it all apart and no splits in the seals but I guess it's just worn around the edges.. I kicked the clutch really hard in my big work boots, that's what killed it 🤦♂️😂
@@pcwexhaustmods haha! Good old clutch kick 😂😂😂
Now I know exactly what to do to replace mine.....! But I don't have an assistant, though! Will you let me borrow yours...?
You can get one person bleeding kits, they are great!
@@howtonick2803 But not as much FUN!
@Daniel Coetzee less expensive in the long run 😂
What was the kit worth as opposed to a new cylinder?
I enjoyed that thanks👍🏽
U could tear the piston cup edged against the fill port ramming it in like that.
Mine fluid not enter cylinder, how to fix it? The rubber still new. It fail after 6 month used.
How about when it shares the brake fluid and clutch fluid in the same reservoir?
You do know its the same....riiiight
My clutch wont disengage fully, I noticed when I depress the clutch pedal the fluid in my resevouir lowers and when I release the pedal it raises again, does this mean my clutch master cylinder is bad?
You are fortunate in my 1987Toyota CARINA one must remove half the dashboard to undo two nuts which hold on the master cylinder !
Well done.
I’m bench bleeding my clutch master today , how come you didn’t put a clear hose goin back into the reservoir? Just wondering, from other videos they always do that
Its not really necessary to bench bleed the clutch master. I thought it would help with bleeding the system but it didn't really do anything. If you are trying to then put the clear hose back into the resivour. I was more just trying to see if it was working ok and pushing fluid out.
Is it worth replacing the spring and piston or the whole master cylinder if my car is under warranty
Probably replace the complete master with a genuine part.
Can you clean the inside with parts cleaner ( and let dry) before rebuilding?
Yep definitely, it would be ideal to clean out with brake cleaner after the parts cleaner to remove any residue as well. Cheers
HowToNick thank you man!!
@@howtonick2803 i replaced a new piston and it went bad quickly, i guess the inside of the chamber is not soft enough and damaged the rubber on the new piston and the chamber could use some sanding but i don't know what sand paper number to use.
What do you say p320 or p1000 or what, i would really appreciate your help!
Nice video .thank u
I purchased a dozen master cylinders from the local store and they just don't hold pressure I guess it's because of the boar?
Nice
Couple of questions mate: Did this fix the issue, and where did you get the kit?
Yep it did fix the issue and i just got the kit off ebay. Cheers!
Gunk build up is whats causing the internal components to mulfunctoon i guess.
Hey buddy, my cylinder, is still not working, can we get in touch please
i I just gain imaginate kit from ebay actually working
Hahh.aa you spill the fluid all over in the last part.. hope it didn't harm your paint.
고마워요~
Wov
I’m thinking you filmed yourself pumping the clutch pedal or that lady has really hairy ankles -which might actually be skin protective in the out doors, jus sayin’ 😉
😂😂😂
Jast buy new one for 10$ this not worth it
A good quality new one retails for over $200, a second hand one from the wreckers retails for around $50-80. The rebuild kit is $10 : )
What now??🥶🗣️😰😨🧐🤣🌚👋