Broken & Boosted: Clutch Master Cylinder Replacement & Bleeding
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- Опубликовано: 6 фев 2025
- A very easy procedure that can be done with very basic tools and a helper!
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![LEAKY SLAVE CYLINDER & INSTALL VIDEO [PROJECT MIATA] EP007](/img/1.gif)
I love when I search for a how to vid and a video comes up from your channel on how to do it!
looks pretty simple. I just need to remove the plastic piece in the wheel well. hope I don't break any clips!
I also know this feel
100% this was my problem. Great video. Replaced the slave cylinder last weekend and I was still having troubles getting out of gear from a stop. Threw this in, bled the clutch, it works beautifully now.
did u have any noise when driving it before?
One of my first experiences of helping my dad in the garage was pushing the brake pedal to bleed the brakes when I was a kid back in the 70s - but then it was on Morris Minors, Land Rover Series 1s, and 1964/67 Beetles. The "Down" "Down" "Up" "Up" routine is still music to my ears. Now I'll be getting my wife to do it for my MX5 NA :-) Such a great channel - so many useful vids, done in such a great way. Many thanks!
Thank you so much Greg for such clear, simple and well shot/made videos! 8 years later and this is still helping out guys like me. I’ll always be a fan.
@@Emmrys88 I'm glad to hear it! I look back on these old videos and think man I could have done this so much better 😆
@@TheCarPassionChannel Haha maybe but sometimes simple is better. Thanks for the reply!
So I meet you at the first inland empire/DSlayers meet up.
I'm now in Texas and my clutch hit the floor then stayed there.
Deduced it was slave and master so I checked if you had a video.
Sure enough you did and it was done easy day. Thanks for your passion in the community man you are a God send.
Keep sending it bruh!
This is actually a great video, I like that you put boxes around each nut you were talking about as you explained it. That may really help someone that doesn’t know the differences between the nuts you are talking about. Thumbs up from me brother.
I have to say, between you, the Gearheads channel, and the Scotty Kilmer channel, you all have helped me so much.
Thank you so much for this video, I was driving home and I lost my clutch completely, turns out it was my master cylinder which I was able to replace for next to nothing thanks to you and your skillz ❤️
Thanks to this video i replaced the master cylinder of my Mx5 today. Pretty straight forward but reinstalling the hardline was fiddely. Thanks for the excellent video!
Best to reinstall the hardline while the master cylinder mounting bolts are still loose.
Yes, very helpful vid! PROTIP for Miata Community: After installation of parts and doing the BLEED job...if you have trouble with getting all air bubbles out of line after numerous repeated attempts -- try removing the Bleed Screw and applying a couple of layers of Teflon Plumbers Tape (don't cover bleed hole, though) on threads. After a lot of frustration, this finally eliminated air leaking back into the Slave cylinder (despite the Bleed Screw being fully tightened), facilitating a vacuum for the air bubble-free flow of brake fluid and completion of the Bleeding. Hope this helps others facing this predicament !!
You might have saved me, thank you
Hope you’re healthy and safe.
I still review your old content from time to time. Still holds up. Thank you sir.
🇺🇸✌️
Very happy you did this video. I like simple stuff like this that most people don't know. Please keep doing more insights like this besides just turbo parts. I appreciate it.
Shoot, my next video is all about turbos, hahaha. I got you though, I definitely like to keep a variety of content coming.
Hey no worries, Turbo is the main thing for sure. but small details like this make a HUGE learning gain for me and many others. Love all your videos
This exact issue happened to me today! Sitting at a light with the clutch all the way to the floor, and it basically stalled itself. Couldn’t get it out of gear. Pumped it a few times to get some pressure and limped it home. I’m gonna do the master and slave just so I know they’re both good to go.
Super good video dude. No one comes close to the quality of your videos. So easy to understand and clear
Thank you man!!!
Yo! I applied your method of bleeding to my car and it was superb. Never tried that way. I was out on it a whole day. Bought a second cylinder and all. Thanks man. You are the miata dad. Lol
lol just did this to my 93 Miata a few months ago but the difference is the master cylinder was pissing through the firewall and it was a mess to clean up lol. keep up the awesome videos Greg!!!!
I love your channel man. You love driving, and you are willing to show us quick and easy how to do things. Even though I've done this a few times I still watch your video just for kicks.
I put the Happy Meal clutch kit in my little beep beep about 2k miles ago. Last week I was on just a relaxing drive then my Miata decided to say screw your gear change. I got it into neutral, and got my brother to pull me home while it was idling. Ordered the Exedy master and slave, and we are about to hit the road for the rest of that "joy ride" that started a week ago. Cheers!
Yes, very helpful vid! PROTIP for Miata Community: After installation of parts and doing the BLEED job...if you have trouble with getting all air bubbles out of line after numerous repeated attempts -- try removing the Bleed Screw and applying a couple of layers of Teflon Plumbers Tape (don't cover bleed hole, though) on threads. After a lot of frustration, this finally eliminated air leaking back into the Slave cylinder (despite the Bleed Screw being fully tightened), facilitating a vacuum for the air bubble-free flow of brake fluid and completion of the Bleeding. Hope this helps others facing this predicament !!
@@ehl4538 Pro Tip, and Lesson Learned. If you are going to install a high pressure clutch assembly in a Miata you better replace the master and slave cylinder so they can deal with the increase in pressure.
I think a lot of us or "lonely racers" so having a helper to depress the clutch is out of the question. I took a tip from Scotty Kilmer where you use some sort of long tool to hold the clutch depressed by pushing up the driver seat. I used a handy dandy helper, log that was laying around in the backyard.
Michael Chu a
I was just thinking about replacing my master cylinder.. didn't realize it was so simple! Thanks!
I had to change the master cylinder on mine as well, after replacing the clutch with the "ACT extreme". I had no problems before, but the added pedal pressure lead to an internal leak whenever the pedal was pushed. Slowly making the fluid go back to the reservoir (no external leaks) while holding the pedal to the floor, which would slowly engange the clutch. This lead to problems with full throttle gear changes as well, especially from a standstill, due to the fact that the pedal position where the clutch would disengage would differ with every gear change.. New master cylinder and the problems with gear changes went away. I also changed the slave cylinder once, but that was before turbo conversion and clutch upgrade, because it was starting to leak (externally). And for anyone wondering if the "ACT extreme" are a pain in the ass to drive with due to the added pedal pressure, I'd say no. I have read countless warnings over the internet on how heavy the pedal gets and how harsh it is in stop and go traffic, but really.. It isn't all that bad, you get used to it pretty quickly and it will feel normal in a matter of days. I daily mine and it feels like a stock clutch. I have the organic street disc in mine as I wanted it to be as "stock feeling" as possible, and it is. I have an upgraded clutch in my BMW as well, and that one is a lot harder to depress although it is ment for the street. On the BMW I had to swap the organic disc out for an un-sprung 6-puck sinter for it to be able to hold the power, and that disc isn't street friendly at all.. It's shaking and screaming and doesn't like to be slipped with at all, it'll wear out much quicker than the organic would and it'll eat away on the flywheel as well, since it's basically a metal clutch. (going to swap it out for a sprunged version, to see if it'll help some) And that's the reason I went with organic disc on the Mazda. There is no reason to have a harsher clutch than what you need. The organic have worked just fine for drifting and track abuse, but we'll see once I up the boost a bit if it's still able to clamp down the power. I'm running just a mild boost at the moment. This comment became a lot longer than I thought it would, but sometimes I just can't stop writing. Hope it was informative to some. :)
I changed to a stage 1 act clutch and shifting into first while stationary is getting harder and harder as time goes. I guess i should try this before opening the tranny again. Probably the master cylinder is going out. Going to change it soon :D.
Pertinent information since my Miata locks me out of any gears unless I pump the pedal a couple times.
The symptoms you describe are spot on, and so is the how-to.
Thanks Greg!
Sick! Good luck fixing yours.
You had a great helper telling you steps.
One trick that worked for me when I had to bleed the clutch on my C5 Corvette after rebuilding the torque tube and didn't have a helper. I would pump the clutch pedal and then use a piece of wood long enough to put between the pedal and the seat rail. I'd then go under the car and open the bleeder for about 1-2 seconds, close it and then repeat. It actually worked perfectly 😂
Solo mechanic life 🤙 I've done the same exact thing 🤣
you just described the exact issue i have with my na8. now i know how to fix it and the best part is its only $20! thabks for the video keep up the good work!
I just did this yesterday also its good to check the line for cracks and check the bushing on the slave cylinder for leaks. Good Video!! Thanks Greg
Greg you are awesome, my 90 just started not wanting to engage gears and being lame so I need to either bleed the slave, or replace the slave or master so this was posted at a great time!
both my master and slave just got replaced today.... pedal did nutty things and the gears were getting harder and hrder to go into gear... but now.... alls good in NZ
Best clutch bleed video IN THE WORLD! Thanks
Thanks for that man ! Helped me out with my Nissan Navara D22. Greetings from Australia 🤙🏻
I was watching to try and figure out if this other thingy leaking was the master cylinder. Thanks
Damn the old fluid looked like chocolate milk haha. Reminds me of the brake fluid in my GF's 205z
Cursed breakfast
No longer have to shift into 3rd at 18 MPH god bless this video 🙏
Changed both my slave and master cylinder last month lol, glad both of them are cheap $20 parts and easy to install!
Hells yeah Greg you always throw of videos on stuff I'm about to do. Totally thought that was going to be way more complicated.
Saved my bacon, every video you make is super helpful!
thanks a heap. just using the clutch fluid part. my fluid boiled on a 40 degree celsius track day, need to flush out old, put in some new.
my clutch master cylinder legit just went out on my na6 thanks for video
mine did too 😂😂 that's crazy
+wyatt collins mine did too lol
Conspiracy! Big Mazda
hey guess what? mine did too!
Thanks for this video. Seems like a really easy job. I’ve been driving around pumping my clutch at every stop 😂
Just subscribed and I’ll take a look around but do you have a video of ac compressor replacement?
Man, I think I bled my clutch all wrong. I was doing it like my dad and I did brakes way back in the day. 20+ pumps, hold pedal, open bleeder, close, let go of pedal.
Going to try this way now.
dude! this is perfect my master cylinder went out yesterday!
Well done. I say replace the slave cylinder and flexible line as well. The parts are not expensive and if going to the trouble on the master, might as well do all 3 parts.
Yeah if everything is pretty old, it's a good idea for sure so you only have to bleed once.
Seems so simple but not working on my new willwood master. Need to find the problem to force air out.
I have this exact problem. Thank you so much for the explanatio. Now time too fix my 91 miata!!
Damn it Greg! I swear you ALWAYS make these videos right after I do it myself!
Well edited and knowledgeable video!
Could you do a video about replacing the brake master cilinder pls?
Solid stuff, my engine bay isn't as open as your car but I'll give it a shot!
These instructions are so clear
Another excellent video. Thanks. Looks like I have a relatively easy project on the horizon.
Does the car have to be flat at all for the bleeding to work ?
So much excellent content on this channel!
So it works the same way how you bleed the brakes right?
Great video! It is the best one out there for this process. I understood every word.. Gracias
I just did that and my clutch is still sticking halfway, and my slave cylinder and clutch master are both brand new, what do I do to make the pedal come up all of the way with pressure
good work nice and clear and easy to follow mate.
hey Greg can you make a tutorial on how to install the ecu switches that you have for the ecu
Do you have to buy one of those black tubes to bleed it?
You keep it closed, have helper pump then hold pedal, then you crack it open. Now you close the bleeder and repeat.
hey did you have to adjust the clutch at all after? i’m not getting any fluid out when bleeding!
at 2:18, my CMC isnt sucking in any new fluid into the cylinder, should i return it for a new one?
Nice work, man. Not that I'm solved yet, but..... in lieu of replacing master cylinder, this quick question subsequent to replacing slave cylinder..... but unable to bleed to point of getting pedal back:
03 Hyundai Accent...... leaked clutch fluid in very cold temperatures. I'd refill and bleed, be good a couple days. Finally quit, replaced slave, have had NO luck bleeding. There IS an air bubble in lower stage of reservoir, but I can't "burp it"..... it's stuck against left side. When I fill reservoir to top to bleed, I get one pedal push of a tiny bit of resistance, then no resistance even pumping a hundred times. Whether that bubble is of any consequence...??
The important question, though:
Looking down at slave cylinder from front, I can push the clutch release bearing lever to the left (toward right fender) against pushrod...... that would compress the spring behind slave's piston. The lever does return to position, so spring works and piston moves freely..... BUT..... shouldn't that bearing's lever be pressing hard to left against pushrod, awaiting pressure from pushrod???
This has got me worried on little budget...... thanks in advance for any ideas.....
Do you fill it up at the end?
Greg the kinda guy to replace a clutch alone but to require a helper to bleed the clutch lines.
I've done it my myself as well. Long vacuum line to the slave bleeder, pump the clutch with your finger over the tip of the line to act as a "1-way valve" of sorts. Using the other hand to pump the clutch pedal 🙂
@@TheCarPassionChannel Hah it's all good I'm a big noob btw I just found the thought funny. I tried bleeding the lines earlier by wedging a tennis racket in there but I think I was doing something wrong elsewhere I think. I noticed you left the clutch master's lid open during, maybe that's where I f***** up. Would it make a difference? This was done after replacing the master and slave btw.
Great video! Easy to follow along!
The video was very helpful to me thank you
Good video w/ clear instructions.
I've changed mine before but i think i bled it wrong. I pressed clutch THEN opened bleeder. I think i may still have some air in the system so i need to redo the bleeding using the order you recommend here.
That way works also, I just don't like to build a bunch of pressure in the system before opening the bleeder because the hose can pop off, etc. As long as the bleeder it closed before the clutch comes up off the floor.
Awesome help bro, exactly what I wanted to know
Great video, just did it on my 510
damn right. shifting like a champ now! thanks for the vid!
thanks for the video bro 🤟🏼
Great content Bro! Thank you! Very helpful
Question: I sometimes feel a bit of a clunk-grind going from 1st to 2nd. If I just simply double pump the clutch it shifts fine. I am not talking about traditional double-clutching/sync shifting. Just going to neutral first, pumping the clutch once then pumping a 2nd time to make the shift to 2nd gear and it is always smooth. I see no leaking at the slave. I am thinking my master cylinder is bad but wanted your thought. My fluid is dark. The tranny only has 100K on it. I don't want this to be a bad transmission!
Don't know if youve solved this by now but I would bleed the clutch and replace both the slave and the master just to eliminate all the possible options in that field.
Just got the parts. I am optimistic that I have fluid leaking back past the seals. I sure appreciate your thoughts.
I love how you keep the videos entertaining!
That's my favorite part! (May have gone a little overboard for tomorrows video though... lol)
Greg Peters for president!
That was perfect honestly
I see where the bleeder valve is now. I thought I would have been on the driver's side, but now I know.
Great video. Thanks.
Thanks for the video, it was helpful!
How tall are you? Just wondering, I'm 6 ft and about to buy a first gen Miata just wondering how comfy I'll be. I know I can put bucket seats in so I sit lower and I can get an aftermarket steering wheel. Just wondering how you fit
im 6ft as well. best thing i can say is on the first gen do a foamectomy take out an inch or so and it helped tons. seats are still comfy but now my view is directly in the center of the windshield. best of luck!
if you google foamectomy or tall person mods, or search it on the forms you'll find a couple simple things you can do to help, if you find you dont have quite enough room
6,4ft or 1,93cm here, sitting fine. Not much room above my head and my legs almost hit the steering wheel but I've driven my NA6 for a couple of months and I'm used to it now. Did the foamectomy, that helped! Greg has a video about that but cut the hump on the bottom part of the seat, don't take foam from the top! Good luck
I'm 6ft-21/2" and fit just fine, I did do the foamectomy but regardless have room in untouched passenger seat.
I do find that with the seat back where I like it the steering wheel is a bit farther away then I would have liked.
Do you have to replace the cylinder or can you bleed it and refill it?????? Someone help
DUDE! My car is literally getting this repaired today. I didn't know how to do it/didn't want to mess it up so I took it to a mechanic :\
Dang man I was a day too late :/
I hopefully wont have to do this with my 62,000 mile Miata. Everything works so its good!!!!!
Excellent! It's just what i'm gonna do in my car thanks this will help a lot ;)
Haha! I had this last week. Funny.
What size tubing to bleed it with?
Super helpful thanks man!
literally the week after I replaced mine :-p
I'll be doing this today thank u
You should go to drift night at atoms Motorsport park on the 25
thanks for this vid.
My miata blew up after doing some broke and boosted. Ka-boom. Oh wells, good thing miata engines are cheap lol. ROUND 2. BOOST.
huge thanks man ! legend
nice video, very clear!
Unfortunately the nut of the hydraulic line is too soft. I cant turn it.. any tipps?
A flare nut wrench should be used if it's too tight, but if that can't handle it you may need to use a vice grip. In the past I've been able to do this without damaging the nut too much to be reused. Make sure to spray it with penetrating oil like PB Blaster and let it sit for a while before attempting to loosen it again too
@@TheCarPassionChannel oh that was a fast answer!
I just bought a set of flare nut ranches which should be delivered tomorrow.
We sprayed the nut with WD40.
I'll hope for the best.
Thank you!
Helped me out. Thanks.
Plz Greg 300zx content. I would really love to see that content
I replaced the the master cylinder on my clutch.
Now I'm about to replace the Slave cylinder on my clutch.
Question can a bad clutch master cause your car to not start ?
No
My truck will just rev when I step on the gas in higher gears. If I don’t step on gas to much it will slowly gain speed, but once I give gas harder it will just rev. Do you you think it is just clutch, or clutch cylinders. Or transmission
That sounds 100% like the clutch is slipping. Could be due to pedal adjustment, but most likely just worn out.
TheCarPassionChannel ok thanks. You think that changing the cylinders will work, or should i just change clutch
@@BIGTIMAH808 It's not really possible for the slave or master to force the clutch to slip. It won't hurt to change them, but that's typically not the issue