Plus Size Fashion 2: Rants, Design, & Construction
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- Опубликовано: 25 ноя 2023
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The plus size fashion market is treated like such trash, I always end up ranting about some aspect or another whenever I start talking about it! Again I go over 5 DOs and 1 DON'T when it comes to plus size fashion design and construction. And yes, design and construction are so intrinsically linked, I can't helped up discuss them together.
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I recently made a loose fitting jacket by Vogue patterns. They need to realize that plus size people’s wrists and heads are not huge. The envelope clearly showed a fitted cuff but the cuff on the pattern was nowhere close to human size. Thanks for ranting for plus size people 😊
I hate a sloppy cuff! Just put an extra pleat or tuck next to the placket! Ugh.
It's amazing how there is this idea that the body increases all over as we gain weight. Computer programs think everything just increases exponentially and I wonder if the people creating the patternmaking programs understand how anatomy works, which by the way isn't taught in pattern making classes. I had to learn that for myself.
Sewing patterns these days are just awful in so many ways and require far too much alteration from the original pattern that you could make clothing patterns more easily from scratch. Don't even get me started on the seam allowance and ease.
I only use sewing patterns for inspiration, as I make my own patterns. I love the vintage ones for the illustrations on the front of the envelope. We could have our own rant about lack of seam allowance. I would be interested to know if it is Big 4 or Indie patterns that you find awful? @@rivitraven
@@nataliechim5227If I had been the one ranting about seam allowance and ease - and I absolutely do...
Big 4 patterns don't do a good job of communicating the ease built into the pattern. I shouldn't need to measure the pattern pieces to figure out how it compares to the body measurement. Just tell me!
And the seam allowances are simply wrong. I know if my fabric frays, how I want to finish my seams, and if I want to leave room for future alterations. Just give me the pattern net - without seam allowance. That way I'm tracing the stitching line the part that actually needs to be accurate (and so much easier than following a line on the throat plate, no gadgets needed) and cut the additional seam allowance as suits my purposes. It doesn't even need to be that accurate. As the instructions will often suggest trimming the seam allowance down anyway. It's just silliness.
I only purchase pattens from 2nd hand shops for 50 cents or less, so I can see how something works.
You want things to fit,create your own bodice block.
Love the tiara.👑
Thanks!
Omg yessss thank you for saying this!!!! I have thought this for a long time, not even pajamas specifically, but anything oversized on me looks “sloppy” or dirty and messy, when a thin girl can do it and it’s acceptable. But then if I wear something too form fitting then I must be delusional and should be embarrassed of myself🤣 A conversation needed to have, thank you!
The double standards are ridiculousssss. One of the projects I've always wanted to make time for was to start a blog called, "Stylish or Just Skinny".
@@zoehongteaches I would 100% read that blog 😊
Preach, Zoe! Additional plus size rant... plus petite should still be petite. It's like designers think we can't be short and fluffy.
Indeed! I mentioned that in the first plus video, but we should just keep talking about it until someone does something about it hahahaha
I think petite refers to short bird-boned women (think Nancy Regan). Back in the day they had half-sized clothing. It was for short women who had a normal-boned frame. I’d love to have options for us short people.
Oh yeah! I am 5’1 but i can’t anything in petite because my hips are 39”. Nothing fits because petite are only people with child-like body frame 😂
Plus size here! I'm new to sewing but I am interested in making my own clothing. I find it all fascinating. Thanks for giving great perspectives.
You're welcome!
Thankyou, Thankyou, Thankyou, finally someone needed to say this about making clothes for plus size people as a designer I have been making clothes for big beautiful black women because when I went to fashion school there were no women that I knew who wore a size 1 and then they went to size zero and then double zero. All of this new sizing through me for a loop. I had always considered myself a men's wear designer so when someone said that they were a size 40 jacket you knew that their chest was that size or when they said that their waist was a 32 you knew it was the waist measurement. So when a client told me she was a size 0 I thought she was joking so when she came over so that I could take her measurements I had to explain that the size she had given me meant nothing because depending on the manufacture or designer they put an arbitrary size number on their garments to make you believe your smaller than what you are so that women would jump from one designer to another depending who gave them the smaller size that fit them even though they hadn't lose any weight . As I had to explain to my client when I took her measurements, I explained it by not only telling her but also showing her on mt tape measure then it was like a light bulb went off in her head as she got what I was saying to her. I am also of the school that PJ's should not be worn outside by any adult or children who can dress themselves.
The sizing this is called "vanity sizing". And it truly is an apt naming convention given the thought of switching brand loyalty based on which brand tells you you're skinnier is quite wild to me, but also I've fallen for marketing before so I have no room to judge others going through their own body stuff.
Thank you for your service as a busty black woman who feels ever ignored when shopping for clothing.
100% - I hate when I see clothes marked up just because they’re ’plus sized’. Would love to see some construction examples of how to do the gussets
I have to price them up, when using 60-500 usd/yard fabrics as a small maker (not to mention all the notions, lining, interfacing, boning, canvassing, beading). Pattern sizing for plus sizes is also costly,it has to be done by a specialist. It's either sell them more expensive or just not make any,at all, ever.
I came across an open source zero waste pattern that used off cut fabric for gussets. Elevated the stiff underarm fit of most zero waste tunics
Thank you for this plus size info, especially the rants! 💖
>zero waste pattern that used off cut fabric for gussets
Fantastic!
Yes to the baggy thing for plus. I can't find an oversized cozy sweater. Also, I have 2 dresses that are sewn together tubes, but they fit me pretty well.
The fabric usage thing drives me NUTS! It's one of the reasons I just completely stopped looking for things on etsy.
GOOD MORNING!!!! Thank you for the information. I do agree with the gusset needed in the garment. I do dressmaking and alterations for my customers as a side hustle. I noticed both small to large person needed gussets for their garments for comfort and movement. Keep up the good work and have a wonderful day and stay CREATIVE 😊 Robin N.Otis-Clayborne
It's always a good morning when you drop me one of your delightful comments, Robin! Have a great day!
Great video! Thank you for sharing your knowledge in such a easy to listen and enjoyable yet educational way! ❤
Hi Zoe !!!! Thank you for keepin it real & 100 !!!! Love u !!!!
Thanks for another wonderful video, Ms. Zoe!!
You widen my horizons!!!❤❤❤
You are so welcome!
I really appreciate this video, and I would love to see more like this please. Thank you!
Thank you thank you thank you for that last dont, Zoey!! its ridiculous to charge differently based on size!!! it makes me tear out my hair when I see that!! its like companies are indirectly telling plus sized customers that they have the "wrong kind of body" and punish them by charging more. That should be illegal.
I need more about this subject 👍🥰🥰🥰 Thanks so much 🥰🥰
More rant pls! So refreshing.
When you were describing the princess seams i wish you showed us clothings as examples. But i learned a lot and in particular when you described the range of motion with the blazer
Can we have the link to that, Tiara? Omg! Gorgeous! ❤
😂 Zoe, your crown is just something
This video called me out as I am knitting my stretchy tubes to be sewn together while watching this 💀💀💀
Thanks for the great video!
If you don't want your loose fitting look to look like depression couture - adding a cool belt/jewellery/glasses/hat/scarf and a cool lipstick can salvage a lot of looks. Notice how the "models off duty" looks differ from "Walmart parking lot vagrant" often only in accessories (and of course, price of the items..).
Love your rants Zoe. Especially agree with the having the fit correct even on oversized garments. Thanks for debunking the fabric usage myth on larger size clothing.
Glad it was helpful!
ooh i love gussets. mainly bc i am sweaty but also i find them v useful. most modern take on traditional clothes removed them.
We have seen different Star Treks. In OS ladies' dress they had around 6 triangular panels both front and back.
In my opinion, side darts for us bustier girls are awful. Yet, probably for cost cutting, there are often awkward side darts, making me look bigger than I am...
Amen to that rant Zoe 🙌
Really interesting! I sew; main fitting issue is a built-in bustle! Big gripe... especially for the Big 4; why am I taller as a size US 16 (ish), woman of 52, than I was as a US size 12 (ish) woman of 24?
Really dislike the straight up-and-down stretchy tubes that seem to be the current fashion... my favourite coat pattern so far is the M6800, which has both shoulder princess and armhole princess panels front and back, and a glorious sweep (modified it to be full length all around).
I would like to add my rant...just because I am busty and not a size 4 doesn't mean I have massive shoulders like a linebacker or am 8 feet tall 😕 AND the majority of women around the world are under 5'4"; however designers either do not make a petite line, stores do not offer petite sizes, or if they do what is offered is ugly, dowdy, and boxy.
Algo and morrrrrrre plus size stuff please¼!!
I ❤❤❤❤ the crown. Beautiful. 😊
Thanks!
Loved this! Did I miss a video about gussets and how to measure them??
I learned so much in these two videos. I only want to make clothes for my own beautiful body that will make my body and soul sing. I took a long break from buying clothes and I really can't go back to fast fashion. So I need training in learning how to construct but also how to purchase the raw materials in a way that's good for the environment. Where do I start? and wrap around pants? yes, please.
Let us bigger girls be pretty! A lot of plus size fashion is very unflattering, hide the complete figure instead of highlighting good areas (boobs, waist, calves...) very often, a fifties silhouette works very well. Also, let us wear colour!
I'm plus size and have health issues that make it difficult to lose weight. I have a hard time fitting myself. I asked questions on a FB group and was told rather than think about clothes I needed to think about losing weight. So, what plus size aren't supposed to wear clothes?
I love your sparkling crown! Where di you get it?
My new favorite word..."floopy"!
Thank you for this video! I love learning from you! Question: How would someone wanting to build a small brand find fabrics at better prices rather than retail prices?
Tradeshows for wholesale fabric reps.
I agree, adults need to stop going out in their pajamas, regardless of their size or gender.
Great video. Question about the math part: how does it work when net a porter sells the same Alexander McQueen dress for the same price on their website? What pricing agreements have been made then? Does AMcQ just make extra profit when they sell it through their own website? Thanks for explaining Zoe!
That portion goes into McQueen's own store management and e-commerce. Whether they make more profit is a matter of how well they manage their stores and sites but yes, there should be some, and that's one of the reasons why brands are eager to have their own storefronts.
This is actually an issue with direct to consumer brands. In their eagerness to be cheaper than wholesale brands, they forget they need to pay for their own sites, extra marketing, sales team etc.
It's generally understood that brands shouldn't undercut the stores they sell wholesale to, because then the stores won't want to buy from the brands anymore.
Thanks very much Zoe!
I don't care what size you are, male or female, pyjamas and slip-flops should only be worn after dinner and before breakfast in your own homes. There is something called lounge wear, people.😂
❤❤🎉🎉
Did you move to LA
Not yet
❤️you are fab😉yes please, more of these videos...also, hope your husband is well❤️🩹
He's improving every day, thank you!
@@zoehongteaches ❤️
Hello, I would love to become a shoe and jewelry designer, but I don’t know where to start. Can you help me with an idea?
Hello ma'am
I have been seeing you for so long
I have a question can you please tell me "What's the most important skill to become a successful fashion designer?"
Reply ma'am
What’s a bbL ????
Big Booty Lift