So happy to see Kingsbury faithfully reproduced in HO scale. I always enjoyed walking the real thing a decade ago while waiting for my wife to get out of work…
Again your pavement work ,side walks , curbs ect. is some of the best I have ever seen, now you have me going back through every photo and book I have on down town Milwaukee? and the Beer line circa late 20's early 30's in 0 scale
@@DubaiTrains I just spent the last 15 minutes trying to find a vendor in the US that sells the N scale versions. But it looks like I am going to need to special order them. I have a team track that I am going to pave as street running, but using the cobblestones would be more realistic for the time and area.
That’s a lot of work. And a lot more to come. But the cobblestones are just set in sand. Nevertheless it looks perfect. Oh ja. Fijne Feestdagen gewenst! 🎄
Generally, cobblestones and bricks used for paving did not have mortar, expensive and more time. They were laid on sand for bedding and I think sand was swept over them for filler. To break up brick and cobblestone paving, take an area that was obviously dug out for an inground repair and either reset the cobblestones or bricks or even use asphalt as a cheaper and quicker patch. I have seen this in real life many times and places. Flangeways in crossings and paved tracks tend to fill with dirt and trash. Track in pavement, particularly before WWII, would have been laid with what is called girder or flanged rail which has an integral flangeway with the head and is taller than regular Tee rail. Turnouts in the pavement with girder rails don't need guard rails and the points are generally shorter than usual switch points with many hand-throw mechanisms in boxes with covers to be level with the pavement surface. The switch-throw mechanisms were to the trackside or between the rails if clearances were tight. Switches were of the single-point and twin-point variety. Think of streetcar track beefed up.
Thanks for the addition. Agreed that the cobblestones don't have mortar. In order to model sand that was swept in, I used mortar as it can be fixed with water.
@@DubaiTrains Tyler has an old area with brick-paved streets that do not have mortar in the joints. When I was working in St. Louis, some streets around our office were dug up that had been paved with bricks and no mortar. Those bricks were larger than the usual building bricks and heavier also.
Bricks is again something entirely different. That is something you don't see modelled often. As they say, there is a prototype for everything! Looking at the kingsbury branch that I use as a reference, I see every type of road except bricks.
With electrofrog switches do I need insulated rail jointers for the inside rails that are arrow pointing into the switch so when I connect my frog juicer it wont have a short? I have tried contacting tam valley, dealers, ebay dealers and nobody knows the answer its making me want to get rid of the hobby entirely because no one has the most simpliest answer for me like a yes or no "well i don't know what your doing" Im connecting a switch with a frog juicer "look up the tam valley..." omg i did that it doesnt make sense because the image they show is showing the x in the frog do i connect it to the top right left bottem right left or middle of that x?
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Great Job. Looking forward to seeing all the detail work completed. Lots of work, looking great. Mike HO from Australia.
Thanks. Always a lot to do !
So happy to see Kingsbury faithfully reproduced in HO scale. I always enjoyed walking the real thing a decade ago while waiting for my wife to get out of work…
Great to see you like it. I guess we all have our reasons!
There is still a lot left to do.
That Juweela pavement stuff looks great!
Thanks.
Again your pavement work ,side walks , curbs ect. is some of the best I have ever seen, now you have me going back through every photo and book I have on down town Milwaukee? and the Beer line circa late 20's early 30's in 0 scale
Thanks David for the kind words. I can't wait to put some chalks on the roads and to add some final details.
Thanks for sharing the maker of those cobblestones. Time to check out and see if they make them down in N scale.
I think they do have some N scale products. Not sure if they have cobblestones that small!
Real nice good job
Thanks Bernice.
Wow, the results are stunning, that looks fantastic.
Thanks HJ. There is still a lot of detailing left to do, but I'm happy thus far!
@@DubaiTrains I just spent the last 15 minutes trying to find a vendor in the US that sells the N scale versions. But it looks like I am going to need to special order them.
I have a team track that I am going to pave as street running, but using the cobblestones would be more realistic for the time and area.
I had to get the cobblestones from Germany as well. It is a costly product but well worth it. 1 cent per cobblestone in HO scale 😂
@@DubaiTrains yikes on the pricing, but look fantastic.
I am finding dealers for 1:87 scale, but not their 1:160 scale products.
That’s a lot of work. And a lot more to come. But the cobblestones are just set in sand. Nevertheless it looks perfect.
Oh ja. Fijne Feestdagen gewenst! 🎄
Merry Christmas to you and happy new year
Thank you.
Generally, cobblestones and bricks used for paving did not have mortar, expensive and more time. They were laid on sand for bedding and I think sand was swept over them for filler. To break up brick and cobblestone paving, take an area that was obviously dug out for an inground repair and either reset the cobblestones or bricks or even use asphalt as a cheaper and quicker patch. I have seen this in real life many times and places.
Flangeways in crossings and paved tracks tend to fill with dirt and trash.
Track in pavement, particularly before WWII, would have been laid with what is called girder or flanged rail which has an integral flangeway with the head and is taller than regular Tee rail. Turnouts in the pavement with girder rails don't need guard rails and the points are generally shorter than usual switch points with many hand-throw mechanisms in boxes with covers to be level with the pavement surface. The switch-throw mechanisms were to the trackside or between the rails if clearances were tight. Switches were of the single-point and twin-point variety. Think of streetcar track beefed up.
Thanks for the addition. Agreed that the cobblestones don't have mortar. In order to model sand that was swept in, I used mortar as it can be fixed with water.
@@DubaiTrains Tyler has an old area with brick-paved streets that do not have mortar in the joints.
When I was working in St. Louis, some streets around our office were dug up that had been paved with bricks and no mortar. Those bricks were larger than the usual building bricks and heavier also.
Bricks is again something entirely different. That is something you don't see modelled often. As they say, there is a prototype for everything!
Looking at the kingsbury branch that I use as a reference, I see every type of road except bricks.
With electrofrog switches do I need insulated rail jointers for the inside rails that are arrow pointing into the switch so when I connect my frog juicer it wont have a short? I have tried contacting tam valley, dealers, ebay dealers and nobody knows the answer its making me want to get rid of the hobby entirely because no one has the most simpliest answer for me like a yes or no "well i don't know what your doing" Im connecting a switch with a frog juicer "look up the tam valley..." omg i did that it doesnt make sense because the image they show is showing the x in the frog do i connect it to the top right left bottem right left or middle of that x?
I am not seeing what you are looking at. But i guess the X is the frog. Make sure the frog is not electrically connected to any other rail.
@@DubaiTrains I went and took off my inside jointers and the train works no shorts just have to wait on plastic jointers so the track can stay in line