Great question, the dry pack allows you to create the slope required for the water to drain properly; for example, the dry pack was 6” - I made the perimeter 1/8” higher than edge of the tray, just enough to abide by the required 1/4” slope required for each linear foot
@@markme4 Dry pack is tried and true but the synthetic pans are the future. These shower systems really minimize future failure. Then there’s no need to get pre mix or sharp sand and type 1 cement to mix and take time to prep and float the pan. Those synthetic pre fab pans are really nice to work with, especially now I’m getting older in the trade. I prefer not to throw around heavy bags of pre mix or cement, 20 years ago no problem. Now no problem but it sucks.
in theory they are great systems but also ripped out 2 recently in new construction that leaked b/c of minor install flaws but major issues once used..
When you install the top piece of the drain you will see three "weep holes" which wicks the water towards the drain when & ONLY WHEN YOU HAVE PROPERLY SLOOPED THE PAN TO THE TOP LEVEL OF THE Bottom OF THE FIXED IN PLACE DRAIN!!! AN IMPORTANT PART OF LONGEVITY TO YOUR PANS MOISTURE BARRIER! IT WOULD BEHOVE YOU TO LEARN HOW TO ACTUALLY DO THE TASK PROPERLY BEFORE YOU MAKE A HOW TO VIDEO!!! Ps asphalt roofing shingles can be layered and stepped to bring your work up to the standard of building codes bc here in calif building inspectors in the know often pull the plug upon top out inspection being completed before signing off on top out inspection!
I appreciate your comment, however, the Schluter KERDI-DRAIN has no weep holes. It is a bonding flange style drain. The drain is solvent welded to the 2” PVC or ABS and made to be level. Then, when the shower tray is installed, a KERDI ring is bonded to the drain flange and tray with 2” overlap. This waterproofs the shower to drain connection. Again, there are no weep holes with the KERDI-DRAIN, and that’s one huge reason I recommend it and use Schluter.
You're gonna have to invest more time than watching a 30 second RUclips short to learn how to do this stuff. Don't bombard this guy with silly questions he's busy. Jesus.
@kevinr3263 Kevin Kevin Kevin. Just a lil will do I'm just helping with his content 😌 giving them more things to talk about , time is the last thing you have , with family and your father died in Afghanistan, just need a few quick tips , the books I have are about medicine and one day I'll be a great dr. Just like my dad was, but till then.
I've been doing custom tile and shower work since the mid 90s. Are you a certified Schlutër installer? can you explain why the kerdi on the walls were installed first and not after the pan was installed.
I appreciate your comment, I’ve been trained by Schluter, attended several workshops, received Schluter certificates, and actively consult my reps - I’m not paid by Schluter or any other waterproofing company. You can install the walls first or the tray, it’s the installer’s choice. I prefer to add the walls so that I’m not walking on the tray or accidentally dropping screws on it. Then I waterproof everything and have 2” of overlap at the seams and screws per the handbooks.
@@keithstewart7514 I appreciate your comments, but the floor has to be level for a prefab shower tray. The Schluter tray being used is pre-sloped so water will drain properly. Hence the use of the self-leveler. I also replied to your other comment that inferred the Schluter KERDI-DRAIN has weep holes; it does not have weep holes. Are you familiar with how Schluter works?
In the directions they actually state to do walls first then use banding to make the corners waterproof. It’s so counter intuitive. They are very confident in their system. It works if you have no gaps between layers and your thin set mix is wet enough. You must use their modified thinset. The next day i trowel another layer of thinset over all the banding to smooth it out and protect the waterproofing. Some guys coat the pan with Ardex 8+9 afterwards for more protection.
They make a large variety of tray sizes but most supply houses carry them all. You might have to order one big enough and pitched the correct direction for you drain location.
If someone is good you can wet set and do everything in one day. For many many decades and moons waterproofing was not done on shower pans. We used to float pans then set immediately right after. The bond of it all drying together is super strong. The problem if one tries without experience is if you don’t pay attention to how you trowel you can cause a suction with the thin set and pull a big chunk of the mud up. Also when you set a tile and you need to take it out it will pull the wet mud. So basically it’s no bueno for a beginner. Edit….. a topical waterproofing wasn’t done, obviously there was a rubber membrane under the mud or out west they would do a hot job method, which I have zero experience with.
@@wasntme3651 Agreed, the last shower I did I finally made the switch from the slow process of preslope, vinyl membrane and then dry pack. Went with the kerdi and did immediate waterproof though my kerdi pan was large enough not to need dry pack edge. I will never go back, it was awesome to do in one day what normally took two to 3.
@@azmav75 It’s so much more convenient and easy on the body compared to all the heavy lifting. I came up in a mud box as a kid mixing and carrying batch after batch for a couple setters. I think Kerdi offers a lifetime warranty if installed using all their products. If not lifetime it’s a long warranty and that to me is worth a lot. I’ve seen so many failures with mud pans and wood curbs over the years, it’s primarily where showers fail from my experience.
I've been doing tile for 36 years. Most of my other tiles friends And myself stop using Kerdi.. Too many issues after a couple years. It's just a bad system. 80% the time it leaks After 12 to 24 months. So all of a stop using it. 2 of my friends are in a class action lawsuit Against Kerdi. They do not warrant either work. They love blaming the tiles setter To get out of the warranty
I appreciate your comment, understand that you can use All-Set for this application per the Schluter Handbook, hence the name All-Set for either waterproofing or for setting tile for Schluter Showers
@@HomeRepairTutor Thanks for that info. I’m only familiar with the un-modified stuff HD sells. And only the Schulter videos. I’ve seen some horrific failure videos of contractors who unwittingly used modified thinset on the Kerdi boards and membranes.
I disagree because Mapei specifically says to let the 4-to-1 cure before waterproofing it; if you choose to ignore the manufacturer’s instructions then you’re also taking on any liability of failure down the road
![[TF2] The Russian Bear Trap](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YFNSwz2_rOA/mqdefault.jpg)
Standing on it is important after setting the pan or else it will sound hollow after tile is installed. Glad you pointed that out.
Foam always sounds hollow.
That shower looks good man
I’m a beginner: Why the dry pack? Wouldn’t you just add more kurdi board and patch the seam?
Great question, the dry pack allows you to create the slope required for the water to drain properly; for example, the dry pack was 6” - I made the perimeter 1/8” higher than edge of the tray, just enough to abide by the required 1/4” slope required for each linear foot
@@HomeRepairTutor ohhh I see. So instead of wasting a whole nother Kerdi base, you can just continue that one
Why not dry pack the entire pan ?
@@markme4
Dry pack is tried and true but the synthetic pans are the future. These shower systems really minimize future failure. Then there’s no need to get pre mix or sharp sand and type 1 cement to mix and take time to prep and float the pan. Those synthetic pre fab pans are really nice to work with, especially now I’m getting older in the trade. I prefer not to throw around heavy bags of pre mix or cement, 20 years ago no problem. Now no problem but it sucks.
@@wasntme3651 Hot mop and dry pack if you want to avoid future failure.
Best way to water proof? Use a Kohler porcelain enameled cast iron shower pan.
Haven't used Kerdi before but glad I saw this as I want to move towards using it and have only ever done custom sized showers. Thanks!
in theory they are great systems but also ripped out 2 recently in new construction that leaked b/c of minor install flaws but major issues once used..
Care and craftsmanship are important for success or they leak. Great system if you do it right.
When you install the top piece of the drain you will see three "weep holes" which wicks the water towards the drain when & ONLY WHEN YOU HAVE PROPERLY SLOOPED THE PAN TO THE TOP LEVEL OF THE Bottom OF THE FIXED IN PLACE DRAIN!!! AN IMPORTANT PART OF LONGEVITY TO YOUR PANS MOISTURE BARRIER! IT WOULD BEHOVE YOU TO LEARN HOW TO ACTUALLY DO THE TASK PROPERLY
BEFORE
YOU
MAKE
A
HOW TO VIDEO!!! Ps asphalt roofing shingles can be layered and stepped to bring your work up to the standard of building codes bc here in calif building inspectors in the know often pull the plug upon top out inspection being completed before signing off on top out inspection!
I appreciate your comment, however, the Schluter KERDI-DRAIN has no weep holes. It is a bonding flange style drain. The drain is solvent welded to the 2” PVC or ABS and made to be level. Then, when the shower tray is installed, a KERDI ring is bonded to the drain flange and tray with 2” overlap. This waterproofs the shower to drain connection. Again, there are no weep holes with the KERDI-DRAIN, and that’s one huge reason I recommend it and use Schluter.
Check out Rodkat based out of SLC we'll cut a tray that fits😉
Explain the word u use
Dry pack
Screed
Float
???
Dry pack just refers to Mapei 4-to-1 mud bed mix or something similar. It’s used to build Shower trays
@@HomeRepairTutor is it like dry mix concrete for posts? Just add water to it?
You're gonna have to invest more time than watching a 30 second RUclips short to learn how to do this stuff. Don't bombard this guy with silly questions he's busy. Jesus.
@kevinr3263 Kevin Kevin Kevin. Just a lil will do I'm just helping with his content 😌 giving them more things to talk about , time is the last thing you have , with family and your father died in Afghanistan, just need a few quick tips , the books I have are about medicine and one day I'll be a great dr. Just like my dad was, but till then.
I've been doing custom tile and shower work since the mid 90s. Are you a certified Schlutër installer? can you explain why the kerdi on the walls were installed first and not after the pan was installed.
I appreciate your comment, I’ve been trained by Schluter, attended several workshops, received Schluter certificates, and actively consult my reps - I’m not paid by Schluter or any other waterproofing company. You can install the walls first or the tray, it’s the installer’s choice. I prefer to add the walls so that I’m not walking on the tray or accidentally dropping screws on it. Then I waterproof everything and have 2” of overlap at the seams and screws per the handbooks.
@@HomeRepairTutor Oh
This man is not a professional bc the floor must be SLOOPED to the top edge of the bottom piece of the drain,!
@@keithstewart7514 I appreciate your comments, but the floor has to be level for a prefab shower tray. The Schluter tray being used is pre-sloped so water will drain properly. Hence the use of the self-leveler. I also replied to your other comment that inferred the Schluter KERDI-DRAIN has weep holes; it does not have weep holes. Are you familiar with how Schluter works?
In the directions they actually state to do walls first then use banding to make the corners waterproof. It’s so counter intuitive. They are very confident in their system. It works if you have no gaps between layers and your thin set mix is wet enough. You must use their modified thinset. The next day i trowel another layer of thinset over all the banding to smooth it out and protect the waterproofing. Some guys coat the pan with Ardex 8+9 afterwards for more protection.
Great job
Beautiful
I wish schluter would make base extentions. I hate using dry pack for big extentions.
They make a large variety of tray sizes but most supply houses carry them all. You might have to order one big enough and pitched the correct direction for you drain location.
Learn to float mud much easier faster and definitely lasts longer
I use the best stuff in the market. Gaco UB64 or CIM 1000... Will be there forever....
According to kerdi videos, you don't even have to let the drypak cure, waterproof can go over the top immediately.
If someone is good you can wet set and do everything in one day. For many many decades and moons waterproofing was not done on shower pans. We used to float pans then set immediately right after. The bond of it all drying together is super strong.
The problem if one tries without experience is if you don’t pay attention to how you trowel you can cause a suction with the thin set and pull a big chunk of the mud up. Also when you set a tile and you need to take it out it will pull the wet mud. So basically it’s no bueno for a beginner.
Edit….. a topical waterproofing wasn’t done, obviously there was a rubber membrane under the mud or out west they would do a hot job method, which I have zero experience with.
@@wasntme3651 Agreed, the last shower I did I finally made the switch from the slow process of preslope, vinyl membrane and then dry pack. Went with the kerdi and did immediate waterproof though my kerdi pan was large enough not to need dry pack edge. I will never go back, it was awesome to do in one day what normally took two to 3.
@@azmav75
It’s so much more convenient and easy on the body compared to all the heavy lifting. I came up in a mud box as a kid mixing and carrying batch after batch for a couple setters. I think Kerdi offers a lifetime warranty if installed using all their products. If not lifetime it’s a long warranty and that to me is worth a lot. I’ve seen so many failures with mud pans and wood curbs over the years, it’s primarily where showers fail from my experience.
When did a 100% dry pack need to be covered in foam board
Yeah what he said
I've been doing tile for 36 years. Most of my other tiles friends And myself stop using Kerdi.. Too many issues after a couple years. It's just a bad system. 80% the time it leaks After 12 to 24 months. So all of a stop using it. 2 of my friends are in a class action lawsuit Against Kerdi. They do not warrant either work. They love blaming the tiles setter To get out of the warranty
I noticed you used modified thinset
The Schulter videos go to great lengths to stress the importance of using UN-Modified thinsrt.
I appreciate your comment, understand that you can use All-Set for this application per the Schluter Handbook, hence the name All-Set for either waterproofing or for setting tile for Schluter Showers
@@HomeRepairTutor
Thanks for that info.
I’m only familiar with the un-modified stuff HD sells. And only the Schulter videos.
I’ve seen some horrific failure videos of contractors who unwittingly used modified thinset on the Kerdi boards and membranes.
Nice 👍
this looks suspect. i would think adding a drypack would void the warranty. either do it all with kerdi or a continous drypack
Schluter recommends to this or buy a extension piece
I have to do exactly this. What’s the dry pac mix?
It’s Mapei 4-to-1 Mud Bed Mix 👍🏼
❤❤
Boy ya did that all wrong ya dont have to worry bout letting it cure just waterproof it and start laying tile
I disagree because Mapei specifically says to let the 4-to-1 cure before waterproofing it; if you choose to ignore the manufacturer’s instructions then you’re also taking on any liability of failure down the road
Schluter will fail.
Is that your real voice or is that a robo thing?
Sigh
Wtf
roflmao