It's Tech Tuesday time! Today we are looking at Oxygen Sensors and Wideband O2 Controllers. Why you need them and what's the difference between wideband and narrowband. All explained in this short yet very informative video. Keep in mind these videos are only meant to cover the basics. If you would like us to expand on any part of this topic let us know in the comments section and we'll do a full-length "Technically Speaking" video on it:)
Quickly becoming one of the best Aussie car tech channels on RUclips 👌🏻. Would love to see a video of what it’s like to upgrade a TPI chev / injected Aussie 304 with today’s tech.
great things, but they introduce more errors if you have xs air or some water getting into the exhaust. Yes, I know this shouldn't happen, but in the real world with cars driven daily (sometimes hard) and not fettled every weekend, it happens. Then your mixture is all over the place (but only at low power/closed loop). If old-school ECUs are set up to run open loop at high power, but closed loop at low power, why not run open loop all the time? MAP, IAT, ECT are all measured and fuel/ign adjusted from the tables anyway, which can be tweaked? Just trying tyo remove a source of errors and time chasing them down. (dual IAW ECUs, odd-fire bi-turbo V6 that is a pain to remove).
If I recall from my old Nissan days, narrow band used on the US S13 where even dumber than what you described. If I recall correctly, it was either high or low depending on the AFR. Meaning if it was high if the mixture was rich, and went low when the mix was lean. There was even a test mode on the ECU to check if your O2 was functioning correctly by flashing the LED when this high/low flip happened. So it knew what side of 14.7 it was on (lean or rich) but only that. But yes, WB02 much much better for modern tuning and a must for boost. Thanks for the great video!
Narrow band on ONE cylinder protects most Catalytic converters from burning up. If the motor is running too lean, it will make a correction to enrich the fuel mixture before the heat saturates the lower end of the exhaust system. The wideband will confirm the mixture to bring exhaust temps down and the computer will tell the modern EGR valve to allow more unburnt exhaust into the cylinder to bring down cylinder temps to prevent a knock.
Just curious about the narrow band sensors; are the narrow band sensors all the same, the only differences from any one Narrow Band sensor to another are physical in nature ie connector shape or keyway placement? It seems to me that narrow band sensors with heaters are all the same when it comes to signals to and from the ecm. Am I correct or not?
Hello.. on a 6.0 with cam and turbo.. would I use all the O2 sensors .. being theres no cats.. and would placements of these sensors be located in there factory location or moved to maximize there use... and where would you add the wide band..
Tuning Fork: I have a question, I am building a Stroked L28 240Z with EFI Hardware ITB's and a 3-2-1 extractors with 2.5" exhaust. Due to the length of the extractors am I better to install 2 sensors in the '2' part of the extractors or will only a single one suffice which is near the output of the gearbox. Not going drive by wire hence reason for the ELite 750. Any advice will be appreciated.
I need this for my 2jzgte Supra. I am still running factory ECU with a single turbo and the car has been fine (hits boost cut at 14psi so i have my ebc at 13). I was looking at the Haltech Elite 2500/2000. I have some questions. My power goal is about 650rwhp on 98. Cable throttle. Q1 - I want my air con back. The issue is, it has had an Aristo engine swap and the factory wiring combined with the new turbo ECU is different for an SZ chassis Supra (different outputs for AC control from turbo ecu). Can a Haltech be used to operate the air con while retaining the factory HVAC with an Aristo 2JZ-GTE? 2 - Can I still use the factory igniter and ignition setup if I want to have hot-boi anti lag? 3 - I have been told that I need a 2500, is it possible to use another (maybe cheaper) ECU to reach my goals? 4 - Where should I buy my new ECU from (I am in Brisbane) and what extras should I get with it to make installation as easy/cheap as possible for whatever workshop I end up taking it to for installation and tuning? This will be my first time purchasing a ECU so all information will be tremendously helpful towards my build. TIA
I'd recommend getting the AC to work before going to standalone since it'll save you some headaches In the long run. As for what ECU to get,buy the best ECU you can. It's the last place you want to try and save money. I can't tell you how many times I have seen someone regret trying to save a few bucks. I'd say it's at least 95% have regretted going with the lower model of the ones they were looking at and most of those end up upgrading to the ecu that they should've gotten in the first place. So it's usually cheaper just to get the better ECU to begin with. Another thing is that the 2500 has multiple engine safeguards compared to the single for the 2000 series. That feature alone can easily save your motor. With multiple channels on the 2500 you can monitor things like air/fuel,oil pressure,coolant temp etc. This way if you go lean, or lose oil pressure,overheat etc the ECU can protect your motor. But with the 2000 you're limited to one thing and that alone is worth the difference in price. Plus you can keep the ECU if you sell the car and sell it will stock ECU
Nice Supra! 1) The Haltech handle's AC very simply. It has a request switch (the "on" button) and an AC clutch output (which grounds the AC relay). So the HVAC control part of it isn't actually integrated into the Haltech. 2) You can definitely utilise the factory ignition system. It doesn't really have much to do about where you can use anti-lag or not. For what it's worth, the factory ignitor module does become a limiting factor for power down the line. 3) You can use an Elite 2000 or 2500. The 2500 does have more race features that you might like. 4) You can purchase directly from our webstore or perhaps a tuner can do a deal with you for the ECU + install + tune. Call around and see what they can do for you. In regards to addition items, we strongly suggest to add a wideband o2 controller kit. That way you can capitalise on the closed loop o2 control. Hope this helps:)
You can get the ac working without the need for another ecu. The aristo motor needs a reverse polarity trigger to turn it on as appose to supra ecu. Thats it, Message me if you want more info. I run an aristo ecu in my supra and had to do the mod.
Thanks for that explanation,, just a quick question,, what happens for the "other" 60% of the time? The engine runs off a predetermined table? Does this table ( Please think narrow band here) also learn? Also, I run sequential LPG on my RV8, does the ECU re-learn everytime it switches fuel?
So if I add in an afr gauge with a good wideband and the ability to tie back to the factory ecu and sensors, will this increase sensor accuracy? Will it also give a tuner a more accurate afr reading?
I am using carburettors-shock horror and a wide band O2 sensor was recommended as a tuning tool. Can yours be linked to a laptop or similar to give direct read outs without an ECU?
Do you cry a little on the inside when Marty or moog appear with a lovely 'nugget' as you ozzy's say lol, Enjoy your work, and your way of explaining things is top notch, Big respect from the uk from a bloke called austr... upside down lol
@@haltech classic, keep up the good work buddy, decent skilled tuners are a rare breed, to many peps think cause they can flash a file on to a ECU that makes them a tuner 🤘
Does an O2 sensor generate its own voltage or it need and external power source (Vcc)? Does the narrow band O2 sensor heater need power supply all the time or it should cut off once the sensor is heated? (Or it depends on each manufacturer?). Thanks for the video, Scott! Hope one day I get the chance to play with one of those Haltech Elite ECUs.
Correct, one day we will need oxygen sensors. Thankfully for all of us these days, it's just a input device for our current automobiles. Fwew, thank goodness for that.
Hey, Haltech, were you the guys that covered a video on some dudes that had a switch to change tunes to their "show tune" which they programmed cam/blower surge? I've been lookin' for that video again hahaha, 'cuz IIRC they mentioned something about their ignition tables.
How would I connect and configure a wideband sensor directly to my Haltech PS100? Does the calibration need to be done by my tuner? Also, is it true the wideband should always be post catalytic converter?
Does a lambdasensor work on diesels? I know they need another fuel mixture, around 18:1 ish, but could a lambdasensor read the amount of air compared to burned fuel? EDIT: AFR on diesels apparently should be around 14.5:1 smh...
I'd say yes, but why would you? Diesels run lean of stoich nearly all the time, so you always have xs air in the exhaust, until stoich, and after that, rich, you get black smoke and high EGTs, and you don't plan to run there!
Yes. But why? Factory cars that have wide band normally run narrow band sensor after catalytic converter that way they can use it to check that catalytic converter is working and it can also be used to check and calibrate the wide band sensor. You could use a narrow band for that even without the catalytic converter.
All our ECUs can technically pass emission tests. What makes them illegal in a lot of states and territories is the fact that they are programmable - meaning that you can change the tune just to pass the test.
It's Tech Tuesday time! Today we are looking at Oxygen Sensors and Wideband O2 Controllers. Why you need them and what's the difference between wideband and narrowband. All explained in this short yet very informative video. Keep in mind these videos are only meant to cover the basics. If you would like us to expand on any part of this topic let us know in the comments section and we'll do a full-length "Technically Speaking" video on it:)
Can you run your WB2 duel wide and on a 4 cylinder motor? Or do you recommend a single?
Mr TuningFork sir you are a legend!
thanks Scotty you make the breakdown of your subjects more understandable. Understanding more with each of your subjects passed on.
Quickly becoming one of the best Aussie car tech channels on RUclips 👌🏻.
Would love to see a video of what it’s like to upgrade a TPI chev / injected Aussie 304 with today’s tech.
Could you do a tech video on correct placement of O2 sensors.
and even they would benefit from a wideband 02 and a gauge/logger! :-)
Yeah! I love me some Tech tuesday. Always learn lots of good stuff from these.
Once again you have taught me something, all of a sudden heaps more makes sense now. Thank you.
You're welcome:)
You have awnsered all my questions an then some. Thank you sir.
You're welcome:)
thank you Scotty from haltech for another awesome video
Excellents . . . Informative . Stay Frosty
great things, but they introduce more errors if you have xs air or some water getting into the exhaust. Yes, I know this shouldn't happen, but in the real world with cars driven daily (sometimes hard) and not fettled every weekend, it happens. Then your mixture is all over the place (but only at low power/closed loop). If old-school ECUs are set up to run open loop at high power, but closed loop at low power, why not run open loop all the time? MAP, IAT, ECT are all measured and fuel/ign adjusted from the tables anyway, which can be tweaked? Just trying tyo remove a source of errors and time chasing them down. (dual IAW ECUs, odd-fire bi-turbo V6 that is a pain to remove).
perfectly explained :)
these videos are very important
I learnt something today 👍 I thought they were two different names for the same sensor 😂😂😂
If I recall from my old Nissan days, narrow band used on the US S13 where even dumber than what you described. If I recall correctly, it was either high or low depending on the AFR. Meaning if it was high if the mixture was rich, and went low when the mix was lean. There was even a test mode on the ECU to check if your O2 was functioning correctly by flashing the LED when this high/low flip happened. So it knew what side of 14.7 it was on (lean or rich) but only that.
But yes, WB02 much much better for modern tuning and a must for boost.
Thanks for the great video!
Narrow band on ONE cylinder protects most Catalytic converters from burning up. If the motor is running too lean, it will make a correction to enrich the fuel mixture before the heat saturates the lower end of the exhaust system. The wideband will confirm the mixture to bring exhaust temps down and the computer will tell the modern EGR valve to allow more unburnt exhaust into the cylinder to bring down cylinder temps to prevent a knock.
This was brilliant scotty thanks man
Awesome vid
The four thumbs down are old school carburetor engine tuners 🤣🤣🤣
Awesome video 👍 thank you 🙏
Just curious about the narrow band sensors; are the narrow band sensors all the same, the only differences from any one Narrow Band sensor to another are physical in nature ie connector shape or keyway placement? It seems to me that narrow band sensors with heaters are all the same when it comes to signals to and from the ecm. Am I correct or not?
On Post CAT Narrow Band Sensors, What does adding a spacer do to the O/P Voltage of the sensor? (0-1V)
OMG it's still Monday here lol
Stop watching this video immediately! Do not watch it till Tuesday! Do not... ahhh.... damn it....
You now have seven days left to live.
@@haltech 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
@@haltech LOL
Such great info!
Hello.. on a 6.0 with cam and turbo.. would I use all the O2 sensors .. being theres no cats.. and would placements of these sensors be located in there factory location or moved to maximize there use... and where would you add the wide band..
Tuning Fork: I have a question, I am building a Stroked L28 240Z with EFI Hardware ITB's and a 3-2-1 extractors with 2.5" exhaust. Due to the length of the extractors am I better to install 2 sensors in the '2' part of the extractors or will only a single one suffice which is near the output of the gearbox. Not going drive by wire hence reason for the ELite 750. Any advice will be appreciated.
I need this for my 2jzgte Supra. I am still running factory ECU with a single turbo and the car has been fine (hits boost cut at 14psi so i have my ebc at 13). I was looking at the Haltech Elite 2500/2000.
I have some questions.
My power goal is about 650rwhp on 98. Cable throttle.
Q1 - I want my air con back. The issue is, it has had an Aristo engine swap and the factory wiring combined with the new turbo ECU is different for an SZ chassis Supra (different outputs for AC control from turbo ecu). Can a Haltech be used to operate the air con while retaining the factory HVAC with an Aristo 2JZ-GTE?
2 - Can I still use the factory igniter and ignition setup if I want to have hot-boi anti lag?
3 - I have been told that I need a 2500, is it possible to use another (maybe cheaper) ECU to reach my goals?
4 - Where should I buy my new ECU from (I am in Brisbane) and what extras should I get with it to make installation as easy/cheap as possible for whatever workshop I end up taking it to for installation and tuning?
This will be my first time purchasing a ECU so all information will be tremendously helpful towards my build.
TIA
I'd recommend getting the AC to work before going to standalone since it'll save you some headaches In the long run.
As for what ECU to get,buy the best ECU you can. It's the last place you want to try and save money. I can't tell you how many times I have seen someone regret trying to save a few bucks. I'd say it's at least 95% have regretted going with the lower model of the ones they were looking at and most of those end up upgrading to the ecu that they should've gotten in the first place. So it's usually cheaper just to get the better ECU to begin with.
Another thing is that the 2500 has multiple engine safeguards compared to the single for the 2000 series. That feature alone can easily save your motor. With multiple channels on the 2500 you can monitor things like air/fuel,oil pressure,coolant temp etc. This way if you go lean, or lose oil pressure,overheat etc the ECU can protect your motor. But with the 2000 you're limited to one thing and that alone is worth the difference in price. Plus you can keep the ECU if you sell the car and sell it will stock ECU
Nice Supra!
1) The Haltech handle's AC very simply.
It has a request switch (the "on" button) and an AC clutch output (which grounds the AC relay).
So the HVAC control part of it isn't actually integrated into the Haltech.
2) You can definitely utilise the factory ignition system.
It doesn't really have much to do about where you can use anti-lag or not.
For what it's worth, the factory ignitor module does become a limiting factor for power down the line.
3) You can use an Elite 2000 or 2500.
The 2500 does have more race features that you might like.
4) You can purchase directly from our webstore or perhaps a tuner can do a deal with you for the ECU + install + tune.
Call around and see what they can do for you.
In regards to addition items, we strongly suggest to add a wideband o2 controller kit.
That way you can capitalise on the closed loop o2 control.
Hope this helps:)
You can get the ac working without the need for another ecu. The aristo motor needs a reverse polarity trigger to turn it on as appose to supra ecu. Thats it, Message me if you want more info. I run an aristo ecu in my supra and had to do the mod.
Thanks for that explanation,, just a quick question,, what happens for the "other" 60% of the time? The engine runs off a predetermined table? Does this table ( Please think narrow band here) also learn? Also, I run sequential LPG on my RV8, does the ECU re-learn everytime it switches fuel?
So if I add in an afr gauge with a good wideband and the ability to tie back to the factory ecu and sensors, will this increase sensor accuracy? Will it also give a tuner a more accurate afr reading?
Still having a hard time getting used to you without glasses!🤣🤣🤣 Would love to have you tune my LS...alas I’m in California!🤦♂️🤷🏻♂️😭😂👍🏻
They can do remote tuning ;-)
I am using carburettors-shock horror and a wide band O2 sensor was recommended as a tuning tool. Can yours be linked to a laptop or similar to give direct read outs without an ECU?
With so many widebands available on the market these days, Scott what wideband is your go to choice?
Are multiple O2 sensors (such as one per each cylinder) any good/worth the cost?
Getting acurately matched injectors and going for per cylinder EGT is probably more appropriate for most builds.
Do you cry a little on the inside when Marty or moog appear with a lovely 'nugget' as you ozzy's say lol,
Enjoy your work, and your way of explaining things is top notch,
Big respect from the uk from a bloke called austr... upside down lol
Just a little...
@@haltech classic, keep up the good work buddy, decent skilled tuners are a rare breed, to many peps think cause they can flash a file on to a ECU that makes them a tuner 🤘
Does an O2 sensor generate its own voltage or it need and external power source (Vcc)? Does the narrow band O2 sensor heater need power supply all the time or it should cut off once the sensor is heated? (Or it depends on each manufacturer?). Thanks for the video, Scott! Hope one day I get the chance to play with one of those Haltech Elite ECUs.
Correct, one day we will need oxygen sensors. Thankfully for all of us these days, it's just a input device for our current automobiles. Fwew, thank goodness for that.
Hey, Haltech, were you the guys that covered a video on some dudes that had a switch to change tunes to their "show tune" which they programmed cam/blower surge? I've been lookin' for that video again hahaha, 'cuz IIRC they mentioned something about their ignition tables.
Scotty - can these be used on a stock ECU (i.e. 2011 subaru forester xt), or do they require an ECU swap?
What happens if the wideband sensor fails; does the computer 'limp' or just use what it has already learned?
What brand do you recommend? Bosch, or the more expensive ones for a roots blown 540 big block Chevy running port and batch efi in the hat
i like content like this
How would I connect and configure a wideband sensor directly to my Haltech PS100? Does the calibration need to be done by my tuner?
Also, is it true the wideband should always be post catalytic converter?
Here is a video we've done a few years back showing the wideband setup on a Platinum ECU: ruclips.net/video/lyF0yUboQYE/видео.html
But running a ecu with a wideband continuously is sketchy.
Scotty does my LS3 have wide band?
Do you have a plug n play ecu for a 4efte?
Does a lambdasensor work on diesels? I know they need another fuel mixture, around 18:1 ish, but could a lambdasensor read the amount of air compared to burned fuel?
EDIT: AFR on diesels apparently should be around 14.5:1 smh...
I'd say yes, but why would you? Diesels run lean of stoich nearly all the time, so you always have xs air in the exhaust, until stoich, and after that, rich, you get black smoke and high EGTs, and you don't plan to run there!
Stupid question:
Can you use both sensors? Narrow band for the narrower range and then a wide band when it falls outside of those conditions?
Yes. But why? Factory cars that have wide band normally run narrow band sensor after catalytic converter that way they can use it to check that catalytic converter is working and it can also be used to check and calibrate the wide band sensor. You could use a narrow band for that even without the catalytic converter.
Oh. That makes a lot more sense. Thank you for the response.
Why the heck was NB used so long, seems like WB was always worth the cost/complexity.
can you please make a v8 Supercars of your own
How does a one wire oxygen sensor work ?
A one wire O2 sensor is a Narrowband that uses the chassis for return. Outputs a voltage just like other NB sensors.
Please make a ECU that I can pass emissions on in New York please
All our ECUs can technically pass emission tests. What makes them illegal in a lot of states and territories is the fact that they are programmable - meaning that you can change the tune just to pass the test.
Haltech so what can I do
That's not really up to us to say. We would recommend talking to your local tuners to see what they recommend.