Yea!! I completed my automated hot wire today. Now I just have to clean up my templates or possibly make new ones as mine seem to be on the very thin side when cutting the tip. I tried sanding more on the bottom of the lower cut and used tape on the bottom of the upper cut, hope that works better. Thank you again for sharing this information as it has worked out great in my build. Thanks again and God Bless..
Pretty slick. In the early 90's, I wrote the software for a CNC hotwire cutter that a friend used to cut foam wings for pattern fliers. It was bit of a challenge to get it to cut tapered wings.
glad you liked it. I'm working on making a cnc that will be able to cut a wing half at once, eliminating the joints and providing a smoother transition 👌 😎
Without getting in the mud myself I don't understand what is being solved here, but clearly it's something. I'm sure I'll will be back here after I build a hot wire cutter and screw up some foam.
A few questions for confirmation. 1. The line on your green tape is parallel to the fixed arm, and TE of block aligns right over it. 2. The centerline on table is perpendicular to fixed arm and aligns with the 50% mark on the moving arm. 3. The centerline on the block of foam runs from 1/2 of LE to 1/2 of TE, and I visually align the two centerlines when setting up the block on the table. 4. What are your templates made of? 5. Why the two nails taped to the bow legs? Thanks much. David
you have the method down pat :) I made my templates from .8mm thick aluminum flat stock. I found it easy to shape but ridge enough for my purpose. Those nails are just added weight to the ends of the bow to help it's balance.
hmmm, I've never used X/Y. I'm sure you probably know, but here is a link to all the Synergyll files. www.rcgroups.com/forums/thumbgallery.php?t=2152557&do=threadgallery&type=files&group Maybe something there could help you.
@@amonus-air2160 I have taken the liberty of converting to X-Y coordinates in a DAT file as well as loading them into a DXF file at unit scale. If you are agreeable and anyone is interested they could PM me and I would send.
I really want to build a DLG glider, but now it looks like I have to build a foam cutter first. I can't think of a thing that could go wrong. edit: The nails are for extra weight, correct?
the airfoil is the SynergyII . Here is a link if you want to see it's development. www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2152557-Synergy-II-wing-development
Thanks for watching and the compliment! I use Owens Corning FOAMULAR CodeBord XPS Rigid Foam, which is available to me locally at the HomeDepot. It's meant for exterior walls in new home construction. It's the lightest XPS foam I've found, without going into exotics like Rohacell.
Hi! I've personally done a 55cm span for a 2 airfoil dlg, and I had zero issues. I can only assume that at some point in going extremely wider, wire dragging would be a concern. Thanks for the question.
Great work :-) Our Community are looking forward to the full series and following you :-) The Book Group -- DLG / HLG COMMUNITY for Newbies, Starters & Kids
Thank you for the compliment. I feel honoured to be followed by you and your group, and I'll be posting the entire build as time goes on. sunny skies 😎
You're the Bob Ross of foam cutting. Great videos 😀
By far the best homemade foam cores i ever see, congratulations!
thanks!
Yea!! I completed my automated hot wire today. Now I just have to clean up my templates or possibly make new ones as mine seem to be on the very thin side when cutting the tip. I tried sanding more on the bottom of the lower cut and used tape on the bottom of the upper cut, hope that works better. Thank you again for sharing this information as it has worked out great in my build.
Thanks again and God Bless..
😎👍
Brilliant!! Your device solves a bunch of issues with foam core cutting.
Very nice foam core cutting! I just use my hands for it but your cutting machine is amazing! Bravo! Nice videos from You! Thanks for sharing!
thank you for the kind words. I'm glad you liked it 😎
Very impressive. Keep posting on the rcg thread! (Dan81)
thank you! I'll document the entire build for all to see and keep rcg up to date :)
Map nice! That’s the way to do it!
GREAT DEMO VIDEO!!!... THANKS FOR "SHARING"!!!!!!!!!!!!
very welcome 🙂
Randomly found this video, but this seems like a really awesome technique and the video is made quite well! Subbed
Thank you. Glad you found the content interesting 👍
Pretty slick. In the early 90's, I wrote the software for a CNC hotwire cutter that a friend used to cut foam wings for pattern fliers. It was bit of a challenge to get it to cut tapered wings.
glad you liked it.
I'm working on making a cnc that will be able to cut a wing half at once, eliminating the joints and providing a smoother transition 👌 😎
Without getting in the mud myself I don't understand what is being solved here, but clearly it's something. I'm sure I'll will be back here after I build a hot wire cutter and screw up some foam.
in a nutshell, the feed table will give you a consistent travel speed which gives you a smooth cut that you can't do by hand.
Great video. Your instruction is easy to follow. Thanks
thank you, and I'm happy you liked it. More to come..
Very nice tool and technique. Thank you.
Glad you liked it!
Thank you, Sir. I really appreciate your answers. David
You're most welcome
Very nice video demystifying how a pulley rigged/gravity fed foam wing cutter works. As others have mentioned - Thanks for sharing!
Hotdamn Bubba…brilliant.
thanks
Great - thank you for showing us this.
very welcome
@3:55 - I literally laughed out loud - been there, done that 😄
lol...learn from your mistakes I guess 😎
Suuuper 👍 very very good Video 👍
Thank you very much
Cheers ...Subscribed and Liked 😃
thank you
A few questions for confirmation. 1. The line on your green tape is parallel to the fixed arm, and TE of block aligns right over it. 2. The centerline on table is perpendicular to fixed arm and aligns with the 50% mark on the moving arm. 3. The centerline on the block of foam runs from 1/2 of LE to 1/2 of TE, and I visually align the two centerlines when setting up the block on the table. 4. What are your templates made of? 5. Why the two nails taped to the bow legs? Thanks much. David
you have the method down pat :)
I made my templates from .8mm thick aluminum flat stock. I found it easy to shape but ridge enough for my purpose.
Those nails are just added weight to the ends of the bow to help it's balance.
great low key presentation thanks
Glad you enjoyed it!
best fot wire foam cutter out there, but it takes ages to cut. still really good tho that cut is awesome
thanks for the kind words
Thanks. Going to apply this method to my foaMWARi RC airplane ❤
great!...let us know how it worked out :)
Really enjoyed the vibe in your video. Was well done and the cutting technique is interesting. Subbed and looking forward to more!
Thank you so much
you are a genius
Wow impressive
thanks for the kind words
Amazing resource! Thank you! Is there a reason you chose to cut the bottom template before the top?
yes. If you cut the top first the core will end up slightly thinner than desired. Thanks for the question.
What mark on your moving arm is the one pound weight attached to?
I keep mine at around 4 to 5. That's all dependent on your weight, construction etc...
Simple awesome technique
thanks so much
Shame the Synergy 2 section is not available in clasic x/y coordinents :-(
hmmm, I've never used X/Y. I'm sure you probably know, but here is a link to all the Synergyll files.
www.rcgroups.com/forums/thumbgallery.php?t=2152557&do=threadgallery&type=files&group
Maybe something there could help you.
@@amonus-air2160 I have taken the liberty of converting to X-Y coordinates in a DAT file as well as loading them into a DXF file at unit scale. If you are agreeable and anyone is interested they could PM me and I would send.
thank you John. If anyone inquires I'll let them know 🙂
Wowww, tankyou i've refrence now
very nice
thx for the kind words
You said you had to change the long side string to 79. But it appears to be about at the 81.5 mark in the video @ 6:18. Is that correct?
Hi
I think I had to splice in another clip at that mark if I remember correctly to show unhooking the latch.
Found this video informative and easy to understand. See you have posted additional videos.
Like, and subscribed. :)
great!...thank you
Wait a minute - how did you work the magic --??
all the stars need to be aligned....hee-hee :)
Thanks for the comment.
Love it. Do you have drawings of this
Links in the description
Thanks!
Welcome!
THANK YOU.................. SURWEEEEEEET
I'm so proud of being a human
me too...the other options are no gouda 😆
Now you just need to make it so if you try to turn it on without releasing the latch it gives you a electrical shock
right
I really want to build a DLG glider, but now it looks like I have to build a foam cutter first. I can't think of a thing that could go wrong.
edit: The nails are for extra weight, correct?
thanks for the question. Yes, I used what-ever I had to add a little more weight on the arms to force it down more 😎👍
@@amonus-air2160 I have plastic sheaves on my shopping list today, wish me luck!
What airfoil are you using on this glider?
the airfoil is the SynergyII . Here is a link if you want to see it's development.
www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2152557-Synergy-II-wing-development
Thanks for a great video!
What foam is that?
Thanks for watching and the compliment!
I use Owens Corning FOAMULAR CodeBord XPS Rigid Foam, which is available to me locally at
the HomeDepot. It's meant for exterior walls in new home construction.
It's the lightest XPS foam I've found, without going into exotics like Rohacell.
Wow!
wow is good :)
Any reference you can share on the power supply for the hotwire?
yes, Google hotwire Cutter Power supply diy. There's a guy who goes through it in detail, forget his name.
ruclips.net/video/-d_XNhQy-I4/видео.html
I used a 12V 15A 180W Power Supply . Bought it from Amazon...www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07DN7MYD1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@johnnichol9412 yep!...sounds about right. I get more consistent results when you eliminate variables like amperage and feed speed
what is the longest block (span wise) that you can cut with this
Hi!
I've personally done a 55cm span for a 2 airfoil dlg, and I had zero issues. I can only assume that at some point in going extremely wider, wire dragging would be a concern.
Thanks for the question.
@@amonus-air2160 thanks for the answer!
Good job! You deserve a subscripe 😂
thank you!
Great work :-) Our Community are looking forward to the full series and following you :-) The Book Group -- DLG / HLG COMMUNITY for Newbies, Starters & Kids
Thank you for the compliment. I feel honoured to be followed by you and your group, and I'll be posting the entire build as time goes on.
sunny skies 😎