I found it was much easier to disconnect the choke cable at the handlebar thumb switch and carefully pull it free of the bars, frame, etc. before you remove the carb from the bike. That plastic piece (at the carb end) is very fragile & not a lot of threads holding it in place-easy to break. Reconnect it to the handlebar thumb switch after you have reinstalled the carb. It's a lot easier to re-torque it to proper tightness to the carb when it's on the bench. It's gonna cost at least $20 (for example, bikebandit with the shipping, or drive to the nearest dealer, lol) for just the one small part if it strips or breaks, and it's a vacuum leak if it's not torqued proper, or broken. Yeah, I learned this the hard way... There is a metal replacement part that's twice the $$, plus shipping, but if you're careful and take your time you don't need it. Also, if the carb-to-air cleaner vinyl boot is old and hardened, it's much more difficult to reinstall the carb. Replace it with a new, soft & flexy one and it's much easier! A radiator hose hook tool makes it easy to fit the boot to the carb inlet.
DRAMAS putting my throttle back on the plastic bit in the alloy throttle assembly has me stumped how to route it any ideas please.Also getting it to snap back wasnt happening so im here...
I don't think there is an in-line fuel filter. There may be a screen on the inside of the petcock (inside the tank) and there might be a screen at the carb inlet but that's it.
I found it was much easier to disconnect the choke cable at the handlebar thumb switch and carefully pull it free of the bars, frame, etc. before you remove the carb from the bike. That plastic piece (at the carb end) is very fragile & not a lot of threads holding it in place-easy to break. Reconnect it to the handlebar thumb switch after you have reinstalled the carb. It's a lot easier to re-torque it to proper tightness to the carb when it's on the bench. It's gonna cost at least $20 (for example, bikebandit with the shipping, or drive to the nearest dealer, lol) for just the one small part if it strips or breaks, and it's a vacuum leak if it's not torqued proper, or broken. Yeah, I learned this the hard way... There is a metal replacement part that's twice the $$, plus shipping, but if you're careful and take your time you don't need it.
Also, if the carb-to-air cleaner vinyl boot is old and hardened, it's much more difficult to reinstall the carb. Replace it with a new, soft & flexy one and it's much easier! A radiator hose hook tool makes it easy to fit the boot to the carb inlet.
Thanks for the tips!
DRAMAS putting my throttle back on the plastic bit in the alloy throttle assembly has me stumped how to route it any ideas please.Also getting it to snap back wasnt happening so im here...
I was so surprised to see that abandoned factory from North Grosvenordale in this 🤣
I like to ride in eastern CT...lots of good roads and not too much traffic
Where do you connect the hoses on the carburetor?
how do you get the choke cable off the carburetor to pull off the carbertor ?
Nice job! Ride on Brother,Cheers;
Is that Thomson? Beautiful riding out there.
Yes - that's Thompson. I agree - good roads for leisurely riding.
My bike doesnt have the choke cable, just a manual choke, the choke cable is broken, is that why its so hard to start?
If you can choke manually and its still hard to start then its probably something else....
valve adjustment
God damnit you didn't show me anything about the house routing. No resources for the 250 online
Your welcome
Guess I'm a little butthurt about it. Thank you for showing everything else though, it's an awesome channel
where is the fuel filter located at and what does it look like?
I don't think there is an in-line fuel filter. There may be a screen on the inside of the petcock (inside the tank) and there might be a screen at the carb inlet but that's it.
thank you I found it finally lol