so true plus for a 50 foot sailboat under 50k so far is really not all that bad im aware they are far from finished, theres some value also to having a hand made boat and your own hands at that truely priceless well if done right if not could end up being a nightmare but these folks seem to have done it right consulting with an engineer and all that
@@rayrayray7494 For their sake, I hope you are correct. For me, there is no way I would take that on the open ocean. I already see way too many issues.
I’m a little long in the tooth to take on a project of this magnitude, however I do get great joy following your progress on Ran II. I also appreciate the transparency of the costs involved, something that is missing from the majority of projects that I follow. I look forward to every Friday with mounting curiosity.
Actually I could build one if I were his age, then I have built a lot of houses, apartments and race cars as will as old mopar. He and his wife and the captain have accomplished a great deal at a very reasonable price. I hope I see it completed
I am just completing a Paul Gartside designed 26’ cutter. 2 layers of western red cedar over white oak steam bent frames. It’s been a long project, but very satisfying. You learn a lot as you go and being a cabinet maker and finish carpenter, I have the tools and background for the build.
Har arbeidet som plugg og form bygger i 20 år. Det finnes ingen lærebok for dette yrket /jobben kun erfaring. Synes du gjør en god jobb. Tolmodighet og svette er rette måten. Når du synest at overflaten er perfekt da er det tid for sprøytesparkel, ikke før. Dere er hjempeflinke! Er så inponert! Keep up the good work.😊
Spent several years helping friends build a 40 ft Catamaran. The stress broke several marriages but the boat has gone round the world 20 times. Your building methods seem pretty sound. Getting friends to help with phases like sanding will definitely help maintain your body for later life. Sanding machines too. There's nothing quite like noodle arms for helping sleep! What I recall at this stage: Whatever bog/resin/mix that you easily smooth onto the hull, ultimately has to be sanded off. Hard work indeed. Not any shortcuts here, unfortunately except from using younger, fitter friends to share the load. Good luck.
SMART!! Using grinder set up. You need to way OVER FILL your coats. It will work much better a lot less coats less time less labor. If the overlaps show now they will come back later after paint. Make sure only red filler is showing on last coat!
So when I saw the sanding invention- I went back and checked the title of the video- since it did not mention a hospital visit - I figured it would work- well done!
Please check out 12 inch floor sanding discs and pads and always use the most aggressive grit to start. You will need a high amp grinder to turn you set . With light pressure and an alternating X pattern followed by back and forth parallel to the waterline you can produce a surface that you can finish fair with your torture board. Good luck we are right there with you! Keep up the great work on Ran 3 and the videos.
Considering that the average price of a new 50' sailing yacht starts at $400,000+ and goes up from there, I'd say that you are well ahead of the game! I suppose the extensive labor does not count when you are working for yourself. You are building a home on the water AND the means of travel to go where ever the water takes you! That is priceless!!
Good luck finding any 50' new yacht for $400k. The Hallberg Rassy 50, which is of comparable build quality to Ran III, retails for $1.75 million without the extras.
But you forgot the numbers of hours of work that are not mentioned. For a price of about $ 60. - to 80. - an hour...?? Men otrolig talang och osviklig motivation. Bra gjort 👌👋
@@faub79 No, I did not forget the wages at all or the profits that are made by the company that employs the builder's. Most could not build a yacht of this caliber themselve's, so it is a necessary trade-off. The reason I did not factor that in, is because as I stated, they are building for themselves and their wages is the yacht itself. In this case, they are ahead of the game!
This is going to get to $250K before they’re done. They could have bought any number of used yachts for that price and been on the water today, and not have used up 1000’s of hours of their lifetime needlessly.
I admire you being so open on all of the costs. Building the boat from scratch is not for the faint hearted or someone without determination and skills. Boats have always been money pits but I think building it yourself and doing it right will be expensive but you have the opportunity to minimise future costly issues. This boat will be a gem when finished and although costing a lot of money will still be cheaper than buying someone else'e creation with unknown issues but still represent great value for money and be what you want.
Hi Johan, might be of some help regarding the sandpaper on your board. I was a patternmaker and we had a big WADKIN disc sander table, the disc's were approx 1m diameter and we had self adhesive backed sheets. You could probably get 3 or possibly 4 out of 1 sheet if you can find a supplier.
I renewed the Teak Deck on my old HR 38...and "I am thinking about" never doing that again. It took me 1.200 hours and I was about to quit during the work sometimes. I wish you all the best hetting over "these times" of frustration smoothly.
The squair disc is great. I have worked in boatt shops that have used it. The best benefit from it is the corners stop the disc from digging into the hull like a standard round disc might. But you can only use on flat and outside curved surfaces!
Thank you for being so open & transparent about the costs. I've always been curious but would never think to ask. By the way, your use of the English language is so very articulate, with perfect word choice, that I can't imagine how you present yourself in your "native tongue."
Looks like your getting that fairing process down to be the most efficient and easy method. The costs are large, but then so is the boat ! You also get the satifaction that all the work is done correctly and up to your standards. Looking forward to that first coat of primer ! :) Cheerz!!!
Drywall sanding machine? It has a fairly large diameter, not very high rpm, and its purpose is very similar to what you're doing here. It can be connected to a vacuum cleaner.
I just converted your total into DKK (the currency I live with) and GOSH, you’ve done very well indeed. You seek out great deals on things - your patrons should be proud!
Most interesting to watch your progress and attention to detail is an education in itself. I have a boat being built in the Netherlands and it’s time line is 2 1/2 years, with multiple places doing the work. You are a Superman
I think your new sanding method is brilliant. The only thing I would change is make the plywood a round disc instead of a square. I think that would also improve safety also.
Hi Johan, ich verfolge euren Bootsbau sehr gerne! Vielleicht hätte ich dir einen Tipp für die jetzige Schleifarbeit. Für das Bodenschleifen gibt es Tellerschleifer mit richtig großen runden Scheiben (406 mm) und jeder Körnung und Güte. Bin selbst Schreinermeister. Würde mir einen mit Filz belegten runden Teller mit der Shaper bauen auf den ich diese Scheiben spannen könnte und eine kleinere Machine mit weniger Drehzahl verwenden. Vielleicht hilft euch das…..viel Erfolg ihr schafft das! 😊 Björn
Well done so far. I am so impressed. You havent concidered spraying on the fairing compound? Maybe with high pressure airless? To reduce viscosity there are as well HP pumps with a hetaer. In my biew that could save you time, maybe both in the applying but also in the sanding process having a smoother layer to start with.
In regards to the sanding have a look at woodwork disk sanders as I have one that take a 315mm disk. This is for home use. I think there may be bigger ones as the backing plate may be available as the sanding disks are readly available It may be of some help
Hi, a lot of work ahead! But if you want to make a professional job when fairing you have to apply thin coats and built one over the others. If you do it right, you won't have to sand after each coats that you apply until the last one and then finishing the fairing. If your mixture is not too thick it will be easier to apply, faster and it will give you a better result. Peoples do the same mistakes over and over by wanting to cover it up all in one coat and then they will have to sand it all the night away! And money will go away!! GOOD LUCK to the both of you.
Thank you for sharing all the informastion about the costs so far. You have also had a lot of costs for fixing the barn but you could of course add that amount to the costs for buying the property, house and land. One thing I am wonering about is how much you have been able to collect from RUclips of th almost 50000 $ you spent for the boat so far. You have one of the most interesting sailing channels at the moment and I am waiting every week for your new wideo. I understand that may be it will take some more extra time because of the problem with the overlapping glas fibre. Do you think we will be able to see you turning the hull in March. I beleive it is an optimistic guess. Than you for all your videos so far. They are realy entertaining.
Thanks for sharing! At least you know what has gone into your vessel and can be truly confident. Tack för att du delar med dig! Du vet åtminstone vad som har hamnat i ditt kärl och kan vara riktigt säker.
You should be able to get a pad to attach to the board that you can bolt on. Also I would use a round board. We do the same for molds. Cut the board and bolt holes with your cnc router. That will make the balance much better
Love the MacGyver trial and error (or more succeed in this case 😅) sanding pad! Great reason for trying out new and sketchy things as a non-employee! Stay safe!
Over my time spent on this channel, I have concluded that when you guys take on a project, I have full faith that the results will be great. Johan is a very talented and detail oriented craftsman.
Hi guys, may I say I have really enjoyed seeing all your hard work come together and can’t wait to see the finished result. Out of interest that square board on the polishing machine you used for fairing the hull is very similar to something I used years ago for shaping and taking out high spots in the metalwork of car bodies when we used to beat and file them.The difference being is the wood used would be no more than 6mm to 9mm thick, and instead of being square with four points it would have eight points. This helps to control it better and not dig in to the surface / high spots so is less aggressive but still providing the sanding required. Although ours were smaller in diameter I can’t see why it would not work with something bigger, Why not try another prototype and let us know how it goes. Keep up the fantastic work and very best wishes to you all. Steve from the UK.
Johann: thanks for the update, $46,200 seems quite low for a 50ft boat? You really made out nicely on the price of the cedar, plus all that beautiful mahogany and teak, the interior will look spectacular. If you include the mast, sails, paint and moving her to the water, we estimate an approximate cost of $500,000 USD. Incorporate your time, we approximate $1.35 million dollars. You certainly would not buy a Swedish 50ft sloop for that price? Thanks again, the fairing does not look like much fun.
Hey Guys, I’ve been watching your boat build from beginning and been vary impressed and cost to build your own is pretty good considering your boat when finished could go for couple million if you ever decide to sell it. Just suggestion have you ever thought about leasing out your barn to another builder? If you and your family are going to be out sailing ocean with your new sail boat you can make money by renting out your barn since you have all tooling and fiberglass setup ready to go. Just suggestion.
You are going to have arms like Popeye....He was a sailor so I guess it's appropriate......what happened to Olive Oyl...this week....it's Amazing what you are doing.......💪💪💪
Adding a bit of pigment to change the color of each layer of fairing compound allows you to see what's going on. The high and the lows will be clearly visible.
Sanding discs for sanding parquet and wooden floors are produced in larger diameters. Not sure if that would be usable? It might be worth a try, sandpapers and sanding mesh are produced in diameters of 330 mm, 380 mm, 406 mm ....
dear malin and johan, thanks so much for being so open about the total cost of the boat so far but i wonder if perhaps i missed it in a previous episode but have you mentioned the cost of working with the designer to get the plans for the boat? this is certainly not a project to be undertaken by the faint of heart and i have been in awe of the work that you have done and with your willingness to share your adventure with the world. wishing you the very best and continued success is ALL of your endeavors.
Great info as always! Love the breakdown of the costs - you've done amazingly well sourcing all your materials. Only thinks missing is 'sweat equity'. How many hours do you think you and all others spent building the boat? Also, didn't you do a Swedish Meatball recipe at one point? Can't find that one but it would be greatly appreciated!
Great video and cost recap. Sea story time - I once when younger (75 now) faired a Taiwan built glass Peterson 44 by hand . Your method is the same as mine - but I did find larger sanding discs than 200 mm. I used 410 and West Epoxy - it took me a year. Good Luck !!!!👍😎
(My response to a viewer who reached out to me regarding my original response) The Peterson 44 I referred to in my reply was not the Center Cockpit Peterson / Kelly Peterson 44 . It was a CT 44 - designed by Peterson, flush deck - mid ship hatch to the cabin . Very, very similar to a Swan 44. It had blisters, not having $$$’s to have the hull sand blasted professionally we elected to hand grind the gel-coat / blisters. Basically the hull & gel coat was fair from the factory but after 10 years we had blisters.
I don’t know if you are familiar with Mads of SailLife. He did an extensive refit and I noticed you’re using the same tools he did to fair the hull. Maybe he knows an “easy” way. Awesome work y’all have done!
Since you have a cnc router (the hand held one) you can take a thicker plywood for the disk, but cutout "windows" in it to remove the weight. with cnc router you should be able to do it fairly easy with good precision. the thicker plywood is needed to keep it stiff, so it doesn't bend when you push it. Then mount the disk on the polisher and use it as a lathe to make it round with the true center on the mounting nut. The rounding will also balance the disk somewhat and then you can improve it further in the same way as a car wheel is balanced with a new tire, by adding/removing small weight at the edge of the disk. This way you can do a fairly big, fairly lightweight and fairly balanced tool, which is at the end of the day is safer than a random square plywood.
Long time ago we used to use straight line sanders when working on very large projects. As far as I know mainly pneumatic powered and a much safer option than your square board. Be wary of buying second hand air tools I doubt they have been regularly oiled. With your power tool background I would be surprised if you haven't already looked at these. Straight Line Neilsen CT1078 Sealey SA32 Air Long Bed Sander Twin Piston In-line Air Sander CLARKE CAT49 Air Driven Long Bed Sander
@RANsailing Not to mention the buying of the farm and restoration of the barn :-). Would be nice if you declare the hours that went in to it too ;-). Tack för bra videos..
Maybe it's too thick, firm. Perhaps making it not quite runny, like sour cream so it glides on with little effort and less sanding afterward because it creates a thinner coat. Doing several thin coats may work better for you. Wonderful progress!
Some time ago an American built a giant aluminium catamaran. He made himself a very long between 2 to 3 meters sanding board. He also powdered. It wilh pneumatic rams to provide long strokes it seemed to work very well.
You might want to talk with Mads at Sail life. He is a RUclipsr who has done an extensive refit of a warrior that included much fairing and sanding. He may have tips or suggestions. You are doing an amazing job. Best wishes for much success.
Hey, I know sanding discs for flooring sanders. If you can source a sandpaper for those in 300mm you could use the same method you are using with the board only use a very high density pu foam panel cut in a circle and a glue on Velcro pad to secure the sandpaper. Should help with the enertia and balance
Thanks so much for sharing your magic and methods, including the material and tools. in creating this wonderful project. You are s beacon of responsible creativity. It is a solid joy to see your continuing progress.
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
The fact that you're building your dream is priceless.
so true plus for a 50 foot sailboat under 50k so far is really not all that bad im aware they are far from finished, theres some value also to having a hand made boat and your own hands at that truely priceless well if done right if not could end up being a nightmare but these folks seem to have done it right consulting with an engineer and all that
@@rayrayray7494 For their sake, I hope you are correct. For me, there is no way I would take that on the open ocean. I already see way too many issues.
You my friend are a machine. Bravo
I was thinking the same, so much energy and motivation.
I second the motion!
@@CraigGrant-sh3in Canada here, I feel it brother. 76 , retired renovation carpenter. It hurt's just watching.
@@CraigGrant-sh3inIf you would look closer you would see he is Ubermensch, we suffer not from such mortal concerns.
I’m a little long in the tooth to take on a project of this magnitude, however I do get great joy following your progress on Ran II. I also appreciate the transparency of the costs involved, something that is missing from the majority of projects that I follow. I look forward to every Friday with mounting curiosity.
Ran III 😊
So right, I totally forgot about that!
This is by far the most interesting boat build on RUclips now. Great work from a great family :). Thanks
You are doing an amazing job! It’s admirable to see how cool you stay, no matter what comes your way. A true sailor!
"someone thinking of building their own boat"??? not after seeing the incredible amount of work and skill that goes into it :D
Easy peasy if your boat is only three feet long 😂
Johan is an incredibly skilled craft mans!
Actually I could build one if I were his age, then I have built a lot of houses, apartments and race cars as will as old mopar. He and his wife and the captain have accomplished a great deal at a very reasonable price. I hope I see it completed
I don’t know, I’ve failed to finish 2, 1 foot strip plank models, over the years. Sigh.
I am just completing a Paul Gartside designed 26’ cutter. 2 layers of western red cedar over white oak steam bent frames. It’s been a long project, but very satisfying. You learn a lot as you go and being a cabinet maker and finish carpenter, I have the tools and background for the build.
Har arbeidet som plugg og form bygger i 20 år. Det finnes ingen lærebok for dette yrket /jobben kun erfaring. Synes du gjør en god jobb. Tolmodighet og svette er rette måten. Når du synest at overflaten er perfekt da er det tid for sprøytesparkel, ikke før. Dere er hjempeflinke! Er så inponert! Keep up the good work.😊
Spent several years helping friends build a 40 ft Catamaran. The stress broke several marriages but the boat has gone round the world 20 times. Your building methods seem pretty sound. Getting friends to help with phases like sanding will definitely help maintain your body for later life. Sanding machines too. There's nothing quite like noodle arms for helping sleep! What I recall at this stage: Whatever bog/resin/mix that you easily smooth onto the hull, ultimately has to be sanded off. Hard work indeed. Not any shortcuts here, unfortunately except from using younger, fitter friends to share the load. Good luck.
Your plywood sanding plate was brilliant! What is the saying: If it's stupid, but it works, it's not stupid.
SMART!!
Using grinder set up.
You need to way OVER FILL your coats. It will work much better a lot less coats less time less labor. If the overlaps show now they will come back later after paint.
Make sure only red filler is showing on last coat!
So when I saw the sanding invention- I went back and checked the title of the video- since it did not mention a hospital visit - I figured it would work- well done!
It was called Sponge Bob Square Pants by its inventor.
You diden mention how much you payed for the design and plans for the boat love the design 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
You're a braver man than I! Wish you well on this build.
That figure doesn't include all the labour hours you've put in! Incredible stuff ❤
Please check out 12 inch floor sanding discs and pads and always use the most aggressive grit to start. You will need a high amp grinder to turn you set . With light pressure and an alternating X pattern followed by back and forth parallel to the waterline you can produce a surface that you can finish fair with your torture board. Good luck we are right there with you! Keep up the great work on Ran 3 and the videos.
Considering that the average price of a new 50' sailing yacht starts at $400,000+ and goes up from there, I'd say that you are well ahead of the game! I suppose the extensive labor does not count when you are working for yourself. You are building a home on the water AND the means of travel to go where ever the water takes you! That is priceless!!
Good luck finding any 50' new yacht for $400k.
The Hallberg Rassy 50, which is of comparable build quality to Ran III, retails for $1.75 million without the extras.
@@atakd Exactly!
But you forgot the numbers of hours of work that are not mentioned. For a price of about $ 60. - to 80. - an hour...??
Men otrolig talang och osviklig motivation. Bra gjort 👌👋
@@faub79 No, I did not forget the wages at all or the profits that are made by the company that employs the builder's. Most could not build a yacht of this caliber themselve's, so it is a necessary trade-off. The reason I did not factor that in, is because as I stated, they are building for themselves and their wages is the yacht itself. In this case, they are ahead of the game!
This is going to get to $250K before they’re done. They could have bought any number of used yachts for that price and been on the water today, and not have used up 1000’s of hours of their lifetime needlessly.
I admire you being so open on all of the costs. Building the boat from scratch is not for the faint hearted or someone without determination and skills. Boats have always been money pits but I think building it yourself and doing it right will be expensive but you have the opportunity to minimise future costly issues. This boat will be a gem when finished and although costing a lot of money will still be cheaper than buying someone else'e creation with unknown issues but still represent great value for money and be what you want.
Have you set an overall budget for the boat?
Hi Johan, might be of some help regarding the sandpaper on your board. I was a patternmaker and we had a big WADKIN disc sander table, the disc's were approx 1m diameter and we had self adhesive backed sheets. You could probably get 3 or possibly 4 out of 1 sheet if you can find a supplier.
The festool planex sander would work great for that job and trap all the dust also
Thanks
Thanks! 👍😊
What an effort, one man filling a fairing a boat. Impressive! Hard work
I renewed the Teak Deck on my old HR 38...and "I am thinking about" never doing that again. It took me 1.200 hours and I was about to quit during the work sometimes. I wish you all the best hetting over "these times" of frustration smoothly.
The squair disc is great. I have worked in boatt shops that have used it. The best benefit from it is the corners stop the disc from digging into the hull like a standard round disc might. But you can only use on flat and outside curved surfaces!
The largest orbital sanding discs I have seen on Amazon in Canada is 17 inches if that helps you at all. I love that colour of the fairing too lol
That sounds like a good price for materials when seeing what the three of you have accomplished with your hard work.
I also found that breaking the surface of the fairing compound with a power sander before long boarding works very well 😊
Smoothing a finishing layer is very satisfying. You are so fortunate to have such an exciting project.
Thank you for being so open & transparent about the costs. I've always been curious but would never think to ask. By the way, your use of the English language is so very articulate, with perfect word choice, that I can't imagine how you present yourself in your "native tongue."
You are doing a wonderful job and that was a very thorough breakdown of the cost thus far. I really appreciate you sharing the video with us.
Looks like your getting that fairing process down to be the most efficient and easy method. The costs are large, but then so is the boat ! You also get the satifaction that all the work is done correctly and up to your standards.
Looking forward to that first coat of primer ! :)
Cheerz!!!
my hat off to you...that sure is a hell of a lot of work!....looking really good!!..that DIY sanding plate looks like a medieval weapon of death! 😱
Drywall sanding machine? It has a fairly large diameter, not very high rpm, and its purpose is very similar to what you're doing here. It can be connected to a vacuum cleaner.
'Oh Glorious Sanding' - Sail Life
Like drywall mud, the craft is in the putting on enough fairing so you don't sand through.
I just converted your total into DKK (the currency I live with) and GOSH, you’ve done very well indeed. You seek out great deals on things - your patrons should be proud!
Most interesting to watch your progress and attention to detail is an education in itself. I have a boat being built in the Netherlands and it’s time line is 2 1/2 years, with multiple places doing the work. You are a Superman
The barn find of cedar, mahogany and teak was the deal od the century. I would hate to have to price that out a current prices for timber
I think your new sanding method is brilliant. The only thing I would change is make the plywood a round disc instead of a square. I think that would also improve safety also.
Hi Johan, ich verfolge euren Bootsbau sehr gerne! Vielleicht hätte ich dir einen Tipp für die jetzige Schleifarbeit. Für das Bodenschleifen gibt es Tellerschleifer mit richtig großen runden Scheiben (406 mm) und jeder Körnung und Güte. Bin selbst Schreinermeister. Würde mir einen mit Filz belegten runden Teller mit der Shaper bauen auf den ich diese Scheiben spannen könnte und eine kleinere Machine mit weniger Drehzahl verwenden. Vielleicht hilft euch das…..viel Erfolg ihr schafft das! 😊 Björn
Well done so far. I am so impressed. You havent concidered spraying on the fairing compound? Maybe with high pressure airless? To reduce viscosity there are as well HP pumps with a hetaer. In my biew that could save you time, maybe both in the applying but also in the sanding process having a smoother layer to start with.
In regards to the sanding have a look at woodwork disk sanders as I have one that take a 315mm disk. This is for home use. I think there may be bigger ones as the backing plate may be available as the sanding disks are readly available
It may be of some help
I cant do it , but admire you for doing this
BOAT bring out another thousand. I am in mid refit year two and material costs are crazy. Labour of love
Hi, a lot of work ahead! But if you want to make a professional job when fairing you have to apply thin coats and built one over the others. If you do it right, you won't have to sand after each coats that you apply until the last one and then finishing the fairing. If your mixture is not too thick it will be easier to apply, faster and it will give you a better result. Peoples do the same mistakes over and over by wanting to cover it up all in one coat and then they will have to sand it all the night away! And money will go away!! GOOD LUCK to the both of you.
Looking great so far. Can't wait till the launch of RAN-3
Thank you for sharing all the informastion about the costs so far. You have also had a lot of costs for fixing the barn but you could of course add that amount to the costs for buying the property, house and land. One thing I am wonering about is how much you have been able to collect from RUclips of th almost 50000 $ you spent for the boat so far. You have one of the most interesting sailing channels at the moment and I am waiting every week for your new wideo. I understand that may be it will take some more extra time because of the problem with the overlapping glas fibre. Do you think we will be able to see you turning the hull in March. I beleive it is an optimistic guess. Than you for all your videos so far. They are realy entertaining.
Thanks for sharing! At least you know what has gone into your vessel and can be truly confident. Tack för att du delar med dig! Du vet åtminstone vad som har hamnat i ditt kärl och kan vara riktigt säker.
Fascinating video. Many thanks
You should be able to get a pad to attach to the board that you can bolt on. Also I would use a round board. We do the same for molds. Cut the board and bolt holes with your cnc router. That will make the balance much better
Love the MacGyver trial and error (or more succeed in this case 😅) sanding pad! Great reason for trying out new and sketchy things as a non-employee! Stay safe!
There are 400 mm sanding grids for parquet sanding machines
An overview of your costs sofar would be handy!
Thanks for your honesty in explaining the costs. Very interesting. Best not calculate labour charges. That may be a shock. Look forward to next week.
Looks like a enormous amount of sanding. Good luck I know you’ll make it come out perfect.
Over my time spent on this channel, I have concluded that when you guys take on a project, I have full faith that the results will be great. Johan is a very talented and detail oriented craftsman.
Hi guys, may I say I have really enjoyed seeing all your hard work come together and can’t wait to see the finished result. Out of interest that square board on the polishing machine you used for fairing the hull is very similar to something I used years ago for shaping and taking out high spots in the metalwork of car bodies when we used to beat and file them.The difference being is the wood used would be no more than 6mm to 9mm thick, and instead of being square with four points it would have eight points. This helps to control it better and not dig in to the surface / high spots so is less aggressive but still providing the sanding required. Although ours were smaller in diameter I can’t see why it would not work with something bigger, Why not try another prototype and let us know how it goes. Keep up the fantastic work and very best wishes to you all.
Steve from the UK.
Johann: thanks for the update, $46,200 seems quite low for a 50ft boat? You really made out nicely on the price of the cedar, plus all that beautiful mahogany and teak, the interior will look spectacular. If you include the mast, sails, paint and moving her to the water, we estimate an approximate cost of $500,000 USD. Incorporate your time, we approximate $1.35 million dollars. You certainly would not buy a Swedish 50ft sloop for that price? Thanks again, the fairing does not look like much fun.
Hey Guys, I’ve been watching your boat build from beginning and been vary impressed and cost to build your own is pretty good considering your boat when finished could go for couple million if you ever decide to sell it. Just suggestion have you ever thought about leasing out your barn to another builder? If you and your family are going to be out sailing ocean with your new sail boat you can make money by renting out your barn since you have all tooling and fiberglass setup ready to go. Just suggestion.
Money well spent IMO. Great project!
Very interesting episode... Thankyou...
What about the modeling/design machine or software that started the whole build. Never the less awesome watching along.
You are going to have arms like Popeye....He was a sailor so I guess it's appropriate......what happened to Olive Oyl...this week....it's Amazing what you are doing.......💪💪💪
Olive is out trying to chase down Sweet Pea 😅
Adding a bit of pigment to change the color of each layer of fairing compound allows you to see what's going on. The high and the lows will be clearly visible.
You are doing well on costs so far I would way. Well done.
So true.
Sanding discs for sanding parquet and wooden floors are produced in larger diameters. Not sure if that would be usable? It might be worth a try, sandpapers and sanding mesh are produced in diameters of 330 mm, 380 mm, 406 mm ....
dear malin and johan, thanks so much for being so open about the total cost of the boat so far but i wonder if perhaps i missed it in a previous episode but have you mentioned the cost of working with the designer to get the plans for the boat? this is certainly not a project to be undertaken by the faint of heart and i have been in awe of the work that you have done and with your willingness to share your adventure with the world. wishing you the very best and continued success is ALL of your endeavors.
Great info as always! Love the breakdown of the costs - you've done amazingly well sourcing all your materials. Only thinks missing is 'sweat equity'. How many hours do you think you and all others spent building the boat? Also, didn't you do a Swedish Meatball recipe at one point? Can't find that one but it would be greatly appreciated!
Great video and cost recap.
Sea story time - I once when younger (75 now) faired a Taiwan built glass Peterson 44 by hand .
Your method is the same as mine - but I did find larger sanding discs than 200 mm.
I used 410 and West Epoxy - it took me a year.
Good Luck !!!!👍😎
out of curiosity, why did you ned to fair that hull? Those hulls came out of a mould. Did you do a full gelcoat peel or something like that?
(My response to a viewer who reached out to me regarding my original response)
The Peterson 44 I referred to in my reply was not the Center Cockpit Peterson / Kelly Peterson 44 .
It was a CT 44 - designed by Peterson, flush deck - mid ship hatch to the cabin . Very, very similar to a Swan 44. It had blisters, not having $$$’s to have the hull sand blasted professionally we elected to hand grind the gel-coat / blisters.
Basically the hull & gel coat was fair from the factory but after 10 years we had blisters.
I don’t know if you are familiar with Mads of SailLife. He did an extensive refit and I noticed you’re using the same tools he did to fair the hull. Maybe he knows an “easy” way. Awesome work y’all have done!
Boat=bring out another thousand. Really like this boat build.
I'd be tempted to apply second furring without sanding to cover the high spots then when the overlaps cannot be seen then I'd start to sand
Since you have a cnc router (the hand held one) you can take a thicker plywood for the disk, but cutout "windows" in it to remove the weight. with cnc router you should be able to do it fairly easy with good precision. the thicker plywood is needed to keep it stiff, so it doesn't bend when you push it. Then mount the disk on the polisher and use it as a lathe to make it round with the true center on the mounting nut. The rounding will also balance the disk somewhat and then you can improve it further in the same way as a car wheel is balanced with a new tire, by adding/removing small weight at the edge of the disk. This way you can do a fairly big, fairly lightweight and fairly balanced tool, which is at the end of the day is safer than a random square plywood.
AWESOME WORK!!!!!!
Make the disk circular, and that will balance the action.
Yes! I was wondering why he didn't do that. Seems less dangerous...
The sanding pad you made looks good BUT ! Make it round ! That will balance the pad and it will do better
Long time ago we used to use straight line sanders when working on very large projects. As far as I know mainly pneumatic powered and a much safer option than your square board. Be wary of buying second hand air tools I doubt they have been regularly oiled. With your power tool background I would be surprised if you haven't already looked at these.
Straight Line Neilsen CT1078
Sealey SA32 Air Long Bed Sander Twin Piston In-line Air Sander
CLARKE CAT49 Air Driven Long Bed Sander
So proud of you guys ❤️❤️❤️🤙💪
@RANsailing Not to mention the buying of the farm and restoration of the barn :-). Would be nice if you declare the hours that went in to it too ;-). Tack för bra videos..
Maybe it's too thick, firm. Perhaps making it not quite runny, like sour cream so it glides on with little effort and less sanding afterward because it creates a thinner coat. Doing several thin coats may work better for you. Wonderful progress!
Thank you RAN for 383...
Excellent progress on the fairing - revelation how you evolve the best way to do things - cheers.
Some time ago an American built a giant aluminium catamaran. He made himself a very long between 2 to 3 meters sanding board. He also powdered. It wilh pneumatic rams to provide long strokes it seemed to work very well.
Beautiful mountains and skiing trip 😊
You don't need a fitness gym while boat building !
Bravo to you
Sail on.
a very fair and honest cost I'd say, I guessed 50-60K but not far off. Keep you the good work
Try using a air file sander they use them in autobody repair
Floor sanders come in several sizes.
Try a drywallers mudd plate then mouse pad type material glued to it.
hearing those numbers and watching the build i am now redused to a 12 ft dingy that i will buy and just dream
Look at spray adhesive to how sandpaper to disc. You can make the disc any size
You might want to talk with Mads at Sail life. He is a RUclipsr who has done an extensive refit of a warrior that included much fairing and sanding. He may have tips or suggestions. You are doing an amazing job. Best wishes for much success.
oh you mean the glorious fairing and sanding.
I'd recommend an electrical drywall sander, which has a long reach also
good suggestion
Another great show One question How many Man hours?
Great that you've found an easier way to do the fairing process. Wow, that's a lot of money spent already, but understandably so. Great vlog :)
Top, we plan to sail to Puerto Rico
Amazing!
Hey, I know sanding discs for flooring sanders. If you can source a sandpaper for those in 300mm you could use the same method you are using with the board only use a very high density pu foam panel cut in a circle and a glue on Velcro pad to secure the sandpaper. Should help with the enertia and balance
Do a skim coat perpendicular to first coat and it will be smooth
brilliant. I admire you all
You are doing a great job! But it just makes me glad I bought an existing boat...and sailed 16,000 miles in the last two years!
Thanks so much for sharing your magic and methods, including the material and tools. in creating this wonderful project. You are s beacon of responsible creativity. It is a solid joy to see your continuing progress.
May need to have another family get together 😁😁
Once the boat is finished and you are sailing again, will you keep the farm property. It is beautiful. Great job so far !
Pretty sure in their last video where they did a fireside chat, they said they would keep the farm to have the best of both worlds!