The ultimate homemade car jack, simple to use, compact when not in use.
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- Опубликовано: 8 авг 2021
- How I made a car jack for the home mechanic, gives clear access to the entire underside of any car, compact when not in use taking up little space.
IMPORTANT NOTE: When using these lifting frames one end of the lifting frame must always be resting on the floor when the other end is being lifted, as shown in the video. SOME PEOPLE IN THEIR COMMENTS have suggested lifting both ends of the frame at the same time, THIS WOULD BE VERY DANGEROUS because If both ends of the frame were lifted off the floor at the same time there would then be nothing to stop the car wheels rotating, the rotating wheels coupled with the weight of the car could kick the frame and jack from under the car which would then come crashing down, this is why one end of the frame must always be resting on the floor when the other end is being lifted. A lot of thought has gone into designing these frames both for ease of use with safety in mind.
Couldn't you weld a lift point in the middle of the frame and lift both ends at the same time. I know normally you need to lift each side for jacks etc. But with your system would it be possible to lift the back up part way then move to the front and do that part of way and so on if you had a lift point in the middle of the frame. Assuming you built two units. Front and back of course which you did.
@@xray364 READ MY IMPORTANT NOTE AGAIN.
This would beat a damp inspection pit any day.
Não seria possível colocar as medidas para referência. Obrigado
Obrigado por partilhar o seu fantástico projecto. Perfeito
É possível partilhar as suas medidas para referência. Obrigado
John, I feel bad you got all these hate comments. You made something, and it works well. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for the comment, it is nice to know that most people can see the benefits it has.
@@johnbower I've just stumbled on your video and I appreciate the project and the inspiration it gives me to make my own project based on your idea.
Thank you and greetings from Portugal.
@@VitorMadeira Glad you like it, thanks for the comment
Ignore the people that have never built anything in their lives. Very cool invention
Glad you like it, thanks for the comment.
All these people who think they know all. Great job John. I think a lot of people are going to make the same thing.
glad you like it, thanks for watching.
That’s a nice design! I like that you saved material and footprint space by making that cantilevered jack plate removable. Well done, and thanks for sharing.
Elliot Bickle, Yes main reason for having the removable jacking arm is to keep the main frames compact, then when frames are not in use they can be stood up on end in corner of garage, thanks for the comment.
So bloody creative, Well done.
Thanks for having No annoying back ground music, Cheers..
Glad you liked it!
I just started to watch this video and I have to write a comment before I forget. It is nice to see that there are still some of us around that can do a job with bare hands. I bet John Bower is "old school".
Thanks for the comment
I was quite surprised by the 'bare hands' whilst John was welding. Looking at the quality of his welds i would guess he is experienced enough to know he should protect bare skin on his hands from uv light or 'arc burn', not to mention the hot metal.
Handy bit of kit...
Hey John this is an Absolutely Brilliant concept !!! simple and modular, and to the person who says you cant get at the wheels , simply provide two more tubes that are shorter and use the clever double supported design to replace the long ones on the side that needs the wheel removed by simply lifting that side and replacing which shorter support tubes , thus unblocking access to the wheels , they should come out ok Top Marks , this world needs people like you who are not afraid to break ground with fresh ideas . Dont listen to the haters, keep up the good work. and i feel that you have already got half of a towing dolly or car transporter right there, if you just add a couple of struts wheels and a towbar Good on Ya !!!!
Glad you like it, thanks for the comment
John Bower, Thankyou for sharing this DIY quality piece of garage equiptment. Your generosity and expertise are much appreciated.
Ron Hateley, Glad you like it, thank you for your comment.
What a remarkable design and quality workmanship! Thank you for sharing, I'm glad I saw this today. I'm always lifting my cars in my workshop with jackstands; they're a bit of a pain lining them up just right all the time. Something like this would be very useful for me.
Thanks for the comment
It not really a Jack, it a car stand. You can't take a wheel off if you find you have a problem. It just seems ita lot of work to get the car up in the air. It would be easier to use Jack stands
Peter Edwards .(a) You did not watch the complete video. (b) Anyone with any common sense would be able to see the car can easily be lowered onto jack stands if wheels need to be removed.
You know as well as I do, it hard work the way you lifted the car.
Hydraulic jack may be used to lift the control arms or frame without lowering his contraption to remove the tires.
@@albertcassler8763 you would need a tall Jack to do that, wouldn't be very stable.
@@albertcassler8763 (a) You won,t get all four wheels 500mm off the floor by jacking under the control arms. (b) if you tried jacking my car up from under the control arms you would be in serious trouble.
This was a nice build and very well executed ! My hat is off to you sir! I like it!
Thank you very much!
SUPER! Well done sir John!!!
Thanks for the comment.
Very nice solution in my opinion. Thank you for sharing and for sharing the dimensions of the stock. Best to you and yours.
John Proctor, thank you for your comment
One word "WOW". Most stable platform I've seen. Next project, a carriage that can interface your lift to the frame or jack points so you can remove all your tires.
Michael Dovorak, I have made plans to build four oversize sturdy stands that will fit under the four dedicated jacking points below the car sills, then if wheels need to be removed the stands can be positioned under car and the lifting frames can be removed. thank you for your comment
@@johnbower I can't wait to see it. Thank you for sharing.
Fantastic! Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks for the comment
Great idea AND fantastic craftsmanship
Glad you like it, thanks for the comment
Great job. This is the best DIY home jack I've seen.
Glad you like it, thanks for the comment
a $200 motorcycle jack and 4 axle stands would do the same job in half the time
Great setup ! !
Glad you like it thanks for the comment
Very smart,THX John!
@ Alan Rosenberg, Glad you like it thanks for the comment.
Great idea. Useful for a long term project or restoration!
glad you like it thanks for the comment
An excellent design John!!!!!! Simple in the approach yet very stable adressing all horizontal and vertical stability issues!!!!
Glad you like it! thanks for the comment.
Glad you like it, thanks for the comment
@@johnbower My dad was a machinist and then became a mechanical engineer in the early days of the aerospace programs....i recognize and appreciate true quality!
This is a very nice design and very nice work. Going along with what some others have said , if you place bottles jack in the middle of your frames( that hold the posts, build a frame around the bottle jack you then could use them.
If i could post a pic i would.
I also like the fact when your not using them they dont take up much space, also they would work with lowered cars.
thanks for the comment
thank you for sharing...great idea.
Thanks for your comment
The main thing is to remember the limits of shop ‘s ceiling😂
Whatever it’s a great stand!
Yes ceiling height is something to keep an eye on, when first testing the lift ( as in the video) I did not think about the ceiling as I was concentrating on how the lift was performing, but luckily the ceiling was high enough. thanks for the comment.
Awesome idea. Thanks for sharing.
glad you like it , thanks for watching
Nice job, simple but effective design.
Thank you! Cheers!
I would love to see if you could incorporate some two ton bottle jacks connected with possibly a hydraulic line from one to lift simultaneously, wow what a great build outstanding
YMA. Note: the advantage of lifting from underneath the car wheels, weight is kept on all four wheels even when one corner of the car is being lifted due to articulation in the suspension, this keeps things safe when lifting a car using my lifting frames providing one pair of frame legs are firmly on the floor while the other pair are being lifted.
The disadvantage of lifting from under the wheels is if you try to lift both rear wheels or front wheels at the same time there is nothing stopping the wheels rotating and kicking the frame and jack from under the car as the weight of the car came crashing down, that is the reason why one pair of the frame legs must always be resting on the floor when the other pair is being lifted. Thank you for your comment.
Howdy! This a great idea for home use. I do have a question, would it be possible to box in a bit in the middle and use a floor jack to raise and lower the vehicle at that reinforced point? And I must mention, your welding is brilliant and you should build one out of stainless to show off those stacked dimes!
Dave Radke, As for your suggestion of welding a central jacking point in the frames this would be dangerous, If you attempted to lift two wheels off the floor at the same time then none of the frame legs would have any weight on them, there would be nothing to stop the car wheels rotating, this rotating action coupled with the weight of the vehicle could then kick the frame and jack from under the car as it came crashing down. You need to be careful when using a trolley jack at the best of times, if trolley jack wheels are prevented from rolling forward (due to a small ridge or stone under it's wheels) the jack arm will pull backwards from under what it is trying to lift, that is the reason I have designed the frames to be jacked one side at a time, (a) you can clearly see if the jack saddle is slipping out of position, (b) when any one side of the frame is being jacked up the other side will always be resting on the floor. Thank you for your comment.
@@johnbower Makes perfect sense, safety first! Cheers
Nicely done. Savings from one trip to a auto repair shop would buy the raw materials.
Glad you like it thanks for the comment
I think that it is an outstanding design and build. Thank you I for allowing us to see it. There are many times that you need to lift a car in the air to work on a mechanical part that’s does not involve the wheels. I never feel safe being under a car while it is on jack stands. I always block up the wheels if I am going to work on it from underneath.
Glad you like it thanks for the comment
Nice job. Tow trucks use a similar system where they put a bar in front and behind the wheels and chain them together then lift by the wheels. if you made one bar fixed and the other free to slide under the car and then attach to the frame with a pin or bolt, then you wouldn’t have to back over the bars to get the wheels between them. You could place the jacks under front and back wheels at the same time.
Thanks for watching
Hello Mr Bower , I skipped through the build process because i knew exactly where you were going , Now then iv also read all the comments and there are a lot of negative comments people just dont the grab the simplicity of your idea , I see this as a very good frame for lifting a car of any size from a fiat to a landrover and once up to the height you want put four heavy duty axle stands in then you can remove all four wheels and work away quiet happily . Now then for a seasoned home mechanic who cant afford a car ramp this is brilliant and with 2 / or 4 air hydraulic bottle jacks this could be lifted with ease , BUT a good compressor would be a requirement then air tools come in to play , naysayers have no vision Stan .
Glad you like the idea, thank you for your comment.
Good job~! Respect~! I will try it~! Thanks.
Glad you like it, thanks for the comment
Beautiful welds. Very creative.
Thanks for the comment.
Nicely engineered 👍
Thanks 👍
Love it. Nice work
Glad you like it, thanks for the comment.
@johnbower I've just stumbled on your video and I appreciate the project and the inspiration it gives me to make my own project based on your idea.
Thank you and greetings from Portugal.
Thanks for the comment,
oh a lovely job, i am going to share this with a gto owner he needs this badly.
thanks for the comment
Very well done. Compliments.
Thank you very much!
A wonderful concept. Great idea. Here in the US I'm going to have to beef up the design to HD. My vehicles weigh in the 4000 lbs to 6600 lbs range. 1800kg to 3000kg
Thanks for the comment, Just for your interest the main frame of the lift is made from 60mm square box section with a 3mm wall, the legs are made from galvanized tube 48,7mm diameter with a 4mm wall, it comfortably supports my Volvo XC40 which weighs close to 1800kg.
As an engineer I think this is absolutely OUTSTANDING! I have always maintained my own vehicles struggling for HOURS to jack a whole vehicle up enough to only SQUEEZE under! I had a turbo change to do TWICE on one vehicle (don't ask I was sent a duff turbo first off) and you pretty much nee to sit up UNDER it. The turbo is in a place that can barely be reached from under the bonnet, necessitating it being jacked HIGH to be able to work easily. May I suggest adding 'spreader feet' to the uprights (square foot plates) - as I have no garage only a gravel drive , to stop them sinking into soft ground? I have to use 'jacking boards' (thick plywood boards) to stop my axle stands and jacks just sinking into the ground. You need to patent this and sell them PLEASE!!👍👏👏👏👏
@scopex2749, When designing this car lift I did consider welding plates to the bottom of the legs for use on soft ground, but this would have made it difficult to slide fit the legs into the frames, also by not having plates welded to the legs means less storage space needed when not in use, So I decided that if the lift was to be used on soft ground metal plates could simply be placed under the legs when needed. Thank you for your comment.
Nice job mate 👌🏴🇬🇧
glad you like it, thanks for the comment
Well done! Simple design for a useful lift. I like the toe jack adapter, too. But, it seems like a lot of labor just to get floor space in order to roll around on your sled.😀
Thanks! 👍
hello john. great job! You know i will ask you what box section/thk you used :):) and if any particular reason you went for round for the legs. thank you for sharing. hope you are doing fine these crazy times. take care.
ps if for any reason you can't share the data is ok too. :)
Hi Peter, Box section is 60mm x 3mm wall. When making the telescopic legs tube was the way to go, (it had advantages over square), it did not need to be a snug fit inside the box section as it was easy to make snug fitting guide plates to prevent any side play, it is ready available galvanized, it is easier to handle and I think it looks better. Thanks for the comment.
Amazing. Simple and safe.
glad you like it, thanks for the comment
Maybe if You use it in front of rear wheels and behind front wheels it could be a great idea. A lot of home-made mechanic job is in wheels, suspension, breaks, and so on
Great job, awesome idea
My first idea was to lift under the sills, but after a lot of thought I decided it was best in many ways to lift under the wheels, and if I need to remove wheels I place jack stands under the sills and remove the frames away from under wheels. thanks for the comment.
Look safe for working under a car, as mentioned wouldn’t be difficult to have additional parts to lift the frame if working on the wheels or suspension. Nice work
Thanks for the comment
@@johnbower its a very interesting idea as are some of your other projects on RUclips
What a cool project!
Thanks for the comment
Nice job John, not your first time using a welder I guess. What sort of cost do you have in it? How does it compare to getting a car hoist? Prices have come down a lot and they are more accessible to the average home mechanic these days. I known they are less than 3k Aus $ where I live.
56WagonWheel, One main advantage with my car lift ( opposed to off the shelf car lifts ) it does not have or need any built-in hydraulic mechanism, this keeps material costs to a minimum. thanks for your comment.
Thank you so much, its been a great inspiration to do something similar.
Would it be possible to share the measurements?
The measurements are what ever you want to lift. Looks like 2x2 square tube 3/16-1/4 inch thick
@@cheeseymccheese7249 Thank you.
However, I was more interested in the general dimensions of the construction. He already stated in one of the comments that he used "Box section 60mm x 3mm wall" ...
Since he is using an SUV and I'm probably going to utilize it with smaller cars it'll be great to have some sort of reference to go by. That way I can still use it with bigger cars if I need to.
So @John Bower: How long are the horizontal beams, left to right? How far apart are the beams, front to back? How far did you space the "guide pipes", up and down?
Taking the Volvo's width of about 1,9m into consideration I would guess about 2,1m left to right maybe?
Thanks :D
MrMrBanana, The main frames are made from 60mm box section with 3mm wall. Legs are made from 48.5mm O.D. galvanized tube with 4mm wall. Inside width of main frame is 1970mm. 250mm between bottom frame rails (where wheels sit). 250mm vertical measurement between top and bottom leg guides plates. 420mm I.D. between legs on each side. The cantilever bracket for jacking is made from 50mm box section with 3mm wall. When my Volvo XC40 is on the frames there is approx 50mm clearance between the outside of each rear wheel and the frame on each side, "this clearance needs to be kept to a minimum" to keep the weight of the vehicle close to the legs, when lifting smaller cars which are narrower this clearance does become greater, but smaller cars with less weight will not be a problem. Note: high quality welds are needed on all frame joints, "a weld is NOT a weld" if it has not been carried out correctly with proper preparation.
@@johnbower Thanks a lot, Ill make sure the welds are properly made.
Great idea. Need to fabricate some of these myself! Do you have plans?
thanks for the comment
Check out my reply to MrMrBanna's same question above, thanks again for your comment.
excellent and safe idea. i would want the base frame adjustable or wider for different width vehicles
P N. Note: My Volvo XC40 is quite a wide vehicle so most other cars do fit on the frames as they are narrower, but for wider vehicles I think best solution here just have two sets of frames with one set of legs, the legs would would be interchangeable between the frames. Thanks for the comment.
Интересная конструкция, спасибо за идею!
Thanks for the comment
Can each lift points be modified by using 1.5 ton bottle jacks (priced at low as $15 each) provide at least 2 rest points to compensate for Jack's low lift stroke . Your design would be useful when doing brakes and tire rotations if your units are positioned under factory lift points using , if needed spacers can be added at factory lift point to your dual bars. These 2 maintenance procedures would make very useful with your design.
Jorge Watanabe. trying to use bottle jacks would cause problems. For stability you need a three ton trolley jack available for £90 to £150.
As for your suggestion of placing the frames under the factory lifting points this again would cause problems,
(a) due to the frames being closer to the centre of the car more weight would be placed on the frame being lifted.
(b) you would not be able to open the car doors as the frame legs would be in the way.
(c) the frames would be close to the underside of the car restricting access to exhaust pipe etc.
(d) The car would not be stable during lifting as not all lift points would be bearing weight (car would be rocking)
Lifting under the wheels as I do is best, if you need to remove wheels just lower car onto jack stands placed under factory lift points.
Good job ❤
Thanks for the comment
genius, congratulations
James Puig, thanks for the comment
John, if you added removable tubing to tie the front and back frames together into a linked box frame, would it eliminate the rotational problem with using a center line jacking point?
Great design. I have something very similar in plan.
If the frames where properly linked together, with a bigger size of box section used for the main cross pieces, then yes you could lift one of the frames up from a central point providing the other frame was resting on it's four legs, but this would complicate the build, It would cost more and take up more space to store the frames when not in use.
Это лучший вариант из всего, что я нашёл!!! А если добавить немного фантазии можно ещё доработать. Супер!!!👍👍👍👍👍🤝
Thanks for the comment
I like this design. It is simple, elegant, and actually compact. I would like to improve on the design by having the feet pulled down by a spring and a one way sprag clutch system so that they will automatically push down and keep the device firmly planted on the tires when you jack it up. That would solve the single corner lift as it is now. Then you can jack up both sides at a time from the center section. Either that or add hydraulic cylinders to the end corners, but then you lose the light weight design. Either way, it's an awesome design and your welding is unreal! Thanks!
@demomoss, I do have a hydraulic car lift made for the home user, but due to it taking up space, and hydraulic hoses trailing across the floor, it takes time to set it up, and does not give clear access you are having to work around it, because of these problems I decided to design and build a lift that was simple to use, giving clear access when in use, and when not in use it stands on end in corner of garage taking up little space, thank you for your comment.
I like the jack you made for the car. I am pondering make me one. What I would like to make is one from aluminum. Do not know what reason for the metal choice other than the look. Have yourself a wonderful day John. I look forward to see more great videos from you Sir. Peace too. vf
Victory First, thank you for your comment. Note: steel has more tensile strength than aluminum, if aluminum is used then larger sections will be required.
@@johnbower Would using stainless steel work out better ??
@@victoryfirst2878 Carefully fabricated stainless steel with good clean tig welded joints would be excellent, but the cost of materials would make it impractical. Best solution in my opinion is tig welded mild steel frame coated in red oxide paint, with legs made from galvanized steel tube.
@@johnbower The reason I asked you John is that I have access to all kinds of alloys at super reasonable prices. I live near a surplus metal outlet and know the owner. That is why I said what I said. Would you care to give your thoughts on alloy types Sir ???
Thank you for you time too...
Bu insan iyi yada kötü bir iş yapmış internete oturup kötü yorum yapanlar arabanın yağ seviyesini kontrol etmeyi bilmiyor güzel bir çalışma olmuş eksik tarafları düzeltilebilir
Thanks for the comment
I worked many years in the lift industry and what I can say is that your welds are much nicer that what I seen.
the major inconvenient of your design is that most of the time you lift a vehicule is to work on the wheels so the application is limited
very good video.
If you watch the complete video you will see that wheels can be removed if needed, Thanks for the comment
Excellent design & well engineered; regarding the comments about it being a slow process to get the car fully jacked up, maybe a high-lift jack or even an air jack would help speed things up.
Thank you for your comment
Good idea
glad you like it, thanks for the comment
Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for the comment
That's great John - thanks for sharing! A really simple design with low cost, easy to fabricate, use and store. Really good job :) One question - would it be stronger for the posts to have the holes drilled alternating 90 degrees? Or doesn't matter?
@ApprenticeGM, As for which is the best way to drill the leg holes. Because I use heavy gauge galvanized steel tube with a 4mm wall thickness it does not really matter which way the holes are drilled, but looking at it with an engineering point of view it is best to have them drilled inline and pointing the same direction the car is pointing, this way will give slightly more strength to the legs when they are tilting. Thank you for your comment
I went back and saw how you oriented the pins and your explanation made sense.
Magic!!
Thanks
John: Brilliant design: I looked through the description and comments and did not see a materials list. Would you mind providing the outer dimensions and wall thickness of the square pipe as well as the diameter and wall thickness of the round pipe? I'd appreciate it a lot as I'm planning to build a set. Also: Any reason why you used round tubing for the legs rather than square tubing?
Main frame 60mm box section with 3mm wall thickness, legs 48.5mm outside diameter galvanized tube with 4mm wall thickness, leg pins 12mm diameter 8.8 grade high tensile steel bolts, cantilever bracket for jacking made from 50mm box section with 3mm wall. Reason for not using square legs, I was unable to find a snug fitting size to slide inside the uprights, also if a snug fitting size was available it would bind against the internal weld seam of the section it slides into, other reason for using round legs, guide plates with snug fitting round holes can easily be made for the legs to slide through. thanks for the comment
Love the lift, and the owl! Respectfully, I do have a possible suggestions/questions.
1. Why not lift and lower from the center?
2. With the addition of a couple pucks the jack could be placed under the lift points of the vehicle.
@veritas6466, To your suggestion no 1. That would be dangerous, one end of frame must be firmly on the floor while other end is being lifted in case wheels rotate.
To your suggestion no 2. If these frames where positioned under the sill jacking points you would have problems, I will name a few (a) you would not get the car as high without having longer frame legs and a higher jack, (b) jacking point centers are not all the same on all car sills, so different frames would be needed for different cars. (c) lifting at four different points under the car sills would cause the car to wobble, where as when lifting under the wheels you get the advantage of articulation from the car suspension which prevents any wobbling. (d) If these frames went across under the sills they would obstruct the car doors from opening, there would also be very little clearance between the frames and the underside of the car for changing things such as the exhaust pipe etc.
Note: a lot of thought has gone into designing these frames both for simplicity with safety in mind.
@@johnbowerI was fairly confident you had considered those options and was looking forward to your thoughts. Again, nice work.
Perfect 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
thanks for watching
Great help to put your winter wheels under, oh wait....
You don't need a car lift to change a wheel, but I think you need some help, thanks for watching.
nice!!!
Thanks!
Great device. Thank you. Is something similar available for motorcycles?
Thanks for the comment, I do believe there are motorcycle lifts you can buy.
@@johnbower Thank you for your answer. Sure, you can buy something like that. Just like lifts for cars. But doing it myself would be an interesting tonic for me.
Great idea, but... If you want to replace something in suspension it'll be difficult to do. I know, that that you use jacks stands but if you use scissor jack you can put jack stand too. It's only good for servicing I think
Piotr W. Thanks for the comment. Note : scissor jacks are not designed for regular use, they are only designed for occasional use such as a road side wheel change, they also have limited safe lifting height. With my jack frames any job under the car can be tackled, wheels can safely be lifted off the floor 500mm if needed. When wheels or suspension need to be worked on, the car can be lowered onto 2 or 4 jack stands positioned beneath the vehicle's designed jacking points.
@@johnbower yeah you have right, but better option will be lift up for car sills jacking points. You can connect your idea with this from this video. ruclips.net/video/rQojAnd7xkI/видео.html
And that will be the best option. Best regards.
On my Corolla E110, i got one point center front and center rear to lift the entire front or rear of the car, super easy, sad that many cars don't have that.
@@johnbower Okay, but if you're going to use jack stands you don't need this framework at all.
@@brianb-p6586 (a) Jack stands do not lift a car they only support the car. (b) No standard jack will completely lift a car 700mm (28") off the floor as my lifting frames do, (c) I do also have high jack stands that will support a car at 700mm (28") off the floor, I will be showing how I made these stands in another video.
Thank you…
glad you like it thanks for watchng
Bravo. I have reviewed many videos and designs of jacks and lifts, your design is the most ideal and simple. Please accept my sincere thanks, you have helped me a lot. Good luck to you in your work and you have a lot of brilliant ideas. Greetings from Russia.
Glad you like it thanks for the comment.
Yes, I have seen that it is the result of good reasoning that has simplified and optimized the construction, if you can give me some advice I would be grateful. Sorry for the english but i use google translator. I saw that the jack attachment system must be precise but I won't make it identical to yours because I have two air/hydraulic jacks available that I would like to use in pairs. This will result in a higher jack contact point. Furthermore, the ground level where I could work is not very regular so I would like to place a sheet metal triangle on at least two perforated columns so as not to rock the whole. Could you tell me what measurements are the square tubes? Thanks bye
Marco Fabbricat. When jacking the frame up at one end the other end legs must always be resting on the floor (not on a jack), only jack each end up no more than 150mm at a time before jacking the other end. Note: "never ever" try jacking both ends at the same time the car wheel can rotate and kick the frame and jacks away. I have shown all measurements in one of the other comments on this site. thank you for the comment.
@@johnbower Thanks again for the information, very important and valuable. I understood and you were right to let me know and I completely agree with you, I will look in the previous comments for more details, is it possible to contact you via email?
wow great design, if you have a jack on both sides it will be perfect
To have the lifting frame on two jacks would be dangerous, if neither end of the frame is resting on the floor there is nothing stopping the car wheels rotating, this rotating action coupled with the weight of the car could then kick the frame and jack from under the car wheels. Thank you for the comment
Nicely done, is there a list of materials used?
Main frame is made from 60mm square box section with 3mm wall . legs are made from galvanized tube 48.7mm outside diameter with 4mm wall . pins for the legs are 12mm diameter 8.8 grade high tensile steel. cantilever arm for jacking made from 50mm square box section with 3mm wall. thanks for watching.
Quite nifty IMO !
Glad you like it
That's a great idea... and it works. at 30:00 I was wondering... if you could incorporate the mechanism of a pump truck, ones they use in warehouses, maybe you can get an even lift by only having to jack up from one side..? Might not work or be as stable as you'd probably need wheels on one side.
I don't know... the thought just popped in my head, thought I'd share. Great job!
Thanks for the comment
Nice one... and then You can attach small wheels to each "leg" and move the car around if You need!
David Omberg, This must not be attempted unless both frames are securely braised together with diagonal braising.
@@johnbower You are right but that must be easy to do. Great job anyway.
What a boss
Thanks
Brilliant !
Glad you like it, thanks for the comment
первый этап)- хорош..вторым этапом можно ,убыстрить процесс,)- подымая за середину конструкции...предврительно сварив упор по центру!
СПАСИБО ВАМ ЗА ИДЕЮ...это Гениально!!!
дополнение): если сварить лапу торцевую под углом , то и кронштейна навесного)- не надо.. СПАСИБО!!!
Thanks for watching.
Nice design but allot of work. I made a beam which mounts on the service jack. It spans the vehicles suspension members to lift the front from a central point. Only issue is my newest car is to low to move the service jack under the car in one step.
Mike Fennema, Yes most modern cars do not have suitable jacking points for a service jack, this is the main reason I decided to build these Jacking frames, just drive onto them and jack them up, if needed I can safely lift the underside of the car 700mm off the floor. Thank you for your comment.
What exactly will you be doing to the vehicle after going through all the work to raise it?
@Hugo-Fust, To answer your question and anyone else who's not mechanically minded, this car lift is actually simple and safe to use, and in a few minutes can lift any car to a comfortable height in order carry out any type of repair or maintenance needed to the underside, also any repairs to outer bodywork is made easier when the car is higher off the ground, it is also very useful for car restoration projects. Thanks for the comment.
Excellent for retired folks with a vast amount of time on their hands to jack up the vehicle.
thardyryll, This car lift is designed for occasional use by the home mechanic, It's able to completely lift their car up with 700mm ( 28") of clearance beneath the car if needed, "most" people have common sense and can do this in a few minutes using this system. thank you for the comment.
LOL
.....Or for folk with a vast amount of time on their hands to write negative comments.
Please provide a link to your video(s)....Mmm?
@@patagualianmostly7437I realize that your frame of reference for how long it takes to write those 18 words is your own faculty with the English language, but in my case it took seconds. As for posting videos, of what? Screwball gizmoids like the stands in this vid, which make virtually every under-vehicle repair or maintenance procedure difficult or impossible?
@@thardyryll I am sure you will understand one day
Cool idea, what was cost to build something like this.
If you have the tools and experience to build these frames yourself, then cost of material would be around three hundred pounds
Impressive!
Thanks for the comment
Great idea although a little slow to operate. It may work slightly better using a fam jack or multiple farm jacks. Well done though.
Thanks for the comment, Note: it would be dangerous to use more than one jack, when any one side of the frame is being lifted the other side of the frame must always be resting on the floor.
Дед крутой!!С уважением, привет из России😊
thanks for watching the video
Solid construction 👍but relative heavy, and you must manovre the car back and forth, there is not always enough space!
Would be a nice posibility to seperate the outer "lifting frame" apart from the two long tubes, or?
Easier to handle and positionig, also the storage with less space.
@schwellenzaehler4564, Having the frames made up into sections as you have suggested would not work because you still have to get the long sections of the frames underneath the tyres, it would also complicate fabrication and assembling the frames. Storing the frames when not in use is not a problem as the design allows them to be stood up on their ends in a corner taking up little space. Thank you for your comment.
John, I did not suggest lifting both ends together . I suggested one end (left and right wheels) at a time sequentially . Lift rear centrally (both rear wheels) to a safe level,then peg off, then do same to front end . End for end . Still incrementally lifting BUT half the operation.
@arcboutant, A lot of thought has gone into designing these frames both for ease of use with safety in mind. What you have suggested would be very dangerous, please read my IMPORTANT NOTE pinned at the top of the comments.
Великолепно!!! Если сделать боковые направляющие немного ниже, не нужно было бы кататься туда сюда - просовывал бы раму сбоку.
Thanks for the comment
Thats very nice design and I like that idea. But I do not need to do this because I dont work on any cars so I don't need to do this. I would suggest people who are going to work on it to think more carefully because if anything goes wrong, it will collapse and it will crush you to death. Here is what you need to do to make sure that you know what to do before you go ahead. Make sure that you weld it correctly using with gas NOT with electricity because electricity weld do not do very good. It will not hold metal to metal in place as I have tried on my car and it didnt do very good. You are better off to go with gas welding. Make sure that the metal are holding together in place and make sure they are very strong for your safety. Before you jack up make sure you have something to support under the jack for support and backup as you don't want the car to go crush under you when you work under your car. Good luck, be careful and be safe guys.
thanks for watching the video
If the only place you can lift the car is at the jacking points under the cill then it's a good idea but otherwise you might as well just jack the car up with a jack and then put the axle stands under the car.
Rather than the tube uprights you could use adjustable scaffold feet. The flat plates at the bottom also spreads the load which at the moment is concentrated on the very narrow ends of the uprights which at the very least could damage the concrete and you have no realistic chance of using the device on any other type of flooring such as tarmac or block paving.. Not many people have a garage that size - not in the UK at least. So the work is likely to be done outside on the aforementioned tarmac and block paving.
@we-are-electric1445, To your first suggestion, Most modern cars only have four jacking points, these are at designated positions under the car sills, so when jacking the car up at these jacking points, It is not possible to get an axle stand into place when the jack is under the jacking point.
To your second suggestion, If you need to use the lifting frames on soft ground then just position a metal plate under the legs. If the legs had fixed plates attached to the bottom of them you would not be able to assemble the legs into the frame as I show in the video.
Note: A lot of thought has gone into designing these frames both for simplicity with safety in mind.
Вы Гений-Волшебник)... НОУ-ХАУ!!!
Thanks for the comment.
I would like to build one of these lifters. Would you have a materials list? Thanks
I have listed materials complete with measurements, listed in one or two of my replies to previous comments