Musk in perfume - A guide for perfumers
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- Опубликовано: 28 июл 2024
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References:
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zanos.co.uk/news/alluring-syn...
www.sylvaine-delacourte.com/e...
Timestamps:
00:00 - Introduction to musks
02:31 - History and types of synthetic musk
15:50 - Tips if you have trouble smelling musks
19:40 - Composing perfumes with musks
Musk is like garlic in a food. You can't like garlic on its own. But you can tell the difference of food with and without garlic. Garlic gives depth, layers, and blends together different flavors in your food.
Interesting idea - although garlic is often perceived as unpleasant alone unlike musks
Well said
But garlic and musk are both yummy alone
Yes if you exclude natural musk. Natural musk is a complete perfume in itself like Oud.
Thanks Sam. Interesting thing with helvetolide that I’ve noticed is that it is perceived from top note to base note in a formula. One of the few musks that can do that. Might want to add it to your arsenal of aroma chemicals😉
Similar to Applelide then (I forgot to mention)!
I loved this video. Your videos just keep getting better and better.
Thank you!
Thank you Sam, for another exquisite and detailed job 😊
Thank you 🙏
Thanks Sam as usual your videos carry such simple but vital information Ty once again for the knowledge imparted
Thanks!
Of course, Sam. I want to see more and more.👏👏👏
Fascinating! I never knew the richness of this subject. I'm most definitely hooked. Love your channel
Glad you enjoy it!
Thanks for the breakdown about musk modules very informative Sam
Thanks!
Really nice walkthrough! Would love to know more about the setup of the workstation behind you and tips/tricks (like those...cardholders? for pipettes)!
I am thrilled for this chemically accurate perfumery instruction :D
Glad you enjoy it!
wonderful it refreshed my knowledge. Lucky I have smelled original Musk. Thanks
Thank you
Another informative presentation. Nice Hx of Musks. This kind of background information makes for a well-rounded perfumer. You could make your dilutions in DPG so as to avoid waiting for the EtOH to evaporate. Also, I hope that the substance glowing in the jar next to you is not Kryptonite
Thank you! Yes indeed DPG is an option but I’m happy to wait for the alcohol to evaporate. That way I’m not bound to amounts of DPG which I may not want in my final fragrance. And kryptonite it may or may not be… 😉
I rewatched this and found that I had forgotten many good observations made in it. Perusing the section on musks in the book Scent and Chemistry is a truly brilliant idea for those who are interested in this topic, and there are a couple of dangling accord ideas Sam noted in here that are worth chasing whether he ever went back and looked into them or not. Really good video! 🐂🧪
Great video Sam!!
Thank you!
thank you discussing the chemistry. Really wanted to see the aromatic compounds (no pun intended)
Thank you!
Great video!
I honestly have a hard time telling the musks apart.
I usually just grab the ones that are easiest for me to detect - ethylene brassylate, galaxolide and velvione.
But I have to admit I might be partial to velvione because of the name.
It just sounds nice.
Haha well that’s very easy to do - it really takes a lot of time to get to know the musks, I’m still learning myself
Excellent, could you also talk about Linalool and how to use it?
thank you very much !!
Often you use it accidentally since it’s found in many naturals. Otherwise you would probably add it to provide a soft natural element to accords.
thanks
Great Video. Can you tell how do you clean your glas jars and your glas containers? I have problems with it although I put them in the dishwasher.
The dishwasher should work and you can try hot soapy water. Otherwise you can wash with alcohol or acetone but this poses a health and safety risk so be careful
@@sammacer thank you :))
Hey Sam, highly useful as always. Thank You. I wonder what concentration of musks is in heavy musk-centric fragrances? Maybe you've already smelled Silver musk (Nasomatto)? In this case, I wonder which musks are used?
I haven’t smelled that one! I wouldn’t be surprised to see them used at over 50% of the concentrate in musk heavy compositions
35+% of the total perfume in Chanel No. 5, supposedly. And that would have contained nitro musks still.
Does Deer Musk improve projection or “diffusive” properties of Attar oils it is layered with? I have a 10% Nepalese Deer Musk macerated in Sandalwood and I am curious how this would influence My attars or fragrances. Any feedback you can provide would be greatly appreciated
Thanks Sam for the amazing guide
I've watched nearly all you videos
I want to make a perfume with smoky middle notes .. what ingredients should i use ?
I think the most obvious thing to try would be rectified cade oil, although guaiacol might work too
Plus guaiacwood. Plus birch tar. Do Jean Carles to balance these in a Smoke Accord (that you can continue to use elsewhere), instead of just ending up with a smoking mess.
Hey Sam, I havent seen a lot of talk about Tonalide while Galaxolide is widely talked. Both are Polycyclic musk although Tonalide has stronger scent, why isnt it widely used and talked about?
There are many musks out there - only a few are famous. Perfumers use them, they just aren’t in the popular culture limelight
Hello Sam, thank you for another informative and quite enjoyable video. I have two questions for you.
1. Should I dilute Top Notes too or because of their weak performance and higher volatility compared to Mid and Bottom Notes they shouldn’t be diluted?
2. I am having a trouble with dissolving Musk Ketone. I am trying to get a 10% solution but it doesn’t dissolve. I’ve already tried Alcohol, DPG, IPM.
Thank you. Yes, that is a good reason to dilute the top notes and ensure your perfume isn’t too top heavy. As for musk ketone, I wouldn’t know since I don’t have it unfortunately, maybe you could ask on basenotes
Musk ketone dissolves in benzyl benzoate or hedione
@@TheBuduig hedion itself has an powerful smell, not sure about benzyl benzoate I only own Methyl Benzoate. There is nothing odorless that Musk Ketone dissolves in?
@@Bougieboulevard I know, but also BB has its own smell. Other possibility is to use it directly in your blends (without prediluting it before). I am not aware of any odourless AC that could dissolve Musk ketone.
Use diethyl phthalate, dilute to 10%
You seem to know a lot about scents. So you may know the answer to my question. I have noticed a dry bitter scents in many fragrances. The last 2 that I've noticed it in have been Aqua djio profundo and Escentric Molecules 02. Do you know what this scent is?
Musk
Can you use tonalide if you dont have galaxolide? By describing all musk as a canvass, did you mean that I can use or add it to all perfume blends that I have?
You can try replacing it but replacements will never smell exactly the same. And yes, musks will work in almost any perfume!
@@sammacer thanks Sam! You inspire me a lot and I understand you very well!
Hi Sam,
Is this a daft question?.. can anyone buy a Musk Ketone Substitute and add a couple of drops to an existing everyday perfume? To add a clean edge to the perfume?
You could try that if you want to
I got white musk and it smells quite strong. Is that bad?
No
Sam I couldn't not find any by which I can learn how to make hedion molecule . Can you make vedios on there synthesis ?
Or please please suggest me any site where I can study the synthesis of hedion .
I’m sorry but I don’t know the best synthesis. I would recommend buying some already made. If you want to make your own, you should probably learn organic chemistry and how to read scientific papers first because that’s where you will find different synthetic approaches
@@sammacer thanks so much for guiding and always there for us 💜
🎉 well expression excellent verbal. Thanks for sharing Boss 🎉🎉🎉🎉
Thanks dude
@@sammacer dear respected keep it up 👍 people who want to make others as winner are the real people of the Lord 💖 stay blessed Aameen
If we choose one musk for all kinds of design perfumes whats ur choice
Not quite sure I understand
I mean which one of musk is best for all times to use in perfumes design
I would say galaxolide is a pretty universal musk that can used in all types of perfumes.
I can't smell galaxolide, but I can smell applelide, ethylene brassylate. Am I agnostic?
A lot of people are anosmic to certain musks so it’s completely normal!
Nothing wrong with you. +1 for "agnostic." 😄
Hello Sam
Good afternoon
Nitromusks have nothing to do with all other types of musks, Musk Xylol and Musk Ketone, for me they smell like soft florals, while Musk Ambrette has a stronger smell that leaves an almost fishy smell on the skin, that's the that I smell.
I know about 20 types of Musks from Galaxolide, Ethylene Brassilate, Helvetolide, Velvione, Shangralide, Tonquitone, Habanolide, Muscone, Iso Muscone, Exaltone, Etaltenone, Traseolide, Aldron, Animalis, Globalone, Globalide, Apellelide, etc., etc. none of these products have anything to do with Nitro Musks.
That's why it's impossible that Perfumes like Chanel 5, Aramis and others manage to keep the same smell since Musk Xilol and Musk Ambrete were banned and if we add to that the natural Oakmoss that has nothing to do with the substitutes, these perfumes they are clumsy copies of the originals, which I remember well from the smell and are very different from current products, and much less durable in smell.
IFRA killed the great perfumes, without preventing the continued existence of products that are perhaps more dangerous than the "terrible" nitromusks.
Best regards.
Yep, the structure of nitro musks is very different from the rest, I can imagine they smell completely different too. I’m a big fan of prioritising safety in the industry but I know many people share your view!
Hey - where can I get some nitro musk? I'm representing a niche / fetish community that's trying to recreate a product fragrance that we're all obsessed with. How close is musk ketone to xylene musk?
@@erich1394
Hello
The difference between Musk Xylene and Musk Ketone is minimal, the difference is greater between these two nitromusks and Musk Ambrette, where there is a big difference.
I can't compare the smell of nitromusks with other types of musks, at least that I own.
I think that Musk Ketone and Musk Xýlene are more for the effect than the smell, I can hardly smell them on the scent strip.
Do you have any course in udemy or other platforms
No but I will make one in the future
@@sammacer please do, it's gonna be great one, cuz I'm unable to put all this channel data in one track... A course would be great, please do a very detailed and long course.. Thank you.
Hola Sam, soy un seguidor tuyo de España. Te agradecería que pusieras la opcion de subtitulos. Vaya por delante tu inestimable labor didáctica. Saludos
Thank you! You can use the auto translate option to translate the subtitles to Spanish :)
when hindus use cow dung to purifie their houses did you ever wonder what moecules involves that makes them so obsessed with cow dung?
Cow sh*t smells like cow sh*t.
It has a molecule called "Porko E Super" , you can try yourself..
And if you don't like this one, you can try "Incestolide" , it is highly used in Muslim countries for its high projection and fixative qualities
macrocytic musks..... WTF are you talking bout? PLEASE SPAIR US NON CHEMISTS WITH THIS NONSCENSE.... I LIKE THE HISTORY OF SCENT, BUT THIS RING THEORY OF CHEMISTRY IS TOTAL BLA BLA. I DO LIKE MOST OF YOUR KNOWLEDGE AND YOUR SIMPLE APPROACH. THANK YOU
It's not nonsense it's just the structure of the compound.
Since you're not into chemistry let me put it like this: the structure of any fragrance compound matters, it affects cost, scent profile and rate of diffusion.
Next time you might consider simply not watching this video. Watch one of the ones about citruses or something. Just a suggestion to make you happier in the future.