Why Audemars Piguet is changing its identity...
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- Опубликовано: 27 авг 2024
- Christian discusses the shift at Audemars Piguet, as demonstrated by their newest two releases, the Code 11.59 and Re[Master] 01.
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Today, Christian covers the shifting personalities and identity of Audemars Piguet!
Recently, AP released a new model (and, likely, a new model line) called the [Re]master01. This is wildly new for the brand, since we're most used to seeing them release exclusively Royal Oaks. Of course, this model does have some differences from the piece that inspired it. For starters, it's executed with a three tone configuration here instead of the original's two tones. It's also powered by, interestingly enough, a modified version of the same movement found in the CODE 11.59. This movement, of course, contributes to some massive proportion changes, including a new 40mm diameter, and a massive, 14+ mm thickness.
For that reason, the term "Remaster" might be a tiny bit overzealous, but it does open some interesting doors going forward. But now let's think about the Royal Oak, and how for a very long time, that was all AP had going for it. People loved the Millenary line, but it was never the brand's bread and butter. So they released the CODE 11.59, and now with this new model, you have two collections that sit beside the Royal Oak in the brand's upper echelon. We are, believe it or not, seeing the future of this brand.
The only 14-15mm thickness I'll accept at this price point is from a Datograph, where every mm is used for that gorgeous architecture at the back
I like the 1159. But then, I also own a Hublot Big Bang, so obviously my taste is questionable after all.
Tom Reiner your honesty more than compensates for your questionable horological penchants. More power to you Sir.
Lol!
Hervé Chretien Thank You! ☺️
You like things that make bold statements
Why do you own a hublot!
I like how everyone seems to forget about the Jules Audemars line, and the Millenary. I''ve never considered AP to be a one trick pony. I do believe they should reinvest in updating all their movements to in-house AP original movements (Similar to what Patek did). Also, expand and market the line outside of the royal oak.
I love the idea behind it. But the whole intent of a "remaster" piece with the sizes increased to that extent seems like a missed opportunity to me
I’d like to see them expand the options in the series. I like the reemergence of classically styled watches that remind you of pocket watch heritage. I think that the Code 11:59 is great too especially the chronograph. The lugs are incredible.
The Royal Oak being by far the most popular watch from AP doesn't make them a one trick pony. First, because the Royal Oak line includes so many very different watches in terms of materials and complications that it actally represents a wide range of watchmaking and could fill more than just one catalogue from some other brands. The Royal Oak is just so diverse. Second, because AP has always made very interesting, very complicated watches besides the Royal Oak. They just haven't been that popular. But I totally get your point and basically agree with you. AP is self-aware. They know about their reputation. So, they are well-off to expand into different lines to broaden their merit in the puplic eye.
Now if you think about it I think Rolex isn‘t all that different when it comes to their designs. All the popular watches are it the oyster case. All the way from datejusts and explorers to Submariners, GMTs and Daytonas. All they ever change is the size, bezel, dial and bracelet. It‘s the same story with the AP. I think people are being too harsh with AP. It is so incredibly hard to hit the spot on a design in the same way that AP has on the Royal Oak. It‘s the one EVERYONE wants. And they improved on it ever since.
I like the three tone colours
Just a few words..AP the king!
I'm an AP fan so I love anything they put out
AP>Patek
Seeing the path of AP, and their hits and misses makes one appreciate the brilliance of Patek Philippe. Keeping a brand fresh, relevant, and diversified has been their hallmark for decades. I do hope that AP gets its act together for the longevity of the brand. If your “one trick pony” is impossible to buy, then what do you have to offer?
I’m not a fan of the re-master but I get it. The Code 11:59 was fine for me. I’m one if the lucky few who has tried them on and they are surprisingly beautiful watches. It will be interesting to watch the next few years for AP.
I am one of the few who likes the 11.59. I think it will grow on people, but will take time. It will also evolve and smoothen. Everybody hated the Nautilus when it came out. I'm a member of the Vacheron Constantin church though.
It's definitely a breath of fresh air from AP. Bought one from the grey Market at the price of a panda Daytona, this remaster01 beats the Daytona hands down from a collectorbility perspective. If ap is committed to steer away from being over dependent on the tree, remaster series could be one option and we are witnessing the beginning
Respect my brother. Keep the amazing work up and you will reach the skys. All love!
Me personally, I am a classic type of watch man and even tho my wrists are about 8 inches I wear and truly enjoy various watches like the 25mm cartiers, 31mm pateks, 34-40mm Rolex watches.
Glorious time piece. Pinnacle of watchmaking. Sign me up! Can't wait to add to my collection of Casio and Seiko.
I am sorry to say but REMASTER AP if there is no "Audemars Piguet" name I don't recognise it as an expensive watch.
😂😂
I actually like the Remaster.
It looks very nice.
Best looking AP for years.
I don't like the Royal Oak, but then again i don't really like most sports and divers watches.
It's good watches but the design just doesn't do anything for me.
But the Remaster looks fantastic.
That is more my type of watch.
The price is fairly ridiculous however. As a limited ed though, there will be enough saps to partake.
@@fullymechanical9055 yeah the price is a bit high.
But i am sure that the details and work that has gone into it is worth it.
And as you mention it is a limited edition.
So that makes it quite unusal and a bit more special.
@austin rosin i agree on the 11:59. It looks a bit like a cheap fashion watch actually.
But i think that with a few adjustments it can get quite good.
What makes me laugh is that before 1972, people would have been unsurprised by 1159, or the 'remaster'. The AP from back then was far, far away from a one watch manufacturer
AP has the skill to make the remaster thinner than 14mm. But like Bentley's changes in the past 20 years (and most luxury good manufacturers), the demand for ostentatious design is far greater than slim, sleek, and what many would call elegant.
The Jules Audemars fulfills the understated, subtle watch in their collection. The Remastered can afford to be big and bold.
amazing looking watch auto movement yes 3 tone yes size diameter yes for a mans wrist def remastered and an improvement over the past to me
You think of Patek, yes the aquanaut and the nautilus come to mind. But they have so much more like the calatrava.
The problem with AP is that their brand is simply the Royal Oak. I think they are expressing desire to branch out from it.
To say the Nautilus and the Aquanaut are different but that the Royal Oak, Offshore and Concept are all the same ‘Royal Oak’ is not a fair or correct criticism.
I’m an AP owner and fan, the direction the brand is headed is exciting. They are forming new pillars for one of the few truly great houses in watchmaking.
I really enjoyed the video; content and editing are done to an awesome standard by all who are involved, as always. I think this is just the first to come for AP and this will serve as the watch for those who aren’t willing to wear the 34mm-38mm like some of us are.
Side note: thank you for pronouncing ‘homage’ the way you do and for being yourself and not attempting to “put on airs” with the Queen’s english.
One of the biggest criticisms of Hollywood is lack of imagination and playing it safe with sequels - Rocky I, II, III, IV, V etc. How do these watches escape this criticism?
I really prefer the two-tone, i dig the movement, hate that it is this diameter, i would have preferred a smaller watch. I love the lugs, and the dial arrangement
Love you vids especially with your Dad drinking wine and talking watches that's what me and my son did every week before the virus Theo Mosso and even Archie ! Keep them coming please hope you and your lovely family stay safe!
they should have done manual and slim as possible, they already have some thin manual calibers
I own a Seiko 5 and I gotta say I’m pretty excited
man, this was good. I really apreciate your view on this matter, and I never truelly realised what this means
Again bro awesome clip..this is how to approach discussing watches.good shots of watches and an in depth look at brands.i also agree with your perspective with both Tag and AP;the issue with AP i think is that large brands tend to have only a few models as highlights of their work merely because the public makes it so (i.e all rappers wear royal oaks or nautilus-thats all most ppl know)and when they see a model going in a different direction it turns them off.i agree the blue is too much i imagine rich folks can ask for custom golden hands?
I just tried on the remaster today at AP, its so nice and so comfortable. Cant afford it now 😂
This brand is about to loose me as an enthusiast. Boutique only and not having any product for loyal enthusiasts doesn’t sit well with me, especially during a recession. And attitude on top of it. The royal oak is iconic and their signature, but they can not even satisfy their loyal customer base even when they are patient. Not impressed. Watch the Overseas.....If I were AP, I would be worried
Absolutely love these kinds of vids, keep em coming!
I like the new remaster AP, fine with 40mm case but I think the 14.5mm case thickness throw off the entire watch proportion and feel. For that price, I will give it a miss.
Christian what do you think of AP model to go Boutique only. Will it pay off with the C19 situation or not. Hard to get your hands on these amazing watches if you don’t live in a big metro area.
AP Is actually a 2 trip pony , Royal Oak offshore is the other pony ,
Any AP purchase that involves anything other than the words 'Royal' and 'Oak' are for people that simply hate $$$.
Great video. I personally like the 3 tones for the remaster01. The original chronograph is featured in the incredible book “Audemars Piguet Complicated Wristwatches”. Let me know if you want me to send you that section🤙🏻.
Interesting POV...thanks!
The thickness problem is a sign of bad watchmakeing
This remaster is amazing. It feels more fresh to me compared to the original one.
Will there Royal Oak be around in the future?
Love the comments but it is premature until you actually see the watch. Pictures on websites don't do justice.
Good viewpoint Christian! Not a Royal Oak fan but I do admire the 1159 and the remaster. Time will tell, just needs to grow on everyone. Can see a struggle though from the die-hards. 🥃
Really enjoyed your take on this Christian. Like you I think AP is charting a way forward that look the goods. A few points people forget, AP isn't Rolex, they aren't trying to find homes for three quarters of a million watches a year. Some, many, most don't get their new stuff? Doesn't matter, 5000 people buy it and it's a massive success. The other issue is time spans. People look at watches through the lens of now plus a few years. The 1159 is now plus 20-30 years. In 2030, 2040 we'll really understand this company.
Here we are 2 years later and nope, AP still very much a RO factory
For me it’s simple. I’ll stick with Rolex all day. For the price of an AP or PP, I can get 2 Rolex. Also Rolex is more durable, lasts longer, and costs less to service.
just say I like rolex because it's cheaper and leave! don't ever compare rolex to AP and PP
Gigi Hadid Egypt truth hurts doesn’t it?
Prior to the Royal Oak, AP was famed for creating the world’s first minute-repeating wristwatch, the first skeleton watch and various other ultra-thin pieces. While all of the above milestones have recently been featured in the Royal Oak line in some form or another, it would be amazing to see ‘remasters’ of some of these historical pieces. They have more than enough of these examples to create an entire remaster collection. Looking forward to seeing what’s next...
TAG needs to go back to just Heuer and its roots and traditional models from 60s and before -80s, in house movements and better QC.
I honestly agree so much with this. It would be different if TAG was another watch company it joined with but it's a soulless holding company that doesn't even own it any more. They'd be better getting rid of the TAG that we have many bad memories of and returning to the cache they have simply with Heuer.
Smaller watch = smaller movement. Harder to build as a result. "Modern" sizes for mechanical and automatic watches are a cost-cutting exercise for the watch industry... And we fell for it.
AP has been paying the bills with one of the ugliest watches ever designed for decades now. Eventually that particular gambit is gonna go the way of the Edsel.
AP needs to get rid of rubber-clad completely
Dear Christian,
Thank you for this insightful video and your views about the future of our manufacture. We sincerely appreciate your efforts in spreading the word about our vision of the future with the watch collector community and hope to continue delivering timepieces that you will enjoy in many years to come.
Best regards,
Audemars Piguet
The intro looks very hodinkee-ish
Royal Oak > Remaster >> 1159. This remaster is beautiful but I cannot even begin to imagine the resell value for those watch....It is going you be low.
Why are there two whole ass pineapples in the background, who goes through two pineapples
He lives with his family
Why do you care so much about his fruit?
Dude likes pineapples. Move on.
What!!! Something that doesn’t look like a Royal Oak from AP
hahahahaha who knew!
I'd really like to see AP remaster watches of a similar period, namely the 25548/25657. With a modern redesign/interpretation, with a strong homage paid, it could help create a stunning collection!
Not sure why anyone would buy this when a Habring could be had for a fraction of the price.
I think that AP has a similar issue that JLC has. Heritage and history but only one design icon. Only one watch, that as you smartly put it, has cultural cache.
And I think it's something that Rolex built its success on. You can recognize a submariner or a datejust at a distance, just on the case alone. And I think this is the stumbling block for AP. If you want to make a new watch line that shares no similarities to your mainstay, how are people supposed to know it's you? They don't and they won't, which explains why the response has been so tepid.
Chris, you are a Beast man!!! Very good curating!!!! I think the AP Execs are watching this video. You’re in your lane man. Enjoy the ride bro.
Wait what? I thought this is Patek
Too late for AP....
Everybody knows that AP is out of the Holy Trinity.
We are just waiting for their right replacement for the Trinity. If JLC drops their entry level watches (Steel Watches) which I doubt, they can be considered as a good contender.
And nope, ALS is not going to be part of the trinity. Germany has their own league if not better maybe at par with the Swiss. Just waiting for 25-50 more years for NOMOS to break through from their segment and and move up.
Good god the Jules use to actually look good and wouldn't be a problem if you had to buy a Jules to get a sport model because you liked the look of the Jules these brands are losing there identity because of the sport model craziness.
If anyone at AP believes the 11.59 is the future of AP then AP are in deep trouble...
AP, strike 2....
0 of 2 on their latest releases (11.59 being the other miss)
This is the Christian I know. Much improved from than the tag video.
I like it better when you talk about brands as a whole. The tag video felt like a promotional video. I doubt that was your intent. This one much better
I am in love with the remaster.
I really like this watch - in concept, design and mechanical engineering. It's a really nice addition to the line that gives AP both more breadth and depth in its offering. What does it mean for the brand? This model, along with the Code 11.59 line, allows AP to identify beyond the Royal Oak and compete with (and potentially out-compete) Patek in terms of movement. To really be top of the tree in terms of movement, it'd have to out-compete JLC, but that's another story. In terms of the "Holy Trinity" watch brands, AP is ramping up its game. It has asked questions of Patek Philippe, and PP now needs to respond. Out of the traditional three top watchmakers, the brand that's getting left behind is no longer AP - it's Vacheron; VC is the brand that needs to up its game. I look forward to seeing how both PP and VC respond to AP's challenge.
Edit: And no sooner had I commented when... Vacheron Constantin ups its game - big time. These 2020 Novelties are fantastic! It shows VC as (what we already knew) an expert cross the board. There are some amazing watches here. They don't seem to go as far as AP goes in trying to recapture its brand identity because VC didn't need to. What we see in this range is a reinforcement - not recapturing - of what Vacheron Constantin has done well in the past and continues to excel in. Bravo, mon brave! ruclips.net/video/-U0tc5Jb5Rk/видео.html
I've said before...and say it again, the 11:59 is a copy of the Mont Blanc Timewalker line...Thanks for the PCF of AP!!
Sure, this timepiece is too thick and the tricolor idea is a mess compared to the delicate and beautiful original model. But let us give credit to AP for releasing a watch which is neither of questionable design nor the 2000th recycling of a 1970’s design.
I must be honest, I don't get spending 40 thousand dollars on a watch, after all it just tells time. What does it say about the owner, I am rich enough to spend this kind of money, or stupid enough not to know better. For that kind of money it better do house cleaning, and change the oil in my car. It shows one has taste, how about the guy with the 50 thousand dollar watch, does he have ten thousand dollars more taste. There are things in life which fall under absurd this is one of them, just a guy's opinion. Love the passion on the videos, I'll keep watching.
If you have the money. Why not? It's not waste of money if it holds its value. Buying a car for 40k is way more stupid if you think about it.
@@tenettttt I think you're awfully optimistic that this will hold value.
This is the first AP I've seen I'd actually buy with my own money. Gorgeous. 14mm for a chronograph isn't unreasonable at all, you just dislike its size because you've got skinny little girl wrists and can't wear it. Name a 44mm-or-larger watch that you really like and don't think needs to be smaller (in width or thickness) despite the fact that you could never wear it. I'll wait.
Love your Tank Cartier
I love the remaster. And I believe is the first step of an entire new line of AP. Imagine the remaster with a perpetual calendar... Greetings from Argentina
Come on Christian, this is a lovely lovely watch. Be positive for once, please. The problem here is the price. 50k plus is just stupid.
No matter how many tricks this pony does they will only be known for their Royal Oak. The problem with AP is they have relied too long on the one design and now the model has a cult following. Collectors aren't interested in AP as a brand. The brand is the Royal Oak.This is also becoming the problem with Tudor and the Black Bay. It's a pony that does a lot of tricks, but still the same pony. AP is in a sticky situation. They should not deviate from the steel sports genre. Perhaps they should create another parallel sports line like Patek has done with the Aquanaut and the Nautilus. To try to enter into the market with a chronograph dress watch is competing too closely to Patek and the clear winner is Patek. The smart collector consumer will want to stay with the fundamentals of the brand. That's why the Rolex Cellini is not a strong seller. For the same reason why Rolex collectors prefer oyster case sports watches, AP collectors will stick with the Royal Oak.
Great subject choice Christian, something different and of genuine interest. Can you imagine how the watch would be received if they had kept the dimensions of the original (or maybe pushed it out to 38mm) instead of a 14mm monster. Now that would have been a watch to lust after. Pity, an opportunity missed I think.
AP is so boring. Like Christian said they practically only make one watch. The Royal Oak is over rated and it cracks me up that people actually have the nerve to complain about Omega’s Speedmaster Special Edition lineup.
It's not just over-rated. It's hideous beyond belief.
AP has introduced many different lines before code 11.59 such as the jules audemars and edward piguet. I am guessing there is a high chance those lines are not that successful and that is why AP is desperately trying to introduce something new that can possibly change consumers' perspective that they are not a one trick pony. A brand cannot survive long if their main source of revenue is from just one design. AP should have followed what Patek Philippe had done in the past when the Nautilus came in the market. Patek Philippe still focuses a lot on their classic calatrava designs and perpetual calendar models instead of riding the wave of stainless steel sports trend. They refuse to let the money making Nautilus or Aquanaut lines take over their brand essence. AP on the other hand began relying heavily on the success of Royal Oak and that is when people forgot about the rare and beautiful chronographs they made, the classic 3 hand models or the funky designs that made them really popular back then. Even though many watch enthusiasts are not feeling the new code 11.59 line or this remaster edition, I think it is still commendable of AP to step out of comfort zone to offer something that could potentially be a success. The watch enthusiasts sometimes think too highly of themselves when they probably make up less than 10% of the whole watch industry sales (still trying to find a good deal on jomashop). Majority of the watch buyers are not enthusiasts and if they like what they see, they buy. Code 11.59 is one of them and I am sure this remaster edition will sell out.
@@adiands850 I understand where you come from! In my hubble opinion, I think the RO design only gained traction after the 2000s, when RO first came out, it was a disaster. AP was still surviving on other classic models. They were lucky to survived the quartz crisis because RO didn't help at all. AP has gained tremendous following only this decade. Imagine Rolex only has the Submariner design or Omega only has speedmaster designs, its very difficult to survive long term. There is a reason AP is trying to come out with more designs other than RO to capitalize on their brand power. If just RO and ROO are enough then why spend money pushing new designs. Rolex has Cellini line for a reason also.
Hey AP, why did you insist on that hideous date window with the 11.59? See what you did with the remaster? No date! Perfectly fine!
Aesthetically, this Remastered AP is a joke. Why do you pretend not to see that?
That intro is a direct rip of Hodinkee.... LOL
sadly, AP is Royal Oak
Jesus. 14mm thick in a dress watch? Congrats AP on Code 12:01.
You are very cool when wearing ladies watches . 🔥
Combines the worst of old and new; dated champagne dial as opposed to the pink gold, cumbersome modern case. Another swing and miss for AP
I think this one is a big mistake for AP. They should put their efforts into modernizing the Royal Oak and moving that style into a thinner, smoother and softer design. Coming up with a "new" retro grandpa watch will be disastrous.
Vacheron Constantin Historiques Cornes De Vache is a far more successful reimagination of a classic. This feels a bit of a hash job copy
AP should just rename itself “Royal Oak LLC” and relinquish its Holy Trinity seat to A. Lange & Söhne.
They’re changing their identity because more SOUNDCLOUD RAPPERS are purchasing these pieces 🤣💀😂
Embarrassing that someone who sells watches for a living can't pronounce the names