Like the others, I enjoyed this video. I own the same model snow thrower. Mine is one and a half years old, and I can buy gasoline from an FS Station that has 100% gasoline (no ethanol), but the station is 40 miles away, so I did it once and no longer make the effort :-) Stabilizer seems to make my Hondas (generator, mower, and thrower) idle rougher. Less steady, so I stopped that, too. My best solution that has worked for me for the 18 months that I've owned the snow thrower: start it once a month and let it run for 15-20 minutes ( even have it in my phone reminders). I turn the throwing blades for a couple minutes (hold the handle), fully rotate the chute, pretty much exercise all cables and moving parts. Not only does it keep the gasoline flowing, but it reassures me that the thing still runs. LOL Thanks again, panofish, as I get a sense everyone, sooner or later, has that issue as you, just the same. Wayne in Chicago.
There's an access port on the left side that allows you to drain the bowl for longterm storage. If you run the machine dry and then drain the bowl, you're far less likely to encounter these issues.
I have the same Honda HS720 snowblower and also had the same issue - hard to start plus rough running in year 2. As it turned out, it was the old bad gas I used. Yes, I added stablizer in the fuel but it didn't help. Lessons learned: do not use any left over fuel as they don't cost much (I only buy 1 to 2 litres at a time). Run off all the fuel remain in the snowblower at the end of winter.
All true, but if you want to take one step further. Only buy recreational gas (if you can find a gas station nearby that sells it). Significantly less corrosive and gumming properties for these small engine carbs.
@@panofish It's hard to find recreational gas from where I live. I always use Shell V-power 91 (no ethanol) anyway for my vehicles and this snowblower.
I also bought a Honda 720 this winter. The dealer emphasized that I should use the premium grade gasoline as all others contain ethanol in our area. The snowblower came with premium and always started on the first pull. When I refilled it with some older gas that I had (regular octane) it would take 5-8 pulls to start. I drained it and went to some new premium fuel and right away it went back to starting first pull. It's a great little snow blower, just likes the premium gas!
+MIke Lee Just did some quick research... it appears that only 2 states are likely to have premium gas without ethanol (Missouri and Montana)... otherwise there is no guarantee that premium doesn't contain ethanol and likely does.
+panofish Sorry. I didn't mention. I'm from Ontario, Canada. The retailer I buy gasoline from lists on the pumps what grades have ethanol in them. All grades contained ethanol except the most expensive premium.
+MIke Lee Wow, you Canadians are so lucky. I wish my gas stations did that. After this experience, I would definitely pay premium rates to avoid ethanol for my small engine equipment.
I'm not sure what to make of that. Higher octane gas is not "better" gas, it just has a higher flashpoint. If anything, going to premium would require a higher compression (or hotter spark) to ignite. Is it possible that the regular gas you bought was somehow inferior? My honda single-stage requires "86 or higher".
Hi guys - just bought my HS720AA - good end of season deal. I have always used Stabil in my small engine gas tanks (outboards(2and4stroke), 1989 Honda lawnmower, Deere garden tractor) when putting them into storage coupled with either running the carbs dry or draining them. I make sure that the treated gas makes a final journey thru the carbs before emptying the carbs. Have always used Shell regular ethanol fuel - no more than 10%, Plan to do the same with the 720; Honda has a convenient drain screw and tube on the carb - nice touch. On engines where the input fuel line is easy to get at, I will inject a final dose of pure Stabil directly into the carb to make its way to the bowl. Overkill - yes; but never had a problem.
Your video was very helpful when I replaced my carb/gaskets today. I was able to get the bottom shroud completely out of the way, however I have the commercial model that does not have the directional shute lever like you have. It’s in the way for you
I use Shell V-Power and have avoided problems with my small carbureted engines. It's the only ethanol free gas that's available in Canada from what I've seen. Fixed neighbour's lawnmower by simply draining his e-10 fuel and adding V-power in instead.
Brand new HS720 purchased at end of last season. I started it up and ran it but didn’t get another snow so I never used it. Stored for the summer. Just fired it up and it was hard starting!! It take 2-3 minutes of intermittent cranking on the electric starter. Yes I gave the starter a break after 10 seconds of cranking so don’t bust my balls 😂😂😂. It finally started but it runs with what I call a “fast hunting” so I pulled out the choke and it ran smooth. Pushes back the choke and right back to fast hunting. Any ideas or advice from this group of Honda Snowblower owners??? Thanks in advance.
Definitely you need to clean your carb. Also, in the future, use recreation gas without ethanol (this greatly reduces the chance for gunking up). Super common. You description fits. No doubt that you need to clean the carb ... the jets inside it are partially blocked with gunk.
@@panofish thank you Pano. I am trying to avoid removing the dreaded Honda shroud. Wonder if I can access the fuel bowl and work the welder tips to remove any deposits.
@@Fresh-tw7ev I don't think there is a way to avoid removal of the shroud. However, your best shot is to empty the gas in the tank... get some rec gas and start the engine with that gas ... then get it running with that gas... it will likely break the gunk ... maybe overnight after a short run trying to get some of the new ethanol free gas into the carb and let is sit ... then keep running it off and on until it starts to run smooth. I've done this in the past to avoid having to clean the carb.
+Kenny Weimann Just a couple of capfulls of Blitz Gem & Jewelry Cleaner Concentrate in water... which is basically a concentrated soup... worked fine to breakup the stuff in the carb. Could probably have used something more agressive, but didn't need to. I made sure to rinse the carb thoroughly in the sink and then dry it with a compressor air hose and then waited overnight to be sure there would be no water in the carb before reassembly.
I took the red shroud off of my HS720 to do a repair. I can't figure out how to put the little fuel cap apron back on top after putting the shroud back on. How did you do that?
@@panofish I didn't know it could be removed...it makes sense that it can be slipped off and put back on after the cover is in place. Thanks for your quick and helpful reply.
Amen on that shroud design, it is annoying to work on because of that. I was also thinking it would be a good idea to cut a slit below the chute rod to allow easy removal of the shroud.
I suspect if you had a Honda shop manual it has a step by step sequence which makes it much easier to get the carb off. I have a Honda HS622 track I bought new back in 1996. It still runs and looks like new. That's 23 years old. Maintenance is the key to taking care of anything. I did have the dive wheel seals replaced last year as they had started weeping. It's Honda road again. ;-)
Just checked.. they do sell the shop manual for my model. I may get it eventually. This problem hasn't recurred in a long while. I also just discovered a gas station in my area that sells recreational gas (no ethanol in it). I think making sure I've added stabil to my fuel has helped prevent the problem.
Does anyone have a close up photo on how the carburetor goes back together? Im looking for where each gasket goes. I looked at schematic but just want to confirm. I think I have it together correctly. Please show close up. Does it go big gasket, plastic spacer, and then small gasket up against the motor? Thanks in advance.
I just changed the oil on my HS720AS and it has been slowly leaking/dripping oil ever since from somewhere underneath...not from the oil drain though. Any ideas? Could I have over-filled it?
@Michael Maier awesome advice. Yes looks like there is a fill cap and a drain on the front side as well. Gonna give this a shot today to see if both are tight.
@Michael Maier buddy this was the exact problem. The opposite side oil fill cap had wiggled loose and oil was leaking everywhere. You saved me a trip to the shop!
Yes. I've done it for years with all of my equipment. I believe the change in formulation of gas has made it more necessary to empty the fuel OR at least make sure you have added some fuel additive.
I leave gas in it every season, but only because it is recreational fuel (without ethanol) with stabil. No issues at all. Ethanol fuel however.... seriously bad idea to leave it too long. Thanks!
Great video, I also bought the same snowblower. I too noticed how tough it is to turn the chute and saw you had a great fix. Could you maybe do a more detailed video on how to take that apart and exactly what parts you used the silicon on? Would be much appreciated!
+logdon17 Honestly.. it is intuitive. Just take off the 4 outer bolts and then the bolts holding the chute in place. Once you take off the chute ... you simply grease the contact point between the chute and the housing... its all black plastic. Don't worry, it will make perfect sense once you start removing the screws and bolts.
How about using some simple WD-40 with the included straw insert and just give a few squirts to loosen the shoot direction handle. Instead of taking it all apart...Just a thought for those of us who aren't "mechanically inclined".
I would like to recommend a healthy dose of Seafoam when purchasing the new gas and draining the blower every Spring. After I drain, I take the bowl off my Toro and spray carb cleaner up the main jet that you pulled out of yours. I've had great results doing it that way. I liked the Hondas till I saw what you had to put up with to get to the carb. Seems like a nice machine when it's running right.
You are 101% correct. All ya gotta do is drain the carb bowl, then run a good mix of SeaFoam & Stabilizer (or Techron) in it. Close the gas valve and let machine run itself out of gas. Drain the bowl and your good. I’ve shot a little carb cleaner up that drain bolt hole before too. Can’t hurt. Gas is sucks these days. I’ve switched all my “rare use” 2-strokes over to the expensive store premix stuff. It’s cheaper in time & money than repairs. Shelf life of 1.5 years on brand I get.
I don't think we have that ethanol in our gas here in Japan. That design really was bad, shame on Honda, they usually do much better than that. I too put Gas Stabli in the gas I use in my generator and my chainsaws, I do drain the carbs after use, but I find it is still a good idea to put the stabilizer in the gas. Domo
Maybe you can suggest a solution to a problem I have with the HONDA SNOW BLOWER 'Fuel Valve knob'.. It will not TURN to ON.....I don't want to break it... any suggestions?
Just pulled mine out of the shed for the winter and the fuel valve was stiff and I almost tried to force it the wrong direction... pay close attention to the arrow. Mine did turn and it seems strong. Hope yours doesn't break.
@@panofish I sprayed it with Liquid Wrench.. still stiff but it turns.. started right up with fresh gas and a little stabilizer added. TY for your reply!
Great video. I use Star Tron Enzyme Fuel Treatment on all my power equipment products. It stabilizes the fuel for long storage and ad’s lubricant for the fuel system. Best product on the market. I highly recommend. You have an outstanding snow blower. Honda’s are the best and everyone compares themselves to them. Keep it clean and well cared for and it will give you many years of trouble-free service.
Use rust check oil every year & you will never have any issues. Always use premium ethanol free gas from Esso or Shell and you will never have carburetor issues
I have no access to e-free gas at pumps here so I send the extra money for TruFuel or VP small engine fuel. Costs about $6 per liter at Home Depot but I don’t have any carb clogging or service bills, so,it’s worth it for small engines. Imho.
I was excited about your suggestion until I saw the price at my local home depot. Yikes... way too much for me... I've found that adding stabil fuel additive to my gas from the gas station appears to have done the trick :)
@@panofish If you are adding Stabil to E-10 it will not do the trick. Been there done that and paid the service bills for carb cleaning. At best, you can expect 60 days of stability, adequate for occasional use during a single season but definitely not sufficient to avoid fuel problems between annual seasons. As for price, if you're a pro doing 10+ driveways every snowfall you're using enough fuel to circulate the stale gas, but if you're a homeowner IMHO its worth $5 more each snowfall to avoid service issues. I recommend you completely drain your stabilized E-10 at end of season and run the machine with a can of TruFuel before you put it away. Also a good idea to drain the carb bowl at season-end.
Sorry about that. Sometimes, it is difficult to focus on the task and record video. But, taking the carb off was not difficult , once you deal with that stupid shroud.
In Canada shell and Esso sell ethanol free premium gas. Also 99% of Canadian tire gas bars buy their gas from imperial oil which is Esso. Stay away from petro Canada, husky, Pioneer & the no names. They have 10% ethanol in their premium gas.
If possible, I recommend using Ethanol free fuel along with a stabilizer. The next best thing to ethanol free fuel is using a higher octane fuel along with a fuel stabilizer. This is because higher octane fuel takes longer to degrade.
WOW !!!!!!!!!!!!! looks like Honda pain to take apart just to get to CARB !!!!!!!!!!!! now all plastic HDPE #2 junk i have a 2004 and 2008 Craftsman easy to work on than this night mare contraption
@@fixtritephil7712 LOL … I was confused for a moment. Most important thing is to use recreation gas if you can find it in your area. 110% it solves all problems. Good luck.
Not just honda...alll these little SB have these annoying plastic guards that you pretty much have to disassemble the machine to get off. Bad starter gear in a sears one I garbage picked...had to take the whole thing apart to get to the starter...then they dont sell a starter gear, gotta replace the whole starter unit, crazy
You clearly didnt store it properly. Fill it full of gas 91+ turn it on and turn off the fuel valve let it run till it turns itself off and thats how you store it and wont ever have an issue. I run all hondas and never had that issue of not starting.
Sorry. It was definitely modern gas. I now use recreational fuel which has no ethanol and no longer have this problem. Trust me, ethanol additives are very corrosive and will inevitably create problems with gumming the carbs. Octane level makes no difference.
Like the others, I enjoyed this video. I own the same model snow thrower. Mine is one and a half years old, and I can buy gasoline from an FS Station that has 100% gasoline (no ethanol), but the station is 40 miles away, so I did it once and no longer make the effort :-) Stabilizer seems to make my Hondas (generator, mower, and thrower) idle rougher. Less steady, so I stopped that, too. My best solution that has worked for me for the 18 months that I've owned the snow thrower: start it once a month and let it run for 15-20 minutes ( even have it in my phone reminders). I turn the throwing blades for a couple minutes (hold the handle), fully rotate the chute, pretty much exercise all cables and moving parts. Not only does it keep the gasoline flowing, but it reassures me that the thing still runs. LOL Thanks again, panofish, as I get a sense everyone, sooner or later, has that issue as you, just the same. Wayne in Chicago.
There's an access port on the left side that allows you to drain the bowl for longterm storage. If you run the machine dry and then drain the bowl, you're far less likely to encounter these issues.
I have the same Honda HS720 snowblower and also had the same issue - hard to start plus rough running in year 2. As it turned out, it was the old bad gas I used. Yes, I added stablizer in the fuel but it didn't help. Lessons learned: do not use any left over fuel as they don't cost much (I only buy 1 to 2 litres at a time). Run off all the fuel remain in the snowblower at the end of winter.
All true, but if you want to take one step further. Only buy recreational gas (if you can find a gas station nearby that sells it). Significantly less corrosive and gumming properties for these small engine carbs.
@@panofish It's hard to find recreational gas from where I live. I always use Shell V-power 91 (no ethanol) anyway for my vehicles and this snowblower.
I also bought a Honda 720 this winter. The dealer emphasized that I should use the premium grade gasoline as all others contain ethanol in our area. The snowblower came with premium and always started on the first pull. When I refilled it with some older gas that I had (regular octane) it would take 5-8 pulls to start. I drained it and went to some new premium fuel and right away it went back to starting first pull. It's a great little snow blower, just likes the premium gas!
+MIke Lee Oh... do you think that means that all premium is without ethanol?
+MIke Lee Just did some quick research... it appears that only 2 states are likely to have premium gas without ethanol (Missouri and Montana)... otherwise there is no guarantee that premium doesn't contain ethanol and likely does.
+panofish Sorry. I didn't mention. I'm from Ontario, Canada. The retailer I buy gasoline from lists on the pumps what grades have ethanol in them. All grades contained ethanol except the most expensive premium.
+MIke Lee Wow, you Canadians are so lucky. I wish my gas stations did that. After this experience, I would definitely pay premium rates to avoid ethanol for my small engine equipment.
I'm not sure what to make of that. Higher octane gas is not "better" gas, it just has a higher flashpoint. If anything, going to premium would require a higher compression (or hotter spark) to ignite. Is it possible that the regular gas you bought was somehow inferior? My honda single-stage requires "86 or higher".
Hi guys - just bought my HS720AA - good end of season deal. I have always used Stabil in my small engine gas tanks (outboards(2and4stroke), 1989 Honda lawnmower, Deere garden tractor) when putting them into storage coupled with either running the carbs dry or draining them. I make sure that the treated gas makes a final journey thru the carbs before emptying the carbs. Have always used Shell regular ethanol fuel - no more than 10%, Plan to do the same with the 720; Honda has a convenient drain screw and tube on the carb - nice touch. On engines where the input fuel line is easy to get at, I will inject a final dose of pure Stabil directly into the carb to make its way to the bowl. Overkill - yes; but never had a problem.
Wise advice :)
Your video was very helpful when I replaced my carb/gaskets today. I was able to get the bottom shroud completely out of the way, however I have the commercial model that does not have the directional shute lever like you have. It’s in the way for you
I have low idle with my new carb is there an adjustment?
@@timcavazos I'm not sure. The one I purchased I just bolted it on and it fired up right away. I didn't assess idle speed
I use Shell V-Power and have avoided problems with my small carbureted engines. It's the only ethanol free gas that's available in Canada from what I've seen. Fixed neighbour's lawnmower by simply draining his e-10 fuel and adding V-power in instead.
Canadian Tire premium fuel is also ethenol free .
Use good/fresh fuel and keep your shit clean when not in use. This isn't exactly new stuff with ethanol blended fuels.
Brand new HS720 purchased at end of last season. I started it up and ran it but didn’t get another snow so I never used it. Stored for the summer. Just fired it up and it was hard starting!! It take 2-3 minutes of intermittent cranking on the electric starter. Yes I gave the starter a break after 10 seconds of cranking so don’t bust my balls 😂😂😂. It finally started but it runs with what I call a “fast hunting” so I pulled out the choke and it ran smooth. Pushes back the choke and right back to fast hunting. Any ideas or advice from this group of Honda Snowblower owners??? Thanks in advance.
Definitely you need to clean your carb. Also, in the future, use recreation gas without ethanol (this greatly reduces the chance for gunking up). Super common. You description fits. No doubt that you need to clean the carb ... the jets inside it are partially blocked with gunk.
@@panofish thank you Pano. I am trying to avoid removing the dreaded Honda shroud. Wonder if I can access the fuel bowl and work the welder tips to remove any deposits.
@@Fresh-tw7ev I don't think there is a way to avoid removal of the shroud. However, your best shot is to empty the gas in the tank... get some rec gas and start the engine with that gas ... then get it running with that gas... it will likely break the gunk ... maybe overnight after a short run trying to get some of the new ethanol free gas into the carb and let is sit ... then keep running it off and on until it starts to run smooth. I've done this in the past to avoid having to clean the carb.
What solution did you use in your ultrasonic cleaner? Water?
+Kenny Weimann Just a couple of capfulls of Blitz Gem & Jewelry Cleaner Concentrate in water... which is basically a concentrated soup... worked fine to breakup the stuff in the carb. Could probably have used something more agressive, but didn't need to. I made sure to rinse the carb thoroughly in the sink and then dry it with a compressor air hose and then waited overnight to be sure there would be no water in the carb before reassembly.
I took the red shroud off of my HS720 to do a repair. I can't figure out how to put the little fuel cap apron back on top after putting the shroud back on. How did you do that?
Is that the rubber apron... if so... it just slips back on.
@@panofish I didn't know it could be removed...it makes sense that it can be slipped off and put back on after the cover is in place. Thanks for your quick and helpful reply.
Amen on that shroud design, it is annoying to work on because of that. I was also thinking it would be a good idea to cut a slit below the chute rod to allow easy removal of the shroud.
I suspect if you had a Honda shop manual it has a step by step sequence which makes it much easier to get the carb off. I have a Honda HS622 track I bought new back in 1996. It still runs and looks like new. That's 23 years old. Maintenance is the key to taking care of anything. I did have the dive wheel seals replaced last year as they had started weeping. It's Honda road again. ;-)
Just checked.. they do sell the shop manual for my model. I may get it eventually. This problem hasn't recurred in a long while. I also just discovered a gas station in my area that sells recreational gas (no ethanol in it). I think making sure I've added stabil to my fuel has helped prevent the problem.
Does anyone have a close up photo on how the carburetor goes back together? Im looking for where each gasket goes. I looked at schematic but just want to confirm. I think I have it together correctly. Please show close up. Does it go big gasket, plastic spacer, and then small gasket up against the motor? Thanks in advance.
I just changed the oil on my HS720AS and it has been slowly leaking/dripping oil ever since from somewhere underneath...not from the oil drain though. Any ideas? Could I have over-filled it?
@Michael Maier awesome advice. Yes looks like there is a fill cap and a drain on the front side as well. Gonna give this a shot today to see if both are tight.
@Michael Maier buddy this was the exact problem. The opposite side oil fill cap had wiggled loose and oil was leaking everywhere. You saved me a trip to the shop!
so did you leave the gas in it from last year and that was the reason the carb was clogged ?
Yes. I've done it for years with all of my equipment. I believe the change in formulation of gas has made it more necessary to empty the fuel OR at least make sure you have added some fuel additive.
panofish
Use stabil in your gasoline to prevent the clogged and to drain the gas every season when done
I'm sure u figured it out by now use only ethanol free gas in a small machine like that and ur problem is solved
Good video and don't leave gas sit in it all year.
I leave gas in it every season, but only because it is recreational fuel (without ethanol) with stabil. No issues at all. Ethanol fuel however.... seriously bad idea to leave it too long. Thanks!
@@panofish I agree 100% I too had that happen just 1 time, lesson learned. Great video.
You didnt show how you took the carb out at all? It just suddenly came out at around 2:46. Why did you not show this ?
Sorry about that... but if you get to the same point ... it's pretty obvious which screws need to be removed.
Great video, I also bought the same snowblower. I too noticed how tough it is to turn the chute and saw you had a great fix. Could you maybe do a more detailed video on how to take that apart and exactly what parts you used the silicon on? Would be much appreciated!
+logdon17 Honestly.. it is intuitive. Just take off the 4 outer bolts and then the bolts holding the chute in place. Once you take off the chute ... you simply grease the contact point between the chute and the housing... its all black plastic. Don't worry, it will make perfect sense once you start removing the screws and bolts.
How about using some simple WD-40 with the included straw insert and just give a few squirts to loosen the shoot direction handle. Instead of taking it all apart...Just a thought for those of us who aren't "mechanically inclined".
tomtalker2000 if ur gonna go that route, prolly best to use a silicone spray instead. WD40 isnt anything great
It's definitely worth it for the first attempt.
Wd 40 is a water disperser. Grease is a lubricant.
I would like to recommend a healthy dose of Seafoam when purchasing the new gas and draining the blower every Spring. After I drain, I take the bowl off my Toro and spray carb cleaner up the main jet that you pulled out of yours. I've had great results doing it that way.
I liked the Hondas till I saw what you had to put up with to get to the carb. Seems like a nice machine when it's running right.
You are 101% correct. All ya gotta do is drain the carb bowl, then run a good mix of SeaFoam & Stabilizer (or Techron) in it. Close the gas valve and let machine run itself out of gas. Drain the bowl and your good. I’ve shot a little carb cleaner up that drain bolt hole before too. Can’t hurt. Gas is sucks these days. I’ve switched all my “rare use” 2-strokes over to the expensive store premix stuff. It’s cheaper in time & money than repairs. Shelf life of 1.5 years on brand I get.
I don't think we have that ethanol in our gas here in Japan. That design really was bad, shame on Honda, they usually do much better than that. I too put Gas Stabli in the gas I use in my generator and my chainsaws, I do drain the carbs after use, but I find it is still a good idea to put the stabilizer in the gas.
Domo
Maybe you can suggest a solution to a problem I have with the HONDA SNOW BLOWER 'Fuel Valve knob'.. It will not TURN to ON.....I don't want to break it... any suggestions?
Just pulled mine out of the shed for the winter and the fuel valve was stiff and I almost tried to force it the wrong direction... pay close attention to the arrow. Mine did turn and it seems strong. Hope yours doesn't break.
@@panofish I sprayed it with Liquid Wrench.. still stiff but it turns.. started right up with fresh gas and a little stabilizer added. TY for your reply!
Great video. I use Star Tron Enzyme Fuel Treatment on all my power equipment products. It stabilizes the fuel for long storage and ad’s lubricant for the fuel system. Best product on the market. I highly recommend. You have an outstanding snow blower. Honda’s are the best and everyone compares themselves to them. Keep it clean and well cared for and it will give you many years of trouble-free service.
Use rust check oil every year & you will never have any issues. Always use premium ethanol free gas from Esso or Shell and you will never have carburetor issues
I have no access to e-free gas at pumps here so I send the extra money for TruFuel or VP small engine fuel. Costs about $6 per liter at Home Depot but I don’t have any carb clogging or service bills, so,it’s worth it for small engines. Imho.
PS I have no affiliation with those companies
I was excited about your suggestion until I saw the price at my local home depot. Yikes... way too much for me... I've found that adding stabil fuel additive to my gas from the gas station appears to have done the trick :)
@@panofish If you are adding Stabil to E-10 it will not do the trick. Been there done that and paid the service bills for carb cleaning. At best, you can expect 60 days of stability, adequate for occasional use during a single season but definitely not sufficient to avoid fuel problems between annual seasons. As for price, if you're a pro doing 10+ driveways every snowfall you're using enough fuel to circulate the stale gas, but if you're a homeowner IMHO its worth $5 more each snowfall to avoid service issues. I recommend you completely drain your stabilized E-10 at end of season and run the machine with a can of TruFuel before you put it away. Also a good idea to drain the carb bowl at season-end.
I love Honda lawnmower but them dam carburetors are a pain in your pinky toe but once you put a good carburetor on it it runs like a dream!
The easy fix is to avoid modern gasoline and get recreational gas which doesn't have all the corrosive additives.
Thanks for showing everything except how to get the carb off
Sorry about that. Sometimes, it is difficult to focus on the task and record video. But, taking the carb off was not difficult , once you deal with that stupid shroud.
In Canada shell and Esso sell ethanol free premium gas.
Also 99% of Canadian tire gas bars buy their gas from imperial oil which is Esso.
Stay away from petro Canada, husky, Pioneer & the no names. They have 10% ethanol in their premium gas.
If possible, I recommend using Ethanol free fuel along with a stabilizer. The next best thing to ethanol free fuel is using a higher octane fuel along with a fuel stabilizer. This is because higher octane fuel takes longer to degrade.
you didn't show the most difficult part, how to remove the carburetor
Sorry. Not really difficult... just a few screws... except it was difficult to shoot because of the shroud being in the way.
After seeing this, I'll buy the cheaper model with the manual chute control and without electric start.
WOW !!!!!!!!!!!!!
looks like Honda pain to take apart just to get to CARB !!!!!!!!!!!!
now all plastic HDPE #2 junk
i have a 2004 and 2008 Craftsman easy to work on than this night mare contraption
Running with choke partly on shows that it did NOT work!
Comment for another Vid ,sorry....
@@fixtritephil7712 LOL … I was confused for a moment. Most important thing is to use recreation gas if you can find it in your area. 110% it solves all problems. Good luck.
Not just honda...alll these little SB have these annoying plastic guards that you pretty much have to disassemble the machine to get off. Bad starter gear in a sears one I garbage picked...had to take the whole thing apart to get to the starter...then they dont sell a starter gear, gotta replace the whole starter unit, crazy
I agree with you , Honda design is horrible and always have carburetor issue
The truth is, using bad (old) gas does the same (to carburetor) for any brand. My friend has a Toro snowblower and the same thing happened to his.
Really helpful...
And really nice of you to say :)
great tip...
You clearly didnt store it properly. Fill it full of gas 91+ turn it on and turn off the fuel valve let it run till it turns itself off and thats how you store it and wont ever have an issue. I run all hondas and never had that issue of not starting.
Sorry. It was definitely modern gas. I now use recreational fuel which has no ethanol and no longer have this problem. Trust me, ethanol additives are very corrosive and will inevitably create problems with gumming the carbs. Octane level makes no difference.
Im not buying a honda just for the fact its a hassle to clean the carb. Ill stick with the tried and true TORO