Snow Blower How to Fix After It Sits And Won't Start
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- Опубликовано: 21 янв 2017
- In this video you'll see how to fix a snow blower that won't start after sitting for a while, but you'll also learn how their carburetors work and how to diagnose and clean them.
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Can't thank you enough. Your video gave me the confidence to take apart the motor and got my machine running again. Just in time for another storm. My aching back thanks you!
Thank you Brian, you saved me a lot of aggravation and time, the video is spot on, clear, direct and well explained. Pat yourself on the back.
Woke up to ~10" of snow this morning. Snow blower wouldn't start so grabbed the shovel. Watched your video. Removed and cleaned the carb. Back in business. Thank you!!!
After looking through hours (literally) of video's I finally came across this one. This is the exact same carburetor as my Troybilt 2410 snowblower. Thanks Briansmobile1!!! This worked like a charm and my snowblower started right up after following your steps.
Thank you so much for this video! I went to start my snowblower yesterday, and although the gas only sat in it for the winter, it was also a couple years old. Took apart the carb, cleaned it and it runs perfect!! I also now know what a carb does and how it works! I will make sure to drain it this time!! Thanks again!!
Great video. You have a talent for clear and precise presentation. I have a business "Mobile Mower Man" where I go to peoples homes to fix there machines. I miss the good old Tecumseh engines where you could get to the carb and linkage by removing 2 to 4 screws/bolts. Your explanation of how to get the carb off of the Powermore engines on these snowblowers is helpful to me. The fact that you leave the switch wire and primer line in place saves times. I also like your tip on replacing the belt cover. Small but great tips! Thanks
I will echo most everyone on here. People like you help keep the faith in RUclips. Thank you so much!
Great video.i have the same motor on mine.. couldn't figure how to get at the carb..now I know.
This is one of the best videos I've watched on how a carburetor works and how to clean it. Thanks for taking the time
Thanks for the video! Just cleaned and rebuilt my first carb! Started up on the first crank!
Briansmobile 1, great video! Helped me diagnose my Sno-Tek 24 Snow Blower. My issue was engine would not start. It sat over summer with no gas in tank. I ran the engine out of gas last winter. I decided to try and start it up to get ready for the winter and it failed to start. So I tore apart the carb and cleaned it well with carb cleaner as you stated in your video. I put carb back on and still nothing. I confirmed I had spark on spark plug. This is the very important part which DIY mechanics need to pay attention to. I focused on the needle (Jet) that goes up in the carb tube since it has several small holes and made sure they were open. I FAILED to check the bottom (Jet slotted nut) or part that holds the needle up in the carb tube. It has a small hole that allows gas up the needle and it was PLUGGED. So I cleaned it well, made sure I could see daylight through the very small hole then put the needle and Jet nut back in carb tube. Put Carb back together and it fired up! Thanks again for your great video which saved me ~$60 in labor cost.
I just had no idea, Brian, that you work on snowblowers as well as autos. Your vidios help me repair my 2005 Silverado club cab truck that I bought used. Runs wonderful now! Thanks much Brian. More that thumbs up!!!
Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video! You saved the day!❄️
Welcome!
Followed this video today and got a Craftsman Snowblower that sat for 2 years, running again. Thank you for the awesome video !
Another great video. Here in the part of Australia I live in we call that jet above the main jet that you pulled out an "emulsion tube". Thanks Brian.
Excellent explanation. You make it so easy to understand. Thank you. You are the man.
Very good video, a must see for people who haven’t done this before. Greetings from 🇨🇦
Best video on this yet you go thru all the the troublesome parts
hey Brian, thanks for the videos. this one help me with my lawn mower
Saved me a trip to the shop. Thanks for this!👌🏾💯
Love your video! I have both a troybuilt with this engine n carb setup and another Craftsman with a tecumseh engine.. Great video period and thanks again super appreciated. Ps I usually put a 1/4 of a tank of sea-foam alone with No gas in the tank after the gas runs out and run that through before I store my gas powered machines. Yes the engine will run on sea-foam just need to basically find the best choked and throttle settings and let it run OUTSIDE as it will be smoky. Than storm em.. I forget to do that 3 yrs ago and thats why this video is awesome.
Best video yet.. Thank you for posting..
great video man, just got done doing this for someone not too long ago.
Good video.
I don't have a blower but have worked on a couple.
I do however put StaBil in my lawn mowers at the end of the season and it does help. Thanks.
Thanks for the video. Followed it and was able to get snow blower running again. The main jet wouldn't come out, but just used a lot of carb cleaner. Runs like new now. Same exact engine as the one in this video. Moral of the story, use fuel stabilizer!
Shiz nits. My words for the week. Thanks Brian. My method for dealing with small engine (lawnmower, weedwhacker, snowblower etc.) off season storage is to use LL100 (avaition gas) as the last (ish)( tank for operation. . Don't have to drain any carbs. Never varnishes, and no ETOH. At least that is what I have found for one, and in some cases several year storage. LL100 is a bit pricey so that is why I use it only at the end of a season. I purchase LL100 at my local (small) air field. Also, thanks for the small engine carb tutorial.
That's a great idea- especially for newer machines.
good point!
I've done this but completely forgotten this idea after living in an apartment complex for over 6 yrs.. thanks for the remind.
Awesome video thanks for the help got my snow blower going 🇺🇸🤘🇺🇸
Thank you so much! Got mine going now.
Great video, not a lot of wasted commentary. What he does say is concise and informative.
From one Brian to another, Thanks!
Thanks a lot! Same carb you have here and that internal jet was plugged.
I wish I could understand everything you were teaching, but you a funny as heck. I definitely Learned my carborator is the issue with my snow blower
This is the video I was looking for...You sir, are the shiznit!!!!! Thank you
I just had to pull the carb on mine a month ago, the exact same setup and I cursed the engineer every step of the way. It should not be that hard to access a carb. Nice tutorial as well. I've found with this it's easier and only a few dollars more to just replace the whole carb.
Great tutorial. That old gas is so much trouble.
I wish you did that video two year ago when my MTD gold started to run very bad. I put fuel stabilizer in my fuel right when I buy it. The carburetor was completely gummed up after summer storage :-(. I have now installed a cutoff valve with a longer fuel line and run the engine until it dies to be sure that no fuel remains in the carburetor. I think it a good way to prevent the problem.
Hey Brian, Love your videos. Any tricks on how to get a spring back on to a belt tensioner for a drive belt?
Very well explained. Finally got my snow blower working! Thank you
Cool Video...One thing I noticed was the RED-DOT on the ratcheting box wrench.. huh, why didn't I think of that.. my wrenches don't have a mark on them.. but they will now..
Well done!!!
Wow it started after cleaning the carburetor, thanks!
don't forget the idle jet that is held in by the plastic idle speed screw. its not an issue unless you clean the carb and it still doesn't want to run properly and surges on you. 😀 great video. There are not a lot of how to videos for that particular motor yet as they are pretty new. A lot of people will find it helpful.
Thanks for that Pat! You're comments getting a heart!
Looking for that idle speed jet now to clean it. She starts but won't stay Running
This young lady showed me the cause of my continued surging in her video. Cleaned it and it runs great.
ruclips.net/video/p95hl96oIXY/видео.html&ab_channel=DIYMarta
Also the fuel filter is in the supply line from the tank. It is tiny and easy to clog.
I just subscribed thanks again Great tutorial
i get it and it work so thank u too mach for help
First, thanks for this great video. I removed the carb per your video, couple of months ago, now I can't put it back on! The green gasket side seems to be missing a mating piece. Would you please explain what goes on that green gasket side. There's a thick gasket that goes on the other end that attaches to the engine. Thanks man.
I've gotten pretty good at working on small engines. I've found to always keep some extra gaskets for them Honda and chonda (Chinese Honda clone) carb gaskets. I've found they're always finicky.
Great video but don't forget to remove the low-speed jet as well. The low-speed jet is under the black idle plastic screw. Remove the idle screw and the jet easily pops up. Before removing the idle screw, count the turns as you run the screw all the way in, that way when you take it out you can easily return the screw to its original setting.
I have heard that carb cleaner is bad for plastic parts including rubber parts. what are your thoughts on that?
I live in the Netherlands and there you can buy gasoline specialy made for lawnmowers, leafblowers and other 2 or 4 takt small engines. It is called "Aspen" it is twice the price of regular gasoline, but it stays good for a couple of years. Ideal for this kind of tools that are sitting without running for months
I love it! We have "clear 88" it has zero ethanol in it. You'd have to add your own fuel stabilizer. Husqvarna 2-stroke oil comes with fuel stabilizer in it for this reason. It's not sweet Netherlands Aspen fuel, but it's what we got. Thanks for exposing me to something new. I didn't know that. Great idea!
briansmobile1
We get no e 90 here in Michigan, great for boats and all lawn equipment, I only use it in the last tank of the year because it is double the price!
Nice video i will do mine now same engine starts but cuts out in run only wants to go in choke left gas in all summer i know Dummy but ty for the know how
My snow blowers sits thru the summer months, which here in SD can be from 4 to 5 months, Sta-Bil has never let me down
Hello Brian thank you.
I have a 20 year old Toro power throw.
About the same size of your snowblower.
I clean carburetor without taking it off. Cleaned bowl filthy it was and put all back starts then dies after one minute.
Any suggestions
I just fixed one the same and it was a royal pain getting to the carb . I didn't have to remove the carb , luckily it wasn't gelled up too bad and i did get it running. Oh man i see so much problems with the fuel and nobody want to pay a bit more for high test or run them dry after the season. Cheers !!
I really thought you were going to say it was a royal pain in the carb, lol. In America it's very hard to get ethanol free. I'm lucky that 1 of the last 3 places I've lived had ethanol free gasoline. It's only in 91 aki octane, but there's a website documenting every last one of them for us Americans. I know up there in Canada, from what I'm told, that premium Shell is always ethanol free, yes?
DE Nichols The only fuel with ethanol is 89 octane up here all the rest is non . No e85 or other stuff yet as far as i've seen.
STEVE ROB I either heard really wrong or it was another province. I wonder if less ethanol is there because the cold makes it worse?
Or it's an old government document I found that said it'd help lower costs and that there were no issues. ..not true, but it was published.
Ever hear of iron cage of reality? Government can make new legislation and get stuck with it. Easier to do than undo.
I've never come accross a BP or Marathon station that didn't have ethanol free fuel for midgrade and higher. In the city I live in we have 12 gas stations and only 2 of them don't have ethanol free fuel. Unless you like throwing your money away, you shouldn't be using 87 octane in small engines.
My issue with the Powermore engine was after running it dry. Still gummed up. Maybe due to mild couple of winters. Still, it's painful to open up the carb even after following all instructions.
Brian, I have the Ariens 824 that sat for years in shed. Won't start, with carburetor ruled out after winterizing, can I show you my machine and maybe you can determine the likely cause of it not starting?
Well I got it running but couldn't remove the main jet..lots of carb cleaner did this trick. Cant wait for a snowstorm
Good job.
great video.
good info and what not!
Hey! It's DonnyBoy!!!
Thanks
How do you clean the floater and washers? And how to you remove and clean the black seal to the carburetor? Thanks.
tossed you a sub and a like my guy.
Could not get my Ariens AFI 30 to go no matter how many pulls. Worked fine two months ago as a test. How you fixed it? At the :16 mark. Never knew what the plug in part was for. Plugged it in, then less than a second later, it fired up. Let it run till it was warmed up to my satisfaction, shut it off. Pull started? First pull, fired right up. Thanks! :)
I have the same carb on my snow blower. Did the cleaning process still won't start up. It will start up with starting fluid. I wonder if this sort of carb has some internals that can't be cleaned.
If the Carb is fine with the winterizing I did, should the next part likely be the fuel jet piece? The skinny Brass piece that has really small shower holes in the skinny cyclinder?
Nice video. What is the make and model of the unit you are working on?
The engine is a Powermore Chinese engine used a lot by MTD made machines which could be Craftsman, Toro, Cub cadet is also using that engine and some Huskvarna as well.
I followed this process and boom my machine is back on the snow again. Thanks. Only thing is when I put the 2 nuts back on the long studs to hold the carburetor, they seem to needing a spacer of some sort otherwise the nuts will screw for ever and deform the casing. The engine still starts perfectly and I did a lot of snow throwing last week, with the deformed casing. I don't recall the spacers when I removed the carb. Would you tell me what is there behind the casing. My machine and very much like yours in the video. Thanks.
There are metal spacers that tend to fall out.
At 4:50 point, the brass pipe/pin with holes comes out. When cleaned, which side goes back in first? The thinner end or the thicker end? I assume the thinner end goes in first and the thicker end button up to that nozzle with screwdriver head. Is this correct?
Right thinking
You missed the jet on top under the black plastic screw.
how much would they charge to clean a clogged carb?
Hey Brian, how do you dispose of old bad gas? There is about 5 gallons of it at my house and i was wondering what I should do with it.
Dump it on neighbors yard
I was going to ask that too.
jordanallen22 burnit
Dump it on weeds or fire starter
We bought a whole new carb for our edger because my dad tried messing with something a piece flew off and got lost. It wouldn't even sputter at all anymore. needless to say he let me do the rest of the work myself lol.
Good for you for being there and being willing!
One thing to consider older eyes are generally weaker eyes and you need vision correction sometimes to see what you are doing at the necessary working distance. That's both to see those fine details and also where those buggering bits have flown off to. So maybe be a bit tolerant of old dad there. And it's good you volunteered to help complete the project.
He can see fine, he's just a stubborn goof who won't listen to me but hey like father like son lol.
Brian do you recommend using a product like Stabil and leaving the gas or emptying everything? Also, do you like your ratchet wrenches and what brand do you have?
I have a video called, "Help! Gasoline storage answers." I provided a guess in the video about Stabil wondering if it'd work. I'm told the green works better than the red, but I was honestly told more by my subscribers than I can remember so be sure to read the comments. In there lies a lot of answers and more questions that'll be produced of course too.
I've found that there is nothing worse than three year old gas treated with stabil. It's like gummy cubed. I don't think it's rated for multiple year intervals. In other words, never for more than a single season was it made in the first place. Empty bowl and gas tank is the very best way to go.
Stabil is ONLY designed for a max of 2 years. Also, You can;t just add Sta-bil to the tank and call it a day. You NEED to drain the carb, and shutoff the fuel. If you don't have a fuel shutoff, get one, they are only a few bucks and install in seconds. Even with sta-bil mixed fuel the carb still have a lot of nooks and crannys where the fuel not only can, but will gum up. I work on small engines and over half of what I get are people not storing their equipment properly.
DaTwistedOne1 Maximum of two years is encouraging for my project car that I've had to stop on for a while.
i cleaned the carb of a machine not long ago, but i started it and it doesn't idle well. it's extra loud i think when it's on idle and it goes even higher on the sound. any thoughts?
Clean the idle circuit of the carburetor. Inspect the exhaust for obstructions (squirrel nuts etc.) and leaks.
@@briansmobile1 oh thanks I’ll look into tht
The fact that’d I’d have to do all this from a brand new blower that’s been used 2 times
Did you miss the idle jet?
I think he did!
The best thing is to run Fuel Stabilizer. Then you won't ever have any problems.
Do you have a good one to recommend?
DE Nichols I think it's called Stabil. They sell it at all the Hardware stores and Lawn & Garden equipment stores.
1970chevelle396 When I recommended Stabil on my channel I was told that the red version didn't help, that the green or ethanol version was better, but that there were better products. I have a car sitting with a full tank of gas.
A bit overfull really. Most of a Stabil treatment fit.
I read some comments on my channel. 1 recommended Fitch fuel catalyzers, but when I read up on that, the reaction needed to be hotter, not a cold gas tank
Stabil 360 or their marine applications worked well for another.
Sta-bil wouldn't of saved this situation, at most made it marginally better. Sta-bil only works for around roughly 2 years, I say roughly because I've seen fuel with sta-bil added that was crap in under a year. This sat for 3 years, I can pretty much guarantee you he still would of had to drain everything, and the carb would be very close to varnished over if not to the same state you see in the video. The vast majority of people think adding sta-bil is a cure all, but you STILL need to drain the carb, otherwise you're wasting your money.
Fighting removal of choke knob (who'd a thunk! easy right just pull (or pry)off? Need to de-winterize an undrained carb. cub cadet snowblower model 31AM5CVS756, (675-WUB 243cc,?) Engine,......What's next thin wheel? smoke wrench?
Did you get it off I’m having trouble with mine and I don’t wanna break it
no elec start just recoil. ugh and more snow coming
Brian so You didn't get a snow in UT for 3 years and all of the sudden a snow shows up?
When you were cleaning a carburetor actually you thought about flying over to Hawaii on your big umbrella with the engine on it? Lol
Geez, if it didn't snow here for 3 years I'd have to move somewhere that did! The owner of it lives overseas most of the time or in Florida.
briansmobile1 You are like me then. I think that some people call me crazy because I like snow more than summer. LOL
PS. I new I would get a respond on this one.
As I remember I think in 2000 there was a Olympic Winter Games by you.
I searched google maps for "cedar valley utah", and all I got was a grey screen.
Fort Knox just to get to the carb.
That's why action movies are so great, it's just like watching Brian repair a carburetor!
lol
Where's the gold?
I don't think I've ever seen a snow blower
so draining the fuel won't save it either. it dries to a very sticky residue all over the insides... there is no way that I havefound to save it from getting messed up when you need to leave it set many years
My experience too. I have two snow blowers. Gas them up in late fall and they both run great. First big snow and neither will start. So, find me out in the garage, where it is colder than an angry wife's stare, rebuilding carbs.
How. Come carb cleaner is all worthless now?? Don't even touch the crud..
EPA....
If I just buy and electric corded snow blower. I don't have to fight with these caveman fuel driven machines. And I'll save thousands each year by not replacing the parts.
So I'm just going to sell my BRAND NEW ONLY USED FOR 1 YEAR SNOWBLOWER. and save myself the yearly headache of spending 1-5 hours figuring out the issues by moving to full electric🤷
Yeah, well it’s freezing cold outside and there’s no way to take apart anything. Why can’t these things just work from year to year? Why do we have to clean the damn thing out mine is only two years old for god sake’s?! 🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬