Hardtail Vise Build Ep.10: Milling the Bolt-On Jaw Face
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- We'll finish the milling ops in the Kearny & Trecker milling machine as we mill the bolt on jaw face for the Hardtail vise dynamic jaw body. #abom79 #machineshop #manualmachining #hardtailvise
Paypal Channel Donation: www.paypal.com...
Support though Patreon: / abom79
My Amazon store where I'm adding many of the tools and products I use in my own shop. Amazon.com/shop/abom79
Visit my second RUclips channel where you can follow our travels, camping, RVing, cooking, and bbq!
Always like looking at that photo of you, your Dad and Grandad.
Said that to myself many times 😐😐😐
Thanks for showing your steps and also the little mistakes! You're right, we all do it. Loving the project.
When you announced that you were going to go ahead and machine that cast face I spoke out loud to the Monitor "Yes, Thank You!" Then felt a little foolish but that was the right thing to do aesthetically for the vice but me trying to talk to Adam directly on the screen is a bit of a Senior Moment. It's my 82 birthday Friday and my sister is taking me to a birthday lunch that I wouldn't want to miss as you never quite know if you are going to have another one next year so I am leaving Stick-Notes everywhere to remind me and Stick-Notes to remember to look at the other Stick-Notes. Even way back when I was more spry in the memory department I noted down the dimensions with a Sharpie near the machine if not on it because the stronger I felt that I was remembering the correct number it seemed the greater the chance was I was wrong.
Just the other day I needed to tap a 1/4-20 hole 🕳 and wondered why my tap fell trough the hole I just drilled, I used the "F" clearance drill instead of the #7 tap drill. Now that's a BOZO move if I ever heard of one. I needed the clearance drill alright but in the other half of the part.
BOZO showed no mercy!
happy birthday and im happy you still no where the machine is.
I just seem to be leading BOZO around by the hand showing him my secrets so he can catch me off guard.@@davidhall1779
Happy Birthday, just keep doing what you are doing for as long as you can. May you have many more birthdays too
This series so far has been your best so far. I hope you get another rough part to show all the ways you can machine something. I'm not a machinist but i enjoy watching your videos. Could always learn something or maybe a different way to approach things.
Nice that you are doing this job in the old shop it's much more realistic
I am not a machinist. Never been one and never will be one. I don't even know one. But I really appreciate watching expert craftsmen in any field do their thing. So when I found this channel I binged it a bit. Now I try to keep up. Adam is great and for a guy like me, his explanations of what he does and why are informative and entertaining at the same time. I also like seeing some of that old American iron still doing what it was made to do.
I really appreciate hearing thoughts from non machinists and what they enjoy about the videos. Thank you. 👍🏻
I am with you I don't know any machinists I have never known a machinist,, but I like watching these types of channels one of the first ones I came across was "cutting edge engineering"
I do mistakes like that all the time. I would fix by milling bottom of both jaws in the same process the exact amount. Right on Adam appreciate you.
Your camera does a great job filming, I love watching the chips fly in slow speed. This is a great series. Good Job Adam. Later
Thank god im not the only one that mixs up numbers like that. I let out a sigh of relief when i saw that
Really love the old shop action.
I can practically smell the cutting oil in the air.
Those rolled up tube chips are the BEST! The Forbidden Taki's.
Drill the mounting holes to print on this jaw, and don't worry about it dude. Other option is to drill the holes to print, then deck 0.030" off the bottom surface of this jaw and both surfaces of the static jaw too and make custom jaw inserts to match that. it would mean that the jaw insert mounting holes would be 0.030" offset from their print, but would make them a universal fit for either side...
Or just leave it and use the vice with some grace as you do with your other tools and just don't worry about it and keep stock parts compatibility.
I would love to see it done exactly right, but it's just not worth it in this case.
Sometimes you just gotta know when enough is enough.
In my opinion you can never fail to attract viewers with a shaper video. So yes, bring on the shaper! KOKO!
If that gap really bugs you, could you take the 0.003 off the lower face? It’d drop the jaw a little, but maybe that’d be worth it to get rid of the gap? That finish is beautiful!!
That's what I was thinking there
I'd rather keep the jaws at the same height and that tiny gap would not bother me.
it was 0.030. if your not familiar with imperial that's around .75mm, which is a lot. He'd have to rework the other opposite jaw location to get them the right heights.
We all know that you can correct that little error you made, if it needs it. Not a biggie. Great video
😊
I love the old shop man, it looks so cozy it makes you feel like home even though it's through a video screen.
Great series!! Will be great to see the shaper make those cuts! :-)
As someone else mentioned below, it's actually probably a good idea to have clearance on that top edge. Otherwise if the jaw insert is not perfect, you could wind up with all your weight on just that top lip, which would be bad. It's better to force using the bottom edge.
TBF, it would probably be better to hang the jaws off the top edge bud as there is more material there to support it. In fact I believe you could do away with the lower lip entirely and have the jaw inserts as a sacrificial piece that would break before the vice does therefore acting as a sort of mechanical fuse.
@@johnsjunkyard The jaw casting is designed to withstand the supported pounding load. Putting all that force on that tiny ledge of an insert made of potentially various metals defeats the purpose of designing a heavy duty casting.
I’ve been taking my time watching this series and really enjoying it. Keep it up, love seeing these smaller projects progress and multiple machines being utilized. 👍🏻👍🏻
A fantastic casting such as these deserves the care that you lavish on them. Beautiful workmanship Adam.
Looks great, thanks for sharing. That cuts like butter.
The jaw ledge should have a radius to prevent cracking from the shock loads it will be subjected to.
The rippa cutter has a small corner radius which would have left a neat internal radius & the vertical face finish would be better for mating faces.
Traditionally don't leave sharp internal corners & chamfer external mating external corners ( the jaw ) to clear the radius. The bottom face of the jaw location will be subject to shock loads so the stress will certainly benefit from not having a sharp corner where cracks start. The lip on the top which is now redundant is there to take some of these shock loads to protect the vulnerable casting face at the bottom of the jaw from cracking. So the lip needs to sit on the top by removing material from the bottom of the jaw. Otherwise you will have the worst situation where all the force is on the casting face & a sharp corner there ready to crack. Cast Iron is a brittle material & prone to cracking compared to other more ductile steels.
I was just thinking ‘How often do those chips stick to the flutes of that 2” end mill’, and BAM! It went to slow motion. :D
Spray weld that cast iron back up and mill it again right. We all LOVE the spray welder in action👍👍
Thank You for the time and effort You spend on these videos Adam. Best Wishes to You and Your Family for the Holiday Season.
Same to you!
Really enjoying this series!
I would cut 30 off the lower ledge, so the standard jaws fit if they ever need to be replaced. It's just a vice, tolerances are whatever.
If he does that, he should also go back and do it to the stationary jaw.
Im loving these project so far. The showcase of machines and techniques is amazing.
Super finish! Thanks for sharing!
I mean, you could always cut down the lower ledge and drop the measurements down on the other jaw and mounting holes to compensate for the error.
Really like the old K &T mill 👍
I finally got me a K&T 2HL horizontal mill have a little work & clean up on it before I can use it.
Thanks for the video Adam!
The project looks amazing, Adam. I look forward to seeing more.
If you can't cut deeper - for the excess cut - to seat on both plains , what about shimming the gap ?
Thanks again ;)
I've really been enjoying these vice-videos. It shows that you're enjoying your time making things just right. Beautiful work, as always!
Man been there quite a few times in my career with having the wrong dimension in your head and running with it. The best of us do it from time to time, hard to be perfect all the time. Just 99% of the time lol.
My father was a professional Carpenter and he always said that the difference between a professional and an amature was a pro knew how to cover up his mistakes.
Adam I like all the videos....mistakes or not....Merry Christmas
I guess Adam slowed the camera down to the ‘awesome mode’. That was pretty impressive. Thanks
I dont know why when i was in the trade, Side milling is my absolute favorite machining operation, just something about the chips coming off the side of the cutter.
Adam it just goes to show we are all human with our frailities
12:32 the finishing end mill, sure worked well. Great video!
As someone else has said take the bit off the bottom of the jaw to make it sit correctly on the two faces of the body, then make the fixed jaw the same. Two wrongs make a right.
22:40 it's amazing to watch those chips stick to the flutes and go around for another spin.
That slowmo at 24:30 is awesome. Great video
a simple fix for the gap is to make some jaws. i like that step Jason put in, there is more casting up there to not crack off. 👍
Love the home shop
Nice installment, thanks
Spray weld the lip and re-machine it. Or cut the bottom surface down to make the jaw sit in there, then machine the other side to match. Or put a shim in there. Or Machine the jaw to fit that side, then level both jaws off once assembled. All Four options would be interesting to see in a video.
Allays love the end shot of the three generations. I'm positive the last two are proud beyond belief.
The K&T looks like it's watching you.... LOL @6:25
Great video,Adam.Thank you.
17:40 wasn't it Jason's point that the vertical load would rest on the top step of the jaw, rather than on the bottom step of the casting, to prevent breakage of the casting (as seem sometimes with regular rectangular crosssection jaws)?
Beautiful cuts, cast iron is really pretty but oh man is it messy lol. But nicely done! Also, I don't think mistake is actually a mistake per se. You could shim it with brass stock and that would actually allow for a bit of shock resistance. Which might make the vise last even longer. Just a thought.
That little space up there looks actually useful, If it was a bit higher than it should it would make the jaw hang of it, being a bit shorter makes the jaw supported by the bottom part.
Put some shim stock to tighten up the top cut of the jaw insert.
I wish Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to and your family. Greetings from Germany
Same to you!
Nice work
Sure did leave a nice finish.
Just mill off a bit on the bottom as well, and the jaw will sit perfetc. It's just a vice...
Or a "vise"...and not something that is immoral or wicked behavior...
@@buckhorncortez sorry, misspelled a bit, not my language ;) However, by doing that (and doing the same on the fixed jaw) he (Adam) could show how to recover from a little bummer without sacrificing anything regarding the final result.
Yes, I would take a little bit more off the bottom ledge and do the same thing on the other jaw.
@@TorgeirFredriksen No no, the spelling is correct. It’s ‘vice’ in proper English.
Well there goes my ability to sleep tonight.... That gap is going to keep me stirring.
I don't know if anybody had mentioned this, but when you're running end mills in particular the trickery of 60 frames or 30 frames a minute on video, makes it look like that the End Mill is running in reverse unless you slow it down and then you see the correct direction.
A minute!? How about per second.
Yeah I meant to say per second
You could just recut the bottom step and then carry that over to the vice body.
You could put some shims under the lip of the jaw to get back that little bit of extra support
Just take 30 off of the Jaw, and remember to do the same on the other jaw. You are doing this machining, make it your own. Yes, it's "not to spec" and you have "manufacturing prints", but make it a one off-one of a kind-hand made, piece of work. You have the liberty to take what it should be and what it could be. Again, make it your own! If this was for a customer, I would do my best to fix it. But, this is for you! Change the other side to match and it will still work great and as intended! Love your work and your videos, all of them, the cooking and traveling, they've all been great! Thank you.
Lay a shim under the jaw or machine the jaw to fit. Great vid.
I'm agree with you about shim in the jaw
This series is really teaching me tons about how you go about making a hardtail vise!
Vise, not vice.
Mill the jaw a hir to bring it down some. Easy peasy.
Looking good 👍🏻
Perfect timing. Came to see if the next episode was out and BAM 41mins ago! TY for the video! :D If for some reason I end up hating it, I will come edit my comment and say so. But lets be real, I wont hate it. lol
Easy mistake... easy fix. Put a slice of .030 shim in when you mount the jaw to share the load.
Saved me a comment. Use brass for a nice fit.
Great project & nice job ! Best to channel.. good video
Good stuff
well done.
Good job. Thank you 😊
He could just mill the difference of the mistake off the bottom of the jaw insert. After all, he's likely to make other inserts for it anyway.
That was my idea, even if its hardened doesnt he have a surface grinder?
You're awesome!
Thank you again for sharing ALL of your journeys and in the last video some were saying use this or that machine. I am a good student and pay attention. You said you were going to use ALL of your machines on this video. I say use them all!
Merry Christmas!
Stay awesome!
Shim it, shim it now!
Should be an easy operation. Put a shim in there and loctite it in place.
I would machine the jaw to match and alter the hole positions
I see a couple ideas about the small "mistake" just to add my 2 cents in. If you still want the jaw to be resting on both surfaces you could always machine a shim to put in that space. I am a machinist and I learn a lot from you and love watching you work. Thanks for the awesome content!!!!!
I'd just cut the lower surface another .030 down and then match up the fixed jaw side. I don't think that would compromise the strength and it'd all match up.
Then he would have two dimensions that don't meet spec forever. Removing more material is always the last resort, since it can't be undone. If he wants to do anything, a shim would be fine.
I use cigarette rolling papers for getting close. They are much thinner than regular printer paper, about .0005" range.
Beautiful work Adam ;) be proud of yourself ;) mistakes happen to everyone ;) its good this mistake is not critical for a job ;)
nice video!
I would leave the "shelf" under the jaw in its raw cast iron look. That area is similar to the table face on an anvil. It is a sacrificial face. Many times you rest material when working or pounding vertically and it gives you extra support. If you face it off to a machined finish any small nick will make it look awful. I think just running a radius across the transition between the face cut tail and that table area to reduce stress risers would be all that would be necessary. My .02 $
25:44 never seen a caliper used like that
He did this comparing to a depth mic in the last video.
Me: "Wait, what? 🧐 That's handy."
I just watched the Fireball vid where he torture tested several vices. This one is indestructible!!!
I would criticise the error, except I have just made two left-handed parts and I needed one of each !
❤ Yes I have made some mistakes that were very costly when I was a Tool and Die Maker. I have worked on a die section for over a week only to find out that I made a mistake on the very first day I started it.
So I looked at it this way. You have to count it as 3 times.
1- the time you worked on that part the 1st time.
2- the time you had to remake the section part.
3- the time you could have been doing something else.
I made a gurglelizer outta the first part if you have ever made dies, molds, jigs, or fixtures you probably know what a gurglelizer is.❤❤
Enjoyed the show and that is going to be a beautiful vice just wish you had another generation to pass it on to.
Love it thanks man
Adam,
We all make mistakes true, it would bug the crap out of me if I left that 30 thou mistake there....my OCD would have compelled me to fix it by just dropping down that 30 thou amount on the fixed jaw step and carrying over the new base dimension to the moveable jaw side. Just saying......Great video !!!
You would have to offset the mounting holes by 30 thou upwards from that lower surface on the movable jaw carrier too so that when you make the custom jaws that this would need you can still mount them universally in either jaw carrier. Seems like a lot of work for something that is designed to handle the abuse of idiots and harsh trades, something which Adam doesn't have to worry about as he uses his tools correctly.
the jaws drop down that same 30 thou....and since both sides would be equal in height....the jaws swap universally....Adam is a fantastic machinist...never said or implied he wasnt.....he has more machining knowledge he's forgotten than many will ever learn...@@johnsjunkyard
@@donteeple6124 If you drill the holes to the print dimensions as it is now, then deck the surfaces to match they will end up being 30 thou higher than the print in relation to the bottom surface and the stock jaw inserts won't fit either jaw. You would require custom jaws to be made that need an offset of 0.030" to catch the mounting holes.
No one said you were rubbishing him or his work bud, we're just discussing options here. Personally I'd leave it and maintain stock parts compatibility as Adam doesn't abuse his tools so this extra strength safety feature isn't necessary in his case.
Gotta love carbide !!
Merry Christmas Adam & family!!
I also think a glued in shim for the 30 thou oopsie!
G'day Adam. Reading a couple of reviews, some are stating you should have used the CNC etc .. etc
What they don't realise is your showing how Mr. Average can do it on a std. Mill, & Shaper etc, which takes a bit of skill to get it to the tolerance that is required.
Overall an Excellent Tutorial Video, well done
Yes, you're absolutely right. Adam is doing this for fun and to use many different machines and tools. It's obviously he never intended to show how you would set this job up for production runs.
18:09 Showing your mistakes show amateur people that mistakes can happen to everyone and instead of being frustrated by those mistakes you can just learn from them and move on.
Just mill the bottom face!
That wasn't a mistake, that was an inadvertent design improvement. I think it's actually good to have some clearance on that top face. Unless the jaw and the mounting surfaces are both machined to tenth tolerances, there will always be some mismatch, so the jaw is going to rest on either the top or the bottom. You made sure that it will always be supported on the larger bottom face.
Then the production print should have it labelled as a critical dimension, to a few tenth tolerance.
@@peter-xn8xu That would make it an expensive vise, indeed.
The larger bottom face has no support underneath it. This is why the design has a lip to help support the jaw.
@@marley589 Top narrow ledge with more support, or lower wider ledge with lesser support, or indeed the jaw itself ; who's to say which gives first without some destructive testing ( which often gives surprising results). Maybe he's already done some.
@@danmenes3143 In production machining, all this will be done on the CNC mill, both small top lip and larger bottom lip machined in one operation, probably using a roughing and finishing cutter for both. So where's the hefty add on expense? is the CNC not capable of holding a half thou spacing?. I suppose the jaw step dimension would also need to hold the same tolerance, for it all to work.
Machine 2 or so thou off the bottom of the actual jaw insert to give a closer fitting
I agree. He would have to make the same adjustments on the fixed jaw so the would match, but that shouldn't be hard to do.
just take that little bit more of the bottom then the jaw will sit on both flats an then just match that few tho. lower on the base that little bit then its perfect jaws sit on both flats like intended then its one off the abom touch 👍👍
Exactly. Can't believe that he hasn't done that right away, I'm screaming over here :)
He'd have to go back and recut the fixed side jaw as well or else they wouldn't line up.
@@ADBBuildThat's a small price to pay to avoid this gap, IMO.
Then you have to cut the static jaw to match, I agree with your fix
I think a bit of shim stock would fill the gap?
Or maybe taking the same "few thousandths" off so the lower portion matches the upper portion?
Love youre Videos Adam youre are a great Man. I always a bit shocked that you never perfectly clean youre Work Peace before measurement its so necessary every Dust and Metal Span will fake the measurement. Very nice Viddeo anyway love it keep up Adam
Cut the shelf lower to match the upper shelf, then cut the static jaw to match